A journey round the world in the years 1875-1876-1877

Front matter

iOiata, Nrai fork

CHARLEa WILLIAM WASON

COLLECTION

Chapter I. AlWAM, OR COCHIN-CHINA

PAG-BS

Voyage from China to Cochin-China — Saigon Eirer — Monkeys — Crocodiles — ^Saigon — rrenohmen not good Colonists — Market-place at Saigon — Palace of Justice — Palace of his Excellency the QoTcmor of the Colony — PubUo Gardens — Botanical Gardens — Menagerie — Population of Saigon — Siesta at noon — Town of Cho-len — Famous for its Kice-stores — Many Chinese reside at Cho-len — Difficulties thrown in our way on expressing a desire to Visit the Interior of Annam or Cochin-China and Cambodia — Climate — -Products of Annam — Elephants and Ehinoceroses — Annamese — Diet — Brief Account of French Cochin-China — Eirer Meikong — Province of Mytho — Major Henry — !Frenoh Jealousy — Province of Viuklong — Kude French Priest . . . . , . . . . . . . . . I-14

Chapter II. CAMBODIA

Arrival at Phnom-Peng — Debarkation —Hospitality of his Excellency the French Protector — King of Cambodia grants us an interview — Deportment of the King — Conversation — -The Palace — Throne Eoom — Theatre — Body Guard — Eoyal Stables — White Elephants — Iron Palace — Funeral Pyre — Interview with the Second King — Conversation — Cambodia has suffered from Civil Wars — Summary Execution of a Eebel Chieftain — Arch-Abbot of Buddhism — Prison and Prisoners — ^Wats or Temples — Chinese Temples — ^Account of Kwan-tai, God of War — Streets of Phnom-Peng — Merchants — Pariah Dogs — Commercial products of the Country — ^Forests — Gutta-Percha Tree — Beasts of Burden — Eeligion of the Cambodians — ^An account of Buddha — Tenets of Buddha — Cambodian Marriage Ceremony — Funeral Ceremonies — Cremation — Games and Amusements — Journey into the Interior of Cambodia — Eiver Mesap — Birds — Ichneumon — Town of Kum-poong-Loong — ■ Wat or Temple— Mai-ket-place— Salt Fish— Fish Oil — Funeral

VIU CONTENTS.

PAGES

ProcesBiou — Kum-poong-he-leit — ^Trading Vessels — Purchase a Fat Pig — Euin-poo-oliee-nong — Floating Houses — Water Vessels and Furnaces— A Marriage — A PUot -wanted — Monkeys ^Grreat Lake of Thay -lay-Sap — Many Birds — ProTince of~ Siamrap — Journey from the head of the Lake to Siamrap City — Accommodation at Siamrap — Death of Wife of GTovemor of Siamrap — Dine with the Goyernor — Theatricals — City of Siamrap — Eide on an Elephant — Buins of Angor-Wat — Ancient City of Angor-Tam — Ceremony observed on a Cambodian Youth attaining the age of Puberty — Our return to Phnom-Peng 15-74

Chapter III. SINGAPORE

Arriyal at Singapore — Malayan Divers — Hospitahty of Captain Caldbeck — Brief Sketch of Singapore — Streets — Town Hall — Theatre — rLibrary and Beading Boom — Cathedral of St. Andrew — Goal — Mutiny in the Gaol — Death of the Governor of the Gaol — Chinese Temple — ^Public Gardens — Gardens of the Honourable Mr. Ho (Whampoa) — Cemetery — Pine-apple Garden — Gaylang Eoad — Cocoa-nut Plantations — Gambia Plantation — Pepper Plantation — Tapioca Plantation — ^WUd Pigs — Other Wild Animals . . . . 75-95

Chapter IV. JOHORB AND MALACCA

Journey to Johore — Brief Account of Johore — Breakfast at the Palace — A Railroad in Johore — New Locomotive Engine — Gambler Plantation — Pepper Plantation — Water-spout — Malacca — Brief Sketch of Malacca — Court House — Gaol — English Church — Boman Catholic Church — Hill of St. Paul ^Francis Xavier — Bazaars — Chinese Hongs — Shops in which Stuffed Birds are Sold — Mohammedan Mosque — Plantation of Cocoa-nut Trees — ^An Alligator — Inhabitants of Malayan

Peninsula — BeUgion of Malays — Products — Tin Mines

Hot Springs 1 96-102

Chapter V. SIAM

Voyage to Siam— Gulf of Siam— Island of Tioman— Mode of capturing Fish— Curing Fish— Bangkok— The Wat or Temple of Sleeping Buddha— Several graceful Dagobas or Pagodas—

CONTENTS. IX

PAGES

Wat Olieng or Wat Shang — ^Wat Conlayer — Nemis — Colossal Idol of the Last Buddha — ^Wat or Temple in !Fonu of a Chinese Junk; — Tower of Babel — Buddhist Priests — ^triests supported by the People — Bangkok, the Venice of Asia — Water Streets and Floating Houses — The King's Palace — King's Body Gruard — The Wat Phran Kean, or Temple of the Emerald Idol — Old Audience Hall — New Audience Hall — Treasury Buildings — Museum — Stable containing White Elephants — Ehinoceros — ^Wild Beasts— rjar of Sacred Oil- Singular Manner in which it was obtained — Cunning of Tickery — Place where Dead Bodies are exposed to be devoured by Dogs and Birds — Funeral Pyres on which Bodies are Burned — Gkirden of Siamese Minister for Foreign Affairs^- Cemetery — ^Ancient City of Ayuthia — Trap in which Wild Elephants are caught — Elephants useful as Beasts of Burden — Deserted City of Ayuthia — Its History — Constantine Phaulkon — His Works — His Death — Appearance of Country — Herds of BufEaloes — Black Buffaloes — White Buffaloes — Products of Siam — Pariah Dogs — Cats — Crows — Lizards — Took-kas 103-146

Chapter VI. PENANG AND PEOYINOE WELLESLET

Arrival at Penang — Meaning of the name Penang — Harbour of Penang — Mountain Hange — Fertile Plains — Products of Penang — ^Forests — G-roves of Aieca Pahns — G-eologioal Formation of Penang — City of Georgetown — Inhabitants of Penang — English Church — Monximent in honour of the Marquis of Comwallis — Monument in honour of Francis Light, Esq. — Brief Account of Francis Light, Esq., and of the Island of Penang — Eoman Catholic Church — Mohammedan Mosque — Cemetery — Eoads — ^VOas in which Europeans Keside — Mountain Eesidences — Wayside Inn — ^Water-miU — Small Hindoo Temple — ^Waterfall-— Baths — Province Wellesley — Cocoa-nut Plantations — Cattle — Steam Eice-mill — Eiver and Ford — Sugaj-'Cane Plantations — Indigo Lands— Brief Account of Province WeUesley .. .. .. .. .. 147-155

Chapter VII. BUEMAH

Amherst — Eiver Salween — Moulmein — Many European Ships in Harbour — Cargoes of Teak Timber — Moulmein a Flourishing Port — Saw-miU — Strength and Docility of Elephants .

X CONTENTS.

, FA&ES

employed in Timber-yardB — Temple or Pagoda containing

Idol of Sleeping Buddha — Impreasion or Print of Buddha's

Foot — Burmese' Women, each carrying a Child on her Hip —

Large Dagoba on the top of the HiLL — An Idol of Sleeping

Buddha — A Representation of a large Turtle — Obtain from

the top of this Hill a fine View of Moulmein — ^English Church

— Soman Catholic Church — Hindoo Temple — Mohammedan

Mosque — Cemetery — Cares — G-ulf of Martaban — ^Bangoon

Eiyer, or Eastern ' Branch of Irrawaddy — PUot — Brief Sketch

of Baugoon — Public G-ardens — ^Phayre's Museum — Military

G-ardens — ^Barracks — Kangoon Lake — An EngUsh ETangelist

— Large White Dagoba in the centre of Bangoon — ^An Enclosed

Market-place or Bazaar — The Shoe Dagon Prah or Grolden

Dagoba — ^Large BeU — Mohammedan Mosque — Hindoo Temple

— G-aol — ^English Church — Monastic or Collegiate Institutions

— ^Pupils receiving Instruction — Corpse of a Buddhist Priest

— Euneral — Hindoo Procession — Burmese Costumes — Bodies

Tattooed — ^Pood — ^Marriage Ceremonies— Funeral Ceremonies

— National Keligion of Burmah — Buddhist Priests — Despotic

Form of Grovernment — Products of the Country — ^Wild and

Domestic Animals — Brief Sketch of Burmah — ^An Account of

Colonel Browne's Attempt to Cross the Burmese Frontier en

Chapter VIII. INDIA

Calcutta — Glarden Ecaoh — Palace of King of Oude— Fleet of Merchantmen at the Anchorage, Calcutta — Palace of the GoTernor-Q-eneral — Town Hall — High Court of .Tudicature — Museum — Fort WUliam — New Mint — Black Hole of Calcutta — G-aol — St. Paul's Cathedral — Lunatic Asylum — Educational Establishments — ^PubHo Monuments — Public Gardens — Esplanade— Game at Polo — Streets and Eoads — Eoads Watered — Vehicles or Conveyances — Burjiing Ghauts — Kalighaut — Mohammedan Mosque — Hindoo Festivals — Origin of Calcutta — Barrackpore — Governor-General's Palace and Grounds — Menagerie — Lady Canning's Tomb^Cantonments — Serampore Court-house — ^Temple in honour of Juggemauth — Baptist College — ^WUliam Carey, Baptist Missionary — Colonel Bie, Danish Governor of Serampore — Baptist Chapel — Cemetery at Serampore — Mahogany Trees planted by Carey — Tomb of Gokooli — ^Tomb of Carey — Benares — Bridge of Boats — Sekrole, the European Quarter of Benares — Streets — Houses — Ganges, a Sacred River — Ghauts — Fakirs — Burning Ghauts — Many Deities Worshipped in Benares — Principal Divinity Siva or

CONTENTS. Xi

FAaES

Mahadeo, the Creative Energy — Many Lingas — Temple of Bhaironath — Temple of Danpau — Well of Fate — Temple of Bisheawar — Well of Knowledge — Sacred Bulb — Manikarnika Well — Durga Kund Temple — Sacred Monkeys — Mosque of Aurungzebe — Buddhist Kuins at Samath — Allahabad — Lucknow — Cawnpore — Agra — Secundra — ^FuttehporeSikree — Delhi — Ferozabad — Kootub and its Buins — Jubbelpore — ^Nandgaum — Aurunzabad — ^Dowlertabad — Caves of EUorar^Bombay — Caves of Elephanta — ^Matharen — Q-hauts — Khandalla — Caves of Khalee — Lanowlee — Poonah— Kurrachee — MuggarPir 198-332

Chaptee IX.

ARABIA.

Voyage from Kurrachee to Muscat — Our Fellow-voyagers — ^H.M.S. " Nimble '' — Shoal of Porpoises — Island of Chunar — ^Flocks of Sea Birds — Eoc^ called Fahil — Muscat Harbour — Town of Muscat — Sultan's Palace — Fort Merani — Old Portuguese Custom-house— Portuguese Cathedral — Government House — Church or Cloister in which more than two centuries ago several Portuguese Monks were murdered by Arabs — Streets or Bazaars — Bedouins — Pariah Dogs — Caves in which Arabs reside — ^Well of Pure Water — Asylums for aged or infirm Cows, Dogs, Fowls, and other creatures — Hot Springs at Bosur — An Aocoimt of the Province of Oman — Eehgion of the Inhabitants of Oman — Tenets of the Ibadhi Sect. . . . 333-350

Chapteu X.

PERSIAN GULF AND PERSIA.

Town of Muttra — Larak — Khismis — Ormus — Mounds of Salt — Ancient Portuguese Fort — Bundar Abbas — Luft — Linga — Bushiie or Abus-char the town of Abu-Sudzebad — Kushire or Beschire — Kharrak — Foa — Mahombrah . . . . 351-364

Chaptee XI.

MESOPOTAMIA, BABYLONIA, AND ASSYRIA.

Bussorah — Maaghil — Eiver Tigris — Amarai — Kurnah — Garden of Eden — ^Tomb of Ezra — ^Ali-Gherby — Kut al Amarah — Ctesiphon — Selucia — Desert — Bedouins — ^Babylon — HiUah — Birs- Nimroud — Baghdad — Kazemain — Ager Kouf — Biver Euphrates— KifErey— Eetum to Bombay — Aden — Bed Sea . . 365-439 xu

CONTENTS.

Ohaptee XII.

EGYPT.

Suez — Embarkation of Pilgrims for Mecca — Cemeteries — Wells of Moses — ^Ismaila — Cairo — Mosque of Ghama-el-Banat — Mosque of Sultan Glioree — Mosque of Chief of the Dervishes — Mosque of Mahomet-Ali-Pasha — Citadel — St. Joseph's Well — Mosque of Sultaji Hassein — Mosque of El-Eefi — Large Square — ^Dutoh Auction — Howling Dervishes at Mosque HiUmeah — Mosque of St. Catherine — Mosque of St. Lazarus — Mosque — Tombs of the Pashas — Tombs of the Caliphs — Gardens of Khedive — Public Grardens — Q-ardens of Count Chicolani — Horse and Camel Fair — Old Cairo — Church of Holy Virgin Mary — Church of Aboo-sa-fayre — Church of St. George — Bazaars at Cairo — VUlage of El-Matareeyeh — Sacred Tree and Well — HeHopolis — Prison — Museum — Processions — Pyramids of Gizeh — Sphinx — Pyramid of Meydoum — Pyramids of Sakara — Tomb of Sacred BuUs — Memphis — ^Alexandria — Pompey's Pillar — Cleopatra's Needle, &o. , .

440-461

Chaptbe XIII.

PALESTINE.

Port Said — Jaffia — ^Boad to Jerusalem — Eamleh — Emmaus-^ Jerusalem— Greek Convent — Church of the Holy Sepulchre — Armenian Convent and Church of St. James — Convent and Church of St. Mark — Convent and Church of the Holy Cross — Synagogues — Mosque of Omar — Mosque el-Aksa — Mosque of Sidna Issa — ^Vaults — -Golden Gate — Pool of Hezekiah — ^Lower Pool of Gihon — Upper Pool of Gihon — Pool of Bethesda— Csenaculum — Supposed Tomb of David — Palace of Caiaphas — Greek Cemetery — ^English Cemetery — Sir Moses Montefiore's Almshouses — Tower of David, or Tower of Hippicus — ^Waihngplaoe of the Jews — ^Bazaars — ^ViS. Dolorosa — Palace of Pontius Pilate — Place of St. Stephen's Martyrdom — Brook Kedron — Garden of Gethsemane — Tomb of the Virgin Mary — Mount of Olives — Latin Church — Mosque of Jebel TAr — ^Valley of Jehoshaphat — ^Tombs of Absalom, Zechariah, St. James, and Jehoshaphat — Well of the Virgin Mary — Pool of Siloam — Pool of Joab or Nehemiah — Eetreat of the Apostles — Aceldema — Ancient Tombs — HUl of Evil Council — Valley of Hinnom — ^Cave of Bezetha — Cave of Jeremiali — Ash Mounds — ^Tombs of the Kings — Bethany — Tomb of Lazarus — ^Bethlehem— Pools of Solomon — Eamah — Leda — Beyrout. . . ,

462-490

CONTENTS. XIU

Chapter XIV. .^GEAN SEA AND ASIA MINOR.

PAGES

dis— Philadelphia 491-505

Chapter XV.

TURKEY.

Mitylene — Tenedos — Chanak-kalesai — Sea of Marmora — Conataiitinople — ^Mosque of Santa Sophia — Mosque of Suliman the Magnificent — ^Mosque of Sultan Achmet — Mosque of Mohammed II — Mosque of Bayazid II — Mosque of Shahzadeh — Tulip Mosque — Cistern of Coustantine — Hippodrome — Column of Theodosius — Obelisk formerly covered with Plates of Brass — Serpentine Column — Burnt Column — Etmeiden — Museum of Ancient Ottoman Costumes — ^Tower of GralatS/ — Dancing Dervishes — ^Bazaars — Scutari — ^Howling Dervishes — Turkish Cemetery— English Cemetery . . . . . . 506-528

Chapter XVI.

GREECE AND THE IONIAN ISLANDS.

Syra — Peirseus — Athens — ^Acropolis — Propylsea — Temple of Victory— Parthenon — Ereotheum — Temple of Theseus — Areopagus—Pnyx — Prisons of Socrates — HilLof Musseus — Tower of the Winds — ^Fountain of Callirrhoe — Arch of Hadrian — Temple of Jupiter Olympus — Ceramicua — Old and New Cathedrals — Chamber of Eepresentatives — Q-reek Cemetery — Marathon — Eleusis — Zante — Cephalonia — Corfu . . . . 529-545

Chapter XVII.

ITALY.

Brindisi — Naples — Church of St. Januarius — Church of St. Domenioo Maggiore — Church of Santa Chiara — Church of G-esu Nuovo — Grotto di Posilippo — Tomb of Virgil— Campo Santo — Pompeii — Herculaneum — Mount Vesuvius — An Earthquake — Kome— St. Peter's Cathedral— S. Andrea Delia Valle— Sta. Maria Sopra Minerva— Church of II Gesu — Church of Sta. Anastasia^-Sta. Maria Maggiore, &c., &o., &c. — Pisa— Cathedral— Baptistery— BeUry, or Leaning Tower — Campo Santo — Florence — Cathedral — Belfry— Baptistery-Church of La Santa Crooe- Church of San Lorenzo— Laurentian Library

CONTENTS.

— GU Ufflcii— Venice— Cathedral of St. Mark— Doge's Palace —St. Mark's Scjuare— Church of St. GHovanni e Paolo- Church of St. Maria dei Prari— G-raud Canal— Milan— The Cathedral— Aroo deUa Paoe-«^Cireo, or Amphitheatre — Santa Maria DeUe Grazie — Last Supper, by Leonardo da Vinci — Public Gardens, &o., &e., &c.

546-582

Chaptbe XVIII.

BAVARIA.

Tyrol — Munich — Public Monuments — Statue of Maxinuliau I — Statue of Ludwig I — Statue of Maximilian II — Statue of Bararia — HaU of Heroes — Pynacothek — Glyptothek — Propyloea — Ludwig's Church — Church of St. Maria — Au Suburb — Frauen Church, or Cathedral — Church of St. Michael — Basilica of St. Boniface — Cemetery

583-586

Chapter XIX.

AUSTRIA.

Vienna — TSevf Parade — Joseph Square — ^Imperial Palace — Church of St. Stephen — Church of St. Augustin — Church of the Capuchins— Church of St. Michael — Suburbs — ^Belvidere Palace — Church of St. Charles Barromeo — People's Gkirden — The Prater

387-590

Chaptbb XX.

SAXONY.

Dresden — Eoyal Palace — Royal Audience Chamber — Porcelain Cal)inet — Audience Chamber — Parade Chamber — Green Vault — Koyal Chapel or Court Church — StaUgebaude — Armoury — Cabinet of Casts — Picture Gtallery — Palace of Princes— New Theatre — Kaufmann's Acoustic Cabinet — Bruhl Terrace — Old Bridge — Japanese Palace — ^Zoological Gkirdens

591-594

Chafiie XXI.

PRUSSIA AND GERMANY".

Breslau — Statue of Bluoher — Statue of Frederick the Great — Statue of Frederick William III — Eathhaus — Scourging Column — Cathedral of St. John — Church of the Holy Cross — Church of St. Mary— Church of St. Dorothea— Oels—BerUn—

CONTENTS. XV

PA&BS

Brandenburgh Gate — Palace — Museum — Cathedral — Schlossbrucke — ^Exchange — Synagogue — Aquarium — Houses of Parliament — Cbarlottenbiirgh — . Thiergarten Park — Zoological Gtedens — Hanover — Cologne — Cathedral — St. Ursula — St. Gereon— St. Peter . . . : 595-604

Chapter XXII.

BELGIUM.

Brussels — Galerie St. Hubert — Grande Place — Hotel de Ville — Maison du Eoi — Statue of Godfrey de Bouillon — Martyrs' Monument — Column of Congress — Public Fountains — Cathedral— Notre Dame de la ChapeUe — Notre Dame des Viotoires — Museum — Park — "Waterloo — Visit to the Palace . . . . 605-609

Chaptek XXIII.

FRANCE.

Railway Accident — Paris — Madeleine — Venddme Column^St. Germain — Tomb of James II of England — Journey to England— Eetura to China vi& the United States of America and Japan 610-612

A JOURNEY

EEEATA.

Page 126. In 21st Hue, instead of " capture," read " captives.' Page 158. In 12th line, instead of "colossal Uon," read "a colossal lion."

Page 299. In 23rd line, instead of "there stands," read "there stand."

Page 379. In I4th line, instead of "Erza," read "Ezra."

Page 479. In 18th line, instead of " miracle St. John re. corded," read " miracle recorded."

Page 480. In 4th hne, instead of " pursuasion," read " persuasion."

Page 492. In 31st line, instead of " sailing alone," read " sailing along."

felt a desire to return, for a season at all events, to England," the land of our nativity and the home of our fathers. We, therefore, on the 14th day of January, a.d. 1875, embarked, at Hong-Kong, with a view to the gratification of that desire, on board the steam-ship " Anadyr," which vessel is one of a large steam-fleet belonging to the "Messageries Maritimes Compagnie," of France. After a very pleasant voyage of four days, we arrived at Saigon, the capital city of a large territory, which to-day is naturally termed, as it belongs to France, Cochinchine Fran9aise, or French Cochin China. Our approach from the sea to Saigon was by

B

A JOURNEY

CHINA TO ENGLAND.

Chapter I. ANNAM, OE COCHIN-CHINA

Voyage from China to Cochin-China — Saigon Kiver — Monkeys — Crocodiles — Saigon — Frenchmen not good Colonists — Market-place at Saigon — Palace of Justice — Palace of his Excellency the Grovernor of the Colony — Public Q-ardens — Botanical Gardens — Menagerie — Popiilation of Saigon — Siesta at noon — Town of Cho-len — Pamous for its Kioe-stores — Many Chinese reside at Cho-len — Difficulties thrown in our way on expressing a desire to Visit the Interior of Annam or Coohin-Ohina and Cambodia— OHmate — Products of Annam — Elephants and Khinoceroses — Annamese — Diet — Brief Account of French Cochin-China — River Meikong — Province of Mytho — Major Henry — French Jealousy — Province of Vinklong — Rude French Priest.

Our readers cannot be surprised when we state that, after an uninterrupted residence of twenty-three years in China, we felt a desire to return, for a season at aU events, to England, the land of our nativity and the home of our fathers. We, therefore, on the 14th day of January, a.d. 1875, embarked, at Hong-Kong, with a view to the gratification of that desire, on board the steam-ship " Anadyr," which vessel is one of a large steam-fleet belonging to the "Messageries Maritimes Compagnie," of France. After a very pleasant voyage of four days, we arrived at Saigon, the capital city of a large territory, which to-day is naturally termed, as it belongs to France, Cochinchine Franqaise, or French Cochin China. Our approach from the sea to Saigon was by

B a' deep meandering river, the banks of which are thickly covered with mangrove-tr6es. These woods of mangrovetrees contain, together with other animals, many monkeys. In the earlier days of the French possession of a portion of Cochin-China, these creatures, being in no fear of man, used to occupy the tops of the trees. Now, however, owing not only to the increased traffic on the river, but also to the deadly fire which used to be directed against them by European voyagers, they have evidently withdrawn for safety to the . inner and more secluded parts of the forest. The river, too, at one time, contained, it is said, many crocodiles. Now such amphibious creatures, for the reasons already given, are seldom seen.

Any one visiting the city of Saigon need not, we think, be told that it is neither a British, nor an American, nor a German colony, inasmuch as the decay and apparent neglect which, at almost every step, attract the eye of the keen observer, prove beyond all- reasonable doubt, that it is a possession in the hands of an European nation, the inhabitants of which never have been, and apparently are not at aU likely to become, even at any future period, good and useful colonists. Frenchmen, whether at home or abroad, entertain, so it appears to us, owing to their Uttle-mindedness and its inseparable concomitant, an inordinate vanity, a most insatiable thirst for military glory. This feeling, fuUy occupying their mindSj withers and blights all habits of an industrious or active natrtre, or, at all events, causes their energies to flow in channels, or to be directed towards ends, which are essentially military and warlike. Energies so employed fail, we think, in bringing either upon a nation or the colonies which she may possess, those blessings which are, undeniably, the inevitable and sure heritage of all people who regard and foster commerce and agriculture as the chief good. Now, in almost all respects, the French colony of Saigon contrasts most unfavourably with the neighbouring British colony of Hong-Kong. The former is, in truth, bestrewed with the seeds of decay, while the latter is, comparatively speaking.

overshadowed with the umbrageous braaches of the tree of scarcely ever-failing commerce. The one is intersected with bad roads, the other with well-macadamised ways. The one is formed of streets of indifferent-looking houses, while the other may oe called a city of palaces. Again, the streets of the former are lighted with oil, while those of the latter are resplendent with gas. In short, there is between the two colonies in question little or no comparison, the superiority of Hong-Kong being, in almost aU respects, so well marked and so much more perfectly defined. Saigon, however, is not without some pleasing features. Thus, for example, it possesses a spacious and well-covered market-place, and in which, for vendors of^aU kinds of wares, there are many convenient stalls. A visit to this place failed not to afford us great pleasure and interest. The Palace of Justice is, also, an imposing- looking building. It is, of course, within the walls of this edifice that not only all civil causes, but charges, also, which are preferred against criminals, are investigated by properly constituted judges of assize.

The most imposing building, however, of which Saigon can boast, is the palace of his Excellency the Governor of the colony. It is of vast extent, and equals, if not surpasses, in point of architectural design and splendour, many of the palaces of Europe. Its erection cost, as our readers may weUimagiae, a very considerable outlay of French capital. The public gardens, too, which are in close proximity to the Governor's palace, are tolerably extensive. The plan in which the lawns and paths have been laid out, is an indisputable evidence of the exquisite taste and artistic skill of the designer. To these gardens each evening of the year, the heat of the day being over, almost all the beauty and fashion of Saigon resqrt for recreation ; and once or twice weekly an additional charm is imparted to this delightful promenade by sweet strains of music, which a military band ever and anon discourses. About the time of our visit to Saigon, these beautiful gardens were the scene of a very sad and

B 2

4 ANNAM, OE COCHIN-CHINA.

melancholy casualty. A Trench gentleman, who was one of the leading, certainly one of the most opulent, merchants of Saigon, whilst walking one evening with some friends in the gardens, without a moment's warning, fell to the ground and died. This sudden death took place in the presence of many persons, and caused, of course, no ordinary degree of consternation and sorrow.

But let us. now proceed to observe that the Botanical Gardens of Saigon, which we also visited, do not display in their general arrangement the same degree of neatness and care as do the gardens to which, in the preceding sentence, we have referred. They present a forsaken, and neglected appearance. Nor are the plants which they contain either sufficiently numerous or altogether rare as to afford gTatification to an accomplished and well-trained botanist. The zoologist, however, may find interest in visiting these gardens, inasmuch as they contain some very fine specimens not only of the natural history of Cochin-China, but of the zoology, also, of the neighbouring nations. Of the animals which these gardens contain, a tiger and tigress are pre-eminently fine specimens. They are very large beasts, and their skins are beautifully striped, and bright and glossy to a degree. There are, also, several very 'good specimens of leopards, wolves, bears, wild cats,, snakes, ichneumons, monkeys, deer, wild cattle, goats, and wild boars. Of the zoological treasures, however, which this garden contains, we have not as yet exhausted the list, 'inasmuch as no reference has as yet been made to a very large and neatly-constructed aviary. To enumerate the various birds with which it is stocked, would tend, perhaps, to weary our readers. Let it suffice, therefore, for us to state that it contains feathered creatures of many species, and, of course, of almost every variety of size and hue.

The population of Saigon consists of French, Germans, English, Chinese, and Annamese, or Cochin-Chinese, as they are more generally styled. Of the inhabitants in question, the Europeans are in a great minority, the Chinese and An-

ANNAM, OE COCHIN-CHINA. 5

namese fa* outnumbering them. As French Cochin-China, of which Saigon, the capital of a province of the same name, is the chief city, is situated in lat. 9° 5' — 10° N., and long. 105° — 107° E., the heat, excepting, perhaps, during the months of October, November, and December, is very great. As a rule, therefore, all the European residents deem it hecessary to take a siesta in the middle of the day, in order, as they say, to preserve their health. Thus from meridian until three o'clock in the afternoon there is, daily, on the part of all the European citizens of Saigon, an entire suspension of business and of every social emjoyment. In this uimecessary mid-day rest, or idleness, as it may be more properly termed, the industrious Chinese do not indulge. On the contrary, their shops and stores are open from an early hour in the morning until a late hour in the evening, for they regard it as an imperative duty, which they owe not only to themselves but to their families, to work steadily through out the day, knowing well that the night speedily cometh when no man can work. Thus to the Chinese inhabitants of Saigon, this daily self-indulgent act appears unnecessary and uncalled for.

Having inspected Saigon, we, in the next instance, went with Captain and Mrs. Waterson in their pony carriage along a wide but indifferently macadamised road, to the market town of Cho-len, which town is situated at a distance of four or five English miles from the aforesaid city of Saigon. It is a large town, and is in a great measure occupied by Chinese. Indeed for the itnportance which, as a place of trade, it to-day possesses, it is entirely indebted, not to the industry and enterprise of the French, nor yet of the Annamese, but rather to the steady mercantile perseverance of the Chinese. The staple commodity of the place is rice, a cereal of which two crops are annually reaped. Thus Cho-len is consequently one of the largest rice markets of which the eastern part of Asia can boast. The rice hongs or stores of Cho-len, which are large and numerous, are all, we need scarcely observe, in the hands of Chinese proprietors. Of the rice, which, as a rule, is sold in a wholesale measilre at Cho-len, large quantities are conveyed to China for the service of the teeming population of the southern province of that great country.

From Cho-len we returned to Saigon by a rpad which skirts the river. Many of the- houses which we passed on our way, the dwellings of Annamese, were of very rude construction, and apparently dirty to a degree. "We were, however, greatly pleased to see large fleets of native junks, with which the river at certain intervals was crowded. The Vessels in question bring cargoes of rice from the producing districts, and fail not on their arrival to give employment to many hundreds of the poorer and humbler inhabitants of Saigon.