My Consulate in Samoa. A record of four years' sojourn in the Navigators Islands, etc

Chapter I. Pace

Explanatory — Interview Avith the Governor of NeAv Zealand— Accredited to Samoa — Arrive in Auckland — Awful Tales of Samoa — Sydney, N. S.W.— The John Wesley — The Loafer Brigade — Unemployed in Botanical — Scene in Hyde Park ; 1—8

Chapter II

The John Wesley in Trading Trim — Heavy Weather — Off Port Stephens — Gale subsides — Ablutionary Difficulties—Mixed Nationalities — The Inevitable Deported One — Sunday Island — Arrive at Tongatabu — Leave for Samoa — Metis Rock — Arrive at Apia - - 9 — 16

Chapter III

Going into Harbour— Visitors on Board — Supercargo's Martyrdom — Call at British Consulate — VieAv of Apia — Roman Catholic Mission — Visit to Consuls — Opinions of Residents — Samoan Idea of the Franchise — Talking Men - - - - . ' - - 17—25

Chapter IV

Description of Group — Savaii — Mountain Streams — Food-trees — Productions — White Traders — Beachcombers — ■ Having a Baby — Savaii Squires — Monkey Jack — Upolu — Daybreak from the Lagoon — Harbours — Tutuila — Leone — Roman Catholic Church — London Mission Premises — Blow-holes — Massacre Bay — Manua-a Group — The King of Manua-a — Manono and Apolima - - - - - 26—43 CONTENTS. VI

Chapter V. Fagl

Trip on the Western Road— Asaga — Public Works — Old Fort of TamuafTi — Vaitele — Malietoa's Forts — Destruction at War-time — Political Town Alliances — Agreeing to Differ — First Experience of Kava-drinking — Kava : its Introduction to Samoa — Chewing the Kava — A Drinker's Inside — Unrequited Attention — Ceremony of Presentation — Beachcomber's Improvement on Native Style - - - - - 44—59

Chapter VI

Visit from Malietoa's Chief Adviser — Business before Politics — Benevolent Tekori — A quid pro quo in Ambush — King Avishes an Interview — Seat of Government — Building, a Sign of Peace — A Heathen Star — ■ Samoan Parliament — Introduction to Royalty — Malietoa le Tupu o Samoa — His Men — Kava and Smoke — A Samoan 'Pooh Bah' — No Money — No Taxes ------ 60—69

Chapter VII

Municipality of Apia — Rowdy Half-castes — Municipal Convention — Magistrate — Native Ideas of Municipality — Police Incidents — Attempted German Autocracy — One-sided Disqualification — - Factious Opposition — Restrictions on Liquor — Munitions of War — Hell of the Pacific reformed — White Agitators — Those Tyrant Consuls — Board Members — Indignation Meetings — Hunting up the Demagogues — Pernicious Visitors — New Zealand and Samoan Information - - 70 — 79

Chapter VIII

Malua College — London Mission Students — Truculent Pastors — Clerical Court — Johnny Upolu : his Case — Samoa annexes the Ellice Group — Stop at Saliemoa — Beautiful Coasting — Arrive at Falelatai — Palolo — Bathing Embarrassments — Unnecessary Apology SO — CONTENTS. VII PAGE 102 112 126 135 151

Chapter IX

A Row in the Dark— Canoe Company— No Palolo— Extempore Regatta— Omahs— Nearly Capsized— Goodbj-e for the Time — Remarks on Receptions — Advisership again— Consult the Consuls— Talolos - 90-

Chapter X

Good Work for a Philanthropist — Official Botheration — Pressing a Princess — Start Across the Island — Bush Track — Monkeydom — Ready-made Board-tree — Tongan Traces— Malietoa — Difficult Descent — Pigeons' Playground — Arrive at Lotofaga, - - - 103-

CHAPTER XL

Beautiful Lagoon — Community of Property — Begging — Political ditto— Effect of Sun upon Scenery — Tipping — On the Track — Ambassador to America — Arrive at Falelatai — Palolo again — Return to Apia - 113—

Chapter XII

Meeting with Malietoa — Lauati the Talking Man — I am considered Native Property — Tuiatafu on my Objections — Samoan Oratorical Perseverance — A Tongafiti — German Official Recognition of Malietoa — Twenty-one Guns for the King — Mad after Two Years — Dulness of Life *----.. 127-

Chapter XIII

Sports — Club and Spear — Wrestling — Tiga-tia — Surf-riding — Pig - hunting — Pigeon - catching — A Pigeon buys a whole Family — Sport in Earnest — Indoor Games — Introduction of Cricket — Becomes a Disease — German Objections — ■ Cricket Processions — Two Hundred a Side — Political Cricket — Warlike Cricket — The Electric Circus — Consuls at a Discount — Topsy-turvy Natives — Samoan Imitation — Chance for Salvation Army - 136— CONTENTS. VIII PAGE 162 172 183 201

Chapter XIV

High Commissioner's Court — Limited National Authority ■ — British severely Handicapped — Irresponsible Nationality — Armed Return Labour — Consular Case — Scullery Fight — Britannia's Care for her far-off Daughter — Consular Arbitration — Convenient Witness — The Sliding Rock — Yankee Man -of- War's Men on Shore — A Restaurant - 152 —

Chapter XV

Rumours of War — Native Signs — Indication by Visitors — Old-hand Prophecies — A Well-informed Man — Signs of Peace — House-construction — Trades Unionism — Stone House — Building Material — Primitive Man — Dragging the Log — Lady Thatchers — A Nailless House — Threatened Bread Famine — Left in Charge - 163 —

Chapter XVI

Fale o le Fe'e — The Devil as Food — Pineapple Obstructions — Ferocious Mosquitoes — Ready-made-Board Tree — Musu-oe — Banyan, its GroAvth — Tongan Fort — Steep Descent — River Scenery — Philistine Judge — AAvkward Travelling — The Hallowed Ground — Seeking the Oracle — Recovered Appetites — Wet Night — Return to Apia ------ 173_

Chapter XVII

Succeed to Office — Mysterious Burglary — Smart Prisoner — Cat-o' - Nine - Tails — Support in Affliction — Theft- SAvearing — A very Precise Thief — Chinaman's Dollars — Hanky-Panky Man — A Modern Cannibal — Making Use of a Friend — Never Cannibals — Queen's Birthday — Flag-wagging — My Portrait Gallery — The German Boy — The Asteroid — Visit to Manono — Girl's Deceitful Trading ------ 184- CONTENTS. IX PAGE 215 ■222 244 -255

Chapter XVIII

Corpus Christi Festival— Grand Ceremony — Why not All Roman Catholics ? — Feather- Worshippers — The Rival Lady Companies — Awkward Fix — Outrage at Magia — A Stubborn Kinej — Diamond arrives Avith Hish Commissioner — Disposal of Fine — Murder of Labourer — Emblem of Civilization — Rehearsal a la Marwood — A Grisly Farce — Royal Prerogative — Ten Years on the Roads ------ 202—

Chapter XIX

Samoan Value of Words — Samoan Parliament — No Voting — Success to the Strongest — Samoan Incapacity for Self-government — No Benefit from Treaties — No Child of mine — Preference for Great Britain - - 216 — !

Chapter XX

Start on a Cruise — Lovely Morning — Saluafata — House-decoration — Papalagi — Preparations for Siva — Samoan Band — Tiny Performers — Warriors at Work — The Pride of the District — Falifa Bay — Beautiful Cascade — White Coral Church — Mistake of a NeAv Chum — Tell-tale Girls — Native Bigotry — -Start for Home — Tinted Corals — Blue Lightning — Terrible Squall — Hurricane Sunday — -AAvful Wreckage — A Sight for an Insurance Office — Capricious Path of the Storm ------ 223—:

Chapter XXI

A Modern Pirate — Bully Hayes — Very like a Bishop — Steals a Barque and Cargo — A Coolie Spec — Bankok — A Trial Trip to Hong Kong — Diamond cut Diamond — Samoa — Tried and Acquitted — Strong's Island — Bailed-up — Hayes hunts himself— Under Arrest — Crafty Mr. Pease — Manilla Courtesies — Elopes with Yacht and Wife — Fatal Difference Avith the Cook 245 — ! CONTENTS. X PAGE 269 279 297 309

Chapter XXII

To Mulifanua — Aoba Boys' Dance — Long Legs— Musical Instrument — War-dances — Resisting the Devil — Tapa Manufacture — Mallet Music — Samoan Music — Mat Drum — The Sj-renic Accordion — The Jew's-harp, its Guile — Return to Apia — Sunday Lecture — Secrets of the Boudoir — Ladies Dressing — Horrible Hats — Male Attire ------ 256—:

Chapter XXIII

Murder again— Headless Girl — Tapitouean Sign-Manual — Trial — Suspensory Arrangement — Black-faced Police — Chief Justice shows Signs — Important Arrival — Interested Philanthropy — Five Hundred Dollars' Worth — Those Consuls — Private Annexation — Colonial Misrepresentations — To Utimapu — Bulli-ma-cou — Solafanuas — New Britain Labour — Caroline Islanders 270 — !

Chapter XXIV

Utumapu again — Regions Below — Light v. Gloom — Fallclimbing — Razor-edge — Stone-heaving — Nineteen Hundred Feet of the Wrong Height — -Terrible Travelling — Tropical Freezing — Eagle Mosquitoes — En route to the Silver Thread — Beautiful Bush — Banyan Trees — Head of the Silver Thread — Half-way Down Fix — Stinging Tree — Foot of the Silver Thread — Camp out - 280 —

Chapter XXV

Consul in Office — Liability to Insult — Rights of the Britisher — Piratical Visitor — Consuls under Review — Wild Female — British Fetishism — Arrogant Consul — Family Biography — Half-caste Quandary — Consular Mild Deceit — Beauty in Tears — Swimming on Shore — Mr. B. Brown — Wife-retrieving Bureau — A Rara Avis — Marriages in Samoa — Attempted Matrimony at Long Range - - - - -298— CONTENTS. XI PAGE 324 334 346 ■358

Chapter XXVI

Roman Catholic Talolo — Brilliant Processions — Master of Ceremonies — Privileged Samoans — The Kava-chewing — Delicate Work— My Share of the Feast — Furious Cannonade — High Mass and Processions — Protection v. Free Trade — Cunning Councillor — Fish Robbery — Falelatai — Origin of Names of Islands — Woman's Rights— Back to Apia ... - 310—:

Chapter XXVII

Savaii Squires — Sail for Savaii— View of the Island — Monkey Jack — Two Sorts of Patriarchs — An Awful Liar — Spanish Mike — Bad TraArelling — Heat in the Scrub — 'Latomai' — Pala Pala — Sufferings of the Boys — Lalatele — Fagamalo — Return to Pala Pala — Awful Back-track — In the Bright Lagoon — Manono — The Lovely Salu — Offer of Marriage— Moonlight — Arrive Home ------ 325-

Chapter XXVIII

Bad NeAvs from Tutuila — Manuma v. Lei — Old Grudges — Title Names — Declaration of War — Malietoa and the Consuls — Arrival of H.M.S. Miranda — Distinguished Old Soldier — Reception Fono — Words upon India — ■ Battles in Tutuila — Entrance to Pango — Fagotogo — Butcher's Bill — Armed Natives — The Two Maugas on Board — Both Sides of a Big Gun — Very nearly a Fight on Quarter-deck — Return Avith Hostages - 335—

Chapter XXIX

Troublesome Inquirers — Taupo Visitors — Kava — Duties of Taupos — Severe Boudoir Discipline — Taup5s Political Valuables — Bread-fruit — Odoriferous Food — Bananas — Yam-growing — Taro — Pork a General Lever — Pig related to Man — Fat Pigeons — Fishing on Reef — ' Peasoopo ' — Tinned Chinaman — Dog-eating — Samoan Cookery ------ 347— CONTENTS. XII PAGE 367 382 ■389 403

Chapter XXX

The Maid of Matafangatele — ' May ' Meeting — Use of Consulate — Picturesque Camping — The Tamaitai Dressing — Umbrella Tree — Missionary Gathering — Food Offerings — Fale - tele — Village Procession — Distribution of Food — Pretty Ceremony — Appearance of Consulate — Ornamented Orange Trees ... 359 —

Chapter XXXI

Faithless Faa-Piu — Burial Ceremony — Samoan Hades — Spirit Journeys — Unburied Spirits — Extra Pressure — Deputations — Extraordinary Performance for a Government — Samoan Diplomatic Cunning — One-sided Agreement — Another English Petition — Paltry Charges — Kidnapping a King — Weber again — Flag-Hoisting — Nice Picture for a Friendly Consulate — Pulling down the Samoan Flag again - 368—

Chapter XXXII

Convict Importation in the Pacific — Arrival of a Stranger — Speculation in a Smithy — A Pool of Blood — Double Murder — Watching his Eyes — Discovery of Plunder — German Difficulties again — Partial Confession — False Accusation — Murderer commits Suicide — A Re'cidiviste — Four Years' Labour — Samoan. Petition for my Stay — Official Leave-taking — Malietoa's Farewell Banquet — Farewell Dinner at Apia - - - 383—

Chapter XXXIII

Description of the Samoans — Disposition — White Intrigue — -Adverse to Bloodshed — Respect for Property — Tattooing — Costume — Novel Use for the Union Jack — Outraged British Sentiment — Success of Trade — Women's Dress — Headdress — Hair-dressing — Language — Final Remarks - 390— CORRIGENDA. Page 2, line 24, for ' Mahetoa ' read Malietoa. ,, 15, ,, 1 3, for ' Nukualofa ' read Nukualofa. ,, 26, ,, 1, for ' Navigation' read Navigator. „ 33, ,, 19, /or 'Totua' reaei Tofua. ,, 34, ,, 13, for Talita ' read Falifa. ,, 43, ,, 16, for ' which ' read and. ,, 46, ,, 16, for ' more fun ' read of fuss. ,, 115, ,, 5, for ' whirl ' read whirr. ,, 122, ,, 29, for ' Lotofaga ' read Lefaga. „ 154, ,, 12, insert semiceelon after ' principle.' ,, 163, eliminate (heading of chapter) ' Tropical Shower ' and * Probable Volcano.' ,, 198, ,, 20, for ' Leiatanas ' read Leiatana. ,, 211, „ 19, for ' their ' read this. ,, 334, ,, 3, for 'Leiatava' read Leiatana. ,,336, „ 14, for 'Sula sale' read Tula fale. ,, 340, ,, 1, for 'La vati ' read Lanti. ,, 345, ,, 19,/or ' Thinking ' read Hinting.

In chap, xiii., p. 140, line 18, it is accidentally made to appear that in return for a pigeon the ' sovereignty ' was given to the ' family from which the present rebel king, Tamasese, is descended,' whereas it was Tamasese's family that was sold for a pigeon. Ckurckieard's ' Samoa.']

Chapter I

Explanatory — Interview Avith the Governor of New Zealand — Accredited to Samoa — Arrive in Auckland — Awful Tales of Samoa — Sydney, N.S.W. — The John Wesley — -The Loafer Brigade — Unemployed in Botanical — Scene in Hyde Park. At the outset of my narrative, I Avish it to be understood that it Avas not intended as a personal biography, but only as an account of my four years' official life amongst the Samoans, which I thought might prove acceptable to my friends at home. I did not even contemplate putting these recollections into print until I perceived the public attention Samoa had attracted Avithin the last tAvo years, and the mis statements made and inaccurate descriptions given with reference to its social and political condition. Seeing that the subject was one of increasing interest and importance, especially in connection Avith the progress Avhich it is understood is iioav being made Avith the Panama Canal, I determined to collate my notes, and, Avith the assistance of my diary of events, giA-e to the public my record of actual ex perience amongst the Samoans.

Should I succeed in draAving sympathetic regard to this amiable and intelligent people, I shall be amply rewarded for my pains. Although the first tAvo chapters do not treat of subjects actually Samoan, yet I trust their introduction Avill be excused on account of the story they tell being inseparable from my AA-hole' experience. I arrived at my first notion of going to Samoa after an interview at Wellington, XeAv Zealand, AA'ith Sir A. Gordon, then GoA-ernor of XeAv Zealand, also Consul - General and High Commissioner for the Western Pacific, Avith A\-hom I had been in corre spondence with the A-ieAV of obtaining some GoA-ernment employment. His Excellency informed me, at our meeting, that the only billet he had in A-ieAv AA-as that of Dejmty-Commissioner at the New Hebrides ; but the appointment Avas as yet only in contempla tion, and he could give me no idea hoAV long I should haA*e to AA-ait before a decision Avould be arrived at.

At the same time, he said that if I desired immediate employment, he Avould recommend me for the position of AdA-iser and Chief Secretary to King Mahetoa of Samoa, He had been requested by the Samoans, A\rhen on a visit to them, to send some reliable man to act as their adviser in forming a proper GoA-ernment. His Excellency offered me the post on its merits, which Avere small, it being, as he said, held at the caprice of semi-savages, Avith no guarantee or even mention of emolument. I shall not readily forget the NOT A TEMPTING OFFER. 3 significant manner in which Sir Arthur closed the conA-ersation on the secretaryship. It AA-as thus : ' In taking over this duty, I must tell you that you will be in a position to do an immense deal of good ' A long pause ensued here, and, thinking the intervieAV was finished, I was about to reply, when he added, in a severe tone, ' and a great deal of harm !' I did not quite like the prospect laid before me, but, being assured by his Excellency that Avhen the Consul at Samoa went on leave, for Avhich he had already applied, I could take over the vacant office with his approval, I accepted the mission.

I Avas forced to find my own way to the islands as best I could ; so, on receiving my credentials, I took the first steamer for Auckland, in search of a ship. There I could hear of nothing going to Samoa, so I determined to go on to Sydney, New South Wales, in search of the means for continuing* my travels. Whilst wandering about making inquiries, I heard the most awful tales of my land of promise, being told on every hand that life there was one continued orgie, and decency very much at a discount. To be tho roughly respected there, it seemed that one must oppose the Consuls in all their efforts to establish laAV and order, and that no Britisher Avas worth his salt who did not of stringent necessity defy the High Commissioner and devote to perdition the Deputy and all his works. All this was so pleasant to hear that I did not think it advisable to disclose my identity, nor the errand I was bent upon, but had serious thoughts of 1—2 casting about for some more happily reported country to pass a year or two in, rather than proceeding to a place which some undoubtedly respectable people informed me Avas the headquarters of all the bad characters of the Pacific who could scrape up dollars enough to get a passage, and AA'hose ranks had been lately reinforced largely by hordes of scamps from Fiji.

The 19th of July, 1881, again found me on board shi]i en route to Sydney, seeking a chance to get to my destination, Avhich Avas soon found in a smart looking brig, the John Wesley, formerly, as will be suggested by the name, in the Wesleyan Mission service, but now the favourite trader in the South Seas. The vessel not sailing for a fortnight, I was of necessity reduced to loafing about the toAvn and suburbs, a by no means enjoyable occupation, and a forced amusement in which I very soon discovered I had many companions. I may say, Avithout fear of contradiction, that in their varied ranks could be found representatives of every known profession under the sun, ministers and army men galore, backed up by a large phalanx of gentlemen of no occupation, and sad to say, in some cases, of less principle.

It must not be supposed that this army of martyrs is composed entirely of recruits from the Old Country, for there are to be found many unlucky ones from the adjacent colonies, not to mention a fair sprinkling of enforced or voluntary idlers from the place itself. Although this very plump brigade of impecunious and unemployed Avas visibly strong in numbers, yet I was WAITERS ON PROVIDENCE. 5 assured that I only saw it in a most attenuated condition, in fact a mere skeleton of its ordinary self. This Avas owing to a great many of the rank and file being employed temporarily by the New South Wales Government in the census-taking for the Colony. The headquarters of these gentlemen in the evening is at the Cafe Frangais, in George Street, AA-here, hoAvever dismal may be their prospects, brooding over them is never indulged in.

Many of them are men of good family, most of them have respectable connections, and a very decent proportion are knoAvn to possess professional or mental talent. They inA-ariably appear to be in good spirits, are Avell dressed, and don't seem to have any coin. A great many of them sing the old hackneyed ' waiting for remittance ' song, and all say they are on the look-out for some appointment. Noav and then one will tell you in confidence what he expects to get next Aveek through the instrumentality of Mr. Blank, M.L.C., C.M.G., etc. But, alas ! the wished-for never conies, for in the Colonies there is a poor chance of anyone Avho has not some relation or friend in the Government ring ever drawing colonial pay. Jobbery and nepotism carry off all the plums ; an outsider stands no chance Avhatever.

Nor are the colonists to be blamed for reserving all benefices for their own people. They are increasing in numbers in the most rapid manner, and soon there will be the same question as exists at home of A\-hat to do Avith the younger sons, Avho iioav are, as a rule, equally AA-ell educated and capable of supplying the demand for qualified candidates for all the Civil Service billets. A most interesting study of another class of unemployed, the serious, may-be-despondent class, is to be found by anyone paying a morning visit to the Botanical Gardens, a practice of mine to help kill the time before lunch. Standing apart on the rising ground, and casting an eye over the many seats and benches within view, it will generally be seen that they are all occupied ; and Avhat makes it strange, is that a seat is very rarely occupied by more than one person.

There is no attempt at sociability, but very much the other Avay. A pair may be seated on the same small bench, but there they will sit moodily, with as much of their backs towards one another as it is possible to present when seated facing in the same direction. All seem to be deeply plunged in thought of the most serious nature, and each no doubt is resolved into a personal internal committee of ways and means, Avithout being able to solve the knotty question of Iioav to provide the necessary sinews of Avar Avith which to fight the battle for independent existence. Every noAv and then one will start up and Avalk a few paces, but neA*-er far, and will either return to his old seat, or sink doAvn in a listless fashion on the nearest one. About mid-day the Gardens become too thronged for these loungers to indulge further, privately, in their woes, so they one by one gradually fade aAvay, goodness only knoAVs Avhere to, and do not reappear until the next morning, Avhich is passed in a precisely HYDE PARK AT THE ANTIPODES. 7 similar manner.

Poor felloAvs ! I suppose that the early afternoon company, consisting chiefly of nurse maids and children, with their joyous shouts, laughter, and gambols, but poorly chime in Avith their own heaA-y cogitations. Another equally interesting experience, but with reference to a lower class of life, is to be found in Hyde Park, Sydney. Here, hoAvever, it will be seen that there is little or no struggle to keep up appearances, nor is there so great a disposition to brood over misery in solitude. The descent, if there is one, from the Botanical Gardens level is accepted as un fait accompli, and the struggle is over ; while the ordinary street loafer, Avhose class greatly preponderates in this locality, has perhaps never knoAvn any other method of passing his almost worthless life than lolling about and begging, no doubt varied Avith periodical retirements to the gaol.

As in the Gardens, every seat Avill be seen occupied ; if by only one, he Avill most likely be stretched out at full length upon it ; but generally there will be three or four on the same bench. Judging from the personal appearance of these Hyde Park tenants, inquiry Avould elicit that they had passed the night there 'sub Jove frigida,' so far as such a thing is possible in this climate. Scattered by tAvos, threes or more, or singly, Avill be seen at times more than a hundred men, women and children, who, from the want of a better resting-place, or perhaps from choice, have camped there the whole previous night. Some, hoAvever, are most certainly not there for want of money, as occasionally a single man, or perhaps a group, Avill rise and sluggishly move off to the nearest grog-shop, where having refreshed themselATes, they Avill slope back again to their favourite spot, and swinishly take another forty winks or so.

Here these people stay from day to day, and apparently from Aveek to Aveek — for there always seems to be the same number about. How they liA-e is a mystery to most people, for they never appeal' to do anything but loll about on the grass ; and when tired of lying on their backs, seek grateful relief in turning over on their faces. It Avas quite a month before I Avas enabled, by the John Wesley being declared ready for sea, to bid adieu to ' our harbour,' and take my joyful discharge from the noble army of loafers I had unwillingly made one of for so long.

Chapter II

The John Wesley in Trading Trim — Heavy Weather — Off Port Stephens — Gale subsides — Ablutionary Difficulties — ■ Mixed Nationalities — The Ine\-itable Deported One — Sunday Island — Arrive at Tongatabu — Leave for Samoa — Metis Rock — Arrive at Apia. When I first inspected the John Wesley, I inA\-ardly congratulated myself upon my luck in having dropped upon so smart a vessel, affording every promise of a most comfortable trip to Samoa. All that was Avanted Avas fine Aveather, and that secured, nothing more could be Avished for — bar, perhaps, that she Avere a steamer. Alas for the sight that met my eyes on joining ! Where Avas the spacious poop-deck, Avhite as snow, Avith all its metal fittings shining brightly in the morning sun, on Avhich I had pictured myself pacing in the most approved nautical manner be tAveen the periods apportioned for sleeping and eating?

All Avas changed now, and most distinctly for the worse. She Avas filled from stem to stern Avith lumber — timber for Tonga — main-deck and poop. On the latter it was piled up as high as the Avooden part of the buhvarks, leaving but a small space clear in front of the companion, and just room enough for the man at the wheel. These two spaces, with the gratings on both sides of the steering-gear, were the only portions of the ship's deck to be seen. Of course the whole of the top of the timber pile was available, but this sort of perch Avas by no means inviting. The main-deck Avas very much worse for travelling upon, being full of spars, planks, and casks of all descriptions, in the stowing of which security Avas more studied than comfort. I did not like the sight at all, and nasty thoughts concerning deck cargoes and overloading Avould keep cropping up, and unpleasant conjectures as to Iioav the ship would behave in a sea-Avay Avith all that top-hamper.

HoAvever, it was no use thinking about it ; I had gone so far, and must go the remainder. In the saloon things Avere just as badly croAvded. When I last saw it, there appeared right aft a spacious semicircular transom sofa, handsomely up holstered, giving one the pleasant idea of many an afternoon's forty Avinks, or comfortable lounges Avith an interesting book ; but, oh dear ! the chance of such luxuries had been sadly interfered Avith since then. The Avhole of the stern portion had been cut off by a rough wooden grating, behind which was piled up in the most inextricable confusion such a cargo of ' notions ' as I never saAV before, and most probably will never see again. There were chairs, sofas, toys, boot-boxes, hat-boxes, soap, cutlery, millinery, and velocipedes, in a most glorious general mix, on order for the frivolous whites of the Pacific.

No Yankee-notion ship ever had a more varied NOT IN THE LAP OF LUXURY. 11 cargo than we carried. There Avas no place in Avhich anything extra could be fastened that was not made available for the purpose, to the utter discom fort of individuals wanting to move about. Even under the table was lashed a full-length i*oav of biscuit-tins, which most effectively destroyed any sort of comfort that one might have had Avhen sitting there ; for they were so cleverly placed that if one Avas not particularly careful in depositing one's legs beneath the mahogany, cuticular abrasion was sure to ensue. This preliminary survey Avas indeed very disgust ing, and the departure of the ship being put off until early the next morning, I went on shore again, returning to my floating museum the same evening. The next morning our troubles began.

No sooner Avere Ave outside the heads than a gale sprang up, and before night a heavy sea Avas running, Avhich, with all our umvieldy deck-load, caused the ship to labour heavily. The force of the Avind increased gradually, though surely, during the night, until in the morning it was blowing fearfully strong, and the sea running mountains high. Battened doAvn beloAv, the situation AA-as something awful, everything in a frightful state of confusion, thrown about anyhoAv and anyAvhere, the state of affairs in general being rather too serious outside to alloAV interior disarrangements to be much noticed. We could not show a rag more than a small portion of the spanker, just to keep the ship's head up to the seas continually breaking over us. About three o'clock in the morning an enormous Avave broke right on board over the taffrail, carried away one of the boats, and, to make our condition worse, burst through the skvTliesht and flooded the Avhole O d O cabin ; which in one way, hoAvever, was a blessing, for it ga\-e us Avhat Avas badly AA-anted — a little ventilation.