The long white mountain, or, A journey in Manchuria : with some account of the history, people, administration and religion of that country

Front matter

LlBk>^7 dF PRINCETON

AUG 2,8

THEC OGjCA|i8£f',^INARY w •

Preface

The journey which we made through Manchuria last year would not warrant the production of a new book of travels, solely on the ground of the variety of its incidents or the value of its geographical results. But Manchuria possesses many points of special interest. From a valley on the outskirts of the Long White Mountains there sprang a petty Tartar chieftain, nearly three hundred years ago, who cliallenged the power of China, and whose sons, after a determined struggle, conquered the Celestial Empire and placed on the throne the present dynasty. Eussia, in the years 1858 and 1860, lopped off the Amur and part of the Primorsk, or Maritime province, leaving only the present Manchuria between the Muscovite and the capital of China. As the scene of a great conflict in the past, for supremacy over Eastern Asia, and perhaps of a still greater in the future, Manchuria merits alike the attention of historical students and contemporary statesmen. Moreover, the rapid rise of the little Manchu nation to a pinnacle that enabled it to impose an outward and viii THE LONG WHITE MOUNTAIN

visible badge of liumiliation upon the innumerable millions of its conquered enemies, followed by its equally rapid transformation, until its institutions, language, and even its national entity, became absorbed in those of the subject race, is one of the most striking incidents in Asiatic history. To the economist and administrator tlie province is full of interest ; its fertility, its resources in gold, iron, coal, timber, and other products, and the vast numbers of colonists which these have attracted, make it a conspicuously progressive country, although suffering from an endemic pest of brigandage, from a corrupt staff of officials, and hampered by many obstacles needlessly put in the way of trade and of the accumulation of wealth. For the etlmologist, Manchuria has attractions arising from the variety of peoples found within her limits — Eussians and Chinese, Mongols and Manchus, Tungusians and Coreans. To the military inquirer, she reveals the spectacle of officers seizing with one hand the latest scientific implements of war, and refusing to drop from the other the oldest and most obsolete — the gingall and the Tartar bow and arrow. The student of comparative religion and the earnest Christian believer may both learn much from Manchuria, partly because her existing religion is a mixture of superstitions widely separated in origin, and partly because two missionary ])odies, at opposite poles of the Christain faith, have successfully begun the task of replacing heathenism by the knowledge of Christ. Finally, the geography of Manchuria is so little known to Europeans that,

PREFACE

IX in a map issued not so very long ago by the lioyal Geographical Society, a chain of snowy peaks, 10,000 to 12,000 feet high, was inserted, which has been found to be purely imaginary. For these reasons 1 liave thought it worth while to put into a connected form a sketch of Manchuria, its history, its people, its administration, and its religion, followed by an account of our journey through the country, including the ascent of the Long White Mountain. This mountain has given rise to many myths during the last three thousand years, but to none more contrary to fact than that which has created a whole range of peaks covered with eternal snow. My wmrk will, at any rate, serve as a foundation on wliich others, better informed, may build hereafter.

The records of an Oriental country scarcely ever travel beyond the wars and achievements of its successive rulers. A great part of my historical sketch is, therefore, necessarily confined to the deeds of the early Manchus ; but I have endeavoured to throw light upon the causes which raised them from mere raiders, like Mahrattas in quest of tribute, to administrators and sovereigns far greater than Scindiah or Holkar. In tracing the history of the existing dynasty down to the reign of the present Emperor Kuang Hsli, 1 have treated of the wars with England and their causes at greater length than I originally intended ; but, although these wars are of recent date, so much misapprehension prevails concerning them that a restatement of the facts seems advisable. For a diflerent reason, my readers

X

THE LONG WHITE MOiNTAIN will be glad to bear again of General Gordon’s eani- ])aigns, which probably saved the Manchu dynasty from extinction. They will also learn, both from the history and the wood-cut, that the doubts which the Abbe Larrieu has recently thrown upon an old friend, the Great Wall of China, are without foundation, at an 3^ rate as far as a portion extending three hundred miles inland from the sea is concerned ; for that distance at least the Wall is 'really a substantial fortification, which has answered, and may answer again, the purpose for which it was built.

I have looked at the administration of Manchuria through Indian spectacles, so that the chapter upon tliat subject and upon religious beliefs may not, I fear, prove very interesting to the general reader. My views, too, upon opium will, I dare say, be unpopular, excepting amongst those who are really acquainted with the subject. I would recommend, therefore, any person who takes up the book solely from an interest in our travel or exploration to omit the first six chapters. And I would especially include in this advice the whole learned body of sinologues. In placing before the public a popular sketch of a Chinese province, it is necessary to describe various things which are familiar to foreigners in China, and to students of Chinese literature. Should, however, any Chinese scholar condescend to read this work, I hope he will be ‘ a little blind ’ to its errors ; for, although I have spared no effort to ensure accuracy, an Anglo-

PREFACE

XI

Indian wilting upon China is sure to drop into some ])itfall. Tliose who are interested in British trade with China may, perhaps, find some food for reflection in the statistics I give in Chapter V., which seem to indicate possibilities of an extended commerce with Manchuria.

I must acknowledge a great debt of gratitude to the Eev. John Eoss, of Moukden, whose historical works are a mine of information for writers like myself. I have also to thank Mr. Eoss for valuable MS. notes on different subjects, and for most of the illustrations. Much information has been obtained from the ‘ Chinese Eepository,’ an article in which contains a comparison between the Chinese and Manchu languages, from the ‘ China Eeview,’ the ‘ Chinese Eecorder,’ ‘ Notes and (lueries on China and Japan,’ several excellent Consular Eeports by Messrs. Meadows, Adkins, and Gardner, and from the ‘ Annales de la Propagation de la Foi.’ M. Cordier’s ‘ Bibliotheca Sinica ’ and Mr. Demetrius Boulger’s ‘ History of China ’ have also proved most useful. The Jesuit narratives, and especially those of Bishop Palafox y Mendoza and Pere Martini, throw a flood of light upon the conquest of China by the Manchus. A valuable paper by the Eev. J. MacIntyre is referred to in the body of the work. The value to students of Mr. Howorth’s great ‘ History of the Mongols ’ is marred by want of an index.

A work called ‘Journeys in North China,’ by the Eev. Mr. Williamson, of Shanghai, includes an account

Xll of several expeditions to difiereiit parts of Maneliiiria ; and a paper by Mr. E. Delmar Morgan, F.E.G.S., in the Eoyal Geographical Society’s ‘Proceedings’ for 1872, describes a journey made in 1870, by the Archimandrite Palladiiis, chief of the Eussian mission in China, from Peking by way of Moukden and Kirin to Blagovaschensk, on the Amur. Botli works are illustrated by good maps, which we found very useful. I must also acknowledge the kind permission given me by Mr. Fleming, C.B., to use two of the illustrations from his work, ‘A Eide on Horseback through Chinese Tartary,’ and thank Mr. E. G. Eavenstein, author of ‘ The Eussians on the Amoor,’ for the translation of two letters from the ‘ Annales de la Propagation de la Foi.’

My special gratitude is due to Mr. W. C. Hillier, Chinese Secretary to Her Majesty’s Legation at Peking, for his kindness in correcting the spelling of Chinese names and .for other assistance. The spelling has indeed been a trial ; but Indian experience taught me the necessity of following a proper scientific system, and, so far as one ignorant of Chinese could do so, from the first 1 endeavoured to follow^ that of Sir Thomas Wade. This system requires many diacritical marks, which are distasteful to the ordinary reader’s eye ; while, therefore, I have taken care to insert them on introducing a woi*d for the first time, they will sometimes be found omitted in cases of repetition, especially if the name is a well-known one, as Kanghi or Kienlung. 1 must admit also a want of princi])le in transliterating l^REFACK xni polysyllabic names, tlie component parts being sometimes separated by liyphens, and sometimes joined together. But to Chinese scholars such names will present no difficulty, and to an ordinary reader a compact is pleasanter than a straggling name.

The characters on the right-hand side of the cover are Manchu, and those on the left Chinese. Tliey represent Cli‘ang-pai-shan, or the Long White Mountain ; Sung-hua Chiang, or the famous river Sungari ; Moukden, or Shen-yang, the capital of Manchuria ; and, lastly, Kirin and Hei-lung Chiang, the central and northern provinces of Manchuria.

The map, which I owe to the kindness of the Eoyal Geographical Society, is founded on the latest Russian maps in the Society’s possession ; but some places, notably those in the newly settled tracts on the Corean border and tlie Mongol frontier, have been located by myself from a Chinese map. The situations in such cases cau be considered only approximately correct. It is a matter for regret that the observations taken by Mr. Younghusband could not be worked out in time for the final correction of the map. Mr. Younghusband displayed untiring perseverance, and it needed no ordinary resolution to stand outside at nights, with a bitter wind blowing, and the tliermometer below zero, waiting till a star rose to its proper altitude. He also took compass observations to fix the position of the hills and rivers as we passed alon". But his love of adventure induced him to ex-

o

tend his travels into Western China and Turkestan, and

XIV liis calculations had to stand over. It is his pencil, liowever, that has enabled my readers to see in the frontispiece the summit of the real ‘ Long White Mountain.’

Christmas, 1887.

H. E. M. J.

Contents

CTIAPTER I.

INTRODUCTORY.

Proo-ramrae of tlie voyage — We reach Yiugtzu or Newchwang — Position of Manchuria — Its boundaries — Its three provinces — Extent of the country — Colonisation by Chinese — Manchuria a highland country — Mountains — Rivers — Barriers for transit-dues — Different names for the same place — Survey by the Jesuits — Description of towns — Walls of towns — Military stations — Plan of towns — Architecture —

Chapter II. History

Aborigines of Manchuria — Discussion as to the name Tartar — Origin of the word Manchu — Dynastic titles — Tribes now called Manchus — Personal appearance of Manchus — Savages once inhabiting Manchuria— Ancient dynasties ruling Liao-tung — Dynasties in the north — Bohai — Golden age of Manchuria — Ketans — Nii-chens — Mings — Effeteness of the Mings — Nurhachii, the first Manchu — Legend of Id Fokolun and the birth of Aisin-gioro — Discussion as to Odoli — Nikan — Nurhachu slays Nikan — Nurhachu builds Lao-ch^eng — Builds Shing-king — His administration — Challenges the Ming — Defeats the Chinese— Takes Moukden and Liao-yang — Chinese resistance— Ma Wen Lung — Chung Wan — Repulse at Ningyuan — Tai Tsung passes the Great Wall — Shunchih — Li-tzu-ch‘eng — Ming Em-

XVI

THE wxa WHITE MOUXTAIX peror commits suicide — Letters of San-kiiei and Prince Dorgiiu — Jji-tzu-cb^eno- defeated — Mancliu dynasty established — Ming’ princes — Prolonged war — Causes of Manchn success — AV retched condition of China — Manchn army — Conciliatory measures — Popular reforms — (^onquest of India compared — End of AVii San-kuei and Dorgun . 21

CHAPTER 111.

HISTORY (continued).

Slmncliih — Dutch embassy — Kotow — Human sacrifice — Emperor Kaughi — T’uugcheng — Kienlung — His cruelty — Defeats the Ghurkas — Receives Earl of Macartney — Chiaching — Lord Amherst's Embassy — Effeminacy of later Emperors — Taokuang — First war with England— Its causes — Chinese outrages — Mandarins’ support of the opium trade — Lin’s oppressive measures — Operations of 'vv^ai* — Treaty — Macaulay’s speech — Mr. Gladstone’s — Hsien-feng — The Taeping rebellion — Successes of the insurgents — AVard's ‘ Ever* victorious army’ — General Gordon — Second war with England — A^eh — Lord- Elgin sent to China — Treachery of Chinese — Summer Palace destroyed— Elgin’s treaty — Tungchih — A cokj) d'etat — Prince Kung — ■

The Empresses — A'unnan rebellion — Kuang Hsii — The Empress-Regent— Prince Clihin — Li Hung Chang — Reconquest of Sungaria and Kashgar — The Kuldja question — Dispute with the French — Chefoo convention — Recent English treaties with China — Present policy of China — Bad results of Nurhachu’s policy in Alanchuria — Brigandage —Gang robbery — Suppression of gambling — Corruption of mandarins — Improvement in Alanchuria — Poy a rkotf explores the Amur — Russian navigation prohibited on the Amur — Expeditious of the Russians — Alouravieff — Ignatieff’ — Russian annexations — Hopes of China and Russia in regard to Alanchuria ^ (12

CHAPTER lAA

THE PEOPLE.

Population of Alanchuria — Small proportion of Alanchus — AVhere Alanchus are generally found — Explanation of rareness of Alanchus — Chinese influence — Two teachers imported — Alanchu religion — ' Shamanism — A dress reform- -AVomen’s feet — Official buttons — Alarriage — Slavery — Privileges of Alanchus — Exercises of Alanchu youths — Banner-men, their organisation and distribution — Abuses — European drill — The Liih-ying army — Arms — Conservatism — (Corruption and waste in the army — Chinese language — Alanchu language— Chinese garments — Ladies’ dresses — Sceptre — Ear gloves — Hats — Shoes — Dwelling-houses — Inns — K‘angs — Paper window-panes — Food and drink — Furniture — Coffins — Cemeteries — Politeness of upper classes — Troublesome curiosity — A disgusting habit — Chinese Mahommedans and their mosques — Corean settlers — Corean costume — Encouragement of Corean settlers — Corean alphabet . 107

CHAPTER V.

ADMINISTRATION.

Tsung-tu, or Governor-General — Chiang-Chiin, or Military Governors — Business of Governor-General — Boards — High Court — Chinese system replacing Manchu in Feng-t‘ien — Grades of officials — District magistrates — Their duties — Description of a court — Civil justice — System in Kirin and Hei-lung-chiang — Inefficiency of Manchu military officers — Headmen of villages — Municipalities — Crime — Treatment of culprits — Cruelty and uncertainty of punishments — Torture — Civil and military police — Appeals — Extortion — Mandarins underpaid— Land tax — Poll tax — Salt monopoly — Tax on sales — Transit dues — Tax on distilleries — Tribute of furs — Maritime Customs — Imports in 1866 and 1885 compared — The opium trade — Moral aspects of opium — Large growth of opium — Decree against opium — Taxes on opium — Room for more English imports into Manchuria — ‘American ’ drills — Junk trade — Reforms needed in the administration , . 118

CHAPTER VI.

RELIGION.

Extract from Kingsley’s ‘ Heroes ’ — Applicable to the people of Manchuria— Three religious cults — Buddhism — Confucianism — Taoism — Collection of gods in a temple of Buddha — Ancestor worship — Neglected temples — Local and tutelary deities — Roadside shrines — Sample of a countryman’s prayer — Worship of animals and animal characteristics — A medium — An exorcist — Worship of disease — Other objects of worship — Feng-shui — Rural superstiticns — Progress of Christian faith — Roman Catholic missionaries — Verrolles — Venault — De la Bruniere — Boyer — Mortality amongst missionaries — Dubail — Roman Catholic churches — Absence of images — Attitude of priests towards mandarins — Orphanages — Training — Statistics of conversion — English Presbyterian Mission — Irish Presbyterian Mission— Scotch Presbyterian Mission — Medical Mission — Medical statistics— Refuge for opium-r'smokers — Valuable work — Meeting-houses — Difficulties in mission work — Success — General remarks on missionaries xviii

CHAPTER VII.

YINGTZO TO MOUKDEN AND MAO-ERH-SIIAN.

TAGB

Arrival at Yingtzu. — Newchwang — Foreign settlement on the Liao — > Audacious thieves — Joined by Fulford — Carts in Manchuria —

‘ Rattler ’ — Our servants — Baggage — Money — Rate of discount —

Plan of route — Reach Moukden — Chinese inns — Opium-smoking —

Inn charges — Insects — Moukden — Tomb of Nurliachu — Tomb of Tai Tsung — Chinese banking transactions — Hiring mules — Start from Moukden — The valley of the Hwun — Yung-ling — Shingking — Settlers — The scenery — Hsin-min-pu — T‘ung-hua-hsien — Chinese horse-dealings — Flooding of the Hun-chiang — Three months’ rain — Timber rafts — A roadside inn — Picture of the God of Wealth — Botanising — Pheasant shooting — Accident to Fulford — Primitive coal-pits and iron-foundry — Difficulties and accidents on the route — Mao-erh-shan — Garrison — Corean cultivators — Converts — Midges and gadflies — Chinese system of loading mules — ‘ The lunatic ’ mule — System of travel . . . . . . . . .215

CHAPTER VIII. ch‘ang-pai-shan mountains.

Progress up the Yalu Valley impossible — Pack-road to Hun-chffin — Gold-washers — Fording the T^ang Ho — Camping-out in the forest — A tiger-trap — An obstruction in the road — Difficult situation — Arrival at the head-quarters of a guild — Admission refused — The midges — An account of the guilds — Legislation — Gathering opium — The Old White Mountain — Fording a mountain torrent — A Manchu fisherman — Fulford meets a bear — Preparations for the sable season — A sable-trap — Deer-trap — Mushrooms — Source of the Sungari — Ascent of the White Mountain — The scenery — Flowers —

The lake — The Erh-tao-chiang — The neighbourhood — Another route to Hun-chCm — Du Halde’s account of the White Mountain — The Jesuits’ visit — Oumoune — Palladius’ account— The Emperor Kienlung's — Pere Amyot’s — Botanical results — Birds — Butterflies . . 247

CHAPTER IX.

T‘ANG-H0-K‘0U to KIRIN.

A snake story — Wild and cultivated ginseng — Useful trees — Another flood down the Sungari — Rapacity of Chinese boatmen — A fine heronry — Difficulties of the road — The Erh-tao-chiang — Gold-washing— Murder on the highway — Rural theatricals — Kirin — Unpleasant quarters — Vegetables and fruit — Pere Verbiest’s account — Situation of Kirin — Diagram for averting fires — Filthy market-place

CONTENTS

XIX

I’AGK

— Telegraph office — Chang San sent to the coast for supplies — Arsenal — Machinery and arms — Powder-mill — Selecting recruits — Dinner with Mr. Sung — Smart young signaller — Town magistrate — Fictitious letters of introduction — Temples at Lung Tan Shan — Mahommedan families at Kirin — Absorption of isolated religious communities . . ......... 271

CHAPTER X.

KIRIN TO TSITSIHAE.

An obliging banker — Gold ingots — Engage carts — Piece-work v. daily wages — Obstinacy of mules — A bad start — Timber at Chiachan — Wuluk'ai — Temple to the phoenix — IIsi-la-Ho — Gateway through palisades — The old bed of the Sungari — Brigands on their way to execution — Arrival at Petuna — Illness of Chu-hsiu — Painful remedies— Temple and frescoes at Petuna — Mosquitoes — Manchurian cranes — Difficulties in crossing the Sungari — Island — Shui-shih A'ingtzu — Accident to Younghusband — Antelopes — Jerboa rat — Bustards — A Mongol palace — Road to Tsitsihar — Buddhist tombs — Chinese aversion to milk — Nai-p‘i, or cream-cheese — Lama form of religion — Check against over-population — Couriers — Anecdote of the Russian police — The Archimandrite Palladius — Ancient fortifications — First view of Tsitsihar — A p^nilou^-Neglected coffins — Concrete flat roofs — Gabled roofs — Scene in a banker’s parlour — A disagreeable inn — Convicts — An unpleasant custom — Soldiers drilling- -A funeral — Change of plans — Country north of Tsitsihar . . . 290

CHAPTER XI.

TSITSIHAR TO SANSING.

The steppe — Artemisia plant — Soda and other salts — Primitive method of extracting soda — Wolves — A sad story — A Mongol cottage — Mongol children — Hsiao-chia-tien — Hulan — Manufacture of cart-wheels— Donkey’s flesh — A terrible massacre — Pei-lin-tzu — Wild-goose shooting — Brigands in the road — The Chrdtient^ — The priest’s room — A victim of opium-smoking — Deep wells — Fortifications against brigands — A curious weapon — Harvest — Pa-yen-shu-shu —

M. Raguit — M. Card — Home-made wine — Hsiao-shih Ho — M. Riffard — Experiences of brigands — Our escort — Extortion — Verdict of I'luropeans on the Chinese — Sport near Pa-yen-shu-shu — An ancient plate — Low degrees of temperature — Wise colonists — Good pheasant-shooting— Fowls of the mist — Our landlord and the brigands — Arrival at Sansiug . . , . . . . . . .310

XX

CHAPTER XIT.

SxVNSING TO NINGUTA AND HUN-CH‘UN,

PAGK

Situation of Sansing — Population — Fort and barracks — Gold-miuing by tbe Government — Theatricals in the market-place — Fish at Sansing — Sturgeon — Difliculties of the road — Accident to a cart — Sceneryup the Hurka — Tamaha salmon — Curious modes of fishing — Cantonment at Yeh-ho — Ninguta — ‘Mr. Gladstone’ — Theatre at Ninguta — Start for Hun-ch‘uu — Cold weather — Edible pines — Lao-sung-ling — Black game — Valley of the Tumen — Mi-chiang — Lieutenant- General 1 330

CHAPTER XIH.

NOVO-KIEVSK.

Forts at Hun-ch‘un — Weapons of the garrisDn — Huge banners — Russian Frontier — Cossack outpost — Colonel Sokolowski — Service and pay of Cossacks — Russian and Chinese Frontier Commission — Russians and brigands — Russians, English, and Orientals — Novo-kievsk — Possiet Harbour — Colonists — Coreans — Greek church — The pope —

M. Methuen — Diner cl la Eusse — Russian alarmists . . . 347

CHAPTER XIV. hun-ch‘un to pa-chia-tzu.

Short cut to Omoso — Visit from the Fu-tu-t‘ung — His costume — Early rising — English and Chinese boots — A cold journey — More barracks — Difficulties of transport — Ha-la-pa Ling Pass — Head sources of the Hurka — Tung-o-kang-tzu — Autun— Chang-tsai Ling Pass — Brigands — I<a-pa-la-tzii Hill — Hai-ching Ling — Lao-yeh Ling — Reach Kirin — Tung-ching cheng — The Plain of Stone — Chang San’s adventure with brigands — Second visit to Mr. Sung — Another Chinese dinner — A remedy for toothache — A second Lao-yeh Ling — More brigands— Collection of p‘ailous— Busy sight on the roads— Khianch‘eng-tzii— Temple to Lao-yeh— Temple to Buddha— Inscription at a mosque — Presbyterian chapel — Roman Catholic settlement — Priests at Pa-chia-tzu — Mass 357

CHAPTER XV.

PA-CHIA-TZU TO PORT ARTHUR.

An inn on fire— The Ma-t‘ien-tai Men Gate— A frozen fog— The Kai-yuan pagoda — A bridge — A coffin in transit Curious superstitions —Tieh-ling— Floods in Liao-tung— Chinese service at the Mission coyruyTs

XXI

IIou=e — Pere Oonraiix’s affray -with soldiers — Massacre at Tientsin Itesidence of the Presbyterians — Hospital of the Medical Mission — Iffongol idol’s temple — Shopping — Delicacies — Long finger-nails — College at Shading — Hot-springs at T^ang-kang-tzu — Hai-cli‘eng — Christmas Day in China — The party breaks up — Manufacture of salt — Result of Feng-shui — Sha-k‘ou — Buddhist cave — A silk filatory — Invasion by pirates — Firewood plantations — Oysters — Ancient forts — Tiger Mountain — Port Arthur — Naval and militar}^ establishments— Foreign policy of the Chinese — Return to Shanghai — Conclusion ............ 381

APPENDICES.

Note A. India, China, and Nepal 418

„ B. Opium 418

„ C. Imperial Decree against Official Corruption . . 421

„ D. Journeys of M. de la Bruniere and M. Venault . . 423

„ E. Conversions by the Blind Man of T‘ai-ping-k‘ou . 44G

„ F. The Long White Mountain 451

„ G. Plants collected on the Journey .... 455

„ H. Itinerary 464

INDEX 473

LIST OF ILLUSTEATIONS

FULL-PA GE ILL VSTEA TIONS.

page:

Lake Lung-wang Tan, on the Summit of the Long White Mountain, 7,500 Feet above the Sea. After a Sketch by Lieutenant F. E. Younghusband . . . Frontispiece

A Pagoda To face 9

The Great Wall of China 39

P‘AILOU AT THE PeI-LING, THE EmPEROR TaI TsUNG’S ToMB,

A Manchu Prince — His Highness Prince Ch‘un, Father

OF His Majesty the Emperor of China . . . „ 91

Approach to the Governor-General’s Palace at Moukden

— a Deer-horn Fence in the Foreground . . . „ 149

Temple of the Fox, Moukden „ 190

South Entrance to the Fu-ling, the Tomb of Nurhachu,

Founder of the Manchu Dynasty „ 226

Street in a Chinese Town 377

Buddhist Cave Temple in the Mountain of the Sages . „ 396

ILLUSTRATIONS IN TEXT.

A Solon Manchu Y'outh 25

L.ama Monument outside Moukden 67

'A Manchu Bow and Arrows 118

A Eu-i OR Sceptre 132

Manchu Shoes 134

Entrance to a Family Graveyard ....... 140

LIST OF illustrations xxiii

PAGE

Temple to the God of Literature, on the City Wall, Moukden 183

A Buddhist Priest 185

A Koadside Shrine 188

A Long Cart, with Small Mixed Team 217

Pagoda South of Moukden . . . 222

Interior of an Inn 235

A CoREAN Fisherman 252

Outside a Pawnshop . 277

Mongol Lama’s Tomb at Chiu-shan Men, on the Steppe between

Petuna and Tsitsihar 300

Ornamental Tile from a Mongol Lama’s Tomb . . . . 301

Ornament from a Tile on a Mongol Lama’s Tomb . . . 309

An Oil-cart 312

A Chinese Carpenter 316

A Bridge 335

A CoREAN Cart 353

A CoREAN Bracelet 856

A Corner of an Inn Yard 373

Pagoda at Kai-yuan 383

Baby Friends 389

A Wayside Monument 393

A Gravestone 402

Bottle of Lang-yao Porcelain 412

OBSEBVANDA.

a is pronounced as the a in father.

ai „ „ aye.

ao „ as in how.

e „ as the vowel sound in earth.

ei „ as in money with the n omitted.

erh „ „ burr or purr.

i „ as the voAvel sound in ease or tree.

ih „ „ „ „ cliick.'

in „ „ „ „ chin.

i‘9 „ » M M thing.

ia ,, as in the Italian piazza.

iao see i and ao.

in „ eeyew or eeoo.

o „ as in holloa.

ou „ „ the ow in burrow.

ii „ „ the French euf, tu.

n „ ,, the 00 in too,

vei „ as the vowel sounds in the French jouer.

7ia ,, as in Juan, nearly ooar.

u „ something between the i in bit and the u in shut.

ch „ as in chair.

hs „ „ hissing if the first i is dropped.

j „ nearly the French j as in jaune.

k „ as in king.

sh „ ,, shall.

The insertion of an apostrophe reversed after a consonant signifies that that consonant is asj)irated.

Chuang means a village or hamlet.

ClFeng „

a walled town.

T-un „

a village or settlement.

T‘ai „

a stage or military post.

Shan „

a mountain.

Ling „

a mountain pass.

Ho

a river.

Chiang „

a large river.

K‘ou ,,

the junction of one or more rivers ; mountain pass.

Tien „

an inn.

Tzil

a dissyllal'.ic partie’e, to which no attached ; also a son.

Pei „

north.

Nrn „

south.

Tung „

east.

Hsi „

Avest.

Ch‘ang „

long.

Ta

great.

Hsiao ,,

little, small.

Pai „

white.

Hei

black.

I a copper- alloy

coin, valued at about six to one fan bin

meaning can be

• ‘Tael’ is a Chinese ounce of silver, varying in weight and value according to locality and the price of silver ; the present value may be taken at 4s. lOd.

‘ Li’ is a Chinese mile, almost exact’y one-third of an Fnglish mile.

‘K‘ang’ is a brick platform, warmed by flues, in the interior of a house, used for eating, resting, and sleeping.

CHAPTEE I.

INTRODUCTORY.

Programme of the voyage — We reach Yingtzu or Newchwaag — Position of Manchuria — Its boundaries — Its three provinces — Extent of the country — Colonisation by Chinese — Manchuria a highland country — Mountains — Rivers — Barriers for transit-dues — Different names for the same place

— Survey by the Jesuits — Description of towns — AValls of towns — Military stations — Plan of towns — Architecture — Yamens — Temples

— Pagodas — P^ailous — Pawnshops — Signposts — Roads — Fertile soil — Crops — Contrast between Indian ryots and Chinese — Varieties of millet — Uses of great millet — Small millet — Good fodder — Golden millet — • Other crops — Bean-curd — Bean-oil — Vegetables — Fruits — Timber — Ginseng — Deer-horns — Minerals — F urs — Manufact ures — Climate — Difhculties of transport — Telegraphs — Money — Cash — Cumbersome currency — Local notes — Silver shoes — Money-changers — Mint — Passports.