Journal of a tour to Moscow, in the summer of 1836

Front matter

JOURNAL OF A TOUR

TO

MOSCOW.

Preface

Why I have troubled the public with a Journal of my Tour to Moscow, is a question which I find no small difficulty in answering, even to the satisfation of that most indulgent of judges — myself. I certainly cannot plead " request of friends" for until the first sheet was printed, I do not remember having had communication with three persons on the subject. I believe it was the perusal of Mr. Barrow's delightful little book that first inspired me with a taste for travelling in the North of Europe ; and the recollection of the pleasure which that book afforded me, has made me vain enough to

IV. PREFACE.

hope^ that the personal narrative of a less talented writer might not be entirely without interest to the public, especially as the scene is laid in a country, the manners and customs of which are every year becoming more a subject of enquiry among us.

Tn the spring of the present year a valued friend proposed to me to accompany his only son in a summer excursion, leaving tl^e choice of our route entirely to myself. My health had been a good deal shaken by different causes in the beginning of the year ; I was glad therefore to embrace an opportunity of recruiting my strength by an excursion, which promised so much of interest and excitement. How completely in this respect the proposed object has been attained, I acknowledge with feelings of the deepest gratitude to Him, *^ in whose hand are the issues of life and death.^*

PREFACE. V.

With regard to the publication of my journal, I can only say that if the description of my wanderings should prove half as entertaining to the public, as the actual journey was to me, my most sanguine hopes will be fulfilled.

Torquay, November 1 7th, 1836.

COiNTENTS.

Chapter I

Arrival at Hamburg — Freedom from custom-house annoyances — We hire a carriage^ and start for Luheck — Bad road — Thunderstorm — Philosophical postillion — JFe arrive at Luheck and embark the next morning at Travemunde for St. Petersburg —Passengers 07i board the steamer — Dutch Captain — Russian Corvette — Cronstadt — Russian custom-house officers — Small steam^packet — Singular pilot — TFe are landed at St. Petersburg — Custom House — Examination of books — Engelhardfs — Hotel de Pai'is — Duration of daylight in summer 1 — 12

Vm. CONTENTS.

Chapter II

Statue of Peter the Great — Comparison between it and the Statue of Charles I. at Charing Cross — Senate Square — Description of the Statue — Alexander s column — Singular story — J^*ev!ski) Prospect — Russian Droshy — Respect paid to the English at St. Petersburg — Great Bazaar — Casan Church — English sailor— Convent of Alexander Nevsky — Miracle said to have been wrought by the saint 13 — 21

Chapter III

Permits of residence — Winter palace — Croivn jewels — Drunkenness of the Russians — Picturesque appearance of the peasantry — Their good humour and ingenuity — the Russian language — English church — Hermitage palace— Pictures — Prodigal son — Taurida palace— Singular mistake of a valet de place— Smolnoi convent— Aiilitary church— Exchange — Post-office — Kammenoy Ostroff 22 — 31

CONTENTS. IX.

Chapter IV

Old and new arsenals — Specimens of ancient cannon and armour— Catherine' s horse — Stool of a celebrated highwayman — Cannon foundry— Tapestry manufactory — Mode of telegraphing a fire — Road to Tsarsko-Selo — Telegas— Kihitkas— Palace of Tsarsko-Selo— Chapel — Amber room— porcelain room — Boudoir of the Empress — Ornaments of the grounds — Palace of Alexandrosky — The farm — Attempt to assassinate the Grand Duke Alexander — Assassination of four Emperors 32—30

CHPATER V.

JVe visit the camp at Krasno-Selo — Officers of tlie imperial guard — Awkward question — Anxiety of tJie Russians to know what is thought of them in England — Soldiers at dinner — Quass — Circassian cavalry — Gigantic grenadier — Pay of a foot-soldier — IVe return to St. Petersburg — Glass manufactory — Admiralty — Climate of St. Petersburg — Church of the Trinity — Isaac church 41 — 48

X. CONTENTS.

Chapter VI

The mining establishment — The mint — Mode of coining money — Silver roubles — JSTotes — The citadel — Church of St. Peter and St. Paul — Tombs of the Emperors — Russian bath — Mode of bathing adopted by the peasants 49—59

Chapter VII

Appearance of our valet de place — Tf^e set out to view the fete at Peterhoff- — Groups in front of the palace — We enter the state apartments — TJie Emperor — Description of his person — account of the insurrection in 1825 — The Empress — Grand Duke Michael — Strange story — Illuminations — Picturesque figures — Prince Nariskin — Russian Admiral — Russian tea — Americans — We return to St. Petersburg 60 — 76

CHAPTER Vni.

We determine to set out for Moscow — Farewell

CONTENTS. XI.

excursion down the river — The Bussian Quay — Statue of Swcaroff—Marhle palace — Hotel of the French Ambassador — Hermitage — Winter palace — Admiralty — Senate square and statue of Peter the Great — English Quay — English Church — Exchange— Academy of sciences— Museum— Observatory— 'Colleges of the first and second corps of cadets— Academy of Arts— Obelisk to the memory of Momanzoff—Ecole des mines— Two bridges over the JSTeva— Bustling scene in the river— Fish boats— Floating hay-stacks— Russian beggars —Dress of the Russian ladies— The Knout— Our names are inserted three times in the Gazette— Treatment of the English and French by the Russian government— Lord Durham — Moscow Diligence— Russian want of punctuality — Emharrassment caused by our ignorance of the language- Supper at the first post-house— Thunder storm— Dreary country — Description of a Russian cottage and its inmates— Post-houses— Manner of marking the distances on the road— Horses— Postilliojis —Overbearing conduct of a boy— The railroad from St. Petersburg to Tsarsko Selo—The road from St, Petersburg to Moscow greatly improved ----- 77—94

XU. CONTENTS.

Chapter IX

History of Novgorod—JVe enter the town—Lwig bridge over the Volkof— Cathedral of St. Sophia—I mount on the top of tlie diligence— Valday—The Valday mountains— Lahe— Convent— Crowd of curious women — Vishnay Voljoli— Canal constructed by Peter the Great — Torjok— Tver— Klin n— Moscow - 95— 99

Chapter X

Difficulties on our first arrival— Woman i?i catskin pelisse— Kopp' s — Piggott — Howard's— We visit the Kreinlin—Tlie Spashoi gate— ^Jicient usuage — Inscription— Situation of the Kremlin— Three squares— Cathedrals of the Assumption^ Annunciation^ and St. Michael- Tower of Ivan Velikoi— Bells— Great hell of the tower —Dimensions— Great hell of Moscow—Dimensions— Outline of its history- View from the tower of Ivan Velikoi— Appearance of the country round Moscow— Descriptimi of the city— Italian valet de place —Carriage and horses— Coachman 100—113

CONTENTS. Xlll.

Chapter XI

The Arsenal — Cannon taken from the French — Enormous gun — Cuherins — Cathedral of the Assumption — Paintings — Treasure in the Sacristy — Imperial treasury — List of the most remarkable objects— Armoury— Sparrow hills — Labaume^s account of the first view of Moscow by the French — View from the Sparrow hills — Church of St. Saviour — Depdt of malefactors — Roads in the vicinity of Moscow — Man of figure — Picturesque tourists 114—123

CHAPTER Xn.

Cathedral of the Assumption — Procession — Doctrines of the Greek church— Secular priests and monks — Palace of the Tzars — Angular palace — Cathedral of the Annunciation — Vestibule — Fresco paintings — Painting of the Annunciation — Character of our valet — Simonofskoi convent — Comparison between St. Petersburg and Moscow — Cathedral of St. Michael— Tombs of the Tzars — Church h

XIV. CONTENTS.

of Vassili Blagennoi — Beautiful place — Foundling hospital — Jewish hanker — Military exercise house — Convent of nuns — Lahaume's narrative—Summer gardens 124 — 145

Chapter XIII

Gostennoi Dvor — Beautiful place — Monument of Pojavshij and Minin — Toula snuff boxes — Tartar merchants — Tartar mosque — Tf^e take our places in the diligence — Russian champagne — TFe leave Moscow — Conductor — Squabbles on the road — Delays at the post-houses— TFe narroivly escape being overturned — Return to St. Petersburg — Academie des beaux arts — Picture of the destruction of Pompeii — Palace of Peter the Great — Irmndation of 1824 — Summer gardens— Castle of St. Michael — Murder of the Emperor Paul — Palace of the Grand Puke Michael — JFe determine on quitting St. Petersburg — Irish gentlemen — Difficulties — Afr. Russell — Rag fair — Carriage bazaar — We purchase a carriage and harness — Canals and bridges — English back-line — Ray's boarding house —

CONTENTS. XV,

Our friends obtain their passports^ and we leave St. Fetersburg - - 146—163

Chapter XIV

We enter Finland — Mode of travelling hi that country — Character of the road — Vihorg — Officer of police— IVe lose our companions — Frederiksham — Appearance of the peasantry — Dispute with our driver — Waterfall near Hogfors — Helsingfors — Appearance of the tonm— Harbour — Snyeaborg — Garrison — Folicy of the Emperor towards Finland— We leave Helsingfm's — Floors of the houses strewed with juniper — Carrioles — Scenes of drmikenness - - - - +45^.— 176

Its

Chapter XV

Method of mowing in Finland — Finnish agricidture — Aho — We lodge at a private house — Description of the landlady arid her daughters— Swedish valet — Damp ship — We dine at the Society house — Expenses of the jour-

XVI. CONTENTS.

ney through Finland— Char acLer of the people —Church at Aho— University— Observatory — Market boats — TFe go on board the steam-packet — Accident — Swedish dinner — Island of Soderam—Waxholm— Stockholm — Custom house 177—190

Chapter XVI

Reasons for writing a tour to Moscow — Drfflculties of travelling in Russia — J f inter the best time for visiting tJiat country— Expenses of such an excursion as ours — A knowledge of Russiuii desirable^ and of German absolutely necessary — Character of the Swedes — Habitual drunkenness — The Palace — House of JSTobles — Inscription — Statue of Gustavus III — Population of Stockholm — Coffee house — Appearance of the houses— Dalecar Hans — King's mews— Park of Rosendal— Scenery— The Queen of Sweden— The Ki7ig and Prince Oscar— Character of the King— Prospects of Prince Oscar— We set out for the iron mines of Dannemor a— Swedish posting— For ebud— Travelling cart— We arrive at the mines and

CONTENTS. XVll.

descend into one of the pits— Explosion— Appearance of the miners— Region of perpetual ice— Accidents — Upsala —University —Cathedral—Monument of Gustavus F^asa— Monument of Linnceus—His life and charade) — Ecclesiastical vestments — Statue of Thoi — W^e return to Stockholm - - 191 — 222

Chapter XVII

We leave Stockholm— Malaren lake—Arhoga— Steam-packet— Orehro—Lidkoping— We overtake our forehud—JsTight scene— Trolhattan— Different opinions of travellers— Opinion of Sir H. Davij— Saw-mills— Guide— Great canal—Curious cave—JVames of Royal visitors —Salmon fishing— Mr. Lloyd— Wolves— Snow ploughs— We arrive at Gottenhurg— Description of the town— Steam-packet agent— Our host attempts to cheat us— Steam-packet from Gottenhurg to Copenhagen— The Sound— Elsinore — Cronborg — Helsingborg— Return to England through Copenhagen, Kiel and Hamburg - - - - 223-238

ERRATA.

pHire 41, line 6. dele " the."

— line 13, /or *' Russia," read *' Russian."

57, line 5, from the bottom, /or "cold to heat," read

•* heat to cold."

Page 62, line 2 from the bottom, for **compairing," read

" comparing."

Page 70, line 4 — 10 from the bottom, the words from **along

the brow" to *' in its centre" should be m a 7iote. Page 84, line 7 fro.Ti the bottom, /or "as" read *' a."

91, line 2, for ''leather," read "leaden."

92 line 1,/or " Petetsburg" read " Petersburg.*'

101, line '1, for " serey," read " serez."

106, line 16, /or "ground," rear/ "e.arth."

■ 18, for " therfore," read " therefore."

132, line ^,for " sepulcres," read " sepulchres."

183, line 1, dele "of."

229, line 18, for "pased," read " passed."

line 19, for " inismense," read " immense."