Ruins of desert Cathay : personal narrative of explorations in Central Asia and westernmost China

Front matter

M?QILL

UNIVERSliy

LIBRARY

Chapter I Chapter H

Through Swat and Dir

CHAPTER HI

CHAPTER JV

In Chitral ....

CHAPTER V

Through Mastuj

CHAPTER VI

CHAPTER VII

In Afghan Wakhan .

XXV

XXVI

CHAPTER VIII

PAGE

CHAPTER IX

CHAPTER X

CHAPTER XI

CHAPTER XII

CHAPTER XIII

Along the foot of the Kun-lun . . • • * 5 *

CHAPTER XIV

CHAPTER XV

To the Nissa Glaciers . . . . -179

CHAPTER XVI

CHAPTER XVII

In the Karanghu-tagh Mountains

CHAPTER XVIII

A FEAST AT KhOTAN ....

CHAPTER XIX

By the desert edge of Khotan

CHAPTER XX

The shrines of Khadalik .

CHAPTER XXI

Sites around Do.vioko

CHAPTER XXII

To Keriya and the Niya River

CHAPTER XXIII

CHAPTER XXIV

Records from a hidden archive

CHAPTER XXV

Last days at a dead oasis .

XXVIII

CHAPTER XXVI

l•Af;K

To the: Endere River ..... 300

CHAPTER XXVII

From the Endere ruins to Charchan . 310

CHAPTER XXVIII

Along the Charchan River . .321

CHAPTER XXIX

At Vash-shahri and Charklik .... 332

CHAPTER XXX

CHAPTER XXXI

Across an eroded dry delta .

CHAPTER XXXII

First excavations at the Lop-nor Site

CHAPTER XXXIII

Survey of the ancient station

CHAPTER XXXIV

Records from an ancient rubbish heap

CONTENTS XXIX

CHAPTER XXXV

PACB

CHAPTER XXXVI

Across the desert to the Tarim . . . -415

CHAPTER XXXVII

By the Tarim and Charchan Darya . . . 4*4

CHAPTER XXXVIII

The ruined fort of Miran .... 43^

CHAPTER XXXIX

Finds of Tibetan records . . . • • 445

CHAPTER XL

Ancient temples of Miran . . . • • 45*

CHAPTER XLI

CHAPTER XLII

CHAPTER XLIII

XXX

CHAPTER XLIV

PAGE

Mural painting of Buddhist legend . 4^6

CHAPTER XLV

CHAPTER XLVI

CHAPTER XLVII

The last of the dry Lop-nor . . . . 520

CHAPTER XLVIII

CHAPTER XLIX

First glimpse of an ancient frontier

I

1. View from Malakand Fort north into the Swat Valley ; Crater

Camp in foreground .....

2. Chakdara Fort, Swat Valley, seen from north

3. Shikarai hamlet above Dir, with Dir Levies on road .

4. Ruin of old Hindu temple, Gumbat, Talash Valley .

5. Ruin of Karwan-balasi near Bozai-gumbaz, Little Pamir

6. Pathan and Gujar carriers collected at Kolandi, above Dir.

Dir Levies on flanks . . . . .

7. View of Lowarai Pass from Gujar Post

8 . Gorge near Ziarat, below Lowarai Pass

9. Snow-beds of avalanches from side valley of Buzagol, above

10. In Tangi-tar gorge below Tar-bashi . . . .

1 1. Kafirs settled at Ayun, Chitral ....

1 2. Chitrali villagers collected for anthropometrical examination .

13. Tirich-Mir Peak, seen from below Chitral Agency

14. Mosque in grove of Chinars (Bazar-masjid), near Chitral

15. Bashgali Kafirs, anthropometrically examined at Chitral

16. Oxus Valley near Sarhad, with range towards Great Pamir,

seen from Kansir spur . . . . .

17. Villagers of Buni, Mastuj, with Khan Sahib Pir Bakhsh and

Kurban ......

18. Bahadur Khan, Governor of Mastuj, with his two sons,

Khan Sahib Pir Bakhsh, and Mastuji attendants .

19. Obaidullah Khan, with his sons and villagers, Miragram

20. Parlour in Obaidullah’s house, Miragram

XXXI

PAGE

XXXII

PAGE

2 1. Defile of Darband, Yarkhun Valley, with ruined watch-tow'ers,

seen from north . . . • *5®

2 2. Top of Darkot Pass, looking to north-west across Darkot

Glacier towards Indus-Oxus watershed . *5^

23. On the Baroghil Saddle, looking towards Oxus Valley 58

24. View from approach of Baroghil Saddle to S.S.W., towards

Darkot Range . . • .60

25. Kirghiz shifting felt tent at Gumbaz-5tek .74

26. Afghan escort with baggage preparing to cross Baharak Stream 74

27. View across I^ake Chakmaktin towards Ak-tash, Little Pamir 78

28. In the felt tent of Muhammad Isa, Kirghiz head-man of

Afghan Pamirs . . . .78

29. Oxus source glaciers seen from mouth of Wakhjir Valley 82

30. VVakhi head-men and carriers at K5k-tor5k . . .82

31. Head of Ab-i-Panja Valley looking towards Wakhjir and Oxus

32. Watch-station at foot of Mintaka Pass with Sarikolis . 90

33. Hunza Dak runners and Sarikoli frontier guards at Mintaka

34. Chinese fort of Tash-kurghan seen from near left bank of

35. Ruined wall and bastion of Kiz-kurghan seen from S.W. . 92

36. Our train of yaks and ponies crossing the Kashka-su Dawan.

View to south . . . . .100

37. Kirghiz head-men and followers in front of felt tent, Toile-

38. Hassan Akhun, my head camel-man .112

39. Chiang-ssu-yeh, my Chinese secretary and helpmate . 116

40. Ruins of old fort, Khakanning-shahri, above right bank of

Artush River . . , . . .120

41. Muhammadan shrine and cemetery on road to Kashgar 120

42. Reception by Hindu traders at Bigil, near Yarkand . .130

43. Bazar group by canal bank, near Karghalik . .130

44. Surveyor Rai Ram Singh with Jasvant Singh starting from

. . . . .148

45. Pakhpu hillmen anthropometrically examined at Kok-yar 148

XXXllI l>AGB

46. Food offerings to the sacred pigeons at shrine of Kum-rabat

Padshahim . . . . . .164

47. Mosque and avenue of poplars near Borache, Khotan . 164

48. Entrance to Bazar of Borache, Khotan Oasis . 166

49. T'ang Ta-jen, Military Amban of Khotan, with his children

and attendants . . . . . .166

50. Badruddin Khan, ‘ Ak-sakaF of Indian and Afghan traders

at Khotan . . . . .170

51. Ahmad Ishan (Andijani ‘Ak-sakal’), and Abdullah Khan

(Afghan trader) at Keriya . . . .170

52. ‘ Haji ^ Akhun Beg, my host at Khotan .172

53. Testing raft of inflated skins on the tank of Nar-bagli 176

54. Tank and arbour near Ruknuddin Mazar, Yotkan . .176

55. Mosque with tank near west gate of Khotan town . 178

56. In Topcha gorge, south of Ulughat Pass . . .178

57. Head of Nissa Valley seen from Tam-dghil, above Tor . 182

58. Head of Kashkul Glacier with its n^vd-beds, looking towards

59. View of Otrughul Glacier looking towards south-east . 190

60. View of Otrughul Glacier looking towards east . .190

61. ‘ Bridge ’ across Kash River above Karanghu-tagh . 194

62. Exiled malefactors from Khotan and Taghlik herdsmen at

Khushlash-langar, Karanghu-tagh . . .198

63. Snout of detritus-covered glacier at head of Busat Valley 204

64. Taghlik family from Karanghu-tagh, at felt tent in Busat

Valley 204

65. Bridge across Yurung-kash River in gorge near Khushlash-

66. View up Yurung-kash gorge from Kara-kir spur . . 208

67. View from Kara-kir spur across Yurung-kash River gorge

towards Chomsha Valley . . • .208

68. Gorge of Kizil Jilga, below Tarim Kishlak, on route across

Tikelik-tagh . . • .212

69. Gate with votive offerings on path to shrine of Imam JaYar

XXXIV

PACE

70. Amban’s guests feasting on terrace leading to ‘my* pavilion

71. Ch*e Ta-jen, Amban of Khotan, with local Begs . . 218

72. Roze Akhun*s band of Khotan ‘treasure-seekers* . . 224

73. Ruined Stupa of Rawak seen from dune above south-west

wall of quadrangle . . • • .224

74. Eroded remains of temple ruin at Kine-tokmak . . 226

75. Entrance gate to pilgrimage shrine of Imam Ja’far Tairan,

76. Remains of stucco relievos from wall decoration of various

Buddhist ruins near Khotan . . *230

77. l^rge fragment of frescoed wall from Buddhist temple,

Khadalik, with stencilled Buddha figures . .244

78. Interior of small ruined dwelling excavated to the north of

main temple site, Khadalik . . .244

79. Wooden column with mouldings excavated in room near

main shrine, Khadalik . . . . .246

80. My seven camels from Keriya, in winter dress, marching in

gravel desert . . . . .246

81. My diggers from Niya in jungle near Endere River . .266

82. Khotan pilgrims returning from Imam Ja*far Sadik*s shrine . 268

83. Row of dead mulberry trees in ancient orchard near ruin

N. xviiL, Niya Site ..... 268

84. North rooms of ruin N. xiii., Niya Site, after excavation . 272

85. Remains of household furniture and implements (3rd

century a.d.), excavated in ruin N. xiii., Niya Site . 274

86. Room excavated in ruin N. xxvi., Niya Site, with ancient

carved cupboard in wood . . . . .274

87. Ruin of sand-buried dwelling N. xx., near northern end of

Niya Site, before excavation . . . .276

88. Room in ruined dwelling N. xx., Niya Site, in course of

excavation . . . . , .276

89. Ruin of large sand-buried house N. xxvi., Niya Site, in

course of excavation . . . . .278

V

I

XXXV

PAGE

90. Ruin of ancient residence N. xxiv., Niya Site, seen from

remains of dead arbour on east . . . .280

91. Door with ornamental wood-carving in sand-buried ruin of

dwelling N. xii. Niya Site .... 280

92. Remains of ornamental wood-carving, mainly from ruins

of Niya Site ...... 280

93. Central hall and office room in ruined residence N. xxiv.,

Niya Site, after excavation . . . .282

94. Kharoshthi document on rectangular double tablet, from

hidden archive in N. XXIV. . . . .284

95. Clay impressions of intaglio seals on Kharoshthi documents

found at Niya Site . . . . .286

96. Kharoshthi documents on double-wedge tablets from ruin

N. XIII., Niya Site . . . . .288

97. Kharoshthi records on oblong and label -shaped wooden

tablets found at Niya Site . . .290

98. Room excavated in ancient residence N. xxvi., Niya Site,

with decorated double bracket in wood . . .292

99. Ruined dwelling N. xxviii., on eroded clay terrace, Niya Site 294

100. Ruin of ancient dwelling, N. xxxvi., at southern end of

Niya Site, in course of excavation . . .294

101. Trunks of dead trees enclosing ancient tank . 298

102. Interior of ruined village at Bilel-konghan, seen from

circumvallation on north-east . . .304

103. Interior of ruined fort of Endere seen from east . 310

104. Remains of ancient wall on erosion ‘witness,^ Endere Site . 314

105. Ruined tower with remains of wind -eroded dwelling in

foreground, Endere Site . . . . .314

106. Ruin of ancient fortified post near high tamarisk -covered

sand cone, Endere Site . . . . . 3 * ^

107. ‘ Dastarkhan * offered on desert route to Charchan . . 316

108. Western group of ruined Stupa and temples, Miran Site . 338

109. Liao Ta-lao-ye, Chinese magistrate of Charklik . . 338

no. South face of ruined fort, with central bastion, Miran Site . 350

111. Loplik fishermen at reed hut, Abdal . . * 35 ®

1 1 2. Ruin of ancient Stupa, Lop-nor Site, from south-east . 374

XXXVI u

1 1 3. View to the south-east from ruined Stupa, Lop-nor Site,

across wind-eroded ground ....

1 14. View to the south from ruined Stupa, Lop-nor Site, across

wind-eroded ground .....

1 1 5. Ruin of ancient dwelling LA. i., and of Stupa, Lop-nor Site,

seen from south ......

1 1 6. Remains of ancient woven fabrics from Lop-nor Site

1 1 7. Small antiques, mainly in metal, collected from wind-eroded

ground at Lop-nor Site .....

1 1 8. Large refuse heap in centre of ancient station, Lop-nor

Site, in course of excavation ....

1 1 9. Ancient Chinese documents on wooden tablets, from ruins

of the Niya and Lop-nor Sites and of the Tun-huang Limes .......

120. Remains of ancient Buddhist shrine LB. ii., Lop-nor Site,

before clearing ......

1 2 1. Ruin of small Stupa near shrine I.B. ii., Lop-nor Site, rising

on ‘Yardang’ which wind-erosion is undercutting

122. Pieces of architectural wood-carving decorated in Gandhara

style, from ruined Buddhist shrine, Lop-nor Site .

123. Portion of ruined house, LB. iv., Lop-nor Site, seen from

east, before clearing .....

124. Hall in ruined house LB. iv., Lop-nor Site, with turned

wooden pillars, after excavation ....

125. Fragments of decorative wood-carving, partly with classical

motifs, from ruined house LB. iv., Lop-nor Site

126. Camels being loaded for start from Lop-nor Site

127. Wind-eroded clay terraces (Yardangs) rising among dunes,

Lop-nor Desert ......

128. Dawan or ridge of dunes, rising to about fifty feet, Lop-nor

Desert • . . . . .

129. Camels crossing Dawan of dunes, Lop-nor Desert, New

130. Camels grazing on first reeds after crossing Lop-nor Desert .

1 31. Circumvallation of small fort of Merdek-shahr, overgrown

with reeds

4 1 2 416

XXXV II

PAGE

132. Habdal labourers from Charklik .... 432

133. My tent at Shah-tokhtaning-koli, by Charchan River . 432

134. South-east corner of interior of Miran Fort in course of

excavation ...... 440

135. Camp below walls of ruined fort, Miran . 440

136. Old Tibetan documents, on w^ood and paper, excavated

from ruined quarters of Miran Fort . . .442

137. Trading caravan passing Miran Site en route for Tun-huang 444

138. Remains of scale armour and miscellaneous objects found

in Tibetan Fort, Miran . . . . .444

139. Base of ancient Buddhist shrine M. 11., Miran Site, from

north-east . . . .452

140. Remains of colossal figures of seated Buddhas in north-

east passage of ruined shrine M. ii., Miran Site . . 454

1.4 1. Stucco head of colossal Buddha figure, as discovered

between statue bases in shrine M. ii., Miran Site . . 454

142. Ruin of domed Buddhist shrine enclosing Stupa, M. iii.,

Miran Site, seen from east . . .458

143. Fresco piece from frieze of ruined Buddhist shrine M. iii.,

Miran Site ...... 462

144. Ruined mound containing remains of Buddhist shrine

M. V., Miran Site, before excavation, seen from south-east 478

145. Interior of rotunda and Stupa in ruined Buddhist shrine

M. V., Miran Site, after excavation . . .478

146. Portion of fresco frieze and dado on south-east wall of

rotunda in Buddhist shrine M. v., Miran Site . .482

147. Portion of fresco frieze and dado on south wall of rotunda

in Buddhist shrine M. v., Miran Site . . . 482

148. Portion of frescoed dado, with lower part of frieze, on south

wall of rotunda in Buddhist shrine M. v., Miran Site . 484

149. Spring of Lowaza with ice sheet at foot of old lake shore,

and view across salt-encrusted Lop-nor bed . .498

150. Convoy of antiques starting from Abdal for Kashgar . 498

1 5 1. Camping-ground of Besh-toghrak, on route to Tun-huang . 528

152. Eroded clay terrace near western edge of old terminal basin xxxvni ILLUSTRATIONS

153. Ruins of ancient watch-tower T. in., near western end of

Tun-huang Livies • • * *

154. Ruin of ancient Chinese fort, T.xiv., marking the position

of the ‘ Jade Gate,’ seen from north-east .

PACE

COLOUR PLATES, PANORAMAS, AND MAP

Ancient Buddhist painting showing Vaisravanna, demon-king of the North, from the ‘ Caves of the Thousand Buddhas’. . • • Frontispiece

Plate I. Panoramic view of Darkot and Chatiboi Glaciers . 54

II. Panoramic view of end portion of Otrughul Glacier . 188

„ III. Panoramic view taken near southern end of Niya Site . 296

IV. Frescoes of winged figures from dado of ruined

Buddhist shrine M. iii., Miran . . . 45 ^

V. Fresco composition from frieze of ruined Buddhist

shrine M. iii., Miran . . . -470

Map I. (General) showing portions of Chinese Turkestan and Kansu. Scale i 13,000,000

At end of volume.

CHAPTER I

Ever since, in 1901, I returned from my first journey into Chinese Turkestan, happy recollections of successful labour among its mountains and deserts kept my mind fixed upon the hope of fresh explorations. By the excavations I then effected it was my good fortune to bring to light for the first time authentic remains of that ancient civilization which, as the joint product of Indian, Chinese, and classical influences, had once flourished in the oases fringing the Tarim Basin. There was every reason to hope that explorations renewed over a wider area, and with a more liberal allowance of time and means, would be equally fruitful. But the very abundance of the results which had rewarded my first effort retarded the attainment of that eagerly sought chance. Their scientific elaboration had to precede a fresh journey, and to assure that elaboration in a manner befitting pioneer work in a new field involved a task of exceptional difficulty. It was not enough to record and illustrate in full detail discoveries so ample and varied ; the very novelty and the remoteness of their region laid it upon me to become their interpreter also from whatever historical and geographical light could be gathered.

The task was doubly heavy for one who had to struggle for leisure from exacting official duties. So it was not until the summer of 1904, while employed as Inspector- General of Education on the North-West Frontier, that I was able to submit to the Government of India detailed proposals about another journey which was to carry me back

VOL. I B

CH. I to mv old archaeological hunting-grounds around the TaklamakL desert, and thence far away eastwards to within the Great Wall of China. Owing to the kind n^t^^est shown by Lord Curzon, then Viceroy of India and the help of devoted friends able to realize how closely the proposed explorations touched the sphere of India s historical interests, my scheme obtained, in the spring of 1905, the approval of the Indian Government and the Secretary of State Their favourable decision was facilitated by the Trustees of the British Museum, who agreed to contribute two-fifths of the estimated cost of the expedition, /e.ooo in all, against a corresponding share in the prospective ‘ archaeological proceeds,’ as official language styled

them, , . , j .

I had originally tried hard for permission to start during

the summer of 1905. But my efforts were frustrated by the difficulty of securing that freedom from routine work which I needed for the completion of my scientific Report on the former journey. At last by the ist of October 1905 I was released from administrative duties. Rarely have I felt such relief as on that day when I could set out from my alpine camp in Kaghan, the northernmost corner of the Frontier Province, to Kashmir. There six months of ‘special duty’ were to enable me to complete in strict seclusion my scientific Report, and also to make the multifarious preparations indispensable for the fresh explorations before me. ,

It seemed quite a holiday, and at the same time like an appropriate training, when, by six days’ hard marching, largely over mountain tracks which probably never before had seen any laden traffic, I managed to move my camp with its respectable array of book boxes across the high passes above the Kishanganga into Kashmir. It was pleasant, too, to find myself, after an enforced absence of over five years, again in the beloved Alpine land to which many seasons of congenial antiquarian labour had attached me. Yet soon those happy summers seemed as if passed in a previous birth.

Incessant desk -work, more fatiguing to me than any hard marching or digging, kept me imprisoned in my little

CH. I

PREPARATIONS IN KASHMIR 3

cottage above the Dal lake near Srinagar from morning till dusk. Had it not been for my solitary walks in the evening, I should scarcely have had time to observe how the glowing tints of the Kashmir autumn gave way to the dull mists and muddy snows of the valley’s cheerless winter. I t was a period of great strain and anxious labour ; for a variety of practical considerations which cannot be detailed here, made it a matter of the utmost concern that I should be free to start for Turkestan as early in the spring as the high passes northward were at all practicable. But in the end the unbroken exertion of those trying six months bore fruit. Towards the close of March, when the sun had at last begun fitfully to smile again upon the Alpine land, which Hindu mythology represents as Himalayas favourite daughter, my Ancient Khotan was practically completed. Thanks to the help of self-sacrificing friends far away, the greater portion of its two stout quarto volumes had safely passed through the University Press in distant Oxford.

Nor had the many preparations for the long and difficult travels before me been neglected. Correspondence had settled all details about the two native assistants whose services were to be placed at my disposal by the Survey of India and the Military Department. What stores, scientific instruments, and other equipment were needed from London, Calcutta, and elsewhere had been ordered in good time. In Srinagar itself willing hands of faithful old Kashmiri retainers had busied themselves over the furs, felt boots, and other articles of personal outfit which were to protect us against the climatic rigours of Central- Asian mountains and deserts. Their care, too, had effected what repairs were needed in my little Kaljul tent, supplied by the Cawnpore Elgin Mills in 1900 for my first journey, and ever since my only true home, to make it thoroughly fit for another three years’ campaigning.

For my entry into Chinese Turkestan I was eager to use a new route, singularly interesting for the student of early geography and ethnography, but practically closed by political difficulties to the European traveller. It was to take me from the Indian administrative border

I t

CH. I near Peshawar through the Pathan tribal territory of Swat and Dir into Chitral, and thence across the Hindukush to the uppermost Oxus Valley and the Afghan Pamirs, My lamented chief and friend, Sir Harold A. Deane, K.C.S.I., that truly great Warden of the Marches, then Chief Commissioner of the North-West Frontier Province, whose kind help and interest never failed me, had readily agreed to my project. A political obstacle which I had reason to consider very serious was removed more easily than I had ventured to hope ; for Habibullah, King of Afghanistan, on being approached through the Indian Foreign Office, had granted me, with a promptness for which I shall always retain sincere gratitude, permission to cross a portion of his territory not visited by any European since the days of the Pamir

Boundary Commission. tt- j i

But before reaching Afghan soil beyond the Hindukush I should have first to get into Chitral, and the misgivings entertained locally as to the possibility of safely crossing with baggage the difficult Lowarai Pass, leading from Dir to Chitral, then deeply buried under snow, still interposed a formidable barrier. I had the strongest reasons to apprehend the results of any delay in this crossing ; for if I could not reach the headwaters of the Chitral River before May ended, I should run a very serious risk of finding its narrow uppermost gorges above Mastuj, which give access to the Oxus watershed on the Baroghil, closed completely to traffic by the melting snows of the spring. The official correspondence on this subject continuing for months had grown imposing. In the end its file was quite bulky, though much of it consisted of telegrams on the thinnest paper! So when April arrived without any assurance as to an early date being allowed for the Lowarai crossing, I felt it high time to leave Kashmir for the Frontier and to make personal efforts to clear the way for an early start,

A truly bright day, the first of the season, preceded my departure from Srinagar early on April 2, 1906. But the trees and fields I passed on the road down to Baramula. Nature’s ancient ‘ Gate of the Kingdom,’ were still

CH. I

ON THE AFGHAN BORDER

in their wintry bareness. For the sight of the first iris I hoped in vain. As the clattering tonga carried me down through the narrow forest-clad gorges of the Jhelam there were plenty of broken bridges and other obstacles to distract attention. So I can scarcely tell exactly at what point spring coming up the Hydaspes and I hurrying down had a passing encounter by the roadside.

After the gloomy cold of a Kashmir winter I was quite ready to appreciate the signs of the approaching hot weather which greeted me on arrival in the Punjab plains. My first days there were claimed by Lahore, once my official ‘ station ’ for eleven years, whither the wish to say good-bye to old friends and the more prosaic necessity of having my teeth looked to before protracted travels ‘ in the wilds ’ were now calling me. A few peaceful days under the hospitable roof of my friend Mr. E. D. Maclagan, then Chief Secretary to the Punjab Government, gave the brief relaxation which I was not likely to meet with again for a long time. These happy days sped past only too fast. Yet, what with long-missed familiar faces and sights all round me and the pleasant memories revived by visits to some delightfully neglected old gardens in the Lahore Campagna which used to be my favourite places of refuge during long years of strain and unceasing exertion, I could say farewell to my kind hosts with a feeling as if I had lived through again much that had cheered me in my Indian past.

At Peshawar, to which I proceeded on April loth, there was plenty to keep my thoughts fully occupied with the present and immediate future. An auspicious chance had so willed it that Lord Minto, the new Viceroy, was to pay his first visit to the capital of the Frontier Province just before the time I was planning for my start from the Peshawar border. It was important for me to interest His Excellency in the explorations before me, and the intercession of his Private Secretary, Colonel (now Sir James R.) Dunlop-Smith, K.C.I.E., C.S.L, whom old friendship has ever prompted to smooth things for me, had already assured to me the desired interview. I could not have revisited my old headquarters on the Frontier

I

CH. I under more pleasant aspects, Peshawar was deliciously cool, and displayed all the spring glory of its gardens with their exuberance of roses and irises. Recent rain had cleared the atmosphere, and the great semicircle of trans-border ranges, dominated by the towering mass of Mount Tartara westwards, raised its barren outlines' above the vast arena of the smiling Peshawar Valley with a sharpness truly fascinating. The coming visit of the Viceroy was drawing Frontier officers from all parts of the border into Peshawar, and every hour brought cheerful meetings with old friends. There was plenty to do in my office, not this time with papers and files, but with the packing of my too numerous books, which a timely ‘ burial ’ in tinlined cases was to save from white ants and other risks during my long absence.

On April 12th I first saw the new Lord of the Indies when the ‘ Administration ’ of the Frontier Province gathered at the Peshawar railway station for his official reception, A pleasant meeting at the same time with Sir Louis Dane, K.C.S.L, then Indian Foreign Secretary and since Lieutenant-Governor of the Punjab, gave me the welcome impression that H.M. the Amir’s ready permission for my passage through Upper Wakhan, just conveyed in an imposing Firman of the ‘God- created Government,’ was regarded with much satisfaction in diplomatic quarters of the Indian Olympus.

Two days later I had the honour of being received by Lord Minto. The kind interest he showed in what I had to tell him of the results of my past Central-Asian efforts, of official obstacles encountered and overcome, and of the difficulties and risks besetting the tasks now before me, soon reassured me that I might reckon upon what support the personal sympathy of the head of the Indian Administration could give. Often during the long lonely travels which followed, when worrying uncertainties oppressed me whether I should ever succeed in securing the leisure needed for working up my scientific results, or the still more eagerly desired chance of freedom for exploratory tasks in the future, I looked back with sincere gratitude to the encouragement which the appreciation of my aims

CH.I MOBILIZATION AT ABBOTTABAD 7 by that statesman of the true grand-seigneur type had given me in the start.

With the Viceroy in residence at Government House and many important affairs of the Frontier to settle, Sir Harold Deane yet found time for a quiet talk with me on the morning of my departure. How grateful I feel now for having had this chance of saying in person my farewell words of thanks to him who had always been my truest friend and patron ! I felt deeply the parting from the protective aegis of the noble soldier - administrator, so alive to all the historical interest of the Frontier, who had never missed an opportunity of giving me scope for archaeological exploits within or without the border. I was aware that it might be a parting for longer than the time of my journey. And yet there was nothing to warn me that within little more than two years this born ruler of men, whose strength of body and mind impressed the most turbulent tribesmen, would succumb to the ceaseless strain of guarding the peace on the Frontier.

For the mobilization base, as it were, of my expedition I had selected Abbottabad, the pretty sub-alpine headquarters of the Hazara District, which offered coolness and seclusion for the busy time of final preparations. When I reached it on the morning of April 1 7th I had the satisfaction to find the array of mule trunks containing equipment safely arrived from Kashmir. The cases with stores and outfit which had been ordered from England and down-country places of India also awaited me at the comfortable new Circuit House. But when could I really hope to make all these impediments move off northwards ? I had long before decided that my start from the Frontier ought to be effected by the last week of April. But even while at Peshawar I had been confronted by tantalizing doubts as to whether the local help, without which the crossing of the snow-covered Lowarai Pass could not be attempted, would be forthcoming at the right time.