Florida and the game water-birds of the Atlantic coast and the lakes of the United States : with a full account of the sporting along our sea-shores and inland waters, and remarks on breech-loaders and hammerless guns

Front matter

FOR THE PEOPLE

FOR EDVCATION

FOR SCIENCE

Part Ii.— The Game Avater-birds

Chapter I.— Game of Ancient and Modern Days.— Its Protection and Importance. — The proper Shooting Seasons.— The Impolicy of Using Batteries and Pivot^Guns 139

Chapter II.— Guns and Gunnery.— Breech-loaders compared with Muzzle-loaders.— All the Late Improvements in Breech-loaders.— Hammerless Guns l.>9

Chapter III.— Bay-snipe Shooting.— The Birds, their Habits, Peculiarities, and places of Kesort.- Stools and Whistles.— Dress and Implements appropriate tc their pursuit.— Their Names and Mode of Capture 185

Chapter IV.— The New Jersey Coast.— Jersey Girls and their pleasant ways.— The peculiarities of Bay-snipe further elucidated.—Mosquitoes rampant.— Good Shooting and " Fancy " Sport.— Shipwrecks and Ghosts 219

Chapter Y.— Bay-Birds. Particular Descriptions and Scientific Characteristics.— A Complete Account of each Variety 261

Chapter VI.— Montauk Point.— American Golden Plover or Frost- Bird.— A True Story of Three Thousand in a Flock. — Lester's Tavern.— Good Eating, Fine Fishing, and Splendid Shooting.— The Nepeague Beach 301

Chapter VII.— Rail and Rail-Shooting.— Seasons, Localities, and Incidents of Sport.— Use of Breech-loader or Muzzle-loader.— Equipment 313

Chapter V III.— Wild-Fowl Shooting.— General Directions, from Boats, Blinds, or Batteries.— Retrievers from Baltimore and Newfoundland.— Western Sport.— Equipment 328

Chapter IX.— Duck-Shooting on the Inland Lakes.— The Club House.— Practical Views of Practical Men.— Moral Tales.- A Day's Fishing.— The Closing Scenes 344

Chapter X.— Suggestions to Sportsmen.— A Definition of the Terra. —Crack Shots.— The Art of Shooting.— The Art of not Shooting. 398

Chapter XL— Directions for Building a Battery 415

FLORIDA.

CHAPTER I.

THE INLAND PASSAGE.

Florida— so named by its discoverers from the abundance, beauty and fragrance of its flowers. The Land of Flowers — what a beautiful sentiment. Alas, it was never called anything of the sort. Land happening to be first seen by the brave and sturdy warrior but not imaginative linguist, Juan Ponce de Leon, on Palm Sunday, liis discovery was called, with due and Catholic reverence, after the day and not after any abundance of flowers, which were probably not abundant on the sand spit where he planted his intrusive feet. But no matter about the origin of the term, the epithet is more than justified, and the Peninsular State is not only glorious in the endless beauty and variety of its flowers — till in good old English it might be termed one huge nosegay — but it is magnificent in the grandeur and orig-inality of its foliage. The jessamine climbs above the deep swamps and lights up their darkness with its yellow stars ; the magnolia towers in the open upland a pyramid of vestal splendor ; the cabbage palmetto waves its huge fan-shaped leaves, seven feet long, like great green hands, and the moss hangs and sways and covers the bare limbs with its ragged clothing.

To the rough, practical Northern mind, Florida

10 THE IKLAHB PASSAGE.

is a, land of dreams, a strange country full of surprises, an intangible sort of a j^lace, where at first nothing is believed to be real and where finally eyerything is considered to be possible. When the visitor first arrives he cannot be convinced that the cows feed under water ; before he leaves he is walling to concede that alligators may live on chestnuts. The animals and birds are as queer and unnatural as the herbage, or as a climate which furnishes strawberries, green peas, shad, and roses at Christmas. There is the Limpkin, the pursuit of which reminds one of hunting the Snark. You are in continual terror of catching the Boojum. It is a bird about the size of a fish-hawk, but it roars like a lion and screeches like a wild-cat, although it occasionally whistles like a canary. It has a bill like that of a curlew, adapted to probing in the sand, and yet it sits on trees as though it were a woodpecker. It is conversational and talks to you in a friendly way during daytime, but at night it harrows up your soul and makes your blood run cold with the fearful noises it utters. If you hear any charming note or awful sound, any pretty song or terrifying scream, and ask a native Floridian, with pleased or trembling tongue, '*What is that?" he will calmly answer, "That? that is a Limpkin." There are no dangerous animals in Florida, only a few of Eve's old enemies, and the sportsman is safer in the woods at night under the moss-covered trees and on his moss-constructed mattress than in his bed in the family mansion on Fifth avenue. If he hears any unearthly noises, any soul-curdling shrieks, he can turn to sleep again with the comfortable assurance "that it is only a Limpkin."

To the sportsman it is needless to say that Florida, when properly investigated, is a Paradise. Birds and fish and game are only too plentiful, till it has become a land of shameful slaughter. The brute with a gun slays the less brutish animal for the mere pleasure of murder when he cannot get, much less use, what he kills, till on most of the pleasure steamers shooting has been prohibited ; while the idiot with the rod fills his boat with splendid fish that rot in the hot sun and have to be thrown back, putrefying, into the water from which his undisciplined passion hauled them. Sportsman should not come to this land of promise and performance unless they can control their instincts, for fear that they should degenerate into mere killers. In truth, the excess of abundance takes away the keener zest of sport, which is largely due to the difficulties that surround success. But for the ordinary inhabitant of the rugged North, the quaintness of this border land of the equator has an immense charm, while to the invalid the pure, dry, warm air of both winter and summer brings balm and health. The feeble and sickly, especially the consumptive, should seek Florida, for to them it offers the fabled springs of perennial youth, which Ponce de Leon sought more coarsely in vain. To the seeker after amusement, to the man and woman of leisure, who wish to improve as well as enjoy themselves, it is a very wonder-

12 THE IJn^LAKD passage.

land of delight. It has a store of novelties which are absolutely exhaustless, and tracts of interesting country which, w^hile perfectly accessible, have never even been explored.

To enjoy Florida, however, one must seek it aright. If the visitor follows the beaten track, he will see the beaten things — well beaten by many vulgar footsteps. If he takes the steamers and lives at the hotels, he will make quick trips and have good accommodations. If he wants originality he must pursue original methods. There are many ways of reaching this floral El Dorado — the ocean steamer will carry you to Savannah, whence the steamboat will transport you through byways and inside cuts to Jacksonville, or the railroad will drag and hurl you through dust and dirt by day and night at headlong pace from the St. Lawrence to the Gulf. But if you want to enjoy Florida, if you want to go where no man has gone, and see what no eye has seen, and handle what no hand has touched, then go there in a yacht — in a small yacht, just as small and of as light draft of water as will accommodate comfortably the party, that must be composed of individuals sufficiently accustomed to one another to be sure they can live together for tliree months without quarrelling. Then, indeed, will you learn what Florida is, will possess its charms in close embrace and have experiences and pleasures never to be forgotten and not otherwise to be obtained. How is this to be done, you may ask, and the purpose of this chapter is to tell you exactly how.

A wealthy magnate may go in a big yacht to Florida, give good dinners aboard and live in grandeur and luxury, and he will see about as much — not quite — as if he had left his yacht at home ; or the hastyplate-of-soup man may take a little steam launch and stave her in on the first snag or oyster rock he runs her against. But if the traveller and his friends hire or buy a light-draught sailing vessel, they will require more time, but they can go almost everywhere and see absolutely everything. It was just such a vessel that I had built for use in the shoal Great South Bay of Long Island — a sharpie, to give its nautical appellation — of sixty feet length and fifteen beam, with two state-rooms, a cabin having four comfortable berths and over six feet head-room, and a cuddy for the men and for cooking, although we had an auxiliary cook stove in the cabin. This vessel was intended to carry six passengers and two men ; but boats of seventeen feet length and a catamaran have safely made the j^assage to the St. John's River and are there now, so that a much smaller craft would do. The advantage of the sharpie style of construction was that the yacht only drew two feet of water, and as I proposed to run entirely by chart, and not to use the services of a pilot, this was an inestimable advantage. We could have braved the battle and the breeze of the Atlantic and gone outside all the way, but those who know most of the ocean care least to have to do with it unless equipped on the most thorough basis to encounter its buffets. As an old sea captain said \o me : — ^^AVlien I go to

14 THE IXLAND PASSAGE.

sea I want to go in a steamer, and the biggest and strongest steamer at that." Moreover, the inside route is much the more interesting ; there is nothing very novel about the sea but the danger of it, whereas the bays, creeks, canals and rivers furnish a fresh and continually changing panorama. There is a frequent encounter with strange people, with vessels of queer rigs and builds, an alternation of scenery, the arrival at and departure from cities, the chance to occasionally kill a bird or catch a mess of fish — something new happening every day. At sea there is the ocean — a great deal of ocean — and nothing else.

There exists a complete inside route from Xew York to the St. John's Eiver, with the exception of about a hundred miles south of Beaufort, North Carolina, and on this stretch there are many accessible inlets only a few miles apart, so that no vessel need be caught ont overnight or can fail to make a safe harl)or in case of necessity. The charts are nearly complete and enable a person of ordinary intelligence, in a vessel drawing not over four feet of water, to be entirely independent of pilots. The lighter the draught, however, the better, and I should not advise the use of any boat which requires more than three feet to float in, two feet being greatly preferable.

Do not start for the South before the lirst day of November unless you wish to encounter a multiplicity, variety and intensity of fever that would be the delio:ht of the medical profession. Until frost comes, there is wiiitiiig for you a clioice between fever and ague, intermittent, remittent, typhoid, putrid, break-bone, yellow, and cVerujue fevers, each of which, when 3^ou have it, seems a little worse than all the others until you have one of them also, an event which is very likely to happen, when you discover that your first conclusions were erroneous. Then before you start get good and ready. Look over your fishing tackle ; be sure you have cartridges enough, and load them all with powder, but not shot, so as to avoid unpleasant explosions. Use your five hundred pounds of shot for ballast.

Lay in a tub of Northern butter and some white potatoes, but do not imagine you are going to a land of barbarism. You can get better hams, better hard-tack, and as good and cheap canned goods in Norfolk as you can in New York. Fresh eggs are to be had everywhere, turkeys and chickens are fair, and are sold in market cleaned, and if Southern beef is tough it has a peculiar game flavor which is very agreeable. Take in a good supply of coal; use it for ballast if there is no other place to ctow it, for you may get frozen in during a cold spell, and will surely want plenty of extraneous warmth before you reach the '^'^ Sunny South." Then when you are ready, sail up Raritan Bay, get a tow through the Raritan and Delaware Bay Canal, and even across to Delaware City if you please, and so across to the Chesapeake Bay, where your journey may be said really to commence, for thenceforth you will have to rely on your sails and your brains.

your motiye power and your charts. There are very thorough and complete charts of the Chesapeake, six in number, carrying you the entire way to Norfolk and insuring you a good and safe harbor whenever you need it. Do not forget that this is a big sheet of water, and that you are on a pleasure trip, and will be much more comfortable if at anchor during the night. Besides, there is time enough; you have all winter before you, as you cannot get back until spring if you wanted to, now that Jack Frost is about shutting the gates. From Norfolk you can take a tow through the Albemarle and Chesapeake Canal or not, as you jDlease; much better not if you happen to have a good northerly wind, as there is only one lock, and you can make the distance more pleasantly and safely under sail. If your vessel draws less than three feet, you leave the canal when you reach North Landing Eiver, of which there is a chart, and you go down through Currituck Sound by Van Slyck's Landing, and thence through the Narrows. Beyond that for some distance, as the chart says, you *^can only carry three feet of water, and that with difficulty." If your vessel is of greater draught, you must take the extension of the canal which carries you to North River, from which point there is jilenty of water all the way. You can get a condensed chart from the Albemarle and Chesapeake Canal Company, which will give you a general idea of the route from Norfolk to Smithville, and which will be found very useful. But the Government charts

ItHE iNLAls^t) PASSAGE. 17

of Pamlico Sound, which wore completed in the fall of 1883, should by all means be taken also, as they are simply invaluable in case of storm and the necessity of seeking harbor unexpectedly. Government chart No. 40 or 140 (both numbers are used) will give you Currituck Sound from just above Van Slyck's, and also North River from the mouth of the canal, all that is necessary of Albemarle Sound, Croatan and Roanoke Sounds, either of which you may take, and the magnetic courses and distances to steer by as far south as Roanoke Marshes Light. The post office at Van Slyck's Landing is called Poplar Branch Post Office, Currituck County, N. C, and you can get your letters and coarse supplies there, but no bread. The next good harbor is Kitty Hawk, where there is also a store and post office. If you go through Roanoke Sound, remember that below Shallowbag Bay the channel runs close along shore, closer than it seems on the chart. You will have to feel your way carefully across below Broad Creek. There is plenty of water if you find it, but it is not easy to find. From the southerly end of Roanoke Island to Long Shoal Light the course is south by west; from Roanoke Marslies Light it is south, one half west. You can go a mile inside of this light, but not further, as the shoal beyond has not a foot of water on it. Just north of this light is Stumpy Point Bay, where you can make a good harbor, carrying clear inside four feet of water. From Long Shoal Light the course is south-west to a buoy on Bluff

18 THE I]!q-LAi^D PASSAGE.

Shoal; but as there is seven feet of water on the shoal, accuracy is not necessary, and the same course continued will take you near Royal Shoal, which is easily made out, as there are two lights on it. From this the course is south by west to Harbor Island light, at the entrance of Core Sound. This light is abandoned and is falling down, but during the day the building is visible a long dis; tance. If you can get a free wind, you can make the run from Long Shoal to Harbor Island in a day, provided you get under way early, which every sensible yachtsman is careful to do. If not, you must hug the main shore and look out, as there are many shoals and no tide to help you off if you get aground. The waters are salt and only moved by the wind; and as Pamlico Sound is a miniature ocean and gets up a big sea, it is well to be careful. If you are caught near Royal Shoal, unless you are acquainted with the channels, steer for the beach, where you can get holding ground if not much of a harbor. The charts of Pamlico Sound are Nos. 42, 43, and 44.

There is a good chart of Core Sound, which is shallow but well staked out, the stakes having hands on them to show on which side is the best water. You can carry two feet of water close along the shore from the buoy off the middle marshes, just west of Harker's Island into Beaufort, but the main channel is more to the southward and runs to the point of Shackleford Banks. Then you go up Bulkhead Channel, keep along the north shore of Town

THE t>^LAKD PASSAGE. 19

Marsh a hundred rods, and then northeast and keep the lead going to Beaufort, N. C. From here you can either sail through Bogue Sound, of whioh there is no chart, or go directly to sea. As the land trends westward, it makes a lee even from a north-easter and is as safe as any outside sailing can be.

There is a chart of Beaufort, N. C, which takes you a few miles into Bogue Sound, but that is all. South of Bogue Inlet, New Tojosail Inlet is one of the best, then Masonboro, and from either of these a good wind will carry you past Cape Fear, the only spot you have to dread and where you must manage not to get caught. There is a good chart of Cape Fear, but the rule of the local pilots is to folloAV the eighteen-foot shoal down till you open Fort Caswell by the main Light on Bald Head, and then steer straight for the Fort, wiiich w^ill give you six feet of water up to the beach. But remember, there is shoal water outside of you, and you must look out for breakers. The next harbor is Little River Inlet, and then comes Winyah Bay, of which there is a chart, and then Bull's Bay, of which also you can get a chart.

From Bull's Bay it is inside w^ork and a shoal, but not a difficult passage, to Charleston Harbor. Of this there is no chart yet printed, and it ought to be run, if possible, in a tide which Avill help at both ends by running up from Bull's Bay and down into Charleston Harbor. You come out at the cove near Fort Moultrie where it is well to stop, as Charleston Harbor is a largo place in rough weather for small

20 THE IKLAND PASSAGE.

boats. Here you begin on Coast Chart No. 54 (or 154). Go up the Ashley River till St. Michael's Church (which has the whitest spire) opens to the north of the rice mills, and steer into Wappoo Cut, which lies just south of some j^rominent buildings on a point on the left shore. It will carry you without trouble into the Stono Eiver. Here the chart fails you, you ascend the Stono, keeping a westerly course past the first branch to the north which heads toward a railroad in full view. When a large mill on the north side is reached a lead branches to the south. This must be avoided, and a mill with a tower will soon be reached. This is on Wadmelaw River, where the chart resumes its proper vocation. Thence across the North Edisto, the Dawho River, thence into the South Edisto, around Jehossee, but not through Wall's Cut, which the natives assured me was not open. Just at the south j^oint of Jehossee Island, Mosquito Creek enters the South Edisto ; take the westerly lead where they branch just inside the mouth, and then through Bull's Cut into the Ashepoo ; down the Ashepoo and across St. Helena Sound and either up the Coosaw and past Beaufort, S. C. The name of the town being pronounced Bufort, which is about as short as any route, or across the Sound to Harbor River and through it and Story and Station Creeks into Port Royal Sound. This is a big place again and uncomfortable at night in a storm with a heavy tide and sea. You now take Coast Chart No. 55 (or 155). There is a special chart of the route from St. Helena to

Port Royal, but it is not necessary. You steer nearly west from the buoys off the mouth of Station Creek to Bobee's Island at the mouth of Skull Creek. There is an oyster rock in the middle of Skull Creek where it makes its first bend to the southeast, and this is the only danger before reaching Calibogue Sound. In crossing Tybee roads, keep well out to Red Buoy No. 2, whether you go directly south or turn north to visit Savannah. If the latter, go by the Light Beacon and to the westward of it, if the former, take Lazaretto Creek into Tybee River and Warsaw Sound. Keep well out by the buoys again and head for Romerly Marsh Creek.

If you have gone to Savannah, continue your journey by the way of Wilmington River to the same place, unless your boat is small enough to pole easily, in which case you can go through Skiddaway Narrows. Romerly Marsh and Adams Creeks will bring you into Vernon River, when you steer for Hell Gate, between Little Don Island and Raccoon Key. If you have come through Skiddaway and down the Burnside and Vernon Rivers, you can go inside of Little Don Island. Here you use chart No. 56 (or 156). Cross the Ogeechee River, and follow up the west bank to Florida Passage, through it and Bear River to St. Catharine's Sound, across it and up Newport River to Johnson's Creek ; thence down the South Newport to Sapelo Sound.

There is good fishing in Barbour's River, just above where the words *^ Barbour's Island" are on the chart. Continue across Sapelo Sound and into

22 THE IKLAXD PASSAGE.

Mud Eiver ; take the middle of this to Xew Teakettle Creek, which will bring you into Doboy Sound. Keep to the north of Doboy town, which is a prominent object on the flat meadows. Here chart No. 57 (or 157) begins, and you go from Duboy straight through Little Mud Eiyer and the same course across Altamaha Sound ; then follow the channel northwesterly into Buttermilk Sound ; then either through Mackay's or Frederica Elvers, as the wind best serves, into St. Simon's Sound. Here the water is deeper and you can go directly across from the black buoy No. 7 to the black buoy at the mouth of Jekyls Creek. There are two mouths to this creek. Take the easterly one and run straight from the ranges on the point. Follow across Jekyls and St. Andrew's Sounds up Cumberland Eiver. At its head waters there are some islands ; the channel is from a stake on shore to the west of the eastermost island, then by ranges on the 2:>oint, which carry you past a little island with ranges which give you the course south. Use the lead here. Thence down Cumberland Sound by Dungeness, formerly the property of Gen. Nathaniel Green, and which is much visited by tourist parties, across the St. Mary's Eiver and up the Amelia to Fernandina. Here chart No. 58 (or 158) begins. From the Amelia Eiver you go to Kingley's Creek past two drawbridges. The railroad bridge is out of order and will not open square with the bulkhead. Be careful here, as several accidents have happened and the tide runs strong. Continue across Nassau Sound

THE li^LANJJ PASSAGE. 23

to Sawpit Creok, at the mouth of wliich there is a black buoy not laid down on the chart. Keei^ to the southward of this buoy and run on through Gunnison's Cut, wliich you will recognize by two palmetto trees that look like gate-posts at a distance. Down Fort George River to the Sisters Creek and thence to the St. John's River where you will find a dock — a watermark not to be forgotten on your return trip. There are three charts of the St. John's, which give it in full from its mouth to Lake Harney ; the 23oints to remember are to cross from Hannah Mills Creek to St. John's Bluff, and thence back again to Clapboard Creek, whence you follow up the north shore, keeping it as far as Dame Point close aboard. Beyond this you can have no trouble, as the St. John's has but one or two shoals where there is less than six feet of water, and it is well marked out with buoys and beacons.

If this description sounds a little tedious to the reader, he will not think it so wlien he makes the trip. If you want a pilot for any part of the route, one can be had by applying to Captain Coste, of the Lighthouse Service at Charleston ; but there are few persons who know w'hatl have herein recorded, and

none of those will tell. We have had a long trip

for long as it has been on paper, it has been longer in reality. Two weeks from New York to Beaufort, N. C. ; ten days thence to Charleston, and ten more to Jacksonville may be required, unless the traveller is one of those lucky fellows wdio always have a free wind through life. So he may want to rest, have liis clothes washed, dress up in *' a boiled shirt'' for a change, and revive the fact that he is one of the aristocracy, not an ordinary seaman. He will soon tire of civilization, however, and long for the pleasures of the chase. Then let him ascend any of the tributaries of the St. John's from San Pablo at its mouth to Juniper Creek, which empties into the southerly end of Lake George. It was on the latter stream that I nearly killed a Limpkin.

The man does not live who has actually caught or shot a Limpkin. There are no Limpkin s for sale in the curiosity shops, where almost every other production of Florida is to be had. It is admitted that the Limpkin, like the recognized ghost, is proof against powder and ball. But the writer never misses— that is, on paper and when he is recording his shots. All writers do the same. So when the Limpkin sat on a limb and whistled and chuckled and bobbed and bowed and finally flew away just before we were near enough, and I fired as he disappeared with horrible screams through the forest, one leg dropped ! I had not killed him, but even a Limpkin was not quite proof against my aim. Mr. Seth Green, who was with me at the time and can vouch for the truth of this statement, remarked in a melancholy tone of voice that he wished he had had his rifle. As he had not succeeded in hitting anything with his rifle thus far since we started, although he had fired away half his cartridges, there is a chance that he might have succeeded this time by way of a change, and so I agreed with him heartily.

Alligators will not appear till Avarm weatlicr— that is, till the middle of January — by which time the tourists will think he has got into the dog days, but fish are abundant in all the fresh-water streams. In that very Juuiper Creek we caught so many big-mouthed bass with fly and spoon that we not only gave up fishing, but had to salt down dozens. And, by tlic way, these fish are much more of game fish than they are at the North ; the smallest fight well, take the fly freely and jump out of water as frequently and fiercely as the small-mouthed variety in our waters.

Before leaving the instructive branch of my subject I wish to advise the yachtsman against giving too much weight to the appearance of the Southern sky. This will often cloud up toward evening in the most threatening way. Such a heavenly monitor at the North would warn us to make everything snug and get the best bower over, but in the South these appearances signify nothing. After a most frightful-looking evening the morningAvill break clear and warm and quiet. There are fev^r storms in Florida during the winter, a '^ norther" occasionally and possible a thunder storm, but no fierce northeasters and no hurricanes. As to the comparative advantages of working through the tortuous creeks with changing tides, or running outside for short stretches, a preference miglit be given to the latter were it not that the shoals oif the mouths of the inlets extend so far to sea. Many of the rivers have carried down so much sediment that they have made shoals t^n or 2 fifteen miles off shore. So that apart from, questions of safety and comfort, the distance hy the inside passage is the shortest.