Europe from May to December

Front matter

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Mm li'lM ii

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Preface

The object in writing these letters was not for publication. Wanting to have a journal of the things we would do, and the things we would see, and our impressions of them, and wanting to keep our relatives and friends advised of our itinerary and doings, this form of numbered letters was adopted.

The purpose was served, in that the journal is complete and truthful, and the letters, having been passed from house to house, and from friend to friend, afforded several of them the possibility of mentally following in our route. The proposed distribution of some printed copies is to supply a popular demand which does not exist.

For the very essential aid which was received, and without which the object could not have been accomplished, thanks are due to the very efficient International Postal Service, for promptly delivering each of the fifty semi-weekly letters, as addressed, and not least, by any means, to the dear relative who, with untiring care, followed them during their many changes, and finally placed the complete package in our hands.

Many of those who will glance into the volume are qualified to point out its literary demerits, and the failure as a journal. To save them the trouble of criticism, we ask them to remember that they are reading Unpublished Private Letters.

If by any chance the story falls under the observation of literary critics, to them the writer says, " Oh ! I have already rejected the thing ; " hence, if they should become interested, to them would fall the burden of proof. To all the writer offers these truisms. Personal freedom reigns. You are not compelled to read any of the book, and if it should fall into your possession, you may place it among other dummies in some imaginary library.

EUROPE FROM MAY TO DECEMBER.

LETTER I. Southampton, June jd, 1894

A COUPLE of hours after the midday meal Friday, there became visible from the deck of the steamer a plain white column, which seemed to rise out of the sea straight ahead of us. The mariners knew immediately that it was Lizard Lighthouse, situated on one of the most extreme western points of the island of England. For nine days our ship had followed its unmarked course, that column being the first objective point, and as we neared it, we were all impressed with the faithfulness and correctness of those who had presided over the actions of the great ship, and our then ending successful voyage.

For an hour we watched the white column grow into view, and then went below to dinner. On returning to the deck, we saw to our left, high, rocky land quite near to us — Scilly Island. Then again night came on, and we were once more in open sea, with land invisible. Soon, however, we were passing lighthouses, and signaling the ship's name, and when midnight came, we were in the English Channel, and were experiencing the roughest part of our voyage ; the ship tossed more than at any other time. Morning found us pushing our way up the English Channel, with lighthouses in the distance about us, and land in the dim distance.

Soon we found ourselves in quiet water, with the beautiful green lands, and houses, and towns of the Isle of Wight near us.

Ten-thirty found us in Southampton water, rapidly nearing the city, when finally the good ship Chester dropped her lines on the quay at exactly eleven o'clock, one hour less than twenty-one days after she had lifted her ropes and started on the round trip then ended. Now, Sunday, she is well under way again, bound for New York, having rested at her dock twenty-seven hours.

To disembark and pass the Customs officers was the work of a very short time. Five minutes from the time our feet pressed the dock our baggage had been passed, and we were foreigners, subject to the laws and conditions of Her Majesty's Government.

Immediately at hand, in a place set apart for them, we found a cluster of barrow-men, as we found they were called — men with trucks, having two Vv^heels, which they use to deliver baggage. They were all men apparently well along in years, bent and irregular. To one of them we gave our baggage and started for Radley's Hotel, where we are now domiciled.

As we walked along toward the hotel, the train bound for London and bearing our ship's passengers steamed past us, and from all the windows of the coaches we had waves of hats and handkerchiefs. Twelve o'clock, noon, found us located at Radley's. As we registered, the woman presiding at the desk said, " We give you room number twenty-one ; six shillings, per day for two, and attendance one and six additional,'' which means, in the American language, two and one-quarter dollars per day for our room.

As I said in my former letter, so it turned out, viz., "that an application of British soil to my feet would cure all the ills." So it did. The headache all went immediately ; the legs became firm and certain, and the spirit of ejection and rejection, which had so long held masterful sway over the stomach, immediately fled, and was replaced by one whose rulmg inclination was to possess. I think my partner has not felt such immediate and thorough relief, for even to-day she has had some dizziness. On getting located at Radley's, we started out to do England, and soon found ourselves in High Street, the principal one of the town. To satisfy the desire to possess, which had become located internally, we stopped at a restaurant, and very comfortably lunched for what would be fifty-four

American cents ; as John Bull would say, " two and tuppence."

We soon came to a massive stone arch, covering High Street, and located well down in the town. It dates from the eleventh century, and is of Norman construction. It is a remnant of the wall which, in those old days, encircled what is now the densely populated portion of the city. This arch is high and massive, the upper portion being used for the police court and magistrates' offices, and the wings for the city prison. The officer in charge called an attendant and directed him to show us about the place, which he proceeded to do with much formality. Cautiously he led us through winding stone corridors and up narrow stairs, and quietly, with uncovered head, opened a door, and we entered — where do you suppose? The dignity and caution with which all this was done, we don't, or did nof, understand, for we found ourselves; in the then deserted police court. Following the example of our leader, I had doffed my hat, and expected to see, possibly, a Norman king broiling and eating a few Britons.

In an adjoining room we were met pleasantly and politely by a nice, white-haired, little man, quite like our own Hilliard, who said if we were looking for the antiquities, he was one of the most important. We had a pleasant chat with the old gentleman who, when we told him we were Americans, asked us many questions and impressed us as one whom we would like to meet often. Our attendant said, " He is the chief dark of the Quarterly Sessions, sir."

By a long, narrow, steep stairway we reached the top, or roof of the arch, and had a fine view of the city, the harbor, and the surrounding country. On returning to the entrance, and dropping a sixpence in the open hand of the attendant, we proceeded to tramp on.

We viewed several quite considerable remnants of the old wall which, in places, forms parts of houses, and being back again into High Street, we walked out towards ilv^ outskirts of the town, and passed through three very pretty parks. There is not in them much floral display, save the beautiful flowering trees, hawthorn, and others. I*have not seen anything to equal the hawthorn and the rhododendrons. Magnificent as the display was of rhododendrons in the little house on the Wooded Island, it was babyishly insignificant compared with what may be seen here.

One cluster I will try to describe :— The highest point being ill the middle fully ten feet high ; the shape being round and about fifteen feet in diameter, while the flowers came do\Tn to within one and a half feet of the earth ; the whole being so finely cultivated and cared for that the effect was as one immense flower supported by one central stem or standard. Cluster after cluster of these beautiful things in varied colors, many of them covering spaces say, as large as a small building lot. To write an adequate description of their loveliness is simply impossible.

If possible, the hawthorn is more beautiful. I must study it more.

The parks contain fine monuments and statues, among them one of Lord Palmerston, who once lived and was a local official here. We trudged on to the edge of the city, and came to the country, the sides of the avenues along which we had walked being lined with beautiful vine-covered homes. The trees ! The trees ! All the way, at least two miles that we walked, we were covered with magnificent oak and elm trees; and so they continued out into the country as far as sight could carry. Many of them, by their regularity of position, showing that they were once planted by man and now grown to be great forest trees.

We came to Southampton Common, a large open park. In speaking of parks, as I have done above, they being in the city, I don't want the understanding to exist that they are small affairs, for they are not. I should say that the three parks referred to contain at least a hundred acres, which, being located in a ciiy of sixty thousand people, must not be thought to be insignificant at all.

Southampton Common, a great open common, covered with grass and the magnificent trees described above, is devoted to the pleasure of the people, and yesterday being Saturday there were many evidences of the way it is enjoyed. There were men, women, and children, cricket and other games, a battaUon of infantry drilUng. It certainly was a place of pleasure.

On our return tramp we diverged to visit a cemetery — a place of very closely laid graves, plain tombstones, the beautiful flowering trees and rhododendrons mentioned in another place, and quantities of creeping vines. Two pretty chapels are there, too, where services may be held by burial parties, if they so desire.

About five-thirty p. m. found us back at the hotel, having walked about seven miles, ready for dinner which we heartily enjoyed. We retired about nine o'clock and never slept more sweet sleep.

Before retiring I went to the hotel desk — there is not any office — to make inquiry about baths. I found a man in charge, who asked, " Do you want a bawth in the bawth-room, sir, or a hip-bawth in your own room, sir ? " I told him we would have a hip-bawth in our own room, sir, about eight o'clock. Promptly at eight o'clock the maid appeared with bath tub, towels, plenty of hot water and all things necessary for the bawths. It was all very English and very nice.

Sunday a. m. my partner said she would not go to the breakfast room, but would take some bread and milk in her own room. It proved entirely satisfactory. The writer went to the breakfast-room and ate a mutton chop and rolls, and drank poor coffee. We have heard that you cannot get good coffee in England and wonder if it will prove true.

Saint Michael's Church, where we found ourselves, is evidently so old that its dates are lost. The baptismal font dates from the twelfth century, and there are other antiquities about it. Built of large, uncut, shapeless stones, and having a very large, high, and massive stone spire ; it stands with what should be the rear end to the street, without any door in sight as you approach it. To enter you pass by the side in a kind of narrow street or alley, and find the entrance from a court at the opposite, or end from the street on which it stands. There is not the slightest evidence of any attempt at ornamentation, the same rough walls being inside that are seen outside. No plastering, no pictures, no woodwork. An occasional plain rough tablet, bearing an inscription, but all rough and plain, if not even beggarly plain. Stone floor and plain uncovered wooden seats. The service was the plain and simple service of the Church of England, with surpliced choir, all of which being intoned in a tone that I did not understand, and pronounced in such strongly accented English that it was almost entirely unintelligible, to me of course it was very instructive and interesting ; but we went to church all the same.

Netley Abbey, a relic of Henry the Third and the thirteenth century, is represented by fine well preserved ruins, and distant from the city, on the shore of the Itchan River, three to four miles. The hotel porter, who was undoubtedly interested with the cab-men, said promptly, " Four good long miles, sir ; fare seven shillings, sir. You cawnt possibly walk it, sir, hespecially the lady, sir." Well, we did walk it, just the same, and enjoyed it immensely. The road wound along close to the shore, the tide being out, we had between us and the water a very slightly declining beach several hundred yards wide, while, on the other side, we had beautiful grass, great forest and flowering trees, homes grand and fine, and homes plain'and modest, all covered with vines and flowers and showing the most scrupulous care and orderliness.

The day was lowering and cloudy, but the temperature was perfect. My partner wore her rain cloak and I my overcoat, and we both carried unbrellas, but it did not rain ; and as we returned from three-thirty to five o'clock, we had some sunshine.

As we went, we passed a modest little inn, and decided that on our return trip we would stop there for dinner. On we went, and we saw ahead of us on the beach a cluster of say eight people, and presently came dashing past us, from the city, a wagon containing two officers, the driver, and some stretchers. They stopped and alighted at the little group of people, and when we came up we found the object of their attention to be the body of a woman that had been deposited on the beach and left there by the outgoing tide. Then we saw in actual life a representation of Reinhart's picture, which was in the gallery in the Exposition, — Washed Ashore. There were the officers making notes, the little group of people, the sea, and all perfect. We have not learned any particulars, but I think the death was caused by murder, as the head looked to me to have been crushed.

We sauntered on and finally came to the ruins, where we stayed, strolling about and looking at them for an hour. They are interesting and well cared for and belong to Lord Chamberlain, who has a keeper there and who collects a sixpence each, sir. Near by are Netley Castle, an old private home with grand park and trees, and on the hill, covered with trees and vines, is the present pretty Netley Church, which we went into and inspected.

On our return we found that the body of the woman that we had seen, spoken of above, had been taken to the little inn, which we had passed and at which we had planned to dine. My partner never lets' an opportunity slip, and by inquiring learned that the law of the land requires, that a found body must be taken to the nearest public house, where the inquest must be held. We did not dine at the little inn, but trudged on back to the city.

On our return trip we diverged from the main road to see some thatched roofs and flower-surrounded cottages. They are not only in the stories, but they exist. They are very interesting, and their flower-beds are all that are said of them. At five o'clock we had returned, and soon after were enjoying, heartily indeed, a good dinner.

To-day, Monday, we have seen some more pieces of the old wall, and more of the old gates, have read inscriptions telling us of old battles, have done some little shopping, and are preparing to go away from here.

To-morrow we go by coach to Lyndhurst in the New Forest, an old Royal hunting demesne, and possibly one of the best specimens of English forests.

Will leave nearly all of our baggage here, and will be about here, at Salisbury, Winchester, and the Isle of Wight for a week or ten days ; thence to London.

LETTER II. Southampton, June \th^ 1890

We have just returned from a final stroll through the streets of the town. We bought some photographic views of some of the scenes, of which I wrote in No. i. This time we had learned of, and went to see, the house of Anne Boleyn, the second wife of the delectable old monarch, whom all good Catholics are sure is, and ever will be, broiling. It is situated on the opposite side of the court, from the entrance to St. Michael's Church, where we attended service yesterday.

We made a thorough tour of several of the streets devoted to shops of all grades. I made a study of prices, mentally comparing them with those quoted, for the very same articles, in protection-protected Chicago. For articles of food I conclude that the prices average higher than they do in Chicago, while for manufactured goods I cannot conclude that there is any difference, except that I believe the goods displayed in the shop windows in Chicago are of better quality, for corresponding prices, than here.

Here are a few prices : — Pork chops, fourteen cents ; sirloin roast, sixteen cents ; butter, sixteen and twenty-two cents ; eggs, seventeen cents ; new potatoes, good quality, ninety cents ; bacon, twelve cents ; ham, fifteen cents ; sugar, good quality, four cents ; cheese, fourteen and sixteen cents ; laborer's shoes, one dollar and seventy-five cents per pair, and higher. Of the shoes, I will say, that the low-priced kinds could not be sold in Chicago at all. They are too coarse and common. Laborer's underwear, the cheapest and commonest kind-eighty-five cents per piece, and higher. In other lines of men's wearing apparel, shirts, ties, collars, cuffs, etc., I cannot discover any difference in prices from those displayed in the windows in Chicago, while I believe that the goods shown in Chicago are of better quality. In men's ready-made clothing I believe this same condition exists. This particular thing, in fact all of the above, I shall study more.

Right here, in the gateway to England, it seems to me that there are evidences that the laborer gets more for his money in Chicago than he does for the same amount here. It begins to look as though protection cheapens everything but wages, but we will not decide yet.

One thing I cannot yet understand, and that is the apparent comfort and thrift of the people we see, — all classes. We have been in all grades of residence-streets in this city, and have carefully considered the residents. We have not seen barefoot, ragged children, or miserably dressed working-people. I have seen many American cities on Sunday, and don't hesitate to write that the condition of the people we saw yesterday, Sunday, was superior in dress and orderliness than in many of our cities. This impresses me so forcibly I am compelled torecognize it, and don't understand it. How is it possible for the driver of a cab, whose wages are three dollars a week, to dress his children and care for his home as we see them here .? Of course they have their tips ; without which they could not live ; but suppose the tips double the amount, making his receipts six dollars per week, still, how is it possible ?

To-day, while prowling around looking at parts of the old wall, among the poor people the children we saw were better clad, cleaner, and more comfortable looking than they would be in corresponding localities in American cities. One place in particular, where we went to see the old West Gate and Tower, now the homes of poor people ; to go up the old stone steps we were compelled to displace a cluster of children who lived in the quarters above, and we remarked on their good clothes and cleanliness. This, may not be the rule in England, but it is here in Southampton, and it surprises us.

Before returning to the hotel this evening, we went to the office of the coach to see about our trip to the New Forest, intended for to-morrow. We found the superintendent, or proprietor, of the coach, whichever he may be, to be a man of business, and, in his own estimation and the appreciation of his place in the world, of considerable importance. We found him in a little bake-shop, where they sell penny cakes and a glass of milk, if you want it, located in a house, as his hand-bill informs you, in which Doctor Watt wrote many of the hymns which we all sing.

My partner was particular that we should have front seats in the coach, which Mr. Page said we could have, as we happened to be the first applicants. Later in the season, though, they charge more for those seats. " Yes, after getting the people from the Isle of Wight boat, the coach would pick you up at Radley's at promptly ten minutes to eleven, and would we be ready on time } " Three-and-six each the round trip ; which means, in United States language, eighty-seven and a half cents or about. On leaving the little shop, I said to my partner that I would bet her one of the little jam tarts inside that we would be the only passengers on the coach.

Lyndhurst^ June 5th : — Lyndhurst is the capital of the New Forest.

The coach, promptly as expected, picked us up at Radley's, but it did not have the Isle of Wight passengers. There were not any. We had four good horses, a good driver, and a good horn-blower, and dashed up through the city to the several halting places, but did not get any more passengers. Besides ourselves the only passenger on the coach, which would easily carry thirty-five, was a white fox-terrier dog, who shortly manifested his desire to be let down, which being granted, he occupied himself in running by the side of the horses, and frequently dashing in and about the Uttle homes and cottages and stirring up other dogs and poultry.

The day has been cloudy and cool, perfect for our business. How can I describe our coach ride of ten miles to this, the center of the New Forest ! The road is not as wide as are public roads in America, but it is as perfect- a roadway as are our boulevards. The road, as all appear in this country, is quite crooked and is through undulating land, hence has some considerable little hills. The first two or three miles being through the outskirts of the city, Southampton, we were of course surrounded by homes of the city people, which, in many instances, were cottages with thatched roof and covered with vines and flowers. Many large houses, for instance large square houses like the homes on the" Lake Shore Drive, will be so hidden with ivy and other vines as to render it almost impossible to see any of them but the windows, doors, and roof.

Finally we left the city and district pertaining to it, and were in the farming country. How beautiful ! How beautiful ! In its perfection of cultivation ! Hedges line the roadway and divide the farms into fields. There is not any unproductive land, unless it be a private or public park, or the fine grounds Surrounding a home. The numberless acres that we constantly pass, devoted to nothing but pleasure, and to look beautiful, are a constant surprise to me.

The beauty, at this time, of the farm fields is indescribable. I could not help constantly exclaiming to my partner about it. I thought of some of our friends, as we rolled past a field filled with several kindsof clover, daisies, buttercups, dandelions, and grass. Beautiful ! beautiful ! Yet this is not an evidence of very rich soil, but quite the contrary.

Each mile or two brought us to a country inn, little store, and smithy. About would be generally standing a donkey or ponycart or two, and likely a stylish dog-cart or two, on which John would sit straight and stiff waiting for his master, who would be inside having something. Finally, in the edge of the Forest, we stopped at The John Barleycorn Inn. We alighted and looked about. In the little tap-room, say eight by ten feet, sat about eight young Englishmen talking and drinking ale. Their talk was of the hounds, the forest, and horses. Having discovered that it is the custom for passengers to see that the coach does not pass the John Barleycorn with thirsty attendants, I tried our driver and footman, and they promptly responded, as true Englishmen never fail to do. In a few minutes after, when I saw the old driver extinguishing his second glass of Scotch whisky, I felt a little concern about the outcome of our coaching trip, which, as driver, largely rested with him ; but when we were again seated and were bowling along through the forest, I saw he was entirely himself, and entirely unruffled by any such little thing as two glasses of whisky.

What the status of the forest is now I intend to learn and will tell you later on. The Governor, as he is called, lives here, and we were informed that for a small fee we would be told all about it. Originally there were one hundred and forty square miles in the royal hunting-ground, now, we are informed, it is reduced, by cultivated land, to ninety square miles.

The four miles of the forest, through which we passed before arriving here, is almost entirely timbered land. There are occasionally country seats, but generally the road winds through forest trees. Oak, fir, and beech seem to be the predominating kinds. From the size and kind of trees I should say the average age to be about seventy-five years, though there are frequently oaks that have seen certainly two hundred winters. While the oaks are not tall, and all have the appearance of having been topped in their youth, I am of the opinion that the New Forest, as far back as is known, has been timbered land, and not, as there are things to indicate, once cultivated land. The fir trees resemble much the yellow pine of Virginia and the Carolinas, and the combination of wood being, as I said, fir, beech and oak, we were frequently reminded of forest scenes in Virginia.

Finally, at one-thirty, with great flourish of whip and team, we rolled into this little old town, and with a special blast of the horn stopped at the Fox and Hounds Inn.

Lunch was ready. What was it .'* Well, I will tell you : — cold lamb, a salad made of lettuce and radishes, excellent indeed, new potatoes, bread and butter and pickles. To drink — anything you might want. All very good and bountiful. We took the bountiful part of it.

On inquiring where we could walk to and use the afternoon, we decided on Brockenhurst, a small village distant four miles, and we started at two-thirty. The road again was perfect and lined with forest trees and the things of the forest nearly all the way. We met with few people or vehicles and saw but few evidences of civilization, except as before occasionally away from the road we would see the towers and chimneys of a country home. We saw many small horses and their colts, which breed and continually live in the forest. I intend to learn to whom they belong. While they are common, rough stock, they are horses all the same, and there being thousands of them, have much value.

We found Brockenhurst a typical English village, had a short rest there, and took up our tramp back here, where we arrived at exactly six o'clock, having walked the eight miles comfortably in two and a half hours. In describing these things, I must not fail to do justice to the forest songsters, the birds. They are ever with us in great and new varieties, that is new to us. The cuckoo is constantly sending forth his peculiar call, and constantly the concert goes on.

Wednesday, June 6th : — To-day our march was laid for Beaulieu Abbey, pronounced Bewley, and the village of the same name adjoining. We ordered a plain English breakfast for seven o'clock. A plain English breakfast is without meat. We had bread and butter, sauce, and milk. At seven-thirty, before many people were stirring in the little town, we started and have had a day rich indeed in experience that we will remember.

" Take the road straight to the green at the foot of the village, sir, and take the road to the right at the sign-board, and keep straight to Bewley, sir." Immediately on taking the road to the right at the sign-board, we found ourselves on a heather-covered hill and could see the road winding up and down over open, timberless hills miles ahead of us. Immediately, all about us on the hillsides, we were surrounded by numberless hares, one of the great English game animals. They are quite like our gray rabbit, but several times larger. They live in the ground in burrows in the heatiier fields, and our early appearance disturbed them while they were getting their breakfasts. They eat grass, and in the early morning and night come out of their homes to feed. The heather grows so abundantly that it nearly takes possession of the land, leaving little room or chance for the grass. Along the road, however, where the driving and walking, and the care of the roadway keeps down the heather, the grass grows, and there the hares feast. They were in pairs, in families, and in flocks, numberless indeed. As we came along, they scampered off and disappeared in the ground. It is the time of year that they are protected, hence they are safe.