How to figure out and arrange pattern work for weaving colored fabrics, explained and illustrated, together with other simple rules and calculations pertaining to weaving departments

Front matter

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HOW TO FIGURE OUT AND ARRANGE

Chapter Eleven

How to find the Percentage of Sizing on a warp.

To find out how much the cloth will Take-up in Width in Weaving.

To find the Take-up in warp in length.

To find the Number of Ends Required in a warp for a given width of goods.

Chapter Twelve

How to figure the Weight of a piece of goods before it is woven, plain weave.

How to figure the Weight of a piece of goods with cord work.

How to figure the weight of goods after they are woven, by pounds, and by ounces.

CHAPTER THIRTEEN How to find the weight of a warp

How to find the length, and how to find the number of the yarn.

CHAPTER FOURTEEN Short rules on figuring Percentage of Production

How to find Loom Constant.

How to find Cloth Constant.

How to find Average Speeds of Looms running different speeds.

Chapter One

, We will take for our first pattern to be worked out a very simple one, as follows :

8 Hack 8 white

16 Total ends in pattern

In this warp we will say we will have 1400 ends in addition to the selvage, and we will have 32 ends for selvage— 16 ends on each side of the cloth; therefore, our total number of ends in the warp will be 1432.

Now in working out the pattern we will simply use the 1400 ends and add the other 32 ends, we propose to use for selvage later.

Our pattern should read as follows :

8 ends of black 8 ends of white

Now the above represents one complete pattern and we find we have 16 ends to each complete pattern, and in order to find out how much of each color is required in the warp, we must first find out how many complete patterns there will be in the full width of the cloth ; therefore, as we are to have 1400 ends in the full width of the cloth besides the selvage, we must first divide 1400 by 16, which will give us the total number of complete patterns, thus:

120 112

Now we find we have 87 complete patterns and 8 ends over.

By referring to our pattern we find we call for 8 ends of black to each pattern, and as we have 87 patterns we must multiply our 87 by 8 in order to find out how many ends of black are required in the warp, thus :

696 ends of bl-ck required

For the white, we get that the same way : 87

696 ends of white required

Now we take the 696 ends of black and the 696 ends of white and add them together, thus :

Here, we find the total ends of black and white only amount to 1392, and it should be 1400,

Now we refer back to where we worked out the pattern on page seven and we find we have 8 ends over. This S ends added to the 1392 makes the 1400. Thus :

Now the next question is, which color should these 8 ends be added on to? One might suppose that as the pattern calls for just as much white as it does black, that we should divide it and add 4 ends on each color; but that would not be right. By referring to cut below this will possibly be more clearly understood.

►ONE complete: PATTE.RN

THIS SPACE. RLPRLSLNTS THE 67 COMPLETE- PATTERNS

CUT N9 I

This cut Number 1 is supposed to represent the cloth in the pattern we are working on, and you will notice that we have 8 of black next to the selvage on both sides ; therefore, we have one more black stripe in the total width of the cloth than we have of the white, and as we have 8 ends of black to each stripe we will add the 8 ends we have over onto the black, making it read as follows :

704 ends of black 696 ends of white

32 ends of white for selvage

In this case it is important that we add the 8 ends on the black so as to make both sides of the cloth look alike, as shown in cut Number 1 ; and in order to make it clear to the beamer hand or slasher man, when he commences to lay in this warp, it should be written as

follows :

End here 8 black Total Ends

8 white 704 black

— 728 white, selvage included

1432 87 patterns. Selvage 16 ends on both sides.

The point marked "End here" shows the beamer or slasher man just how the last pattern should come out when he lays in the warp, and if it does not come out as marked it proves that he has made a mistake in laying in, or that there is a mistake in the number of ends in the warp.

Chapter Two

Now we will take up another pattern similar to the first one, as follows :

32 ends in pattern

In this pattern we will use 1400 ends besides the selvage, just as we did before. But, in order to find out how many complete patterns there will be, we must divide the 1400 ends by 32, as that is the number of ends to each complete pattern in this warp.

120 96

Now we have 16 ends of black to the pattern, and as we have 43 complete patterns we must multiply the 43 by 16 to find out the number of ends of black required :

43 16

258 43

And as we have 16 ends of white also to the pattern we find the required ends of white the same way:

43 16

258 43

688 ends of white (11)

Now we add together the 688 ends of black and the 688 ends of white, as follow^s:

Here we find we have only 1376 ends, when we should have 1400. By referring back to where we worked out this pattern, we find we had 2^ ends over, and by adding the 24 ends to the 1376, thus :

1376 24 we find we have our correct number of ends.

Now the next question is, which color should we add the 24 ends onto? In this case, we would not want to add it all on the black as we did in the first pattern, but in order to make both sides of the cloth look alike we should add 16 ends on the black and 8 ends on the white. The 8 ends added on the white should be included in the selvage, making 20 of white on each side for this pattern, which would read as follows, and the cloth would show up on both sides like Cut Number 2:

End here 16 black Total Ends

16 white 704 black

728 white, selvage included

1482 43 patterns. 20 selvage on both sides.

ONE. COMPLEITE. PATTE.R.M

CUT N?2

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Chapter Three

Suppose we take another pattern with 1400 ends, same as the first two we have just gone over, but have this one read as follows :

40 ends in pattern

We will work this one out just the same way as the first two, as follows :

200 200 and nothing over

We have 20 of black, also 20 of white, to each pattern, so we proceed to find the required number of ends of each color as before :

35 20

700 ends of

35 20

700 ends of

700 ends of 700 ends of

In this case, our total number of ends comes out just right, but if we let our pattern go through, without any change, our cloth will show up like Cut Number 3, which you will admit, I am sure, will not show up to best advantage, as both sides are not alike.

U-ONE COMPLETE. PATTERN

THIS SPACE REPRE.5LNTS THE. 35 COMPLETE PATTERNS

CUT N2 3

CUT N54-

This pattern, however, should be written as follows, and in that case it would show up on both sides alike, as shown in Cut Number 4 :

Start with 10 20 black Total Ends

End with 10 / 20 white 700 black

— 732 white, selvage included 40

1432 35 patterns. 16 ends selvage on both sides.

The above marking means : Start the first pattern, when laying the warp in on the beamer or slasher, with 10 ends of black instead of 20, and the last pattern will come out with 10 ends of black on the other side, as shown in Cut Number 4.

CHAPTER FOUR We will .take the following pattern

16 black 2 white 4 black 2 white

24 ends in one pattern

Here we have 24 ends to each pattern. Considering our warp to have 1400 ends, besides the selvage, as before, we of course follow the same rule in working out the pattern :

200 192

Now we have 20 ends of black to the pattern, so we multiply the 58 by 20 to find out how much black is required :

58 20

1160 ends of black required.

We have 4 ends of white to the pattern, so we multiply the 58 by 4 to see how much white is required:

58 4

232 ends of white required

Adding the 1160 ends of black to the 232 ends of white,

we have

1160 232 and by adding the 8 ends we have over, to the 1392, we find we have the correct number of ends — 1400; or, in other words, it proves our example to be correct.

Now we must find out the right place to put these 8 ends we have over, and also know how it will show up in the cloth next to the selvage.

In reading over the pattern, we find we commence at the top and read 16 of black and at the bottom of the pattern is 2 of white, while of course every time you read the pattern over you start at the top 16 black and wind up at the 2 of white at the bottom. Well, now, we will just suppose that we have read the pattern over 58 times, which is the number of complete patterns we have in this warp. Now you will understand we have 58 patterns and 8 ends over, so when we start over the pattern the 59th time we are counting the 8 ends we have over, and when we get as much as 8 ends of black on the 59th pattern we have used up all our 1400 ends, so you see the 8 ends we have over will come on the black; therefore our warp, when laid in on the beamer or slasher, would show up 16 black next to selvage on one side and 8 of black next to selvage on other side, as shown in Cut Number 5.

-ONE COMPLETE PATTERN

THIS SPACE. REPRESENTS THE 5a COMPLETE PATTERNS

CUT N05

CUT N9G

While the difference in appearance in this particular pattern on each side, is not very noticeable, and would make but little difference in the general appearance of the goods, yet it is just as easy to have both sides alike, which always looks better, so we will arrange the pattern accordingly and the cloth will show up on both sides as shown in Cut Number 6, and the pattern should be marked as follows :

Start with 12

264 white, selvage included

58 complete patterns. 16 ends selvage on both sides.

CHAPTER FIVE Now we will take a pattern having 4 colors, as follows

This much towards the 37th pattei'n .

Ends here l4 blue

2 red

2 red width of the cloth

2 red

2 red in the

38 total ends in pattern.

In working out this pattern we will follow the same rule and methods as before, using 1400 ends in the warp in addition to the selvage :

In working out a pattern with several colors, it is well to make a memorandum of the number of ends required of each color in one pattern, as it proves convenient in getting out the total number of ends of each color, and at the same time helps to avoid errors. So we will make our memorandum as follows, which is the number of ends required in one pattern of each color:

14 ends of blue 12 ends of white

8 ends of red

This, you see, adds up 38, which shows that it balances with the 38 ends called for in the pattern (see page 20) .

Referring back to our example on page 20 where we divided the 1400 by 38, we find we have 36 complete patterns, so to find the amount of each color required we proceed as before.

In our memorandum we find we have 14 ends of blue to the pattern, so we multiply the 36 by 14 to find the total number of ends of blue required, etc. :

blue total ends of blue total ends of white

8 red

288 total ends of red 144 total ends of black

Now we add all our totals together, as follows :

504 blue 432 white 288 red 144 black

Now we have only 1368 ends accounted for out of the 1400, which we are supposed to have. By adding the 32 ends we have over, as shown in our example, we find it totals up 1400, as follows:

1368 32

1400 (21)

Here the question comes up again, what should we do with the 32 ends? Now get this fixed in your mind thoroughly, that the 36 complete patterns are all included in the 1368 ends, and the 32 ends we have over is simply that many more ends belonging to our warp and is that much on to the 37th pattern. So by referring back to our pattern on page 20, counting on down from the first of the pattern to the point indicated at 2 of red, you will see that it takes up the 32 ends which we have over, and by counting from this point back to the top, and making notes of the number of ends of each color, you will find out where to add the 32 ends, as follows : Starting at the 2 of red, as marked, we have —

6 ends of red 8 ends of white 4 ends of black 14 ends of blue

Now going back to page 21, where we got out our total number of ends of each color, we find, by adding the above to it, we have the following:

14 added to 504 gives us 518 ends of blue

8 added to 432 gives us 440 ends of white

6 added to 288 gives us 294 ends of red

4 added to 144 gives us 148 ends of black

With the pattern arranged, as we now have it on page 20, our cloth would show up on both sides like Cut Number 7 below.

-ONE. COMPLE.TE- PATTERN

THIS SPACE REPRESENTS THE 3<o COMPLETE PATTERNS

CUT N2 7

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The above cut would pass, of course, but it would not be arranged to best advantage. Therefore it should be arranged as follows, and then both sides of the cloth would show up like Cut Number 8 :

Start with 8

14 blue

2 red

2 red

2 red

2 red

Now by referring back to our pattern on page 20, you will find we only lack the last 6 ends of the pattern of having enough to complete the last pattern (or, in other words, the 37th pattern), as we had 36 complete patterns and 32 ends over. But, in order to arrange this pattern to best advantage, we will take 8 of the 32 ends we propose to use for selvage, and use these 8 ends towards completing our last or 37th pattern.

By referring again to the pattern on page 20 you will note below the point indicated, that we requira 4 ends of white and 2 ends of red to complete the 37th pattern. So here, we use 6 of the 8 ends we have taken off of the selvage, and we have 2 ends left over, which we will use on the blue, and our pattern will be as follows :

14 blue

2 red

2 red

in the width of the cloth and the 2 ends of blue over as shown at bottom.

2 red

2 red

2 blue ove

r

Now you must understand that the 14 ends of blue at the top of pattern would come first, and would be next to selvage on one side of the cloth, with the 2 ends of blue at the bottom of pattern coming last, when laying in the warp, and would be next to selvage on the other side. So we would have 14 of blue on one side of the cloth and 2 on the other. By adding the 14 ends and 2 ends together we have 16 ends, so we will use only 8 ends of blue in the first pattern, and we will have the other 8 to go on the other side, making the cloth look alike on both sides, as shown in Cut Number 8, and our pattern should be as follows :

start with 8

14 blue

2 white 2 red

520 blue

468 white, selvage ii

296 red

2 red

-

4 blue

2 red

2 red

37 complete patterns. 12 ends selvage on both sides.

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CUT N9 (5

Take the pattern we have just worked out, and work it out for a warp of 1600 ends instead of 1400 besides the selvage, and you will find we get about the same results, but arrive at it in a little different manner:

blue red red blue red red

Now in using a warp of 1600 ends, we of course divide the 1600 by 38 to find out how many complete patterns we have:

80 76

Now the fellow who does not know exactly how these 4 extra ends should be worked in on a pattern, would say in this case — well, just add that on to the selvage — and of course would make no mark on his pattern indicating how it should commence or end up when laying in the warp ; consequently the cloth would show up on both sides just about like Cut Number 7, except it would have 2 ends more of white and 2 more of red coming next to selvage on one side, and the last 2 of white would also be thrown into the selvage, and he would have 16 of white for selvage on one side and 22 on the other, which would not show up well in the finished piece of goods.

The right way to handle this pattern, however, would be as follows : Add the U ends over onto the blue, and as you understand, these 4 ends of blue would come on the side of the warp you finish up on when laying it in. So you would have the first 14 ends of blue as called for in the pattern on the side you commence on and the 4 ends over on the other side. Now we will just say we will take 4 ends out of the first pattern where we commence and place them over on the other side with the other ^ ends and make our cloth show up with 10 of blue in first pattern next to selvage instead of 14, and 8 ends on the other side coming next to the selvage, and the pattern should be written as follows :

Start with 10 14 blue

End with 8/2 white

2 red

2 red

2 red

2 red

38 42 complete patterns. 16 ends selvage on both sides.

Now we will work out the total ends as before, as follows :

14 blue ends to pattern

Here we have 588 ends of blue in the 42 patterns, and as we are to add the 4 ends we have over on the blue our total ends will be as follows:

Selvage

42 12

84 42

504 32

ends

42 8 red

592 blue 536 white, 336 red 168 black

selvage included

With this pattern arranged, as shown on page 27, the cloth would show up the same as in Cut Number 8, except there would be 10 ends of blue on first side instead of 8.

Chapter Six

In this chapter we will take up a pattern having some corded work, which you will note brings about a slight change in the way we find the number of patterns contained in the warp. We will take the following pattern :

16 blue

4 white 16 blue 2 white 2 black cord 4 white one eye (one dent) .2 black 2 white 4 red 2 white 2 black cord 4 white one eye (one dent) 2 black 2 white

64 4 less extra ends used to each pattern

Now it must be understood that all the patterns we have been working out, up to this one, have been in the plain construction of 2 ends to each dent in the reed, and in working out any pattern that is irregular in the reed, such as cords, or extra doublings, it must be figured on the same basis as though there were 2 ends to each dent, in order to keep the same width of warp in the reed; therefore, in this case, as the 2 cords in each pattern use 4 ends to the dent, we have 4 extra ends to the pattern (2 extra ends at each cord) , so we subtract the 4 extra ends from the total ends :n the pattern, which leaves 60 (as above) ; and this is the figure we must use to divide the total number of ends in the warp by to find out the required number of patterns. Counting 1400 ends to the warp, we have the following :

200 180

Now the way this pattern comes out leaves our selvage ir rather bad shape. So we will have to do some changing around to get both sides to look alike. You will understand, of course, that the 20 ends over are that many ends on towards the 24th pattern; that being the case, of course, we will start back at the top of the pattern to add on and we find our pattern first calls for 16 of blue, and next 4 of white, so we would add 16 ends on to the blue and 4 on to the white, which takes up the 20 ends we have over the 23 patterns. Now if we should add these ends on this pattern, as. just suggested, our pattern should be written as follows, and the selvage would show up like Cut Number 9, page 32:

16 blue End 4 white 16 blue

2 black cord 4 white one eye (one dent)

4 red

2 black cord 4 white one eye (one dent)

Total Ends 752 blue 280 white 184 black

92 red 184 white for cord

32 white for selvage.

16 ends selvage on first side 20 ends selvage on other side

Note — The last four ends of white where the pattern ends come next to selvage on last side, making 20 ends of white for selvage on that side.

We will first get out our memorandum of colors for each pattern, as follows :

32 ends of blue

12 ends of white

4 ends of red

8 ends of white for cord

Referring back to page 30, we find we have 23 complete patterns, so we find the number of ends required of each color as follows :

blue

4 red 8 white for cord

23 23

23 23

36 184

92 184

736 blue

92 red for

cord to

add (See Page 30)

Here we find we have 1492 ends, when we are supposed to have only 1400 ; but you will note that we have 4 extra •ends to the pattern in this warp (see page 29) on account of the corded work, and as we have 23 complete patterns we will multiply the 23 by 4 and we find we have 92 extra ends in the warp on account of the cords.

Now, if we deduct the 92 ends from the 1492, it leaves 1400, and as 1400 ends is the number of ends our pattern is based on, it proves that our example is correct.

On page 30 we show that there are 16 ends of the 20 to be added onto the 736 of blue and 4 onto the 276 of white besides the 32 ends for selvage, which makes our total number of ends as shown on page 30.

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OHZ. COMPLETE PATTERN THIS .space: RLPR.ESENT5 THE 23 COMPLETE PATTERNS

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This pattern as arranged on page 30, which would show up on the selvages as in Cut Number 9, is not correct, but should be arranged as follows and would then show up as -in Cut Number 10, which is correct :

Start with 8 End with 8 / cord

16 blue

16 blue

4 white one

eye (one dent)

4 red

4 white one

eye (one dent)

cord

Now you will notice that in having the pattern arranged as above we lay only 8 ends of blue for the first stripe instead of 16, as called for on page 30, and the 8 ends we have left out here to start with we carry on over to the other side, and when we finish up we find we have 8 ends of blue towards the second 16 of blue called for, which makes our pattern end up as marked above, and the cloth would show up as in Cut Number 10, which, I am sure, you will agree is an improvement over the selvages in Cut Number 9. In this case, however, the number of ends of each color would be the same as shown on page 30.

Chapter Seven

In this chapter we will have still another example in corded work, which, together with the one we have just explained, should enable anyone to handle anything along this line, as the general principles in working out all such patterns are included in these two. As you will understand, the number of heddles required to weave a piece of goods has nothing to do with the number of ends required in the warp. The number of heddles required for producing a piece of goods depends entirely on the kind of weave called for, etc. This part of the work, however, would of course come under the head of designing, while the object of this book is to teach you how to figure out the patterns whether you understand anything about designing or not.

red

one end

each eye red

one end

each eye blue blue blue blue blue blue blue blue blue blue

98 8 extra ends in each pattern

90 Note — All places marked "x" mean, reeded in one dent.

In working out this pattern, as shown on page 34, we will suppose our warp is to have 1600 ends in addition to the 32 ends for selvage.

We find the total number of ends in this pattern is 98. We also find that we have 8 extra ends used in the pattern on account of doublings in the reed, and as we are to work out the pattern on a basis of only 2 ends to each dent in the reed, in order to maintain a given width in the reed, regardless of the doublings in the reed, we simply subtract the 8 extra ends from the 98 in the pattern and use the 90 to work out our pattern by, as follows :

90)1600(17 complete patterns in the warp 90

700 630

Here we find we have 17 complete patterns and 70 ends on towards the 18th pattern, so we begin at the top of our pattern now and count the ends on down until we count 70, and we will find where the 18th pattern would end. Well, now we find it ends with 3 ends of blue at the point indicated (page 34) . Now if we should let this pattern go at that, the selvages of the cloth when woven would show up like Cut Number 11.

ONE COMPLLTE PATTERN |

THIS SPACE. REPRESENTS THE I 7 COMPLETE.! PATTE RnS-qi

CUT N2||

CUT N? 12

In this pattern you will note from Cut Number 11 that the selvages show up quite different, while in Cut Number 12 both selvages are exactly alike ; therefore, we will mark off the pattern showing the starting and stopping points as shown in Cut Number 12, which is correct, and should be written as follows :

X — 4 red

one

end

each

eye

X — 4 red

one

end

each

eye

Start here

4 blue one

eye

4 blue

4 blue one

eye

4 blue

4 blue one

eye

4 blue

4 blue one

eye

4 blue

4 blue one

eye

End here

Now in writing this pattern off for the slasher man or the beamer hand, as the case might be, as shown above, instead of commencing to lay in the warp at 12 black — the first of the pattern — he would commence on the first 4 of blue as indicated, and when he finished up his last pattern would end on the last 4 of blue as indicated.