Narrative of a voyage to the northwest coast of America in the years 1811, 1812, 1813, and 1814; or, The first American settlement of the Pacific

Front matter

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Preface To The Second Edition

In 1846, when the boundary question (that of the Oregon Territory in particular) was at its height, the Hon. Thomas H. Benton delivered in the United States Senate a decisive speech, of which the following is an extract : —

"Now for the proof of all I have said. I happen to have in my possession the book of all others, which gives the fullest and most authentic details on all the points I have mentioned — a book written at a time, and under circumstances, when the author (himself a British subject and familiar on the Columbia) had no more idea that the British would lay claim to tliat river, than

4 PREFACE TO THE SECOND EDITION.

Mr. Harmon, the American writer whom I quoted, ever thought of our claiming New Caledonia. It is the work of Mr. Franchere, a gentleman of Montreal, with whom I have the pleasure to be personally acquainted, and one of those employed by Mr. Astor in founding his colony. He was at the founding of Astoria, at its sale to the Northwest Company, saw the place seized as a British conquest, and continued thx^re after its seizure. He wrote in French: his work has not been done into English, though it well deserves it ; and I read from the French text. He gives a brief and true account of the discovery of the Columbia."

I felt justly proud of this notice of my mipretending work, especially that the latter should have contributed, as it did, to the amicable settlement of the then pending difficulties. I have flattered myself ever since, that it belonged to the historical literature of the great country, which by adoption has become mine.

The re-perusal of " Astoria" by Washington Irving (1836) inspired me with an additional

Preface To The Second Edition. 5

motive for giving my book in an English dress. Without disparagement to Mr. Irving's literary fame, I may venture to say that I found in his work inaccuracies, misstatements (unintentional of course), and a want of chronological order, which struck forcibly one so familiar with the

events themselves. I thought I could show

or rather that my simple narration, of itself, plainly discovered — that some of the young men embarked in that expedition (which founded our Pacific empire), did not merit the ridicule and contempt which Captain Thorn attempted to throw upon them, and which perhaps, through the genius of Mr. Irving, might otherwise remain as a lasting stigma on their characters.

But the consideration which, before all others, prompts me to offer tliis narrative to the American reading public, is my desire to place before them, therein, a simple and connected account (which at this time ought to be interesting), of the early settlement of the Oregon Territory by one of our adopted citizens, the enterprising merchant John Jacob Astor. The importance

6 PEEFACE TO THE SECOND EDITION.

of a vast territory, ■which at no distant day may add two more bright stars to our national banner, is a guarantee that my humble efifort will be appreciated.

NOTE BY THE EDITOR.

It has been the editor's wish to let Mr. Franchere speak for himself. To preserve in the translation the Defoe-like simplicity of the original narrative of the young Freciih Canadian, has been his chief care. Having read many narratives of travel and adventure in our northwestern wilderness, he may be permitted to say that he has met with none that gives a more vivid and picturesque description of it, or in which the personal adventures of the narrator, and the varying fortunes of a great enterprise, mingle more happily, and one may say, more dramatically, with the itinerary. The clerkly minute-

PEEFACE TO THE SECOND EDITION. 7

ness of the details is not mthout its charm either, and their fidelity speaks for itself. Take it altogether, it must be regarded as a fragment of our colonial history saved from oblivion ; it fills up a vacuity which Mr. Ieving's classic work does not quite supply; it is, in fact, the only account by an eye-witness and a participator in the enterprise, of the first attempt to form a settlement on the Pacific under the stars and stripes.

The editor has thought it would be interesting to add Mr. Franchere's Preface to the original French edition, which will be found on the next page.

Baltimore, February 6, 1854.

Preface To The French Edition

When I was writing my journal on the vessel which carried me to the northwest coast of North America, or in the wild regions of this continent, I was far from thinking that it would be placed one day before the public eye. I had no other end in writing, but to procure to my family and my friends a more exact and more connected detail of what I had seen or learned in the course of my travels, than it would have been possible for me to give them in a viva voce narration. Since my return to my native city, my manuscript has passed into various hands and has been read by different persons : several of my friends immediately ad\*ised me to print it ; but it is only quite lately that I have allowed

10 PREFACE TO THE FREXCH EDITIOX.

myself to be persuaded, tliat without being a learned naturalist, a skilful geographer, or a profound moralist, a traveller may yet interest by the faithful and succinct account of the situations in which he has found himself, the adventures which have happened to him, and the incidents of which he has been a witness ; that if a simple ingenuous narrative, stripped of the merit of science and the graces of diction, must needs be less enjoyed by the man of letters or by the savant, it would have, in compensation, the advantage of being at the level of a greater number of readers ; in fine, that the desire of affording an entertainment to his countrymen, according to his capacity, and without any mixture of the author's vanity or of pecuniary interest, would be a well-founded title to thcii' indulgence. Whether I have done well or ill in yielding to these suggestions, which I am bound to regard as those of friendship, or of good-will, it belongs to the impartial and disinterested reader to decide.

Montreal, 1819.

Chapter I

Departure from Montreal. — Airival in New York. — Descrii> tion of that City. — Names of the Persons engaged in the Expedition page 23

CHAPTER n.

Departure from New York. — Reflections of the Author. — Navigation, falling in with other Ships, and various Incidents, till the Vessel comes in Sight of the Falkland Isles. 32

Chapter VI

Departure from Wahoo. — Storm. — Arrival at the Mouth of the Columbia. — Reckless Order of the Captain. — Difficulty of the Entrance. — Perilous Situation of the Ship.— Unhappy Fate of a Part of the Crew and People of the Expedition 81

Chapter VII

Rt^gTCts of the Author at the Loss of his Companions. — Obsequies of a Sandwich-Islander. — First Steps in the Formation of the intended Establishment. — New Alami. — Encampment 94

Chapter VIII

Voyage u^. the River. — Description of the Country. — Meeting with strange Indians 104

Chapter IX

Departure of the Tonquiu. — Indian Messengers. — Project of an Expedition to the Interior. — Arrival of Mr. Daniel Thompson. — Departure of the Expedition. — Designs upon us by the Natives. — Rumors of the Destruction of the Tonquin. — Scarcity of Provisions. — Narrative of a strange Indian.— Duplicity and Cunning of Comcomly 116

Chapter X

Occupation at Astoria. — Return of a Portion of the Men of the Expedition to the Interior. — New Expedition. — Excureion in Search of three Deserters 129

CHAPTER XL

Departure of Mr. R. Stuart for the Interior. — Occupations at Astoria. — Arrival of Messrs. Donald M'Kenzie and Robert M'Lellan. — Account of their Journey. — Arrival of Mr. Wilson P. Hunt 142

Chapter XII

An-ival of the Ship Beaver. — Unexpected Return of Messrs. D. Stuart, R. Stuart, M'Lelland, &c. — Cause of that Return.— Ship discharging. — Nev^^ Expeditions. — Hostile Attitude of the Natives. — Departure of the Beaver. — Journeys of the Author. — His Occupations at the Establishment 154

CHAPTER Xm.

Uneasiness respecting- the "Beaver." — News of the Declaration of War between Great Britain and the United States. — Consequences of that Intelligence. — Different Occurrences.— Arrival of two Canoes of the Northwest Company.— Preparations for abandoning the Countrj'. — Postponement of Departure. — Arrangement with Mr. J. G. M'Tavish 165

Chapter XIV

Aixival of the Ship "Albatross." — Reasons for the Non-Appearance of the Beaver at Astoria. — Fruitless Attempt of Captain Smith on a Former Occasion. — Astonishment and Regret of Mr. Hunt at the Resolution of the Partners. — His Departure. — Narrative of the Destruction of the Tonquin. — Causes of that Disaster. — Reflections 173

Chapter XV

Arrival of a Number of Canoes of the Northwest Company. •^Sale of the Establishment at Astoria to that Company.

— Canadian News.— Arrival of the British Sloop-of-War " Raccoon." — Accident on Board that Vessel. — The Captain takes Formal Possession of Astoria. — Surprise and Discontent of the Officers and Crew. — Departure of the " Raccoon" 190

Manners, Customs, Occupations, &c., of the Natives on the River Columbia 240

Chapter XX

Manners and Customs of the Natives continued. — Their Wars. — Their Maniages. — Medicine Men. — 'Funeral Ceremonies.— Religious Notions. — Language 250

CHAPTER XXL Departure from Astoria or Fort George. — Accident. — Passage of the Dalles or Narrows. — Great Columbian Desert.

— Aspect of the Countiy. — Wallawalla and Slia-aptin Rivers.— Rattlesnakes. — Some Details regarding the Natives of the Upper Cohimbia . . . . 263

Chapter XXII

Meeting with the Widow of a Hunter. — Her Narrative. — ifeflections of the Author. — Priest's Rapid. — River Okenakan. — Kettle Falls. — Pine Moss. — Scarcity of Food. — Rivers, Lakes, &c. — Accident. — A Rencontre. — First View of the Rocky Mountains 273

CHAPTER XXm.

Course of the Columbian River. — Canoe River. — Foot-march towai'd the Rocky Mountains. — Passage of the Mountains 286

Chapter XXIV

Arrival at the Fort of the Mountains. — Descrijition of this Post. — Some Details in Regard to the Rocky Mountains.

— Mountain Sheep, &c. — Continuation of the Journey. — Unhappy Accident. — Reflections. — News from Canada. — Hunter's Lodge. — Pembina and Red Deer Rivers . . . 297

Arrival at Fort William.*^ Description of that Post. — News from the River Columbia 337

Chapter XXVIII

Departure from Fort William. — Navigation on Lake Superior, — Michipicoton Bay. — Meeting a Canoe. — Balchawainon Bay. — Arrival at Saut Ste. Marie. — Occurrences there. — Departure.— Lake Huron. — French River. — Lake Nipis- Bing. — Ottawa River. — Kettle Falls. — Rideau River. — Long-Saut. — Arrival in Montreal. — Conclusion .... 347

Chapter XXIX

Present State of the Countries visited by the Author. — Correction of Mr. Living's Statements respecting St. Louis . 359

APPENDIX,

Mr. Seton's Adventures. — Survivors of the Expedition in 1854. — Author's Protest against some Expressions in Mr. Irving's "Astoria." — Editor's Note 367

Introduction

Since the independence of the United States of America, the merchants of that industrious and enterprising nation have carried on an extremely advantageous commerce on the northwest coast of this continent. In the course of their voyages they have made a great number of discoveries which they have not thought proper to make public ; no doubt to avoid competition in a lucrative business.

In 1792, Captain Gray, commanding tho ship Columbia of Boston, discovered in latitude 46° 19'' north, the entrance of a great bay on the Pacific coast. He sailed into it, and having perceived that it was the outlet or estuary of a large river, by the fresh water which he found at a little distance from the entrance, he continued his course upward some eighteen miles, and dropped anchor on the left bank, at the opening of a deep bay. There he made a map or rough sketch of what he had seen of this river (accompanied by a written description of the soundings, bearings, &c.) ; and having finished his traffic with the natives (the object of his voyage to these parts), he put out to sea, and soon after fell in with Captain Vancouver, who was cruising by order of the British government, to seek new discoveries. Mr. Gray acquainted him with the one he had just made, and even gave him a copy of the chart he had drawn up. Vancouver, who had just driven off a colony of Spaniards established on the coast, under the command of Seiior Quadra (England and Spain being then at war), despatched his first-lieutenant Broughton, who ascended the river in boats some one hundred and twenty or one hundred and fifty miles, took possession of the country in the name of his Britannic majesty, giving the river the name of the Columbia^ and to the bay where the American captain stopped, that of Gray's hay. Since that period the country had been seldom visited (till 1811), and chiefly by American ships.

Sir Alexander M'Kenzie, in his second overland voyage, tried to reach the western ocean by the Columbia river, and thought he had succeeded when he came out six degrees farther north, at the bottom of Puget's sound, by another river.*

In 1805, the American government sent Captains Lewis and Clark, with about thirty men, including some Kentucky hunters, on an overland journey to the mouth of the Columbia. They ascended the Missouri, crossed the mountains at the source of tliat river, and following the course of the Columbia, reached the shores of the Pacific, where they were forced to winter. The report which they made of their expedition to the United States government created a lively sensation.!

" M'Kenzie's Travels. \ Lewis and Clark's Report.

Mr. Jolin Jacob Astor, a New York merchant, who conducted almost alone the trade in furs south of the great lakes Huron and Superior, and who had acquired by that commerce a prodigious fortune, thought to augment it by forming on the banks of the Columbia an establishment of which the principal or supply factory should be at the mouth of that river. He communicated his views to the agents of the Northwest Company ; he was even desirous of forming the proposed establishment in concert with them ; but after some negotiations, the inland or wintering partners of that association of fur-traders having rejected the plan, Mr. Astor determined to make the attempt alone. He needed for the success of his enterprise, men long versed in the Indian trade, and he soon found them. Mr. Alexander M'Kay (the same who had accompanied Sir Alexander M' Kenzie in his travels overland), a bold and enterprising man, left the Northwest Company to join him ; and soon after, Messrs Duncan M'Dougal and Donald M' Kenzie (also in the service of the comp!ln)>), and

Messrs. David Stuart and Robert Stuart, all of Canada, did tlie same. At length, in the winter of 1810, a Mr. Wilson Price Hunt of St. Louis, on the Mississippi, having also joined them, they determined that the expedition should be set on foot in the following spring.

It was in the course of that winter tliat one of my friends made me acquainted in coniidence with the plan of these gentlemen, under the injunction of strictest secrecy. The desire of seeing strange countries, joined to that of acquiring a fortune, determined me to solicit employment of the new association ; on the 20th of May I had an interview with Mr. A. M'Kay, with whom the preliminaries were arranged ; and on the 24th of the same month I signed an agreement as an apprenticed clerk for the term of five years.

When the associates had engaged a sufficient number of Canadian boatmen, they equipped a bark canoe imder charge of Messrs. Hunt and M'Kenzie, with a Mr. Perrault as clerk, and a crew of fourteen men. These gentlemen were to proceed to Mackinaw, and thence to St. Louis, hiring on the way as many men as they could to man the canoes, in which, from the lastmentioned port, they were to ascend the Missouri to its source, and tliere diverging from the route followed by Lewis and Clark, reach the mouth of the Columbia to form a junction with another party, who were to go round by way of Cape Horn. In the course of my narrative I shall have occasion to speak of the success of both these expeditions.

NARRATIVE OF A VOYAGE

NORTHWEST COAST OF AMERICA.

Chapter I

Departure from Montreal. — Anrival in New York. — Description of that City. — Names of tlie Persons engaged in the Expedition.

We remained in Montreal the rest of the spring and a part of the summer. At last, having completed our arrangements for the journey, we received orders to proceed, and on the 26th of July, accompanied by my father and brothers and a few friends, I repaired to the place of embarkation, where was prepared a birch bark canoe, manned by nine Canadians, having Mr. A. M'Kay as commander, and a Mr. A. Fisher as passenger. The sentiments which I experienced at that moment would be as difficult for me to describe as they were painful to support ; for the first time in my life I quitted the place of my birth, and was separated from beloved parents and intimate friends, ha\'ing for my whole consolation the faint hope of seeing them again. We embarked at about five, P. M,, and arrived at La Prairie de la Madeleine (on the opposite side of the St. Lawrence), toward eight o'clock.* We slept at this village, and the next morning, very early, having secured the canoe on a wagon, we got in motion again, and reached St. John's on the river Richelieu, a little before noon. Here we relaunched our canoe (after having well calked the seams), crossed or rather traversed the length of Lake Champlain, and arrived at Whitehall on the 30th. There we were overtaken by Mr. Ovid de Montigny, and a Mr. P. D. Jeremie, who were to be of the expedition.

Having again placed our canoe on a wagon,

* This place is famous in tlie history of Canada, and more particularly in the thrilling story of the Indian missions. — Ed.

ARRIVED AT NEW YORK. 25

we pursued our journey, and arrived on the 1st of August at Lansingburg, a little village situated on the bank of the river Hudson. Here we got our canoe once more afloat, passed by Troy, and by Albany, everywhere hospitably received, our Canadian boatmen, having their hats decorated with parti-colored ribands and feathers, being taken by the Americans for so many wild Indians, and arrived at New York on the 3d, at eleven o'clock in the evening.

We had landed at the north end of the city, and the next day, being Sunday, we re-embarked, and were obliged to make a course round the city, in order to arrive at our lodgings on Long Island. We sang as we rowed ; which, joined to the unusual sight of a birch bark canoe impelled by nine stout Canadians, dark as Indians, and as gayly adorned, attracted a crowd upon the wharves to gaze at us as we glided along. Wc found on Long Island (in the village of Brooklyn) those young gentlemen engaged in the service of the new company, who had left Canada in advance of our party.

The vessel in which we were to sail not being ready, I should have found myself quite isolated and a stranger in the great city of New York,

but for a letter of introduction to Mr. G ,

given me on my setting out, by Madame his sister. I had formed the acquaintance of this gentleman during a stay which he had made at Montreal in 1801 ; but as I was then very young, he would probably have had some difficulty in recognising me without his sister's letter. He introduced me to several of his friends, and I passed in an agreeable manner the five weeks which elapsed between my arrival in New York and the departure of the ship.

I shall not undertake to describe New York ; I will only say, that the elegance of the buildings, public and private, the cleanliness of the streets, the shade of the poplars which border them, the public walks, the markets always abundantly I provided with all sorts of commodities, the activity of its commerce, then in a flourishing condition, the vast number of ships of all nations which crowded the quays ; all, in a word, con-

NEW YORK, 27

spired to make me feel the difference between this great maritime city and my native town, of whose steeples I had never lost sight before, and which was by no means at that time what it is now.

New York was not then, and indeed is not at this time a fortified town ; still there were several batteries and military works, the most considerable of which were seen on the Narroivs, or channel which forms the principal mouth of the Hudson. The isles called Governor's Island, and Bedloe or Gibbet Island, were also well fortified. On the first, situated to the west of the city and about a mile from it, there were barracks sufficiently capacious for several thousand soldiers, and a Moro, or castle, with three tiers of guns, all bomb-proof. These works have been strengthened during the last war.

The market-places are eight in number; the most considerable is called Fly-Market.

The Park, the Battery, and Vauxhall Garden, are the principal promenades. There were, in 1810, thirty-two churches, two of which were devoted to the catholic worship ; and the population was estimated at ninety thousand souls, of whom ten thousand were French. It is thought that this population has since been augmented (1819) by some thirty thousand souls.

During my sojourn at New York, I lodged in Brooklyn, on Long Island, This island is separated from the city by a sound, or narrow arm of the sea. There is here a pretty village, not far from which is a basin, where some gun-boats were hauled up, and a few war vessels were on the stocks. Some barracks had been constructed here, and a guard was maintained.

Before leaving New York, it is well to observe that during our stay in that city, Mr. M'Kay thought it the part of prudence to have an interview with the minister plenipotentiary of his Britannic majesty, Mr. Jackson,* to inform him of the object of our voyage, and get his views in regard to the line of conduct we ought to follow in case of war breaking out between the two powers ; intimating to him that we were all Brit-

* This geiUlemaii was really charge iVnJj'aires.

THE TONQUIN. 29

ish subjects, and were about to trade under the American flag. After some moments of reflection Mr. Jackson told him, " that we were going on a very hazardous enterprise ; that he saw our object was purely commercial, and that all ho could promise us, was, that in case of a war we should be respected as British subjects and traders."

This reply appeared satisfactory, and Mr. M'Kay thought we had nothing to apprehend on that side.

The vessel in which we were to sail was called tlie Tonquin, of about 300 tons burden, commanded by Captain Thorn (a first-lieutenant of the American navy, on furlough for this purpose), with a crew of twenty-one men. The number of passengers was thirty-three. Here follow the names of both.

Passengers.

'Messrs. Alexander M'Kay i

_, I " Duncan M'Dougall, I „ „^ ,

Partners < ° ^ all of Canada.

" David Stuart, f

" Robert Stuart, J franchere's voyage.

Clerks <

'James Lewis of New York.

Russel Farnham of Massachusetts. William W. Matthews of New York Alexander Ross, Donald M'Gillis, Ovide de Montigny, Francis B. Pillot, Donald M'Lennan, William Wallace, Thomas M'Kay, Gabriel Franchere,

> all from Canada.

Joseph LapieiTe, Joseph Nadeau, J. B"te. Bclleau, Antoine Belleau, Louis Brusl6, P. D. Jeremie, all of Canada.

Johann Koaster, ship-carpenter, a Russian, George Bell, cooper, New York, •lob Aitken, rigger and calker, from Scotland, Augustus Roussil, blacksmith, Canada, Guilleaume Perreault, a boy. These last were all mechanics, &c., destined for the establishment.

Crew.

Jonathan Thorn, captain. New York State.

Ebene7.er D. Fox, 1st mate, of Boston.

John M. Mumford, 2d mate, of Massachusetts.

.Tames Thorn, brother of the captain. Now York.

John Anderson, boatswain, foreigner.

John Weeks, carpenter, "

CREW.

SI ilmake

Sailor

Stephen Weeks, armorer, New York.

John Coles, New York, >

> I John Martin, a Frenchman, )

John White, New York.

Adam Fisher, "

Peter Verbel, "

Edward Aj-mes, "

Robert Hill, Albany, New York.

John Adams, "

Joseph Johnson, Englishman,

^Charles Roberts, New York,

A colored man as cook,

A mulatto steward,

And three or four others whose names I have forgotten r

CHAPTER 11.

Departure from New York. — Reflections of the Author. — Navigation, falling in with other Ships, and various Incidents, till the Vessel comes in Sight of the Falkland Isles.

All being ready for our departure, we went on board ship, and weighed anchor on the 6th of September, in the morning. The wind soon fell off, and the first day was spent in drifting down to Staten island, where we came to anchor for the night. The next day we weighed anchor again ; but there came on another dead calm, and we were forced to cast anchor near the lighthouse at Sandy Hook. On the 8th we weighed anchor for the third time, and by the help of a fresh breeze from the southwest, we succeeded in passing the bar ; the pilot quitted us at about eleven o'clock, and soon after we lost sight of the coast.

REFLECTIONS. SS

One must have experienced it one's self, to be able to conceive the melancholy which takes possession of the soul of a man of sensibility, at the instant that he leaves his country and the ci\alized world, to go to inhabit with strangers in wild and unknown lands. I should in vain endeavor to give my readers an idea, even faintly correct, of the painful sinking of heart that I suddenly felt, and of the sad glance which I involuntarily cast toward a future so much the more frightful to 'me, as it offered nothing but what was perfectly confused and uncertain. A new scene of life was unfolded before me, but how monotonous, and ill suited to diminish the dejection with which my mind was overwhelmed ! For the first time in my life, I found myself under way upon the main sea, with nothing to fix my regards and arrest my attention but the frail machine which bore me between the abyss of waters and the immensity of the skies. I remained for a long time with my eyes fixed in the direction of that land which I no longer saw, and almost despaired of ever seeing again ; I made

0* serious reflections on the nature and consequences of the enterprise in which I had so rashly embarked ; and I confess that if at that moment the offer had been made to release me from my engagement, I should have accepted the proposal with all my heart. It is true that the hopeless confusion and incumberment of the vessel's deck, the groat number of strangers among whom I found myself, the brutal style which the captain and his subalterns used toward our young Canadians ; all, in a word, conspired to make me augur a vexatious and disagreeable voyage. The sequel will show that I did not deceive myself in that.

We perceived very soon in the S. "W., which was our weather side, a vessel that bore directly toward us ; she made a signal that was understood by our captain ; we hove to, and stood on her bow. It turned out to be the American frigate Constitution. We sent our boat on board of her, and sailed in company till toward five o'clock, when, our papers having been sent back to us, we separated.

CAPE-VERD ISLES. 35

The wind having increased, the motion of the vessel made us sea-sick, those of us, I mean, who were for the first time at sea. The weather was fine, however ; the vessel, which at first sailing was lumbered in such a manner that we could hardly get in or out of our berths, and scarcely work ship, by little and little got into order, so that we soon found ourselves more at ease.

On the 14th we commenced to take flying fish. The 24th, we saw a great quantity of dolphins. We prepared lines and took two of the latter, which we cooked. The flesh of this fish appeared to me excellent.

After leaving New York, till the 4th of October, we headed southeast. On that day we struck the trade winds, and bore S. S. E. ; being, according to our observations, in latitude 17° 43'^ and longitude 22° 39'^

On the 5th, in the morning, we came in sight of the Cape-Verd islands, bearing W. N. W., and distant about eight or nine miles, having the coast of Africa to the K S. E. We should have been very glad to touch at these islands to take in water ; but as our vessel was an American bottom, and had on board a number of British subjects, our captain did not think fit to expose himself to meet the English ships-of-war cruising on these coasts, who certainly would not have failed to make a strict search, and to take from us the best part of our crew ; which would infallibly have proved disastrous to the object for which we had shipped them.