The French metropolis. Paris; as seen during the spare hours of a medical student

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Dedication, -- __.-.... m Preface, ...... xi

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Preface

The Letters, comprising the present volume, were written in Paris to the Editor of the Newark Daily Advertiser, in which print they were originally published. The commendation, which they received at the time from the newspaper press throughout the country, has encouraged the issue of them in this form.

Though the writer's residence in the French metropolis was designed for his improvement in medical science, ne deemed it not incompatible with this great object to make himself familiar with the language and characteristics of the great and interesting people, with whom he was sojourning, and whom we ourselves resemble, in some respects, perhaps, more than any other nation. And he felt, in communicating his own impressions to the public, and his friends at home, that he was making the former the participators of his acquisitions — such as they were ; and the latter, of some of his pleasures ; while, at the same time, the evanescent forms of a multitude of objects and events obtained " a habitation and a name" in his memory, by being daguerreotyped in the very moment of their vanishing away forever.

Hastily prepared, as these letters were, immediately on returning from the scenes described, with a body fatigued, and an excited brain, they were evidently unfit for publication, without considerable revision. This

211 PREFACE.

was performed by the author's father, Samuel J. Gardner, Esq., to whos© care and talents is due much of the credit which they have received.

After all, no one must be so unreasonable, as to look for new discoveries in a city, which has become the paradise of travelers, with their hundred eyes and tongues. All, that now remains possible, is to observe the changes of the social kaleidoscope, and copy the old materials, as they group themselves in new attitudes and forms. Such is the characteristic of the book, as its title was intended to express.

Save an occasional explanatory paragraph, the letters are now reprinted from the columns of the newspaper, without change. Much as they would be benefited by a revisal, the author has shrunk from a labor, which would interfere too much with his daily professional duties.

A. K. G.

New- York, November. 1847

Diary at Sea — Arrival at Havre — Custom House Agreeabihties — Ancorville and its Gardens.

At Sea, October 6th,

'T is a week since my departure from New York, and I rejoice to be on deck again, able to write you a few lines, with a horrible nausea, however, still upon me.

Tuesday, 8th October. Lat. 41° 45'.

A fresh attack of sickness sent me below, and, in addition, heavy gales have since rendered it useless to attempt to write. Yesterday morning I saw a very beautiful rainbow, apparently only a few rods from the ship, spanning an entire arch. I remembered the old proverb, but the day proved beautiful notwithstanding. On Friday last, a sudden squall of wind and rain struck and nearly capsized us. Three men at the wheel, the captain being one, could not move it for some moments. All hands were soon on deck, and the sails were rapidly and successfully clewed up, taken in, reefed, &c, and the danger was past ; soon all was fair again. On Sunday night the captain was taken severely sick, and I prescribed for him as well as my dizziness would permit. The wind freshened into a gale and blew much harder than on the day I intended to have sailed. I went on deck several times, and beheld the beauty and grandeur of the waves.

OLD WINE IN NEW BOTTLES.

After the wind had been blowing a gale all day, toward night the sea was literally mountainous ; nor were the waves more remarkable for size, than color. Just as they broke, their dark blue changed to — what shall I call it ? — another shade of blue, perhaps, but so indescribably resplendent and dazzling, that I am convinced the sublime pencil of Titian himself never caught so celestial a tint. To-day a large hawk, perhaps an eagle, lighted for some minutes on our yards, but, as if in derision of our white canvass, soon spread his wings, and sailed around and off.

Several days, you see, are passed since I last wrote, and I cannot perceive that I am any nearer the promised land, than before. The captain jocosely remarks, that we are now about "half seas over," and then — "what then?" as Sterne says. We have an excellent captain, crew and ship.

Sunday, 13th. — How tiresome is a sea life ! I cannot conceive, how a bustling yankee can ever get inured to it.

Tuesday, 2 2d Oct. — While you are imagining me near my port of destination, I am, on the contrary, many hundred miles away, viz: in long. 18° lat. 43° 5'. We have had, since I last wrote, a succession of squally weather and head winds, &c. It seems to me, that there is but one place, to which I desire to go sufficiently to make another voyage, and that is — Home. Methinks I shall have grey hairs before I see France.

" A life on the ocean wave, and a home on the rolling deep," is very good poetry, but to my taste an indifferent sort of housekeeping. " The cloud-kissing waves," and the " foam-crested sea," one may imagine to look very pretty, but — when the waves kiss the clouds, because the latter stoop to the embrace, and when the bowels of the spectator yearn, not with sympathy and tenderness, but sea-sickness — 't is quite a different matter.

Sunday, 27th. — Doubtless you are figuring to yourselves my occupation in Paris ; but, alas, I am yet many a mile distant. The smart S. W. winds, which have blown for the last two days have buoyed us along the Scilly Isles. Last evening the wind

ARRIVAL AT HAVRE.

changed to S. E. by E. which entirely prevents our entering the Channel, and here we lie, beating about with a heavy sea, in the company of several vessels. I have been amused during the last week in watching some porpoises gamboling around our ship ; and this morning was wet through while standing on deck, by the spray from a wave, which broke against our side.

Wednesday. — Last evening spoke a London packet, who will probably report us. The English far-famed fog envelops us closely. A very heavy rolling sea causes a return of sickness.

Saturday evening, Nov. 2d. — Still in the Channel — wind yet ahead — over 33 days out. Last night it blew the heaviest gale we have had yet, and we had a lee shore. Butter, potatoes and fresh provisions long ago gone. Shall we ever get in? The Lord only knows.

Saturday, Nov. 3d. — This is truly a fine day, though it has snowed, and the heavens are filled with clouds, and the weather very cold ; for I have seen land — the pilot is on board — and to-morrow, (what a blessed word to-morrow is !) I shall go on shore ! The St. Nicholas, being one day ahead, has been in port eight days, having entered the Channel just before we were blown off. My fingers and feet are covered with chilblains, and my red nose projects fiercely through my mustache and beard.

Wednesday, 6th. — Havre, where I arrived last evening at five p. m. still retains me. Sunday morning we arrived in the Roads, and there we lay till last evening, as the water was not high enough for the ship to enter the dock gates.

After so long a period spent on ship-board, one could almost find happiness on a barren island. A ship has been compared to many things — I would give it the title of menagerie, for besides whales, porpoises and sharks, you see strange beasts there, which, though inferior in size, do not affect the feelings less. Such is the bed-bug, " the red rover of the sea," and the more agile flea, which always swarm in cotton laden ships. Both are rare " phlebotomizers." The little dark weevil finding his kingdom in the crevices of the ship-bread " taken from him and given to a stranger," flies for his life, as you raise it to your lips. To these one soon becomes accustomed as well as to the rats, who nightly

OLD WINE IN NEW BOTTLES.

open avenues through your clothes to the dainty crumb concealed in some of their folds. Sea- sickness may be enjoyed a fortnight together on your back, and also a sudden translation from the berth to the middle of the cabin floor, as the ship may chance to take a sudden lurch — when they are over.

We must leave these things, however pleasant in the recollection, and observe the ship, as she enters the dock. Sunday morning, we arrived in the Roads, and there we lay till last evening, as the water was not high enough to enter the dock gates. These docks are but large basins of water confined by gates, not differing, except in magnitude, from those of our canals. The tide here rising and falling twenty feet, the rush of water otherwise would leave them exposed to danger from the bottom, when heavily laden, from its shallowness at ebb tide. Into this dock we rushed with all the speed, which a flood tide, a strong wind behind and a stronger swell from the Channel could give us. To the unaccustomed eye, we were in constant danger of running into the pier-head, whose massive buttresses project far into the sea, or the shipping moored along its sides. Fortunately, just as the danger seemed imminent, a hawser, apparently stretched by unknown hands, restrained our headlong course. The quay is crowded with people, whose uncouth garments divert the attention from the imaginary danger.

The pier is the grand promenade for the city ; and ladies, soldiers, peasants — the whole community almost, are gathered there to witness the entrance of two large American ships and other smaller craft. We hastened from the ship to the hotel, fortunately escaping the search by the police, a fate which my trunk suffered most unmercifully the next morning. The numerous soldiery, who throng the city, seem to have little else to do, except poking into trunks and carpet bags, stirring up the dirty clothes, and snuffing every odor, while on the scent for tobacco. The manufacture and sale of this noisome weed are a monopoly of the king, and the search is therefore very severe. Notwithstanding this, three thousand cigars were smuggled ashore in the following ingenious manner. Two carpet bags were obtained similar to one another. Both were carried to the custom house.

ANCORVILLE AND ITS GARDENS.

One contained the greater part, and the other a quarter box only. This last was openly displayed in the month of the bag and the duties promptly paid. Gulled by this stratagem the other was scarcely opened. At a subsequent period, a bearer of despatches to our embassy, covered the boxes with the yellowish paper, tied with red tape, sealed with numerous red wax seals, stamped with the eagle found on a half dollar, and thus passed some thousands of cigars, unquestioned, through the hands of those who did not know that on the American coat of arms, there were no " 50 cents " stamped at the bottom.

I am at Wheeler's Hotel, a very comfortable house, where English is spoken, and have employed myself to-day in traversing the city, and noting its peculiarities ; the women, who are employed in every menial service — scraping the streets — riding the little jackasses, behind two immense panniers, stuffed with all kinds of provisions — the peculiar shaped houses — dark and dirty, frequently seven and eight stories high. Linen bed clothes this season of the year are no addition to the warmth of their elastic beds. Fires are in general use, so cold it is. I shall leave for Rouen by the diligence day after to-morrow, the boat having ceased running. Found an agreeable companion in an English clergyman, who described the theatre to me, and a particular play with great fervor. Saw also this morning a funeral — a priest followed by a boy bearing a pine coffin covered with a black cloth, and a man following, probably the mourner, but who was gazing around with great unconcern. At eight p. m. a band of thirteen drummers marched through the streets, calling the soldiers to their quarters for the night.

The city of Havre contains but little worthy of notice. The church of Notre Dame, the docks and the hospital, are the principal objects of interest. A building for a museum is now erecting. It is made of a soft native stone. The walls are made of the large pieces placed in proper order, but unhewn and almost shapeless. After these are erected, the stone is then worked and pillars are hammered out and ornamented with Corinthian capitals, &c.

The village of Ancorville, separated from the city by a wall and moat, is the residence of the wealthy. It is situated on a

OLD WINE IN NEW BOTTLES.

high bluff, commanding a fine view of the city proper, with the hay and river Seine stretching for several miles. The buildings are much finer than those in the city, though not pleasing to the American eye, accustomed to white houses and green blinds. They are built of half-burned brick, with walls nearly two feet in thickness, and covered with plaster of such a dingy color, that, noticing shavings, &c. around a house, it is difficult to tell, whether they are building a new or repairing an old one. The gardens, however, make up the deficiency. I visited several, one very splendid, belonging to Jeremiah Winslow, a Boston man. Its winding walks were ornamented by the immense ribs and vertebrae of the whale. Even at this late season, it was covered with flowers. Among them was the Bengal rose, which we call the double Dutch, similar to C.'s, growing in great profusion, full of blossoms. It is left out of doors all winter, and blooms ten months in the year. The Laurestinus, too, with its fragrant flowers, resists the frosts of winter, uninjured. They are both frequently in bloom on Christmas. Rhododendrons, Cape Jessamines, are evergreens. The far-famed Holly and Ivy are also abundant. The former has a very rich green leaf, scolloped, bearing on each point a thorn. I also visited a small private green-house, not very showy at present, and quite similar to our own.

The soldiers stationed here number three hundred, and constitute the most striking objects of notice. They officiate as sentries, police, and custom house officers. Their uniform is in horrible taste. The only excuse for it is its alleged cheapness. They look, as if, roused from their slumbers by a fire in their own dwelling, they had seized the first clothing near them, and appear in scarlet flannel drawers, but partially concealed by a blue surtout. Such coat-tails must certainly impede locomotion.

The antiquarian may hasten to see the old tower, so conspicuous as we enter, which the guide books say was the place where Mazarin confined the princes of Conde and Conti, and where Francis I. was entertained by the early inhabitants. He may pore over the falling stones, and pick up a rusty nail for a souvenir ; — my

THE THEATRE— LA DAME BLANCHE.

taste seeks rather for the living and breathing works of the present, than the dilapidated monuments of the past.

After two days' experience, I find that I have less difficultyeach day in speaking the little French I have occasion for. I think I shall soon acquire it. To-morrow I shall visit the Hospital, and at five dine with Mr. R. E., brother of G. B. E., of Boston, to whom I had a letter, directed to Paris, whence he has lately arrived. You would be amused to see me walking about the streets, ever and anon consulting a small dictionary for aid in understanding some notice at the corners ; or, when asking the way, stopping to look out a word in the midst of my speech. The horses are of the large Normandy breed, much larger than the Pennsylvania horse ; I saw one to-day going apparently with much ease, drawing on a truck, like those at Boston, two hogsheads of molasses and five boxes of sugar, a half of which in Boston is a load for two.

11 o'clock. — I have just returned from the theatre, the old one was burnt, and this has been open but a fortnight ; I therefore saw it in all its freshness. It is said to be a tasteful building, though small. " They did " the Opera of La Dame Blanche, with an orchestra of thirty-three instruments, played finely. The singing was not so good as I expected. I have postponed my departure for Rouen till Saturday morning, where I shall remain for three or four days, and then — for Paris.

II. Travelling in France — Rouen — Paris

Leaving Havre, as I told you, I embarked for Rouen, in the far-famed Diligence, which is associated with so many tales of joy and sorrow. A queer vehicle it is, I assure you, propelled sometimes by five horses, sometimes by nine, and I do not despair, after being here a few days more, of finding as many as often have the honor of drawing, in my own dear country, some symbol of a great principle on our grand procession fetes. The cattle I am now speaking of, however, as far as I can see, have the task of transporting only a quantity of heavy luggage and sundry fat and lean people, as the case may be. For this purpose, five are the least number on the Diligences at a time ; two at "the wheel," and three abreast, "on lead." The next additional horse goes on the wheel. The next three ahead of all ; these are always governed by a postilion. With you, the driver has a rein for every beast, you know ; but here, there are never more than four reins, and these are attached to the outer horses. A postilion sometimes rides on the "near leader." But the outfit is not yet complete. As the soldier is omnipresent in France? one rides, of course, on the banquette, which is a top with a covering like a chaise. An imposing office this, for he pays each driver his daily stipend of twenty-five cents, and shouts to the passengers that intercept the way, with a stentorian voice, who all turn out to make room for the coming avalanche. The inside is divided into three apartments, variously furnished. More room is allowed in some than in others, and the price is proportionate. This is my introduction to the principle of graduation, which is by no means offensive, while submission to it is voluntary, as it is here and on the railways. Accordingly, I ascended to the ban-

ROUEN— THE CATHEDRAL.

quette to obtain the best view of the rich scenery, that is spread out on every side. It affords a complete shelter from the weather, and the glass windows, which can be dropped in front, open to the view of the stranger the country through which we are passing. It is the second or third division in point of expense. The prospect is exceedingly striking. Every object wears the air of novelty — the fertile fields, so exquisitely green — the thatched cottage — the flocks of corbeau, or raven, differing, I think, from our crow in tameness as well as appearance. Occasionally, a hare is seen scudding along, or an old and venerable church, heavenward pointing its grey spire. The driver jabbers to his horses perpetually, keeps his immense whip in constant use, making the narrow streets of the cities echo with its loud explosions.

As we approached Rouen, the most conspicuous objects were the lofty towers and spires of the Cathedral, one of the most celebrated in the world, by some supposed to be founded by William the Conqueror. The first mention of this city is made by Ptolemy, who lived in the second century. It is doubtful whether its population of a hundred thousand is greater now than then ; its character, however, has changed. Then, it was inhabited by a people whose name has become a by-word — the ancient Goths ; now, its numerous churches proclaim it a Christian nation.

No person who is travelling for pleasure, fails to spend several days in the examination of the curiosities of this old town. The first among these, is the before-mentioned cathedral, commenced in the XHIth century, and finished in the XVIth. I wish I could portray the beauty and grandeur of this building, four hundred and fifty feet long, one hundred and ten wide, and to the top of the lanthorn, from the inside, two hundred feet.

My first impressions were received by a visit made there in the nio-ht. The outside was not visible in the darkness, and the interior, partially lighted by the votive tapers burning at the shrines of saints, lost none of its grandeur and solemnity. There were not more than twenty persons present in this immense building. All was still, save the voice of a priest in one of the distant chapels, and the sighs and the sobs of a penitent worshipper near me. A religion, which draws from their comfortable dwellings so many persons through the rainy streets, to spend an hour or more in the cold damps of a gloomy church, cannot but deeply impress one with a feeling of respect, which I fear is too rarely felt by the Protestant for the Catholic faith.

But it was necessary to have a bright day to see in perfection the grandeur of this edifice. One hundred and thirty windows of stained glass to light it, represent the occurrences in the life of our Saviour, the Apostle sand " holy men made perfect," — one window sometimes containing an entire scene, such as the crucifixion of our Saviour between the two thieves, for example, and sometimes many scenes in the life of an individual, much smaller of course. The perfect expression of these pictures exceeded anything I had ever imagined. I witnessed the grand mass, in which the archbishop officiated.

Among other ornaments, there is a silver lamp of large size, weighing forty marks, before the altar — the gift of the city — a thank-offering for the cessation of the plague in 1637. Here, in the Chapel of the Virgin, is the statue which formerly decorated the tomb of the celebrated Cceur de Lion, which had long been buried. But on the 30th of July, 1838, searches were made for it, and, guided by historical traditions, it was happily discovered. It is hewn out of a single block of freestone, and is six and a half feet long. It represents King Richard in a recumbent position, his head supported by a square cushion, wearing a crown encircled with precious stones ; his feet are supported by a crouching lion. On his left hand was a sceptre, of which we only see the remains ; the right has been destroyed. The prince's mantle descends nearly to his ancle in wide folds. It is over a tunic which reaches up to the neck, and is bound round the body by an embroidered belt. The researches, continued on the following day, discovered the heart of Richard, enclosed in a double box of lead with the following inscription :

ROUEN— PUBLIC LIBRARY. 11

Near this, are statues of the husband of Diana of Poictiers, and of the cardinals of Amboise. Pillars, sculptures, galleries, bas-reliefs, statues, and paintings, are without number. The outside is not deficient in interest. Three lofty towers ornament it, the tallest of which, destroyed by fire in 1822, is being replaced, at an expense of $100,000, by one of iron. It will weigh 1,200,000 lbs., and will be four hundred and thirty-six feet high — thirteen feet less than the loftiest pyramid of Egypt.

Leaving now this magnificent cathedral, of which it is impossible to give an adequate description, we will follow the guide — > who earns his dollar by conducting us, by the nearest route through the city, to the various places of note, and there giving his stereotyped descriptions — to the churches of St. Ouen, (which contains a window of colored glass unsurpassed in the world,) St. Maclou, St. Patrice, and many others of great beauty. Many of the beautiful churches are no longer used for religious services — one is a stable, and another a storehouse. Their lofty domes and elegant carvings still remain, though mutilated. In many of the others, the broken windows are replaced by modern manufactures of very inferior merit.

It is impossible in the space I have allotted for the hasty description of Rouen, even to attempt an enumeration of the objects of interest in this city, celebrated as the birth place of Corneille, Fontenelle, Boieldieu, the composer, and many others ; some of whose statues, as well as that of Joan of Arc, who was here burnt as a witch, ornament its public squares. The town hall contains a collection of portraits, and a public library enriched with manuscripts of distinguished beauty. One of these, the famous illuminated Gradual or Music Book, by Daniel d'Aubonne, richly repays the time, and money (one franc) expended in seeing it. It contains more than two hundred vignettes, and occupied in its construction thirty years of the life of its monkish author. It is not only a monument of devotion and perseverance, but a specimen of writing and pen embellishment unequalled.

On returning to dinner, tired and cloyed with endless novelties, galleries of pictures and statues, views of the city from various points, carved walls and doors, large bells, &c, I fell into the company of some ladies from Brighton, in England, who, after inquiring my country, made me the compliment of speaking English very well, which I politely returned by saying, that they conversed in good American ; at which they appeared not a little puzzled. Happening to observe three quarter dollars, (fortunately they were not eagles,) which I had, they begged them of me, as curiosities, and placed them among some Catholic communion wafers, which they had obtained during the day. When they get home they will doubtless all figure advantageously in their cabinet of choice articles of virtu, collected in their travels.

On the 11th of November I quitted Rouen, taking the cars for Paris. What a magical agent is money ! Two families, for instance, live side by side for years. One of them is worth a million, the other not a thousand. A person, who did not know the world, would innocently imagine, that these two families were neighbors. There cannot be a greater mistake ; it is nothing but an optical illusion, I assure you, sir. The difference of their fortunes has rolled an ocean between them, so that these two families actually pass their lives without being at all aware even of the existence of one another.

A freak of money, somewhat similar, though by no means so extraordinary, occurred at the cars for Paris. There are two classes of them at least, and probably more. The first class is designed to accommodate eight only, with seats lined with velvet, and fitted up in other respects to correspond. The second class is equally spacious, but lined with linen, admitting ten persons with abundance of room for all. The price paid for seats in the former was but a trifle more than in the others ; yet the effect of that little more upon the passengers was wonderful. Among them there was an English gentleman, and two daughters, who had, on the present excursion, for the first time in their lives left their native island. Under the powerful operation of their national proclivity, they assumed the velvet cushions of course. A party of gentlemen and ladies, also English, of equal rank and fashion, happened to be there too on their return from St. Petersburgh. Having traveled over the whole of Europe, they had by this time acquired a tolerable knowledge of " matters

PALACE OF LUXEMBOURG. 13

and things," and accordingly chose the cars of the second class. They evidently felt no preference for velvet over linen to sit upon for an hour or two. Indeed, I find that the intelligent, though wealthy, do by no means invariably manifest a preference for what is of the highest price, on that account alone. But the effect of this procedure of the experienced travellers upon the gentleman with the two daughters was very amusing. Doubtless, owing to the cause to which I have alluded, the already turnedup noses of the two daughters now turned up to an elevation, that I had not before believed to be possible. But how extreme was their mortification, when they discovered on our arrival at Paris, that the distinction in the cars was of the most transitory nature, for we all went together from the depot in the same omnibus to the same hotel, and dined 'at the same table. This was the hotel Mirabeau, situated in the Rue de la Paix, which is very central.

As we approached this great capital, nobody was needed to tell us of our progress ; the rapidly augmenting charges were abundantly sufficient to give information. And the bills, to which I am now subjected daily, leave me not in the least doubt whatever of my safe and happy arrival in the modern Athens. It is a great mistake, that everything is cheaper here than in the United States. Clothing, especially cotton, is higher, and woolen also. Linen is cheaper, but not so much so as in England.