In the Lena Delta : a narrative of the search for Lieut.-Commander De Long and his companions, followed by an account of the Greely relief expedition and a proposed method of reaching the North pole

Front matter

S % WEN S RRA SNS A EX UNAA . § .: Pat RS RRR S WN S 3 SY ‘ SS AN Ss SS 2 AN \ ‘ N ft, sae 3 Ne . Ey SS us * SS SS NNN CR Se oC .

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Chapter I Off For The Pole

The Jeannette Expedition. Our Departure. — Unalaska.— St. Michael’s. — The Tchuchees. — Nordenskjold. — Frozen in. —

DRIFTING.

Shipboard Economy. — A Frozen Wave. — Lead- las —_ My Visit to’Henrietta Island... . 3... Yt PORES CHAPTER III.

CAST UPON THE ICE.

Life in the Upper Cabin. — Our Situation. — The Jeannette | goes down.— Camping.— Marching. . . ...... 27

CHAPTER IV.

RETREATING OVER THE PACK.

Game. — Retrogression. — Beans. — Progress at Last. — Bennett Island. — In the Boats. — Our Dogs. o— Sant en the Meee we EES Pe REE) Vee me an . 40

CHAPTER V.

VOYAGE OF THE WHALE-BOAT.

Weathering the Gale. — Our Sea-Anchor. — Siberia in Sight . 66

Vili CONTENTS.

CHAPTER VI.

ON THE LENA DELTA,

Sailing up Stream.— The Hut. — Our Frozen Limbs. — Meeting with the Natives.— Learning their Language. . . . . 77

CHAPTER VII.

UP THE LENA.

My Unsuccessful Effort ‘‘ to go it alone.’? — Vasilli Kool Gar. — My Duck Diplomacy.— Fears of Seurvy. — Arii, the Deserted Village. — Spiridon, the Ugly Starosti. — Siberian Ice- Cellars..——Jamaveloch . ./u.. . .). |. ie rr

CHAPTER VIII.

AT JAMAVELOCH.

Nicolai Chagra.— An Impressive Pantomime.— The ‘ Red Fiend.’’? — Over-Ripe but Green Geese.— Devotions. — A Balogan described |). 6 lisa oe Pe) ele) ae

CHAPTER IX.

SIBERIAN LIFE.

Balked again. — The Balogan Americanski. — A Row with the Starosti. — Catching Fish.— Deer and Geese Hunting. . . 123

CHAPTER X.

KUSMA TO OUR RESCUE.

Incidents in Our Balogan. — Kusma. — Faithless Spiridon . . 134

CHAPTER XI.

A STEP FORWARD.

Kusma’s Coming. — Nindemann and Noros. —I start for Belun. — Siberian Dog-Sleds. — A Storm.—Ku Mark Surt . . . 142

CHAPTER XII.

AT BELUN.

I am admired. — Deer-Sleds. — Buruloch. — Native Gossips. — Meeting with Nindemann and Noros.— Their Piteous Story. — The Malinki Pope. — An aaliedies Visit from Bartlett. — Back to Buruloch. . .. . 6 RS a ag ee oe

CONTENTS.

CHAPTER XIII. _ SEARCHING FOR DE LONG.

Bieshoff. — Poor Jack Cole. —I start in Quest of De Long. — At Ku Mark Surt again.— How to eat Raw Fish.— The Maiden with the Lively Tresses. — Bulcour. — “ The Place of the Three Crosses.” — Sleeping in the Snow. — Mat Vay. — I cree te 8 LM areal ef as

CHAPTER XIV.

LOSING THE TRAIL.

Treachery. —I make a Cannibalistic Threat. — Cass Carta. — A Late Supper of Deer Hoofs and Horns. — Benumbed. — Another Night in the Snow. — ‘ Balogan soak! ’’? — North Belun. —I dive into a Hut and “ receive.’? — Two Precious Bumagas. —A Yakut Bride. — Sleeping in Close Quarters. — An Ignoble Economy. — Definite Tidings oltés

CHAPTER XV.

A TRIP TO THE ARCTIC SHORE.

Ballok. — The Boos Byral. — The Cache.—I am hoodwinked again. — Topographical Revelations. — Myacks. — Our Despised Mock and Tas. — A Coveted Demijohn. — Phadee Achin MME Sea ONT ne (als wanupeah Vee (shy.

CHAPTER XVI.

STRUGGLING WITH BOREAS.

Daring the Storm. — The Suffering of the Dogs. — At Macha. —“ Ballook soak! ’’ — Foot-Prints. — Straying. — Sister Ganak. — Odorous Offal for Supper. — Remorseless Weather. — Qu Vina. — More Offal.— Vos Crusina. —A Bone Cache. — River Bergs.— Seeking Refuge in the Snow. — Breakfasting on Putrid Deer Bones .

CHAPTER XVII.

END OF MY FIRST SEARCH.

Forcing the Journey. — ‘‘ Oo, oo.’? — Bulcour. — Rough Repairing. — ‘‘ Paddy ”’ despairs. — But quickly revives. — And performs Wonders. — Ku Mark Surt. — Buruloch. — My Deer Train. — On to Belun. — Tedious Progress. — Ajaket. — Belun. — Epatchieff : «5 eae

. 201

. 211

. 228 yA | CONTENTS.

CHAPTER XVIII.

FROM BELUN TO VERKERANSK.

My Record of the Journey. — Minus 45° Réaumur.— A Russian’s Views of America and her Institutions. — Kasharofski. —M. Leon. — My Letter of Instructions. — A Visit to the Hut of the Exiles. —Leon’s Case.— Life at Verkeransk. — ¥acts about the Political Exiles ©. °..7.\"%- 5) >. oo eee

CHAPTER XIX, FROM VERKERANSK TO YAKUTSK.

Penavitch. — Doctor Buali.— His Sad Story.— Those Terrible - Nihilists. —‘‘ A Dead Nihilist and a Dead Czar.’’ — Happy Lovers. —I take a Remarkable Russian Bath, and a Very Bad Cold. — Off to Yakutsk. — Siberian Scenery. — The Horse and his Troubles. — A Queer Predicament. — Kangerack. — Crossing the Divide. — A Dangerous Descent.— A Tunguse Home. — Exasperating Yamshicks. — A Sickening Sight. — Native Grist-Mills. — A Learned Exile. — The SCAMS Petia oe a= banssS, Ye am pia h a gh >) Ouest o dike ec

CHAPTER XX.

AT YAKUTSK.

The ‘‘ Balogan Americanski.’? — General Tschernaieff. — How he received me. — Mr. Danenhower and Party set out for America. — Instructions from the Department. — Praesnik. — Preparations for my Second Search. — Yakutsk Society. — New Year’s Eve. — Nova Goat. — The Bishop receives. — Masquerading. — Bulky Money . ....... . « 272

CHAPTER XXI.

NORTH AGAIN.

Off for Verkeransk.— A Climatic Surprise. — The Journey to Belun.— Arrangements for the Search. — A Rough Ride to Jamaveloch. — Futile Attempts to dispatch Fish. — A ‘‘ Corner’? in Fish. — Indignant Coperts.— The Gamblers of the Lena Delta.— Paying off Old Scores. — Humbled Nicolai and Kepentant Spiriddn 4.3)... ee se

CONTENTS. xl

CHAPTER XXII.

STORM-BOUND.

Arctic Weather. — Pedestrian Difficulties. — Lost in the Village. — Outstripping the Typhoon. — Continuance of the Same Old Gale. — A Yakut Solution of a Financial Problem.

— Off for Arii. — Chul-Boy-Hoy. — Golivar Compass. — Turkanach.— An Afflicted Family. — Ordono.— Qu Vina. — At Cass Carta. — Our Palatial Quarters. — In Distress. — Timely Relief. — Together at Last.— The Art of Broiling Steaks. — A Reminiscence.— A Twenty-Pound Drink. — emer and kenuctice FilLniness. 2... ee we we 297

CHAPTER XXIII.

FINDING THE BODIES.

Getting Affairs in Shape. — My Map of the Delta. — Searching for Ericksen’s Hut. — Revelations. — Contending with the Storm. — The Yakut Fashion of Lighting Fires. — A Miserable Night. — Which Cape ?— A Clue. — The Myack.—_ Found. — De Long’s Ice-Journal and Its Sad Entries. — Positions of the Bodies. — De Long’s Pistol. — A False Report. — Dr. Ambler. — Appearance of the Dead. —“ Dwee Pomree ”’ 319

CHAPTER. XXII.

THE BURIAL.

Bringing in the Dead. — Writing under Difficulties. — Selecting a Burial Ground. —‘* Around the Corner.”— The Finding of Lee and Kaack.— Monument Hill. — Constructing the Coffin and Cross. — Nindemann discovers Ericksen’s Hut. — Erecting the Tomb-Cairn. — The Simple Obsequies. — A Superstitious Soldaiski.— A Yakut Bumaga ... . . 337

CHAPTER XXYV.

SEARCHING FOR CHIPP.

Mr. Gilder. —Starting the Records off. — Kigolak.— Sava. — Sabas Kokoo. — Turak. — Jaolak. — The “ Little Foxes.” — Chanker. — The Alanek Country and Natives. — The Village of Alanek.— The Fate of Pronchishcheff.— A Trip to the Graves of Pronchishcheff’s Party. — A Coastwise Search. — xii CONTENTS.

Yakut Divorce Laws. — Our Wretched Dogs. — Koobalak. — At Cass Carta again. — Nindemann’s and Bartlett’s Searches. —Journeying back to Jamaveloch.— Native Coffins and Modesor sDurial eb. eee NS I ae fee

: CHAPTER XXVI.

as MY FINAL SEARCH TO THE JANA RIVER.

The Rodgers. — Mr. Gilder’s Culpable Conduct. — Harber and Schuetze. — Noros and Jackson. — Mr. Larsen. — Jackson’s Vandalism. — Eating Wood. — Shumomea. — Oceansk. — Mammoth Ivory. — Off for Verkeransk. — The Exiles once more. — A Letter from Berry.— On Horseback to Yakutsk.

— Our Miserable Equipment and Ride to Kangerack.— The ‘Rapid Thaw. —‘‘ Jacksoned.”’ — The Experience of Bubokoff. — Kolinkin and Gilder.— Siberian Cattle . . . . . 367

CHAPTER XXYVII.

:* THROUGH SIBERIA.

Meeting with Berry and Hunt. —JIn the Valley of the Aldan. — ‘Dismal John.’’ — Traveling through the Flooded Dis- ..trict. — A Tuneguse Family en route. — Crossing the Aldan. — A Picturesque Scene. — Arrival at Yakutsk.— On Board the Pioneer. — Mosquitoes. —Castellated Cliffs. — Passing ~ the Harber Party. — Copert Barges. — The Voyage to Karinsk.— On the Constantine and the Tow-Boats. — In the Tarantass. — ‘¢ Ivan” the Fictitious Friend. — Irkutsk.— The'Story of my, Watch 7 oe eee se

CHAPTER XXVIII.

HOMEWARD BOUND.

Governor Anutchin.— On to Tomsk. — A Current Ferry-Boat. — Agricultural Settlements. — Rascally Stancia-Keepers and Yamshicks. — Their Methods. — Exiles in Droves. — At Tomsk. — The ‘‘ Hotel Million.””? — Attentive Mr. Hildenberger. — On the River Obi. — Tobolsk. — Tuamen. — Floating Jails. — Ekaterinborg. — Perm. — Nijni Novgorod and the Great Bazaar. — Moscow. — St. Petersburg. — Our Reception. — A Day at Peterhof.—Home. ..... . . 897

CONTENTS. xiii

THE GREELY RELIEF EXPEDITION.

ances

CHAPTER I...

NORTHWARD ONCE MORE.

Failure of the Neptune, Proteus, and Yantic to Relieve Greely. — My Proposal. — The Plan and Fitting Out of the br dition. — St. John’s. — DiscoIsland. . .. . . 414

Chapter II. Racing In The Arctic Waters

Upernavik. — The Whalers. — Captain Walker’s Story.— The Bear Aground. — Racing. — Nipped. — The Duck Islands. — Off Cape York.— Conical Rock . . . . . . . . . 427

Chapter III. The Rescue

Saunders Island. — Cape Parry. — Littleton Island. — Finding the Records.— The Greely Party. — Scenes at cone Clay.

—Preserving the Dead . ... » 445

-CHAPTER IV.

THE RETURN VOYAGE.

Reminiscences. — Foulke Fiord. — The Intonstant Esquimaux. — The Burial of Frederic Christiansen. — St. John’s. — IIE EIN OW? YODK 94 oe beet esl hes) who) ah aye 461

A PROPOSED METHOD OF REACHING THE NORTH ee vy) aR ay Ce F . 471

Appendix

The Melville Sled . . .. Pa ae eke. ee a RE SOU Equipment of Arctic Expeditions . a oe eh ees to, ee

, j ; ‘alas ’ uf ae Mar ‘ , Le) : Sas Pahatt 3} 1 Ate at A A Oe

Dee ariic ts ait) nate ay er y aed & ve , arent i Y 4 iy ‘ rs 1 ‘ My 2

.

: Pate

Aes

LIST OF ILLUSTRATIONS.

Pace,

PoRTRAIT OF CHIEF ENGINEER MELVILLE. . « » «Frontispiece.

THE JEANNETTE LEAVING SAN FRANCISCO .

SCENES ON THE VOYAGE OF THE JEANNETTE. . .*. .. .. 24 TakinG Possession oF BENNETT ISLAND : 44 THE SEPARATION OF THE Boats IN THE GALE. ..... . 64 EXTERIOR AND INTERIOR Views OF ExiteE Houses... . . 112 Deane an EARTY WADING Agvornn. ........ =. . 144 THe RescuE OF NINDEMANN aND Noros ........ . 164 Native Houses anp Station In THE DELTA ..... . . 186 STARTING OFF IN SEARCH oF De Long. ........ . 224 Tue City or Yaxutsk. (Froma photograph.) .... . . « 272 FINDING THE Bopies or De Lone anp HIS COMPANIONS . . . 330 PETG mek DELTA. . <5 es fe hee wl ws O44 LanpinG LIEUTENANT GREELY AT LaDy FRANKLIN Bix Meamtvangie? 1. IncIDENTS IN THE ReEscUE OF THE GREELY PARTY ... . . 456 MmeemeemrAnoTTO CLOTHING: . . « . « ss 0 «6 « « « 488 MAPS.

Tur Lena Detta: Showing all the localities mentioned in the text ; the routes taken by the De Long and Melville parties, and by the CEE ge te ee eee a el ewe) wy 208 Tue Course OF THE JEANNETTE: Showing also the route taken by the ship’s crew after the sinking of the vessel, and the course CY 0) Sn Tue Cuannets Nortu or Barrin’s Bay: Showing the highest points reached by the Greely and Nares expeditions; the route taken by Lieutenant Greely in the retreat; the Neptune’s highest point in the attempt to rescue in 1882, etc., etc. (From the latest ETI OFSCTER) Jo Ya we el eae sh <, ste ee ve) 482 Tue Circumpotar Recion: Showing the highest points reached in different longitudes; the probable drift of the Jeannette if she had not sunk; Melville’s proposed route to the pole, etc., etc. . 476

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IN THE LENA DELTA.

Chapter I. Off For The Pole

The Jeannette Expedition. — Our Departure. — Unalaska. — St. Michael’s. — The Tchuchees. — Nordenskjold. — Frozen in. — Herald Island.

THE Kuro-Shiwo (the black current of Japan) runs around the Japanese Islands, threads its way among the Kurile Islands, passes eastward to Kamschatka, and thence northward to Behring Strait, where it separates into two branches. The one branch seeks the west coast of North America, and then runs south, tempering the atmosphere as it goes, until it is lost in the warm water atthe equator. The other branch passes into the Arctic Ocean, streaming up into the northeast, and was lately regarded as one of the thermometric gateways to the Pole.

Previous to the Jeannette’s voyage no polar expedition had ever set out by way of Behring Strait, although one had indeed been projected by a French lieutenant, but was prevented by the breaking out of the Franco- Prussian War; and a high latitude, it is true, had been gained by the search ships of the English squadron which hoped to intercept Sir John Franklin in case he was successful in making the Northwest Passage. _

The object of the Jeannette expedition was thus to reach the North Pole by following up the Kuro-Shiwo ; but it should be remembered that our first cruise (which unhappily proved both first and last) was only designed at the time to be an experimental voyage. So, resting upon this brief review of the motive of our luckless enterprise, I shall now proceed to chronicle it.

All things being in readiness, on the 8th of July, 1879, the sun shining clear and strong on the beautiful bay, we cleared from the Golden Gate, accompanied by the San Francisco Yacht Club.

Never was departure more auspicious. It was a gala day for the good people of Frisco ; the harbor was alive with their pleasure craft, and right royal was the farewell they tendered our adventurous ship. Cheers rang out from the crowded wharves; the masts and decks of the myriad vessels on the bay teemed with jolly tars, huzzaing and firing guns with a deafening effect; and as we steamed abreast of the Presidio, a heavy salute boomed forth from the fortification that seemed a solemn amen to the godspeeds of the people.

Once clear of the Gate, we headed about and left a straight wake for the island of Unalaska. Unlike the buoyant hearts of her company, the vessel was weighted down below the ordinary line of immersion, and consequently our progress was slow. The fair weather that attended our departure continued in the Pacific until the Aleutian Group was approached, when fogs set in, and, by the time the Aqueton Pass was reached, grew so dense that it became necessary to anchor and await their lifting. Even then the breakers had been dangerously neared, for though the islands were invisible, the sea-birds could be distinctly heard cawing on the rocks.

At last the fog lifted from around the Jeannette, and, after a pleasant voyage of twenty-five days, the island of Unalaska hove in sight.

Here, through the kindness of the Alaska Fur Company, a large number of deer-skins, seal-skin blankets, and other furs, to be made up for use during the expedition, were added to our cargo.

With a fresh supply of coal we then departed from Unalaska, and, crossing the shallow sea of Behring, arrived safely at St. Michael’s, in Norton Sound, — an old Russian trading-post, with a dilapidated block-house, and several ancient cast-iron guns, which were fired in honor of the Jeannette’s arrival. It was here that the schooner Fanny A. Hyde was to meet the ship with our last supply of coal; but, as she was considerably overdue, the provisions were restowed, and the undressed skins sent on shore to be made into clothing by the natives.

Here, too, Alexia, our faithful hunter, and his companion, the womanly-looking Iniguin, joined the ship. Poor Alexia, after a grand palaver with the head man of the village, shipped as hunter and dog-driver. The evening of our departure, the natives thronged on board to bid their friends farewell. Alexia, dressed in “ store clothes ” furnished by the Alaska Company’s agent, with a tiletopped Russian hat encircled by a broad red band, was accompanied by his wife, small, shy, and pretty, and their little boy. Clinging together hand in hand, they wandered and wondered with all the curiosity of children about the ship, until at last with many doubts and fears they affectionately parted, and forever.

Attended by our convoy, we now started across Norton Sound, a large sheet of water making westward into the eastern coast of Siberia. During the passage a heavy gale was encountered, affording us an opportunity to observe the vessel’s strength and action. The shallow ocean was troubled and choppy, and at times great seas would roll completely over the deeply-freighted ship as over a sunken rock; but Gibraltar itself was not more firm. ‘The day following the gale, we drew near to Lutke, a beautiful harbor just to the southward of East

Cape, where American whalemen often resort to secure recruits from the native Tchuchees before proceeding on the cruise north of Behring Strait, or after ‘* the catch ” to “try out” their oil. As the ship stood in towards the mouth of the harbor, huts were deseried on the hillside; and shortly after two bidaras — large walrus-skin boats, somewhat similar to the oomiaks of the Greenlanders — were seen putting off from the shore and approaching us at arapid rate. They contained a dozen or more natives, tall, greasy, brawny fellows, none weighing less than a hundred and eighty pounds.

_ The two dzdaras pulled alongside, and the natives boarding the ship, inquired, in broken English learned from the whalemen, if we came to hunt the walrus or the whale ; if so, they wished to engage themselves for the cruise. ‘To prove their ability, they named the various whaling captains with whom they had served, and concluded with the more important information that Nordenskjld’s ship, the Vega, had been there in the bay of St. Lawrence, and had wintered beyond the peninsula in Kiolutian Bay, where they had visited her.

And now the time was come to push off from the last vestige of civilization. ‘The remainder of the coal and supplies was transferred from the schooner to the ship, and on the evening of the 27th day of August the two vessels stood out of the bay. Once clear of the shoals, we parted, — the Fanny A. Hyde sailing to the south, the Jeannette to the north, — and the cruise had begun in earnest.

During the night we passed through the strait of Behring, — between Hast Cape (the most easterly cape of Siberia) and the Diomed Islands, three rocky little islets, the stepping-stones between two continents, — perhaps the foundations for that future bridge over which may run the engines of an all-rail route from Cape Horn to the Cape of Good Hope. <A sharp lookout was kept for natives as the ship headed westward along the coast of Siberia, towards Cape Serdzekamen (‘“‘ Heart of Stone”). Ice-hills and snow-gorged valleys were no longer a novelty ; but very cheerless and inhospitable looked the bleak black rocks, with no living thing in sight save a few sea-birds and an occasional walrus or seal. At length a collection of huts made their appearance, and the ship was run as close to the shore as possible. Captain De Long, with Alexia as interpreter and Mr. Dunbar as pilot, attempted a landing; but the heavy sea rolling and breaking over the ice-foot compelled him to return. The natives, knowing quieter water, then came to the ship in their skin boats. But Alexia was unable to understand them, save that they wanted biscuits, molasses, and rum, especially rum; so no additional information of Nordenskjéld was obtained. Further on, another village was sighted, and Lieutenant Chipp sent on shore. He effected a landing, and through an old woman who formerly lived on King’s Island in Norton Sound, and spoke the same tongue as Alexia, learned that the Vega had wintered in a bay still to the west, but had passed safely out of the ice toward the east, in the spring. Sailing westward, the seal and walrus became more plentiful. Numerous natives approached the ship, using with considerable dexterity bladders or floats to prevent their light skin boats from capsizing, or as fenders to ward them off from the ship’s side, and as buoys when overladen with the spoils of the chase. In the vicinity of the Vega’s winter-quarters, a large village was observed, and a party was sent on shore in command of Lieutenant Chipp. After a few hours the boat returned, bringing a number of articles, such as tin cans, Swedish money, and coat-buttons, which the natives— who mentioned the names of certain of the Vega’s officers, exhibiting presents they had received from them, and who particularly prized the refuse tin cans — said were relics of

Nordenskjéld’s stay there. A letter sewed up in canvas was given to the chief, with the request that he deliver it to the first vessel that passed that way.

Having now executed the instructions of the Navy Department as to Nordenskjéld and his party, we pushed northward to Kiolutian Bay, keeping constantly under way to prevent the formation of ice around the ship, and skirting along the edge of the pack, the density of which gradually forced us to the east. Working in and out of the leads of water for several days, and preserving as northerly a course as possible, Herald Island was at length sighted on the evening of September 4th. Every qpening in the pack with the least northing to it had now been tried, with the same fruitless result of being crowded off to the eastward ; so that there was positively nothing else to be done than to push boldly in towards Wrangel Land (long regarded as a large continent extending to the Pole), and seek a harbor during the fall, winter, and spring. The absurd question has often been asked, “‘ Why did the Jeannette enter the ice-pack?” | The answer is this: she was an Arctic ship bound on a polar voyage, and could not be expected to attain the Pole without encountering ice. The best authorities pointed out a continent connecting Wrangel Land with Greenland; the currents setting among the islands to the Atlantic Ocean were well known; the rotation of the earth should carry all things from west to east; and it was fair to presume that, if caught in the ice north of Herald Island, the ship would drift on the coast of ~ Wrangel Land, or to the northeast toward Prince Patrick Land.

But ‘the best laid schemes o’ mice and men gang aft a-gley.”’ As we crowded to the west, the ice set in behind and effectually cut off all chances of retreat, unless the autumn gales and rolling seas might break up the floe. A whale-ship was observed looking for game along the edge of the pack, and it was afterward regretted that she had not been spoken for the mail. But we pushed slowly ahead, with the aid of the hoisting-engine, making a warp, until the 6th of September ; when the hummocks and masses of ice became solid during the night, and the ship was frozen in with a list to starboard at an angle of ten or twelve degrees, rendering motion on the decks or sleeping in the berths very uncomfortable. Only once was she freed, and then but for an hour or two, until the final crush in June, 1881.

The crew now dispersed themselves in merry squads upon the floe, and the dogs were turned loose. Hach man was armed with a pike or staff with which to steady himself when leaping from hummock to hummock, or as a protection when slipping into ice-holes — a frequent occurrence. Bears were seen, but they kept at a safe distance during the daytime, and would make off in hot haste when pursued by the “ whoop, hurrah!” of the crew. At night, the ice —as they are better named by Norwegian and Dane, instead of polar — bears would circumambulate the vessel many times, critically examining the stout hawser that held her to a large ice-anchor, and regularly escaping the notice of the watch, and of fortyone dogs, who were shy and timid until they had tasted the good things that followed a successful bear hunt. And a most exciting sport is this. The pack of dogs run yelping and snapping at the heels of poor Ursus, who dashes across the floe in the direction of rougher country or open water with the ungracefulness of a cow but the speed of a deer, causing the snow to fly like feathers in a gale, and leaving dogs and hunters far in the rear. Often his curiosity will get the better of his judgment, and he will stop to inspect these strange creatures that dare put him to flight; for he is monarch of the polar regions, seal and walrus falling an easy prey to one blow of his powerful fore-paw. Raising himself on his hind-legs, he surveys the howling pack half in wonder, half in contempt, until the fleetest hunter may come within range, when Ursus, perceiving a new and more formidable enemy, drops on all-fours, and is off again. Selecting a level amphitheatre surrounded by high hummocks, where he imagines himself secure, he makes a final stand, and woe betide the dogs; for he is a wonderful boxer, and every blow is a fatal one. But the Remington breech-loader comes into play ; the slaughter of the canine foe is checked, and poor Ursus is dead. Ina hunt such as this, Mr. Dunbar killed a bear weighing about one thousand pounds, and having a coat of snowy whiteness, with a single shot; the only time that feat was accomplished during the cruise.

Meanwhile the Jeannette had been steadily drifting toward Herald Island, and as it was quite certain that she would be carried by it to the northwest, it became important that a landing should be attempted, in order to erect a cairn and leave records there. For this purpose, a party consisting of Lieutenant Chipp, Mr. Dunbar, and ~ myself, with Alexia as dog-driver, was fitted out, and provisioned fora week. It was thought that the ice closed in on Herald Island; but when we came within a few miles of the land, long lanes of open water were found, completely cutting off further progress. It would have been sheer folly to await the freezing of the water and then make a dash for the foot of the precipitous rocks, without the aid of a boat. The ship was rapidly moving past; no. food could possibly have been found on the island, and in case of a separation from the Jeannette we must inevitably starve. Taking this view of the situation, we reluctantly turned back.

And still the floe continued to drift toward Wrangel Land. Soundings were taken daily, and observations daily and nightly. A “drift lead” was kept constantly in place to indicate the impulse of the ice; and the bottom of the sea was dragged for samples of its natural history. Each officer had his special duty, and the whole ship’s company worked together as a unit. At times, the choice library on board would be ransacked for authorities, when the officers, who had been students and observers in all climes, and could be cheerful under all conditions of life, would engage in friendly scientific discussion in the little cabin. ‘Thus, without the appearance of the expected gales, October passed pleasantly away. The ice had been comparatively quiet; now and then low rumbling sounds being transmitted through the floe from distant disturbances. ‘Toward the end of the month Wrangel Land was in plain sight, and it was quite evident that the muchboasted continent was a small island, high and mountainous. When probably at the most northeasterly point to the land, the ship was found shoaling water at sixteen fathoms, and as the floe crowded by the island, it was cast up in great ridges; cracks ran across it in all directions, and the grinding and crushing of the tortured masses sounded like the roar of distant artillery. The ship became entirely surrounded by the towering, telescoping hills of ice. Huge floe-bergs as large as churches bobbed up and down like whales. The situation was now most perilous ; for even could the vessel sustain the enormous pressure thus brought to bear upon her, there was imminent danger of the hummocks and “bits ” weighing from twenty to fifty tons toppling over, as they were on all sides, and crushing or burying her. In view of the impending disaster, preparations were made for abandoning the ship—a hopeless prospect; when suddenly the floe split along the port side parallel with the keel, leaving a long lane of. open water, with the starboard side still imbedded in the ice as in a mould.