Journal of a tour in Marocco and the Great Atlas

Front matter

ie SOS Pe

CORNELL UNIVERSITY LIBRARY

DATE DUE

Preface

THE EXPEDITION of which an account is given in the following pages was undertaken in the year 1871, and it was originally intended that a narrative of the proceedings should be given to the public soon after our return to England. Sir Joseph D. Hooker, who made careful notes throughout the journey, hoped to complete the work without much delay, and actually wrote the greater part of the first two chapters ; but the constant demands upon his time arising from his official duties at Kew, and the important botanical works to which he is a chief contributor, further increased by his election, in 1873, to the Presidency of the Royal Society, so far interfered with the completion of the original design as to compel him to request his fellow-traveller, Mr. Ball, to undertake the completion of the work. The latter was at the time engaged in preparing for publication a memoir on the Flora of Marocco, which has since appeared in the Journal of the Linnwan Society, wherein the botanical collections made during the journey are enumerated and described : and his performance of the task allotted to him has been further delayed by several prolonged absences from England.

As regards many countries visited by travellers a delay of several years in publication might seriously affect the vi PREFACE.

accuracy of a narrative intended to represent the existing condition of the country and its inhabitants; but in the case of Marocco, where, from a comparison with the accounts of early travellers, no notable change is apparent during the last two centuries, the effect of a few years’ interval may be considered insensible. Up to the date of our visit the Great Atlas was little better known to geographers than it was in the time of Strabo and Pliny; and it may be hoped that whatever interest belongs to our journey is as great now as it was at the moment of our return.

The narrative now published is mainly founded on the journals kept by Sir J. Hooker and Mr. Ball, supplemented in some particulars by that of our fellow-traveller, Mr. G. Maw. To the latter we owe a sketch of the Geology of Marocco, which appears in the Appendix. Along with this we have published some interesting contributions received from Mr. H. B. Brady and Mr. Freeman Rogers, as well as some papers upon various matters connected with the physical geography and the flora of Marocco.

It is impossible to present these pages to the public without repeating the expression of our obligations to some of those to whose assistance we largely owe whatever success we were able to attain. Foremost amongst these we must name H. E. Sir John Drummond Hay, K.C.B., British Minister Plenipotentiary in Marocco. From the moment, when, in compliance with the request of Sir J. Hooker, Lord Granville, then Foreign Secretary, instructed our Minister to apply for the permission of the Sultan to visit the Great Atlas, Sir J. D. Hay, by his extensive knowledge of the country and the people, and by his great personal influence, afforded invaluable assistance to the expedition.

PREFACE. Vii

We were also much indebted for assistance and hospitality to the British Consular agents on the Marocco coast, and especially to the late Mr. Carstensen, then Vice-Consul at Mogador. We should not omit our acknowledgments of the courtesy and valuable information received from the late M. Beaumier, French Consul at the same port.

We trust that in the course of the following pages we have not omitted to express our thanks to other friends who have kindly contributed valuable information. The scope of this volume being mainly to give an account of our personal experience and observations, we have used, but sparingly, other materials, which might be in place if we had aimed at the production of a work of a more elaborate character.

Chapter I

Voyage to Gibraltar—View of Tangier—Interior of the town— Portuguese and English occupation—Hospitable reception by Sir John Drummond Hay — Ravensrock—Government of Marocco—Climate of North Marocco—Exceptional season— The Djebel Kebir and its vegetation—Cistus and Heath region—Oape Spartel—Night at the Lighthouse—Cave of Hercules—Arab village—Return to Tangier . : ‘ 1

PAGE

Chapter II

Start for Tetuan—Vegetation of the low country—Serpent charmers—Twilight in the forest—The Fondak — Stormy night on the roof—Breakfast on the hill—Riff Mountains—A Governor in chains—Fate of high officials in Marocco— Valley of Tetuan—Jew quarter of the city—Ascent of the Beni Hosmar—Vegetation of the mountain—A quiet day—Jewish population—Ride to Ceuta—Spanish campaign in Marocco— Fortifications of Ceuta—Return to European civilisation— Spanish convict stations in Africa. ; ‘ . 25

Chapter III

Sail to Algeciras—Vegetation of the neighbouring hills—Comparison between the opposite sides of the Strait of Gibraltar— Return to Tangier—Troubles of a botanist—Fez pottery— Voyage in French steamer—Rabat and Sallee— Land at Casa Blanca—Vegetation of the oe ae ne of the coast climate—Mazagan—View of Saffi i 58 x CONTENTS.

Chapter IV

Arrival at Mogador—The Sultan’s letter—Preparations for our journey—The town of Mogador—The neighbouring country— Ravages of locusts—Native races of South Maroceo—Excursion to the island—Climate of Mogador—Its influence on consumption—Dinner with the Governor : .

Chapter V

Departure from Mogador—Argan forest—Hilly country of Haha —Fertile province of Shedma—Hospitality of the Governor —Turkish visitor—Offering of provisions—Kasbah of the Governor—Ride to Ain Oumast—First view of the Great Atlas—Pseudo-Sahara—Tomb of a saint—Nzelas—Ascend the ‘Camel’s Back’—Oasis of Sheshaoua—Coolness of the night temperature—Rarity of ancient buildings—Halt at Ain Beida—Tents and luggage gone astray—Night at Misra ben Kara—Cross the Oued Nfys—Plain of Marocco—Range of the Great Atlas—Halt under tamarisk tree . . .

Chapter VI

Approach to the city of Marocco—Pleasant encounter—Halt in an olive garden—Interior of the city—Difficulty as to lodging—QGovernor unfriendly—Camp in the great square—Negotiations with the Viceroy—Successful result—Palace of Ben Dreis—Diplomatie difficulties—Gardens of Marocco—Interview with El Graowi . ; .

Chapter VII

Choice of a route in the Atlas—Difficulty of procuring information—Hills near the city—Panorama of the Great Atlas— Probable height of the range—Wild birds of Marocco—Condition of the Jews—Departure from the city—Farewell interview with El Graoui—District of Mesfioua—Interview with the Kaid—Approach to the Great Atlas—Aspect of the vegetation — Castle of Tasseremout—Washington’s visit— Jewish suppliants—Great boulder mounds—Ourika valley— Peculiarities of Moorish character—Rapacity of our escort

PAGE

CONTENTS. <i

Chapter VIII

PAGE Vegetation of Ourika valley—Destruction of the native trees— Our progress checked—Enforced return—Shelluh village— Ride from Ourika to Reraya—Trouble with our escort—A friendly Shelluh sheik—Native desire for medical advice— Characteristics of the Shelluhs—Zaouia of Moulai Ibrahimn— Camp in Ait Mesan valley—Excursion to the head of the

valley—Reach the snow—Night travelling in the Atlas . 175

Chapter IX

The Shelluh sheik bribed — Arrangements for stopping at Arround—Medical practice among the Shelluhs—Arabic correspondence— Unexpected difficulty—Strange fancies of the natives—Threatening weather—Our house at Arround— Gloomy morning—Saint’s tomb—Escape from our guides— Strange encounter—Snow-storm—Tagherot pass—Descent to Arround—Continuance of bad weather—Sacrifice of a sheep —Shelluh mountaineers—Fauna of the Great Atlas—Return to Hasni—Deplorable condition of our camp . : . 207

Chapter X

Departure from Hasni—Plateau of Sektana—Grand view of the Great Atlas—Departure of Maw—Village of Gurgouri—Intrioues of Kaid el Hashi—Passage of the Oued Nfys—Arrival at Amsmiz—Friendly Governor—Difficulties as to further progress—Position of Amsmiz—Sleeping quarters in the Kasbah—Fanatical sheik —Shelluh market—View of the Amsmiz valley—Village of Iminteli—Friendly Jews—Geological structure and vegetation of the valley—Sheik’s opposition overcome—Ascent of Djebel Tezah—-The guide left behind—View from the summit—Anti-Atlas seen at last— Deserted dwellings on the peak—Ancient oak forest—Rapid descent—Night ride to Iminteli ‘ : : . 239

Chapter XI

Return to Amsmiz—Arround villagers in trouble—Pains and pleasures of a botanist—Ride across the plain—Mzouda— Experiences of a Governor in Marocco—Hospitable chief of xii CONTENTS.

Keira—A village in excitement—Arrival at Seksaoua—Fresh difficulties as to our route—A faithful black soldier—Rock vegetation at Seksaoua—Ascent of a neighbouring mountain —View of the Great Atlas—Absence of perpetual snow— Return of our envoy from Mtouga—Pass leading to Tarudant —Native names for the mountains—Milhain—Botanising in the rocks . :

Chapter XII

Departure from Milhain—Defile of Ain Tarsil—Dwellings of the troglodytes— Arrival at Mtouga— Gloomy evening— Governor’s return from the fight—Prisoners of war—Their fate—Ride to Mskala—A venerable Moor—Return to the Kasbah of Shedma—Poisoned guests—Ride to Ain el-Hadjar —The Iron mountain—Ancient mining work—Eccentric soldier—Ascent of Djebel Hadid—Ruins of Akermout—Ride to Mogador—A Kasbah in als asl on the beach —Return to Mogador .

Chapter XIII

Second stay at Mogador—Plants obtained through native collectors—Outrage committed by the Haha people—Story of the troubles in Haha—Farewell presents to our servants and escort—An unpunctual tradesman corrected—Exports from Mogador—Caravans from Timbuktou—Jewish wedding— Voyage in the Lady Havelock—Land at Safi—Excursion ashore—Land at Mazagan—Return to Tangier, and thence to England ‘

Chapter XIV

Resources of Marocco—Moorish government a hopeless failure —Future prospects of Marocco—Objections to European interference—Answers to such objections

PAGHK

CONTENTS.

APPENDICES.

APPENDIX A.

Observations for determining Altitudes of Stations in Marocco, By Joun Batt ‘

APPENDIX B.

Itineraries of Routes from the City of Marocco through the Great Atlas. By Satomon pew Daovp

APPENDIX C.

Notes on the Geography of South Marocco. By Joun Batt .

APPENDIX D.

On some Economic Plants of Marocco. By JosrpH Darton HooxeEr

APPENDIX E.

A Comparison between the Flora of the Canary Islands and that of Marocco. By JosrPH Datton Hooker .

APPENDIX F.

A Comparison between the Mountain Flora of Tropical Africa and that of Marocco, By JosspH Darron HooxEr

APPENDIX G.

On the Mountain Flora of two Valleys of the Great Atlas. ‘By Joun Batt . . . . : : ‘ xill

PAGE xiv CONTENTS.

APPENDIX H.

PAGE Notes on the Geology of the Plain of Marocco and the Great Atlas. By Guorer Maw, F.G.S., F.L.S., &e. : . 444 APPENDIX I.

Moorish Stories and Fables ‘ : : . 468 APPENDIX K.

On the Shelluh Language. By Joun Bart. ; . 478 APPENDIX L.

Note on the Roman Remains known to the Moors as the Castle of Pharaoh, near Mouley Edris el Kebir. Communicated by Messrs. W. TL, Ricwarpson and H. B. Brapy, F.R.S. » 485 INDEX . ‘ j . F A . + 491 Errata, P. 388, line 10, after ‘ Pharmacographia,’ 502, insert Cosson, in Bull. Soc, Bot. Fr, xxi. 163.

3 394, ,, 4from bottom, for ‘Sus’ insert Sous, s, 395, lines 4 and 9 from top, for ‘Sua’ insert Sous.

ILLUSTRATIONS.

PANORAMA ON THE GREAT ATLAS FROM THE CITY or Marocco ‘ " i . Frontisyece UarE SPARTEL . F ‘ ; : . Title-page TEIUAN . : ‘ i d . To face page 39 SAFFI . : : : : i oa 73 Tower or tur Kovrovsta at Marocco. ‘ s 142

Great Attias FRoM LowrrR VALiEy or Air

Mausan . : ; F ; ’ rn 193 West Enp or Taz Marocco ATLAS FROM SEKTANA 3 242 Dsepret Trzan FROM IMINTELI . . ‘ ey 257

GEOLOGICAL SECTION OF THE PLAIN or Marocco

AND THE GREAT ATLAS : : ‘ 9 466

WOODCUTS IN TEXT.

PAGE ARGAN TREES , : Fy ‘ ; <. to “OF ReEep ScrEEN FOR Locust DESTRUCTION : : . 159

Fort at TasspREMOUT . = : i * « 166 xvi ILLUSTRATIONS.

PAGE Houses at ARROUND . é ‘ . ' . 215 IsoLaTED Mass IN GREAT ATLAS . 7 . » . 265 Cirer Sucrion, SaFFI . . : . : . 451 RoruLoIpEA FIMBRIATA (Etheridge) . ‘ » « 452 CatcarEous Crust (Surface and Section) 2 . . 455 ‘Cammn’s Back, FLAT-TOPPED HILLS IN THE PLAIN oF Marocco , . , . . . 456 BoutpgrR Mounds, sxirtine AtTias PuarEau EscaRPMENT (Section and Surface) i . . . 459, 460 Roman Ruins oF VoLvuBILis . . . 487 Movrpine or Dovsis INrERLAcED Linzs : » . 488

MAP

A New Map or Sour Marocoo, by Joun Batt, F.R.S. At the end of volume.

q.

JOURNAL

OF A

TOUR IN MAROCCO.

Chapter I

Voyage to Gibraltar—View of Tangier—Interior of the town—Portuguese and English occupation—Hospitable reception by Sir John Drummond Hay—Ravensrock—Government of Marocco—Climate of North Marocco—Exceptional season—The Djebel Kebir and its vegetation—Cistus and Heath revion—Cape Spartel—Night at the Lighthouse—Cave of Hercules—Arab village—Return to Tangier.

On Saturday, April 1, 1871, our party, consisting of Sir Joseph (then Dr.) Hooker, Mr. Maw, and Mr. Ball, with a young gardener, named Crump, from the Royal Gardens at Kew, left Southampton for Gibraltar, in the Peninsular and Oriental Company’s Steamship Massilia.

Even for the ordinary tourist it is a pleasant thing to turn his face towards the South in the early part of the year, and to feel that he is about to exchange six or eight weeks of bitter easterly winds for the bright skies and soft breezes of the Mediterranean region. Still more does the botanist rejoice to quit the poverty of our slowly unfolding spring flora for the wealth of varied vegetation that is spread around the shores of the Inland Sea. But for us, the occasion was one of deeper and more special interest. We were starting, under unusually favourable conditions, to explore a country which, though close to Europe, is among the least known regions of the earth. Although the obstacles we were sure to encounter and the limited time at our disposal, might not allow us to accomplish much,

B

2 OUR PARTY. cH.

we felt a confident hope that we should learn something of a great mountain chain all but absolutely unknown to geographers, and be able to fill up some missing pages in the records of our favourite science. The thrill of pleasurable anticipation at the prospect of setting foot within the boundaries of terra incognita was heightened by the fact that for each of us this land of Marocco had long been the object of especial interest and curiosity.

From an early period Hooker had conceived the desire to explore the range of the Great Atlas, to become acquainted with its vegetation, and to ascertain whether this supplies connecting links between that of the Mediterranean region and the peculiar flora of the Canary Islands. This desire was increased during a journey in Syria, in 1860, made in company with Admiral Washington, the late Hydrographer of the Navy, one of the very few Europeans who had reached the flanks of the Great Atlas chain, when, as a young naval officer, he accompanied the late Sir John Drummond Hay on his mission to the city of Marocco in 1829.

Maw had already made collections of living plants in the neighbourhood of Tangier, and had also visited Tetuan, where he had pushed his excursions farther than any but one preceding traveller.

Ball had landed at Tetuan in 1851 with the hope of attaining some of the higher summits of the neighbouring Riff Mountains; but the disturbed state of the country in that year made it impossible to advance beyond the immediate outskirts of the city.

From the moment when it seemed likely that the permission to visit the Great Atlas sought for by Hooker, through the intervention of our Foreign Office, would be accorded by the Sultan of Marocco, no time was lost in making the requisite preparations. Although everything was done within about a fortnight, our equipment was tolerably complete ; and when, after the first’ excitement of departure had subsided, we thought it over on board

CH. 4. PREPARATIONS FOR THE JOURNEY. 3 ship, we found but one serious omission to deplore. Two mercurial barometers, provided by Hooker, had been entrusted to Crump, and were by him left behind at the last moment. Thus, in the important matter of determining heights, we were forced to rely upon aneroid barometers and boiling water observations. It was fortunate that Ball carried an excellent aneroid, by Secrétan of Paris, which has before and since been severely tested in the Alps with very satisfactory results, and whose indications during our journey agreed closely with those given by the thermometer in boiling water.

Among the various preparations made for our journey there was none more important for our purpose than a manuscript catalogue of all the plants hitherto known or believed to have been found in the Empire of Marocco, which we owed to the kindness of our excellent friend M. Cosson, the eminent French botanist. Up to that date the information to be found in books was extremely scanty, and scattered throughout various systematic works, and the whole when summed up would have given a most incomplete account of the two or three districts partially explored by botanists. M. Cosson, by his unequalled knowledge of the North African flora, and by careful study of all the collections made in Marocco, many of which are in his exclusive possession, was the only person who could have supplied the materials which were so serviceable throughout our journey.

In the agreeable society of old friends and new acquaintances, whom we met on board the rather crowded steamer, the voyage to Gibraltar did not appear too tedious, but we were well pleased when, on the afternoon of the 6th, the moment came for landing.

We. were not destined to see much of the famous ‘Rock’ or its native ‘scorpions,’ whether biped or hexapod. Scarcely had our voluminous baggage been transported to the hotel, when news reached us that an English steamer was about to sail within two hours for Tangier,

B2

4 ARRIVAL AT TANGIER. cH. I.

and we at once decided that not a moment’s time should be wasted. Back again our heavy goods, in which botanical paper was a chief ingredient, were carried to the mole, and after paying the innkeeper a pretty heavy ransom, on account of rooms ordered but not used, and a hastily swallowed dinner, we once more found ourselves afloat. So much haste was not necessary, for the steamer did not start till some time after midnight; but the time was not badly spent, for the steamer was one of those that ply between London and the Canary Islands, touching at the ports on the Atlantic coast of Marocco; and the skipper, who was an old stager, and had formed his own opinions about the country, had plenty of information, of a more or less authentic, but mainly discouraging, character, which he was most ready to impart.

The distance from Gibraltar to Tangier is not more than thirty-five miles, and we came to anchor in the open roadstead soon after daylight on April 7. Unlike the ports on the Atlantic coast, the shape of the land here gives some protection from the prevailing westerly seas and winds; but in other respects this is a bad one. The ruined mole, round which sand has accumulated, forms on one side a dangerous reef, and elsewhere the shore shelves very slowly to a moderate depth. Ships of any burthen are forced to lie out far from shore, and the landing from boats is usually effected on the backs of Jews, inasmuch as no Moslem will degrade himself by performing such a service for a Christian.

On Good Friday the Jews were all engaged in the ceremonies of the Passover; but, as the sea was unusually calm, we were able to land on the ruins of the mole, and, after floundering through slippery seaweed, we were not long in reaching the sea gate of the city.

We had already perceived that, although no longer in Europe, we were yet under the shadow of European manners and customs. High above the city walls we espied, as we neared the shore, several conspicuous inscriptions,

CH. 1. ASPECT OF THE TOWN. 5 announcing the titles of various places of entertainment. In the centre the ‘ Hotel de France’ gave promise of culinary skill; but we preferred the ‘Royal Victoria Hotel,’ whose title, in quite gigantic letters, first attracted our notice, and which had been well recommended for cleanliness and comfort. Our subsequent experience justified the choice, and we had every reason to be satisfied with the attention we received from the intelligent and obliging coloured proprietor, Mr. Martin.

Tangier stands on the western side of a shallow bay, on rocky ground that rises steeply from the shore. Westward the hills gradually rise in swelling undulations towards the Djebel Kebir, or Great Mountain, covered with dwarf oaks and flowering shrubs, that ends in the promontory of Cape Spartel. On the opposite, or eastern, side the shores of the bay are low and sandy, but are backed by the rugged range of the Angera Mountains, culminating in the Ape’s Hill opposite Gibraltar.

As seen from the sea the town has a singular, though not an imposing, appearance. Cubical blocks of whitewashed masonry, with scarcely an opening to represent a window, rise one above another on the steep slope of a recess in the hills that faces the NE. A few slender square towers belong to as many mosques of paltry proportions. Numerous consular flagstaffs remind the European that he still enjoys the protection of his own government, and on the summit of the hill a massive gaunt castle of forbidding aspect shows where he might expect to lodge if that protection were removed, and he were to give offence to the native functionaries. Zigzag walls encompass the city on all sides, pierced by three gates, which are closed at nightfall.

The stranger, who knows that Tangier is one of the most important towns of Marocco, and the residence of the representatives of the chief civilised States, is apt to be shocked when he first sets foot within its walls. The main street is as rough and steep as the most neglected of

6 FOREIGN INFLUENCE. CH. 1.

Alpine mule-tracks, and disfigured by heaps of filth— importunate beggars of revolting aspect, led about by young boys, assail him at every step—there is no bazaar, as in eastern towns, and the miserable shops are mere recesses, where, in an unglazed opening, little larger than a berth in a ship’s cabin, the dealer squats surrounded by his paltry wares.

On longer acquaintance, he will somewhat modify his first unfavourable impression. Unlike the towns of Southern Europe, where the main thoroughfares are cared for by the local authorities, while filtn is allowed to accumulate in the byeways, the dirt and offal are here let to lie under his nose in the most public places, while the steep narrow lanes—reminding him of Genoa—that intersect the masses of closely packed houses, are generally kept clean and bright with frequent whitewash. The silent dead walls that front the public thoroughfares conceal the interiors of houses that are rarely opened to the eyes of Europeans, but are not wanting in the signs of wealth and of artistic taste. The dread of arbitrary exactions, that elsewhere in Marocco drives the Moor as well as the Jew to conceal the possession of property as carefully as men elsewhere hide the evidence of guilt, is less keenly felt here. For in and around Tangier, but nowhere else in this country, it may be said that life and property are tolerably secure, not only from outward violence, but from the caprice and cupidity of men in authority. The presence of foreign diplomatic agents, and the constant communication with Europe, have brought the Moorish authorities at this spot to some extent under the control of civilised opinion, and the disastrous encounters with France and Spain have convinced the Moor that, with all his personal bravery, he cannot resist the regular forces of his European neighbours, and must not provoke an unequal conflict.

Such historical recollections as are connected with

CH PORTUGUESE OCCUPATION. 7

Tangier are not flattering to the self-love of the two nations of Europe that have had most to do with it.

In 1437 the Portuguese, who then held Ceuta, attacked the town, but their army was defeated under the walls, and they were forced to conclude an ignominious peace. The terms included the cession of Ceuta to the Moors, and the delivery as a hostage of Dom Fernando, the king’s brother. The other stipulations not having been executed, the victors threw Dom Fernando into prison at Fez, and when he died in captivity hung up his body by the heels over the city walls.

The fortune of war was changed in 1471 when the Portuguese took Tangier and several of the towns on the Atlantic coast, and the Moorish Sultan was forced to pay tribute to King Emanuel. Under less vigorous guidance, the Portuguese were unable to retain their ascendancy, but they kept possession of Tangier till, after nearly two centuries, it was, by a secret treaty, ceded to England as part of the dowry of Catharine of Braganza on her marriage with Charles II. When the brave Governor Dom Fernando de Menezes received the information, he entreated the Queen Regent to spare him the grief of seeing the city made over to the enemies of the Catholic faith. Her answer was the offer of a Marquisate if he obeyed, and dismissal from her service if he persisted in resisting her will. He chose the latter, threw up his command, and devoted the rest of his life to writing a history of the city. The English Court set great store by the new acquisition, believing, as the Earl of Sandwich said, that if it were walled and fortified with brass it would yet repay the cost. But English policy was then at its lowest ebb, and neither vigour nor intelligence directed any branch of our affairs. The English settlers sent out were an ill-conditioned rabble, ignorant of the country, its

\ This episode forms the subject of Calderon’s noble play—-£7 Prencipe Costante.

8 ABANDONED BY THE ENGLISH. CH. 1.

language and manners, and the Governor and the garrison were no better than the rest. After accomplishing one useful work by constructing a mole that converted the roadstead into a secure harbour, they were disappointed in their expectation of an extensive trade with the interior, and, what was more galling, were worsted in every encounter with the Moors, till, in 1685, the Government in London decided to abandon Tangier. When this became known at Lisbon, the Portuguese strongly urged the impolicy of abandoning such a position to pirates, and requested that it should be restored to them on condition that the English should have free use of the port. With characteristic meanness and imbecility the Duke of York —soon afterwards James [J.—opposed the gift, and urged that the honour of England required that the place should be dismantled, and be left for occupation to whoever could hold it. His advice prevailed; and, on the retirement of the English force, the mole was effectually blown up, destroying the only good harbour for shipping on the seaboard of Marocco—a distance of fully nine hundred miles.

Nature, however, has made Tangier the port of North Maroceo, and, in spite of human perversity, it is a place of some importance. Ready access to the fertile provinces lying between the Straits of Gibraltar and Fez has made it the centre of a considerable trade in hides and grain, which go to France and England, to say nothing of cattle and other supplies for the garrison of Gibraltar. Its nearness to Europe has made it the residence of the representatives of the principal civilised Powers, and its admirable climate has attracted invalids from Gibraltar and elsewhere, in spite of such drawbacks as dirt, bad smells, and the utter absence of roads.

On our arrival, we were most kindly received by Sir John Drummond Hay, to whose intimate knowledge of the country and justly acquired influence with the Moorish Court we are largely indebted for whatever success at-

CH. 1. RIFF MOUNTAINS INACCESSIBLE, 9 tended our journey. We learned from him that the Sultan had issued orders to the Governor of the Atlas provinces to allow Hooker to visit the range of the Great Atlas south of the city of Marocco, and to take every precaution for his comfort and safety; but he added that, although there was no reason to doubt the Sultan’s good faith, every artifice would be used to defeat the object, and that it would not be prudent to start for the south without an autograph letter from the Sultan himself, for which he had already made application. The Court was at this time at Fez—several days’ journey from Tangier; and, as business moves at a slow pace in this country, it was probable that we might have to wait some time for the necessary document. We therefore at once decided on devoting the interval to excursions in the neighbourhood of Tangier and Tetuan. The latter city lies at no great distance from the lofty peaks of the Benz Hassan, probably the highest part of the north-western range of the Lesser Atlas, best known as the Riff Mountains. There could be no doubt as to the botanical interest attaching to a visit to that range, the higher region of which is entirely unknown to naturalists, and we were very desirous to make an attempt in that direction. After full consideration, however, Sir J. D. Hay felt it necessary to object to our project, as involving undue risk. The Riff mountaineers enjoy a virtual independence, merely paying tribute to the Sultan. They are fierce and fanatical; and the presence of a Christian on the highest mountain, which is rendered sacred by a famous marabout—tomb of a Mohammedan saint—would be regarded asa profanation. Meantime, we were led to hope that we should be able to ascend the mountains nearer to Tetuan, and there was no difficulty whatever about excursions in the neighbourhood of Tangier.

Our first walk, in the afternoon of the 7th, was in the agreeable society of Sir J. D. Hay, to Ravensrock, his summer residence, on the wooded slope of the Djebel

10 RAVENSROCK. ‘ CH.

Kebir, overlooking the straits. Near the city gate we passed the cemetery, where turbaned tombstones almost disappear amidst the copious growth of prickly pear (Opuntia vulgaris), and then went some way through dusty lanes between lines of American aloe (Agave americana), and quickset hedges surrounding gardens where palms, acacias, and a few poplars were the prevailing trees, As we cleared the enclosures, and got into irregular, open ground, where steep slopes of uncultivated land alternate with patches of tillage, our eyes were gladdened by the sight of many a bright southern flower, already blossoming abundantly, in spite of the weather which, till lately, had been unusually cold. Trefoils, Medicagos, vetches, and other leguminous plants were here the predominant forms, as they are everywhere in the spring flora of the Mediterranean region. As we began to ascend the flanks of the Djebel Kebir, the character of the vegetation changed. Where the ground has not been cleared to make a garden for some of the European residents, whose little villas are scattered over the slope, the ground is covered with masses of luxuriant shrubs, and climbing herbaceous plants, among which some familiar forms of the North are mingled with many exotic species. Thus we saw roses, brambles, bryony, honeysuckle, and white convolvulus holding their ground amidst masses of lentisk, myrtle, Phillyrea, Alaternus, dwarf prickly oak (Quercus coccifera), gum cistus, and the golden profusion of five or six species of the Cytisus tribe that replace our native broom and gorse. After ascending several hundred feet by the roughest of paths, carried along a shaded gully, we entered through a gate the terraced garden whereon stands the house.