Four months in a sneak-box. A boat voyage of 2600 miles down the Ohio and Mississippi rivers, and along the Gulf of Mexico

Front matter

r

CORNELL,. ^ UNIVERSITY LIBRARY

WiLLARD FiSKE

Introduction

Eighteen months ago the author gave to the public his " Voyage of the Paper Canoe : — a geographical journey of 25oo miles from Quebec to the Gulf of Mexico, during the

The kind reception by the American press of the author's first journey to the great southern sea, and its republication in Great Britain and in France within so short a time of its appearance in the United States, have encouraged him to give the public a companion volume, — "Four Months in A Sneak-Box," — which is a relation of the experiences of a second cruise to the Gulf of Mexico, but by a different route from that followed in the "Voyage of the Paper Canoe." This time the author procured one of the smallest and most comfortable of boats — a purely American model, developed by the bay-men of the New Jersey coast of the United States, and recently introduced to the gunning

V

VI INTRODUCTION.

fraternity as the Barnegat Sneak-Box. This curious and stanch little craft, though only twelve feet in length, proved a most comfortable and serviceable home while the author rowed in it more than 2600 miles down the Ohio and Mississippi rivers, and along the coast of the Gulf of Mexico, until he reached the goal of his voyage — the mouth of the wild Suwanee River — which was the terminus of his "Voyage of the Paper Canoe."

The maps which illustrate the contours of the coast of the Gulf of Mexico, like those in the other volume, are the most reliable ever given to the public, having been drawn and engraved, by contract for the work, by the United States Coast and Geodetic Survey Bureau.

Lake George, Warren Co.,

New York State,

September ist, 1879.

Chapter I. The Boat For The Voyage

Canoes for Shat,low Streams and Frequent Portages. — Sneak-boxes for Deep Watercourses. — ■ History and Description of the Barnegat Sneak-box. — A Walk DOWN Eel Street to Manahawken Marshes. — Honest George the Boat-builder. — The Building of the Sneak-box "Centennial Republic." — Its Transportation to THE Ohio River i

CHAPTER n.

SOURCES OF THE OHIO RIVER.

Description of the Monongahela and Alleghany Rivers. — The Ohio River. — Explorations of Cavelier de la Salle. — Names given by Ancient Cartographers to the Ohio. — Routes of the Aborigines from the Great Lakes to the Ohio River 19

CHAPTER HI.

FROM PITTSBURGH TO BLENNERHASSET'S ISLAND.

The Start for the Gulf. — Caught in the Ice Rapt. — Camping on the Ohio. — The Grave Creek Mound. — An Indian Sepulchre. — Blennerhasset's Island. — Aaron Burr's Conspiracy. — A Ruined Family 29

vii

VUl CONTENTS.

CHAPTER IV.

FROM BLENNERHASSET'S ISLAND TO CINCINNATI.

River Camp-s.— The Shanty-Boats and River Migrants.— Various Experiences. — Arrivajl at Cincinnati. — The Sneak-box frozen up in Pleasant Rpn. — A Tailor's Family. — A Night under a German Coverlet 55

CHAPTER V.

FROM CINCINNATI TO THE MISSISSIPPI RIVER.

Cincinnati. — Music and Pork in Porkopolis. — The Big Bone Lick of Fossil Elephants. — Colonel Croghan's Visit to the Lick. — Portage around the "Falls" at Louisville; Kentucky. — Stuck in the Mud. — The First Steamboat of the West. — Victor Hugo on the Situation. — A Freebooter's Den. — Whooping and Sand-hill Cranes. — The Sneak-box enters the Mississippi ... 79

CHAPTER VI.

DESCENT OF THE MISSISSIPPI RIVER.

Leave Cairo, Illinois. — The Longest River in the World.— Book Geography and Boat Geography. — Chickasaw Bluff. — Meeting with the Parakeets. — Fort Donaldson. — Earthquakes and Lakes. — Weird Beauty OF Reelfoot Lake. — Joe Eckel's Bar. — Shanty-boat Cooking. ^ Fort Pillow. — Memphis. — A Negro Justice. — "De Common Law ob Mississippi" 115

CHAPTER VII.

DESCENT OF THE MISSISSIPPI TO NEW ORLEANS.

A Flatboat bound for Texas. — A Flat-man on River Physics. — Adrift and A.sleep. — Seeing the Earth's Little Moon. — Vicksburgh. —Jefferson Davis's Cot-

CONTENTS. IX

TON Plantation, and its Negro Owner. — Dying in 1113 Boat. — How to civilize Chinese. —A Swim of One Hundred AND Twenty Miles on the Mississippi. — Twenty-four Hours in the W.\ter. — Arrival in the Crescent City 150

CHAPTER VIII.

NEW ORLEANS.

Bienville and thf. City of the Past. — French and Spanish Rule in the New World. — Louisiana ceded to xi-ie United States. — Captain Eads and his Jetties. — Transportations of "Cereals to Europe. — Charles Morgan. — Creole Types of Citizens. — Levees and Crawfish. — Drainage of the City into Lake Pontchartrain i95

CHAPTER IX.

ON THE GULF OF MEXICO.

Leave New Orleans. — The Roughs at Work. — Detained AT New Basin. — Saddles introduces Himself. — Camping on Lake Pontchartrain. — The Light-House of Point aux Herbes. — The Rigolets. — Marshes and MosqyiTOES. — Important Use of the Mosquito and Blow-fly. — St. Joseph's Light. — An Exciting Pull TO Bay St. Louis. — A Light-keeper lost in the Sea. — Battle of the Sharks. — BiLOxi. — The Water-cress Garden. — Little Jennie 209

CHAPTER X.

FROM BILOXI TO CAPE SAN BLAS.

Points on the Gulf Coast. — Mobile Bay. — The Hermit OF Dauphine Island. — Bon Secours Bay. — A Cracker's Daughters. — The Portage to the Perdido.— The Portage from the Perdido to Big Lagoon. — Pensacola

X CONTENTS.

Bay. — Santa Rosa Sound. — A New London Fisherman. — Catching the Pompano. — A Negro Preacher AND White Sinners. — A Day and a Night with a Murderer. — St. Andrew's Sound. — Arrival at Cape San Blas 240

CHAPTER XI.

FROM CAPE SAN BLAS TO ST. MARKS.

A Portage across Cape San Blas. — The Cow- Hunters. — A Visit to the Light-House. — Once more on the Sea. — Portage into St. Vincent Sound. — Apalachicola. — St. George's Sound and Ocklockony River. — Arrival at St. Marks. — The Negro Postmaster. — ■ A Philanthropist and HIS Neighbors. —A Continuous and Protected Water-Way from the Mississippi River to the Atlantic Coast 273

CHAPTER Xn.

FROM ST. MARKS TO THE SUWANEE RIVER.

Along the Coast. — Saddles breaks down. — A Refuge with the Fishermen. — - Camp in the Palm Forest. — Parting with Saddles. — Our Neighbor the Alligator. — Discovery of the True Crocodile in Florida. — The Devil's Wood-pile. — Deadman's Bay. — Bowlegs Point. — The Coast Survey Camp. — A Day aboard the "Ready." — The Suwanee River. — The End 288

ILLUSTRATIONS.

Drawn by F. T. Merrill. Engraved by John Andrew & Son.

PAGE

Shanty-Boats. — The Champion Floaters of the

West, Frontispiece.

Diagram of Parts of Boat, 14

Indian in Canoe, 28

The Start. — Head of the Ohio River, 31

Indian Mound at Moundsville, West Virginia, ... 54

A Night under a German Coverlet, 78

Popular Idea of the Nesting of Cranes, iii

Stern-wheel Western Tow-Boat pushing Flatboats, 114

Meeting with the Parakeets, .125

Dying in his Boat, 177

Boyton descending the Mississippi, 187

New Orleans Roughs amusing Themselves, . . . .214 Arrival at the Gulf of Mexico. — Camp Mosquito, . 239

The Portage across Crooked Island, 269

Saddles breaks down, 292

Parting with Saddles, , 302

Last Night on the Gulf of Mexico, 322

xi

LIST OF MAPS

DRAWN AND ENGRAVED AT THE

UNITED STATES COAST AND GEODETIC SURVEY BUREAU,

TO ILLUSTRATE N. H. BISHOP S BOAT VOYAGES.

PAGB

I. General Map of Routes followed by the Author DURING two Voyages made to the Gulf OF Mexico, in the Years 1874-6, . . Opposite i

GUIDE MAPS OF ROUTE FOLLOWED

in duck-boat "centennial republic," along the gulf of mexico, in 1 876.

2. From New Orleans, Louisiana, to Mobile Bay,

Alabama, Opposite 209

3. From Mobile Bay, Alabama, to Cape San Blas,

Florida, Opposite 247

4. From Cape San Blas, Florida, to Cedar Keys,

Florida, Opposite 273

MAP SHOWING RIVER AND PORTAGE ROUTES

across florida from the gulf of mexico to the atlantic ocean.

5. Route followed by the Author in Paper Canoe

"Maria Theresa," in 1875, .... Opposite 31c

xii

MAP OF ROUTES F"OL LOWED BY H.H. BISHOP IN PAPER CAfJOE"MARIA THERESA" V

AND DUCK BOAT'CENTENNIAL REPUBLIC" / ;

X^

U '

lllllj.lj

FOUR MONTHS IN A SNEAK-BOX.

CHAPTER I.

THE BOAT FOR THE VOYAGE.

CANOES FOR SHALLOW STREAMS AND FREQUENT PORTAGES. — SNEAK-BOXES FOR DEEP WATERCOURSES. HISTORY AND DE- SCRIPTION OF THE BARNEGAT SNEAK-BOX. — A WALK DOWN EEL STREET TO MANAHAWKEN MARSHES. — HONEST GEORGE, THE BOAT-BUILDER. THE BUILDING OF THE SNEAK-BOX "CEN- TENNIAL REPUBLIC." — ITS TRANSPORTATION TO THE OHIO RIVER.

THE reader who patiently followed the author in his long "Voyage of the Paper Canoe," from the high latitude of the Gulf of St. Lawrence to the warmer regions of the Gulf of Mexico, may desire to know the reasons which impelled the canoeist to exchange his light, graceful, and swift paper craft for the comical-looking but more commodious and comfortable Barnegat sneak-box, or duck-boat.

Having navigated more than eight thousand miles in sail-boats, row-boats, and canoes, upon the fresh and salt watercourses of the North American continent (usually without a companion), a hard-earned experience has taught me that while the light, frail canoe is indispensable for exploring shallow streams, for shooting rapids, and for making long portages from one watercourse to another, the deeper and more continuous water-ways may be more comfortably traversed in a stronger and heavier boat, which offers many of the advantages of a portable home.

To find such a boat — one that possessed many desirable points in a small hull — had been with me a study of years. I commenced to search for it in my boyhood — twent3^-five years ago; and though I have carefully examined numerous small boats while travelling in seven foreign countries, and have studied the models of miniature craft in museums, and at exhibitions of marine architecture, I failed to discover the object of my desire, until, on the sea-shore of New Jersey, I saw for the first time what is known among gunners as the Barnegat sneak-box.

Having owned, and thoroughly tested in the waters of Barnegat and Little Egg Harbor bays, five of these boats, I became convinced that their claims for the good-will of the boating fraternity had not been over-estimated; so when I planned my second voyage from northern America to the Gulf of Mexico, and selected the great watercourses of the west and south (the Ohio and Mississippi rivers) as the route to be explored and studied, I chose the Barncgat sneak-box as the most comfortable model combined with other advantages for a ^'oyager's use. The sneak-box offered ample stowage capacit}^, while canoes built to hold one person were not large enough to carry the amount of baggage necessary for the voyage; for I was to avoid hotels and towns, to live in my boat day and night, to carry an ample stock of provisions, and to travel in as comfortable a manner as possible. In fact, I adopted a very home-like boat, which, though only twelve feet long, four feet wide, and thirteen inches deep, ■was strong, stiff, dry, and safe; a craft that could be sailed or rowed, as wind, weather, or inclination might dictate, — the weight of which hardly exceeded two hundred pounds, — and could be conveniently transported from one stream to another in an ordinary wagon.

A Nautilus, or any improved type of canoe, would have been lighter and more easily transported, and could have been paddled at a higher speed with the same effort expended in rowing the heavier sneak-box; but the canoe did not offer the peculiar advantages of comfort and freedom of bodily motion possessed by its unique fellow-craft. Experienced canoeists agree that a canoe of fourteen feet in length, which weighs only seventy pounds, if built of wood, bark, canvas, or paper, when out of the water and resting upon the ground, or even when bedded on some soft material, like grass or rushes, cannot support the sleeping weight of the canoeist for many successive nights without becoming strained.

Light indeed must be the weight and slender and elastic the form of the man who can sleep many nights comfortably in a seventy-pound canoe without injuring it. Cedar canoes, after being subjected to such use for some time, generally become leaky; so, to avoid this disaster, the canoeist, when threatened with wet weather, is forced to the disagreeable task of troubling some private householder for a shelter, or run the risk of injuring his boat by packing himself away in its narrow, coffin-like quarters and dreaming that he is a sardine, while his restless weight is every moment straining his delicate canoe, and visions of future leaks arise to disturb his tranquillity.

The one great advantage possessed by a canoe , is its lightness. Canoeists dwell upon the importance of the LIGHT WEIGHT of their canoes, and the ease wth w^hich they can be carried. If the canoeist is to sleep in his delicate craft while making a long journey, she must be made much heavier than the perfected models no"w in use in this country, many of which are under seventy-five pounds' Weight. This additional weight is at once fatal to speed, and becomes burdensome when the canoeist is forced to carry his canoe upon his OWN shoulders over a portage. A sneak-box built to carry one person weighs about three times as much as a well-built cedar canoe.

This remarkable little boat has a history which does not reach very far back into the present century. With the assistance of Mr. William Errickson of Barnegat, and Dr. William P. Haywood of West Creek, Ocean County, New Jerse}-, I have been able to rescue from oblivion and bring to the light of day a correct history of the Barnegat sneak-box.

Captain Hazelton Seaman, of West Creek village, New Jerse}-, a boat-builder and an expert shooter of wild-fowl, about the year 1836, conceived the idea of constructing for his own use a low-decked boat, or gunning-punt, in which, when its deck "was covered with sedge, he could secrete himself from the wild-fowl while gunning in Barnegat and Little Egg Harbor bays.

It was important that the boat should be sufficiently light to enable a single sportsman to pull her from the water on to the low points of the bay shores. During the winter months, when the great marshes were at times incrusted with snow, and the shallow creeks covered with ice, — obstacles which must be crossed to reach the open waters of the sound, — it would be necessary to use her as a sled, to effect which end a pair of light oaken strips were screwed to the bottom of the sneak-box, when she could be easily pushed by the gunner, and the transportation of the oars, sail, blankets, guns, ammunition, and provisions (all of which stowed under the hatch and locked up as snugly as if in a strong chest) became a very simple matter. While secreted in his boat, on the watch for fowl, with his craft hidden by a covering of grass or sedge, the gunner could approach within shooting-distance of a flock of unsuspicious ducks j and this being done in a sneaking manner (though Mr. Seaman named the result of his first effort the "Devil's Coffin"), the bay-men gave her the sobriquet of "sneak-box"; and this name she has retained to the present day.

Since Captain Seaman built his " Devil's Coffin," forty years ago, the model has been improved by various builders, until it is believed that it has almost attained perfection. The boat has no sheer, and sets low in the water. This lack of sheer is supplied by a light canvas apron which is tacked to the deck, and presents, when stretched upward by a stick two feet in length, a convex surface to a head sea. The water w^hich breaks upon the deck, forward of the cockpit, is turned off" at the sides of the boat in almost the same manner as a snow-plough clears a railroad track of snow. The apron also protects the head and :shoulders of the rower from cold head winds.

The first sneak-box built by Captain Seaman had a piece of canvas stretched upon an oaken hoop, so fastened to the deck that when a head sea struck the bow, the hoop and canvas were forced upward so as to throw the water off its sides, thus effectually preventing its ingress into the hold of the craft. The improved apron originated with Mr. John Crammer, Jr., a short tiine after Captain Seaman built the first sneak-box. The second sneak-box was constructed by Mr. Crammer; and afterwards Mr. Samuel Ferine, an old and much respected bay-man, of Barnegat, built the third one. The last two men have finished their voyage of life, but "Uncle Haze," — as he is familiarly called by his many admirers, — the originator of the tiny craft which may w^ell be called miiltum in parvo, and which carried me, its single occupant, safely and comfortably twenty-six hundred miles, froin Pittsburgh to Cedar Keys, still lives at AVest Creek, builds yachts as well as he does sneak-boxes, and puts to the blush younger gunners by the energy displayed and success attained in the vigorous pursuit of wild-fowl shooting in the bays which fringe the coast of Ocean County, New Jersey.

A few^ years since, this ingenious man invented an improvement on the marine life-saving car, which has been adopted by the United States government; and during the year 1875 he constructed a new ducking-punt with a low paddlewheel at its stern, for the purpose of more easily and secretly approaching flocks of wild-fowl.

The peculiar advantages of the sneak-box were known to but few of the hunting and shooting fraternity, and, with the exception of an occasional visitor, were used only by the oystermen, fishermen, and wild-fowl shooters of Barnegat and Little Egg Harbor bays, until the NeAV Jersey Southern Railroad and its connecting branches penetrated to the eastern shores of New Jersey, when educated amateur sportsmen from the cities quickly recognized in the little gunning-punt all they had long desired to combine in one small boat.

Mr. Charles Hallock, in his paper the " Forest and Stream," of April 23, 1874, gave drawings and a description of the sneak-box, and fairly presented its claims to public favor.

The sneak-box is not a monopoly of any particular builder, but it requires peculiar talent to build one, — the kind of talent which enables one man to cut out a perfect axe-handle, while the master-carpenter finds it difficult to accomplish the same thing. The best yacht-builders in Ocean County generally fail in modelling a sneak-box, while many second-rate mechanics along the shore, who could not possibly construct a yacht that would sail well, can make a perfect sneak-box, or gunning-skiff. All this may be accounted for by recognizing the fact that the water-lines of the sneak-box are peculiar, and differ inaterially from those of row-boats, sail-boats, and yachts. Having a spoon-shaped bottom and boAV, the sneak-box moves rather over the Avater than through it, and this peculiarity, together with its broad beam, gives the boat such stiffness that two persons may stand upright in her while she is moving through the water, and troll their lines while fishing, or discharge their guns, without careening the boat; a valuable advantage not possessed by our best cruising canoes.

The boat sails well on the Avind, though hard to pull against a strong head sea. A fin-shaped centre-board takes the place of a keel. It can be quickly removed from the trunk, or centre-board well, and stored under the deck. The flatness of her floor permits the sneak-box to run in very shallow water while being rov\^ed or when sailing before the wind without the centre-board. Some of these boats, carrying a weight of three hundred pounds, will float in four to six inches of water.

The favorite material for boat-building in the United States is white cedar (^Cupressus tliyoides), which grows in dense forests in the swamps along the coast of New Jersey, as well as in other parts of North America. The wood is both white and brown, soft, fine-grained, and very light and durable. No wood used in boat-building can lO FOUR MONTHS IN A SNEAK-BOX.

9 compare with the white cedar in resisting the changes from a wet to a dry state, and vice versa. The tree grows tall and straight. The lower part of the trunk with the diverging roots furnish knee timbers and carlines for the sneak-box. The ribs or timbers, and the carlines, are usually \\ X \\ inches in dimension, and are placed about ten inches apart. The frame above and below is covered with half-inch cedar sheathing, which is not less than six inches in width. The boat is strong enough to support a heavy man upon its deck, and when well built will rank next to the seamless paper boats of Mr. Waters of Troy, and the seamless wooden canoes of Messrs. Herald, Gordon & Stephenson, of the province of Ontario, Canada, in freedom from leakage.

During a cruise of twenty-six hundred miles not ©ne drop of water leaked through the seams of the Centennial Republic. Her under planking was nicely joined, and the seams calked with cotton \vicking, and afterwards filled with white-lead paint and putty. The deck planks, of seven inches width, were not joined, but were tongued and grooved, the tongues and .grooves being well covered with a thick coat of white-lead paint.

The item of cost is another thing to be considered in regard to this boat. The usual cost of a first-class canoe of seventy pounds' weight, built after the model of the Rob Roy or Nautilus, with

FOUR MONTHS IN A SNEAK-BOX. II

all its belongings, is about one hundred and twenty-five dollars; and these figures deter many a young man fi-om enjoying the ennobling and healthful exercise of canoeing. A first-class sneak-box, with spars, sail, oars, anchor, &c., can be obtained for seventy-five dollars, and if several were ordered by a club the}' could probably be bought for sixty-five dollars each. The price of a sneak-box, as ordinarily built in Ocean County, New Jersey, is about forty dollars. The Centennial Republic cost about seventy-five dollars, and a city boat-builder would not duplicate her for less than one hundred and twenty-five dollars. The builders of the sneak-boxes have not yet acquired the art' of overcharging their customers; they do not expect to receive more than one dollar and fifty cents or two dollars per day for their labor; and some of them are even so unwise as to risk their reputation by offering to furnish these boats for twenty-five dollars each. Such a craft, after a little hard usage, would leak as badly as most cedar canoes, and would be totally unfit for the trials of a long cruise.

The diagram given of the Centennial Republic will enable the reader of aquatic proclivities tounderstand the general principles upon which these boats are built. As they should be rated as third-class freight on railroads, it is more economical for the amateur to purchase a first-class boat at Barnegat, Manahawken, or West Creek, in Ocean County, New Jerse}^, along the Tuckerton Railroad, than to have a workman elsewhere, and one unacquainted Avith this peculiar model, experiment upon its construction at the purchaser's cost, and perhaps loss.

One bright morning, in the early part of the fall of 1875, I trudged on foot down one of the level roads which lead from the village of Manahawken through the swamps to the edge of the extensive salt marshes that fringe the shores of the bay. This road bore the euphonious name of Eel Street, — so named by the boys of the town. When about half-way from its end, I turned off to the right, and followed a wooded lane to the house of an honest surf-man. Captain George Bogart, who had recently left his old home on the beach, beside the restless waves of the Atlantic, and had resumed his avocation as a sneak-box builder.

The house and its small fields of low, arable land were environed on three sides by dense cedar and whortleberry swamps, but on the eastern boundary of the farm the broad salt marshes opened to the view, and beyond their limit were the salt waters of the bay, wh^ch were shut in from the ocean by a long, narrow, sand}^ island, known to the fishermen and wreckers as Long Beach, — the low, white sand-dunes of which were lifted above the horizon, and seemed suspended in the air as by a mirage. Across the wide, savanna-like plains came in gentle breezes the tonic breath of the sea, while hundreds, aye, thousands of mosquitoes settled quietly upon me, and quickly presented their bills.

In this sequestered nook, far from the bustle of the town, I found " Honest George," so much occupied in the construction of a sneak-box, under the shade of spreading willows, as to be wholly unconscious of the presence of the myriads of phlebotomists which covered every available inch of his person exposed to their attacks. The appropriate surroundings of a surf-man's house were here, scattered on every side in delightful confusion. There were piles of old rigging, iron bolts and rings, tarred parcelling, and cabin-doors, — in fact, all the spoils that a treacherous sea had thrown upon the beach; a sea so disastrous to many, but so friendly to the Barnegat wrecker, — who, by the way, is not so black a character as Mistress Rumor paints him. A tar-like odor everywhere prevailed, and I wondered, while breathing this wholesome air, why this surf-man of daring and renown had left his proper place upon the beach near the life-saving station, where his valuable experience, brave heart, and strong, brawny arms were needed to rescue from the ocean's grasp the wor victims of misfortune whose dead bodies are washed upon the hard strand of the Jersey shores every year from the wrecks of the many vessels M^hich pound out their existence upon the dreaded coast of Barnegat? A question easily answered, — political preferment. His place had been filled by a man who had never pulled an oar in the surf, but had followed the occupation of a tradesman.

Thus Honest George, rejected by " the service," had left the beach, and crossing the wide bays to the main land, had taken up his abode under the willows by the marshes, but not too far from his natural element, for he could even now, while he hammered a^vay on his sneak-boxes, hear the ceaseless moaning of the sea.

A verbal contract -was soon made, and George agreed to build me for twenty-five dollars the best boat that had ever left his shop; he to do all the Avork upon the hull and spars, while the future owner was to supply all the materials at his own cost. The oars and sail were not included in the contract, but were made by other parties. In November, when I settled all the bills of construction, cost of materials, oar-locks, oars, spars, sail, anchor, &c., the sum-total did not exceed seventy-five dollars; and when the accounts of more than twenty boats and canoe's built for me had been looked over, I concluded that the little craft, constructed by the surf-man, was, for the amount it cost and the advantages

Oneak-cox Uentenniai Republic Length I2feet Weight 200 pounds.

it gave me, the best investment I had ever made in things that float upon the water. Without a name painted upon her hull, and, like the " Maria Theresa " paper canoe, without a flag to decorate her, but with spars, sail, oars, rudder, anchor, cushions, blankets, cooking-kit, and double-barrelled gun, with ammunition securely locked under the hatch, the Centennial Republic, my future travelling companion, was ready by the middle of November for the descent of the v^^estern rivers to the Gulf of Mexico.

Captain George Bogart, attentive to the last to his pet craft, aftectionately sewed her up in a covering of burlap, to protect her smooth surface from scratches during the transit over railroads. The two light oaken strips, which had been screv^^ed to the bottom of the boat, kept the hull secure from injury by contact with nails, boltheads, &c., while she was being carried in the freight-cars of the Tuckerton, New Jersey, Southern and Pennsylvania railroads to Philadelphia, where she was delivered to the freight agent of the Pennsylvania Railroad, to be sent to Pittsburgh, at the head of the Ohio River.

Here I must speak of a subject full of interest to all owners of boats, hoping that when our large corporations have their attention drawn to the fact they will make some provision for it. There appears to be no fixed freighting tariff" established for boats, and the aquatic tourist is placed at the mercy of agents who too frequently, in their zeal for the interests of their employers, heavily tax the owner of the craft. The agent of the Pennsylvania Railroad in Philadelphia was sorely puzzled to know what to charge for a BOAT. He had loaded thousands of cars for Pittsburgh, but could find only one precedent to guide him. " We took a boat once to Pittsburgh," he said, " for twenty-five dollars, and yours should be charged the same." The shipping-clerk of a mercantile house, who had overheard the conversation, interrupted the agent with a loud laugh. " A charge of twenty-five dollars freight on a little thing like that! Why,

MAN, THAT SUM IS NEARLY HALF HER VALUE !

How LARGE was the boat you shipped last fall to Pittsburgh for twenty-five dollars?" "Oh, about twice the size of this one," answered the agent; "but, size or no size, a boat's a boat, and we handle so few of them that we have no special tariff" on them." "But," said the clerk, "you can easily and honestly establish a tariff" if )'-ou will treat a boat as you do all other freight of the same class. Now, for instance, how do common boats rank, as first or third class freight? " "Third class, I should think," slowly responded the agent. " Ease your conscience, my friend," continued the clerk, " by weighing the boat, and charging the usual tariff" rate for third class freight."