Journey In Brazil

Front matter

TEXT CUT BOOK

< 98U"A26j Agassiz $3.00 A journey in Brazil

808411

Preface

IN tlio winter of 1865 it became necess'ary for me, on account of some disturbance of my health, to seek a change of scene and climate, with rest from work. Europe was proposed ; but though there is much enjoyment for a naturalist in contact with the active scientific life ot the Old "World, there is little intellectual rest. Toward Brazil I was drawn by a lifelong desire. After the death of Spix, when a student of twenty years of age, I had been employed by Martius to describe the fishes they had brought back with them from their celebrated Brazilian journey. From that time, the wish to study this fauna in the regions where it * belongs had been an ever-recurring thought with mo ; a scheme deferred for want of opportunity, but never quite forgotten. Tfao fact that the Emperor of Brazil was deeply interested in all ucientifio urdertakings, and had expressed a warm sympathy with my efforts to establish a great zoological museum in this country, aiding me even by sending collodions made expressly under his order for the purpose, was an additional incentive. I knew that the head of the government would give mo every facility for my investigations* Nevertheless, tempting as was the proa-

VI PREFACE.

pect of a visit to Brazil, as a mere vacation it had little charm for me. Single-handed, I could make slight use of the opportunities I should have ; and though the excursion might be a pleasant one for myself, it would have no important result for science. I could not forgot that, had I only the necessary means, I might make collections on this journey which, whenever our building could be so enlarged as to give room for their exhibition, would place the Museum in Cambridge on a level with the first institutions of the kind. But for this a working force would be needed, and I saw no possibility of providing for such an undertaking. While I was brooding over these thoughts I chanced to meet Mr. Nathaniel Thayer, whom I have ever found a generous friend to science. The idea of appealing to him for a scheme of this magnitude had not, however, occurred to mo ; but he introduced the subject, and, after expressing his interest in my proposed journey, added, "You wish, of course, to give it a scientific character; take six assistants with you, and I will be responsible for all their expenses, personal and scientific." It was so simply said, and seemed to me so great a boon, that at first I hardly believed I had heard him rightly. In the end, I had cause to see in how large and liberal a sense he proffered his support to the expedition, which, as is usual in s\ich sases, proved longer and more costly than was at first anticipated. Not only did he provide most liberally for assistants, but, until the last specimen was stored in the Museum, he continued to advance whatever sums were

PBEFACK. ru

ueeded, always desiring me to inform him should any additional expenses occur on closing up the affairs of the expedition. It seems to me that the good arising from the knowledge of such facts justifies me in speaking here of these generous deeds, accomplished so unostentatious!/ that they might otherwise pass unnoticed.

All obstacles thus removed from my path, I made my preparations for departure as rapidly as possible. The assistants I selected to accompany me were Mr. James Burkhardt as artist, Mr. John G. Anthony as conchologist, Mr. Frederick 0. Hartt and Mr. Orestes St. John as geologists, Mr. John A. Allen as ornithologist, and Mr. George Sceva as preparator. Beside these, my party was enlarged by several volunteers, to whom I was indebted for assistance as untiring and efficient as if they had been engaged for the purpose. These were Mr. Newton Dexter, Mr. William James, Mr. Edward Oopeland, Mr. Thomas Ward, Mr. Walter Hunnewell, and Mr. S. V, R. Thayer, I should not omit to mention my brother-in-law, Mr. Thomas G. Gary, as one of my aids ; for, though not nominally connected with the expedition, he made collections Lor me at Monte Video, Buenos Ayres, and other places. I was also joined by my friends Dr. and Mrs. Cotting. Dr. Cotting, like myself, was in need of a vacation, and it was his intention to remain with us for as long a time as he could spare from his professional practice. But the climate proved unfavorable to his health, and after passing a couple of months in Rio, and sharing trith us all our excursions in that neighborhood, he riii PREFACE.

sailed with Mrs. Getting for Europe, where they passed the summer. His presence with us during that time was most fortunate, for it so happened that the only serious cases of illness we had among us occurred before he left, and his medical advice and care were of groat service. I lost the assistance of Mr. Anthony, and Mr Allen also, early in the expedition ; their health, always delicate, obliging them to leave for home. With these exceptions, our working force remained intact, and I am happy to state that every member of the party returned in safety to the United States.*

No sooner was the Brazilian Expedition known to the public, than I received a letter from Mr. Allen McLaue, President of the Pacific Mail Steamship Company, offering to me and my whole party the hospitality of thoir magnificent ship the Colorado, then just sailing from New York for the Pacific coast. She was going almost empty of passengers, being bound by the way of Capo Horn for San Francisco. We left New York on board this beautiful vessel, on the 1st of April, 1865. The recc:d of our delightful voyage to Rio de Janeiro will

* There is but one sad record I hare to make connected with this journey, My friend and companion of many years, Mr. Burkhardt, died about ten months after his return, of a disease which, though not contracted in Brazil, since it was of some years' standing, was no doubt aggravated by the hot slimate. His great desire to accompany me led him, against my advice, to undertake a journey which, in his case, was a dangerous one. He Buffered very much during our stay OIL the Amazons, but I could not persuade him to leave his work ; and in the following pages it will be seen that his induflfj was unflagging.

PKEFACE. ij

be found in the narrative ; but I wish here publicly to acknowledge my obligation to Mr. McLane for his generosity to the expedition. Besides the sympathy accorded me by private individuals, I have to thank the Hon. Gideon Welles, Secretary of the Navy, for a general order, received on the eve of my departure, desiring the officers of the United States Navy, wherever I should fall in with them, to afford me such assistance in my scientific researches as would not interfere with the regular service; and 1 learned at Rio that Mr. Seward had warmly recommended the expedition to General Webb, at that time United States Minister to Brazil. Finally, I would express my thanks also to Messrs. Garrison and Allen for the free passage offered to myself and my companions for our return, on board the line of steamers established between New York and Eio de Janeiro during our stay in Brazil.

It will be seen hereafter what facilities were granted me throughout this journey by the Brazilians themselves, and that the undertaking, so warmly speeded on its way, was welcomed no less cordially in the country to which it was bound.

One word as to the manner in which this volume has grown into its present shape, for it has been rather the natural growth of circumstances than the result of any preconceived design. Partly for the entertainment of her friends, partly with the idea that I might make some uso of it in knitting together the scientific reports of my tourney by a thread of narrative, Mrs. Agassiz began this

H PREFACE.

diary, I soon fell into the habit of giving her daily the more general results of my scientific observations, knowing that she would allow nothing to be lost which was worth preserving. In consequence of this mode of working, our separate contributions have become so closely interwoven that we should hardly know how to disconnect them, and our common journal is therefore published^ with the exception of a few unimportant changes, almost as it was originally written. In this volume I have attempted only to give such an account of my scientific work and its results as would explain to the public what were the aims of the expedition, and how far they have been accomplished. It is my hope to complete a work, already begun, on the Natural History, and especially on the Pishes of Brazil, in which will be recorded not only my investigations during the journey and those of my assistants in their independent excursions, but also the researches now regularly carried on in connection with the immense Brazilian collections stored in the Museum at Cambridge, This must, however, be the slow labor of many years, and can only be published very gradually. In the mean time I hope that this forerunner of the more ipccial reports may serve to show that our year in Brazil, full as it was of eiyoyment for all the party, was also rich to permanent results for science.

TABLE OP CONTENTS.

Chapter I. Votage Prom New Tore To Rio Dbs Janeibo

IflrBt Sunday at Sea — Gulf Stream. — Gulf-Weed — Lectures proposed.— First Lecture: On the Gulf Stream in the Gulf Stream. — Aquarium established on board. — Second Lecture — Eough Sea. — Peculiar Tint of Water. — Third Lecture : Laying out Work of Expedition in Brazil 3 Distribution of Fishes in Brazilian Rivers ; its Bearing on Origin of Species ; Collecting of Eggs. — Tropical Sunset. — Fourth Lecture: Plan of Geological Investigations with special reference to Glacial Phenomena in South America. — Flying-Fish. — Fifth Lecture: Glacial Phenomena, continued. — Second Sunday at Sea, — Bough Water. — Sixth Lecture : Embryological Investigations as a Guide to sound Classification. — Seventh Lecture.— Moonlight Nights. — Trade- Winds. — Eighth Lecture: Importance of Precision in Localizing Specimens. — Southern Cross. — Ninth Lecture: Fresh-water Fishes of Brazil. — Easter Sunday. — First Sight of South American Shore. — Olinda. — Pernambuco. — Catamarans. — Tenth Lecture: Methods of Collecting. — Eleventh Lecture: Classification of Fishes as illustrated by Embryology. — Preparations for Arrival. — Twelfth Lecture: Practical Lesson in Embryology. — Closing Lecture: Transmutation Theory; Intellectual and Political Independence. — Resolutions and Speeches. — Singular Bed Patches on the Surface of the Sea. .

Chapter II. Bio Be Janeiro And Its Environs. — Jttiz De Fora

Arrival. — Aspect of Harbor and City. — Custom-House. — First Glimpse of Biazilian Life. — Negro Dance. — • Effect of Emancipation in United States upon Slavery in Brazil. — First Aspect of Bio de Janeiro on Land. *— Picturesque Street Groups. — Eclipse of the Sun. — At Home in Rio. — ^arangeiras. — Passeio Publico. — Excursion on the Dom Pedro Railroad. -Visit of the Emperor to the Colorado. — Cordiality of the Government to the Expedition. — Laboratory. — Botanical Garden. — Alley of Palms. — Excursion to the Corcovado. — Juiz de Fora Road. — Petropolis. — Tropical Vegetation. — Ride from Petropolis to Juiz de Fora. — Visit to Senhot Lage. — Excursion to the Forest of the Empress. — Visit t** Mr. Halfcld. — Return to Rio.— N«ws of the Great Northern Victories, aad of th« President's Assassination. 4 di TABLE OF CONTENTS.

Chapter III. Life In Bio Continued. — Fazenda Life

Botafogo. — Insane Hospital. — Tijuca. — Erratic Drift. — Vegetation. - Birthday Dinner. — Arrangements for Parties to the Interior. — Public Lectures in Bio. — Procession of St. George. — Leave Rio on Excursion to the Fortaleza de Santa Anna. — Localities for Erratic Drift between Rio and Petropolis. — Departure from Juiz de Fora. — Arrival at the Fazenda. Eide in the Forest. — Eve of San Jbao, — Cupim Nests, — Excursion to the Upper Fazenda. — Grand Hunt. — Picnic. — Coffee Plantation. — Return to Bio. — Mimic Snow-Fields. — Coffee Insect spinning its Nest.

— Visit to the Fazenda of Commendador Breves. — Botanizing Excursion to Tijuca. — Preparations for leaving Bio. — Major Coutmho. — Collegio Dom Pedro Segundo. 80-J

CHAPTEE IV.

VOYAGE TIP THE COAST TO PAIUL.

On board the Cruzeiro do Sul. — Members of the Party. — Arrival at Bahia. — Day in the Country. — Beturn to the Steamer. — Conversation about Slavery in Brazil. — Negro Marriages. — Maceio. — Pernambuco. — Parahyba do Norte. — Ramble on Shore. — Ceara. — Difficult Landing. — Brazilian Baths. — Maranham. — Assai Palm. — Visit to Orphan Asylum. — - Detained in Port. — Variety of Medusa. — Arrival of American Gunboat*

— More Medusae. — Dinner on Shore. — Cordiality toward the Expedition.

— Arrival at Par&. — Kind Beception. — Environs of Para. — Luxuriant Growth. — Markets. — Indian Boats. — Agreeable Climate. — Excursion in the Harbor. — Curious Mushroom. — Success in collecting, with the assistance of our Host and other Friends. — Fishes of the Forests.— Public Expressions of Sympathy for the Expedition. — Generosity of the Amazonian Steamship Company. — Geological Character of the Shore from Rio to Para. — Erratic Drift. — Letter to the Emperor. . 126 - II

Chapter V. Fbom Faba To Manaos

First Sunday on the Amazons. — Geographical Question. — Convenient Arrangements of Steamer. — Vast Dimensions of the River. — Aspect of Shores. — Village of Breves. — Letter about Collections. — Vegetation.— Variety of Palms. — Settlement of Tajapuru. — Enormous Size of Leaves of the Miriti Palm. — Walk on Shore, — Indian Houses. — Courtesy of Indians. — Bow in the Forest. — Town of Gurupd. — Biver Xingu. — Color of Water. — Town of Porto do Moz. — Flat-topped Hills of Almeyrim. — Beautiful Sunset. — Monte Ategre. — Character of Scenery and Soil. — Santarem. — Send off Party on the Biver Tapajoz. — Continue up the Amazons. — Pastoral Scenes on the Banks.— Town of Villa Bella,— Canoe Journey at Night. — Esperanca's Cottage. — Picturesque Scene »t Night— Success in Collecting.— Indian Life. — Making Farinha.— Dane* in the Evening. — Howling Monkeys.— Beligious Impressions of Intfuuu. —

TABLE OF CONTENTS. xifl

Cottage of Maia. — His Interest in Educating his Children. — Return to Steamer. — Scientific Results of the Excursion. . 162 - 1*4

Chapter VI

LIFE AT MANAOS. — VOYAGE FROM MANAOS TO TABATEtfGA.

Arrival at Manaos. — Meeting of the Solimoens with the Bio Negro. — Domesticated at Manaos. — Return of Party from the Tapajoz. •— Generosity of Government — Walks. — Water-Carriers. — Indian School. — Leave Manaos. — Life on board the Steamer. — Barreira das Cudajas. — Coari. — • Wooding. — Appearance of Banks. — Geological Constitution. — Forest. — Sumaumeira-Tree.— Arrow-Grass — Red Drift Cliffs. — Sand-Beaches. — Indian Huts. — Turtle-Hunting — Drying Fish. — Teffe*. — Doubts about the Journey. — Unexpected Adviser. — Fonte B6a. — Geological Character of Banks. — Lakes. — Flocks of Water Birds. — Tonantins. — Picturesque Grouping of Indians. — San Paolo. — Land-Slides. — Character of Scenery. — Scanty Population. — Animal Life. — Tabatinga. — Aspect of the Settlement. — Mosquitoes. — Leave one of the Party to make Collections. — On our Way down the River. — Party to the Rivers lea and Hyutahy. — Aground in the Amazons. — Arrival at Teffe*. . „ 186 - 211

Chapter VII. Life In Tefee

Aspect of Teffe*. — Situation. — Description^ of Houses. — Fishing Excursion.— Astonishing Variety of Fishes. — Acara. — Scarcity of Laborers. Our Indoors Man. — Bruno, — Alexandria. — Pleasant Walks. — Mandioca-shed in the Forest. — • Indian Encampment on the Beach. — Excursion to Fishing Lodge on the Solimoens. — Amazonian Beaches. — Breeding- Places of Turtles, Fishes, etc. — Adroitness of Indians in finding them. — Description of a " Sitio." — Indian Clay-Eaters — Cuieira-Tree. — Fish Hunt. — Forest Lake. — Water Birds. — Success in Collecting. — Evening Scene in Sitio. — - Alexandrma as Scientific Aid. — Fish Anecdote. — Relations between Fishes as shown by their Embryology. -^ Note upon the Marine Character of the Amazonian Faunae. — Acari. — News from the Parties in the Interior. — Return of Party from the lea. — Preparations for Departure. — Note on General Result of Scientific Work in Teffe*. — Waiting for the Steamer. — Sketch of Alexandrina. — Mocuim. — Thunder-Storm. — Repiquete. — Geological Observations. . . 213 256

CHAPTEB VIII.

SETURN TO MANAOS. — AMAZONIAN PICNIC.

Arrival at Manaos. — New Quarters.— The Ibicuhy. — News from Home. Visit to the Cascade. — Banheiras in the Forest. — Excursion to Lake Hyanuary. — Character and Prospects of the Amazonian Valley. — Reception at the Lake. — Description of Sitio. — Successful Fishing.— Indian Viiitors. — Indian Ball. — Character of the Dancing. — Disturbed Night —

KiT TABLE OF CONTENTS.

Canoe Excursion. — Scenery. — Another Sitio. — Morals and Manners. — Talk with the Indian Women. — Life in the Forest. — Life in the Towns. Dinner-Party. — Toasts. — Evening Bow on the Lake. — Night Scene. — Smoking among the Senhoras. — Keturn to Manaos. 351 - 371

Chapter IX. Manaos And Its Neighborhood

Photographic Establishment. — Indian Portraits.— Excursion to the Great Cascade. — Its Geological Formation. — Bathing Pool. — Parasitic Plants.

— Return by the Igarape*. — Public Ball. — Severity in Recruiting, and its Effects.— Collecting Parties. — Scenes of Indian Life. — Fete Champetre at the Casa dos Educandos. — Prison at Manaos. — Prison Discipline on the Amazons — Extracts -from Presidential Reports on this Subject — Prison at Teffe*. — General Character of Brazilian Institutions. — Emperor's Birthday. — Illuminations and Public Festivities. — Return of Collecting Parties. — Bemarka on the Races. — Leave Manaos for Mauhes > 276 - 8Ai

Chapter X. Excursion To Mauhes And Its Neighborhood

Leave Manaos. — On board the Ibicuhy. — Navigation of the River Bamos. — Aspect of the Banks. — Arrival at Mauhes. — Situation of Mauhes. — Tupinambaranas. — Character of Population. — Appearance of the Villages of Mauhes. — Bolivian Indians. — Guaraua. — Excursion to Mucaja-Tuba. — Mundurucu Indians. — Aspect of Village. — Church. — Distribution of Presents. — Generosity of the Indians. — Their Indifference. — Visit to another Settlement. — Return to Mauhes. — Arrival of Munduruens in the Village. — Description of Tattooing. — Collection. — Boto. — Indian Superstitions. — Palm Collection. — Walk in the Forest. — Leave Mauhes. — Mundurucu Indian and his Wife. — Their Manners and Appearance. —Indian Tradition.— Distinctions of Caste. 801 - 32]

Chapter XI. Return To Manaos. — Excursion On The Rio Negro

Christmas Eve at Manaos. — Ceremonies of the Indians. — Churches on the Amazons. — Leave Manaos for the Rio Negro.— Curious River Formation.

— Aspect of the River.— Its Vegetation. — Scanty Population. — Village of Taua P<5asgu. — Padre of the Village. — Palms. — Village of Pedreira — Indian Camp. — Making Palm-thatch. — Sickness and Want at Pedreira.

— Bow in the Forest — Tropical Shower. — Geology of Pedreira. — Indian Becruits. — Collection of Palms. — Extracts from Mr. Agassiz's Notes on Vegetation. — Return to Manaos. — Desolation of the Rio Negro. — Its future Prospects. — Efomboldt's Anticipations. — Wild Flowers. — Distribution of Fishes in the Amazonian Waters. — How far due to Migration. — Hydrographic System. — Alternation between the Rise and Fall of the Southern and Northern Tributaries. 823 MM

TABLE OF CONTENTS. XV

Chapter XII. Dow1t The Biveb To Paba*. — Excursions On The Coast

Farewell Visit to the Great Cascade at Manaos. — Change in its Aspect — Arrival At Villa Bella. — Return to the House of the Fisherman Maia. — Excursion to the Lago Maximo. — Quantity of Game and Waterfowl.

— Victoria regia. — Leave Villa Bella. — Arrive at Obydos. — Its Situation and Geology. — Santarem — Visit to the Church. — Anecdote of Martins.

— A Bow overland. — Monte Ale"gre. — Picturesque Scenery. — Banheiras. —Excursion into the Country. — Leave Monte Ale*gre. — Anecdote of Indians* — Almeynm. — New Geological Facts. — Porto do Moz. — Collections. — Gurupa. — Tajapurd. — Arrive at Para. — - Religious Procession.

— Excursion to Marajo. — Soure*s. — Jesuit Missions. — Geology of Marajo. — Buried Forest. — Vigia. — Igarape*. — Vegetation and Animal Life.

— Geology. — Return to Para, — Photographing Plants.— Notes on the Vegetation of the Amazons. — Prevalence of Leprosy. . . . 861 *89(

Chapter XIII. Physical History Of The Amazons

Drift about Rio de Janeiro. — Decomposition of underlying Rock. — Different Aspect of Glacial Phenomena in different Continents. — Fertility of the Drift. — Geological Observations of Messrs. Hartt and St. John. — Correspondence of Deposits along the Coast with those of Rio and those of the Valley of the Amazons, — Primitive Formation of the Valley. — First known Chapter of its History. — Cretaceous Fossil Fishes. — Former Extent of the South- American Coast. — Cretaceous Fossils from the Rio Purus.

— Comparison between North and South America. — Geological Formations along the Banks of the Amazons. — Fossil Leaves. — Clays and Sandstones. — Hills of Almeyrim. — Monte Ale*gre. — Situation and Scenery. — Serra of Erere*. — Comparison with Swiss Scenery. — Boulders of Erere*.— Ancient Thickness of Amazonian Deposits. — Difference between Drift of the Amazons and that of Rio. — Inferences drawn from the present Condition of the Deposits. — Immense Extent of Sandstone Formation.— Nature and Origin of these Deposits. — Referred to the Ice- Period. — Absence of Glacial Marks. — Glacial Evidence of another Kind. — Changes in the Outline of the South-American Coast — Soure". — Igarape* Grande.— Vigia.— Bay of Braganza.— Anticipation. . 897-41!

Chapter XIV. Ceara*

Leaving Para. — Farewell to the Amazons. —Ease of Travelling on the Amazons. — Rough Passage. — Arrival at Ceara. — Difficulty of Landing.

— Aspect of the Town. — Rainy Seasor. — Consequent Sickliness. — Our Purpose in stopping at Ceara. — Report of Dr. Felice about Moraines. — Preparations for Journey into the Interior. — ->iiuculties and Delays in fitting off. — On the Way. — Night at Aranclio — Bad Roads. — Car-

£71 TABLE OF CONTENTS,

naaba Palm.— Arrival at Mongttba, — Kind Reception by Senhor Frank- Bode Lima* — Geology of the Region. — Evening Games and Amusements*

— Pacatuba. — Traces of ancient Glaciers. — Serra of Aratanha. — Climb up the Serra,— Hospitality of Senhor da Costa. — Picturesque Views. — The Sertao. —Drought and Bains. — Epidemics. — Return to Monguba.— Detained by extraordinary Bains. — Return to Ceara. — Overflowed Roads.

— Difficulty of fording.— Arrival at Ceara.— Liberality of the President

of the Province toward the Expedition. . ... 442- i&

Chapter XV. Public Institutions Of Bio. — Organ Mountains

Voyage from Ceari. — Freshets at Pernambuco. — Arrival at Bio. — Collections. — Vegetation about Bio as compared with that on the Amazons. — Misericordia Hospital. — Charities connected with it. — Almsgiving in Brazil. — Insane Asylum. — Military School. — The Mint — Academy of Fine Arts. — Heroism of a Negro. — Primary School for Girls. — Neglected Education of Women. — Blind Asylum. — Lectures. — Character of a Brazilian Audience. — Organ Mountains. — Walk up the Serra.— Theresopolis. —Visit to the St. Louis Fazenda. — Climate of Theresopolis. —Descent of the Serra. — Geology of the Organ Mountains. — The Last Word. 468-494

CHAPTER XYI.

GENERAL IMPRESSIONS OF BRAZIL.

Religion and Clergy. — Education. — Law, Medical, and Scientific Schools.

— High and Common Schools. — Public Library and Museum in Bio de Janeiro. — Historical and Geographical Institute. — Social and Domestic Relations. — Public Functionaries. — Agriculture. — Zones of Vegetation.

— Coffee. — Cotton. — Timber and other Products of the Amazons.— Cattle.— Territorial Subdivision of the Great Valley. — Emigration, — Foreigners. — Paraguayan War. ... 496*647

Appendix

L The Gulf Stream .... .... .616

It Flying-Fishes 6tt

01. Resolutions passed on board the Colorado 626

rV. Dom Pedro Segnndo Railroad . . . . . . . 627

V* Permanence of Characteristics in different Human Species . . %29

?L Sketch of Separate Journeys undertaken by different Members of the

Expedition . 6*1

LIST OF WOODCUTS.

COOOBIRO Jf ALM

A species of Attalea common in the Serra d'Estrella. It bears two or three large bunches of olive-like berries, hanging immediately below the crown of leaves. The upper part of the stem is often overgrown with parasites, as in the specimen represented here.

From a photograph by G. Leuzinger.

Page MAP OF THE JOURNEY ON THE AMAZON . . lAoma i

This map was compiled from all the best authorities expressly for this volume., It accompanies the text from the time of the arrival at Para. The voyage to Rio Janeiro and thence up the coast to Para is sufficiently clear without the aid of a map, and space has therefore been given to the Amazon and its tributaries.

TREE ENTWINED BY SIPOS 54

There are a great many parasites, the stem and roots of which are attached to larger trees ; this woodcut represents one of those strange " tree-killera," as they are called by the natives, belonging to the family of the Fig-trees, which, beginning their growth among the upper branches of trees, gradually descend to the ground, throw out branches around the stem they attack, and in the end kill it in their embrace. On the right are Lianas, from which, hang parasitic flowers.

From a photograph by G. Leuzinger.

SIDE VIEW OF THE ALLEY OP PALMS ..... 60 Part of the Botanical Garden in Bio de Janeiro. In the foreground a Pandanus covered with fruits. The Palms standing in pairs in the great alley are commonly called Pal ma Heal. Their botanical name is Oreodoxa oleracea. Th * peak of Gorcpvado forms the background. From a photograoh by Messrs. Stahl & Wahnschaffe.

VISTA DOWN THE ALLEY OF PALMS $1

The objects are the same as in the preceding woodcut, only seen at right angles, to afford a view down the alley.

From a photograph by Messrs. Stahl & Wahnschaffe.

cviii LIST OF WOODCUTS.

BOTAFOGO BAY 81

The great southeastern bay in the harbor of Rio de Janeiro. The highest peak in the centre is the Corcovado, at the foot of which stand the Insane Asylum and the Military School. On the left are the Gavia and the Sugar- Loaf ; on the right, Tijuca. A beach runs all round the bay* From a photograph by G. Leuzinger.

NEGRESS SI

From a photograph by Messrs. Stahl & Wahnschaffe.

NKQRE6S AND CHILD 84

From a photograph by Messrs. Stahl & Wahnschafie.

FALLEN TRUNK OVERGROWN BY PARASITES. ... 91

A comparison with the woodcut facing p. 64 will show how parasites growing upon living trees differ from those springing from dead trunks. From a photograph by G. Leuzinger.

FAZENDA DE SANTA ANNA, IN MINAS GERAES . . . 108 The level grounds in front of the buildings are used for drying the coffee. From a photograph by Senhor Machado.

EspRRANcVs COTTAGE 179

From a water-colored painting by Mr. J. Burkhardt.

VERANDA AND DINING-ROOM AT TEFF£ .... 214 From a drawing by Mr. J. Burkhardt

HEAD OF ALEXANDRIA 243

Extraordinary as the head of hair of this girl may seem, it ia in no way exaggerated; it stood six inches beyond the shoulders each way. From a sketch by Mr. Win, James.

DINING-ROOM AT HYANUABY 268

The palm on the left is a Pupunha (Guilielmaspeciosa); the large-leaved trees back of the building are Bananas, and the Palm on the right a Javari (Astrocaryum Javari).

From a water-colored painting by Mr. J. Burkhardt.

MAUHES RIVER 304

The Palm in the foreground is a Mucaja vAcrocomia lasiospatha) ; near the fence stand Banana-trees, and in the distance on the right a Tucuma Palm (Astrocaryura Tucuma).

From a water-colored painting by Mr, J. Burkhardt

LIST OF WOODCUTS. XU

INDIAN ; male 313

From a photograph by Dr. Gustavo, of Manaos.

MUNDURUCU INDIAN ; female SU

Also from a photograph by Dr, Gustavo, of Manaos,

FAN BACCABA . . . .' ... 80S

This Palm, called (Enocarpus distychius by botanists, is remarkable for the arrangement of its leaves, which are placed opposite to each other on two sides of the trunk, and higher and higher alternately, so that, seen from one side, the two rows of leaves are equally visible, and have the appearance of a wide fan; seen in profile, they look like a narrow plume. From a drawing by Mr. J. Burkhardt.

SUMATJMEIBA 391

This colossal tree ib known to botanists under the name of Eriodendrum Sumanma, and may be seen everywhere in the basin of the Amazons. From a photograph presented by Senhor Pimenta Bueno.

GrARAFOl, among the Organ Mountains 486

This peak is called the Finger by the English residents of Rio. The ferarUians liken it to a bottle.

From a photograph by G. Leuzinger.

The loose boulder alluded to in the text stands on the fourth pMk from th* toft.

From a ph >togr»ph by G. Leuzinger.

W\H

'/nSTc llp-

-V&i

Chapter I. Voyage From New York To Rio De Janeiro

FIRST SUNDAY AT SEA. — GULF STREAM. — GULP- WEED. — LECTURES FBO POSED. — FIRST LECTURE: " ON THE GULF STREAM IN THE GULF STREAM."

— AQUARIUM ESTABLISHED ON BOARD. — SECOND LECTURE. — ROUGH SEA

— PECULIAR TINT OF WATER. — THIRD LECTURE : LATINO OUT WORK OF EXPEDITION IN BRAZIL ; DISTRIBUTION OF FISHES IN BRAZILIAN RIVERS; ITS BEARING ON ORIGIN OF SPECIES j COLLECTING OF EGGS. — TROPICAL SUN- SET.— FOURTH LECTURE: PLAN OF GEOLOGICAL INVESTIGATIONS WITH SPE- CIAL REFERENCE TO GLACIAL PHENOMENA IN SOUTH AMERICA. — FLYING-