Travels In Upper And Lower Amoor And Russian Acquisitions

Front matter

TRAVELS

IN THE REGIONS OF

THE UPPER AND LOWER AMOOR

Preface

My former work was published for the purpose of introducing to the English reader scenes in a remote part of the globe, of which no other descriptions were available, and I attempted nothing beyond a narrative of incidents and observations as they were noted down from day to day, such as I considered would suffice to explain and illustrate my pictorial representations.. In the present work the higher. interest of the subject has induced me to attempt to produce information of a more elevated character, intended to satisfy, in some respects at least, the wishes of the Geologist, Botanist, Ethnologist, and other scientific scholars, who invariably expect to find in an account of a new country materials likely to extend the circle of their favourite study, or strengthen the truths on which it is founded. There were other demands to satisfy, to which, it will be . found, I have tried to pay the same deference. Our commerce, prodigious as are its operations, is, it is well known, capable of infinite expansion, and I have laid open a field of almost incalculable extent, where enterprise, skill, and industry are sure to find a profitable investment. Having suggested the establishment of a Fair on the Indian frontier, I may be permitted to say that this was not made without a knowledge of what is passing in another part of Asia. The “ Yermak” at Irbit, on the frontier of Siberia, has within the past ten years A4

V1 PREFACE.

risen from one of comparative insignificance to great importance. Its commercial transactions in February last amounted to more than 12,000,0001.

For those of my compatriots who have been alarmed by the approaches of Russia to our Indian Empire, I have ‘faithfully stated every step that has recently been made in this direction, and afforded them an opportunity of learning her present position on the north of the Himalaya. Her existing relations with China, now that we are engaged in a war with its Government, will doubtless give increased interest to the facts [ have been enabled to collect respecting the several advances she has skilfully made into Chinese territory, and the consequent extraordinary development of her own.

I am indebted to several of the Russian officers who were employed in the great expedition into Manjouria for facilities in acquiring information during my travels, and I beg them, and numerous Asiatic friends, to whom I am under similar obligations, to accept my grateful thanks.

‘ With regard to the Illustrations, it is here necessary to state that to the numerous landscape series, engraved from my own drawings, I have added a few characteristic portraits, copied from a work recently published by the Russian Government. |

I have only to express an earnest hope that the efforts I have made to render this second production more valuable than the first, will be accepted as a proof that I am not insensible of the indulgence I have received from my critics.

Brompton, July, 1860.

Contents

v

CHAP.

I. FLIGHT OF CIRCASSIAN PRISONERS . ° JI. RUSSIAN POSTS AMONG THE KIRGHIS . e ° I. HOW TO CROSS THE DESERTS OF ASIA . e IV. SILVER MINES IN THE STEPPE. . . .

Chapter I. Flight Of Circassian Prisoners

INTELLIGENCE has reached England from time to time, for the last ten or a dozen years, of Russian acquisitions in central Asia, stretching out far towards the Himalaya; and in 1857 of that vast tract of country, the valley of the Amoor, said to have been ceded by the Emperor of China to the Emperor of Russia. Letters and paragraphs on the subject have frequently appeared in the public prints, some of them having an apparent air of truth from the details set forth : but they had evidently been written without a proper knowledge of the country, and had no foundation in fact. Up to the latest advices no modern geographer has published any reliable description of these regions; and no recent traveller, it was believed, had penetrated its alleged interminable steppes and Cyclopean mountain chains. In short it was regarded as a terra incognita quite as much by the scientific as by less learned readers.

As I had passed several years exploring this remote portion of the globe, and was the only European who had been permitted to enter the new Russian territory, it suggested itself to me, that a detail of my wanderings in these enormous tracts of mountain, valley, and plain, which Russia

B

2 RUSSIAN ACQUISITIONS.

has added to her empire and colonised with a warlike race, might be considered of some interest to my countrymen. It must be understood, in the first place, that this additional Russian territory extends over more than two-thirds of her southern Siberian frontier, which is about 6500 miles in length, commencing on the Caspian in 44° lat. N. and 51° long. E., and ending in 53° lat. N. and 142° long. E. Its most southern point is in 42° lat. N. and 80° long E. The breadth of these acquisitions varies very much at different points, and will be best understood by a reference to the map.

The importance of such an increase of power to a state, previously one of the most considerable of the European monarchies, cannot be understood without knowing the sources of material prosperity which exist within these new provinces. Mineral wealth of incalculable amount and agricultural produce in prodigious abundance, form but two items in their resources. The various tribes that inhabit distinct portions will also be found to claim attentive consideration.

I am far from being an alarmist, and, with the opportunities I have enjoyed of knowing the state of feeling in Russian society, I ought to be the last person to suggest apprehension of evil from the accumulation of the elements of a predominating influence in the hands of an absolute sovereign: but the English statesman will not, I am sure, shut his eyes to the fact, that Russian territory has now very nearly approached the possessions of Great Britain in India, and whatever my opinions may be, he may not unreasonably expect that a government which advances in the East at this rate of progress, may desire sooner or later, to expand her territorial limits to the southward. To him the contingency may seem inevitable, of a further stride across the Himalayas to Calcutta: but even if such intentions were entertained, of which there is no proof, ample employment

SEMIPALATINSK. 3 for many years to come will be found for the present enlightened ruler of this colossal empire, in the development of the resources of Russia on the vast steppes of central Asia, in the region of the Amoor, and on the island of Karapta or Saghalien with its commodious harbours and extensive coalfields, and in the establishment throughout these regions of that civil and military system which will bring it in perfect harmony with Russia on the Dwina, Don, Oural, and the Volga.

Unwilling to detain the reader by merely prefatory matter, I commence my explorations from the Siberian frontier.

Semipalatinsk, or Seven Palaces, stands on the frontier between Siberia and the Kirghis Steppe, in lat. 50° 30’ N. and long. 80° E., and at above 775 feet above the level of the sea. It is so named from seven mounds lying near the town, traditionally the remains of royal residences; but if this be the case they were erected when the art of building

Ruins near Semipalatinsk.

palaces was in its infancy. Unless a great change has taken place in this district, it is difficult to account for such edifices B2

4 SIBERIAN MERCHANT.

being raised here, for the country around is a barren plain, with several stagnant lakes, occasional patches of grass, and numerous hillocks formed by the wind whirling the sandy soil into heaps.

The town, consisting principally of wooden buildings, stands on the eastern bank of the Irtisch. It is a long line of houses set back about 150 yards from the river, facing the south-west, with a view over the Kirghis Steppe, which stretches out in that direction for more than a thousand miles. A wide road separates the houses from gardens that extend along the river bank. Here melons and water melons are grown of a large size, and of a most delicious flavour, without the aid of glass. They are sold at a very cheap rate—five or six for tenpence.

The buildings are scattered over a considerable space forming several streets; each house, great and small, has its court-yard enclosed by a wooden fence ten to twelve feet high, with large gates in the centre. The government offices, and other edifices connected with the military department, are at the northern end of the town. These, and the custom-house, are mostly built of brick, and have an imposing appearance when seen at a distance. A numerous body of Cossacks is always stationed here with a strong force of artillery; so that this is really a military town of great importance in connection with the government of the Kirghis. |

There is one mansion in the town,—the residence of a Siberian merchant from Tomsk; this had been furnished without regard to cost. The hot-houses and green-houses attached to the dwelling were on an extensive scale, and contained a choice collection of tropical and other plants, brought from Europe at great expense. The arrangement of the whole establishment proved that a most luxurious style of living had reached this distant spot, on the verge of nomade, almost of savage life. The proprietor possessed

SIBERIAN LITIGATION. 5 lead and silver mines in the Kirghis Steppe at about 200 miles distant, which were at one time a source of considerable wealth. Afterwards, through mismanagement and peculation, the working entailed a serious loss—persons employed by him in offices of trust becoming rich at his cost.

Among other refinements of civilisation imported from Europe into this region, is litigation, in which some of the Siberians are fond of indulging. This gentleman became involved in a lawsuit, respecting a claim of 475,000/. It lasted several years, and then he not only lost it but also enormous sums expended in law proceedings and bribes. This so affected his circumstances that the mansion was suffered to fall into decay; and the shattered windows now admit the swallow and the bat, which have taken up their abode and rear their young in its magnificent apartments. The vines and the pines have ceased to bear their luscious fruit, and the flowering plants no longer put forth their splendid blossoms. The lead and silver mines have passed into the hands of the Crown, and are now being extensively worked.

Many Tatar merchants in Semipalatinsk are engaged in trade with the Chinese towns of Tchoubachack and Kuldja; also with Bokhara, Khokan, and Tashkend, between which and Semipalatinsk caravans are frequently passing. They take out printed Russian goods, copper, iron,-and hardware, returning with tea, silks, and dried fruits, which are forwarded to the fair at Irbit and are then dispersed, — the greater portion being sent into Siberia, the rest into Europe. The dwellings of the merchants engaged in this trade are commodious and clean, and the rooms contain a great deal of valuable property,—in some rich carpets from Persia and Bokhara are hanging on the walls as well as spread on the floors, in others they are piled up in bales. In another room are magnificent silks, shawls, and Kalats (or dressing gowns), beautifully embroidered with gold and coloured

B 3

6 HERDS OF CATTLE.

silks. Ornaments and large vases in porcelain from China, tea services, plates, dishes, and similar works of singular taste and beauty ; diamonds, rubies, emeralds, and a few other precious stones, form parts of their stock in trade. At my visits, shortly after entering the house, tea and dried fruits were handed. Low divans are placed round the rooms, but most generally the inmates are found seated on carpets spread on the floor drinking tea and sewing. Forged Russian notes are frequently found among these Tatars, twice they passed them upon me; although I knew from whom I received them, my friends advised me to burn the notes, as the loss would be far better than the trouble and annoyance if the affair was placed in the hands of the police.

Beside these merchants there are others who carry on a great trade with the Kirghis, supplying them with silk dresses, tea, raisins, and wooden bowls from China, kalats of printed calico from Khokan, Russian hardware, iron, copper and leather; for which they receive in exchange black and grey fox skins, black lamb skins, horses, oxen and sheep. The horses and oxen are driven into eastern Siberia to the different gold mines. One of these Tatar traders told me that he imported 50,000 horned cattle into Siberia annually, and these are chiefly consumed at the gold mines. I have met the Kirghis with herds of from 3,000 to 4,000 oxen 1,500 miles from their homes and 500 from their destination.

When the cattle are delivered at the mines, the men remain a few days and then start on their return,—a very long ride. Their journey homeward is by the post as far as Semipalatinsk, and then to their hovels in the Steppe on horseback. The sheep are driven across the Steppe to Petropavlosk on the frontier of Siberia, and thence to Ekaterineburg, where they are killed and their fat melted down into tallow. More than one million sheep are brought from

FERRY ACROSS THE IRTISCH. 7 the Kirghis Steppe yearly which are disposed of in this manner. The whole of the tallow was (till within the last five years) forwarded to Europe; now the bulk is converted into sterine at a large works near Ekaterineburg. This establishment supplies all Siberia with candles, besides sending a great quantity into Russia.

Before taking leave of Semipalatinsk, I will mention an event which might have terminated my explorations; with the chance of a ride to the mines of Eastern Siberia, at his Imperial Majesty’s cost. One Saturday evening, in October, 1850, I arrived at Semipalatinsk from Chinese Tartary, when

The Ferry across the Irtisch at Semipalatinsk.

the director of the customs informed me that Prince Gortchikoff was in the town. After my few articles had passed the scrutiny of the officers and a lodging was pro-

B 4

8 A JACK IN OFFICE.

cured, I prepared to pay the Prince a visit. During a two years’ travel my wardrobe had become exceedingly scanty and tattered; nor was it possible to obtain any apparel on my journey, unless the Tatar costume was adopted.

It was just dusk in the evening when I presented myself at the gate of the house occupied by His Excellency. While passing through the court-yard a group of Cossacks eyed me with scrutinizing glances, evidently meditating the operation of kicking me out. Returning their stare with a determined look, I proceeded on, and entered the house. An officer was in attendance in the hall, from whom I inquired if the Prince was within. A very haughty reply in the affirmative was vouchsafed me,- accompanied by a surly demand as to who I was and what I wanted. This was answered by handing my card and desiring it should be given to His Excellency. My person and appearance were carefully inspected; the card critically examined; after which the officer declined delivering it. Finally he ordered me out in a tone intended to enforce instant obedience, and turned away clanking his sabre as he strode to the window.

I now quietly repeated my demand and insisted on the card being instantly delivered, or that his conduct should be reported. This astonished him and raised his ire; striding towards me he asked in a most imperious tone how I dared to remain after his orders, — ending his sentence with a German expression in nowise flattering to me. Again he demanded who I was, and what business I could have with His Excellency.. Finding that he spoke German, I looked coolly at him, saying in that language that my card answered his first question, — his duty was to inform his commander I was there by delivering it, and my business should be stated to the Prince only. He then told me that the Prince attended to no beggars, and advised my speedy departure without an escort of Cossacks, with which he would soon accommodate me if I lingered.

PRINCE GORTCHIKOFF. 9

Our conversation had brought out another officer who stood scanning me with a look of supreme contempt. The two took several turns to and fro, probably contemplating some amusement at my expense. At last the gentlemen called a Cossack to remain in the hall, —.a quiet hint that they did not deem the coats safe. After this they left me and entered the rooms beyond; in a few minutes my first acquaintance returned, and in a most affable manner invited me to follow. He conducted me through several rooms into a small cabinet in which I found the Prince, who instantly rose from his seat and shook me cordially by the hand. The bullying adjutant was greatly amazed and somewhat crestfallen, not knowing who I was, and fearing that a complaint might be made against him.

After learning from me how long I had arrived, he assured me that I had been the cause of his having made a rapid journey to this place, and to my extreme surprise acquainted me with the particulars I shall now lay before the reader. 3

About the latter end of the month of September, 1850, an event occurred in the Altai which caused great sensation throughout Western Siberia. In one of my journeys in the autumn of 1848, I had visited the towns of Kouznetsk, Bisk, and all the Cossack posts on my way to the Altin-Kool ; remaining two days with the officer in command at Sandypskoi, the last Cossack fort on the river Béa. There is a body | of 500 men at this fort, which stands in a delightful situation on the east bank of the river. The Cossacks and their families are well off, having all the comforts of life and many luxuries. Nearly all the mining officers in the Altai knew me, and I had frequently visited the military commanders in their different districts, and thus all the authorities had a full knowledge of my identity.

Thirteen months had elapsed since I had shaken the Siberian sand from my feet, and left Oustkamenogersk. It was

10 AN INVASION.

late on a Sunday night when a ball was given in honour of a lady’s names-day, that I said good-bye to my friends and started eastward towards Mongolia. A great storm was raging in the mountains at the time, causing me to watch the forked lightning as it played round the summits of the Altai, and illuminated the whole country with a crimson glare, dimming the flickering lights in the festal mansion, while the crashing thunder silenced the music. During the early part of this period, I had forwarded letters through the Cossack piquets to Prince Gortchikoff, the Governor-general of Western Siberia, and his replies reached me through the same channel. From this circumstance the Prince knew that I was far from Siberia, and pushing my way south into regions over which Russia had no control.

One night in the month before mentioned, when all my friends in Barnaoul had quietly retired to rest, little thinking that danger was fast approaching their abodes, they were awakened from their slumbers a little after midnight by a party of Cossacks galloping up the quiet street, to the house of the chief of the mines. A loud thundering at the door roused the inmates, when a dispatch was delivered informing the Colonel that Siberia was being invaded by 3,000 Asiatics, who were descending the valley of the Béa, and the officer in command of the Cossacks at Sandypskoi required troops to be sent to Bisk forthwith: upon which town he intended to retreat, not having a sufficient force to check the invaders.

In a few minutes Cossacks were sent to rouse up the officers, and desire them to repair to the house of their chief without delay. On their assembling, the dispatch was read ; causing great consternation among those who dreaded the advancing savages. Similar dispatches had been sent to the Governor of Tomsk, to Prince Gortchikoff in Omsk, and to the Emperor in Petersburg. The director of the mines ordered the colonel in command of the military, to have his

BOOTY. 11 men (about 800), ready to march at daybreak. After this he turned his attention to the safety of the town, and what it contained. Nearly all the gold obtained from the mines of Siberia had been delivered in Barnaoul, to be smelted into bars, ready to send by the first winter roads to Petersburg. It was supposed that the Asiatics knew this, and that their object was plunder. There were about 43,200 lbs. weight of gold, and 28,800 lbs. of silver in the cellars at the smelting works: a prize worth having. Besides the precious metals, there were the stores belonging to the crown, and other property of considerable value,—even the dwellings of the officers would have afforded a rich booty. The shops and warehouses contained supplies of every thing needed by the inhabitants, and an immense stock of wodky was stored in the government cellars.

The chief assigned to each officer the duty he had to perform, some to provide for the security of the precious metals, and others to make arrangements for defending the town. Having placed the whole under the command of Colonel Kavanka, the Director prepared to lead the troops to the scene of action on the Béa.

The approaching dangers were now made known to the ladies. The idea of being captured and carried away by the savage tribes, filled their minds with horror; as many traditions remained in Siberia of the barbarities inflicted by the Asiatic hordes in former invasions. When their husbands announced the orders they had received, the excitement increased ; the news spread into every dwelling, as usual much exaggerated on the transit. Man¥ believed that the mvaders were close at hand, and fear caused some to fancy that they heard their savage cries. The Cossacks galloping to and fro with orders, strengthened this idea; and the panic filled every female heart when the shrill notes of the bugles and the roll of the drums echoed in the night.

Just as the grey dawn began to break in the eastern sky

12 THE LEADER OF THE INVASION.

two Cossacks dashed through the gate into Barnaoul, and galloped on to the house of the Director. One of them leaped from his horse and delivered a second dispatch from © the officer at Sandypskoi, with the information that the invaders were rapidly descending the valley of the Béa. Also that they had commenced burning the aouls of the Kalmucks, and were murdering every man, woman, and child they could lay hands on. Instead of 3,000, they were now announced to be 7,000 strong, great numbers of whom were armed with rifles. Further, this army of savages was led on by the Englishman Atkinson, —a fact affirmed to be beyond all doubt, as the writer of the dispatch stated that he had seen him. This account caused general alarm. Some thought that the wild hordes of Asia were bursting forth, as in the time of Genghiz Khan, to spread desolation over the country on their march towards Europe. ll felt that the affair had become serious, and the Cossacks declared that the people at all the villages on their route were packing up their goods and preparing for flight.

The Director and the officers in Barnaoul did not doubt the fact of my being with the invaders, but not as their leader. It was thought that I had been taken prisoner in the regions to the south of the Altai, and being so well acquainted with the passes in the mountains, it was supposed — that the commanders of the hordes had compelled me to act as their guide. When this was made known, some of the ladies betrayed a gleam of hope, assured that I should try to save my friends. The officers were most anxious about my safety, and mahy plans of rescue were suggested. The chances of success were however considered doubtful, and all feared for my fate. This last communication hastened the preparations, and at six o'clock the troops were on their march. The chief intended joining them at a point about fifty miles distant, to which he could travel by more difficult but a much shorter route. The Colonel who remained in

- TROOPS CROSSING THE OBI. 13 command of the town, began placing the Zavod in a state of defence, and then barricaded his own dwelling. Some of the

. ont i = t y ~ « fe ™ oe a fag aes Eee Pe Pee ‘9 ea

Troops crossing the Obi at Goubena.

ladies proposed that the Governor’s mansion, a large brick building, should be made the citadel; and that in the lower story all the precious metals belonging to His Imperial Majesty, as well as their own valuables, should be deposited; while they and their children should occupy the upper rooms; satisfied that fear of the Emperor would insure such a defence of the position as might lead to their preservation. At ten o’clock in the forenoon a third dispatch arrived, informing the Director that the Cossacks had retreated from Sandypskoi; the number of the enemy had now advanced to 10,000, and it was stated that the inhabitants of the towns

14 MARCH OF TROOPS.

of Bisk, and Kouznetsk, were leaving their homes and carrying what little property they could along with them. In fact wheresoever the news had reached, the people were fleeing from their dwellings with the utmost precipitation.

Three similar dispatches had been forwarded by couriers to General Anossoff, the governor of Tomsk, to Prince Gortchikoff at Omsk, and to the Emperor. The distance from Barnaoul to Sandypskoi was more than 250 miles, and the troops were pushed on at their greatest speed. Immediately the intelligence reached Prince Gortchikoff he left Omsk and travelled to Semipalatinsk, a distance of more than 600 miles, in forty hours. From this place he sent a regiment of Cossacks with six guns to secure some of the passes in the Altai; while another with six guns was ordered from Oustkamenogorsk to cut off any bodies of men making their way westward.

General Anossoff called out a body of soldiers in Tomsk with one field gun. At the same time he ordered the general commanding the forces in the government of Tomsk to march with a strong force and four guns. Shortly these two divisions were on their march by different routes; the commanders of each believing that they would find me a prisoner in the hands of the enemy. At the end of their third day’s march they observed the villagers deserting their homes; and on the fourth day they met the people in great numbers fleeing away in the utmost dread. News had reached them of the massacre of the Kalmucks, accompanied by such ferocious acts of cruelty that no persuasion could induce them to remain, —in short, the whole population was panic struck and had lost all courage.

On the fifth day the troops from Barnaoul reached Bisk, and found the town deserted by all the inhabitants, except a feyy civil officers and a small body of Cossacks; the latter in guard of the warehouses in which were stored the valuable furs belonging to the Crown. During the night

CIRCASSIAN PRISONERS. 15 news reached the commander which cast a doubt on the accuracy of the dispatches. Gradually reports were received reducing the number of the invaders, and containing reliable information that they were not continuing their march down the valley of the Béa. This delayed the further advance of the soldiers; and Cossacks were sent to stop the march of the troops under the command of the two generals from Tomsk. In the course of two days it was ascertained that this alarming invasion had its source in a party of forty Circassian prisoners who had escaped from the gold mines on the Birioussa. When this discovery was made the troops returned to their respective stations, and the local officers were left to deal with the affair.

These fugitive Circassians had no intention of invading the Russian dominions, their object being to escape from the great Siberian prison to their far distant homes. They were prisoners of war, and had been sent to work in the mines of Siberia, which was considered an act of great cruelty. Surely soldiers who had bravely defended their homes deserved a better fate than to be mixed with Russian convicts, many of whom were criminals of the worst class. These brave fellows had been employed at the gold washings on the Birioussa, a river which forms the boundary between the governments of Irkoutsk and Yenissey. From this place they determined to escape, and, after many difficulties, made the attempt.

By the aid of small quantities of gold, which they managed to secrete during their labours, they procured a rifle and ammunition for each man from the Tatars, who concealed ° them in a cavern in the mountains about seven miles from the mines. The most essential requisites for their future success had now been obtained, but at a cost of ten times their value. There was no fear of the Tatars betraying them, as their own safety depended on their secrecy, and a terrible punishment awaited them if detected with gold in their possession.

16 THE STUD.