From Moscow to the Persian gulf, being the journal of a disenchanted traveller in Turkestan and Persia

Front matter

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The Madrasa of Shdh Husayn, Isf&han

FROM MOSCOW TO THE PERSIAN GULF

Foreword

All the books I have ever read about Persia, have been more or less rose-coloured; encouraging persons who — like myself — dreamed of how they might one day visit the land of Iran, hallowed by history and by memories of the lovely art it produced in epochs that shall never return. When at last I travelled in Persia, I found it disappointing; nevertheless my journey was so instructive, so diversified by amusing incidents, and offered so much that was curious or picturesque, I would not willingly have foregone it. I have therefore thought that pages whose one aim is sedulously to describe the country as it^ really is, might have a value of their own— however slight — not possessed even by masterpieces of rhythm and romance such as Loti's Vers Ispahan; while stating frankly all that was disagreeable, I have, however, endeavoured to bring out the beauty of many places in Persia, and avoid in my narrative the monotony which so frequently characterized the scenery.

It would be a subject for regret, should anything I have written convey the idea that I consider my unfavourable opinion of Persia and her people definitive even for myself; I have merely noted a viii Foreword

traveller's passing impressions as accurately as possible, not pretending to judge a historic race by the observation of a single visit.

I leave the book in the shape of a joiimal, believing it to be both a form that has in English greater novelty than that of more ambitious works, and also one permitting a more personal expression.

B. B. M.

New York, May, 1915.

Contents

L-

—Moscow TO ASKABAD .

PAGE I