History of South Boston : formerly Dorchester Neck, now ward XII of the city of Boston

Preface

Much of the following History was written for the columns of the " South Boston Gazette and Dorchester Chronicle," and was printed in that paper, at irregular intervals, during the years 1850 and 18ol. The writer, since deceased, was peculiarly well qualified for this species of authorship ; it was a work in which he took great delight, and no pains were spared in diligent research and careful preparation of materials. It was his intention to collate these scattered chapters of the " History of Mattapannock," as he styled them, at some future period, and publish them in a book, with such alterations and additions as might be found necessary or expedient. The sudden failure of his health, in the summer of 1856, induced him to do this earlier than he had intended, and the whole of the printed matter which he thought suitable to re-publish in this form was carefully prepared for the press before he was wholly confined to a sick-bed.

Early in the year 1857, an arrangement was made by him with, the present Publisher to issue the work during the ensuing summer, with the hope of all that he might live to see it completed. But a wise Providence determined otherwise; he died March 2d, 1857$, when but little more than twenty-four years of age, and this work now follows his premature and lamented decease — his name not more lastingly impressed upon its title-page than it is cherished - in the affectionate remembrance and esteem of his many friends.

The printing of the work was begun, with little thought of adding to the matter then contained in it, or of including any other:

4 PREFACE.

engravings than an ancient Plan of Dorchester Neck and a View of the Lawrence Enclosure ; and an edition of a few hundred copies, it was supposed, would suffice for the demand. As it progressed, however, it was found that additional matters of interest might he advantageously included, as well as various illustrations. These have augmented the expense of publication materially, and may increase the demand for the booh ; but as the printing had considerably advanced, neither the expense nor the anticipated demand could be met by an enlargement of the edition.

In obtaining additional information with which to enrich the « History," and in a general supervision of the whole as it has passed through the press, Alvan Simonds, Esq., and Mr. Joseph H. Simonds, have given much time and valuable labor.

For most of the sketches of " distinguished citizens," the reader is indebted to the pen of the Rev. Lemuel Capen, whose long and familiar acquaintance with the individuals, and acknowledged skill and impartiality in the delineation of character, eminently qualified him for writing these memoirs of some of the Fathers of our Peninsula.

To all others who have aided hi supplying materials for this little work, either recently or to the deceased author in his original efforts, many thanks are cheerfully tendered. Messrs. Ebank Hedge and John Andrew, whose fine wood engravings add much to its embellishment, as well as all concerned in furnishing the beautifully executed portraits, are deserving of praise.

The work is now submitted, by the Publisher, to the citizens of South Boston, in the hope that it may make known and preserve to them a knowledge of persons and events which should not be suffered to pass into oblivion ; and that, though it be found incomplete in many respects, its errors may prove few and unimportant.

CONTENT ff.

Distinguished Citizens 238

Appendix

A. — Memorial of the Committee of the Town of

Dorchester against Annexation . . . . 2YT

B. — Memorial of Petitioners in favor of Annexation 279

C. — Act annexing Dorchester Neck to Boston . 282

D. —Land owned by Mr. Gould — Foster Estate . 284

E. — Act in part authorizing the Erection of Boston

South Bridge 288

F. — Act establishing a Free Bridge in the City of

G.— Extracts from the Will of John Hawes . . 295

H. — Instruction of Laura Bridgman 297

I.— South Boston Memorial, in 1847 300

J. — Act to annex Washington Village to Boston . 313

New Census of Voters 315

Resignation of Ministers, &c 316

LIST OP ILLUSTRATIONS.

Portrait of Cyrus Alger, Esq. . .. . Frontispiece.

Portrait of Hon. Isaac Adams p. 206

Plan of Dorchester Neck in 1*775 31

Plan of South Boston in 1857 196

View of the Lawrence Enclosure at Mt. Auburn 140

View of the Bigelow School-house ....... . 148

View of the Lawrence School-house .... 148

View of the Mt. Washington Female Institute 153

View .op the Dwelling-house of Capt. Noah

Brooks 265

HISTORY OF SOUTH BOSTON.

Chapter I

MATTAPAN SETTLED AND CALLED DORCHESTER — - MATTAPANNOCK CALLED DORCHESTER NECK.

In the early part of the year 1630, a party of pious persons, chiefly residents of the counties of Devon, Dorset and Somerset, in England, came to the decision to emigrate to North America. Accordingly, they held a meeting at Plymouth, and set apart a day for solemn fasting and prayer to seek the divine approbation and assistance. They chose the Rev. John Maverick and the Rev. John Wareham to be their ministers.

Arrangements were immediately made for their emigration ; and on the 20th day of March, the company set sail in the ship Mary and John, of 400 tons,, commanded by Capt. Squeb. They encountered a violent storm on their passage, but yet, as recorded by one of their number, " they came by the good hand of the Lord, through the deeps comfortably." In a poem written by Gov. Wolcott, son of Roger Wblcott, one of the passengers, some particulars of" the voyage are narrated. This poem is to be found: 2 in the Collections of the Massachusetts Historical Society, Vol. IV., pages 262—298. We select from it the following account of the storm to which we have referred.

** The -winds awhile Are courteous, and conduct them on their way, To near the midst of the Atlantic sea, When suddenly their pleasing gales they change For dismal storms that on the ocean range. Meanwhile our founders in the cabin sat, Reflecting on their truly sad estate, Whilst holy Wareham's sacred lips did treat About God's promises and mercies great. And now a mighty sea the sbip o'ertakes, Which, falling on the deck, the bulk-head breaks ; The sailors cling to ropes, and frighted cry, 1 The ship is foundered ! Oh, we die, we die ! r Those in the cabin heard the sailors screech, All rise, and reverend Wareham do beseech. That he would now uplift to heaven a cry For preservation in extremity.

He, with a faith sure bottom' d on the Word Of Him that was of seas and wTinds the Lord, His eye lifts up to Heaven, his hand extends, And fervent prayers for deliverance sends, The winds abate, the threatening waves appease,. And a sweet calm sits regent on the seas. They bless the name of their deliverer, And now they found a God that heareth prayer."

The remainder of the poem is very interestingf and gives an account of the motives which actuated these persons to remove to a wilderness, as also an excellent description of the voyage.

Suffice it to say, that

" Religion was the cause that did incline Ard moved our founders to this great design/'

It was on the 29th of May, Old Style, 1630, that this company arrived on the coast of Massachusetts. It was the last day of the week, and as the rays of the setting sun gilded the land which was in future to be their home, they were very desirous that they might land, that the rest of the Sabbath might not be disturbed. The wind was favorable, and every thing seemed propitious to enable the pilgrims to land ere the day was totally spent. But the captain not knowing the channel, and fearing lest there might not be a sufficient depth of water for his vessel, cast anchor for the night.

According to the agreement, the captain was to land them on the Charles River. Yet in spite of his promises, and in disregard of their veneration for the Lord's Day, and their repeated protestations against the course he was pursuing, the whole company were obliged to land with their goods on Nantasket Point. The captain was afterwards obliged to pay damages for this act.

From their known habits, we can have no doubt that their first act on landing was to kneel in prayer to Him who had thus far been a God to them. Sweetly must the subdued supplication of the beloved Wareham have floated on the air. Landed on a shore far different from what they expected, knowing not which way to proceed, nor how to act, we we may suppose that the prayers offered on that day came from lips that offered no mock service.

In imagination, we think we hear the voices of those who had left friends and home to seek an asylum in the wilds of America, uplifted in prayer and praise. Fervently do they supplicate for protection, and with gratitude do they offer up thanks for their safe arrival ; and

" As the sounding aisles of the dim woods rang To the anthems of the free,"

solemn and impressive must have been the scene.

Thus left to provide for themselves, they succeeded in procuring a boat from an old planter, probably John Oldham, who had left Plymouth Colony, and had settled at Nantasket. This man afterwards united with the company. On Monday forenoon, Captain Southcoat, Roger Clap, and eight other able-bodied men, were appointed to take the boat and visit Mishawaum, at the mouth of Charles River, and ascertain whether they could be there accommodated. In the mean time, other parties were despatched in various directions, to spy out the land. On Wednesday, a part of the company sailed up a bay now called, from that circumstance, Old Harbor, and seeing that the peninsula, now known as South Boston, was a favorable place for the pasturage of cattle, they immediately decided to settle in Mattapan, afterwards called Dorchester. By this means they could enjoy the use of Mattapannock, as it was called by the Indians, or Mattapan neck.

That this was the cause of their settlement in Mattapan, is proved by the following passage from the " Annals " of the town of Dorchester : —

" They had not stayed here at Watertown but a few days' but ye rest of their Company below had found out a neck of land Joyning to a place called by ye Indians Mattapan, that was a fit place to turn their cattle upon to prevent their straying : So they sent to their friends to come away from "Watertown, and they settled at Mattapan, and turned their Cattle upon ye Sd neck then called Mattapannock, now called Dorchester Neck."

From Prince's New England Chronology we also copy the following record : —

EABLY SETTLEMENT. 13

"May 30th (Lord's Day), Mr. Wareham, Maverick, Rossiter, and Ludlow, arrived at Nantasket. Capt. Squeb puts them and their goods on shore at Nantasket Point, and leaves them to shift for themselves. But getting a boat of some old planters, they lade her with goods, and some able-bodied men, well armed, go up to Charlestown, where we find some wigwams, some few English, and one house with an old planter who can speak Indian. We go up Charles River until it grows narrow and shallow, and there with much labor land our goods, the banks being steep. Our Captain is Mr. Southcot, a brave low country soldier, but we are not above ten in number. But are not there many days before we have orders to come away from this place, which is after called Watertown, to Matapan (so spelt in this record, but in those made afterwards written with two t's), because there is a neck fit for to keep cattle on."

It would thus appear, that to the benefits supposed to be gained by having Mattapannock as a pasture ground for cattle, Dorchester is indebted for its early settlement.

The settlers immediately went to work, and for several days " the setting up of cottages, booths and tents " for the shelter of their families, occupied their attention.

Many of the first settlers of Dorchester were " persons of note and figure, being dignified with the title of Mr., which but few in those days were." Quite a number of these men were traders, and when they first selected Dorchester as their residence, intended it as a place of commerce. They accordingly built a fort near the water-side, and mounted several cannon ; but on account of the poor 2* channel and difficult landing, it was thought best to desist from their design, and not a few afterwards removed to Boston, which soon became a place of some commercial importance.

The first settlers landed near the neck, between Mattapan and Mattapannock, and there built their town. Says Blake, " These first settlers set down pretty thick together at the northerly end of the town, next the aforesaid neck of land, and on the easterly side of the sea." This was necessary in order that they might be near their cattle.

Arriving at too late a period to plant even com* mon legumes, they soon came to want. The habitations they had erected were very uncomfortable, and quite a number were obliged to live in tents. In the early part of 1631, bread failed in every house in the settlements except that of the G-overnor. The people ate muscles, clams and ground-nuts, and of these even they had but a limited supply. Accustomed to the best of fare, and to comfortable habitations, it must have proved a great hardship for these " persons of good rank and circumstances in their native country." They endured great suffering, and yet they :murmured not. Though cast down, still they were not overcome ; trusting in an Almighty arm, they felt a strength of soul, and a mighty courage, which enabled them to brave every danger. Their privations and sufferings are thus described by Capt. Roger Clap, in his " Memoirs." " 0 ! the hunger that many suffered, and saw no hope in the eye of reason to be supplied only by clams, muscles and fish. We did quickly build boats, and some went a fishing : but bread was with many a scarce thing, and flesh of all iinds as scarce."

Feeling that God alone could aid them in their troubles7 they set apart February sixth as a day of fastiug and prayer. Before the day came, however, they were relieved from their want and distress. The Governor, who had forseen that provisions would be needed, had sent to Ireland for a supply. The arrival of the " Lion," laden with food, on the fifth of February, prevented the colony from perishing by famine. This unexpected supply of provisions excited anew the hopes of the colonists, and the sixth of February was observed as a day of Thanksgiving and Praise, instead of a day of Fasting,

Roger Clap, in his "Memoirs," thus makes mention of the arrival of a supply of provisions :—

" And in those Days, in our Straits, though I cannot say God sent a Raven to feed us, as He did the prophet Elijah ; yet this I can say to the Praise of God's Glory, that he sent not only poor ravenous Indians, which came with their Baskets of Corn on their Backs, to Trade with us ; but also sent ships from Holland and Ireland with Provisions, and Indian corn from Virginia, to supply the Wants of his dear Servants in this Wilderness, both for Food and Rayment. And when Peoples Wants were great, not only in one Town but in divers Towns, such was the godly Wisdom, Care and Prudence (not Selfishness, but Self-Denial) of our Governour Winthrop and his Assistants, that when a Ship came laden with Provisions, they did order that the whole Cargo should be bought for a General Stock ; and so accordingly it was, and distribution was made to every Town, and to every Person in each Town, as every Man had need. Thus God was pleased to care for his People in Times of Straits, and to fill his Servants with Food and Gladness. Then did all the Servants of God bless his holy Name, and love one another with pure Hearts fervently."

During the year 1631, the arrival of several ships increased the number of the colonists, and likewise augmented their stock of provisions, as each vessel brought food for the settlement. Our ancestors also reaped a plentiful harvest at the close of the season, and although they had enough and to spare, yet they practised the greatest economy, not knowing what was before them. One of their number thus writes : " We were taught by our many trials and sufferings to stoop to a wilderness condition, which we had freely chosen to ourselves for the quiet of our own minds and the good of posterity." The affairs of the colony appeared very prosperous, and those who but the year before had felt fearful lest the settlement would be abandoned, now looked forward with hope to the time when it should become a stronghold of those religious principles, for the free exercise of which they had left their native land and braved the dangers of the wilderness.

The years 1631 and 1632 were mostly occupied in settling the affairs of the colony, in building habitations, and in establishing a body to make laws, to provide for the common defence, and carry into operation all measures which it might be thought best to adopt. Says Blake, in his " Annals," which contain nearly all the authentic history of the settlement of Dorchester extant, " These years were spent in working themselves into Settlements, & Incorporating into a Body to carry on ye Public Affairs of ye Plantation; in Granting many Parcels of Land & Meadow to I suppose every particular Person ; but for ye House-lots where they first Set down, we have no Records of them, they being taken up as aforesaid."

It is believed that the form of government or

Town organization; which has prevailed in New England for the last two centuries, and which has contributed so much to the well-being of society, had its origin in the town of Dorchester. The settlers of this town in 1633 began the practice of electing Selectmen to provide for the best interests of the colony, and to put into execution all laws that might be made. Says Blake, "This year (1633) this Plantation began ye Practice of Choosing men, that we now call Selectmen or Townsmen. They Chose 12 this year to order ye Affairs of ye Plantation, who were to have their Monthly Meeting, and their orders being Confirmed by ye Plantation were of full force and being to ye Inhabitants. There were many orders made this year concerning Cattle and Fences, &c, & Penalties annexed j besides many grants of Land."

On the 16th of August, 1635, the Rev. Richard Mather arrived at Boston. This distinguished clergyman, of whom we shall speak at greater length hereafter, was accompanied with one hundred other persons desirous of settling in New England. Blake says, "Arriued here on Aug. 16th, the Revd. Mr. Richard Mather, that was a long time after Pastor of this Church, and with him a great Number of Godly People that Settled here with him. There came with him 100 Passengers, & 23 Seamen, 23 Cows and Heifers, 3 Sucking Calues, and 8 Mares, & none Died by ye way, though they met with as terrible a storm as was almost ever heard of." Immediately on his arrival, Mr. Mather received invitations to settle at Plymouth, Roxbury, and Dorchester. By the advice of his friends, Cotton and Hooker, he chose the latter place.

The following is a record made of this year by

Blake. " This year made great alteration in ye town of Dorchester, for Mr. Mather & ye G-odly people that came with him from Lancashire wanting a place to settle in, some of ye People of Dorchester were willing to remoue and make room for them, and so Mr. Warliam & about half ye Church remoue d to Windsor in Connecticut Colony, and Mr. Mather & his people came & Joined with Mr. Maverick and that half of ye Church that were left, and from these people so united are ye greatest part of ye present Inhabitants descended. When these two Companies of people were thus united they made one Church, having ye Sd Revd. Mr. John Maverick, & ye Sd Revd. Mr. Richard Mather for their Pastors."

Chapter II. Division Of Mattapannock

It was not till the year 1637 that there was any formal division of Mattapannock, and it is probable that till that date all the settlers had a right to have their cattle pastured in South Boston. In this year, however, a number of the colonists obtained from the town the exclusive privilege of using the peninsula. Says Blake, " In some part of this Year the Town chose 20 Men to order ye affairs of ye Plantation ; and very many orders were made for ye disposal of small pieces of Land & Marsh, &c, and a List of those who were to haue Land in ye Division of ye Neck & other Lands, consisting of about 104 Names."

It is supposed that no legal division was made ; that is, the land was not divided into separate por-

DIVISION OF M ATT AP ANNO CK. W

tions, but each had a right in common to use it as a pasture. The following is a list of the names of those who had a right to use Mattapannock, now South Boston, taken from the Town Records : —

Thomas Andrews. Mr. Humphrey Atherton. Mr. James Bates. Mr. Bellingham. John Benham. Mrs, Briggs. William Blake. Edward Bullock. Mr. Nicholas Butler. Bernard Capen (this man died Nov. 8, 1638, aged 76 years). John Capen (a distinguished personage, who became a Freeman in 1634, was Captain of the Militia, Deacon and Representative, and died April 4, 1692, aged 80 years), Edward Clap (this man was Deacon of the Church 26 years). Nicholas Clap (also Deacon). Roger Clap (afterwards Captain of the Castle, and author of the interesting Memoirs of the first settlement of the Town). Austin Clement. Richard Collicot. Robert Deeble. Thos. Dickerman. Thomas Dimmock. Nathaniel Duncan. George Dyer. John Eelles. Joseph Farnsworth. Benjamin Fenn. Joseph Flood. Widow Foster. Christopher Gibson (this person was one of the founders of the Second Church in Boston, and bequeathed his property, after the payment of his debts and legacies, to be invested in some real estate, " for the promoting of Dorchester ; it amounted to .£104). Mr. John Gilbert. Mr. John Glover (another distinguished man, a Captain and a Representative, the first who set up tanning in Massachusetts, and died Jan. 1654). John Greenway (Good man). Thos. Hatch. Mr. William Hathorne (a Representative, Speaker of the House/ Captain of the Militia, Major and Assistant). John Hayden. Richard Hawes (Good man). Mr. Hawkins. Mr. John Hill. John Holland. John Holman. John Hull. Jonas Humphreys. Mr. Hutchinson. Richard Jones. Thos. Jones. Mr. John Knight. Thomas Kinnersley. John Kinsley. Thos. Lambert. William Lane (Good man). Mr. Thomas Makepeace. Mr. Martin. Rev. Richard Mather. Alexander Miller. John Miller. Thomas Millet. Mr. George Minot (this man was Ruling Elder of the Church for 30 years). John Moore. Edward Munnings. Mr. Thomas Newbury. John Niles. Mr. James Parker (a clergyman). John Phillips. John Pierce. Robert Pierce. Andrew Pitcher. John Pope. William Preston, Daniel Price. George Proctor. Widow Purchase. William Read. Mr. Thomas Richards. Joseph Rigby. Thos. Samford. Matthew Sension. Widow Smed. John Smith. Mr. Stouo-hton. William Sumner. Thomas Swift, Nich* olas U'psall. Richard Wade. Nathaniel Wales. George Way. George Weeks. John Whitcomb. Edward White. Mr. Whitfield. Mr. Whitman. Bray Wilkins. Thomas Wis wall. Mr. Withington. Henry Wright. Richard Wright.

It appears, then, that Mattapannock, now so valuable a part of Boston, was considered by the first settlers as not of sufficient value to be divided. It was a fine pasture for the herds of cattle which the colonists brought with them, and accordingly was used exclusively for that purpose. We can imagine the appearance of South Boston at that time. A peninsula, or rather an island at high water, covered with a rich growth of grass, marked the spot now occupied by hundreds of dwelling-houses. Where now are laid out wide streets, once grazed a large number of cattle. In some parts of the peninsula were found clumps of trees, which afforded shelter for the kine. By constructing a few rods of fence, the cattle were prevented from straying away. This fence was built near the present junction of Dorchester Avenue and the causeway between South Boston and Dorchester. From thence ran a pathway to the Neck, commanded by a gate. Persons were appointed to collect and drive all the kine to the common pasture, and to go for them at night. We are informed by the chronicle that " The oxen and steers were in one fenced pasture by themselves, and the younglings in another."

Thus for many years was South Boston used only as a pasture for cattle. It may be a consolation, however, to reflect that among those who had a right to occupy Mattapannock, there were numbered some of the most illustrious of the colonists. Several Representatives, three or four Captains, two clergymen, quite a number of Good men and Misters, sent their kine daily to South Boston to eat of the fat of the land; while among the names of the one hundred and four, we find several Widows who also shared in the peninsula which was " so fit a place for cattle." Even good Richard Mather shared in this privilege, and sent his Brindle to graze on the very ground perchance where now stands the edifice called by his name and devoted to the acquisition of useful knowledge.

In 1642 was launched the first ship built in Dorchester. Although we find no mention made as to the place where it was built, still there is but little doubt that it was constructed near the residences of the colonists, and therefore not far from South Boston. It was probably- launched into the Old Harbor.

The following are some of the regulations made at various times by the Town in regard to the cattle to be pastured in Mattapannock.

"April 3, 1638. It is ordered that for this year 3 only the oxen, mares, goats and young cattle shall be kept at the Neck, and no man shall keep any cowes there on pain of ten shillings for every cow so kept there contrary to this order.

" Feb. 13, 1639. It is ordered that no swine shall be kept at the Great Neck, on pain of five shillings to be levied by distress.

" April 1, 1640. It is ordered that no man shall put any cattle on the Great Neck till the 15th of this month, on pain of 12d. for every beast that shall be found there before that day, to be levied by distress."

The last order was passed in order to prevent persons from turning their cattle out to pasture before the grass was of sufficient growth to supply them with food. The same order was passed in succeeding years.

Several years passed before any definite division was made. From the following order, passed the 7th of the 4th month, 1642, we are led to suppose that those who received land on the Neck in 1637r had commenced marking out their plots.

it Agreed that in laying out the Neck of land, they are to begin at the north side of the Neck, and lay that out first, namely of the north side of the way that is laid out. And when that is laid out, then to begin at the south side of the way and go forward ; that if any land be left, it may lie at the farthest part towards the castle, and Bro. Jones, Mr. Glover, and Bro. Wilks are to give such allowance for swamps as they in their wisdom shall think meet."

When the division was made, a certain portion of the Neck was reserved by the town as a common pasture. Any person had the privilege of allowing his cattle to graze on this parcel, provided he paid a small tax imposed by the town.

In November, 1656, the proprietors of the Neck made a long statement of grievances which they suffered, and requested certain changes in the position of the fence about the town pasture. The matter was duly considered, and such changes were made as to satisfy the complainants. In 1657 the fence across the passage from the main land to Mattapannock had become broken in some places, and the ■causeway needed repairs. The following order was' passed Dec. 4, at a regular Town Meeting: —

" Ordered, that the proprietors of the Neck be requested to repair the fence and causeway, and in default of so doing they be prosecuted under the law in regard to roads and fences."

In 1667 the persons who owned land in Mattapannock were obliged to p-ay a tax of half a penny on •each acre of plowed land only. The following is a list of those who were rated, 11th month, 3d day: —

■" Capt. Clap, 7d. ; Jos. Farnsworth, Is.; Anniel Weeks, 2d.; Obadiah Swift, 2d. ; Widow Smith, 3d. Mr. Patten, 2d.; Richard Baker, Is.; William Sum ner, 7d. ; John Blackman, Id.; Nicholas Clap, lid. Angus tin Clement, 4d. ; Widow Clap, 9d. ; Timothy Mather, Is. 2d.; Capt. Foster, is. 6d. ; Kichard Withington, Is. Id.; William Clarke, 6d. ; John Blake, Id.; Samuel Clap, 4d. ; Wid. Baker, Is. 3d.; Obadiah Hawes, Id. ; Wid. Mannings, 3d. ; Ezra Clap, 6d.; John Capen, Junr., 2d.; Deacon Wiswall, >8d..; George Dyer, 6d. ; Dea. Capen, 3d. ; Mr. Howard, 7d. ; John Mosely, 2d. ; Mrs. Stoughton, 2s. ; Isaac Jones, 6d. ; Widow Batten, 4d. ; James White, 2d. ; Mr. Jones, lOd. ; Ebenezer Williams, 3d. ; Enoch Wiswall, 6d. ; Thomas Lake, Id. ; James Blake, lid. ; Nath'l Clap, 6d. Total sum, 19s. 9d.