Old Ceylon, sketches of Ceylon life in the olden time

Front matter

Division:

Section

.cef

Contents

The Garden of Flowers (Illustrated) •/ .

Our Cook’s Wedding ✓ .

Coffee Planting in the Olden Time Dutch Colombo (Illustrated)

Chapter I

lN the month of September, 1840, I started from Kandy to 2 visit a friend who was in charge of one of the new coffee clearings then in progress. I was accompanied by a young planter well acquainted with the country and the natives, and who had offered to act as my guide. The clearing was distant about twenty-five miles. The route we took since became famous for rebellion and martial law ; and concerning which one of the largest blue books of any session had been concocted.

As there was in those days no Matale Coach, we mounted our horses a good hour before day-break so as to ensure getting over the most exposed part of our journey before the sun should have risen very high — an important matter for man and beast in tropical countries. Towards noon, we pulled up at a little bazaar, or native shop, and called for “ Hoppers and Coffee.” I felt that I could have eaten almost anything, and truly one needs such an appetite to get down the dreadful black-draught which the Cingalese remorselessly administer to travellers, under the name of coffee. A basin of turbid inky-looking fluid covered with a thick scum of broken particles of coffee, that require to be skimmed off with the finger : such was the beverage.

The sun was already rather high in the horizon when we found ourselves suddenly at a turn of the road in the midst of a “ clearing.” This was quite a novelty to me ; so unlike anything one meets with in the low country or about the vicinity of Kandy. The clearing in question lay at an elevation of fully three thousand feet above the sea-level, whilst the attitude of Kandy is not more than seventeen hundred feet. I had never been on a hill estate, and the only notions formed by me respecting a plantation of coffee, were of continuous, undulating fields and gentle slopes. Here it was not difficult to imagine myself amongst the recesses of the Black Forest. Pile on pile of heavy dark jungle rose before my astonished sight looking like grim fortesses defending some hidden city of giants. The spot we had opened upon was at the entrance of a long valley of great width, on one side of which lay the young estate to which we were going-. Before us were, as my companion informed me, fifty acres of felled jungle in wildest disorder ; just as the monsters of the forest had fallen so they lay, heap on heap, crushed and splintered into ten thousand fragments. Fine brawny old fellows some of them ; trees that had stood many a storm and thunder-peal, trees that had sheltered the wild elephant, the deer, and the buffaloe, lay there prostrated by a few inches of sharp steel. The “ fall ” had taken place a good week before, and the trees would be left in this state until the end of October, by which time they would be sufficiently dry for a good “ burn.” Struggling on from trunk to trunk, and leading our horses slowly between the huge rocks that lay thickly around, we at last got through the “ fall,” and came to a part of the forest where the heavy, quick click of mauy axes told us there was a working party busily employed. Before us a short distance in the jungle, were the swarthy compact figures of some score or two of low country Cingalese plying their small axes with a rapidity and precision that was truly marvellous. It made my eyes wink again, to see how quickly their sharp tools flew about, and how near some of them went to their neighbours’ heads.

In the midst of these busy people I found my planting friend, superintending operations in full jungle costume. A sort of wicker helmet was on his head, covered with a long padded white cloth, which hung far down his back, like a baby’s quilt. A shooting jacket and trousers of checked country cloth ; immense leech-gaiters fitting close inside the roomy canvas boots ; and a Chinese-paper umbrella, made up his singular attire.

To me it was a pretty, as well as a novel sight, to watch the felling work in progress. Two axe-men to small trees ; three, and sometimes four, to larger ones : their little bright tools flung far back over their shoulders with a sharp flourish, and then, with a “ whirr,” dug in the heart of the tree, with such exactitude and in such excellent time, that the scores of axes flying about me seemed impelled by some mechanical contrivance, sounding but as one or two instruments. I observed that in no instance were the trees cut through, but each one was left with just sufficient of the stem intact to keep it upright ; on looking1 around, I saw that there were hundreds of trees similarly treated. The ground on which we were standing was extremely steep and full of rocks, between which lay embedded rich veins of arable soil. Where this is the case, the masses of stone are not an objection ; on the contrary they serve to keep the roots of the young coffee plants cool during the long dry season, and, in like manner prevent the light soil from being washed down the hill-side by heavy rains. My planter-friend assured me that if the trees were to be at once cut down, a few at a time, they would so encumber the ground as to render it impossible for the workmen to gain access to the adjoining trees, so thickly do they stand together, and so cumbersome are their heavy branches. In reply to my inquiry as to the method of bringing all these trees to the ground, I was desired to wait until the cutting on the hill-side was completed, and then I should see the operation finished.

The small axes rang out a merry chime — merrily to the planter’s ear — but the death-knell of many a fine old forest tree. In half-an-hour the signal was made to halt, by blowing a conch shell : obeying the order of the superintendent, I hastened up the hill as fast as my legs would convey me, over rocks and streams halting at the top, as I saw the whole party do. Then they were ranged in order, axes in hand on the upper side of the topmost row of cut trees. I got out of their way, watching anxiously every movement. All being ready the manager sounded the conch sharply, two score voices raised a shout that made me start again ; forty bright axes gleamed high in air, then sank deeply into as many trees, which at once yielded to the sharp steel, groaned heavily, waved their huge branches to and fro, like drowning giants, then toppled over, and fell with a stunning crash upon the trees below them. These having been cut through previously, offered no resistance, but followed the example of their upper neighbours, and fell booming on those beneath. In this way the work of destruction went rapidly on from row to row. Nothing was heard but groaning, cracking, crushing, and splintering ; it was some little time before I got the sounds well out of my ears. At the time it appeared as though the whole of the forest-world about me was tumbling to pieces ; only those fell, however which had been cut, and of such not one was left standing. There they would lie after lopping off the principal branches until sufficiently dry for the torch that would blacken their massive trunks, and calcine their many branches into dusty heaps of alkali.

By the time this was completed, and the men put on to a fresh “ cut,” we were ready for our mid-day meal, the planters’ breakfast. Away we toiled towards the Bungalow. Passing through a few acres of standing forest, and over a stream, we came to a small cleared space well sheltered from wind, and quite snug in every respect. It was thickly sown with what at a distance I imagined to be young lettuces, or, perhaps, very juvenile cabbage-plants, but I was told this was the “ nursery,” and those tiny green things were young Coffee plants with which it was intended to form the future Soolookande Estate. On learning that we had reached the “ Bungalow,” I looked about me to discover its locality, but in vain ; there was no building to be seen ; but presently my host pointed out to me what I had not noticed before — a small, low-roofed, thatched place, close under a projecting rock, and half hid by thorny creepers. I imagined this to be his fowlhouse, or, perhaps, a receptacle for tools, but was not a little astonished when I saw my friends beckon me on, and enter at the low, dark door. This miserable little cabin could not have been more than twelve feet long by about six feet wide, and as high at the walls. This small space was lessened by heaps of tools, coils of string for u lining ” the ground before planting, sundry boxes and baskets, an old rickety table, and one chair. At the farther end, if anything could be far in that hole, was a jungle bedstead formed by driving green stakes in the floor and walls, and stretching rope across them. I could not help expressing astonishment at the miserable quarters provided for one who had so important a charge, and such costly outlay to make. My host however, treated the matter very philosophically. Everything, he observed, is good or bad by comparison ; and wretched as the accommodation appeared to me who had been accustomed to the large, airy houses of Colombo, he seemed to be quite satisfied ; indeed, he told me, that when he had finished putting up this little crib, had moved in his one table and chair, and was seated, cigar in mouth, inside the still damp mud walls, he thought himself the happiest of mortals. I felt somewhat curious to know where he had dwelt previous to the erection of this unique building, — whether he had perched up in the forest trees or in holes in the rocks, as I had heard was done by the wild Yeddahs of Bintenna.

I was told that his first habitation when commencing work up there, was suspended over my head. I looked up to the dark dusty roof, and perceived a bundle of what I conceived to be old dirty brown paper, or parchment-skin. Perciving my utter ignorance of the arrangement, he took down the roll, and spread it open outside the door. It turned out to be two or three huge Talipot leaves which he assured me was the only shelter he had possessed for nearly three months, and that too, during the rainy season. They might have measured ten feet in length, and possibly five in width ; pretty well for a leaf or two : they were used by fastening a stout pole lengthways to two stakes driven in the ground ; the leaves were hung across this ridge-pole mid-way, and the corners of them made fast by cords : common mats being hung at each end and under the leafy roof.

The “ Lines,” a long row of mud huts for the coolies, appeared to be much more comfortable than their master’s dwelling. But this is necessarily the case, for unless they be well cared for they will not remain on a remote estate, such, as this one was then considered. The first thing a good planter sees to is a roomy and dry set of “ Lines” for the people : then the “ Nursery” of coffee plants, and thirdly, a hut for himself.

The Superintendent assured me that none but those who had opened an estate in a remote district, could form any idea of the difficulties and privations encountered by the planter. “ Folks may grumble as they like, down in Colombo, or in England,” said my friend, “ about the high salaries paid to managers, but if some of them had only a month of it up here, in the rains, I suspect they’d change their notions.”

He had had the greatest difficuly at first in keeping but a dozen men on the place to clear ground for lines and nurseries : so strong is the objection felt by Malabars to new and distant plantations. On one occasion he had been quite deserted : even his old cook ran away, and he found himself with only a little Cingalese boy, aud his rice, biscuit and dried fish all but exhausted. As for meat, he had not tasted any for many days. There was no help for it he saw, but to send off the little boy to the nearest village, with a rupee, to buy some food, and try to persuade some of the village people to come up and assist him. When evening came on, there was no boy back, and the lonely planter had no fire to boil his rice. Night came on, and still he was alone : hungry, cold, and desolate. It was a Sabbath evening, and he pointed out to me the large, stone on which he had sat down to think of his friends in the old country ; the recollection of his distance from them and of his then desolate Crusoe-like position, came so sadly, so bitterly upon him that the strong man wept like a child. I almost fancied I saw a tear start to his large eye, as he related the circumstance.

During that same night, as he lay sleeping supperless, fatigue having overcome hunger, a great storm of rain and wind arose, and far into the night he was rudely awoke by a sensation of intense cold : looking upwards from his jungle couch he saw a few stars twinkling between the flying masses of clouds, the rain falling on him as he lay. A strong gust of wind had swept away the talipot roof, and he had no resource but to creep in beneath his wretched stick bed, and lay shivering there until the cold morning broke.

Ceylon planters are proverbially hospitable : the utmost stranger is at all times sure of a hearty welcome for himself and his horse. On this occasion, my jungle friend turned out the best cheer his small store afforded. It is true, we had but one chair amongst us, but that only served to give us amusement in making seats of baskets, boxes, and old books. A dish of rice, and curry, made of dry salt fish, two red herrings, and the only fowl on the estate, formed our meal ; and poor as the repast may appear to those who have never done a good day’s journey in the jungles of Ceylon, I can vouch for the keen relish with which we all partook of it.

In the afternoon we strolled out to inspect the first piece of planting on the Soolookande estate. It was in extent about sixty acres, divided into fields of ten acres by narrow belts of tall trees. This precaution was adopted, I learnt, with a view to protect the young plants from the violence of the wind, which at times rushes over the mountains with terrific fury.

Unless thus sheltered by belts or by “ staking,” the young plants get loosened, or are whirled round until the outer bark becomes worn away, and then they sicken and die, or if they live, yield no fruit. “ Staking” is simply driving a stout peg in the ground, and fastening the plant steadily to it, but it is an expensive process, The young trees in these fields had been put out during the previous rains of July, and though still very small, looked fresh and healthy. I had always imagined planting out to be a very simple and easy affair ; but I now learnt that exceeding care and skill are required in the operation. The holes to receive the young coffee plant must be wide and deep ; they can scarcely be too large, the earth must be kept well about the roots of the seedling in removing it ; and care must be taken that the tap-root be neither bent, nor planted over any stone or other hard substance : neglect of these important points is fatal to the prosperity of the estate. The yellow drooping leaves, and stunted growth, soon tell the proprietor that his superintendent has done his work carelessly ; but alas ! it is then too late to apply any remedy, save that of replanting the ground.

I left this estate impressed with very different notions concerning the life and trials of a planter in the jungle from what I had gathered from mere Colombo gossip ; and I felt that superintendents were not at all overpaid for their skill, patience, privations, and hard work.