Impressions of Europe, 1873-1874; music, art and history

Front matter

1873-1874

PHILO A. OTIS lu.vic Hatl 111 .Fisham r.iF Si.rtft. l^riOAia. u'herfi tho "Messiah' was first performed

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Contents

CHAPTER PAQB

I. WHILE EN ROUTE TO NEW YORK CITY, STOP TO VISIT OLD FRIENDS. . . . THE S. S. CUBA AND MY FELLOW PASSENGERS. . . . QUEENSTOWN AND CORK. . . . FATHER STOREY SHOWS ME "tHE BELLS OF SHANDON." . • . TWO GREAT CATHEDRALS. . . . SUNDAY AFTERNOON SERVICE IN ST. PAUL's 15

II. LEAVE LONDON FOR ROTTERDAM. . . . "tHE HOUSE IN THE woods" at THE HAGUE, WHERE THE PEACE CONFERENCE HAS MET IN RECENT YEARS. . . . CATHEDRAL OF STE. MICHEL IN BRUSSELS AND "tHE SECRET OF CHARLOTTE BRONTE." . . . THREE NOVELISTS HAVE WRITTEN OF WATERLOO. . . . PARIS 27

Chapter I

While en route to New York City, stop to visit old friends. . . . The S. S. Cuba and my fellow passengers. . . . Queenstown and Cork. . . . Father Storey shows me "The Bells of Shandon." . . . Two great Cathedrals . . . Sunday afternoon service in St. Paul's.

1873 — May 26, Monday: leaving home this morning, I spent the night in Toledo and the following day in Norwalk, towns associated with my boyhood, arriving Wednesday in Hudson, Ohio, to visit Professor Nathan P. Seymour and family, and to see the halls and campus of my Alma Mater, dear old Western Reserve, from which I graduated in 1868. I was glad to meet President Carroll Cutler again and the members of the Faculty, among them Thomas Day Seymour ^ (1870) (or "Tom" as he was affectionately known among his friends), who had just returned from a year of study in Europe, and succeeded his father, Nathan P. Seymour, as Professor of Greek. We talked of college days and the Hudson Orchestra, organized in 1867, of which I was pianist and conductor, with three college men among the players ; George G. Baker (first flute), now a practicing physician in San Diego, California; Josiah Strong ^ (second flute), and Thomas Day Seymour (double bass).

* Thomas Day Seymour was one of my oldest. and dearest friends. Our friendship dates from September, 1865, when I came to Hudson to enter the Sophomore class, and lasted unbroken until his death (December 31, 1907) in New Haven. He was called (1880) to the chair of Greek in Yale College.

His son, Charles Seymour, Litt. D., Professor of History in Yale University, was a member of "The Territorial Section" at the Peace Conference, and with Colonel Edward Mandell House, edited the work "What Really Happened at Paris" (Charles Scribner's Sons, New York, 1921). Dr. Seymour wrote the chapter, "The End of an Empire: Remnants of Austria-Hungary."

• The Rev. Josiah Strong, D.D., author of "Our Country," a work in which he called attention to the desertion of the agricultural districts for the attractions of city life, and later. President of the American Institute of Social Science, died April 37, 1916, in New York City.

Professor Seymour gave me many suggestions for my trip to Europe, with letters and addresses which were of great assistance when I reached the Continent. Much of his year abroad had been spent in Leipzig, but he had time to visit England, France and Italy, hearing good music and seeing the treasures in the art galleries. In the course of our talks on the feast of music and art in store for me, he spoke of the English Cathedral choirs, the opera in London, Paris and Berlin, and the orchestras of the Gewandhaus in Leipzig and the Gewerbehaus in Dresden. I asked him to name ten paintings in the galleries of Europe wliich he regarded among the great works of art; these paintings I would surely see and endeavor to remember. Professor Seymour's list, made in 1873, may interest present day students and readers:

1. Paul Potter's "Young Bull"— The Hague.

2. Rubens' "Descent from the Cross" — ^Antwerp.

3. Murillo's "Immaculate Conception" — Paris.

4. Raphael's "Sistine Madonna" — Dresden. 6. Correggio's "La Notte" — Dresden.

6. Holbein's "Madonna" — ^Dresden.

7. Raphael's "Saint Ceceha" — Bologna.

8. Era Angelico's "Angels" — Florence.

9. Raphael's "Transfiguration" — Rome.

10. Michael Angelo's "Last Judgment" — Rome.

June 1st, Sunday: attended morning service at St. Paul's Episcopal Church in Boston, hearing good music and renewing my acquaintance with the organist and director, Dudley Buck,^ whom I had not met since the great fire (October, 1871) drove him away from Chicago. Mr. Buck showed in his work this morning that he is one of the few organists who always do well; playing with a firm, steady hand; using rare taste in accompanying his choir and always scholarly in his improvisations. After service, I found my way to the choir loft and had a short interview with him about musical affairs in Chicago, and the great fire. He spoke sadly of his losses in that calamity;

•In 1869, Mr. Buck was called to St. James Episcopal Church in Chicago. His work was so much appreciated that the vestry replaced the old organ with a three manual Johnson instrument. He purchased the house No. 39 Cass Street, for a home, adding a studio and organ, where he met his pupils, held rehearsals of his choir and gave recitals. In September, 1871, Frank T. Baird (organist of the Third Presbyterian Church), and I, began a course of study in the theory of

Boston IT

church, home, library and organ all swept ,away, and added, "I shall never go to Chicago again." He apologized for some changes in the choir that morning, his tenor, Frederick Packard,'* having gone to Italy to study.

The next morning, June 2, I witnessed the annual parade of the Ancient and Honorable Artillery Company and followed the troops to their military service at the HoUis Street Church. Through the kindness of Harry Gates, a former member of the Apollo Musical Club in Chicago, I was admitted to the choir loft and had a seat by the organist, H. M. Dow. The music, which followed, was sung by twelve of the best men's voices in Boston:

First tenors : D. F. Fitz, S. H. Stickney and Harry Gates. Second tenors: W. H. Fessenden, A. T. Hills and H. A. Cook. First basses: C. C. Wentworth, G. H. Webb and F. B. Wilder. Second basses : H. C. Barnabee/ A. C. Ryder and G. R. Titus.

Their selections were a "Jubilate" by L. H. Southard, Buck's ® "Lead Kindly Light" and an "Ode" (I do not now recall the music or the name of the composer) ; the words were written by W. T. Adams :

"Green today as when the Pilgrim Made his home in forest deep/' etc.

The sermon by the Chaplain, the Rev. John F. W. Ware, was on the theme, "The Character of the Citizen, the City's Safety and Suemusic with Mr. Buck, which continued until he was called east on a concert tour. During his absence came the great October fire, which ended our lessons. He never returned to Chicago; remained in the east, and later was appointed organist of St. Paul's Episcopal Church in Boston, and the Music Hall Association. In 1877 Mr. Buck was called to Holy Trinity Church, Brooklyn; died October 6, 1909.

*The next year (1874) I met Mr. Packard in Milan, where he was preparing for the opera.

'H. C. Barnabee organized (1879) the Boston Ideal Opera Company (the other principals being Marie Stone, Tom Karl and W. H. Fessenden), to bring out Sullivan's operas — "Pinafore," "Mikado," "Pirates," etc. In 1887 the "Boston Ideals" was reorganized by Mr. Barnabee under the name of the "Bostonians."

Thomas O'CarroU, or "Tom Karl" as he was known in professional life, died March 2, 1916, at his home in Rochester, N. Y. I made his acquaintance through relatives living in an adjoining town, Batavia. He was a lovely man; always came to our house whenever the "Bostonians" appeared in Chicago.

Mr. Barnabee writes, September 14, 1915: "I will answer the questions you ask as well as I am able; the names all come back to me so tenderly. I remember perfectly the service in the Hollis Street Church with the male choir: Fitz, Fessenden, Cook and Ryder — the famous Temple Quartet are all gone: First Fitz, then Ryder, then Fessenden — lastly Cook. I remember all the occasions you write about, though I shall be 82 my next birthday."

• Mr. Buck wrote "Lead Kindly Light" for the Temple Quartet, who sang it this morning: D. F. Fitz (first tenor), W. H. Fessenden (second tenor), H. A. Cook (first bass) and A. C. Ryder (second bass), whom I heard the day before in Mr. Buck's choir at St. Paul's.

cess," based on the text, "citizen of no mean city" (Acts XXI; 39). Paul was a man of whom any city might be proud, worthy of being numbered among the citizens of Jerusalem or Rome. He had the advantage of the double education, having studied literature, poetry and the arts at the Greek University in Tarsus : theology, law, and philosophy at the feet of Gamaliel in Jerusalem. "The Apostle," said the preacher, "could furnish weapons for theologians."

June 3 : Tuesday morning, I was in New York at the St. Nicholas Hotel on Broadway and early the next morning went on board the S. S. Cuba, bound for Liverpool. There were only four good ships of the Cunard Company in the Liverpool service in 1873 : Russia, Scotia, Cuba, and Java. The two former were side-wheelers and were largely advertised as "carrying no steerage passengers." Among old travellers the two latter ships were respectively called the "rolling Cuba" and the "jumping Java," from certain peculiarities manifested by these ships in heavy weather, not especially conducive to the comfort of the passengers. The Cuba and the Java were registered at 2690 tons and each could be placed today (1922) inside the giant Aquitania, 47,000 tons, smoke-stacks, masts and all.

Among the passengers were the Hon. Horace Rublee, U. S. Minister to Switzerland, who shared with me cabin No. 126 ; the Rev. Stuart Robinson, D.D., of Louisville, Ky. ; two contractors from Chicago who had made their fortunes in helping rebuild the city after the fire ; three Chicago attorneys and a large party of Cook*s tourists, among them thirty "schoolma'ams." My diary records :

June 6, Friday A. M.: a rough sea, the "rolling Cuba" an appropriate name for this craft; decks lined with sea-sick passengers; stewards serving meals on deck. I am trying to recall Weber's "^ air, "Ocean ! Thou Mighty Monster" ("Oberon") suggesting sad experiences the composer may have had at sea.

June 8, Sunday: divine worship at 10:15 A. M. in the after cabin; Church of England service read by the ship's doctor; singing led by Captain Moodie to familiar tunes, "Duke Street," "Dundee" and "Old Hundred." Brief discourse by an English clergyman, on the subject, "The Knowledge of Good and Evil," a practical talk, but not especially adapted to a Sunday at sea, as the British passengers would have it. The Americans had hoped to hear Stuart Robinson.

June 10, Tuesday: an old gentleman and daughter from some place in

^ Weber's experiences in sea travel, however, were limited to the one occasion when he crossed (1826) the Channel from Calais to Dover, en route for London, to bring out "Oberon."

CorTe 19

Michigan, sit near me in the dining salon. The father deaf as a post uses an ear trumpet. This A. M. at breakfast he remarked, "I never had a quarrel with my wife." Taking his trumpet I screamed into his ear, "Why?" "When domestic squalls arose," he answered, "I laid aside my trumpet and then there was a calm." Beautiful day on deck ; spent A. M. in looking at the sea and talking with Father Storey; told me of his church and work in Rochester ; going to Paris, then to Rome.

June 14, Saturday: arrived at Queenstown last night at 12 o'clock, lighter came out to meet the Cuba; took off passengers (nearly 100 in all) ; custom house officers examined us for "seegars" and "weepons"; hotels all full; finally got a bed at 3 A. M. at the Rob Roy, dirty and untidy; went to the Queen's for breakfast.

Later in A. M. I found myself with other passengers from the Cuba on board a little steamer on the river Lee for Cork, delightful trip, passing country villas, with well kept lawns and pretty villages. Turning to Father Storey, I said, "This suggests Anna L. Waring's hymn 'In Heavenly Love Abiding* — and the verse

"Green pastures are before me.

Which yet I have not seen."

"Yes," said the priest, "that is a good Protestant hymn; but listen now, to some verses by a Catholic." With that he recited * 'The Bells of Shandon":

"With the Bells of Shandon

That sound so grand on

The pleasant waters

Of the river Lee."

Then he told me of the author, Francis Sj^lvester Mahony, known in the literary world of his day as "Father Prout."

Mahony was born (1804) in Cork and began life with the intention of becoming a priest, studying in Amiens and Paris, then entering the Jesuit College in Rome. He took priest's orders (1832) in that city and on his return to England officiated for a time in the chapel of the Bavarian Legation in London. Here he fell in with William Maginn, one of the founders (1830) of "Fraser's Magazine," at whose suggestion Mahony began writing his celebrated "Prout Papers" for the Magazine, consisting of episodes in the life of a parish priest In Ireland. A number of poems from Mahony's pen appeared in "Fraser's," among them, "The Bells of Shandon," "which," said Father Storey, "made Mahony famous." He now abandoned all thoughts of the priesthood, devoting the rest of his life to newspaper work. He went to Rome in 1846 as correspondent of the London "Daily News" (then edited by Charles Dickens), sending home brilliant letters of life in Rome during the early reign of Pius IX. The last fifteen years of his life were spent in Paris, whence he sent to the London "Globe" entertaining letters on the incidents of the day. Mahony was a recluse, living in the entresol of a small hotel in the Latin quarter, and having few friends. He died there May 18, 1866, and like Berlioz, alone and forgotten.

June 15, Sunday: in Cork, at the Victoria. I was surprised to find German and French waiters in the house, but learned that many of them were sons of Continental hotel keepers who came to Ireland to acquire the English language and English ideas in cooking. After breakfast, I met Father Storey : ^ "Come with me and see the 'Bells of Shandon'; they hang in the tower of the Church of St. Anne Shandon." We went up into the tower with the bell ringer and heard the chimes for the morning service. He told us the church was erected over the site of another edifice built in 1722, and that the bells were cast in 1750.

From St. Anne's to St. Mary's (Roman Catholic) on Pope's Quay; here we heard a "Mass" of Gounod's. Father Storey led me up into the choir loft to meet Mr. Sullivan (the organist) and the members of the choir. After service, with the tenor soloist, we went for a walk to the heights above the river from which we had a view of the city. In the afternoon I attended service in the English Cathedral (St. Finbar) of which Dr. Marks was the organist, assisted by an excellent choir. In the evening to Sunday's Well Church, where I heard more good music and a good sermon. When I started home at 9 :00 o'clock, it was still twilight and as I walked through the Mardyke and along the Mall, I hummed the tenor solo, "Benedictus," in Gounod's Mass which I heard at St. Mary's in the morning.

The most picturesque of the lovely excursions about Cork is that to Blarney Castle. I do not know how the trip is made in later years, possibly in an automobile, but in 1873, travellers went in the good old way, on a jaunting car, with a brawny son of Erin for a driver who entertained his passengers with song and story of the ancient Irish heroes. On arriving at the Castle, the door was opened by a woman with five little children clinging to her skirts — bare-legged and bare- • The Rev. Richard J. Storey died December 12, 1914, in Rochester, N. Y.

THOMAS DAY SEYMOUR

Xennan S Sons.ci

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Offices: 19 Fishamble Street.

"THE MUSIC MALL, Fishamble Street, was founded in 1741 by the Bull's Head Huslcal Society, and in the same and following year, HANDEL performed there, under the patronage of the Lord Lieutenant and the Court. It continued the most fashion- Able place of public entertainment until the close of last century. AfUr many vicissitudes, it was in i$68 added to KE^^AN & SONS' works, and it now.resou-.ids again with the -Harmonious Blacksmith,* differently composed."

The Blarney Stone 21

footed. The day was raw and chilly and I felt sorry for the little ones.

"How can you let them run about without shoes? They must suffer from the cold !"

"Well, sor, they will never miss what they never hadn't," was the stolid reply.

The Blarney Stone is inserted in the wall of the Castle ^ a few feet below the battlement and is difficult to reach, judging from an engraving which hangs in the visitor's room, showing a young Irishman held by his heels, head downward, trying to kiss the magic stone.

From Cork my route was to Dubhn, staying a day to visit Lake Killarney, the Gap of Dunloe, Kate Kearney's Cottage and Muckross Abbey. While in Dublin I put up at a typical, comfortable Irish inn, the Gresham, on Sackville Street.

Before lea^^ng home, I had finished reading Lever's story, "Charles O'MaUey." The morning after my arrival in Dublin, I went out to Trinity College, walking about the grounds and looking at the rooms occupied by "O'Malley" and "Frank Webber," two of the novelist's most delightful characters. In the afternoon I attended service in St. Patrick's Cathedral.

Sir John Stevenson, Mus. Doc, noted for the accompaniments he wrote to the melodies of Thomas Moore, is buried here. But I was most interested in the tombs of Dean Swift and Esther Jolinson, or "Stella," "who," as a writer recently said, "whether wife or not, lived so near his heart for forty years."

Handel brought out (April 12, 1742) "The Messiah" in Dubhn in a hall in Fishamble Street, a building still in existence, though considerably changed in appearance. The property is now owned by Mr. Keenan, and is used as a warehouse. His son, E. G. Keenan, came to

•Henry Clay Barnabee writes in his "Wanderings" (1913) of a visit (1878) to Blarney Castle:

"Did you kiss the Blarney Stone? I confess that I did, and furthermore, I assure the reader that kissing that amulet, which is said to confer on those who smack it an irresistible charm of persuasive eloquence, is an operation attended with some danger, for the stone is the lowest rock of a projecting turret, at the very top ef the Castle, a height of 150 feet. Grasping the irons fastened into the famous rock, and with two fellow beings holding my legs, I looked down from the dizzy height and accomplished my object. Firm hands, faithful attendants and a strong desire to possess the charm, were the only things that prevented me from taking a fall as disastrous as that of 'Humpty Dumpty.' "

This delightful singer, Henry Clay Barnabee, one of the first among American bassos, died December 16, 1917, at his home "The Elms," in Jamaica Plain, Massttchusetts.

Chicago (1908) and was with the firm of Hibbard, Spencer & Bartlett.

He was a good musician and played the piano at the Wednesday evening

services at the First Presbyterian Church through the winter of 1909,

when the Rev. John Archibald Morison, D.D., was Minister.

June 22, Sunday; in Belfast; in the evening to the May Street Presbyterian Church ; ^° heard a celebrated preacher, the Rev. Hugh Hanna. The musical part of the service was dreary and tiresome; utterly wanting in human sympathy; no choir, no organ. The clerk standing at his desk, below the pulpit, read the first two lines of the hymn which the congregation then sang, followed by the reading of the next two lines, and so on, to the end.

I spent one day at the Giant's Causeway, going by train to Port Rush, then by jaunting car, a distance of seven miles, to the sea, passing the ruins of Dunluce Castle, a great stronghold in the days of Queen Elizabeth, which stands on a rocky eminence, one hundred feet above the sea. At the pier the tourists were taken in a boat with four oarsmen, who pulled us into the caves, of which there are two, the largest one being 96 feet high at the entrance. We were then rowed along the Causeway that we might see the peculiar formation of the rock and the columns of basalt, fitting together with extraordinary precision.

On my return to Belfast in the evening, I took passage on the S.S. Camel for Glasgow, arriving the next morning, Tuesday (24th). I have three "Impressions" of this old Scottish city :

1. The stained glass windows in the Cathedral, surpassing in design and color anything we have in America ;

2. My great disappointment that in consequence of a dinner engagement with some Glasgow people, to whom I had a letter from friends in Chicago, I was unable to hear Barnett's Opera, "The Mountain Sylph," ^^ on Wednesday evening (25th) ;

3. Hearing Charles Courtley, the English actor, as "Mark Meddle," in "London Assurance," Thursday evening (26th), at the Prince of Wales Theatre: the finest piece of acting I have ever witnessed.

June 27, Friday: in company with some of the passengers on the Cuba, I left Glasgow at 11:00 A.M. in a drizzling rain (though an

"The Rev. William J. McCaughan, D.D., Minister of the Third Presbyterian Church in Chicago accepted a call (1907) to the May Street Presbyterian Church in Belfast. Dr. and Mrs. McCaughan were fatally injured July 26, 1910, by jumping from a third-story window of the Kelvin Hotel in Belfast, when fire had made their escape by stairway impossible. Dr. McCaughan died July 31 and his beloved wife on August 11.

" "The Mountain Sylph," one of the earliest of English light operas, was brought out by John Barnett in 1834. The trio, "The Magic Wove Scarf," was a favorite in the "sixties" with singers in Chicago.

Scotland 23

old lady in our compartment called it "a dry rain"), passing Dumbarton Castle, a gloomy fortress in the River Clyde, to which Mary Queen of Scots was taken (1543), when a year old, in order that she might be near France. At Balloch the passengers were transferred to a little steamer on Loch Lomond which landed us at Inversnaid, where we were met by a coach, to cross the ridge between Lochs Lomond and Katrine, through the Rob Roy country. At Stronachlacher we caught another steamer for a ride on Loch Katrine to the head of the Loch. Here we found a coach for the seven mile ride ( a "wet rain" now and pouring), through a romantic valley to the Trossachs Hotel. At this place we were fortunate in securing a closed carriage for the fourteen mile drive to CaUandar, passing a spot famous in Scottish

poetry,

"This rock shall fly From its firm base As soon as I."

After crossing the "Auld Brigg of Turk" and catching a glimpse through the mist of "Sampson's Putting Stone," we at last arrived at Stirling, wet, cold and hungry, and thoroughly realizing the difference between "a wet" and "a dry rain." The traveller through the Highlands will do well to have a copy of Scott*s poem, "The Lady of the Lake," in hand; this part of Scotland has been immortalized by Sir Walter.

Stirling Castle was the scene of bloody deeds in Scottish history. Douglas was murdered here and the window is still pointed out from which the body was then thrown. There is an opening in the wall called, "Lookout," with the initials "M.R., 1566," from which Mary Queen of Scots could look on the tournaments. We visited Greyfriar's Church in which James VI was crowned (1567), John Knox preaching the sermon.

It is but a short run to Edinburgh and here we spent a few days at the Cockbum Hotel. On Sunday morning I attended St. Giles' Church, of which the Rev. Mr. McCandish, a noted Scotch divine, was the Minister; unfortunately, he was away and another preacher occupied the pulpit. In St. Giles, as in Glasgow, there was no organ — no choir, the whole service cold and unsympathetic and the singing of the hymns by the congregation, cheerless and unresponsive.

I heard something better in the evening at St. George's (Church of

England) ; a full choral service with anthem by a choir of boys and men, accompanied by a large organ. One of the hymns, "The Church's One Foundation," was sung to such stirring music that I could not leave the church without learning the name of the author. In this manner I became acquainted with the tune "Aurelia" ^^ by Samuel S. Wesley.

At Holyrood are other evidences of the bloody times in which Mary lived, whom Voltaire called La Fille de Cette Malheur euse Maison de Stuart. The room of Rizzio and that of Lord Darnley, with the blood-stained floors, are still shown.

The afternoon was devoted to seeing more cheerful objects about Edinburgh, in a carriage along the Queen's Drive, passing Arthur's Seat, Salisbury Craigs, the Castle, Canongate, John Knox's house ■ — places made famous by Sir Walter.

"July 2, Wednesday: left Edinburgh by train for Galashiels; here we secured carriages for Abbots ford. Close by is Ashestiel, where Sir Walter Scott lived (1804-1812) and wrote the beginning of "Waverly." At Abbotsford we were shown through the poet's study, library and hall. Two suits of armor are exhibited with great swords, suggesting the combat in 'Ivanhoe.' Leaving the house of Sir Walter, we drove to Melrose, thence to Dryberg, the burial place of the poet. At St. Boswell's, train for Newcastle."

The next day I came on to Durham to visit the Cathedral, one of the stately ecclesiastical piles of England. The Rev. John B. Dykes, ^^ Mus. Doc, while precentor of the Cathedral in 1849, wrote many of the beautiful hymn tunes now known throughout the Christian world. At 4:00 P. M. I attended service and heard selections from

"This tune, written (1864) by Wesley, when he was organist at Gloucester, came into great favor at a service, February 27, 1872, in St. Paul's, London, on the recovery of the Prince of Wales from a serious illness. Samuel Sebastian Wesley, born in London, August 14, 1810, was organist at Hereford 1832; Exeter 1835; Winchester 1849; and Gloucester 1865, vifhere his death occurred, April 19, 1876.

Wesley's anthems, "Blessed be the God and Father," "The Wilderness," "Ascribe unto the Lord," and his "Service in E," are well known to choirs in America.

"Dr. Dykes at the time of his death (1876) was vicar of St. Oswald's, Durham, and a high churchman with ritualistic tendencies, with which his bishop did not agree. Soon after Dykes' appointment at St. Oswald's, in consequence of the growing needs of his parish, he required two curates. The Bishop was willing to license the curates on these conditions:

1. They should never wear a colored stole;

2. They should never use incense;

3. They should never stand with their backs to the congregation except when ordering the bread.

Dr. Dykes resented this action of the Bishop on the ground that it was illegal; carried the matter to the Queen's Bench in London, where he was defeated, the court holding that the Bishop had sole jurisdiction in such matters. The worry, publicity and anxiety in the case brought about Dr. Dykes' death, January 22, 1876.

Durham — York and Westminster 25

Mendelssohn's "Elijah," the aria for tenor, "If With All Your Hearts," and the chorale, "Cast Thy Burden on the Lord." Another English musician. Dr. Armes, whose Cantata, "St. John," is well known among choir people in America, was organist at Durham for some years.

Durham, founded (999) as a resting place for the bones of St. Cuthbert, was replaced a hundred years later with the present edifice by Bishop William of St. Calais. "The bishops and other clergy" of that period having an unusual lack of appreciation for women, placed a line in the pavement of the Cathedral beyond which they could not pass. In later years when women began to receive more consideration, the Galilee or Lady Chapel was built (1175) for their use. It was well for the clergy of that day that there were no suffragettes in the congregation. The Galilee Chapel contains the remains of the Venerable Bede.

July 4, Friday; our American National holiday, a busy day for me; spent the morning in York at the Minster, the most imposing of all English Cathedrals — wonderful colored windows in the Chapter House; heard the morning service; fine organ. ^* In the afternoon, train to Lincoln to see the Cathedral, and in the evening, Cambridge; Byron's walk.

London was not far away and there I arrived on the afternoon of the 5th in the height of the season when the city is always at its best, going to Morley's Hotel, an old English inn, in Trafalgar Square. In the evening I heard Adelina Patti at the Royal Opera in Auber's "Crown Diamonds" ; Sir Michael Costa, conductor. The next morning, Sunday, I attended morning service in the Abbey, and in the afternoon at St. Paul's hearing the quartet from "Elijah," "O Come, Every One That Thirsteth," with Sir John Stainer at the organ. On Monday evening again to the opera to hear Patti in "Trovatore," a great artist and a great performance. Tuesday evening to the "Alhambra" to see Callodian draw his cartoons of noted people, among others the "Tichborne Claimant" and "Shah of Persia."