My consulate in Samoa; a record of four years' sojourn in the Navigators Islands

Front matter

PRINCETON, N. J.

TI) 2)2 Division hed et <4 >). f~ {

Number

Chapter IV

Description of Group—Savaii— Mountain Streams—Food-trees—Productions—White 'Traders—Beachcombers— Having a Baby—Savaii Squires—Monkey Jack—Upolu —Daybreak from the Lagoon—Harbours—Tutuila— Leone—Roman Catholic Church—London Mission Premises — Blow-holes — Massacre Bay — Manua-a Group— The King of Manua-a— Manono and Apolima - - - : : - 26—43 vi CONTENTS.

CHAPTER V. i

Trip on the Western Road—Asaga—Public Works—Old Fort of Tamuafa—Vaitele—Malietoa’s Forts—Destruction at War-time—Political Town Alliances—Agreeing to Differ—First Experience of Kava-drinking—Kava : its Introduction to Samoa—Chewing the Kava—A Drinker’s Inside—Unrequited Attention — Ceremony of Presentation —Beachcomber’s Improvement on Native Style : : : - - 44—59

Chapter VI

Visit from Malietoa’s Chief Adviser—Business before | Politics—Benevolent Tekori—A quid pro quo in Ambush— Kine wishes an Interview—Seat of Government—Building, a Sign of Peace—A Heathen Star— Samoan Parliament— Introduction to Royalty— Malietoa le Tupu o Samoa—His Men—Kava and Smoke—A Samoan ‘Pooh Bah’—No Money—No Taxes *= - : - - - 60—69

Chapter VII

Municipality of Apia—Rowdy Half-castes—Municipal Convention—Magistrate—Native Ideas of Municipality —Police Incidents—Attempted German Autocracy— One-sided Disqualification — Factious Opposition — Restrictions on Liquor—Munitions of War—Hell of the Pacific reformed—White Agitators—Those Tyrant Consuls — Board Members— Indignation Meeting — Hunting up the Demagogues—Pernicious Visitors— New Zealand and Samoan Information - - 0S

Meeting with Malietoa—Lauati the Talking Man—I am considered Native Property—Tuiatafu on my Objections—Samoan Oratorical Perseverance—A ‘Tongafiti —German Official Recognition of Malietoa—Twenty-one Guns for the King—Mad after Two Years—Dulness of Life - - - - - - 127—1385

Chapter XIII

Sports—Club and Spear— Wrestling —Tiga-tia—Surtriding — Pig-hunting — Pigeon-catching— A Pigeon buys a whole Family—Sport in Earnest — Indoor Games—Introduction of Cricket—Becomes a Disease —German Objections —Cricket Processions — Two Hundred a Side—Political Cricket—Warlike Cricket —The Electric Cireus—Consuls at a Discount—Topsy-turvy Natives—Samoan Imitation—Chance for Salvation Army - - - - - 1386—151

Vili CONTENDS:

Fale o le Fe’ee—The Devil as Food—Pineapple Obstructions—Ferocious Mosquitoes—Ready-made-Board Tree —Musu-oe—Banyan, its Growth—Tongan Fort—Steep Descent—River Scenery—Philistine Judge—Awkward Travelling—The Hallowed Ground—Seeking the Oracle—Recovered Appetites—Wet Night—Return to

Apia “ i iB ee : - 173—I183

Chapter XVII

Succeed to Office—Mysterious Burglary—Smart Prisoner —Cat-o’-Nine-Tails —Support in Affliction — Theft-swearing—A very Precise Thief—Chinaman’s Dollars —Hanky-Panky Man—A Modern Cannibal—Making Use of a Friend—Never Cannibals—Queen’s Birthday —Flag-wagging—My Portrait Gallery—The German Boy—The Asteroid—Visit to Manono—Girl’s Deceitful

Trading - a a Re ‘ - 184—201

CON LENTS, ix

CHAPTER XYVIILI.

Corpus Christi Festival—Grand Ceremony—Why not All Roman Catholics ?—Feather-Worshippers—The Rival Lady Companies—Awkward Fix—Outrage at Magia —A Stubborn King—Diamond arrives with High Commissioner—Disposal of Fine—Murder of Labourer —Emblem of Civilization—Rehearsal & la Marwood— A Grisly Farce—Royal Ura Years on the Roads_~ - -— - - - 202—215

PAGE

Chapter XIX

Samoan Value of Words—Samoan Parliament—No Voting —Success to the Strongest—Samoan Incapacity for Self-covernment—No Benefit from Treaties—No Child of mine—Preference for Great Britain - - 216—222

CHAPTER XxX.

Start on a Cruise— Lovely Morning —Saluafata — House-decoration — Papalagi— Preparations for Siva —Samoan Band—Tiny Performers—Warriors at Work —The Pride of the District—Falifa Bay—Beautiful Cascade— White Coral Church—Mistake of a New Chum — Tell-tale Girls — Native Bigotry —Start for Home—Tinted Corals—Blue Lightning— Terrible Squall— Hurricane Sunday— Awful Wreckage — A Sight for an Insurance Oftice—Capricious Path of the Storm = - - - - - - 223—244

Chapter XXI

A Modern Pirate—Bully Hayes—Very like a Bishop— Steals a Barque and Cargo—A Coolie Spec—Bankok —A Trial Trip to Hong Kong—Diamond cut Diamond —Samoa—Tried and Acquitted—Strong’s Island— Bailed-up—Hayes hunts himself—Under Arrest— Crafty Mr. Pease—Manilla Courtesies—Elopes with Yacht and Wife—Fatal Difference with the Cook 245—255 x GON TE NS:

Chapter XXII

To Mulifanua—Aoba Boys’ Dance—Long Legs— Musical Instrument—War-dances—Resisting the Devil—Tapa Manufacture — Mallet Music —Samoan Music — Mat. Drum—The Syrenic Accordion—The Jew’s-harp, its. - Guile—Return to Apia—Sunday Lecture—Secrets of the Boudoir—Ladies Dressing—Horrible Hats—Male Attire = °- - . - - - 256—269

PAGE

Chapter XXIII

Murder again—Headless Girl—Tapitouean Sign-Manual —Trial—Suspensory Arrangement—Black-faced Police —Chief Justice shows Signs—Important Arrival—Interested Philanthropy—Five Hundred Dollars’ Worth —Those Consuls—Private Annexation—Colonial Misrepresentations—To Utimapu— Bulli-ma-cou—‘Solafanuas—New Britain Labour—Caroline Islanders 270—279

Chapter XXIV

Utumapu again—Regions Below—Light vy. Gloom—Fallclimbing—Razor-edge—Stone-heaving—Nineteen Hundred Feet of the Wrong Height—Terrible Travelling— Tropical Freezing—Eagle Mosquitoes—En route to the Silver Thread—Beautiful Bush—Banyan Trees—Head of the Silver Thread—Half-way Down Fix—Stinging Tree—Foot of the Silver Thread—Camp out ~- 280—297

Chapter XXV

Consul in Office—Liability to Insult—Rights of the Britisher—Piratical Visitor—Consuls under Review— Wild Female—British Fetishism—Arrogant Consul— Family Biography— Half-caste Quandary — Consular Mild Deceit— Beauty in Tears—Swimming on Shore —Mr. B. Brown—Wife-retrieving Bureau—A Rara Avis—Marriages in Samoa—Attempted Matrimony at Long Range - - - - - 298—309

CONTENTS. | f

Chapter XXVI

Roman Catholic Talolo—Brilliant Processions—Master of Ceremonies—Privileged Samoans—The Kava-chewine—Delicate Work—My Share of the Feast—Furious Cannonade—High Mass and Processions—Protection v. Free Trade—Cunning Councillor—Fish Robbery— Falelatai— Origin of Names of Islands — Woman’s Rights—Back to Apia - - - - 310—324

PAGE

Chapter XXVII

Savaii Squires—Sail for Savaii—View of the Island—- Monkey Jack—Two Sorts of Patriarchs—An Awful Liar—Spanish Mike—Bad Travelling—Heat in the Scrub—‘ Latomai’—Pala Pala—Sufferings of the Boys —Lalatele—Fagamalo—Return to Pala Pala—Awful Back-track—In the Bright Lagoon—Manono—The Lovely Salu—Offer of Marriage—Moonlight—Arrive Home - - - - - - 325—334

Chapter XXVIII

Bad News from Tutuila—Manuma v. Lei—Old Grudges —Title Names—Declaration of War—Malietoa and the Consuls—Arrival of H.M.S. Miranda—Distinguished Old Soldier—Reception Fono—Words upon India— Battles in Tutuila—Entrance to Pango—Fagotogo— Butcher’s Bill—Armed Natives—The Two Maugas on Board—Both Sides of a Big Gun—Very nearly a Fight on Quarter-deck—Return with Hostages - 335—346

Chapter XXIX

Troublesome Inquirers—Taupo Visitors—Kava— Duties of Taupos—Severe Boudoir Discipline—Taupos Political Valuables — Bread-fruit— Odoriferous Food— Bananas —Yam-growing—Taro—Pork a General Lever—Pig related to Man—Fat Pigeons—Fishing on Reef— ‘Peasoopo ’—Tinned Chinaman—Dog-eating—Samoan Cookery - - - - - - 347—358 xii CONTENTS:

Chapter XXX

The Maid of Matafangatele—‘ May’ Meeting—Use of Consulate—Picturesque Camping—The Tamaitai Dressing —Umbrella Tree—Missionary Gathering—Food Offerings—Fale-tele—Village Procession—Distribution of Food—Pretty Ceremony—Appearance of Consulate— Ornamented Orange Trees - - - 359—367

CHAPTER XXXL.

Faithless Faa-Piu—Burial Ceremony—Samoan Hades— Spirit Journeys—Unburied Spirits—Extra Pressure — Deputations — Extraordinary Performance for a Government—Samoan Diplomatic Cunning—One-sided Agreement—Another English Petition—Paltry Charges —Kidnapping a King—Weber again—Flag- Hoisting— Nice Picture for a Friendly Consulate—Pulling down the Samoan Flag again - - - - 368—382

Chapter XXXII

Convict Importation in the Pacific—Arrival of a Stranger —Speculation in a Smithy—A Pool of Blood—Double Murder—Watching his Eyes—Discovery of Plunder— German Difficulties again—Partial Confession—False Accusation— Murderer commits Suicide—A Récidiviste —Four Years’ Labour—Samoan Petition for my Stay — Official Leave-taking—Malietoa’s Farewell Banquet —Farewell Dinner at Apia - . - 383—389

CHAPTER XXXII.

Description of the Samoans—Disposition—White Intrigue —Adverse to Bloodshed—Respect for Property— Tattooing—Costume—Novel Use for the Union Jack— Outraged British Sentiment— Success of Trade — Women’s Dress—Headdress—Hair-dressing—Language —TFinal Remarks - - - - 390—403

CORRIGENDA.

Page 2, line 24, for ‘ Mahetoa’ read Malietoa. » 15, ,, 13, for ‘ Nukualota’ read Nukualofa. », 26, , 1, for ‘Navigation’ read Navigator. Pe ooy als, 19) for. Lotua. readTofua. Porat ey 13, jor: Kalita’ read Valifa. 3) 48; 5) 16, for ‘which. read and. » 46, ,, 16, for ‘more fun’ réad of fuss.

MELD, 0,707 * whirl” read whirr. », 122, ,, 29, for ‘ Lotofaga ’ read Lefaga. »» 154, 12, insert semicolon after ‘ principle.’

AUER eliminate (heading of chapter) ‘ Tropical Shower ’ and * Probable Volcano.’ », 198, ,, 20, for ‘ Leiatanas’ read Leiatana.

Pel Ee kes 19, for ‘their’ read this.

», 034, ,, 3, for‘ Leiatava’ read Leiatana.

», 036, ,, 14, for ‘Sula fale’ read Tula fale.

» 340, ,, 1, for ‘ Lavati’ read Lanti.

», 345, ,, 19, for ‘Thinking’ read Hinting.

In chap. xiii., p. 140, line 18, it is accidentally made to appear that in return for a pigeon the ‘sovereignty’ was given to the ‘family from which the present rebel king, Tamasese, is descended,’ whereas it was Tamasese’s family that was sold for a pigeon.

Churchward’s ‘ Samoa.’]

MY CONSULATE IN SAMOA.

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