India and its native princes : travels in Central India and in the presidencies of Bombay and Bengal

Front matter

clay. dks

RAP APS

SSS SASS ek ee ri

Preface

Ses at the present day, is a subject so closely interesting to this country, that ie the title of this work is, in itself, almost sufficient to introduce it, and ensure its welcome.

M. Rousselet, the accomplished French author, has done good service to our own countrymen and women. Although nearly every family sends out a relation or friend to spend some of the best years of life in that vast region, still it cannot be said that any considerable knowledge of those lands is at all widely diffused. Few European travellers have sufficient leisure for prolonged investigation ; the opportunities of official residents are usually greatly curtailed by the pressure of business, and a great deal of Indian travel is for the most part performed as quickly as possible at the call of duty.

The French author has presented to the reader the connected result of a six years’ study of the architectural monuments, religious beliefs and symbols dating back to earliest history, works of art, systems of civilization, and progress, in an easy style calculated to fix the attention of the lightest as well as of the more serious reader. The circumstance of the traveller haying but very slight national connection with the country explored, is of itself an advantage, as he brings a fresh mind and independent ideas to bear upon his subject, free from any preconceived bias or prejudice. He describes his impressions exactly as he experienced them, and one cannot wonder that his prevailing sentiment was one of enthusiastic admiration of what he saw.

The title of the work indicates the chief object of the author. He was comparatively indifferent to the India of railways, hotels, and telegraphs. He was bent on visiting the courts and countries ruled by native princes, great and small, of all ranks and all creeds, and to see for himself what are the modes of life and conditions of civilization among the stately chieftains of native India. With this view he visited the kingdoms of the principal Mahrattah and Mahomedan sovereigns—Scindia, Holkar, the Guicowar, the late Queen of Bhopal and of the Nizam, and has graphically recorded his experiences, while some of his most vivid descriptions are devoted to the romantic history and achievements of vi PREFACE.

the ancestors of the Rajahs of Central India. He makes his reader acquainted with the heroic traditions as well as the daily lives of the representatives of those ancient Rajpoot houses at the present day.

Those who are already familiar with the subjects of this work will find pleasure in recalling to memory the scenes and objects so well described, while the reader who has no personal acquaintance with a country as yet scarcely touched by railways or even metalled roads, may, by the aid of a multitude of excellent illustrations, accompany the lively French traveller in imagination on his Indian journey. The engravings speak for themselves, and will probably give a better idea of what there is to see in the Native States of India than has ever been given before. The descriptions of court life and scenes at Baroda will have special interest at the present time: these will probably, in their reality, never be seen again.

This work deals with many subjects, many people of totally different creeds and. habits, as well as with the condition of the country past and present; but there is not a word in it that could offend, and it is recommended with confidence to the Indian as well as the English reader.

THE EDITOR.

Chapter I. Bombay

PAGE

The Overland Route.—Aden.—Arrival at Bombay.—The Royal Hotel—The Bombay Archipelago.—The —The Parsee Bazaar.—Colaba.—The Black Town.—The Jummeah Musjid.—lhe Bazaars.—The —The Tomb of Jacquemont.—Malabar Hill.—Walkesh-

The Cobra.—The Flying Fox

Fort.

Hospital for Animals.—The City of the Dea war.—The Tower of Silence. —Bycullah.—Mazagon..

Chapter II. The Inhabitants Of Bombay

The System of Castes.—Hindoo Mythology.—The Brahmins.—The Jains.—A Nautch.—A Religious Drama. —Feasts.—The Feast of Serpents.—Cocoa-nut Day.—The Parsees.—A Parsee Marriage.—Mussulmans.—The Moharum.—European Life in Bombay.—The Financial Crisis of 1664-5 . é o oD)

Chapter III. Excursions In The Bombay Harbour

The End of the Monsoon.—The Island of Karanjah.—Vultures and Carrion Birds.—A Gigantic Tree.— : . . - 38

The Caves of Hlephanta .

Chapter IV. Salsette

The Portuguese.—Toolsi.—The Buddhists’ Caves of Kenharii—The Great Temple.—A supposed yas.—Age of the Caves.—The Durbar Cave.—Viharas.—The Peepul.— ves of Monpezir.—Spotted Deer.—Ruins of an Establishment of Jesuits.—

Tannah, Manichean Inscription.—C Natives of Salsette.—The Ca Magatani.—Jageysar.—Mahim

CHAPTER VY.

THE KONKAN AND THE GHAUTS.

its ancient splendour.—The Temple of Ambernath.—

The Land-wind.—The Valley of the Oolas.—Callian : Sanatoria.—Matheran,—The Jungli-wallahs,—Jugglers and Acrobats.—Khandallah.—The Railway over 9 9 8 » 58)

the Ghauts.—The Caves of Karli Encounter with a Tiger b viii CONTENTS.

Chapter VI. The Western Deccan

PAGE

Poonah.—The Palace of the Peishwah.—The Boudhwar Quarter—The Hill of ParvatiimLoni.—Ahmednuggur.—Aurungabad.—Dowlutabad.—Caves of Hllora and Ajunta . é 3 : é F 00)

Chapter VII. The Northern Konkan

Bassein, the ancient Portuguese City.—The Railway and the Castes—Surat.—The Cotton-fields.—Broach.

—The Cornelian Mines of Ratanpore. C ‘3 b . : 6 P 5 5 c 5 = ol CHAPTER VIII.

BARODA.

The Town and the Suburbs.—Tatia Sahib.—Harribakti—The Great Sowari of the Star of the South.— The Royal Standard-bearer.—The King’s Blephant.—Tho Palace.—A Collection of Shoes.— His Highness the Guicowar of Baroda.—Our First Interview.—History of the Guicowar Family.—The Motibaugh.—Life at a Hindoo Court.—Bhao Sahib, the Senapati—aA wonderful Collection of Diamonds. —King for an Hour!—A Great Review.—The Jesters.—Dancing-Girls 0 : : 5 : ele CHAPTER IX.

BARODA—(continued).

The Haghur.—Fight between Elephants, Rhinoceroses, Buffaloes, &e.—The Wrestlers.—The Nucki-kakoustiitThe Disobliging Astrologers.—A Misadventure—The Royal Train.—Antelope Hunting.— Leopards for Hunting Purposes.— cking.”—The Guicowar’s Birthday.—Tiger Hunting.—The Plains of Goojerat——A Night on a Tree.—The Royal Menagerie i b . E q . 100

CHAPTER X.

THE KING’S PLEASURES.—THE ENVIRONS OF BARODA.

The Guicowars Whims.—A Bulbul Fight.—A College of Holy Men.—A novel Mode of replenishing Royal Treasury.—A Plot.—Death of the Assassin.—Capital Punishment by the Elephant.—The Feas of the Da: —Vishnoo and the Nautch Girl.—Decapitation of a Buffalo—The Tomb of Allum Sayed. —The Fakir-Kana.—The Ruins of Dubbhoee.—The Feasts of the Diwali—The Reign of Balii—The Queen at the Motibaugh.—Our last Interview with the Guicowar : 0 5 é 3 6 ¢ dlalit

CHAPTER XI.

GOOJERAT.

The Valley of the Mbye.—Type of a Provincial Town, Goojerat.—Mechanical Gods.—Ahmedabad: its Ramparts, Palaces, Mosques, and Tombs.—The Rajpoot Knights.—Prince Mooti Sing of Joudpore.—

Palace and Mosque of Sirkhej—The Tomb of Shah Allum.—Nilghau Hunting.—A Riot concerning a

Peacock.—Organization of our Caravan 120

CHAPTER XII.

THE COUNTRY OF THE BHEELS.

The Caravan.—The Encampment at Rajpoor.—The Dounghér Hills.—A Lake amongst the Mountains.—The Mookém.—The Thakour of Tintouii—An Old Baoli—Manners and Customs of the Bheels,—The Man-eating Tiger.—A perilous Encounter with the Bheels.—A Chief as Hostage.—A Bad Rajpoot.—Kairwara 130

CONTENTS. ix

CHAPTER XIII.

THE COUNTRY OF THE BHEELS—(continued).

PAGE The Aravali Mountains and their Riches.—Pursad.—Jackals.—We lose our Way.—Oudeypoor, the Capital of Meywar.—Our Biyouac at the Arena.—We are taken for Spies—The Rajpoots.—Legends.—The Rao of Baidlah.—The Triumphal Arch at Tripolia.—The Town.—Lake Peshola.—The Islands. . 148 CHAPTER XIV.

THE COURT OF THE MAHARANA OF OUDEYPOOR.

The Palace.—The Reception at the Durbar.—Festivities at Jugnavas.—Lake Peshola,—Hunting in the Aravalis ¢ 5 8 3 6 : 5 . : ‘ : : : . . : kbd)

CHAPTER XY.

FESTIVITIES AT OUDEYPOOR.

Ahar.—The Maha Satii—Festivities of the Holi—The Durbar.—The Khoosh Mahal.—Fight between a Panther and a Wild Boar.—The Festival of Gouri—A Bear Hunt . 3 . 6 : 5 IGE)

CHAPTER XVI.

MEYWAR.

Hulkaras and Purwanas.—A Word to Travellers.—Dificulty with Brahmins.—Land of Crocodiles—Legend of Ontala.—Morwun.—Chittore.—Temples and Palaces.—Heroes, Heroines, Legends, and Chivalry. Tower of Victory —Ameergurh.—Bunera . 3 5 3 ° 5 5 , . 188

CHAPTER XVII.

THE PROVINCE OF AJMBRE.

Bunai.—Nusserabad Syud.—The Ar;

Morning in the Aravalis——Ajmere.—The Bazaars.—The Lake.—The Shrine of Khoja din-ka-Jhopra.—The Fortress of Teragurh & c c : é 6 : - 203

CHAPTER XVIII.

POSHKUR AND KISHENGURH.

The Sacred Lake of Poshkur.—Prodigality of Rajpoot Princes.—Temple of Brahma.—Pilgrims and Brahmins. —The Naga Pahar.—The Desert,—Kishengurh.—A Misunderstanding —The Mirage.—Salt Hills . 218

CHAPTER XIX.

JEYPORE.

Ou Bungalow.—Jey Sing II. Sowae.—Foundation of Jeypore.—The Palace.—The Observatory.—First Interview with the Maharajah—The Kachwas.—The Mainas.—Hot Winds.—Tumblers.—A Holy Man suspended by the Feet.—The Fair of Ganesa . 3 : S - : ; é

CHAPTER XX.

AMBI{R AND SAMBHER—(page 234).

x CONTENTS.

CHAPTER XXI.

JEYPORE TO ULWUR.

The Bangunga.—Buswa.—Rajgurh.—Palace of Mirrors.—Ulwur

CHAPTER XXII.

ULWUR—(page 258).

CHAPTER XXIII.

FROM ULWUR TO AGRA

A Royal Camp.—Digh.—The Palace of the Rajah of Bhurtpore.—The Festivities at Digh—Secundra .

CHAPTER XXIV.

AGRA.

The Fortress of Akbar.—The Mosque of Pearls——The Taj.—The Mausoleum of Etmaddowlah.—The Gardens of the Jumna

CHAPTER XXYV.

THE IMPERIAL DURBAR AT AGRA.

Importance of the Durbar.—Arrival of the Viceroy of India.—Féte of Scindia at the Taj—Grand Review. —Ceremony of the Investiture of the Order of the Star of India.—The Durbar.—A Ball

CHAPTER XXVI.

THE KINGDOM OF BHURTPORE.

Travelling Waggon.—Bhurtpore.—The Jats.—The Two Sieges.—Captain Fantéme.—Ruins of the Fortress

CHAPTER XXVII.

THE RUINS OF FUTTEHPORE.

Futtehpore-Sikri—The Ruins.—The Tomb of Sclim.—The Emperor Akbar and the Saint.—The Palace of the Padishah.—The Game of Pucheesee.—The Dewani-Khas.—The Old Guide of Futtehpore

CHAPTER XXVIII.

THE STATE OF DHOLEPORE.

Khairagurh.—Dholepore—The Sacred Lake of Muchkounda.—Durbar of the Rana

CHAPTER XXIX.

GWALIOR.

History of Gwalior.The Fortress.—Palace of the Pal King—Jain Temples.—A Buddhist Temple.—The Ravine of Ourwhai, or the Happy Valley.—The Jains a : : z 0 ° a

PAGE bo ree

CONTENTS. xi

CHAPTER XXX.

THE COURT OF SCINDIA.

PAGE

Origin of the Mahratta Power.—The Cossacks of India.—The Slipper-bearer of the Peishwah.—Daolut Rao Scindia and the French Officers.—General Perron.—The Possessions of Scindia.—The Mahratta Camp of Gwalior, its Bazaars and Monuments.—The King displays his Horsemanship.—An Interview with the Maharajah.—The Durbar and the Nautch Girls . : . 3 3 5 5 : . . 3809

CHAPTER XXXI.

STATE OF DUTTIAH.

Bundeleund.—Hurdeo' Sing and Boundi.—The Slave Boundelas.—Duttiah.—Palace of Birsing Deo—The Death of a Camel.—lInterview with the Rao. Maharajah of Duttiah.—The Rope-Dancers.—The Holy - Mountain of Sounaghur.—The Fakir of the Holy Flower . : 5 5 3 2 5 6 . 816

CHAPTER XXXII.

THE PROVINCE OF JHANSI.

JhansiiThe Ranee and Tantia Topii—The Bear-Keepers.—The Betwa.—Barwa.—The Aérial Camp.—

Birsing Lake and Dyke.—A Night-Watch 6 5 3 0 : Q 3 5 , . 825 CHAPTER XXXIIT- OORCHA.

Oorcha, the former Capital of Bundeleund.—The Boundélas Kings.—The Palace of Flowers.—The Citadel and the Palace—The Temple of Chutter Bhoje-—The Tomb of Birsing Deo.—Preparations for a Fete. —Katchmair.The Dog and the Policeman. : : ¢ : 2 , ° . : . 832

CHAPTER XXXIV.

STATE OF CHUTTERPORE.

Jagheer of Alipoura—Nowgong.—A Good Samaritan Lady.—Chutterpore.—Our First Salute.—Rajnuggur. —The Royal Camp.—The Holi Fair.—Meeting the Maharajah in the Fair Field.—The Indian Silenus. —Festivals and Ceremonies.—The Durbar.—Rajgurh 6 339

CHAPTER XXXY.

STATE OF PUNNAH.

The Marwa Ghat.—The King’s Emissaries on the Frontier.—Interview with the Maharajah.—The Diamond Mines.—-The King’s Kitchen Garden.—Hunting Episodes.—A Hunting-cage.—Rearing of Hlephants. —Herd of Sambur.—Excursions to the Fortresses of Adjugurh and Kalleenjur . A ° 5 . 848

CHAPTER XXXVI.

FROM PUNNAH TO REWAH.

Nagound.—Departure of the Scindian Escort.—A Hunt in the English Style-—The Rajah of Dourjunpore.

—Rewah é o b f : 7 : e é ° , 0 : 6 zi . 359 CHAPTER XXXVIT.

BOGELCUND.

Bogeleund, its Extent, Limits; and History.—Legend of the Ba s.--Bandougurh.—Character of the

Population The Dewan.—Rewah.—Its Palace.—A Royal Speech.—Cataract of the Tons . 6 . 863 ec xii CONTENTS.

CHAPTER XXXVIII.

GOVINDGURH.

Mukunpore.—The Mhowah and its Properties —The Wolves.—Govindgurh, the Palace and the Town.— First Hunting-Excursion,—The Houdi and the Tiger.—Visit of the King.—The Panther.—Battues in the Kairmoors.—The Valley of the Séne.—The Bundars, or Men-Apes.—The Djangal.—The * Tofin.” —The King’s Kutchery .

CHAPTER XXXIX.

THE VALLEY OF THE TONS.

Amarpatan.—Principality of Myhere.—We receive the Rais of Myhere in Durbar.—Reception at the Palace. —tThe Valley of the Tons.—Goundwana.—The Keep of the Elephants on the March.—The Bungalow of Joukhay.—The Dacoits and Female Poisoners.—The Robber and the Iguana . : 2

CHAPTER XL.

GOUNDWANA.—PROVINCE OF DURMOH AND SAUGOR.

Geographical and Historical Sketch.—The Gounds.—From Joukhay to Burtulla—Wealth of the Forests of Goundwana.—The Taloukdar of Koumari.—Bison Hunting.—Dumoh.—Sir Richard Temple.—The Lake of Puturria—Saugor.—The Serpent Charmers.—Moses's Rod.—Rahtgurh.—The Brinjarrees

CHAPTER XLI.

THE VALLEY OF BHILSA.

Bhilsa.—Ruins of Gharispore.—How there may be Tépe and Tépe.—Asoka and the Fair Devi—The Hill of Oudghiry.—Grotto and Inscription of Sanakanika.—The Varaha Avatar.—Vishnu and Mahaveda.— The Dwelling-place of a Tiger.—A terrible Neighbour

CHAPTER XLII.

SANCHI.

The Buddhist Tépes, their Origin and Transformation.—Power and Decline of Buddhism in India.—The Monastery of Sanchii—The Great Chaitya.—The Tope of Kasyapa.—The Dacoits pillage our Camp.— A Village of Hostages.—Justice in the Jungle .

CHAPTER XLIII.

FROM SANCHI TO BHOPAL.

Sagacity of an Elephant.—Piplia-Bijoli—The Tépes of Bhojepore——Andher.—The Tépes of Sonari.— Satdhara.—The Horses of Sahapore.—Legend of Shakasiam.—Bhopal.—The Moti Bungalow

CHAPTER XLIV.

BHOPAL.

The Begum Secunder.—The Nawabs of Bhopal.—The City, Bazaars, Lakes, and Citadel.—Jehangheerabad.

—A Visit to the Doolan Sircar.—Madame Elizabeth de Bourbon.—The Bourbons of Bhopal.—The Féte of Mohurrum.—The Fair of Futtehgurh.—The Jogees.—Sehore : : : 0 6

CHAPTER XLV.

THE COURT OF BHOPAL.

The Monsoon.—Life at Bhopal—Evenings with the Begum.—Cofiee and the Hookah.—The Cathacks.—The Egg-Dance.—The Man with the Iron Skull.—Interview with Shah Jehan.—Death of Oumra Doula.— A Visit of Condolence.—The Téfan . 6 c 8 a :

PAGE

» oo ©

CONTENTS. xiii

CHAPTER XLVI.

THE COURT OF THE BEGUM.

PAGE

The Bhopal Tal.—The Dykes of Bhoje.—The Ruins of Bhojepore.—The Passage of the Betwa.—The Great Khillut.—The Féte of the 15th of August at the Princess de Bourbon’s.—The Killadar and the Mussulmans.—Last Interview with the Begums.—Departure : : : : : r 5 : = 2444

CHAPTER XLVII.

MALWA.

A Journey in a Caléche.—Passage of the Parbutti—An Inhospitable Rajah.—-Nursingurh.—Bioura,—The Great Trunk Road.—Goonah.—Sipri—The Chopaya.—The Dak-Gharee.—From Charybdis to Seylla. —Gwalior 0 0 6 : 3 : é 3 : é : ° 452

CHAPTER XLVIII.

GWALIOR.

The Camp at the Foot of the Fort.—Morar.—The Fooll Bagh.—Durbar of Scindia.—Marriage of the King’s

Daughter.—A Glance Backwards.—The Dak-ghari.—Agra S 6 6 e 3 5 $ . 461 CHAPTER XLIX.

FROM AGRA TO DELHI.

The Taj—On the Banks of the Jumna.—Secundra.—The Tomb of Akbar.—Muttra.—The Legend of

Krishna.—The Upper Do&b.—Aligurh . 6 0 ° : : ri 7 2 : . 466 CHAPTER L.

DELHI.

Delhi compared to Rome.—Its Position —Indrapéchta.—Shah Jehan’s Town.—The Jummah Musjid.——The

Imperial Palace.—The Throne of Peacocks.—The Imperial Baths —The Street of Chandni Chowk.— The Cashmere Gate.—The Kala-Musj A Piece of Adwice to Tourists—Experiences of a Photographer in India.—A Bath a la Mogole.—The Ulcers of Delhi . : % C : 3 5 . 478 CHAPTER LI.

THE PLAIN OF DELHI.

The Town and the Palace of Feroze.—Asoka’s Needle.—The Citadel of the Pourana-Kila—The Affghan Mosque.—The Tomb of Houmayoun.—An Impertinent Hywna hunted in my Bedroom.—Nizzam Oudin. —Arab-Ka-Serai.—The Mausoleum of Suftur Jung.—Cireles and Gnomons.—A Night in a Tomb,—An Extempore Nautch z . . 5 é : 6 5 E : : 6 5 . 489

CHAPTER LIT.

KOUTUB.

Alladeen’s Gate.—The Koutub.—The Great Mosque.—The Galleries of Pirtwi Raéj—Dava’s Lat.—The Legend of the Serpent.—The Tomb of Altamsh.—Mchrowli.—The Citadel of Togluckabad.—A Good Cousin . 5 : : : : 6 6 0 : 6 6 6 . a - 496

XIV CONTENTS.

CHAPTER LITI.

THE PUNJAUB AND THE HIMALAYAS.

Paniput, the Battle-field of India.—Kurnoul.—The Plains of the Punjanb.—Thunnesir.—Umballa.—The Shawl Manufactories of Loudiana.—The River Beas.—Umritsur, the Holy City of the Sikhs.—Lahore. —Peshawur.—The North-Western Frontier.—First View of the Himalayas.—The Jampdn.—The Simla Paharis.—A Summer Capital.—The Ascent of the Himalayas.—Jacko’s Peak.—Meerut.—Agra .

CHAPTER LIV.

THE LAND OF AOODH.

Oude and Aotidh.—Cawnpore.—The Revolt of 1857 and Nana Sahib.—The Bloody Chamber.—The Cistern and the Monument.—The Ganges.—The Pilgrims.—Iucknow.—The City.—The Kaiser Bagh.—The Housseinabad Imambara . 6 6 : ¢ : j a : .

CHAPTER LY.

FROM CAWNPORE TO BENARES.

The Great TriveniimThe

The Lower Doib.—Allahabad.—The Cantonments.—The Plain of Prayaga.

Pilgrims of the Ganges Water.—The Column of Asoka,—The Palace of Akbar.—The Subterrancan Temple.—A Mussulman School.—An Indigo Factory.—Harvest and Manufacture of Indigo. rzapore.—The Fortress of Chunar.—The Throne of God.—Mogul-Serai.—Benares .

CHAPTER LVI.

BENARES.

Historical Sketch.—An Excursion on the Ganges.—The Wharves.—The Observatory of Jey Sing.—The Nepaulese Pagoda.—The Ghat of the Funeral Piles.—The Mosque of Aurungzeb.—Interior of the City. —The Golden Temple.—The Well of Truth—The Dourga Khound.—The Monkeys’ Paradise.— —Brahmins and Beggars.—Preaching in the Open Air—The English Town.—Sarnath.—Hiouen Thsang.—The Antelope Wood.—The Festival of Ganesa.—Sacred Bayadéres.—The Rajah of Benares. —The Palace of Ramnuggur

CHAPTER LVII.

BEHAR.

The Bridge of the Séne.—Behar, the Ancient Magadha.—Patna.—Ancient Palibothra.—The Mineral Waters of Sita-Khound.—The Kurruckpore Hills.—Sultangunge.—The Buddhist Monastery.—The Island of Dévinath.—Bhagulpore.—The Idol of Mandar.—The Legend of the Shepherd.—The Rajmahal Hills. —Sontals and the Malers.—A Sontal Village. ya.—The Caves of Behar 6 : 6

CHAPTER LYVIII.

BENGAL.

A Night on the Railroad.—Bengal.—Rajmahal.—The Ruins of Gaur. The Nawab Nazim.—The Plains of the Delta.—Burdwan.—The Ma‘ Pike.—Chandernagore.—The French Colony.

Moorshedabad.—The Bengalese.— jah.—Pandouah.—Shah Soufi’s The Triveni of Hooghly.—Chinsurah.—Caleutta .

: CHAPTER LIX.

CALCUTTA.

The Town.—The Bazaars.—The Inhabitants—The Baboos.—Young India.—The Brahmo Somaj-—The CHturuk-Pooja.—Kali.—The Strand.—The Cyclones.—Excursion to Dacca.—Juggernaut.—The Ganges and the Bramapoutra.—The Sunderbunds.—Diamond Harbour.—Retrospective Glance

Vocasunary or Inpian Terms : 2 0 z é 5 4 : ‘ EB 5 6 . °

PAGE PAGE Cottage in Mazagon c 5 6 2 . il Hindoo Temples. a . . 5 Ue Parsee Hotel-keeper 3 Hindoos of Western Dekan co a mht Palanquin 4 Soldiers of the Nizam of Hyderabad . . - 79 The Town- Hall, in fine Fort, Bombay 6 Village of Mahabuleshwar : 80 The Grant-Buildings and Cotton-Green, FBeaalbigy 7 Bhistis, or Water-carrier . , 81 Cotton Market: Merchants at Bombay 8 North Side of the Island of Baleetts c 82 Coolies at the Cotton Market, Bombay é 9 A Buniah of Surat . 84 A Hindoo Temple in the Black Town, Bombay. 11 Baroda . 3 88 Malabar Hill . . 2 6 138 Carriage of Shinde Tanti, 6 91 The Village of twalleselirs 14 Horsemen of the Guicowar’s Body- eal 5 92 Hindoo 1 Demet Walkeshwar 15 avilion in the Palace of the Guicowar, at Hindoo Beggar 16 Baroda 6 5 95 Street in Mazagon . 18 The Motibaugh, our iaeaidencaa in Baroda 6 97 Hindoo Women of Bombay in Ceremonial fore 22 Bayadeére, or Dancing-girl, Baroda 99 Young Hindoo Woman 24 Rhinoceros Fight at Baroda 108 Parsee Children , 29 Fakir Carrier of Relics at Baroda 112 Parsee Lady and her iDemeliion 30 Tomb of Allum Sayed, at Baroda 115 A Parsee Merchant at Bombay 31 “‘ House of the Fakirs,” at Baroda 116 Bombay Mussulmans 3 34 alcony of the Great Mosque of Sirkhéj 120 Serpent-charmer S 35 The Travellers’ Bungalow at Ahmedabad . 121 Entrance of Caves, faite) 5 38 The Rani-ka-Rauzah, or Tomb of the Queens, at Bunder-boat 39 Ahmedabad 3 - 23, Banyan . : 42 Kiosk of the Tomb of Gunj Buksh, ef girkhej 125 Cocoa-nut Trees 43 The Thakour’s Castle, at Tintoui, in the Bheel Interior of Great Cave, Blephants 44 Country 5 ABE) Marriage of Siva and Parvati 45 The Chatri at Tinton in fie Bheel Ginmtiay 135 The Hill of Kenhari 3 50 The Thakour’s Fort, at Sameyra, in the Bheel The Great Chaitya at Kenhari . 51 Country A é 9 . 138 Facade of a Grotto at Kenhari . 54 Valley of Khairwara 141 Inhabitant of the Matheran Range, iiestert n Our Caravan . 6 142 Ghauts é 4 : 0 61 Sambhoo Sing, the iiiteresne of 2 Masato 6 148 Jugglers : 62 Palace in the Island of Jugnavas 1538 The Duke’s Nose, at Kandallah 64 Garden in the Island of Jugnavas 154 Entrance of the Great Cave of Karli. 65 The Island of Jugmunder, Oudeypoor 15 Bas-relief on the left, under the Gateway wi Shah Jehan’s Palace, in the Island of Sreanden 156 Karli . 66 A Kiosk in the Island of Jugmunder, Oudeypoor 157 Sculpture under the Gaemoy ef ite Chattya wi The Maharana and the British Political Agent at Karli . . o ON the Hunt 0 o Gy Principal Nave and Doge of Kari 3 68 The Maha Sati, at Ahar, near foudernoon 6 170 In the Neighbourhood of Poonah 70 Tomb of Sangram Sing, at Ahar, near Oudeypoor 171 Travelling-waggons . . 1p A Mausoleum in the Maha Sati, at Ahar, near Departure from Poonah 73 Oudeypoor . 174 xvi LIST OF ILLUSTRATIONS.

PAGE PAGE | Panther and Wild Boar . 6 : - 178 The Rajah of Nagound . 360 | The Lake of Burdi Talao. 5 180 Summer Palace of the Maharajah of Tari, A Rajpoot Tomb on the Dam of the Baral Talao 181 Govindghur : * | The Sengar Chaori, in the Fort of Chittore 5 light Entrance to the Palace of Caxitniistinn | The Palace of Rana Khoumbhou, in the Fort of Courtyard of the Palace of Govindghur . Chittore . 192 A Jangal 5 The Zenana in the irate of ea hematin: - 198 Dancing-girls of the toon of Racal. . Temple of Vrij, Chittore . a . 194 Cenotaphs in the Valley of the Tons. The Tower of Victory, in the Fort wi Chittore - 195 Gounds . é . . . . Bunera . ‘ 9 - 201 The Taloukdar of Revenant & .

The Bazaar of actor hyn Ajinsee ‘4 : . 208 The Indian Bison Mosque of the Arai-din-ka-Jhopra, at Ajmere . 210 Serpent-charmers The Sacred Lake of Poshkur . 5 ° . 214 Brinjarrees : Temples on Lake Poshkur ‘ 6 5 - 215 The Varaha Avatar, ‘at niles S Temple of Rama, at Poshkur . f . oily The Stairs of Sealtanen, Oudghiry

The Naga Pahar, near Poshkur a 3 . 219 Temple of Mahadeva, Oudghiry . Pavilion in the Palace of Jeypore . 3 « 227 Colonnade of the Great Tépe of Sanchi The Palace of Ambir : 2 . 286 Emblem of Dharma at Sanchi . The Dewani Khas, in the Palace of innit - 237 Emblem of Dharma at Juggernaut 6 The Pavilion of the Jess Munder, in the Palace East Gate of the Great Tope of Sanchi of Ambir. 6 - 238 Ruins of the South Gate of the Great Tépe Temples in the Valley of Asay 0 . 242 Ruins of the West Gate of the West Tope The Golden Kiosk, in the Valley of Ambir - 248 3uddhist Funeral Urn from the Tépe of Sonari . Hindoo Jeweller. : : . 245 Her Highness the Begum Secunder .

Fresco in the Sheesh Mahal, cf ReGeadh 2 « 250 Madame de Bourbon a Mausoleum of Rajah Buktawur at Ulwur . « 258 Mussulman Woman of Bhopal .

The Lake at Ulwur . : . . . 254 Jogees . : 6 . .

Pyramidal Marble Hill at Tibet ° . . 255 Moollahs of Bhopal . 6 . 5 6 The Maharao Jajah of Ulwur . G a o PAS The Egg Dance 3 The Gopal Bhowan in the Palace of Digh . - 262 The Princess Shah aha Camp at the Gate of the Secundra Gardens - 268 Ruins of the Temple of Bhojepore : Nautch Girl of Ulwur. . 264 Temple of Vacoudeva, Nursingurh 6 « 455 Agra, from the opposite Bank a the damm . 266 The Mail-cart : . 459 Specimens of Carving on the Gates of Somnath, The Mausoleum of Monanined ‘Ghose Galion . 462 in the Fort of Agra. 267 The Dak-Ghari 6 : é . 465 Principal Entrance of the Taj Gonllung, at pe. . 270 Gate of the Garden of Secunara : . 468 The Palace of Dourjun Sal, Bhurtpore - 282 Upper Story of the Mausoleum of Akbar, The Mosque of the Mausoleum : 6 . 286 Secundra 0 6 S ° - 469 The Sultan’s Pavilion, Futtehpore-Sikri . a Pash Peasants of the Doab : 5 0 476 The Panch Mahal, Futtehpore-Sikri . dl 289 The Mausoleum of Akbar, at Secundra . ATT The Dewani-Khas and the Court of the puchees | The Jummah Musjid é 3 . see, Futtehpore-Sikri . : 5 és - 290 | The Dewani-khas, Palace of Delhi . 5 Temple at Muchkounda, near Dholepore . + 295 Hindoo Bankers of Delhi . . . Bagwan Sing, Maharaj Rana of Dholepore - 297 Mausoleum of Houmayoun, Plain of Delhi . 491 Jat Nobles. 6 4 5 r 3 3 PASE) Bayadére of Mewat . 5 6 - 495 Temple of Adinath . 6 é c . 804 The Tower of Koutub, Plain of Delhi : - 498 Cavern of the Tirthankars a é : . 806 Cloisters, Mosque of Koutub, near Delhi . . 499 Jain Emblems 6 . 3808 ron Column, Mosque of Koutub 5 4 - 500 Tn the Neighbourhood of Satti Ghati . . 812 Mosque of the Emperor Altamsh . : - 501 Our Gwalior Escort 3 a « 815 Old Sikh A : é a « 506 General View of Duttiah . - 2 2 . 316 Bridge of Boats on the Tas : : 5 « 507 The Golden Mountain of Sounaghur . 2 . 822 The Indus near Attok 5 - 508 Jain Temples at Sounaghur 6 C - 823 The Salt Mountains of Rawal Tpit a ii . 509 Necropolis of the Rajahs of Jhansi . ° . 826 View in the Western Himalayas 5 a a silt) The “ Bund” of Lake Barwa-Sagur . 3 . 829 Memorial at Cawnpore . é 0 . 614 The Palace of Flowers, Oorcha : : + 833 avilion of Lanka, in the Kaiser Bagh, Lucknow 516 Temple of Chutter Bhoje, Oorcha . . + 835 Residence, Lucknow e 6 : : 5 Gul Mausoleum of Birsing Deo : : 3 - B87 The Palace of Claude Martin, Lucknow . 5 eulfs) From Nowgong to Chutterpore ° 9 - 838 Mahometan School, Allahabad . é . 524 The Temple of Kali, Kajraha a o » B42 Planter’s Dwelling, Allahabad . 5 a . 825 The Indian Silenus . 5 . ~ B45 Indigo Factory, Allahabad b . . . 526 A Diamond Mine, Punnah Q 6 o BIL Window of Man Munder, Benares . a Go abil The Rajah of Punnah and his Sons . a . 854 Tope of Dhamek, Sarnath 6 . . . 537

LIST OF ILLUSTRATIONS. xvii

PAGE PAGE Sculpture on the Tépe of Dhamek . . - 588 Water-carriers . . - 565 Corn-chandler of Patna . : : : - 541 Idols in the Temple icf draygerncnt 6 ° > 567 Idol of Mandar, near Bhagulpore . : - 548 Car of Juggernaut . c 568 Sontals . : : . 544 Diamond Harbour, at the Mouth of the Bander 570 Tiger Taian with Be E nephans 6 . . 547 Native of Madras. 3 c 6 . 571 Railway Travelling in India. : . - 550 Portico of a Pagoda at pendieherey é : . 572 European House, Calcutta 4 5 6 . 558 Scene in Pondicherry é 578 Low-caste Bengalese é . 5 . - 559 Cocoa-nut Trees, on the Road Sean Borie fle. Marwari Merchants 6 5 5 . - 560 Galle to Ghllowiby Brahmins of Bengal 0 6 . ° - 561 Cingalese 5 ° . 6. eb) The Goddess Kali . b A 6 . - 562 Moorish Merchant, Gaim . . e - 576 Port of Calcutta . . ° . ° - 564

FULL-PAGE ENGRAVINGS.

His Highness Syaji Rao Scindia, Maharajah of The Valley of Ambir 0 5 « To face page 244 Gwalior. ‘6 Frontispiece Temples of the King, at Ulwur : 6 . 256 Inhabitants of the Tsien of Salecrion To face page 6 Payilion of Dewani Khas, at Digh . 6 - 262 Religious Meeting of Jains, Bombay 6 5 1 The Taj, Agra é b 0 o 5 - 266 Dancing Girls at Bombay é 5 . 26 Grand Avenue of the Taj, Agra é cs - 268 The Nag-Punchmi, or the Festival of the Ser- Mausoleum of E Hemaddowlann Agra . , 270 pents, Bombay . . . : . - 28 Upper Kiosk of the Mausoleum of Etmaddowlah, Persians in Bombay : 82 Agra . ‘ ‘< 3 6 - 272 The Mohurrum ; the Taboots on n the Shore oh the The Imperial Durbar, at ert : . 6 - 276 Back Bay, at Bombay . é 0 . . 284 Zemindars and Jat Peasants . a . - 280 The Lions’ Cave at Hlephanta . é c 5 40 General View of Bhurtpore . 282, Temple of Ambernath, near Callian . o - 58 Mausoleum of Sheik Selim Shisti, at Futtehpore. Thugs, in the Prison of Aurungabad . . eo Sikri . 5 6 - 286 Royal Necropolis, Goleonda . : 78 Durbar of the Mal toegiats a Dette fs - 298 Monument in the Royal J Necropolis at Golconda 80 The King Pal Palace, Gwalior . é 6 - 802 The Royal Standard-bearer, in the Sowari of the Side View of the Pal Palace, at Gwalior . . 3804 Guicowar, at Baroda . A 92 The Vihara, Gwalior : . P - 806 The King’s Elephant, in the Grea Stange Ri Colossi of Ourwhai, Geales 5 c . 808 Baroda . 6 - 94 Mausoleum of the Scindias, at Lashkur . 312 The Court of the Cattooraes, ing of iBone a BXe Palace of the Birsing-Deo and the Lake, Dutti: th 318 Elephant Fight at Baroda 8 2 o - 102 Facade of the Baines of Birsing-Deo . 2 820 The Nucki-ka-koosti, at Baroda 4 : . 104 The Holy Hill of Sounaghur, seen’ from the Antelope-hunting with the Cheetah . ° - 106 Village 0 : o : 5 GPR Hill Fortress of Powaghur - 108 Night Scene at Boar Shy . ; : - 880 Criminal executed by an Elephant, of Baroda . 114 The Royal Palace of Oorcha . < , - 884 Ruins of the Harem of the Emperor Ahmed, The Citadel of Oorcha . é a % 6 6G Sirkhéj a 6 r a . 0 + 126 The Temple of Mahadeva, Kajraha . 4 . 840 Our Encampment at Rajpoor . 0 . - 180 Facade of the Temple of Kali, Kajraha . 342 The Travellers stopped by the Bheels . - 140 Meeting of the Travellers with the Maharajah ws Rajpoots 5 ‘ : . . . - 150 Chutterpore, at Kajraha . 6 344 Oudeypoor, the Capital of Meywar, seen from The Travellers received on the Frontier a the the Peshola Lake 3 . . . 156 State of Punnah .