Forty years in Canada : reminiscences of the great North-West : with some account of his service in South Africa

Front matter

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FORTY YEARS IN CANADA By COLDS, By SbTRRECE, C.B. M:-V,O,

Introduction

WRITTEN AT THE SPECIAG REQUEST OF THE LATE

LORD STRATHCONA, G.C.M.G.

for Colonel Steele’s projected book, but his lamented

death intervened. Although not able to carry out

his intention, he did not forget the promise; and among his last words was a request to me to undertake the duty for him and in his name. Lord Strathcona had a sincere regard for Colonel Steele, and never forgot the services rendered by him as commanding officer of “ Strathcona’s Horse ” during the South African war. When his name was mentioned for that position, Lord Strathcona at once accepted the nomination, as he recognised that Colonel Steele was one of the most suitable men for the command, in view of his long experience in that famous force the Royal North West Mounted Police. I write with some knowledge of the subject, as it was my privilege to assist Lord Strathcona in the organisation of his distinguished regiment ; and, besides, I can look back on twenty years or more of personal acquaintance with the author of this volume. In this connection, I may say in passing that it was a gracious act on the part of the Canadian Government to perpetuate the name of “‘ Strathcona’s Horse ”’ by the formation of the permanent western regiment which now bears that honoured name. Lord Strathcona was much gratified by this mark of consideration, and it was especially pleasing to him that Colonel Steele was selected for its command.

The reader of Colonel Steele’s book will be impressed with the simplicity and vigour of the man. His life during the last forty years, except for the time he was in South Africa,

Vv

TT: late Lord Strathcona promised to write a foreword vi INTRODUCTION is synonymous with the progress and development of the western territories of the Dominion of Canada, now one of the leading agricultural countries of the world. He was there in the early days before there were railroads or settlements or wheat fields—when the country was largely in possession of the Indian and the trapper, and covered by herds of hundreds of thousands of the buffalo. What a change these forty years, or thirty years, or even a lesser period has brought about ! In the decade from 1870 to 1880, and even up to 1890, it was possible to travel over many parts of this vast area without seeing a house from morning till evening ; while at the present time passengers on the thousands of miles of railway that now intersect the western provinces in every direction are hardly ever out of sight of cities, towns and villages, huge grain elevators, and thriving homesteads.

It is impossible to give too much credit to successive governments, to the Hudson’s Bay Company, and to the Royal North West Mounted Police for what they have done to assist in the peaceful and wonderful development of what was once the red-man’s country, and described, later on, by Lord Beaconsfield as “an illimitable wilderness.’ It is true that there were some troubles in 1869-70, when the country was transferred from the Hudson’s Bay Company to the Dominion Government, and again in 1885; but these arose rather from the misdirected ambition of a few prominent men among the half-breeds and Indians than from any really deep-rooted grievances. The Hudson’s Bay Company had always instilled into the native mind that fair treatment would be extended to them, that the word of the Great White Company and its officers could always be relied upon and kept. The Government continued this policy, and it soon became known that justice was being administered equally to the red man and to the white. Herein lies the explanation of the excellent relations it has always succeeded in maintaining with the red population —which enabled the country to be opened up for settlement and cultivation with so little friction and difficulty. The North West Mounted Police was the channel through which this wise policy was carried out, and the tact and discretion it has always shown in keeping law and order within so

INTRODUCTION vii immense a territory, and the confidence felt in the force both by the Indians and the settlers, afford ample evidence of the manner in which such duties have been carried out.

Few are aware of the part played by the Mounted Police in connection with the construction of railways in, and the immigration movement to, Manitoba and the other western provinces since the early seventies. The men employed on the construction work, especially-in the earlier days, were not exactly angels, and a good deal of tact, good temper and determination had to be shown in handling them. And further, immigrants of all races have been pouring into the country in their thousands and tens of thousands, and many of these settlers must be grateful to the Mounted Police for timely help and counsel. The force has also been of much use to the Indian Department in its successful efforts to transform the red man into a useful citizen and a worker. My experience _and I have travelled over a good deal of the country—is that the officers and troopers of the North West Mounted Police are welcomed wherever they go. Their work has not been confined to the settled districts, or districts in course of settlement; they have done splendid pioneer work in the Yukon, and are still similarly engaged round the shores of Hudson's Bay, and in the far northern boundaries of the country.

Colonel Steele has taken no small part in the course of events to which reference has been made, and has a record of which most men would be proud. His life has been full of incident, but he is a modest man, never accustomed to blow his own trumpet, preferring the more sterling satisfaction of doing well whatever duty was entrusted tohim. Heisa splendid example of the man who puts deeds before words, and this is shown not only in his record in Canada, but while in command of Strathcona’s Horse, and in his subsequent work in the South African Constabulary. For all these reasons I have no doubt that this yolume of reminiscences will have a wide circle of readers in the many parts of the Empire in which the name and sterling qualities of Colonel Sam Steele are well known and appreciated.

Jo Gs COEMER, DoMINION Day, 1st July, 1914.

INTRODUCTION : : ; ; Vv

Chapter I

My birth and ancestry—A fighting family—My father’s career in the navy—The Leopard and the Chesapeake—His first marriage—He emigrates—His life of public service—A tedious journey—His second marriage—Our early education—The training of a backwoodsman—My half-brother, John Steele—A crack shot—Fenian raids—My military training—The Clarksburg Company—The Red_ River rebellion : é i ; . ‘ - :

Chapter II

The Red River settlement—The transfer to the Dominion— Dissatisfaction of the Metis—Louis Riel—Capture of Fort Garry—Attempts at conciliation—Mr. Donald Smith— Riel’s violence—Murder of Scott—Public indignation— Organization of an expedition—Colonel Wolseley—I join— Preparations—A narrow escape—Prince Arthur’s landing— Jack of all trades—The voyageurs—The advance—The difficulties of the expedition—Donald McKellar—Captain Redvers Buller. : ‘ ‘ . ‘ ‘ ‘

Chapter III

Colonel Wolseley’s example—Portaging—A ship’s load—Monsteur Baril—Dissensions among the rebels—The Winnipeg river—‘‘ Anak ’’—An exciting moment—The Stone Fort— Fort Garry—Winnipeg—The success of the expedition— Tributes to the troops—An unfortunate incident—Smallpox in the west—Its rapid spread—I am promoted to corporal —A tough lot—Trouble in the barracks—Drills and “‘ Ladies’ Parades ” ; : ; : i ; : 22

Chapter IV

Winnipeg forty years ago—Dances—Weddings—Funerals— Sundays—Schools—Buffaloes—The new province of Maniix toba—Election riots—Our relaxations—We leave Fort Garry—Home again—The Canadian artillery—A good record—An active veteran—The inception of the North West Mounted Police—‘‘ The wild and woolly west ’’—

Whisky traders—'* Whoop up ’—" The Spitsee cavalry ‘i A treacherous attack—The Peigans, Crees, and Assiniboines—The state of things in the west . : ° .

Chapter V

The organization of the N.W.M.P.—We leave for Fort Garry—I am made sergeant-major—Anomalies of the organization— Life at the Stone Fort—The march to the wilderness—A stampede—A motley calvacade—The march—We leave the main party—We start for Edmonton—A convoy of crocks—A disastrous jump—Forest fires—Pemmican— Fort Carlton—Roast skunk—Difficulties of the journey— Exhausted horses—A sea of mud—An awful night—The limit of endurance—Trouble on trouble—Edmonton at last —Colonel French’s march—Jerry Potts—The Rockies— Whisky raids—The first pow-wow with the Blackfeet Nation—Crowfoot—The Blackfeet—A case of self-defence —The Swan River barracks—Colonel French’s report—A record march 5 ; ‘ : , ; ‘ :

Chapter VI

Edmonton—English Charley—The police ball—Whisky runners —Buffalo Lake camp—oOur first mail—Fort Saskatchewan —Iam appointed chief constable at Swan River—My journey —Indian piety—Gabriel Dumont—The law of the plains— Buffalo hunts—The manufacture of pemmican—lIts excellence—The building of the barracks at Swan River—The personnel of the N.W.M.P.—The work of the force—lIts high standard—Its equipment—Colonel French’s resignation—Our presentation to him

. e e °

Chapter VII

Lt.-Col. Macleod appointed Commissioner—Short notice—A long trek—The Indian Treaties of 1876—Fort Carlton—The council—The dance of the stem—The signing of the treaty —Fort Pitt—Another treaty—Headquarters at Fort Macleod—Sitting Bull—Custer’s army annihilated—Spotted Eagle’s account—A busy time—The chinook—Christmas at Fort Macleod—Hiram Upham—The influence of the force—An unfortunate affair—The Indian treaties of 1877

CONTENTS 5

PAGE —The Lieutenant Governor’s speech—Crowfoot’s speech— The chiefs sign—The Indians’ tribute to Colonel Macleod’. 101

Chapter VIII

_ The Sioux in Canada—Major Walsh and Sitting Bull—Grievances against the United States—The commission—General Terry —The conference with the chiefs—Sitting Bull’s reply— Failure of the commission—Work at Fort Macleod—Buckskin Charlie—The Assiniboine sun dance—The initiation of the braves—Indian signs—An awful journey—Big Bear’s band—Leveillée—Jerry Potts—An adventurous youth— A triumph of strategy—Indian honesty—An intelligent goose . ; , : : ‘ , d : ‘

GHAPTER 7 IX

Postal facilities in the north west—A fraudulent contractor— American hospitality—Civil War veterans—Changes in the force—An unsuccessful experiment—Horse stealing—An accident—A bad attack of fever—A mysterious murder— The buffalo lost to Canada—Hardships of the north west— A masonic banquet—The mystery cleared up—A courageous arrest—A scandalous verdict—Trouble with the Sarcees— Horse thieves—Moose Jaw Bone—Fort Qu’appelle—The last fight between Indians in Canada—A ludicrous episode —Colonel Macleod’s resignation—Lt.-Col. Irvine succeeds him—My winter quarters—Snow blindness—An old plainhunter’s remedy—An agricultural experiment—Sitting Bull again—He surrenders to the United States—The Governor General’s tour—His reception in the west—The Indian chiefs’ welcome—The Governor General on the duties of the Mounted Police ; : . F : ; ; 141

Chapter X

Settlers in the west—The land boom—The prodigal son— Recruiting for the force—The construction of the C.P.R.— Regina— The Pile of Bones”—A game of poker—A speedy trial—The farm colonies—An amateur rancher— A clever ruse—Work on the C.P.R.—An unsatisfactory N.C.O.—Calgary—Misguided enthusiasm—Trouble with the Blackfeet—General Strange’s ranch—Prohibition—Ingenious devices—A brutal murder—Clues—No lynching in Canada—Indian unrest—I am appointed to British Columbia—A prisoner escapes—I am sent to re-arrest him— Crowfoot—Indian hostility—A ticklish position—Firmness succeeds—An amazing acquittal—New Calgary. , Aas

Xi

Chapter XI

The C.P.R. in the Rockies—The prohibition belt—Difficulties in our way—Extension of our powers—The Tote Road— Kicking Horse Pass—A remarkable experience—I have a narrow escape—No idling on the C.P.R.—The British Association—The Beaver River—Tall stories—American politics—A heated argument—A case of self-defence— A mysterious murder—Gamblers and toughs—‘ Rolling ”’”— Our long hours—Unrest among the navvies—A_ strike— The rebellion in the north west—Urgent appeals—I warn the strikers—A difficult arrest—Strong measures— A riot averted—Peace restored—The half-breeds’ grievances—Louis Riel again—Danger of an Indian outbreak— Outrages by the half-breeds—The Prince Albert Volunteers —Duck Lake—Troops hurried west—General Middleton’s ord2rs—The work of the Mountéd Police—Unfounded attacks in the press ‘ i ; . : : :

CHAPTER XII Alarm at Calgary—Major General Strange—I join his force

The

Steele’s scouts—Big Bear’s band—We march from Calgary— General Strange’s plans—His way with obstruction— Rev. George Mackay—Edmonton—The F rog Lake massacre —fort Pitt’s danger—The fort abandoned—We follow Big Bear—A brush with the enemy—The Indians retire— Pursuit—A sharp encounter—An offer to the Indians— General Middleton’s neglect—The chance of a life-time— New country—Official ineptitude—The release of the prisoners—The end of the campaign—The commanders’ tributes—Unrecognized merit—Red tape—Bull Dog Kelly —A mystery solved—Trouble with the B.C. authorities— A magisterial squabble—Colonel Macleod as peacemaker— Mr. Donald Smith drives the last spike of the C.P.R.—A pleasure trip—Back to the plains : : : .

CHAPTER XIII prairies again—Battleford—The trial of the Frog Lake murderers—The new Indian agent—A popular appointment —Church-going in the force—An “ offertory ’—Our new commissioner—The training of the force—The north west rebellion medals—Farcical awards—lI am transferred to the south west—A hard winter—The chinook at last— The Kootenay district—Chief Isadore—Colonel Baker— Straightforwardness of the Indians—The Indian Reserves

Commission—The Kootenay character—Discipline among the Indians—More trouble with Chief Isadore—A satisfactory settlement—Sports—Some good performances— Chief Isadore’s tribute to the force—Back to Macleod— The commissioner’s report—The work of the force—lIts efficiency——Prairie fires—‘‘ Neck-tie socials ”

CHAPTER XIV Indian depredations—The young braves—An arrest oppesed

Th fa”)

The police and the Indians—The Governor General’s tour— A display of Indian horsemanship—My marriage—A visit to the United States—The New York police—An interview with Sir John Macdonald—The capacity of Southern Alberta—The Mormon settlement at Cardston—Organization and customs—Social life at Macleod—Cowboy sports— A wonderful feat of horsemanship—An exciting drive— Alarming experiences—Christmas in the west—Changes in the territory—Death of Lt.-Col. Macleod—A loss to the Dominion—A distinguished career—Another sad loss— Jerry Potts—A faithful servant and an unequalled guide— His influence with the Indians—A tedious hunt—‘‘ Bad Young Man’”—Almost trapped—Clues—The pursuit— The pursuers defied—Captured at last—Wild stories in the press—The Diamond Jubilee—The N.W.M.P. contingent

Chapter XV

Mounted Police in the Yukon territory—The gold discovery in Bonanza Creek—The gold rush—Mr. William Ogilvie— I am sent to the Yukon—A dangerous voyage—We reach Skagway—The Chilkoot Pass—The state of Skagway— Soapy Smith and his gang—Sheep camp—Gamblers and swindlers—Awful weather—A customs post established— A strenuous life—Our varied duties—Interesting visitors— Jack Crawford—Wild Bill and some of his exploits—Good Samaritans—Fatal avalanches—We are reinforced—Conditions at Dawson—The Queen’s birthday celebrations— The great trek to Dawson—Miles Canyon—A serious accident—We take charge—A motley fleet—Dangerous duty— American extortion—A narrow escape—An adventurous lady—A friend in need . : ;

CHAVIER OAV 1

I am honoured by the government—Gold claims at Atlin Lake—

Mr. Ogilvie appointed commissioner—Our quarters at

Xili

PAGE ae CONTENTS

PAGB Dawson—Our force increased—Dawson City—Typhoid and scurvy—The Board of Health—Methods of raising money—A busy day—The mails—The utility of the force— Foreigners in the Yukon—A “scoop” thwarted—A distressed damsel—Hard labour on the wood pile—The criminal classes—Gold mining in the winter—Heavy work—A cosmopolitan population—Dr. Good kept busy— A “natural born colonel”—The new royalty system— Changes in the force—I leave the Yukon—My work in the territory—A hearty send-off—An ingenious expedient— Skagway changed—The end of Soapy Smith—Home again— Montreal—The beginning of the South African war . : 317

Chapter XVII

The Canadian Mounted Rifles—The Royal Canadian Dragoons— Strathcona’s Horse—Recruiting—An offer from Arizona— The corps complete—A farewell banquet—We sail for South Africa—A letter from Lord Strathcona—Arrival at Cape Town—Our first job—Kosi Bay—tThe plan miscarries—We join General Buller—A reinforcement from Canada—Our general utility—Sir Redvers Buller—White flag incidents—Slanders on the corps—Looting—We join General French’s column—Lord Dundonald—Pretoria—A tribute to the corps—Varied duties—Major General Baden- Powell—Our __recall—Lord_ _Kitchener’s tribute—More slanders on the corps—England—A warm welcome— King Edward presents us with colours—Lord Strathcona’s Hospitality—Banquets and sight-seeing—Mr. Joseph Chamberlain—Our last night in England—Our return to Canada —Lord Strathcona’s generosity—Promotions and decorations—The South African Constabulary . . . - 338