Personal narrative of a voyage to Japan, Kamtschatka, Siberia, Tartary, and various parts of coast of China : in H.M.S. Barracouta

Front matter

victoria R9S"

COLLECTION OF VICTORIAN BOOKS AT BRIGHAM YOUNG i

UNIVERSITY |1

Preface

During the late commission of Her Majesty's steamsloop Barracouta, on the East India and China station, she was employed upon various interesting expeditions ; her light draught of water and great steam power rendering her peculiarly applicable for such purposes.

I had the good fortune of visiting in her, in the years 1854, '55, and '56, various parts of the coast of China, the Japanese Islands, Kamtschatka, the coasts of Siberia and Tartary, and the island of Seghalien. I noted down, from time to time, whatever appeared to me to possess novelty or interest ; only regretting that I could not do justice to the scenery : and I have arranged my notes in a Narrative form.

The coasts which I visited are nowr becoming more interesting to us, since the opening of China and vi PREFACE.

Japan to British commerce ; while the possession by Russia of the river Amoor, renders a better acquaintance with the coasts of Siberia and Tartary very needful to our maritime interests. I trust, therefore, that the information contained in this volume will be found acceptable.

I am indebted for the charts and sketches to my

friends and former messmates, Lieut. W. K. Bush,

and Messrs. S. K. Freeman and F. H. May, R.N., to

whom I take this opportunity of returning my warmest

thanks.

J.M.T.

H.M.S. Hogue,

The Clyde, July, 1859.

Chapter I. Page

Departure of Sir J. Stirling's squadron for Japan — French frigate, Jean d' Arc, on shore — Muddy waters and mosquitoes — Japan in sight — Admiral's orders — Official inquiries — Arrival in the Port of Nagasaki, or Nangasaki — Scenery — Boats and batteries — Moonlight — Illuminated guardboats — Distant view of the city of Nagasaki — Barracouta's anchorage — Vegetation — Dutch ships — Object of our visit • 1

Chapter II

Japanese boat chant, " Ah sin Yah " — Visits from officials — Their swords — Japanese military and working classes contrasted — Dress — Admiral grows restless — Scanty supplies — Jack's indignation — H Little Britain ;" its formation, geological and botanical — Mountain pepper — Fish — Visit of His Excellency to the Governor of Nagasaki ...........

Chapter III

State processions — Grand junks and discordant music — Second visit of Admiral to the Governor— Presents to British officers from the Japanese Government — Exorbitant charges — Japanese zeal — Eefuse presents — Erroneous opinion of England and the English — Meteorological remarks — Beneficial effects of the climate . . . .17 viii CONTENTS.

CHAPTEE IV.

PAGE

Geographical position of Japan — Primitive races — Cities — Earliest accounts— Marco Polo — Eirando, or Hirada — Erroneous ideas of Marco Polo — Pindo's visit to Bungo — St. Francis Xavier ; his successful labours — Exportation of gold — Spread of Roman Catholic faith — Persecution of Christians — Adams of Gillingham — Talents — Jealousy of Portuguese 22

CHAPTEE V.

Adams writes to Captain Saris to induce the East India Company to trade with Japan — Dutch already successful — Intolerance of Portuguese— Action between Portuguese and Japanese in the harbour of Nagasaki — Bravery of Pessao — Destruction of Churches — Influence of Adams at Court — The first "Treaty" — Expulsion of Portuguese and Massacre of Christians — Krusenstern — Captain Pellew, in H.M.S. Phaeton — Golounin . 31

CHAPTEE VI.

Visit of United States Squadron — Commodore Perry proceeds to Jeddo — Visit of Admiral Poutatine — Russian Treaty — Dutch influence- United States Treaty — Dutch Treaty — Treaty with Great Britain framed by Rear-Admiral Sir J. Stirling . . . . . . 41

CHAPTEE VII.

Departure of the squadron — The sea — The petrel — Barracouta arrives at Hong-Kong— Monsoons — City of Victoria — Tai-pin Shan — The Club — Public buildings — Happy Valley — "The Press" — Geographical position of the island— Pirates and their retreats — The Caldera — Madame Loviot — Expedition to Tyhoo Bay — Captain Parker visits the Chinese Admiral — Prisoners — We lunch with His Excellency — Mr. Caldwell — Chinese salute 54

CONTENTS. ix

CHAPTER VIII.

PAGE

Expedition against Kuhlan pirates — Island of Tylo engagement — The lorcha Amazona — Destruction of villages and junks— Mid-day rest — Cheroots and brandy — Captain Rooney — Pirates humbled . . 65

CHAPTER IX.

The Rebels — Whampoa as it was and as it is — Tai-ping-wan's followers not Christians — The Pearl River — Blenheim Fort — Chinese naval review — Naval engagement — Bright morning and gloomy evening — Stray shots — Caged heads — Action No. 2. — Ruse to secure European mercenaries— Lorcha captured by rebels — Rescued by Captain G. Parker — Return to Hong Kong — Prata shoal — " Living Age " — " Tom Bowling " 72

CHAPTER X.

Preparations for sea — Departure — Fatsizio — Weather — Alceste — H.M.S. President — A gale — Sailor's pets — H.M.S. Encounter — Kamtschatka — Avatska Bay — Physical appearance of the country — Petropolovski — Arrival of squadron — Town deserted — Greek church — Kamtschatka dog . .85

CHAPTER XI.

Capture of Russian whaler — Rakouina — French officers — Fraternisation — Successful fishing— Russian batteries — La Perouse — Graves of the slain — Banquet on board H.I. M.S. Alceste — Captain Cochrane — Sarana — Cuckoo — Magnetic bearings — Description of Peninsula of Kamtschatka or Kamchatka — Conspiracy of 1771 — Bolsheretsk — Natural History — Weather . . . . . . . . 99

CHAPTER XII.

Departure from Petropolovski — The Raven "Grip" — Arrival off Cape Elizabeth — H.M.S. Amphitrite — Whalers — Obman's Bay — The weather — Coast of Siberia — "Ayan" — Tungouse — Huts and canoes

CONTENTS.

PAGE

— Spears — Botany — The town — Iron steamer destroyed — Forbearance of Captain Frederick — Departure from Ayan — We meet with Commodore Elliott's squadron — Ghiliacks . . ■ .. . . .118

CHAPTER XIII.

H.M.S. Hornet — H.I.M.S. Constantine — Destruction of the Okhotsk — Sarratt — Capture of the Greta, with crew of wrecked Diana — Lieutenant Pouschkin — Description of wreck at Simoda — Seghalien — Isle d'Langli — Russian prisoners . 136

CHAPTEE XIY.

Straits of Sangar — City of Matsmai — Arrival at Hakodadi — H.M.S. Pique and Saracen — Arrival at Nagasaki — Japanese regulations — Errors in old chart — Kurile islands— Japanese progress in the English language — Little Britain improved — Our summer residences and our recreations — Arrival of Encounter with mails — The squadron— Prisoners leave Barracouta — Ships sail for Castries Bay — Barracouta sails for Shanghai 150

CHAPTER XV.

Shanghae, or Shanghai — Foreign settlement — Good feeling and hospitality of residents — Dollars — Racecourse — Graves — Shipping — Exports and Imports — Cultivation of land — Beans, Cotton, Wheat — City of Shanghai — Temples and Tea-houses — Shops — Middle Temple — The Cangue — Traces of Imperialists 168

CHAPTEE XVI.

Graves — Memorial Gates — Graves in South of China — Mourning — Picnics— The river — Lung-hwa pagoda — The country — Woosung — Opium-ships — Process of testing the drug — Smoking opium — Walled town of Pao-shun — Theatre — Chinese fashionable mode of travelling — Bath-houses — Qui-tze — Tai-ping-Wan — French missionaries 183

CONTENTS. xi

CHAPTER XVII.

PAGE

High Mass for the French killed in action — Implements of husbandry — Dr. Lockhart's hospital — Piratical cruise — Chusan — City fortifications— Temple — Graves of the British — Potoo Island — Buddha — Bonzes — Chinhai — Opium Clipper — Ningpo wares — City and fort of Chinhai — Temple of Confucius — Cattle — Salt . . . 200

CHAPTER XVIII.

Massacre of pirates by islanders — Arrival at Shanghai — Thanks of officials — Erroneous statement of " Kreutz Zeitung" as to our treatment of Eussian prisoners — Fire at Hong Kong — Eesidents of the West End — Eobbers — Convicts — The city by night — Police — Pinghoi Bay — Preparations for sea . . . 224

CHAPTER XIX.

The weather — We sail for the North — Kiver Min — Pagoda island — Buddhism — Bain — Gutzlaff islet — Kiusiu — Volcanoes — Tang-sumasima — Gale — Cape Yatzouda — Headlands — Scenery — Arrival at Hakodadi — The harbour — The town — Bath-house and bathers — Japanese — Married and single — Physical appearance . . . 241

CHAPTER XX.

Japanese anxiety to learn English — Excursion — Fort — Teaching the " young idea how to shoot " — Houses — The interior — Mountains — Capes Tsjuka and Naidejda — Gulf of Tartary — Suffrein Bay — Beechy Head — Tully Island — Greek Cross — Ghiliacks — Eussian frigate Pallas — Barracouta harbour — Forests — Eussian settlement — Batteries — Fortescue island 260

CHAPTER XXI.

Natives fishing — Cape Lesseps — Appearance of Coast — Destitution Bay — Wild fowl — Natives — Worship — Sickness — De Castries Bay — The Amoor important to Eussia — Melting of the Ice— Through the xii CONTENTS.

PAGE

Woods— Graves of Finlanders — Her Majesty's Birthday — Capercailzie — Natural history — Return to Japan — French frigates Virginie and Constantine— Enter Bay of Hakodadi . . . . . . 277

CHAPTEE XXIL

Arrival of H.M.S. Hornet — Prince Imperial— Coal — Japanese desire to learn — Small arms exercise — Beauty of the country — Tea-garden — The Ainos — Old cannon — Governor visits Commodore — Cemetery — Sail for Tartary — The coast — Shelter Bay — Bullocks in view — Fishing and walking — Bullock Bay ....... 294

CHAPTER XXIII.

Fogs — Syhille on shore — Arrival at Barracouta Harbour — In search of a river — Forest life — Meet with natives — Peony and cypress — Our supper and bedroom — Sleeping under difficulties — Our compass and return — The river and the country — Huts and natives — Ghiliack words . . . . . . . . . . . . 310

CHAPTER XXIV.

Flora of Bullock Bay— Wood and Water — The Upupa — Sybille Bay — Tartars' early toilette — Grass Oula — Gnats and mosquitoes — Seals in Pique Bay — Excursion — Tartar horses — Wild plants and wild fowls — Our canoe and voyage — Tartar houses — Return to Hakodadi — American seamen .... .... 326

CHAPTER XXV.

Summer evening in Japan — Tea party — Dancing — Japanese music — ■ Evening costume — Pilchard fishing — Mode of preparing the oil — Temples —Bells — Decorations — Bonzes — Cemetery — Library — Buddhists—Sintoos — Foreign burial-place — Spanish guns — The vine — The town of Hakodadi — Shops — Doctor and daughters — Bazaar — Prices of provisions— Japanese politicians — Stores — Police . . 341

CONTENTS. xiii

CHAPTER XXVI.

PAGE

Coasting — Fogs — Port Seymour— Exploring Gilbert's River — Unfriendly Tartars — Target practice — Islands — Rocks of Port Seymour — Victoria Bay — Napoleon gulf — Fishing boats — Port Dundas — Mantchu Tartars at Supper — At Rifle practice— Port May — Port Bruce — Houses — Hornet Bay . . . . . . . . .364

CHAPTER XXVII.

French sailor of the Jason — Port Louis — Gold Diggings— Sail for Chousan — The Corea — Natives — Costumes — Manners — A ramble on shore — Beauty of the country — My military escort — Description of Corea — Arrival at Nagasaki — Enforce the treaty . . . . . . 384

CHAPTER XXVIII.

Sir Michael Seymour and Japanese Governor — Bazaar — The city — Temples — Brazen arch — Gods— Gardens — Dezima — Our Guards — Occupations — The Dairi — Morality — Temple and miniature gardens — Ziogoon — The laws — Fatsizio — Printing — Imports and Exports — Departure, and arrival at Hong Kong . . . .400

LIST OP ILLUSTRATIONS.

Japanese Garden to face Title.

Track Chart op the Northern Cruize op H.M.S. Barraoouta „ p. 1

Chart op Nagasaki Harbour „ „ 5

Chart op Entrance to the River Amoor . . . . „ „ 120

View of Isle op Langle (vignette) on ,, 146

Chart op Barracouta Harbour, Coast op Tartary . . to face „ 271

Approach to Castries Bat, Pie de Langle, Jonquiere Bay, and Seghalien, from the Anchorage, Eugenie

Archipelago, Tartary „ „ 282

View op Castries Bay „ „ 283

Japanese Coin (value three-halfpence) ^<V *\&\£ . . „ „ 345

Chart op Port Seymour, Coast of Tartary . . „ „ 365

View of Port Seymour . do w „ 366

Table Hill, and Spotted Hill, Guerin Gulf, and North

Part of Capricieuse Bay „ „ 373

Lines of Coast in Guerin Gulf ,, „ 374

View of Port May „ „ 378

Port Louis, Coast of Tartary, and Cape Vasbron, Corea „ „ 385

TIEMJK CMAJET £>F

NORTHERN (11117.1-: OF H.W.S. BARRACOUTA.

wit riu-:ui.\N. u.

PERSONAL NARRATIVE

OF A

VOYAGE IN H.M.S. BARRACOUTA.

Chapter I

Departure of Sir J. Stirling's squadron for Japan — French frigate, Jean d' Arc, on shore — Muddy waters and mosquitoes — Japan in sight — Admiral's orders — Official inquiries — Arrival in the Port of Nagasaki, or Nangasaki — Scenery — Boats and batteries — Moonlight — Illuminated guard" boats — Distant view of the city of Nagasaki — Barracoutds anchorage — Vegetation — Dutch ships — Object of our visit.

On the 7th of September, 1854, Sir James Stirling's squadron, consisting of H.M. ships Winchester, 50, flag; Encounter, screw streamer, 14 ; Styx, paddle-wheel, 6 ; and Barracouta, paddle-wheel, 6 guns, sailed from the mouth of the Yang-tez-o-Kiang for Japan. The ships had been at anchor for some time previous off Woosung, anxiously awaiting the arrival of H.I. M.S. Jean If Arc, with the French Admiral. This ship, when within a few hours' sail of the British squadron, struck on the north bank ; one of the many which render the navigation of this important river so truly dangerous, continually shifting and increasing in size, from the vast amount of mud and sand brought down each tide from the alluvial land through which the river flows. After a good deal of labour in lightening the French frigate, she floated, and was towed into deep water on the 18th of August ; upon examination she was found to be so much damaged by the accident as to require more than a month's repairs in the dock at Shanghai, when it would have been rather late in the season to visit the Russian possessions in the North. Much disappointment was felt throughout the squadron at the loss of our gallant allies, of whose presence we were now deprived through the treachery (it is said) of the pilot, who ran the ship over the wreck of the Old Cornwall, lost on the same bank twenty-five years ago.

Once on the blue waters, away from the influence of the muddy river — the son of the ocean — which tinges the water for upwards of fifty miles from its mouth, we bid adieu to mosquitoes and the black fly, which almost darken the air in the vicinity of fishing stakes, and by their combined efforts assist in rendering the life of an European perfectly miserable during the summer months. We breathe the pure sea-breeze and feel the bad effects of the atmosphere of China speedily disappear \ the sky is without a cloud and the temperature genial ; the poor invalid feels the change and already begins to hope, and raising his drooping head sighs for the coveted anchorage of Nagasaki.

On the afternoon of the 7th September, we sighted the Island of Kiusiu, one of the principal islands of

THE PORT OF NAGASAKI. 3

Japan ; many rocky islets extend along the coast, and as we near the port of Nagasaki, the Gotto Isles become visible. The Admiral signals the squadron to form " line of battle," and the commanders of the various ships repair on board the flag-ship to receive orders. These were soon communicated to the officers and crews, and related principally as to our rules of conduct towards the Japanese — civility towards themselves and obedience to their laws. As we had an object to gain in visiting Japan, it behoved us to create a good opinion as to ourselves and our institutions. The evening was calm, the water serenely blue, reflecting the white square sails of the many junks which lay on its bosom. As we entered the Bay of Pappenberg (the outer anchorage of Nagasaki), many official boats approached, and by waving flags and bunches of paper warned us not to enter the inner or middle anchorage. One personage, who appeared to be the custom-house officer, held up a white wand with some document attached, written in the Dutch language \ this was passed on to the flag-ship. It contained a list of questions as to where we were from ; our business j our intended stay ; and ordered the ships to anchor, at least for the present, in the outer anchorage. The entrance, sufficiently deep for the largest line-of-battle ship, was picturesque ; on either side the land rose high and steep, clothed with fir and cedar, from which peeped at intervals many a large gun. The right side was particularly well defended, having well-formed batteries, with guns of large calibre,

B 2 each provided with a separate shed ; behind each battery was placed a bomb-proof magazine of pyramidal shape.

A large number of soldiers and gazers were collected around a flag-staff erected on the summit of the highest hill, all anxious to witness the unexpected arrival of strange ships. We anchored in a retired and lonely nook, the official boats came nearer, so that we had opportunities of inspecting them minutely ; they are of peculiar shape, low and broad, the bow suddenly narrowing to a raised and sharp prow, from which depended a leash of black ropes, which appeared at a distance as if a net had been thrown over it ; the stern abrupt and broad. The forepart of the boat was roofed over for the reception of the officers; the rowers, eight in number, standing with their backs to the stern, propelled the shallop forwards at a good rate, keeping time to a musical chant, at first curious, but which soon became fatiguing to our ears. All the boats were very clean, and well-built of white deal, fine grained: some were built of cedar. The plentiful use of copper in the construction of junks and boats, gave an idea of the quantity of that valuable mineral distributed throughout the country. The scenery around is delightful; hill-sides cultivated in terraces ; shady valleys, whose sides were clothed with pines and evergreens ; pleasant hamlets embowered in groves, with gardens and mountain rivulets ; children gambolling, and peaceful peasants enjoying their evening rest, by sauntering towards the water's edge, with their tiny pipe, which appears to be ever in use.

NA ft P

W to

<^ MITSUSE

ZO

Z±

ZO

NOMOSAKI

MOONLIGHT — ILLUMINATED GUARD-BOATS. 5

The moon, as she rose from behind the distant mountains appeared brighter than usual — lighting up many a prominent hill and wooded islet, and throwing into dark shade our sheltered anchorage. Not a cloud sullied the firmament ; the air, clear and bracing, imparted a joyousness to our spirits, and made us contrast very forcibly the climate of Hong Kong on a September evening with that of Japan in the same month. A line of guard-boats were placed around the squadron, for the purpose, the authorities informed us, of keeping away troublesome intruders, such as smugglers; the real object being to prevent any person landing from the ships. Each guard-boat was provided with a lantern, similar to those used in China, and bore from her stern two flags attached to spears, one displaying the government arms, the other the arms of the officer in command of the boat.

The Admiral received some of the principal Japanese officials on board the Winchester. Like many of the Eastern nations, they exhibited no symptoms of curiosity in examining the heavy armament, or in witnessing the admirable discipline and order of a man-of-war. They promised supplies of vegetables and water, and to point out an anchorage near the city on the following morning, and took their departure with the courteous demeanour for which they are so distinguished.

Early on the morning of the 8th, the ships weighed anchor, and proceeded to the middle harbour, which is prettily situated, and within sight of the city of Nagasaki and of the Dutch settlement. The surface of the water was studded with numerous islets, thrown up at random by some volcanic action : they are covered by the pine, camphor-tree, and luxuriant camellia. All the islets, with one or two exceptions, were fortified ; and some rejoiced in three rows of guns, placed one over the other : the upper tier so high as to be perfectly harmless in repelling an invading foe.

The Barracouta anchored in ten fathoms of water, within range of a long and low battery, without parapet. Here were placed guns of large calibre, mortars, and field-pieces \ the latter apparently of European origin. On our right was the entrance to the inner harbour. A row of junks, connected together by chains, obstructed the passage for ships j and, as if this formidable array were not sufficient to guard the passage, the hills on both sides were decorated with batteries in terraces, each having from six to ten guns — a vast expenditure of brass. Barracks, or guard stations for men and officers, were placed at intervals near the edge of the water, having before them curtains of cotton chequered blue and white. In the distance we could see the city, which has a southern aspect, and is backed by a range of mountains. It extends along the shore for some distance, and retires by an easy ascent through a pretty valley. A small river flows through its centre j some of the streets run at right angles, others parallel to it. We were desirous of a more minute inspection, but were doomed to be disappointed : at least for a considerable period. Cultivation of every accessible spot of land seemed to

THE WEATHER DEZIMA.

be the order of the day. Beautiful fields were covered with rich crops, now turning yellow, the useful batata (Batata convolvulus), Zea Mays, turnips, and radishes ; the pine, cypress, and yew, were seen in clusters, groves, and plantations ; and the long and graceful bamboo adorned the valleys. Owing to the steepness of the hills and the frequent rains in spring, the land is cultivated in terraces, which, from a distance, have a pretty appearance ; and neat tea-gardens and houses are seen in each sheltered spot.

The weather, fine, bright, and enjoyable, made each one anxious to ramble on shore. We were promised the use of an island for exercise, but as yet permission had not been granted. Junks, of various shapes and sizes, flitted about; some gaily decorated wTith flags, others with heavy square sails, laced up the centre, took their departure for some of the neighbouring islands. A Dutch steamer and merchant ship were at anchor off Dezima, a small fan-shaped island, on which the Dutch factory is built, and where the few foreigners connected with the establishment pass a secluded existence. The island is connected with the main land by a narrow bridge; and the number of residents is limited to eleven. Behind us the country is hilly, tending in one direction towards the city ; and, in another, taking a south-westerly course towards the sea. A luxurious foliage crowns the summits ; evergreen shrubs cling to the rocks ; and the humble, but graceful ferns, in glen and valley, lend an additional charm to this strange and gifted land. It is hardly to be wondered that the Japanese desire no intercourse with other people : frugal in habits, content with their own laws, institutions, and natural productions, they require no succour from other nations. They relieve strangers in distress, but take no recompense in return. With a large standing army, and many forts, they think themselves capable of defending their own shores, and repressing any civil commotions which may occur.

The object of our visit to Japan was to form a treaty of trade and friendship with the Emperor. The Governor at first declined to receive Sir James Stirling, but sent couriers to Jeddo to inform the Government of the arrival of the squadron, and of Her Majesty's wish ; he also sent presents of fruit, vegetables, and sweetmeats, to each ship, for the officers, and some pigs and yams for the crews, and wished to supply us during our stay with all our requirements ; but the Admiral declined receiving any more without paying a fair value for each article.

Chapter II

Japanese boat chant, " Ah sin Yah " — Visits from officials — Their swords — Japanese military and working classes contrasted — Dress — Admiral grows restless— Scanty supplies — Jack's indignation — "Little Britain;" its formation, geological and botanical — Mountain pepper — Fish — Visit of His Excellency to the Governor of Nagasaki.

All day long our ears were wearied by the continual chaunt of the boatmen as they propelled their boats to and fro : Ah sin yah — Ah sin yah, ever the same, and monotonous in the extreme. By degrees the timidity of the natives wore off, and we had frequent visits from officers, some on duty, others from curiosity which they in vain endeavoured to repress. The machinery of the Barracouta appeared to puzzle them. They asked permission to take drawings of the various cylinders, pistons, cranks, &c. j and through the courtesy of Mr. Boulton, the chief engineer, they were enabled to obtain plans, which gave them infinite delight.

There are many grades of Japanese officers : those of the rank of lieutenant, and above that rank, wear two swords over the left hip — one short, and one slightly curved and long, with a small knife in the same sheath ; the latter is of wood, covered over with polished shagreen, of a greenish tint, and various ornaments, in

10 VOYAGE OF H.M.S. BARRACOOTA.

bronze and silver, decorate the hilt ; the guard, which is button-shaped, is curiously inlaid with silver and gold : they object to exhibit the blade, as it is considered an insult to draw the sword before a friend. I had frequent opportunities ere we left Japan of examining the swordblades ; which are of cast-steel, very hard, highly polished, and sharp.

There is a marked contrast in appearance between the working class and officials: the former, of fair average height, are athletic and healthy-looking fellows; the upper part of the body being muscular and well developed, and from continual exercise bronzed by constant exposure to the sun and every variety of weather : they are pure specimens of the Mongol race, with high cheek bones, small oblique eyes, jet-black hair, and scanty beards; the crown of the head is shorn, and the hair gathered from the back and sides, is formed into a short tail, which being drawn forwards, is depressed and fastened over the shorn part. They wear a slight turban, which is tied into a knot over the forehead. The rest of the dress is rather primitive : a simple girdle of blue cotton around the waist, with a cross piece attached, passing between the legs; and a pair of footless stockings, of blue and white cotton, extending from the ankle to within a couple of inches of the knees, complete their attire. In rainy weather, a loose cloak, made from the leaves of the bamboo, and a hat from the stems of the same plant, serve to keep out some of the rain. They are a friendly and good-humoured looking class.

APPEARANCE AND DRESS OF JAPANESE OFFICIALS. 11

The officials with whom we came in contact were reserved at first, but very polite and courteous in their bearing ; they salute strangers on approaching or retiring with a low bow, and an exclamation of o-hi-oh I which, I am told, is a usual salutation, without much meaning. They are thin, pale, and emaciated in appearance, as if from the excessive use of tobacco and indolent habits, as they seldom take any exercise ; but their eyes are bright and intelligent. They vary their dress according to the season, and in the present, autumn, the dress is peculiarly suited to the climate : a loose thin robe of dark material, made from wool and silk, is fastened over a loose pair of trowsers, of similar material, but lighter in colour. On the left side, the swords* are thrust through the girdle j and on the right depend a copper ink-bottle and penholder, and the ever-needful pipe and tobacco pouch. A pair of slippers, generally made from rice straw, are put off and on at pleasure, when on board ship, or in the government boats. An official mark is stamped on the back of the robe ; and if the wearer happens to be a grandee, his own armorial bearings are also imprinted on the dress.

Up to the 20th of September there was no reply from Jeddo, and the Admiral, naturally growing impatient, informed the authorities at Nagasaki, that if he did not receive a reply in a few days, he should proceed to the seat of Government. Every one felt the hardship of being detained so long on board ship, and in sight of such an inviting country. The Governor was desirous that the squadron should remain in the port of Nagasaki, rather than proceed to Jeddo, and allowed us to purchase food through the Dutch authorities at Dezima. The supply was rather scanty and of indifferent quality ; pigs small, fat, and soft, resembling the Chinese breed of the same animal ; fowls small and half starved, not at all like the fine birds we saw on other occasions. The vegetables were calculated to give us a poor opinion of the agriculture of Japan. The natives must have thought that anything in the shape of vegetables would have suited an English sailor, as they sent an immense pile of chicJcweed, to which Jack gave a " fair wind " over the ship's side. Many persons imagined that this bountiful and delicate supply was to give us a distaste for another visit. It was also supposed, though unjustly so, that the Dutch, jealous of our obtaining the same privileges that they enjoy, stimulated the Japanese to their present exclusive treatment of the British. I think that His Majesty the present King of the Netherlands, in his new treaty with Japan, is desirous that other nations should enjoy the same privileges so long granted to the Dutch.