Mexico under Maximilian

Front matter

MEXICO

UNDER

In 1 Vol. Price 7s. 6d. (Second Edition).

Dedication

(By Permission.)

TO HIS SERENE HIGHNESS THE PEINCE OF TECK, G.C.B.

Sir,

Chapter I

It was on new year's day of the year 1865, that I and my wife embarked on board the steamer '^ Sierra Nevada," at San Francisco^ bound for the Mexican ports on the Pacific. We had arrived at San Francisco a week or two before, after a series of wanderings in the United States, and British North American possessions, and the rest at " The Occidental Hotel," at San Francisco, which is, by the way, one of the most comfortable in America, was very acceptable after so much travelling, and a couple of weeks were very agreeably spent in seeing the sights of the place. Among the latter may be noticed the two " seal-rocks," as they are called, situated on the sea coast, within a pleasant drive of the city.

They are each about an acre in extent, forming two small islands half-a-mile from the mainland, and are completely covered with huge sea lions, whose heads and legs resemble those of the seal, but with bodies more like enormous oxen, covered with long hair of a yellowish-brown colour. They attain an immense size, one having been captured some years since which weighed over two tons. The noise which they make all day long, with their perpetual bark or roar is fearful ; but their constant gambols, both on the rocks and in the water, are very amusing. Their dominion is shared by myriads of pelicans and other sea fowl, but each party, as if by common consent, keeps scrupulously to its own portion of the rock. There is an excellent hotel exactly opposite, on the mainland, on the verandah of which, with a spy-glass in your hand, and a mint julep by your side, a beverage for which the house is justly celebrated, a very pleasant and amusing hour may be spent.

The country round San Francisco is barren and arid in the extreme, consisting of a succession of small sand hills ; but the islands in the bay teem

MEXICO UNDER MAXIMILIAIT. 3

with luxuriant vegetation, supplying tlie city and its environs with the finest fruit and vegetables in the world, while the district on the banks of the Sacramento river is one continuous garden.

On the breakfast table in San Francisco, may be seen, all the year round, a profusion of melons, pines, apples, pears, oranges, grapes, &c., the latter costing something less than threepence English per pound, while the apples, which can be had almost for nothing, often weigh upwards of two pounds each.

The streets of the city are broad and clean, a great portion of which, including the footpaths, are laid with wooden planks. The churches, theatres, and other public buildings, are very good, and the shops in the main street might vie with those in our leading thoroughfares in London. The " Montgomery Block," which consists of shops, &c., and is built entirely of white marble, is the largest entire block of buildings in the United States.

It was then, rather reluctantly, that we bid farewell to this wonderful city of only twenty-five years' growth, and with all our belongings,

B 2 took up our quarters on board the steamer " Sierra Nevada," which was the first ship to start, of a new line, that had just been formed to run along the Mexican coast, calling at all intermediate ports for cotton, and connecting with the Pacific Mail Co.'s ships at Acapulco, where the freights were to be transferred to the latter, and forwarded to Europe via the Isthmus of Panama. At twelve o'clock the bell rang for all who were not passengers to leave the ship, and a few minutes more saw us steaming out of the beautiful bay, which forms the harbour of San Francisco — past the " Golden Gate,'' and leaving the '^ Golden City " with all its pleasant attractions fast disappearing in the distance. Our fellow-passengers consisted chiefly of secondrate Americans, emigrating to Mexico, and a few Juarist refugees who had lately received a par-' don from the Emperor Maximilian, and were returning to the city of Mexico, to take the oath of allegiance. By ^' Juarist refugees" I mean people who formerly belonged to the Republican, or as it was called. Liberal Government of Mexico, of which Juarez was president, before the arrival of the Emperor in the country, and who had offered an armed resistance to the Imperial and French troops, and being finally defeated, and dispersed, were compelled to fly the country.

The Emperor Maximilian had been invited to Mexico by the vote of the representatives of the people, which vote was carried by the Conservative or Church party, nicknamed the " Mochos," who had always been at deadly feud with the Liberals. We were accompanied by a friend, who was, like myself, a retired officer of Her Majesty's service — our mutual object in going to ^ Mexico being to offer our services to the Emperor. Among the Mexicans on board was General Cortes and his staff, the former having been lately very much feted in Washington, where the whole of the American General Grant's Army had been passed in review for his especial edification, and as our destinations were the same, I was anxious to cultivate his acquaintance, but my very limited knowledge at that time of Spanish, and his of English or French, made ' it rather difficult.

Nothing worthy of notice occurred for the first few days of our voyage. We kept generally within sight of the coast, the weather being fine, and the heat daily increasing as we went southward. On the fourth day, we entered a little bay, at the end of which was situated a solitary "rancho'' or farm-house, occupied by an old Californian, who had lived there, I was told, for twenty-five years, without ever leaving his domain. I believe our only business there was to deliver to him sundry boxes of liquor, and to receive in return a quantity of cotton, and after a couple of hours had been thus occupied we continued our course amidst a chorus of " Vaya Ustedes con Dios " — ^^ Go and God speed you," from his numerous Mexican dependents.

On turning the angle of the bay a sight met our view, the beauty of which quite baffles description. We were in deep water, though close to the shore, which was bounded by high projecting rocks of a whitish grey colour, and of the most grotesque formations, the bases of which were intersected by every variety in form and size of caverns, arches, &c., presenting the appearance of a monster grotto, while from the

MEXICO UNDER MAXIMILIAN. V

extreme placidity of the water one could scarcely imagine, but for the help of the old proverb, " continual dropping weareth away a stone," how such beautiful ravages had been efiected. The water was so clear that though of an immense depth the bottom could be plainly discerned, and to add to the novelty of the scene, the surface of it was literally covered with every variety of sea fowl, undaunted by our presence, and sailing about in majestic security, from the large, sleepy looking pelican, with its enormous bill and huge pouch hanging beneath, to the little active diver, which seemed to possess the power of being in half a dozen different spots at the same time. For several hours, as we steamed along at half speed close to the shore, this delightful prospect continued, until we were obliged to alter our course and stand out to sea, to avoid a large promontory discernible in the distance.

Our voyage continued without further incident until we reached Mazatlan, only varied by the increasing heat, and our proximity, or otherwise, to the coast, which assumed gradually a more barren and volcanic appearance. I subsequently learnt, the whole country shows, at different points, evident traces of volcanic action, to say nothing of the nnmher of extinct craters constantly met with.

On reaching Mazatlan we found a squadron of French ships of war anchored at the mouth of the harbour, a small bay almost completely land locked, the entrance to which is very narrow, the whole resembling somewhat that of Balaklava. Having anchored, the majority of us prepared to go on shore, in one of the numerous Mexican boats in attendance, as the captain informed us that the ship would remain there till the following day.

The boat landed us at a tolerable jetty, from which, through a dirty suburb, ^ye minutes' walk brought us to the town, and then to the principal hotel, an old fashioned and rather dirty establishment, kept by a French-Californian lady, who had a big, lazy Mexican for her lord and master. Here we breakfasted off mutton chops, which had a strong flavour of goat, a meagre chicken, and the everlasting national Mexican dish " frijoles," or black beans, first boiled.

afterwards fried in lard, and seasoned with garlic and other condiments; after which we sallied forth to see the town. Being at the time in a state of siege it presented rather a dull and forlorn appearance; but the streets were broad and clean, and the houses substantial and handsome for a Mexican town, showing evident traces of their first owners, the Spaniards ; indeed, a large number of the principal merchants and shopkeepers of the place belong still to that race. A very short walk brought us to the line of fortifications that had been hastily thrown up for the defence of the place against the Liberal troops, who, to the number of five thousand men, were investing it from the land side.

The defences consisted of a hastily thrown up parapet of earthwork of considerable height, with a deep ditch at the outer base on the north, east, and south sides, in front of which were placed at intervals very formidable looking abattis, constructed of prickly pear trees and other species of cactus ; while one or two batteries of heavy guns were posted in^commanding positions, including three^large-sized cannonades, which swept the

B 5 main road into the interior, and a bridge, over which it passed, about ^Ye hundred yards from the city gates. An outlying picquet was posted in a cotton field beyond the lines, whence a good view of the surrounding country could be obtained, the sentinels from this outpost connecting with those on the ramparts.

The garrison consisted of a battalion of Turcos, which are troops raised by the French in the African settlements, the men being principally quite black. They are fine, swarthy looking fellows, and in their Zouave dress present a very martial appearance ; they are, however, usually a pack of incarnate devik, and sie celebrated for their acts of lawless plunder and rapine in times of war ; they fight like tigers, though their discipline is very lax, as they utterly refuse to obey anyone but their own regimental officers, and, if checked too much, are sometimes insubordinate even to them. They were a source of constant terror to the Mexicans, who would at any time have preferred fighting double their number of white men. Stationed here were also a regiment of Mexican infantry and a few hastily raised levies of native cavalry, called the "^ Guardia Kural," a kind of Yeomanry, than whom a more wretched looking squad I never beheld. I do not think there was a horse among them worth twenty- five dollars ; they appeared to greater disadvantage than they otherwise would have, by contrast with the two well-mounted and equipped troops of Chasseurs d'Afrique, who were parading at the same time.

In the evening we were much struck with the pretty effect produced by the ladies of the place, who, dressed in gay coloured muslins, with their *^ rebosos'' thrown gracefully over their heads and shoulders, were sitting in the verandahs or on the house-tops, smoking cigarettes, chatting, and enjoying the evening breeze.

The reboso, the national head dress of the women of Mexico, is a long scarf of linen, generally a mixture of black and white, and is an indispensable article of dress to all ranks and ages. The little damsel of three years old would not think of putting her head out of doors without rapidly and gracefully donning her reboso, which is accomplished by throwing it on the back of the head, hanging over the shoulders, one end being allowed to hang down in front, and the other thrown back over the left shoulder ; at the approach of a stranger, by an almost imperceptable movement, it is drawn more closely, obscuring the lower portion of the face, leaving only the brilliant dark eyes visible.

The evening occupation of the ladies, *' smoking," may perhaps astonish some of my English readers ; but that habit is as common with the ladies in Mexico as with the men, from the highly-born matron or fashionable young belle in her teens to the old hag in the streets, or the little beggar girl sitting on the doorstep. A small bag of finely cut tobacco, together with a little book of cigarette paper, is usually carried in the pocket, which they very skilfully roll up between their fingers into cigarettes, which, after lighting, they hold gracefully between the forefinger and thumb, taking occasional whiffs until consumed.

On the conclusion of a meal, even before the cloth is removed, there will probably be no one at the table who is not thus occupied. Mexicans do not, however, indulge in the practice so common among the gentlemen of their neighbours the Yankees, I mean, expectoration, which filthyhabit is quite unknown with them. Should a gentleman find himself kissing the pretty little hand of a Mexican beauty he would find that the tips of the forefinger and thumb were as brown as berries, caused by perpetual contact with tobacco juice, which oozes through the paper of the cigarettes.

A night, spent principally in doing battle with the mosquitoes, was succeeded by a splendid morning, which, after an early cup of chocolate, the usual matutinal beverage of the Mexicans, I devoted to another walk round the lines, and was rewarded by witnessing the arrival of a battalion of Zouaves which had been daily expected from the interior, and had marched unmolested through a tract of country held by five thousand of the enemy, who, though they made their presence known by a hundred petty annoyances, such as keeping provisions out of the town, and firing from the bush at sentinels, still seldom showed themselves, and the garrison, before the

14 MEXICO mTDER MAXIMILIAN.

arrival of the Zouaves, had been too weak to sally forth in quest of them.

On this very morning a couple of peasants who had endeavoured to enter the town with five donkeys, laden with charcoal, were discovered by a French sentry at daybreak hung, in company with their donkeys, exactly in front of his post, no doubt the work of some scouting party of the enemy who had intercepted them.

At twelve o'clock we bid adieu to the town of Mazatlan, and returned on board, our party being increased by one or two fresh passengers, among whom was an old American gentleman, escorting a young lady, the niece of the British Consul at Tepic, to which place they were proceeding, and we subsequently travelled there together, an arrangement that (to us at least) proved very agreeable.

Our captain was a very amusing companion, and would spin many a long yarn over our evening cigars ; but his great hobby was the war then going on with, what he termed, the rebel states. He was a staunch Union man, and I have seldom met with one who equalled him ia bitter hatred towards the South. I will not attempt to weary my readers, as he did me sometimes, with the hundred and one arguments which he employed to convince me that hanging was much too good for any Confederate, from Jeff. Davis down to the smallest drummer boy.

Whatever I might offer in their favour, was always silenced by his final, and as he considered it, clenching argument, '^ We're bound to whip 'em, sir; this is an almighty nation, and God knows it, and takes care of his own. If they bring a hundred thousand men, we'll bring five, and if England tries to interfere, we can throw a column of men into Canada that would create a famine in a week. We're bound to whip 'em, sir ! Yes, Siree ! "

Two more days brought us to San Bias, which was to be our port of disembarkation, and about six o'clock on the morning of the 12th of January, the anchor was dropped in the roads of that most wretched of all the ports of Mexico. French menof-war were at anchor here likewise. It is a place of little or no importance, though the nearest point on the Pacific to the principal cities in the interior, except Acapulco, which was then unapproachable by land, being, like Mazatlan, in a state of siege by the Liberals.

It now appeared that the really serious part of our journey was about to commence, and I was not without considerable anxiety at the prospect of taking my wife through upwards of nine hundred miles of a country overrun by contending factions, and their lawless troops, and the highways of which were infested with innumerable bands of guerillas.

All was now hurry and confusion, shore boats had already arrived, and as the steamer was only going to remain afewhours, the passengers, most of whom were going to leave the ship here, were all hastening to collect their effects and get on shore. Our friend very kindly volunteered to precede us, in the first boat, and take rooms at the hotely alas ! for our unsophisticated ignorance ; and after a great deal of trouble with a drunken purser's clerk, who wanted to make me pay twice over for our baggage, and who received a severe reprimand from the captain, who arrived on board most opportunely, after landing the mails, and from whom we had always received the greatest kindness and attention, at about nine o'clock we entered one of the numerous boats in waiting, and started for the scenes of our future adventures.

The impressions produced by a further introduction to the land of Montezuma I will reserve for another chapter.

Chapter II

For the guidance of my readers who have not followed the late Mexican war in all its details, and are not perhaps distinctly aware of the causes which first brought it about, it may not be amiss for me to give a short epitome, both of its origin, of the expedition from the commencement, the founding of the Empire, and of the military situation of the country, at the time of which I am speaking. These facts I have collected with great care, from the best authenticated accounts written at the time.

The first diplomatic trace of the thought of intervention in Mexico, originated in Spain. France and England had long been endeavouring to obtain redress, for wrongs inflicted by the Mexican authorities on several of their subjects, as well as the adjustment of certain pecuniary claims, but hitherto all negotiations had been unsuccessfal.

Spain, however, had not yet lost the hope of re-entering into possession of her American colonies, and trusted by means of European intervention, to re-establish a throne in Mexico, and cause it to be occupied by a Prince of the house of Bourbon.

On the 24th of November, 1858, Mr. Mon, then Spanish Ambassador to France, represented to Count Walewsky, " the necessity of establishing a strong power and government in these countries."

On the 3rd of January, 1859, Mr. Mon wrote to Mr. Calderon Collantes, minister of foreign affairs in Spain — *^ My idea, which I have not been so fortunate as to enable your Excellency to understand, reduced itself to examining whether it would be possible to form a government in Mexico which, supported at the outset by the three powers, would end by having no need of any. Will your Excellency indicate to me, if possible, the form, as well as the means, which appear to you suitable to be made use of under such circumstances ? Count Walewski and myself have left the question at this point, in order to be able to resume it when we think fit."

Seven days later Mr. Calderon Collantes replied that he shared Mr. Mon's views, but that according to him ^' Moral and purely diplomatic means were sufficient." On the 18th of April, 1860, Mr. Calderon Collantes wrote to Mr. Mon as follows : —

"Your Excellency is aware of the attempt made several times by Her Majesty's Government with regard to those of England and France, with a view to adopting a measure to put an end to the anarchy which exists in the Mexican Eepublic.

'^Some time ago I had with M. Barrot (French ambassador to this Court) a conference upon this serious affair. M. Barrot transmitted my indications to the Emperor's minister of foreign affairs, and a few days ago he read me an extract from one of his dispatches, in which it is shown that the Governments of France and England are now disposed to combine their efforts in order to obtain the establishment of a government in Mexico which will be recognised by the entire nation, and will put an end to the sad situation in which this unhappy Republic has found itself for so many years past. M, Thouvenal thinks that the best means would be to propose the convocation of a constituent assembly, which should determine the form of government in a stable and definite manner, and solve all the pending questions, whatever their nature and importance. Her Majesty's will is then, that your Excellency should have an interview with M. Thouvenal, with a view to seeking the means for the three respective powers of intervening in the disorder of the Mexican Eepublic. The Government of Her Majesty thinks that the mere news of this resolution and the first measures taken to bring it to a good end will suffice to give courage to honourable persons in Mexico, and predispose minds to labour in favour of the establishment of a government, which, without limiting the exercise of legitimate rights or the guarantee which they have in civilized countries, will for ever enchain that spirit of rebellion which has caused so much damage in this unfortunate country."

Thanks to the favourable reception given to the Spanish propositions by France and Ens^land, Mr. Calderon CoUantes thought fit to risk a project of constitution for the re-organization of Mexico, which he sent to Paris and London on the 24th of May, 1860. This was going to work too fast, and England stopped him forthwith, having no intention of being used as a cat'spaw by the Catholic powers.

Mr. Isturitz, minister from Spain to London, wrote on the 27th of April, 1860, to Mr. Calderon CoUantes —

" In effect, on the 27th of April, 1860, Lord John Russell, warned as to the co-operation that England might give, replied, laconically, to me that he did not repel it, provided that it was thoroughly understood that the use of force should not enter into the execution of these projects. In a second interview I insisted, in order to obtain a more explicit answer from Lord John Russell, the Secretary of State explained, that on its part England will exact the protection of the Protestant faith, to which I replied that in that case England must not rely upon the co-operation of Spain."

M. Barrot, minister from France to Spain, was at the same time charged to transmit to Mr. Calderon Collantes, in the name of his Government, the following : —

" It is, besides, understood," said the dispatch, " that the measures in question shall have an entirely friendly character, and that they shall exclude the idea of recourse to any means of material coercion."

Thus ended the first period of the Mexican question. It was to be set aside till the 1st of September, 1861.

Spain, meanwhile, in nowise discouraged by the refusal of England and France to aid her enterprise, had pursued its execution alone, through the intervention of the Captain General of the Island of Cuba. A year later, when she was ready to act, she again put the Mexican question upon the diplomatic carpet. Mr. Mon, alluding to the approaching secession of the

Southern States of America, wrote to Mr. Calderon CoUantes : —

^' The Government cannot conceal that this may be an occasion for reviving past souvenirs, and placing upon the throne of Mexico a prince of the Bourbon blood, more or less intimately united to this house."

This was the last word of Spanish political thought, and which was destined to remove all scruples from Louis Napoleon's mind, and to bring about the retreat of Spain at the outset of hostilities.

On the 6th of September, 1861, Mr. Mon received orders to announce to M. Thouvenal, that a Spanish fleet was ready to set sail, to operate against Mexico, and the Captain General of the Island of Cuba received orders to that effect. It would have been difficult, it must be confessed, to have acted with more resolution and skill, and if her strength had been equal to her will, Spain, without doubt, would have brought her plan to a good issue. Napoleon, it may be, terrified at the thought of any Bourbon restoration whatever, even at three thousand leagues from France, no longer hesitated. He intervened at once, and persuaded England to do the same. A month later, on the 11th of October, 1861, M. Thouvenal wrote to M. de Flahault in London : —

'^ I have replied to the English Ambassador, that I was entirely in harmony with his Government as to one point, that I admit, like Lord Russell, that the legitimacy of our coercive action with regard to Mexico would only result from our griefs against the Government of that country, and that those griefs, as well as the means of redressing them, and preventing their renewal, could alone, in effect, be the object of an ostensible convention. But it appeared to me useless to go beyond, and interfere in advance with the ultimate exercise of a legitimate participation in the events of which our operations might be the origin.

" It is permissible to suppose, in effect^ that if the issue of the American crisis consecrated the separation of the North and South, the two new confederations would both seek for such compensation as the territory of Mexico, given up to social dissolution, would offer to their competition. Such an event could not be indifferent to England, and the principal obstacle which might, according to us, prevent its accomplishment, would be the constituting a reparative Government in Mexico strong enough to check its internal dissolution."

On the 27th of July, 1861, M. de Saligny, the French Minister at Mexico, officially announced to his Government that, in accordance with Mr. Charles Wyke, the English Minister to the same power, he had broken off diplomatic relations with the Government of Juarez. M. Thouvenal approved of his conduct, and on the 5th of September (the evening of the day on which Mr. Mon had officially notified him of the sending of a Spanish fleet to operate against Mexico), the French minister thus summed up M. de Saligny's instructions : —

" The Emperor's Government entirely approves of your conduct, and protests in the most formal manner against that of the Government of Juarez.

" It is important that the latter Government should not ignore the impression of the Emperor's Government, and that it should be edified as to what we should exact from it. You are, then, to declare, that the suspension of the payment of foreign conventions, let it be covered with whatever pretext it may, is, on our part, the object of the most lively disapprobation ; and that we demand the immediate repeal of the law of the 17th of July last. You will add, that we claim the establishment of Commissaries in the ports of Vera Cruz and Tampico, whom we shall point out, and whose mission will be to secure the payment to the powers who have a right to it, of the funds which are to be raised to their profit, in execution of foreign conventions, upon the product of the Maritime Custom Houses of Mexico. Tf the Mexican Government refuses to accept these conditions, you are called upon, sir, to quit Mexico without delay, with all the persons who compose His Majesty's Legation."

This was tantamount to a declaration of war, and the intervention was accordingly resolved upon. On the 30th of October, 1861, M. Thou-

0 2 venal announced it in these terms to M. Dubois de Saligny: —

'^ The Emperor has decided that a naval division be placed under the command of Bear Admiral Jurien de la Graviere, who shall receive the mission to repair to the Gulf of Mexico, to obtain the satisfaction which, after a final examination of the situation, appears to be exacted bj regard for our dignity, and for the violence, of all kinds, to which our nation is subjected. The Emperor's Government will not act alone. The Government of Her British Majesty and that of Her Catholic Majesty, propose to unite their forces to those with which we intend to make this expedition."

This is the first time that, in a dispatch, M. Thouvenal revealed the existence of a convention between France, Spain, and England, which was to be signed on the morrow, the terms of which Mr. Calderon Collantes discussed with Mr. Mon in a dispatch dated the 23rd, and which had been the object of diplomatic correspondence for nearly two years.