Life on the plains and among the diggings : being scenes and adventures of an overland journey to California ; with particular incidents of the route, mistakes and sufferings of the emigrants, the Indian tribes, the present and the future of the great West

Front matter

NYPL RESEARCH LIBRARIES

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THE

Chapter I

Unexpected era in life — Company formed at Dayton, Ohio — Departure to St. Joseph — On the Missouri — Brown — Boat Embassy — Crowded emigration — Death by cholera and burial of a young Virginian — Indian Territory — Safe arrival of cattle at St. Joseph — Death by cholera and burial of Harris— Chill and Fever — Harney's Landing — Ferry across the Missouri — Indian country — Timber land — Panorama Plains — Our seventeen wagons — Fifty Ottawa men — Great and Little Namaha. 18

CHAPTER IL

Rolling prairie — An old pioneer — Strangers with mules and ponies — White men and Indian — Indian theft and deception — Prairie — Grass and water — Thunder shower at night — Mistake of the day — Spoiled bacon — Dividing ridge — The two Xamahas — Broken country — Out of the way — Crossing the Great Namaha — Bridge built and crossed — "Westward — Tributary of the Little Namaha — Severe thunder shower at night — "Wyeth's Run — Hall's Ford — Unknown stream — Pioneer Green — Absentee — South-west course — Crossed the stream — Signs of Buffalo. . . , 23

VI, CONTENTS.

CHAPTER m.

Big Ifamalia — Lost run — The Big Blue — Dry -weed fuel — No -water — Prairie dogs — Onion family — Table land — S. S. Course — Road found — Nineteen days on Prairie — Companies of gold-seekers — Little Blue — Sand hills — Valley of the Platte — Muddy Missouri — Fort Kearny — St, Joseph road united — Colder atmosphere — Meeting old friends -~ Captain Tutt — Indian company — Fort — "Willow — Severe rain storm 42

CHAPTER IV. ..:*

A change for the better — Islands in the Platte — Indian robbe- ' . , ' '

ry — South Bend company — Terrible storm and great loss • -'^^

of cattle — Forks of the Platte — Buffalo — Meeting Friends . ;" •'

— Buffalo meat — Fording the river -» Men lost — "Washing ^ ^* ' day — Serious results of a joke — Indian village and bury- •./ . ing ground — Tindall's grave — Smith Creek — Court-House . ^ Rock — Chimney Rock — The "post-office" — Unexpected meeting — Emigrant trains — Picturesque valley — Scott's . ^ Bluffs 63 .1

CHAPTER V.

Laramie Peak — Laramie River — Fort Laramie — South Bend

company — "Warm Springs — Cold "Water Creek — Division '

of the company — Horse Creek and Riola Bonta — Black •,'

Hills — Crow Indians — Rock Ridge — A beautiful creek — *'■■

Alkaline district — Colonel Joseph "Watkins — A sublime Government — Poison water — Dead cattle — Ferry over the North Platte 76

CHAPTER VI.

Over the North Platte — "Wagon on the current — Mule trains

— Sand-stone cone — Antelopes and wolves — Dry pond — Saleratus — Poison water — encampment — immense number of emigrants — The red Buttes — Sand Rock — "Willow

CONTENTS. Vll

PA6B.

Spring — Timely hospitality — Independence Rock — Sweet Water River — Intense heat — Perpendicular rock — River through the chasm — Devil's Gate — Shooting a desperado- Myriads of crickets 90

CHAPTER VII.

Valley of the Sweet "Water — Wind River — Toils of the emigrant — Rencounter threatened — Ice in the desert — Prairie dogs, antelope and mountain sheep — "All is not gold that glitters" — Trading post — Fraudulent post-office — A beautiful prospect — Ascent to the South Pass — Face of the country — Great numbers of dead cattle — suffering of the emigrants — An old settler — A man accidentally shot — South Pass — Over the mountains — A last look homeward Disbanding of trains 103

CHAPTER Vm.

Leaving South Pass — Little and Dry Sandy Rivers — Passage by Sublett's cut-off — Hardships in the desert — Green River — Re-union of old friends at the Fei'ry — Brutal murder — Search for the criminal — Irregular jury trial — Independence day — Unpleasant incidents — A welcome shade — Bear River — Camp of Snake Indians — Rough traveling — Face of the country — Mountain Indians and traders — Game 118

CHAPTER IX.

Hunting Excursion — Mountain scenery — Bear River Valley — Beer Springs — Mineral Springs — Visit to the craters of two extinguished volcanoe3 — Lindley's misfortune — River Nenf

— Arrival at Fort Hall — Panack River — Trading with the Indians — Mule train from Oregon — Valley of Raft River

— Large snake — The author gets lost — His suffering for water — Return — Vallev of Goose Creek 185

VIU CONTENTS.

CHAPTER X.

Hot Spring Valley — Post-office — Destitute Emigrants — Chill and fever — A party of Digger Indians — Anecdotes — The great basin — Humboldt, or Mary's River — Wild fowl — Appetite and provisions — News from the Platte — Sickness and abandonment of Mr. Ware — Incidents by the way — Indian depredations — Mary's River — Night travel — More trouble from the Indians — wolves — sleeping in the open air 154

CHAPTER XI.

Broken Surface of the country — Visit to Lieut. Thompson's camp — Col. Kinkead — Bad news from the Sink — Pastimes

— Left the Humboldt River — Journey over the desert — Sufferings for want of grass and water — A mother's affection

for her child — The oasis in the desert — Hot springs 172

CHAPTER XII.

Hot springs — Applegate's route — Onward over the desert — More Indian theft — In pui'suit of the Indians — Distressing reports from the desert — Quantities of dead cattle and horses— Remarkable curiosity — Canon through the mountains

— Standing sentry — Travelers from Oregon — Lake of salt water — Fresh beef 187

CHAPTER Xin.

The Sierra Nevada in sight — Dry bed of a lake — Excursion to the mountains — Narrow escape from an Indian's arrow- Mountain scenery — Crossing the mountain — Salt Lake — Pitt River — A hill of magnesia — Mount Shasta — A noble act of relief — Magazine Rock — Heroic fight with the Indians

— Adventure among the Indians 201

CHAPTER XIV.

Leaving the valley of Pitt River — False alarm — Good forage —Feather Creek — Timely hospitality from a brother Odd-

CONTENTS. IX

PAQK.

fellow — An under-ground river — Game — Cooking a beef Bteak — Prospecting for gold — Venison — Effects of starvation — Deer Creek — Starting alone for the valley of the Sacramento— Incidents by the way — The valley in sight — Sensations — CoL Davis' house — Lawson's Settlement — Prices of provisions — Emigrants 217

CHAPTER XV.

Sufferings of the emigrants on the journey in the fall of 1849 and 1850 — 'Destitution — Cholera — Employments in the mines — ^Narrative continued — Arrival in the valley — Broken contracts — Separation — In pursuit of supplies — Indians at the Eanches 284

CHAPTER XVI.

Arrival at Sutter's Fort — Plans for the future — Meet Captain Greene and Doctor Angel — Friendly aid — Sacramento City

— Departure for the mines — Bear River — Cayotes — Yuba River — Arrival at the mines — Sickness — Success in trade

— Return for more goods 249

CHAPTER XVn.

Hardships of the miners — Unexpected meeting with Colonel Watkins — Kindness of Doctor Morse — Doctor Patrick — Crossing the Yuba River — Sickness — Severe rains — Theft, and its cause — Returning from the mines — Melancholy death of Mr. Chipman 268

CHAPTER XVm.

Trouble with the Indians on the South Fork — Fate of Mr. Henderson on the North Fork of the Platte — His wife and children— Prospecting for gold — The result — Disappointed hopes, and failures — Getting rid of the Indians — Mr. Turner— Melancholy incidents *. 272

X CONTENTS.

CHAPTER XIX.

Stolen cattle — Rapid growth of cities and villages — Speculation— Uncertainty of titles — Sacramento City — Its gambling houses — Refinement — Great flood — Crayon sketches— A speculation in town lots — The Indians 286

CHAPTER XX.

Influence over the Indians — Their character and habits — Burial rites — Affection for the dead — Their language — Food — Selection of marriage partners — Government — Dress — Their propensity to gamble 295

CHAPTER XXI.

Disposition and character of the Indians — Their honesty — Cruelty and injustice of the whites — Incidents — Their confidence— Number of wives — Anecdotes — Their final extermination 309

CHAPTER XXII.

Peter the hunter — At the battle of "Waterloo — His adventures — His daughters — Jim Beckwith — His daring act among the Blackfeet, and escape — Southern Indians — Influence of the Catholic missions — Change of quarters — Miners in search of the Golden Lake — The result 821

CHAPTER XXIII.

Departure for the Gold Lake country — Mexican muleteers, and pack mules — A California lion — Arrival at Grass Valley— Settlers and gamblers — A quarrel — ioss of mules — Sublime mountain scenery — Onion Valley — Difficult descent from the mountains — mules precipitated down the steep banks — Arrival and settlement at Independence — Uncertainty of business operations at the mines — A storm — Sudden departure of the miners — A losing business 834

CONTENTS. XI

CHAPTER XXIV.

Nelson's Creek — Independence bar — The climate — Mountain life — Struggles of the miners — their disappointments — Population — Mining life — Gambling and dissipation — Horrible murder — Robberies — Yolcanic remains — Change of Location — New acquaintances — Departure for San Francisco 347

CHAPTER XXV.

Arrival at San Francisco — Admission of California as a State — Excitement and rejoicing of the citizens — State of the country — Indignation at the delays of Congress in admitting her into the Union — The need of laws — Previous good order of the inhabitants — Commencement of crime — Particular cases of crime — Insecurity of life and property — Indignation of the citizens — Bold robbery and apprehension of the criminals — Execution of Stuart and "Wildred — Public sentiment — Immense meeting on the plaza — The Vigilance committee of San Francisco — Execution of Jenkins — Resolutions to establish the People's Court — Salutary efifects, 356

CHAPTER XXVI.

Resources of California — Uncertainty of mining — Probable extent of the gold region — Where gold is usually found — Hints to persons prospecting — Talc beds — ^Auriferous quartz veins — Cause of failure in mining — Crushing the rock and separating it from the gold — The Chilian mill — Process of separation — The mines inexhaustible — Enterprise of the Miners 8Y2

CHAPTER XXVII.

California — Her resources — JMineral wealth — Climate — Tillable land in the valleys — Richness of the soil — Productions — "Water-power — Timber — Rapid increase of population — Health — Conclusion ; 881 f ifi; 011 t\}t llaitts.

CHAPTER I.

UNEXPECTED ERA IN LIFE COMPANY FOKMED AT DAYTON, OHIO DEPAR- TURE TO ST. JOSEPH OX THE MISSOURI BROWN BOAT EMBASSY

CROWDED EMIGRATION DEATH BY CHOLERA AND BURIAL OF A YOUNG

VIRGINIAN INDIAN TERRITORY SAFE ARRIVAL OF CATTLE AT ST. JO- SEPH DEATH BY CHOLERA AND BURL\L OF HARRIS CHILL AND FEVER

HARNEY's landing FERRY ACROSS THE MISSOURI — INDIAN COUNTRY

TIMBER LAND PANORAMA PLAINS OUR SEVENTEEN WAGONS — ^FIFTY

OTTAWA MEN GREAT AND LITTLE NAMAHA.

Ninety days previous to the 5th of April, 1849, had any one told me that I should be a traveler upon the wild wastes between the Missouri river and the Pacific ocean, I should have looked upon it as an idle jest ; but circumstances, which frequently govern the course of men in the journey of life, were brought to bear upon me ; and on the day above named, I became a nomad denizen of the world, and a new and important era of my life began.

My constitution had suffered sad im-oads by disease incident to western climate, and my physician frankly told me, that a change of residence and more bodily exertion was absolutely necessary to effect a radical change in my system — in fact, that my life depended upon such a change, and I finally concluded to adopt his advice. About this time, the astonishing accounts of the vast deposits of gold in California reached us, and besides the fever of the body, I was suddenly seized with the fever of mind for gold ; and m hopes of receivuig a speedy cure for the ills both of body and mind, I turned my attention " westward ho !" and immediately commenced making arrangements for my departm'e. A company had been fonned at Dayton, a few miles above Ottawa, under the command of Captain Jesse Greene, for the purpose of crossmg the plains, and I resolved to jom it. Our general rendezvous was to be at St. Joseph, on the Missouri, from wliich we intended to take oui* departure. I had engaged men, purchased cattle and a wagon, and subsequently laid in my supplies for the trip, at St. Louis. My wagon I shipped by water to St. Joseph, and sent my cattle across the country about the middle of March, to meet me at the place of rendezvous, in April.

. Ail things being m readiness, on the day first named, I bid iadieu to my family and to Ottawa, and proceeded to St. Louis on the steamer Revolution, and there took passage for St. Joseph on the Embassy. The companions of my mess were Messrs. J. H. Fredenburg, Matthew Harris, and Eben Smith, from Ottawa — the two last I had engaged to take across the plains, on condition of their assistance during the journey, and half they should make for one year from the time we left home — ^a contract which was then common. We were jomed on our trip up the river by a young man named Hobert Bro"wii, who was looking out for some opportunity of going to California, and who was proceeding to St. Joseph for this purpose.

There was a great crowd of adventurers on the Embassy. Nearly every State in the Union was represented. *Every berth was full, and not only every settee and table occupied at

ON THE MISSOURI. 15

night, but the cabm floor was covered by the sleeping emigrants. The decks were covered with wagons, mules, oxen, and mining implements, and the hold was filled mth supplies. But this was the condition of every boat — for since the invasion of Rome by the Goths, such a deluge of mortals had not been witnessed, as was now pourmg from the States to the various pomts of departure for the golden shores of California. Visions of sudden and immense wealth were dancing in the immaginations of these anxious seekers of fortunes, and I must confess that I was not entirely fi"ee from such dreams ; and like our sage statesmen, cogitating upon the condition of the National Treasury, with the extinguishment of the National Debt, under the administration of General Jackson, I wondered what I should do with all the money wliich must necessarily come into my pocket ! Our first day out was spent in these pleasing reflections, and the song and the jest went round with glee — while the toil, the dangers, and the hardships, yet to come, were not thought of, for they were not yet imderstood. But they were understood soon enough, nous verrons. On the second day, amid the gaities of our motley crowd, a voice was heard, whi^h at once checked the soimd of mirth, and struck with alarm the stoutest heart — "the cholera is on board!" For a moment all voices were hushed — each looked in another's face in mute mquiry, expecting, perhaps, to see a victim in his neighbor. " The cholera *? Gracious Heaven ! How? — where? Who has got it T' — and from that moment anxiety prevailed — for who could tell that he might not become a victim 1 At length calmness gamed the ascendency, and excitement passed away ; but the subdued tones of those who had been the most gay, attested the interest which they felt in the melancholy announcement. A young gentleman, belonging to a company from Virginia, who had indulged in some imprudence in eatmg and drinking, while at St. Louis, was the subject of attack ; and although every attention was rendered which skill and science could give, the symptoms grew worse, and he expired at ten o'clock on the morinng after he was taken ill.

It was a melancholy spectacle, to see one who had left home with high hopes of success, so prematurely stricken down ; and although he had no mother near him to soothe his last anguish, or weep over his distress, he w^as surrounded by friends who were ready and willmg to yield any assistance to mitigate his pain. Lideed, there was not a man on board, whose heart did not yearn to do something for the suff*erer. Preparations weje made for his interment ; and a little before sunset the boat w^as stopped, to give us, his companions, an opportunity to bury him.

It was in a gorge, between two lofty hills, where a spot was selected for his grave. A bright gi'een sward spread over the gentle slope, and under a cluster of trees his grave was dug by strangers. A procession was formed by all the passengers, which, with a solemnity the occasion demanded, proceeded to the grave, where an intimate friend of the deceased read the Episcopal burial service, throughout which there was a drizzling rain, yet every hat was removed, in respect to the memory of a fellow passenger, and in reverence to God. How little can we foresee our own destiny ! Instead of turning up the golden sands of the Sacramento, the spade of the adventurer was first used to bury the remams of a companion and friend.

A tedious passage of ten days brought us, on the 19th, to St. Joseph, where we learned that the Dayton company, which had preceded us, had left that day, with the intention of moving up the river to some other point for crossing into the Indian

DEA.TH OF HARRIS. 17

Territory, where they would halt until the grass was sufficiently advanced to afford forage for our cattle, and which would give us ample time to overtake them before settmg out from the land of civilization, on our arduous journey across the plains. I also heard that my cattle had arrived safely, and were waiting, under the charge of Henderson, about a day's journey in the country ; and I dispatched Smith to notify Henderson of our arrival, and to bring them in. Our goods and wagon were soon landed, and as every public house in town was crowded by eniigrants to overflowing, (ha\Tng a portable cooking stove,) we slept and messed in our wagon, in one of the back streets ; and up to Sunday night, all were enjoying our usual health.

About four o'clock on Monday morning, we were awakened by groans, and cries of distress, from the outside of our wagon. "Who is that? — what is the matter?" I exclaimed, starting from a sound sleep. " Who is sick 1 "

" It must be Mr. Harris," said Brown, " for he is not in here." We sprang out, and indeed found poor Harris, wTithing and agonized, under an attack of cholera. I immediately gave him a large dose of laudanum, the only palliative we had at hand, and dispatched a messenger for a physician. He was violently taken with the worst symptoms, but within an hour was midergoing regular treatment from a skillfiil physician. For about three hours he suffered mtense pain, wiith vomiting, purging, cramps, and cold exti'emities, while a clammy sweat started from every pore. During the day we moved him to a more quiet and secluded spot, and his symptoms became more favorable. The evacuations and vomitings ceased, his limbs became warm, his eye brightened, and he thought, as we did, that he was better. He remained in this state about three hours, during which we continued our exertions in rubbing him, and making the applications ad\dsed by the physician, when all looked upon him as out of danger. Suddenly, and without any warning, he began to gasp for breath, and in five rnmutes lay a corpse before us. We could scarcely credit our senses. He, who but the night before bid as fair to live as any one of us — he, who passed the good natured jest with us, in the fullness of health and strength, now lay extended, an inanimate mass of clay, " one of the things that were." Alas ! it was too true, and our friend had " gone to that bourn, from which no traveler returns."

We laid him out on the ground decently, and as well as our slender means would allow, and Brown and myself lay near him that night, keeping a melancholy watch by the light of our camp fire, over the remains of our companion and friend. If an honest, well-meaning man ever lived, poor Harris was one and his simple habits, and virtuous inclinations, had endeared him to us all. We dug his gi-ave ourselves, in the morning, and with no tolling bell to mark the sad requiem, we buried him in a cluster of trees, by the side of a beautiful rivulet.

My wagon-top had received some injury when getting it on board at St. Louis, and while repairmg it, after the sad duty of burying !Mr. Harris, Henderson and Smith arrived with the cattle, and by Wednesday morning we were ready to pursue our journey. Bro-^Ti was installed in Harris' place, and under the direction of Mr. Fredenburg the party started off to follow the track of the Dayton company, wliile I remained to get letters, which might be forwarded to St. Joseph by the mail of the following day. I may say here that in this we were disappointed, for no letters came, and it was ten months before we received the first word from our friends at home. While I was at work repairing my wagon, the day was very warm, and

CHILL AND FEVER. 19

being unaccustomed to labor, when night came, I went early to bed, at a house where I had obtained lodgings, exhausted by the fatigues of the last few days. Before I got to sleep, I felt strangely. Was there a change in the weather 1 I could not get warm. I piled on more clothes. I felt as if I was in an ice-house. Ugh ! the cold chills were creeping along my back I involuntarily drew up my knees, and put my head under the bed clothes, but to no purpose — I was shivering, freezing, and then so thirsty ! — I wanted a stream of ice-water running down my throat. At length I began to grow warm, warmer ; then hot, hotter, hottest. I felt like a mass of living fire — a perfect engine, without the steam and smoke. There seemed to be wood enough from some source, but I poured in water till I thought my boiler would burst, without allaying the raging thirst which consumed me. At last the fever ceased, and then, indeed, the steam burst in a condensed form tlu-ough the pores of my burning skm, and my body was bathed in a copious perspiration, that left me as weak as any " sucking dove." I had had a visit from my old friends, chill and fever.

Thursday came, and I felt too ill to ride. I lay up to dry ; but on Friday morning I went through another baptism of fire and water, the ceremony of which closed about noon. Determined to be with my friends if I was doomed to be sick, and as our medicines were in the wagon, I mounted the pony. Old Shabanay, which had been left for me, and although so weak that I could hardly keep my seat, I started. I soon found my strength increase in the fine air, and when I reached Savannah, a pretty town fourteen miles above St. Joseph, I felt quite well, though weak.

On Saturday morning, I made the chief part of my breakfast from blue pill, and started off in pursuit of my wagon, which I overtook in a ride of ten miles. Suspecting my illness, the company had driven slowly, in order to let me overtake them. On Sunday we reached English Grove, sixty-live miles above St. Joseph, where we learned that the Dayton company had resolved to cross the Missouri at a ferry just established, called Harney's Landing, and remain on the opposite bank until it was ascertained that there was sufficient grass for the cattle, and then take an obscure route, over which only one train had passed, about four years previous, and strike the St. Joseph and Platte road at a point which it was said would put us in advance of the St. Joseph and Independence trains, at least ten davs.

Feeling that it was absolutely necessary for me to lay up and nurse myself^ and as there was plenty of time to overtake the train, while the boys went on with the wagon, I made the acquaintance of Mr. Van Leuvin and family, to whom 1 am much indebted for the kindness which a sick man requires, and went resolutely into " drugs and medicines."

On the 2d day of May, feeling that I could " throw physic to the dogs," I took leave of my kind host, and again mounting Old Shab, I rode to the ferry, where I learned that the company had started that day, determined to go on as far as the grass would allow the cattle to be driven.

Afler diimer, dropping a few words to my friends by the last regular mail, I crossed the river, which is, perhaps, a third of a mile in -width, and stood, for the first time, m the Lidian country.

The camp of the company had been about a mile and a half below the ferry, on the bottom, but I found it vacated when I reached it, though the trail of their wagons was plainly to be seen, leading up the high bluff, which runs parallel with the river,

PANORAMA PLAINS. 21

and I turned my pony's head towards the Platte, Ascending a long hill, I found the land sparsely covered mth timber, and much broken, as far as the eye could see among the trees ; but the road marked by our train was on an easy ridge, which led beyond the broken ground into the interior.

The timber continued four or five miles, when it ceased, and the eye rested on a broad expanse of rolling prairie, till the heavens and earth seemed to meet, on one vast carpet of green^ In vain did the eye endeavor to catch a glimpse of some farmhouse, some cultivated field, some herd of cattle, cropping the luxuriant grass in the distance ; yet no sign of civilization met the eye. All was still and lonely, and I had an overwhelming feeling of wonder and surprise at the vastness and silence of the panorama. It seemed as if the sight of an Indian would have given relief, but not one appeared, and on, on I rode, without seeing a sign of life, and with none but my own thoughts to commune with. '

A little before night-fall, on rising a hill, I came suddenly in sight of the encampment of our company, consisting of seventeen wagons and fifty men, all of whom were firom the neighborhood of Ottawa. They were encamped in a hollow, near a fine spring, and putting Old Shab to his best gait, in three minutes I stood among my friends, with a glorious appetite to partake of their savory supper of bacon, bread and coffee. They had made about fifteen mdles. Soon after my arrival, all hands were summoned, by the blast of the bugle, for the purpose of adopting general rules for mutual safety in traveling and also to detail a guard for the night.

My own mess was now composed of Messrs. J. H. Fredenburg, Benjamin K. Thome, Robert Brown, Hazel Henderson, John Morrell, Eben Smith, and myself It was the intention of oui' company to keep the dividing ridge between the Great and Little Namaha, to a certain point which had been marked out, and then strike off to the St. Joseph road, which we had been assured we could reach in about eight days, and we relied much on following the trail of the train which had passed over the ground four years before, and which here was plainly perceptible.

^ Our guards being posted, we all turned into our tents, and fatigue and the novelty of our situation were soon forgotten in the arms of the god of sleep.

Chapter II. Rolling Praieie An Old Pioneee — Strangers "with Mules And Ponies

WHITE MEN AND INDIAN INDIAN THEFT AND DECEPTION PRAIRIE,

GRASS AND WATER THUNDER SHOWER AT NIGHT MISTAKE OF THE DAT

SPOILED BACON DIVIDING RIDGE THE TWO NAMAHA8 BROKEN

COL'NTRY OUT OF THE WAT CROSSING THE GREAT NAM AHA BRIDGE

BUILT AND CROSSED WESTWARD TRIBUTARY OF THE LITTLE NAMAHA

— SEVERE THUNDER SHOWER AT NIGHT WYETH RUN HALL's FORD

UNKNOWN STREAM PIONEER GREENE ABSENTEE SOUTH- W. COURSE

^CROSSED THE STREAM SIGNS OF BUFFALO.