Journal Of A Political Mission To Afghanistan In 1857

Front matter

THE BOOK WAS DRENCHED

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Chapter I

Designation and Topography of Afghanistan — Khorassan — Geographical Formation and Climate— Rivers — Natural Productions — Exports — Manufactures — Animals — Falconry — Variety of Inhabitants — The Tajik Tribe — Description of the Kazzilbashes — The Hazarah Tribe — The Hindkis and Jats — The Afghans — Language — Manners and Customs- Fixed and Nomad Population— Laws of Hospitality — Chiefs— The Priests, or " Elders " — Internal Commerce — Industrial Occupations — Physical and Moral Qualities of the Afghans— Religion and Literature Marriage Customs — Afghan Theology and Superstition— Amusements — Diet — Afghan Dress — Dyes— Manner of wearing the Hair — Afghan Women — Government and Laws — Army — Militia — Military Power of Afghanistan ......... 3

Chapter II

Origin of the Afghans— Descent from Saul, King of Israel— Vague Traditions— "Ark of the Covenant" — Afghan Histories — Conversion to Islamism — " Pathans " — Origin of the term Afghan — Common Origin of the Tribes — Genealogy — Difference of Religion — Origin of the KarabanI Tribe — Other Tribes— Jewish Features of the Afghans — Peculiar Laws— Sacrifices— Punishment of Criminals— Inheritance of Land — " Saint- Worship " — Shrines — Israelitish Descent — Emigration to Kohistan— Early History . . . . . .46

Chapter III

Political History — Arab Invasion — Afghans in Mahmud's Army— Vast Empire— Struggles for Power — Afghan Independence— Ahmad Shah- Political Dissensions — Kandahar— British Invasion — Dost Mohammad — Government of Herat— Suspicions of the Amir— Treaty with the British Government— Mission to Kandahar . . . . .78

VI CONTENTS.

Chapter I. Page

Appointment of Mission to Kandahar — Head of the Mission — Native Attaches — Route — Preparations — Postponement — Departure — Signs of Mutiny — The 19th and 34th Bengal Native Infantry — Route from Peshawar — Kohat Pass — The Afridis — Cantonment and Fort of Kohat — Route from Kohat to Khwajah Khizr — Encampment — Battue — Curious Superstition — " Tiger-grass " — Bangakh Pathans — Turban Manufacture at Hangu — The Village — Shrines — Charms — Climate — Diseases — March from Hangu to Kahl — Hill-fires — Kahi — Crops — The Waziri Tribe — Valuable Breed of Horses— The Village of Darsamand — Another March— Wild Pigs— An Afghan Welcome— Cavalry Evolutions—The Kurram River — Difficult Route — Wretched Village — Encampment at Boghzai — Armed Peasantry — Curious Ceremony — " White Mountain" — Cultivation — The Tons — Diseases — A rich Country — Remains of Shah Jahan's Pleasure Garden — Disorderly Escort — Our National Anthem in Disguise — Mohammad Sarwar Khan — The Fort- of Kurram — Scenery — Climate — Distribution of Medicines and Ingratitude of the Recipients — Reign of Quackery — Crops of the Kurram District — Hostile Tribe — Negotiations — An Expedition — Angling — Occupation of the Paiwar Pass — We continue our March- Earthquake ......... 95

Chapter II

Kurram Valley — Camp at Habib Kila— The " European Doctor " — Hostile Tribes— Afghan Heretics — Border Raids— March from Habib Kila to 'AH Khail — Alpine Vegetation — Forests — Hardy Soldiers — Anticipated Conflict with the Jajis — Rapid Cavalry Movement — Black Bears — Retired Hamlets — Defensive Towers — Refractory Jajis — War Dance — Barbaric Warriors — Threatening Rumours — 'AH Khail — Description of the 'AH Khail Jaj is — Their Houses — Toilette — Diseases — Hostile Attitude of a Priest — Gathering of the Shamu Khails — Council of War — Diplomatic Mission — Request for Reinforcements — Gholam Jan's Devotions — A Critical Time — Successful Diplomacy — Dispersion of the Shamu Khails — Babu Jan — Preposterous Request of the Jajl Maliks — Chastisement of the Jajis — Camp at Bokian — Applicants for Medicine — Cultivation of the Country — Game among the Hills — Climate — March to Hazrah — Tortuous Defile — Magnificent Pines — Ghilzai Fort — Badshah Khan — Camp at Hazrah Thannah — Difficulty of obtaining Supplies — The Wormwood Plant — Mutiny of our Escort — Prompt and merciless Punishment — Conformation of Country round Hazrah — Nomad Ghilzais — Rigours of the Climate — March from Hazrah to Khushi — View from the Hazrah " Shutur-gardan " — Wretched Villagers — Watch-tower on Shingkai Kohtal — Country round Khushi — Abundant Supplies — Robber Fastnesses—Climate and Cultivation . . . . .131

CONTENTS. Vll

PAGE

Chapter III

March from Khushi to Hisarak— -Mohammad 'Umr Khan— Illustration of Afghan Character — Specimen of an Afghan Highlander — Road from Khushi — Logar River at Hisarak — Country around Logar — Lawless Troops — March from Hisarak — Inhabitants of the Logar Valley — Produce of the District—Vineyards — Afghan Leek-— Other Products — Industrial Pursuits— Popularity of the British among the Afghans— A Grateful Sipahi — Country between Tanji Wardak and Haidar Khail — Sanjit- trees — Description of Road traversed — A Robber Village — March from Haidar Khail — Conformation of Country — Reported Lead and Antimony Mines — A desolate Scene — " Granary of Kabul " — Hunting " Jerboas" — Absence of Vegetation round Swara — Curious Fodder — Road from Swara to Ghazni— Sher-Dahan Pass — Tomb of Sultan Mahmud— Desecrated by the British in 1843— -The Fakirs and their Garden — "Minars of Ghazni" — The surrounding Country — The Fortress — Decay of the City — The Inhabitants — Trade — Products — Varieties of Population — Winter at Ghazni — Dust-storm — A tumultuous Scene — Sudden Change — Suffocating Effects of the Storm — The succeeding Kain — En route for Yarghatti — Gal Koh Mountains — Supposed to contain the " Philosopher's Stone " — Dreary Prospect — Description of the " Karaizha," or Streams used for Irrigation — The Ghazni Karaiz — Dearth of Afghan Philanthropists — Cost of constructing the Karaizha — Mode of Irrigation — A prolific Source of Dispute — Village Feud — Country beyond Yarghatti — Encampment — Hebdomadal Concert of the Peris at the Pool of Mukkur — Sacred Trout — Drenching Storm — Varieties of Water— Caravan— Famine at Kandahar— Tidings of our Approach — Oriental Exaggeration — Country round Gholjan — Nadir Shah's Pyramid of Skulls — GhilzaiFlocks and Ravine Deer— Magnificent Camels — An Envoy and his Presents — A jovial old Afghan — Rejuvenescent Medicine — Route to Kiluti Ghilzai— Nomad Encampments — Exciting Chase after Gazelles — Afghan Paterfamilias en route — Afghan Standard of Politeness. . . . . . .168

Chapter IV

The Governor of Kilati Ghilzai — An Afghan Welcome — A slovenly Regiment— Officers' Uniform — Afghan Band — Our Reception at the Governor's House — Famine in Kandahar — General Faramurz Khan — Afghan cuisine a credit to the Ladies of the Haram — Extraordinary Disease — Mohammad 'Umr Khan — Curious Conveyance — We resume our March — A superior Escort — Inquiries about London — Disbelief in the Electric Telegraph — Singular Appearance of the Villages — Prevalence of Ophthalmia — Country beyond Jaldak — Despatches from Peshawar and Conclusion of the Persian War — " Arrow- flight " Pillar — Ruins of an unknown City — Advance to Khail-i-Akhun — Accession of Fever and Ague — Probable Cause — The Rivtr Tarnak — Road from Khail-i-Akhun — Plain of Kandahar — Deserted Melon-grounds — March to Kandahar — Reception at the Kabul Gate — Residence of the Heir- Apparent — Salute of tattered Soldiers — " God save the Queen " — The Audience-Hall — The Heir- Apparent— Panegyric on the British — Our Quarters— Curious Coincidence— Presents— Romantic Story of a Wandering German— His unknown Fate — Intelligence Agency — Famine and viii CONTENTS.

PAGE

Pestilence in Kandahar— ffilthy State of the City— Dreadful Sufferings — Cause of the Famine — Difficulty of procuring Forage— Exorbitant Price of Grain— A Conspiracy and Punishment of the Author— Ruins of the " Old City " of Kandahar— Inscriptions— Alexander the Great- Origin of the New City — General Nott's Cantonments— " Charitable Dispensary " — A Spy— Charity not an Afghan Virtue— Attendance at the Dispensary — Brutal Treatment of Applicants — A Remonstrance against Afghan Extortion — Admonition heavier as it descends — Interruption of News from India— A pompous Physician — Doctors disagree — Incongruous Medical Stores — A Surgical Operation — Proclamation of the Shah of Persia-^The Sardar's Promises— Military Inspection — Arrival of News— Fate of a Blasphemer — False Report— The Heir Apparent and his Cure for Rheumatism — Review of Infantry Regiments —British Prestige— Soldier Ruffians— Dastardly Affray — Mohammadan Lent — Illness of the Heir Apparent — Panic at Court — Discomfiture of the Hakims— Their continued Resistance — Recovery of the Sardar— Afghan Books — News from India — The Mutiny — A Weary Time — Scenes of Wretchedness 206

Chapter V

Outbreak of the Mutiny in India — Meerut— Spread of News through Afghanistan — Loyalty of the Guide Escort — Perilous Position of the Mission — Intended Attack on the Mission — Deputation to the Sardar — The Sardar's Reply — Coolness of Major Lumsden — Terrible Reports from India — Courtesy of the Heir- Apparent — His Marriage— Mutiny of the 55th B. N. I.— Death of General Anson — u The Guides" — The Balochis — Afghan Execution — General Faramurz Khan — Rising of the Jajls — Horse Caravan — The Sardar's Appreciation of Horseflesh — Kabul Horses — Breeding Establishments — The Heir-Apparent's Stud — Dost Monammad's Arabs — The Amir urged to attack the British at Peshawar — Assafoetida Plants — The Heir-Apparent's dread of British Surgery — The Operation and its Result — The Wandering German— An English Fakir — European Spies — Siege of Delhi — Rumoured Disasters in India — Anticipated Rising of the Kandaharis — Rahm dil Khan — Disappointed Tax-payers — Government Officials — Alternations of Temperature — Persian News — Illness of the Sardar — Earthquake — Afghan Volcano (" Smoking Well") — Its Minerals — Gun-cotton " the Invention of the Devil"— Wonderful Effects of Hydrogen Gas — The Farangi Hakim in league with Satan — Demand for extraordinary Poisons — Murders— Afghan Justice — How to replenish a Treasury — Hindu Cunning — The Sardar's Army — Sipahi Burglars — Wounds inflicted by the Charah — Afghan Mode of Staunching Haemorrhage — Salve for Wounds — Temperature — Vineyards — Afghan Wines — Gardens round Kandahar — Variety and Cheapness of Fruit . . . 253

Chapter VI

Reports of the Indian Mutiny — Mohammadan Festival — Ceremonies — Holiday-making — Quail-fighting— Cracking Eggs— Neza-bazi— Dangerous Dispute— Military Tumult — Discharge of Fireworks — Weary Time —Massacre at Cawnpore— Siege of Delhi— Afghan Opinion of the

CONTENTS. IX

PAGE

Mutiny— Visit from the Heir-Apparent — His Hypocrisy — A feverish Week — The Red Wine of Kabul— News from India— Anticipated Fall of Delhi — Death of the Maharajah of Kashmir— Griefs of the Sardar — Delicate Position— Illness of the Heir- Apparent — Rumours — Position of the Mission— News from India— Rumoured Return of the Persian Army —State of Herat— Outbreak and Dispersion of the 51st B. N. L— Letter from the Amir— Progress of the Siege of Delhi— Mutinous Spirit of the Bombay Native Army— Health of the Mission— Disturbances among the Balochis— Mysterious Epistle— Quail-shooting— Afghan Rifles — Accurate Firing — Rifle Practice — Shooting at an Egg— Ruse of the Sardar— Despatch from the Amir — Pleasant News — More Quail-shooting— General Faramurz Khan's Water-spaniel — Fete Champtire — Dinner at the Sardar's— A Lord Chamberlain's Curiosity — Non-arrival of the Dak . . 291

Chapter VII

Visit to the Sardar — An Afghan Artist — Good News from India — Siege of Delhi — General Nicholson — Absurd Rumours — The Sardar's Artillery — Partridge-shooting — Abundance of Game — Trapping— Deer- stalking — A State Criminal — Despatch from Colonel Taylor — An Accident — More Good News from India— Arrival of British Officers at Herat — Unpleasant Rumours — Sanitary Condition of Kandahar — Another " Coup de Finance " — Afghan Love of Money — A Picnic and its Consequences— Disaffection of the Soldiery — Afghan Penuriousness — Increase of Sickness — Journey towards Girishk — Return to Kandahar — Accident to one of the " Guides " — Setting a dislocated Bone — Afghan Method — How to reduce a dislocated Shoulder or Ankle — Indugence in forbidden Drinks— A suspicious Brandy Bottle— Afghan Tobacco- Mode of Cultivation — Consumption — Pungent Snuff— Modes of taking it — The Chi lam — Tobacco-smoking universal — Its Effects as practised by the Afghans — Review of the Sardar's Regiment of Dragoons — Its Failure — Prospects of our Return to India .... 320

Chapter VIII

Approach of Winter— Mode of curing Meat— Arrival of Stores from Peshawar — Gradual Suppression of the Mutiny — Dak from Herat — Sultan Jan's Family — Punishment of an Adulteress — Seclusion of the Afghan Ladies — Social Intercourse among the Men — Prevalance of Intrigue — The Afghan the most Immoral of Orientals — Ruffian Soldiery — Barbarous Execution — Cause of Crime among the Soldiery — Affrays with Civilians — Change of Dress — Nomad Encampments — Manufactures — The Afghan National Dresses — The "Postm" — The "Khosai" — " Choga "—Nomad Tent — Winter Dress— Exercise — " Skipping "— Robbery of our Kasid — Arrival of News from India— Serenade by the Sardar's Band — Christmas Carols — Anger of the Sardar, and Punishment of the Bandsmen — Thoughts of Home — Christmas Dinner— Capture of the King of Delhi and Defeat of the Mutineers— Interview with the Sardar — Horse-race — Fall of an Afghan Jockey — Training — Second Race— Great Excitement — Betting — Afghan Fondness for Horse-exercise— Extraordinary Ride of an Irregular Horseman — Governor of Kilati Ghilzai — Snipe and Duck Shooting — Last Day of the Year . 34

X CONTENTS.

Chapter IX. Page

The Sardar and his Officials— Fattah Mohammad Khan— His Curiosity about Europe and America— Asiatic Superstitions— Fabulous Tribes- Terrible Amazons—" Alexander's Wall "—Afghan Notion of Astronomy — Dense Vapour — Fall of Snow — A would-be Assassin, and Candidate for Paradise — Fruitless Investigation — Interview with the Sardar — Stifling Atmosphere — Intense Cold — The Peshawar Dak — Gradual Suppression of the Mutiny — Dak Robbery — Trickery of the Amir — Temperature — Spread of Typhus Fever — Opposite Methods of Curing a Broken Leg — Sufferings of the Patient, and Quarrelling of the Doctors — Dangerous Operation — Ahmad Khan in extremis — His ultimate Recovery and Gratitude — An honest and downright Afghan — His Opinion of the British — " Who can resist the White Devil ?" — Another Financial Stroke — Heavy fall of Snow — Snow-balling — Amazement of the Sardar's Troops — Retreat of the Afridis — The Fakir's Oracle — A Seditious Prophecy Verified — Afghan Prophets — Charms and Omens — The " Evil Eye " — Disappearance of the Snow — Typhus in the Residency— Story of an educated Native Doctor — His Death — Embalming a Custom of the Afghans — Spread of Typhus among our Followers and in the City — Its Disappearance — Frightful Sufferings of the Kandaharis — Measurement of Afghans — Their average Height — Suspicions of the Sardar — Illness of the Sardar and his Recovery — A busy Time — Quarrel over a Proselyte — Excitement among the Hindus — Deputation to the Heir-Apparent — The Sardar's "Itching Palm " — Circumvention of the Mullahs — Their Rage — Abuse of the Mission — Expulsion of the Mullahs — Their Re-entry into the City — Fanaticism let Loose — Tumult — Attack and Flight of the Kazi — Dispersion of the Rioters — Savage Scene — Indecision of the Heir-Apparent — Dangerous Position of the Mission — Night-watch — The Storm Past — Triumph of the Mullahs — Confident bearing of the Sardar — His ultimate Vengeance — Frightful Mortality — Exciting Rumours — Dak from Peshawar — The Rains — Excellent Sport — Varieties of Game — Sporting among the Afghans— Shooting Boxes— Decoys. ...... 373

Chapter X

Letter from Colonel Taylor— Return of Sardar Allahdad Khan — State of Herat — Proposed departure of the Heir-Apparent — Reported Illness of Dost Mohammad — Nomad Encampments — Immense Flocks of Goats and Sheep — Preparations for the Heir-Apparent's Departure — Unwonted Bustle — Farewell Visit from the Sardar — Conjunction of favourable Omens — A Ruffian Escort — Unfortunate Predictions — Quiet Departure of the Sardar — Mullah Guests on the March — Assumed Piety of the Heir-Apparent — Outwitted Priests — Supposed to have been Poisoned — Character of the Afghan Chief — Afghan Pride — Their Character as a Nation— Prevalence of Sickness at Kandahar — Arrival of Daks from Peshawar — Another Death in our Escort — News from Herat — Sardar Rahmdll Khan — A pilgrim Chieftain— Despatches recalling the Mission — Reasons for not returning by the Bolan Pass — The Paiwar Route — Fattah Mohammad Khan's Banquet — Oriental Appreciation of Knives and Forks — European and Oriental Modes of Eating — Shooting Party —

CONTENTS. XI

PAGE

Afghan Hospitality — Hunting Feast — Rahmdil Khan's Garden — Summer-Houses — Fountains — Orchards — Want of Artistic Arrangement— Odours of coming Breakfast — Afghan Table — Roast Sheep — Its Accompaniments — Our Bill of Fare— Our Places at Table — Preliminary Ablutions — "Balochi Kabab" — Afghan Waiters — Thanksgiving — A grateful Chilam — Voracious Attendants — Partridge Shooting — Eve of Ratnazan — An anxious City — Prayerful Mullahs — Hypocritical Priests — Suspension of Business — Oriental Lent — Its strict Observance — Indulgence amongst the Higher Classes — The Farangi Hakim an Advocate of Kamazan — Mohammadan Malingerers — An Apathetic Sardar — Dust-storm — Rumour from Kabul — Its Origin — Feud among the Chieftains — Anxiety of the Amir for its Suppression — Dangers of the Road — An Appeasing Sacrifice — Origin of the Feud and its Termination— Inactivity of Fattah Mohammad — The " Origin of Human Ills," and their Panacea — Practice of Native Physicians — The Cautery — *' Controlling the Naf" — Painful Operation— Muscular Cure for Fever . 405

CHAPTER XL

Reported Defeat of the Persian Army — Delay of our Departure for Peshawar — Kidnapping our Camels — Surprise of Fattah Mohammad — Proposed Expedition for Recovery of lost Camels — Firmness of Major Lumsden — Taking Leave of an Afghan Chief— Our last Breakfast at Kandahar — Commencement of our Keturn — Our Exit from the Citadel — A Sardar's Blessing — Boisterous Farewell — Our Camp at Deh Kliojah — Confusion in Camp — Noisy Fakirs — How to pronounce '\Allah " — Demoniacal Fakir — Muscular " Allahu " — How the Mullahs pronounce "Allah" and "Allahu" — Contagious Devotion — Intercession of Mohammadan Saints — March to Kila i Mahmancl — Return of Faramurz Khan — A lazy Chieftain — En route for Khail i Akhun — A miserable Hamlet — Robbery of Persian Travellers — Expedition against the Robbers — Capture of a ferocious Band — Divided Sympathies — Khan Gul — His Story — Another March — Conformation of Country — New Plants — Elevation of District — Return Camp near Jaldak — Cholera — Temperature — Halt at Kilati Ghilzai — An Irregular Salute — Excruciating Music — A Despot from the Nursery — Applicants for Medicine— Variety of Diseases — "Wind of the Tarnak " — Dust-mist — Lead Mine— The Ore— -Departure of the " Master of the Horse " — Perquisites of our Escort — Unwilling Hosts — Valley of the Tarnak — Dreary Aspect of the Country — The " Bad i Tarnak" again — Diseases of the District — A Funeral Party — End of an Afghan Villain — Camp at Mukkur — Departure from Mukkur — March by Moonlight — Conformation of the Country — Temperature — Change of Escort — Oppressive Politeness — A rheumatic Naib — General Epithet for Afghan Ailments — March from Oba — An eccentric Chieftain — Smoking Apparatus — " Get-up " of Afghan Travellers — Fondness for the Chilam — Camp at Ghazni — Disreputable Party of Horsemen — Blown away from the Guns, and for what ? — Presents from the Heir- Apparent — His Illness — Country about Swara — Another March — Rich Country — Feast of the Musquitoes — Magnificent View of the Hindu Kush — Messenger from the Heir- Apparent- Continuance of his Illness-— Reported Insurrection of the Jajis— Absence

Xll CONTENTS.

PAGE

of Escort at Khushi — A fidgety Afghan — Dropping in of our Escort — Illness of Foujdar Khan—The Multanis get tired of Kabul — The " most villanous Cityof Al Islam" — False Reports — A spirited Escort — Confusion of a Commandant — Camp at Hazrah Thannah — March through Hazardarakht Defile — Again en route, and another Camp — Paiwar Kohtal Pass — Jajis' Barricades — Their sullen Humility — Our Reception by Mohammad 'Azim Khan — Prevalence of Intermittent Fever — Character of Mohammad 'Azim — Arrival in British Territory — Dissolution of the Mission 438

APPENDIX: —

List of Plants gathered in Afghanistan .... 477

LIST OF ILLUSTRATIONS.

Provindiah and Mahmand Afghans . ... To face Title.

From Photographs.

Afridis ........ Page 102

Prom a Sketch by Capt. P. S. Lumsden.

Tons of Kurram . . . . . . „ 118

From a Sketch by Capt. Fane.

Village of Madsai, and Bodin Peak, Upper Kurram . . „ 133

From a Sketch by Capt, Fane.

Ghazni, from the South- West . . . . „ 185

From a Sketch by Capt. P. S. Lumsden.

Kilati Ghilzai ......,.„ 204

From a Sketch by Capt. P. S. Lumsden.

City of Kandahar, from the Churnmun . . . . ,,218

From a Sketch by Capt. P. S. Lumsden.

The King's Own Jazailchis ....... 234

From a Sketch by Capt. P. S. Lumsden.

THE appearance of the following pages has been delayed by various causes.

On the return of the Kandahar Mission to Peshawar in June, 1858, the Official Keports by its several members were submitted to Government with as little delay as practicable.

Some months subsequently I commenced a digest of my notes made whilst with the Mission, with a view to their publication, but abandoned the task on learning that Government had decided on publishing our Official Reports. At the close of i 859, 1 learned that our Reports, though they had been printed, were not published, and I again bethought me of my notes. But the onerous duties associated with the medical charge of a Hill station during 1860 and 1861 allowed but scant leisure for their arrangement in the form I thought most suited for publication, viz. that of a Journal. Every available leisure hour, however, was occupied in putting them into form with this object in view.

Possibly they may be found to contain some information which is not entirely new, for the ground had already been traversed by Europeans ; and, perhaps, in some instances, subjects which have already been dis-

XIV PREFACE.

cussed by my predecessors on this ground have been again brought to the surface in these pages. This, however, is unavoidable, for whilst at Kandahar, with the exception of Burnes', Hough's, and Kaye's works, we were without books relating to the country, and I have not since had the opportunity or leisure to consult other authors for the purpose of eliminating from my notes anything they may have previously described.

My notes and observations on the origin of the Afghans (related in the Introduction) are such as I was able to gather at Kandahar under very disadvantageous circumstances as respects reference to European authors on the subject. Since my return to India, I have seen a somewhat similar account in the introduction to Captain Kaverty's Pukhtu Grammar. But as my account differs from it in some essentials, I have given it unaltered and in full.

At this time it is hoped that the following account of the British Mission to Kandahar in 1857-58 may not be altogether without some interest ; more especially as the present political state of Afghanistan promises ere long to bring the affairs of that country prominently before the European public.

The discussion of the politics, past or present, of Afghanistan has been studiously avoided in these pages. But I may here state that the hopes of the future tranquillity of that country are fast ebbing away.

The daily reports brought down from the capital of Afghanistan are a succession of exposes of the waning age and authority of that extraordinary Kuler, who, partly through the influence of his former relations with the British in India, but mostly through his wonderful firmness, sagacity and statecraft, has managed to control

PREFACE. XV

and govern a notoriously turbulent nation for the last twenty years, with credit to himself and benefit to his subjects; both being judged according to the Oriental standard and the previous history of the country.

The present aspect of affairs at Kabul, to judge from the accounts that are daily brought down to Peshawar, is most ominous. These accounts convey some idea of the court intrigues and dissensions now rife among the Amir's sons and the chiefs of the country, and at the same time serve to indicate the violence of the storm that will follow as soon as the present Euler is removed from the scene of his power and usefulness.

This is a crisis which in the course of nature may be expected to occur at any moment ; for the constant attacks of illness under which the Dost is now reported to suffer, are but symptoms of the decay of a constitution which has already exceeded by some years the three score and ten allotted to man.

H. W. B.

Murdan, Yusufzai, 24=th March, 1862,

Introduction

THE principal events connected with the first acquaintance of the British with the Afghans, their subsequent relations with them, together with the sad disasters resulting therefrom, and their final withdrawal from Afghanistan, are now matters of history, and of so recent a date as to be still fresh in the memory, and consequently needing no recital in these pages.

Before, however, passing on to a relation of the causes which, in the minds of those entrusted with the government of the British Empire in India, rendered it advisable, in concert with the Amir of Kabul, to depute a Mission of British officers to Kandahar in the year 1857, for objects which will be more particularly noticed hereafter, it is deemed desirable to introduce a few preliminary remarks on the physical characters of the country, its productions and races. And the more so, as since the memorable years 1841-42, when Afghanistan acquired a world- wide notoriety by reason of the deeds of thrilling and mournful interest then enacted at Kabul, it has been shut out from the world, and, as it were, sunk in oblivion, until, in 1857, its ruler and people again became the subjects of amicable relations with the British Government in India.

PART I.

AFGHANISTAN AND ITS PEOPLE,

AFGHANISTAN AND ITS PEOPLE,

Chapter I

Designation and Topography of Afghanistan — Khorassiin — Geographical Formation and Climate — Rivers — Natural Productions — Exports — Manufactures — Animals — Falconry — Variety of Inhabitants — The Tajik Tribe — Description of the Kazzilbashes — The Hazurah Tribe — The Hindkis and Jats — The Afghans — Language — Manners and Customs — Fixed and Nomad Population — Laws of Hospitality — Chiefs — -The Priests, or " Elders " — Internal Commerce — Industrial Occupations — Physical and Moral Qualities of the Afghans — Religion and Literature — Marriage Customs — Afghan Theology and Superstition— Amusements — Diet — Afghan Dress — Dyes — Manner of wearing the Hair — Afghan Women — Government and Laws — Army — Militia — Military Power of Afghanistan.

THE country inhabited by the Afghans, and known generally to their neighbours and to foreigners by the name of Afghanistan, or country of the Afghans, is not so designated by the Afghans themselves, although the name is not unknown to them. By the Afghans their country is usually called "Wilayat" (hence the term " Wilayati" often applied to its people by the natives of Hindustan), or native country; but it is also distinguished by two appellations, including different portions of territory, viz. "Kabul," or " Kabulistan," which includes all that mountainous region north of Ghazni and Sufaid Koh as far as Hindu Kush, limited towards the west by the

1—2

Hazarah country (the ancient Paropamisus) , and eastward, by the Abba- Sin, or Father of Rivers, the Indus ; and "Hhorassfin," or "Zfibulistan," which includes all that extensive tract of country, Alpine in its eastern limits, and table-land or desert in its western extent, which stretches southward and westward from about the latitude of Grhazni, and borders on the confines of Persia, from which towards the south it is separated by the desert of Sistan. Khorfissan, towards the north, presents a very irregular outline, and is bounded in that direction by the mountains of Haziirah and Grhor ; towards the south, it is separated from Balochistan by the Washati range of mountains, and the Baloch provinces of Sarawan and Kach Gandaba ; and towards the east, the Stilaiman range of mountains, with its subordinate ranges, and the "Daman," or country skirting their bases as far as the Indus (which itself constitutes the barrier between the regions of Hindustan and Khorassari) , form its limits in that direction,