India and its native princes

Preface

NDIA, at tbe present day, is a subject so closely inter¬ esting to this country, that the title of this work is, in ' itself, almost suicient to introduce it, and ensure its welcome.

M. Eoussclet, the accomplished French author, has done good service to our own countrymen and women. Although nearly every family sends out a relation or friend to spend some of the best years of life in that vast region, still it cannot ho said that any consider¬ able knowledge of those lands is »t all widely diffused. Few European travellers have sufficient leisure for prolonged investigation ; the op|)ortunities of official residents are usually greatly curtailed by the pressure of business, and a great deal of Indian travel is for the most part performed as quickly as possible at the cidl of duty.

The French author has presented to the reader the connected result of a six years’ study of the architectural monuments, religious beliefs and symbols dating kck to the earliest history, works of art, systems of civilisation, and progress, in an easy style calculated to Sx the attention of tbe lightest as well as of the more sedoui reader. The circumstance of the traveller havbg but very slight national connection with the country explored, is of itself an advantage, as hs brings a fresh mind and independent ideas to bear upon his subject^ free from any pre-eon* ceived bias or prejudice. He describes hb impressions exactly is hs experienced them, and one cannot wonder that hb prevailing sentiment was one of enthusiastic adsuiation of what he saw.

The title of the work Indicates the chief object oi the author. He was comparatively indiinent to the Indb of nffiways, hotels, and telele^ He was beat on vyUng the coisti and countries ruled by i|ra|y|||p|yp^^ smalh of iQ nmks and all eieedi, and to see for' hiamirfpi ^he |iodes of life and eouditioos of dviiisation

PREFACE.

viii

among tlie stately chieftains of native India. With this view he visited the kingdoms of the principal Mahratta and Mahometan sovereign.^— Seiiidia, Holkar, the Guicowar, the late Queen of Bhopal, mid of the Nizam, and has graphically recorded his experiences, while some of his most vivid descriptions are devoted to the romantic history and achievt'- nients of the ancestors of the Rajahs of Central India, lie maktis his reader acquainted with the heroic traditions as well ns the daily lives of the reprosenlatives of those ancient Rajpoot houses at the present, day,

Those who are already familiar with the suhjnits of this work will find pleasure in recalling to memory the scenes and olijt‘cts so well described, while the reader who has no personal acfiuaintanee with’ a country as yet scarcely touched by railways or even metalled roads, may, by the aid of a multitude of excellent illustratious, accompany the lively French traveller in imagination on his Indian journey. The engravingn .speak for themselves, and will probably give a better idea of what there is to see in the Native States of India than has ever iH’en given before, The descriptions of court life and scenes at Baroda will have special interest at the present time : thcHc will probably, in their reality, never be seen again.

This work deals with many suhjects, many people of totally different creeds and habits, as well as with the condition of the country {tasi and present ; but there is not a word in it that could offend, and it is recom* mended with confidence to the Indian as well as the English reader.

Contents

cumu I

mum.

fAOi

CHAPTER II ?HI IKUABtTANTH 09 IKWIUV

The Syatt'in of CiU!tt3i,-Himloo Mythology, -The I}rihttiini.-The JiSm.-A Niuteh.— A IWligioui Dmiiifl,— Feaata.— Tlie Peait of Serjwnta— Coc<»a*nat Bay.— The Panwei.— A Fanofl Marriage,— Mamulraaai.— The Mdh«um. -Kuro{)iatt life in Bombay,— The Financial C'riaii of iS&i-fis . .

CliAI»TER HI.

The End of tlie Mtmaoon.— Tho Iitand of Kaw^ah.-Vultum and (2»rion Sida,-A Qigantie Tim-Tlie Cavei of Elephanta . jg

CllAnKR IV.

lAUiTVB.

Bmo’.-BtdBi of u Bf^lhduaent of . . 4I

CONTENTS.

CHAPTKE V.

TUB KONKAH A»0 THB OH ACTS.

The Lani{-win<}.- The Valley of the OoIoa — CalUan : iw ancient ap!en<}«ur.-~Tii« Tem|>l« of Amlicrnath.— Sanatoria. — Mathemn.— The JunKli-wotlaha.— -Jugglent and Armhato. — Khandttllah.— The Bailway over the Ghaut*.— The Caven of Karii— Encounter with a Tiger

CHAPTER VI.

TUB WBITBRS ItKCCAK.

Poonah.— The Pukre of the Pekhwah.— Tiie Bo«<!hwaf Quarter.— The Hi!! of Porvati- - Loni. — Ahmeiiiiuggur. — AurangalMd.— 'Puwlutahncl.— Cavn of Btlor* am! Ajuitla

CHA1>TER Vn.

TUB KORTHBRS KOHKAK.

BaatetR, the ancient Portugueao City.— The Railway and the Coatea.— Surat.— The Cnttonfielde.— Broach,— The Cornelian Minteof IRotonpore . . , , . 8j

CilAl’TER VIII.

uahoha.

Th» Town and the Siihurha.— Tntia Sahib.-Harrihakti,— The tlrrat Sowari of the 8ur of the South. --The Royal Standard- Iwawr.— The King** Kieidiant, ~Th« Palace. -A C<i|. lection of Shnea.— Hk ilighneiM llie Ouicowar of lianxio.— Our Fir*t Intereiew,— Hiatory of the Gaicowar Family.-»The M«til«ingh,-Life at a Hindoo Court. - Bho.. SohtH Uie Senapeti.— A wonderful Odleeiion of Ltinmoniiii.— King for on Hour f -A Great Review.— The Jesten,— Dancing-Girl* ......

CHAmiR IX

ItAHiiUA"' (ftiudinu'itj.

The Hlghur.— fight between Siepbanto, Bhinonnieiw, Huffaltaw,**— .The WnMiem- TiM Ha«&i.lta.ki»M»tl.-The DieoUiging A«t!»logem,-A Miaeawniute, - The Royal Twin. — Anltloim Huntlng-IowpoKla for Hunting Purii«aii«.-“Pig.*iicltiBg.«-.Tba Guh». war'a BirGulay,— Tiger Hunting.— The Pleina of Ooojerat.— A Riglii on • Tw*.— The Bewo! Uaiugerio .

CIlAmiR X.

The €!«»»««"• piBW.7A Bulbul Fighi.-A College of Holy Ifcn— A Hovel Mwlaof f*. pteslabhig the Royal Trwuuiiy.— A Ptoi.— Death of the AMwwIfi.— Omiul ‘*“rfTfiin«ll ^ lh- Blep!mt.-Tlie Peutof the IW».-VWmo and Um Na.lSrc«fl.-!SSSr

. Il«

CONTENTS,

XI

CHAPTBE XI.

0<K>JE!HAT.

The Talicy of the Mhyc.— Type of a Froviuciia Town, Uonji^rnt.^-Mochanical aotls. -- Ahmcdabaci ; its Ilampartw, PalaceH, MoB<pu»8, ami T4>iiiljB. — The Iliijpoot Knighte.— Priac© Moot! Sing of Jfomlpore.— Fake© and Mo»<|uo of The Tomb of Shah

CHAFTEE XIL

Tim COIINTHV OF THK immh^

Iho Caravan.-**— riM* Encampment at Iiaj|MJor,— -The BimngbiOr Hi Ik. — A Lake amongst the Mountains.— The Mookaui.-- -The Thakour of Tint<">ui,— An Oh.l BaoH. —Manner ami CuHtoma of the Bheek.— Thu Man-eating Tiger,— A Feriloua Encounter with the Bheck* —A Chief m Hostage,— A Bail H4yiwot,-*«Kairwara , , . . ,

CHAFTEE XIIL

Tll» OOtiNTEY OF THE

The Aravmli Mountain* and their rkhea—lhirs«i— Jackal*.— We ksse mt Way*— Omleypoor, the Capital of Meywar,— Our Bivouac at the Arena*— We are taken for Spiiai* —The Eiypook,— Lagenda— The Ban of BaSdkh.— The Tritmiphd Arch at Tripolk* —The Town.— Lake Feahola*— The I»kml»

CHAITOE XI¥,

THE OOHET OF THE MaHAEaHA OF CHIHEYFOOE*

The Falaoe.— The Eeceptlon at the Durbar.— FealiviUei at Jugnavaii.— Lake Feihola*- Eunling in the Amvalk

CHAFTEE XY*

F»PIflflli AT OHHETFOOa

mr*— The Make SalL— Fei^Wtiee of the HoE— The I>iirhey*-Th« Ehmdi EkheL— Fight helween a Fanther and a Wild BcHir*— The Feidivia of Oouil— A Bear Hunt itarvjjR.

I9J

COxVTENTS.

CIIAFTEK XXXIL

THE FKOVLVCE OF JIlAKSsI,

Jhansi. — The Ranee and Tantia Topi. — The Bear- Keepem— The Betwa,— Barwa*-«*The

Aerial Oump. — Birsing Lake and Dyke. — A Kight- Watch . . . * 34^

CHAPTEE XXXni,

OOECHA.

Oorcha, the fonmner capital of IhimlelcuiuL— The BoutKlcka KuigH.— The Palace of Flowera,

— The Citadel and the Palace.— The Teirtple of Ciuitter Bhoje,— The Tainh f»f Biming Deo.— PreparatiooH for a Fete.— Katchuair.— The Dog and the Policeman . . 349

CHAPTER XXXIV.

OTATE OF cnnTTEnroHK.

dagheer of Alipoum — Nowgong. — A Qoml Samaritan tjhuit4!r|wm%— Cur ¥m%

SahtUr. — Bajnuggur. -"The Royal Camp.— -The Holi Pkin— Meeting the Maharajah in the Fair Field.— The Indian SiknuH.— Feativala and Ccrcinonieii.--Thc Ihtrlair.-** 3^igttrli . . , J57

CHAPTER XXXV.

STATE OF FUNKAII.

The Marwa CIMt — The King^?! Emwimea on theFr^mtier.— Ifitendcw w.ith tin* Miihitmjah.

— The Diamond Minea— The King^a Kitchen Claiden.— linnting Kpinoilea— A

Ik^aring of lk|dmnta— llwl of Samlmr.— ExcumoiiH to the Fotir»‘WHe»i of Adji* gurh and Ealleenjur . %f/$

of Bewail 3yg

CHAMER XXXViL BooELaiiiia

Bc^tenndy lit Extent, Limits and ^Lefend of the

CHAPTER XXXVIIL oofutoaoiiih

MiedKimp«m*-"Tht Mhoweh mi iti Frcftiilm— *The Wolm*— tihe I^liii mi tliii Hianilof «lxetfs40ii.**‘T^ Hoinll end l3m Tlgof.— Viiill of Xing»

—Hie in Ihe IC*imoom--Tli« Vialley of llio Btiatem

or liiH-AfNW*— The Djl4ip,l —The ** TofUm”— The 1 inifi Kntchtry , , |iS

COyTEXTS.

XV

CHAPTER XXXIX.

TilK VAI.LEV OK THE TON*}:*.

Amarpat^n. — Principality of MylHirc.— Wc rt‘ct‘iv« tlic Eai’« of iu DurUar,— Recep¬

tion at the Palace. — The Valley of the Tyn^^, — Ouuiohvana.— The Keep of the Elephant on the March. — The Bungalow of Joukhay.—The HacoRs aiul Female Poisoners,— The Bobber and the Iguana 400

CHAPTER XL.

Oeographicai and Historical Sketch,— The iiotimL. — Frmi Joukhay to Bnrtulla.-*A\%-ahh of the FomU of <3onndw*ana.— The Tahmkdar of Kouiuan,— Bisum Hunting.— PuruMh.

—Sir HkhartI Temple,— The Lake af Fntnrin.— -Saitgor,— The Serpmt -Charmer-.’— Mmm* Eod,— Balitgurin— The BritijarrecH 407

CHArrEK XLl

THE VAU^EV or

Bhilsa,— Itniiii of Ohariapore.— How* tlim* may he Top nn«l Tdp.—Asmkn and Ihe Fair I>evL-»Tlio Hill of Oudghtry*— Orotio and liijtcripiioii of Sanakmiika.— The Vanilta Avayin— Vialiiui and Maliadem — The Hwelliiig^ldaec of a Tigen — A Tetrihle Htighlmir . . * . * • ‘ • * - -

Tim BndilhkI Tdpes* their Origin and Tmneforinalioii,— Power and decline of Biiddhiin* in India*— The Monastery of Bnnehl— The llreat Olmityii.— The Tdpt of Ka«ya|iii*—

Tlia Pamita pillage oiir Camp.— A Village of Ifostagea.— Jitstke in the Jnitgk 4So

CHAPTEE XLIIL

ritOll aAHClII TO l*fl0PAk

ol Moitet of lEWbi|mm— L^nd dt Shakiiikin«— Bhc^

CHAPTEE XLIV*

iflOfAL

Tim l^p» Mf«i»»ba df BhipdL— T%i Cllyi Bwmaiip Imlmii and aHadal—

TM U Urn thdm Elimf*— Midiumi lllsiib«ili d# Bomrkm*—

doipMNk . Bdmiii »«>•«•«* » ' mt

XVI

CONTENTS.

CHAPTER XLV,

THE COUUT or BHorAT.

Tha M0n8oon.— -Lifa at Bhopal— Evenings with the Begitm,— Cofee anti the --

The Cathacks. — The Egg-Dance.— The Man with the Irt^n Sknil-- Interview w“iih ShahJehan. — Death of Oumm Douli,^ — A Visit t^f OnnlMlence. •—The Tofau . .

The Bho|mi Till— The Dykes of Bhoje.'*-'Thc Ruins ttf liliojri’H'tre. -»The t»f fh*'

lietw^au— The (ireat Klnllul— Tlir Fete of the i§th t>f August at *hv Priioo’H,» 4e honk— -The Killuilar utoi the MuH-.uhoaiis.- Lm% liiltTview with the IVginns. — Depfirture 4*0-^

CHAPTER XLVII.

MAf.Wa,

A Jimniey in a CMiViii^-^pjiiwage of the Partin It I An Infiospiiahle Rajah - Stmin^mh.

— Bifiiim.' -The iirrat Trank -4hi*aiah, 'Kipri*''The tiin|«ya, Th*^ iMi-

CTIAPTKE XLVIli liWAUm

Thi ifmtp al the Fmt nf the Fnrt.^^^^llnmr.-The Fnnll Hagh. --Diirl^r of

rii^e nf the King*# Iiatighl4tr. • A Cllanee Ihirkwanla -llir IMk4R»ori Agn* 4%

CHAmiR XLIX.

CHAIT^KH L

iiitiil

DilW U 1101m-*- Ili F0iliion.-*^In4m|>acht4.--Sliiih J^han*# Tetwm*— Tht Imimiili

Ittpdy Utm^e nf

Wmm ^ Obiimiliii €limlt.**Tht Outturn Ki^M^I4*-ik Phm 0!

COSTKXrs.

xvii

{*!lAfTKR LI.

Tlf»' mi4 th# I’ilar# nl Ni'*^4k-^Thi* V:mM of tim Pourntm Kila,

^ dlifghsiii M»*w'|Hf*,v™/|'h«1Vip4i *»f lm|»rtim**it llyrna hxxnM

ill fill* of Sisftur Jung.

Cmh-ii in4 < ItiooiMii# A Niglit in t Tomk- * An Exirmiwri* Nimtcli niAPTEH Ul %^n*rv%

r*iiii|oii^ ll»»« IWif|!Pt^pt4 of ln4iA. Eofiitml, flmm of ilip Pii»ijAnk--Tlt«n*ii5iir,--- rinWIl^ Himwl of llwr il«i.*«-lltiiril!iisr, iht

%kpw of il»t» llimAUirifcA. ’ This* -Till? Hiittln l*yi«rii.«**A lliift»m«r Ca^itnl-*

Ttit rif il^r |{i»iiAt«^M . . Jn-fio* f’wil, - » 53A rilAlTKK LIV.

tlli Ilf AlilJtsl,

tii#«ip in>«l A0I14I1. ■ #sf i8f| iti4 Miiti i«liik-*-Tb« BIfidijr

l^itnljipr ■ Hw Asi«* ilm If«»iiii4iiitit Cluiigwi. --TIi#

CilAmK IX

l%m l^itwirr lli4k»« FMii d OiMl

Tl4tiN^i--TlNi ^ Hii CNImjn nf Fuliai «if

AlWr.^Hkf MMnilmiii

CilJimE L¥L

IWfiJIiii

J§f flii!nlii.^1%iCM ]iiM|iit

df iIm BMm WM df

XVIU

CONTEm,

CHAPTEB LVir.

hkhaii.

Tlif Bridge of the Sooe. ~B(fhar,tlie Tlir

Mineral Waters of Siti-Khoiind.-Tb Kurruckjiore Htid

dliist Monustery.-The liknd of 06vijiiftth,-Bhilgul|)ore.~The Idol of Mandar, - The l^nd of the Shephetnl-The Bajiimhal nnd the Milcp. • A Hnntil

Village.— Uayii.— The Coves of Behar . 5^6

CHAPXEH IVIII

ij0OAL

A Kight on the Ikilroiwl-Ihjni^il-Riijmahal-Thi Rniiw ofUaur,-* SIii'rdfdalMd'

The Bengalese, -Thu Nawah Niuini.-The Pliini of the Ih!lta.-lhu4tt**it . Ttf Midn»jah,-Baiidoijiih.-8ii8h Soufi’s i’ilce,“CWeifn8gore.» tlic Fr«io’h i *

CHAim LIX.

t’AMiim.

The Tota.-"11ii BweirK-The Inhabitanta,— The Bakm -Young Indi*. «Th« Bndiiiiw SonalJ.-'Hie C1iuruk-Pi»ji-K8ii,-Th« !<trajiil»-The (*jreloiiwi,-.Kariifiii»» io lk«m‘4HggBmint.-Th«Ua8gei and the BrahmijJotitM. The Hiinderhandi Uw roond Harhoar.-Relroijpeciive Olince , .

VocAittuxrof iKDiAsTtKxa

LIST OF ILLUSTRATIONS.

inw.

Th« T()wn-H«l], in Um fwt, Bmnbny . . 6

OiwltiKi *t th« Cotton Mtfket, Bombiky . . 8

A Hindoo T«fu|ple in tlx Btnek Town, B<Mnlwy to Tbs Villngo of Wnikwhwtr , 13

Hindkx TitBplt, Wnlktthwnr , , . 14

Young Hindoo Wonum . 33

PwriM Chiidron . ,39

fuMw li«dy »nd Ixr Dnughtor . . . p

Bomby MuiwalintuH . 34

Bottdir<bnftt . 39

Ibnyut . .41

EatniMx id Okvw, ... 43

Interior of ai«i4C!»vi,Sii|dnttt*. . . 4$

TixKIllofXtnbri ..... jo

ICifU .

MmdpiNnteiiiidltoiiobidl^ . . t/j

.... 73

Hindoo Tomptoo . 75

Tbufi in Um Mnm of Annufriiid . . 78

Skddton (d tb NiiMt of Kydmfaod . . So

or Wnter^Mirtor .... 83

A Bntotoii of Bnwl . . , , , 8|

Benmnw of Um Outoowir'i Bod7>f«Md . 9$ ftoriUm fat tb FntoM of tb OtdoMw, tl Boindn ....... $7

Vln iMf ' hi * 99

BtjinooHiMlI^iiSiiodft . . . . i07

*ili Hi # « I lOpf

WaMm Qlifiii if Itfito i| ]|iW% , « , f I?

*

Tomb (d Alima Hoyed, »t Bormlo . . . S3l

" Houm) of th« Fokin,” It itofiNii . • I3j

Tb lUni.ki.Kiutih, or Tomb of tb Ifuwn'i,

itAhmodibd . 119

lb Cbtel, It Tintaui, in tht Itbol Country 14a

OurCirivtn . >48

llx Mihm'ini md tb Btitiih Fiditiori Agrat It the Hunt ...... 175

Tb Mab b4i, it Abr, near UudeyfKxir . 178

A Maua(dimt)i in the Mab ftati, « Ahar,

OMT (judeypour ..... tSt

FtotbrMdWUdSoir . 188

1bSoi^£bari,fotbFortaf (Mtoru . wi Tb Fitooe of Raw Xbiunboa,* b tb Fort cdfMton 103

Ttonptoof RiwitbMdtar. . . , ity

inifiiipii Ip mi iiliiwi if wtypcii » r * ijl

1b Pnriltoa of (b to Mmdir, to lb

MiMflfA«Ur . 151

1b Ckildott Xtorik to lb YtDty of Awfair , 155

HtobodMNiitor . . . . . .357

Iblrftboltnww . Ity

XX

LIST OF ILLUSTRATIONS,

PACE

The Maharao Rajah of Ulwur . . . 269

The Gopal Bhowan in the Palace of Digh , 274

Camp at the Gate of the Secmidra Gardens . 275

Nautch Girl of Ulwur . 276

Specimens of Carving on the Gates of Som-

nath, in the Port of Agra , . *279

Principal Entrance of the Taj Gardens, at

The Palace of Dourjun S41, Bhurtpore . . 294

The Mosque of the Mausoleum . . . 299

The Sxiltan's Pavilion, Futtehpore-Sikri . 300

The Ptlnch Mahal, Puttehpore-Sikri . . 301

Temple at Muchkounda, near Bholepore . 309

Bagwan Sing, Maharaj Rana of Bholepore . 31 1

Jilt Nobles , . . . . . -3*3

Temple of Adinath . 318

Cavern of the Tirthankars . . , .321

Jain Emblems . . 323

“'n th»! Neighbourhood of Satti Ghati . . 329

uur Gwalior Escort . 332

The Golden Mountain of Sounaghur . . 339

dai'n Temples at Sounaghur . ♦ . .341

The Bund ” of Lake Barwa-Sdgur . . 346

The Palace of Flowers, Oorcha , . * 35^

Temple of Ohutter Bhoje, Oorcha , , , 353

Mausoleum of Birsing Beo .... 35$

From Nowgong to Chutterpore . . . 356

The Temple of Kali, Kajraha . . , 360

The Indian Silenus . 364

A Biamond Mine, Punnah .... 370

The Rajah of PunnaF and his Sons . . 372

The Rajah of Nagound . 379

Summer Palace of the Maharajah of Rewah,

Govindgurh . 390

Courtyard of the Palace of Govindgurh . . 392

A Bjangal . . 397

Bancing-GMs of the Court of Rewah . . 398

Cenotaphs in the Valley of the Tons . . 403

Gounds . 40$

The Taloukdar of Koumari . . . .411

The Indian Bison . 413

Serpent-Charmers ...... 417

Brinjarrees * * - . . . . 419

The Varaha Avatar, at Oudghiry . * , 426

Temple of Mahadeva, Oudghiry « . . 42S

Colonnade of the Great T6pe of Sanehi . » 434

Emblem of Bharma at Sanehi < . . 437

EmUem of Bharma at Juggernaut . . 437

East Gate of the Great T6pe of Sanehi . » 438

Euitts of the West Gate of the Great Tdpe * 439

Buddhist Funeral Vm from the T6pe <4

Her Highness the B^^um Beounder * * 450

Madaime de Bourbon ***** 453 . 45^

PACE

Mussulman Woman of B}K»pal . . 4«;8

Moollahs of Bhopal . 4O2

The Egg-Dance . 465

The Princess Shah Jehan * , . . 468

The Mail-Cart . 4S5

The Mausoleum of Mohammed Ghose, Gwa¬ lior . 4S8

The BAk-Ghari . 49 1

Gate of the Garden of Secundra . . *495

Upper Storey of the Mausoleum of Abkar,

Peasants of the BcAb . 504

The Mausoleum of Akbar, at Secundra . , 505

The Jummah Musjid . 509

The Bewani-kha«, Palace of Delhi , . . 513

Hindoo Bankers of Delhi . . . • $*5

Mausoleum of Hotimayoun, Plain of BeUu . 521

Bayadere of Mewut . 525

The Tower of Koutub, Plain of Delhi . *529

Iron Column, Mostpie of Koutub , . * S3*

Mosque of the Emperor Altamsh . . , 533

Old Sikh . 538

Bridge of Boats on the Indus , . *539

The Salt Mountains of Kawal Pindi . -54*

View in the Western Himahiyiis , , » 543

Memorial at Cawnp<»re , . . * , 547

Pavilion of Lanka, in the Kaimjr Bdgh, Liirk^

. 550

Residence, Lucknow * , , . .55*

The Palace of Claude Martin, Lucknow , 552 Mahonmtan Schind, Allahabad . . . 55S

Indigo Factory, Allahaliad , . . . 5^

Window of MAn Munder, Iknares , , 5^5

Tdpe of Bhamek, Sanmth , . . .572

Sculpture on the Tape of Bhamek , , * S73

Corn-chandler of Patna . 577

Idol of Mandar, near Bbagulimre * , » tjg

BotttAls 581

Tiger Hunting with the Kiephant « , » 5H4

Railway Travelling in India * . * . 588

Mosque on the Hoc^hly, near Gale ilta . , 594

European House, Osdeutta • » * * S97

3bow-caste Bengalese . , « , , 50

Marwari Merchants . . , , , 599

Brahmins of Bergal * . * » . 601

Water-carriers . . 804

Idols in the Temple of Jug^maul * , ^

Biamond Harb<mr, at the Mouth el Uni Hooghly ^

Native of Madias , , * . ^

Pmiioo of a Pagoda at Fendk^ . ,

Scene in Pondlohtriy $$4

Moorish Menehant, Oeylois • ... did

INDIA AND ITS NATIVE PRINCES

CHAPTER I.

BOMBAY,

TkOverlana Itouto.-A<k-n.-Awival at Bombay.~.Tli« Royal Hotel.-The Bombay Archipelago. -The !fort.~The Paraee Baraar.-Celaba—The Black Town—The Jummalt Mu8jid.-The Bo*att«i.~The Hospital fiw Animak-The City of the Dead.-The Tomb of Jacnuemont.- Molttlar Hill,~Walke*UwM.~The Tower of Silence.-BycuUah,~Maaigon.--The Cobra - The Flying Fox.

N th<j 26tli of Jtine 2 864 I enibarlced at Marseilles 011 board the an English steamer bound for the East llie voyage through the Mediterranean was as charming and agreeable as lit usually is at that season of the year. For six days the sky was blue and cloudless, the sea calm, and scarcely ruffled by a gentle breeze, and the nights delightfully fresh. The constant view of the shores of Corsica, Sardinia, or Sicily, and our putting in for six hours at the pictur^que island of Malta, relieved our passage of the monotony so commonly incident to a sea voyage. The passage of the isthmus of Suez took «8 two days, iacludis^ the tihirty-six hours which we were allowed to spend at Cairo. I took the opportunity ot hastily inspecting the wonders of this famous town, and making a shorC excursion to the Pyiamida On the 28th of Juno we embarked, at JSuez, in Idre a magnificent vessel of 2500 tons. We found on board all the luxury and comfort necessary to enable us to endure the fat^iies of tha passage of the lied Sea But for four days we had to suffer grievously from tlm opprassive aud suffocating heat, which is almost perpetual on thm; sea Tire hot season was at its height; and I really do not know what we should have done without Ure ice, of whi<^ we had a supply, and which was liberally (tealt out to ua A few charred rocks, hillocks of white sand, and lofty blue mountobw in Um distance, are the only objects of interest that occur on the vtya^ TIms son, by way of most marked contrast to tire name it bears, is intensely blue, and ditob^ by a slight swell, while inunense shoals of flying-fish glitter on the cset^ of the'waves. Passing Bab-d-Mandeb, we mrtered the of Aden to take in ooal Our stay there was too short to allow me to lay anything of this interesting town; and the Me that 1 did ses,<on disenhark%

WDIA, fur a few minutes, induced me to resolve to make a longer stay on my return. The appearance of the peninsula on which it is situated is very imposing from the harbour. Yolcanic rocks of sombre hue form 'a high pyramid, crowned witli fantastic peaks, and shaped in the- most extraordinary manner. At the mouth of the Gulf of Aden, which lies between Africa and Arabia, and the eutranre to which is commanded by the group called the Socotra Islands, we fell in willi the south-west monsoon, blowing with the utmost violence. The sea was raging. Fi)r six days we were kept prisoners in the great saloons of the packet, 'ilie waves swept over the deck, and conspired with toiTcnts of rain to deny iis access to it. Happily we consoled ourselves by the reflection that the wind was in our fav<mr, and was urging us the more rapidly towai’ds the end of our voyage. The soidety on board was agreeable, and our days passed very pleasantly. The pianc^, variou.s games, and an attempt at a ball, made us forget the tempest. On the morning id the 8th of July, the coast of India was signalled; and, in spite of the bad weather, all the passengers rushed on deck to see the land so greatly hmge,d for. To urn great disappointment, the sky grew darker and darker ; the captain made, m again keep the offing; and the vessel increased its distance from tin; Bimrc. Then the storm burst forth. For several hours we were fearfully tossed alHmt. The paititions of the cabins groaned in an ominous manner, and the screw, frecpamtly lifted quite out of the water, caused the whole frame of the vessel to vibrate. The proximity of the reefs, which were known to be hard by, rendered our jHisition unpleasant, but the captain displayed the gi’catest coolness. In al^mt two hours the wind abated, and the weather cleared a little. One of the Bomlmy pilotdsiats, which are always on the look-out in these parts, had |x^rcelved tm, and hail emtm out to sea. It overtook us, and guided us to the entrance of the harkmr. 1*hc spectacle which this little vessel presented, in the midst of a sea still turbulent, and beside the imposing bulk of our ship, was truly aatoiiisiiing. It Ismmled to the summit of the waves, or half disappeared between tlieir foaming ridges* On all sides the waves broke with fury upon the rocks, which were on a level with the waters, and marked the dangers which our experienced guide enabled m to avoid, A few more turns of the screw, and the sea liccame mlmer. We inmtHl a lovely bay, bordered by cocoa-nut trees, amid which ap{mred the of

magnificent houses, and, doubling a long, level promontory, covered with warclioiims, we entered the harbour of Bombay,

This harbour, one of the finest in the world, presented itself to me, for the first time, under an exceedingly melancholy aspect. The sky was dull ; the min poured in torrents ; and the ships and the shore, concealcKi by the mist, dlapkyml a scene so little attractive that I postpone a description of it to a moment when mom propitious weather may enable me to appreciate all its lieatitiea Wlmtover enthusiasm I might have indulged in, on reaching a destination m greatly lonipl after, I think it would have been a difficult matter forme then to admire anything. I left the steamer, and took my place in a iKJUt rowed by half-a-domn natives, alinost completely naked, who landed Ine, in a few ininuto, on a handsome stone jetty, I could not perceive cither carriage or shelter in the neighbourhood, mi I oonltl only distinguish confusedly the first houses of Ihmlmy in the tlmUmm A mik came mi oflfered to carry my box, and to show me to m hotel ; mi I foUowdi him without a word, splashing sadly through pools of mud. We pmad a forliflid gate, wliich was in a broken-down condition, and entered streeti minw, daril^ and

THE ROYAL HOTEL, BOMBAY.

horribly filthy; in one of which was the Royal Hotel, which had been recommended to me on boai-d the packet as the best

Tliis liotol was kept by I’arsoes, or fire-worshippers, and it appeared to me at the very firat sight but a wretched inn. The dark corridors crossed each other in every direction ; and the bedrooms, separated from each other by partitions of whitewashed cloth, had no otlier fui'niture than a bed surmounted by a mos¬ quito curtain, a table, and a chair. However, it was at this time the best of the kind in Hombay. I found at the table d*hdte the greater part of my fellowti-avellers.

I have often lieanl it said that the first impression of a country is always the iKist ; bub certainly, if the proverb could have been true in this case, I should have had nothing better to do than to return forthwith to

Europe, for I have rarely, in the whole course of my life, exi>erienced such a feeling of 8adne.S8 and disappointment as on that day.

After dinner, I was acor»sted by a jHirsonage full of iniixjrtance, and carefully attireil, whom I took at first for some rich gentleman of the country. He made mo nuMst energetic salaams, and placed in my hands a bundle of paiiers. The first informed me that I had to deal with one of the honestost men in the world, who, after having faithfully served numerous mnsturs, ntid having always left tliem on acoount of ill¬ ness, came to-day to solicit the honour of being my sorvout One of my travel¬ ling companions oxplaiiual to me tlmt riie^ oertificatos of honesty are fabricated in the

bazaars for a moderate sum ; but as one could not dispense

here wiUi a servant, even while living in the hotel, he recommended me to take this man, who seemed suitable and of good appearance, two qualities which were very essentiaL 1 therefms engaged Ms services for the sum of fifteen rupees a month. Kotwithstandi^g the exorbitont charges at the hotels, attendance is procured entirely from without, and is never supplied by the hotel-keeper. If you even wish to dine at the teWe d’b^, you mast have with you your own servant The custom is ©Maied so fw that peoplsalways take with them their own

INDIA.

servants, when they go to dine at the table of a friend; and, in case they forget this ceremony, they run a risk of getting nothing to eat, seeing that each servant attends only on his own master.

Next morning I was awoke by hearing some one talking close to me, when I saw my new servant, Lutchman, opening my luggage, and “arranging my things as if he had attended on me for a long time. He was carrying on an aniniatct! conversation with a stout man, who seemed to be of a cheerful disposition, and was dressed entirely in white, his head covered with a turban of giaxed cjalico ; and in him I recognised my Parsee host. I asked him in a melancholy manner what news there was of the weather ; and he replied with gi'eat coolness that the rain had only commenced some days ago, and would undoubtedly last for tliree months to come. Seeing that I appeared puzzled, he very resi)ectfully gave mo the following explanation. Nature under the tropics has not distributed the seasons in the manner which is so familiar to us, but luv? divided the year into a dry season and a rainy season. For eight months the sky is clear am! dmulless, and the sun shines without hindrance ; but, on the other hand, it rains, at inter¬ vals, from the isth of June to the isth of October. During this time, the min sometimes falls in such torrents that the country is covere<l witli water ; the rfjads disappear or ‘become impassable ; and it is then impossible to travel even slujrt distances. I was not unaware, when I set out on my travels, that I should find myself in India during the height of this season ; but I had imagiiiml these accounts to be greatly exaggerated. Those, therefore, who come k) theses countries as tourists, ought always to arrange so as to arrive in October, if they do not wish to have the prospect of a lengthened stay in a town like Bombay. This appeared to me, for my part, so little pleasant that scarcely hatl 1 arrivetl when I made every effort to commence forthwith my explorations ; anti it was only after being convinced by several persons of the impossibility of procuring in this season the necessary means of transport, that I entirely abandonetl my project

In spite of the bad weather, I went out immediately to make my calls, taking for this purpose a palanquin. This vehicle* so often described* conaists* at Ibmbay, of a long wooden box suspended between two long poka llie interior m supplied with cushions, on winch the traveller reclines at full length. On omdi side is an opening, which may be closed with a slide* and at idm end a small table* capable of being drawn out, and which bears a hmi% The Ijeamrs, te the number of Tour or six, place the poles on their shoulders, and msily mise the whole machine* wMch they carry at a gentle trot; they move quickly, and maintain this pace for several hours The greater part of the letters of wliloli 1 was the bearer being addressed to merchants, I found them all at their eouiite ing-houses ; and I discovered timt what I had been M to consider the town of Bombay was in reality the Fort, which, however, contained only wareliotisai and commercial estaUisliments, and the lami^fts of which were in couise of demoli¬ tion ; the European quarters and the Indian town being at a considemble distenae up the island, One of these gentlemen advised me to leave my hotel and imtel mysdf in the quarter of Ma2;agon* where I should find more convenfeiil apart* ments, and should at the same time be able more easUy to p about in society. I followed hm advice, and some days after my arrive I had found a eomff^rlahk and picturesque cottage, half hidden by tie^, where I proceeded to uIdUiiNS to miny ^on by spending it in. to study of to lai^ages of India.