At the Court of the Ameer. A narrative

Front matter

■ I if I I i I i ■ i J ■ ■ I ■ _■ ■ AT THE COURT OF THE AMIR - //{<■ - ( Jf / // ■ ('■/ - (/(/ft if // fjfif H . Aom i> //'it /,/',,</ '■// Mir ■ ('is/rc'i . AT THE COURT of the AMIR A NARRATIVE BY JOHN ALFRED GRAY, M.B. Lond. Late Surgeon to H. H. The _t_vi_R of Afghanistan HAND-MADE AFGHAN RUPEE STAMPED "AMIR ABDURRAHMAN." LONDON RICHARD BE NT LEV AND SON publishers in ©ritinarg irr fj.r i(r_ (Queen 1895 [All Rights .Reserve..] THE APOLOGY. I would not have thought of inflicting a book on my long-suffering fellow-countrymen, but for the wish expressed by my publishers : for '■ Every fool describes iu these bright days His wondrous journey to some Foreign Court." In Afghanistan however, difficult of access, and hence comparatively unknown, there have been, since that strong man Amir Abdurrahman ascended the Throne, such remarkable changes in the ad ministration of the country, and such strides towards civilization, that it was thought a narrative of life there, throwing, possibly, some light on the personality of the Monarch, and on the "bent" of the people, might be of general interest.

The book has been written in the intervals of professional work, and, with its shortcomings of diction and style, the only merit it can claim — that of " local colour " — is due to the fact that it was compiled from the letters I wrote from Afghanistan to her who is now my wife. Wadiiam Lodge, Uxbridge Road, Ealing, W. PAGE 1 1G 31 CONTENTS. CHAPTEE I. On the Eoad to Kabul The start and the wherefore. Unsettled condition of Afghanistan. Departure from Peshawur. Jumriad Fort and the Watch-tower. The Afghan guard. The Khyber defile. Eccentricities of Rosinante. Lunch at Ah Musjid. Pathan villages. Pathans, their appearance and customs. Arrival at Landi-Kotal Serai. The Shenwari country. Caravan of Traders. Dakka. Dangers of the Kabul River. Mussaks. Camp at Bassawal. Chahardeh. Mountain road by the river.

Distant view of Jelalabad. CHAPTEE II. Arrival, at Kabul Arrival at Jelalabad. Reception by the Governor. The Palace. The Town. The Plain. Quarters iu the Guest Pavilion. The friendly Khan. Tattang and the gunpowder factory. The Royal gardens at Nimla. The Sussed Koh Mountains. Arboreal distribution in Afghanistan. Gundamuk. Assassination of Cavagnari : details of the plot. The "Red bridge." Commencement of mountainous ascent to Kabul. Jigdilik. Massacre of British in 1837- Former dangers of the valley of Katasang. Enterprising peasants. Tomb in the Sei Baba valley. Burial customs. The Lataband Pass and the Iron Cage. Distant view of Kabul, The Amir's projected road at Lataband. The approach to Kabul. The Lahore Gate. CHAPTEE III. The Eeception Position of Kabul. Its defences. Amir's opinion of the Founders of his Capital.

Chapter I

On the Road to Kabul. The start and the wherefore. Unsettled condition of Afghanistan. Departure from Peshawur. Jumrud Fort and the Watch-tower, The Afghan guard. The Khyber defile. Eccentricities of Rosinante. Lunch at Ali Musjid. Pathan villages. Pathans, their appearance and customs. Arrival at Landi Kotal Serai. The Shenwari country. Caravan of Traders. Dakka. Dangers of the Kabul River, Mussaks. Camp at Bassawal. Chakardeh. Mountain road by the river. Distant view of Jelalabad. It was with no small amount of pleasurable ex citement that I donned the Afghan turban, and with Sir S alter (then Mr.) Pyne and two other English engineers, started from Peshawur for Kabul to enter the service of the Amir. I had made the acquaintance of Mr. Pyne in London, where I was holding a medical appoint ment.

He had returned to England, after his first short visit to Kabul, with orders from the Amir to buy machinery, procure engineering assistants, and engage the services of an English surgeon. I gathered from his yarns that, for Europeans at the present day, life among the Afghans was likely to be a somewhat different thing from what it was a few years ago. In the reigns of Dost Mahomed and Shere Ali it was simply an impossibility for a European to J take up a permanent residence in Afghanistan; in fact, except for occasional political missions, none was allowed to enter the country. We do, indeed, hear of one or two, travelling in disguise, who managed to gather valuable facts concerning the country and its inhabitants, but we learn from their narratives that the hardships they were forced to undergo were appalling.

For ages it has been a proverb among the natives of India that he who goes to Kabul carries his life in his hand. They say, " Trust a cobra, but never an Afghan ; " and there is no denying the fact that the people of Afghanistan have had the credit from time immemorial of being a turbulent nation of highway robbers and murderers. If there were any chance of plunder they spared not even their co religionists, and, being fanatical Mahomedans, they were particularly " down " on any unfortunate traveller suspected of being a Feringhi and an infidel. A busy professional life following upon the engrossing studies of Hospital and University, had given me neither time nor any particular induce ment to read about Afghanistan, so that when I left England I knew very little about the country. However, on reaching India I found plenty of people ready enough to enlighten me.

I heard, from officers who had been on active service in Afghanistan in 1880, of the treacherous and vindictive nature of the people; of the dano-er when they were in Kabul of walking in the town except in a party of six or seven ; of the men who, even taking this precaution, had been stabbed. I Departure from Peshawur. 3 heard, too, a great deal about the assassination of the British envoy in Kabul, Sir Louis Cavagnari, in 1879; of the highway dangers of the two hundred mile ride from the British frontier to Kabul, and, remembering that we were about to trust our lives absolutely for some years to the good faith of these proverbially treacherous Afghans, it struck me we were in for an experience that was likely to be exciting. What actually happened I will relate. We were all ready to start from Peshawur one day in March, 1889.

The Amir's agent, a stout and genial old Afghan, named Abdul Khalik Khan, had provided us with turbans, tents, and horses ; we had received permits from the Government to cross the frontier, and our baggage was being loaded on the pack-horses when a telegram arrived directing us to await further orders. We were informed that there was fighting among the Pathans in the Khyber, and we were to postpone our departure till it was over. This seemed a healthy commencement. Three days afterwards, however, we were allowed to proceed. The first day's march was short, simply from the cantonment across the dusty Peshawur plain to Jumrud fort : about nine miles. The fort, originally built by the Sikhs in 1837, has been repaired and strengthened by the British, who now hold it. It is said, however, to be of no very great value : one reason being because of the possibility of its water supply being cut off at any time by the Afghan killmen.

The servants, with the pack-horses and tents, took up their quarters in the courtyard, but we four accompanied the officer in charge up to his rooms in the watch-tower. From here we had an extensive view over the Peshawur valley. The entry to the Khyber was about three miles off to the west. We had left the cantonment early in the afternoon, and soon after our arrival it became dark. We dined, and were thinking of turning in to prepare for our long hot ride on the morrow, when we found, instead, that we should have to turn out. The fort was not an hotel, and had no sleeping accommodation to offer us. I looked at Pyne. The baggage was down there in the courtyard, some where in the dark, and our bedding with it. Should we ? No ! we would roll up our coats for pillows, throw our ulsters over us, and sleep on the platform outside the tower.

We were proud to do it. But— the expression "bed and board" appealed to my feelings ever afterwards. We had an early breakfast. In the morning we found the guard of Afghan cavalry waiting for us in the travellers' caravansary near the fort. There were about forty troopers — " the Amir's tag-rag," as the British subalterns disrespectfully called them. They were rough-looking men, dressed more or less alike, with turbans, tunics, trousers, and long boots. Each had a carbine slung over his shoulder and a sword at his side. A cloak or a rug was rolled up in front of the saddle and a couple of saddle bags strapped behind. They carried no tents. I cannot say they looked smart, but they looked useful. Of the individual men some were rather Jewish in type, good-looking fellows — these were Afghans ; and one The Khyber Pass. 5 or two had high cheek-bones and small eyes — they were Hazaras.

All were very sunburnt, and very few wore beards. This last fact surprised me ; I had thought that Mahomedans never shaved the beard. It is, however, not at all an uncommon thing for soldiers and officers in the Afghan army to shave all but the moustache ; but I learnt that in a Kabul court of law, when it is necessary in swearing to lay the hand upon the beard, that a soldier's oath is not taken : he has no beard to swear by. The baggage was sent off under a guard of about a dozen troopers. We followed with the rest and entered the gorge of the Khyber. It is a holiday trip now-a days to ride or drive into the Pass. You obtain a permit from the Frontier Political Officer, and are pro vided with a guard of two native cavalrymen, who conduct you through the Pass as far as Landi Kotal. This is allowed, however, on only two days in the week, Mondays and Thursdays — the Koffla, or merchant days.

The Khyber Pathans have entered into an agreement with the Government that for the pay ment of a certain subsidy they will keep the Pass open on those two days : will forbear to rob travellers and merchants. Doubtless it is an act of great self denial on their part, but they keep faith. Riding along the Pass one sees posted at intervals, on rock or peak, the Pathan sentry keeping guard. He is a fine-looking man, as he stands silently in his robes : tall, with black beard and moustache. His head may be shaven or his long hair hang in ringlets over his shoulders. He wears a little skull cap with, may be, a blue turban wound carelessly round it : a loose vest reaching the knee is confined at the waist by the ample folds of the cummerbund, or waist shawl. In this is thrust a pistol or two and a big ugly-looking knife.

The short trousers of cotton, reaching half-way down the leg, are loose and not confined at the ankle like the townsman's "pyjamas." On the feet he wears the Afghan shoe with curved up toe : the ornamental chapli or sandal of leather : or one neatly made of straw. Draped with classical beauty around the shoulders is the large blue cotton lungi, or cloak. If the morning is cold the sheepskin postin is worn, the sleeves of which reach to the elboAV. If it rain the postin is reversed, ancl the wool being outside shoots the wet off. The next day's sun dries it. The rifle he has may be an old English musket, a Martini-Henry or a native jezail, but, whatever it be, in the Pathan' s hands it is deadly. The scenery in the Khyber is rugged and wild, the only vegetation being stunted bushes and trees at the bottom of the gorge.

The rocky cliffs rise precipitously on either side, and gradually closing in, are, at a little distance from the entry, not more than three or four hundred feet apart. The road at one time leads by the stream at the bottom of the gorge, and later creeping up the mountain it winds in and out round the spur3 or fissures half-way up the face of the cliff. It is a good broad road, made, and kept in excellent repair, by the British. Nevertheless, I was far from happy : my mare, accustomed to a town, was frightened by the rocks, the sharp turns, and the precipices, and desired to escape somewhere, anywhere — and there was no parapet. Eccentricities of Eosinante. 7 By-and-bye, however, we descended and were in a stony valley, for the Pass varies in width from ten or twelve feet to over a hundred yards.

Mr. Pyne suggested a canter. A canter! I knew the mare by this time, and I had on only a hunting bit. Off we went. Pyne had a good horse, a Kataghani that had been given him in Kabul, but we swept ahead, my bony mare and I, much to Pyne's disgust — and mine, for I couldn't hold her. Roads ! what were roads to her ? Away she went straight up the valley, and such a valley ! The ground was covered with pebbles and big stones, and cut up by dry watercourses wide and narrow. The narrower gulleys she cleared at a bound, the wider she went headlong* into and out of before I had time to hope anything. I soon was far ahead of the guard, only the Captain managed to keep somewhere in my wake, shouting, " Khubardar," " Take care ! " I yearned to khubardar with a great yearn, for in addition to the danger of breaking my neck was that of being shot.

Sawing at the reins did not check her, and at last I flung myself back, caught the cantle of the saddle with my right hand, and jerked at the curb. I was tossed in the air at every stride, and my loaded revolver thumped my hip at each bound, but her speed diminished, and at last she gave in and stopped, panting and snorting. Then the Captain came clattering up, and I was obliged to turn the mare round and round or she would have been off again. The Captain smiled and said, " Khob asp," " It is a good horse." "Bally," I said, which means "Yes." We adjusted the saddle and waited till the others came up. Pyne remonstrated with me and told me I ought not to have clone such a thing, it was not safe I He viewed it as a piece of eccentricity on my part. About eight miles from Jumrud, and where the defile is narrow and precipitous, is the Ali Musjid fort.

This is built on a high, nearly isolated, rocky hill to the left or south of the road. The small Musjid, or Mosque, from which the place takes its name, stands by the stream at the bottom of the defile. It was erected, according to tradition, by the Caliph Ali. The fort, which is called the key of the Khyber, has at different times been in possession of Afghans and British. We hold it now. The last man we dislodged was General Gholam Hyder Khan, Orak zai, who was then in the service of Amir Yakub Khan. He is now Commander-in- Chief of the Amir's army in Kabul and Southern Afghanistan. He is a big stout man, about six feet three inches in height. When I saw him in Kabul he did not seem to bear any malice on account of his defeat. There is another General Gholam Hyder, a short man, who is Commander-in-Chief in Turkestan, and of whom I shall have occasion to speak hereafter.

At Ali Musjid we sat by the banks of the streamlet and hungrily munched cold chicken and bread; for Mr. Pyne had suggested at breakfast our tucking something into our holsters in case of necessity : he had been there before. Beyond Ali Musjid the narrow defile extended some distance, and then gradually Avidening out we found ourselves on an elevated plateau or table-land, bounded by not very high hills. The plain was some miles in extent, and we saw Pathan villages dotted Pathans ; their Appearance and Customs. 9 here and there, with cornfields surrounding them. The villages were fortified. They were square, sur rounded by a high wall with one heavy gate, and with a tower at one or all four corners. The houses or huts were arranged inside in a row against the wall, and being flat roofed and the outer wall loopholed there was at once a "banquette" ready for use in case the village should be attacked.

The mountains and valleys of the Khyber range and of the other Indian frontier mountains are inhabited by these semi-independent Afghans called, collectively, Pathans or Pukhtana, There are many learned and careful men among the Government frontier officers who are at present investigating the origin and descent of the Pathan tribes. The Khyberi Pathan whom I have described as the "guard" of the Pass is a fair type of the rest. The men are quarrelsome, are inveterate thieves, but are good fighters. Many of them enter the British service and make excellent soldiers. They are divided into a great number of different tribes, all speaking the same language, Pukhtu, or Pushtu, and bound by the same code of unwritten law, the Pukhtanwali. The neighbouring tribes, however, are jealous of one another and rarely intermarry.

There is the vendetta, or law of retaliation, among them, and almost always an ancient feud exists between neighbouring villages. The women, unlike the Mahomedan townsAvomen, are not closely veiled ; the head is covered by a blue or white cotton shawl, Avhich, when a stranger approaches, is drawn across the lower part of the face. They wear a long dark-blue robe reaching midway between knee and ankle, decorated on the breast and at the hem with designs in red. The feet are generally bare, and the loose trousers are drawn tight at the ankle. Their black hair hangs in two long plaits, the points being fastened with a knot of many-coloured silks. When one considers the nature of these mountaineers — hereditary highway robbers and fighters, crack shots, agile and active, and when one observes the unlimited possibility they have among rocks, valleys, and passes of surprising a hostile army and of escaping themselves — the advantage of a " subsidy " becomes apparent.

At the distant or Avest extremity of the plateau, where we saw the Pathan villages, is the Landi Kotal serai. An ordinary caravansary in Afghanistan is a loopholed enclosure with one gate, and is very like the forts or villages I have described. At Landi Kotal, in addition to the native serai, is one built by the Government. It is strongly fortified, with bastion, embrasure, and banquette, and any part of the enclosure commanded by the adjoining hills is pro tected by a curtain or traverse. Hot, tired, and thirsty, we four rode into the fort, and were received by the British officer in charge. The Afghan guard took up their quarters in the native serai outside. Good as the road was it had seemed an endless journey. Winding in and out in the heat we had seemed to make but little progress, and the unaccustomed weight of the turban and the drag1 ging of the heavy revolver added considerably to our fatigue ; but the march, after all, was not more than five-and-twenty miles.

This time there was ample accommodation for The Shenwaris : Caravan of Traders. 11 us, and after an excellent dinner, the last I had in British territory for many a long month, we turned in. After Landi Kotal, the Khyber narrows up. We wound in ancl out round the fissures and water channels in the face of the mountain, and climbed up and down as before ; but presently the guard unslung their carbines ancl closed in round us. It was the Shenwari country we were now traversing, and these Pathans, even by the Amir's soldiers, are considered dangerous ; for Avhat says the proArerb, " A snake, a Shenwari, and a scorpion, have never a heart to tame." The Amir had, however, partly subjugated them even then, and a tower of skulls stood on a hill outside Kabul. Then we came to a series of small circular dusty Aralleys surrounded by rocky mountains.

There was nothing green, ancl the heat was very great, it seemed to be focussed from the rocks. Further on we caught up with a caravan of travelling merchants with their camels ancl pack-horses. These men belong almost entirely to a tribe of Afghans called Lohani. They come from the mountains about Ghazni. In the autumn they travel down to India with their merchandise and go about by rail and steamer to Bombay, Karachi, Burma, and other places for the purposes of trade. In the spring they go northward to Kabul, Herat, and Bokhara. Under the present Amir they can travel in Afghan istan without much danger, but in the reigns of Shere Ali and Dost Mahomed they had practically to fight their Avay. They go by the name of Povindia, from the Persian word Parwinda, " a bale of merchandise." When I was in Turkestan I became acquainted with one of these men.

He was a white bearded old Afghan who had been, he told me, to China, Moscow, and even to Paris. Hs tried to sell me a small nickel-plated Smith ancl Wesson revolver. We rode by the caravan of traders and reached Dakka, on the banks of the Kabul river. This is the first station belonging to the Amir. The Colonel commanding came out to receive us, and conducted us to a tent on the bank, where Ave sat and drank tea. We were much interested in watching some Afghans swimming down the river buoyed up by inflated skins — ■" mussaks." Grasping the skin in their arms they steered with their legs, the force of the current carrying them rapidly along. Two men took a donkey across. They made a raft by lashing four or five skins to some small branches ; and tying the donkey's legs together, they heaved him sideways on to the raft.

Clinging to the skins they pushed off, and, striking out with the legs, they were carried across in a diagonal direction. By-and-bye some men floated by on a rough raft made of logs. They were taking the Avood to India for sale. The river here, though not very deep, is dangerous, on account of the diverse currents. In the centre, to the depth of three or four feet, the current runs rapidly down the river; deeper it either runs up the river or goes much slower than the surface Avater. A few years later I was travelling past here, one hot summer, with Mr. Arthur Collins, recently geologist to th_ Amir, and we determined to bathe. Camp at Bassawal. 13 Mr. Collins, who was a strong swimmer, swam out into the middle : I paddled near the bank where the current was sweeping strongly up stream. Mr. Collins, out in the middle, was suddenly turned head 0ATer heels and sucked under.

He could not get to the surface, and, therefore, SAvam under water, happily in the right direction, and he came up very exhausted near the bank. After resting, we rode on through some hot pebbly valleys, with no sign of vegetation, until we reached Bassawal, where we camped. The tents were put up, sentries posted, and the servants lit wood fires to prepare dinner. It soon became dark, for the twilight is very short. We were advised to have no light in our tent, lest the tribes near might take a shot at us ; and we dined in the dark. It was the first night I had ever spent in a tent, and to me it seemed a mad thing to go to bed under such circumstances. I remember another night I spent near here some years afterwards, but that I will speak of later. On this occasion the night passed quietly.

The next morning they woke us before daybreak. The cook had lit a fire and prepared breakfast — fried eggs, tinned tongue, and tea. As soon as we were dressed the tents were struck, and wdiile we were breakfasting the baggage was loaded up. We had camp chairs and a little portable iron table, but its legs became bent, and our enamelled iron plates had a, way of slipping off, so that we generally used a mule trunk instead. The baggage was sent off, and we sat on the ground and smoked. Starting about an hour afterwards, we rode along through fertile valleys with cornfields in them: here water for irrig-ation could be obtained. In March the corn was a foot high. Then we rode across a large plain covered with a coarse grass. It was not cultivated because of the impossibility of obtaining water.

We camped further on in the Chahardeh valley, which was partly cultivated and partly covered with the coarse grass. The tents were put up near a clump of trees, where there was a AA'ell. Unfortunately, there was also the tomb of some man of importance, and other graves, near the well. The water we had from it tasted very musty and disagreeable. Next day we went through other cult_Arated valleys to the mountains again. The river here made a curve to the south, ancl the mountains came close up to the bank. The road, cut out of the face of the moun tain, ran sometimes level with the bank, sometimes a hundred feet or more above it. It was much pleasanter than the Khyber Pass, for to the north (our right) there was the broad Kabul river, with cultivated fields on its northern bank, and though the scorching heat of the sun was reflected from the rocks there was a cool breeze blowing-.

I thought it was a Avonderfully good road for native make, but I found, on enquiry, that it had been made by the British during the Afghan war. After rounding a shoulder of the mountain, where the road was high above the river, we could see in the distance the Jelalabad Plain and the walled city of Jelalabad. However, it was a long Avay off and we had to ride some hours before we reached it. When on a journey in Afghanistan it is not usual to trot or canter, in fact, the natives never trot. Advantages of Cultivation. 15 They ride at a quick shuffling walk : the horse's near side feet go forward together, and his off-side feet together — a camel's walk. It is an artificial pace, but very restful. There Avas a shorter route which we could have taken from Bassawal, avoiding Jelalabad altogether, but it was mostly over pebbly hills and desert plains, and was exceeding hot.

From Dacca we had kept fairly close to, though not actually in sight of, the Kabul river. It makes a vast difference to one's comfort in a tropical or semi-tropical country to traA7el through cultivated land where, if only at intervals, there is something green to be seen. Few things are more fatiguing than the glare of a desert and the reflected heat from pebbles and rocks; we, therefore, chose the longer but pleasanter route.

Chapter II

Arrival at Kabul. Arrival at Jelalabad. Reception by the Governor. The Palace. The Town. The Plain. Quarters in the Guest Pavilion. The friendly Khan. Tattang and the gunpowder factory. The Royal gardens at Nimla. The Suff-d Koh mountains. Arboreal distribution in Afghanistan. Gundamuk. Assassination of Cavagnari: details ofthe plot. The " Red bridge. " Commencement of mountainous ascent to Kabul. Jigdilik. Massacre of British in 1837. Former dangers of the valley of Katasang. Enterprising peasants. Tomb in the Sei Baba valley. Burial customs. The Lataband Pass and the Iron Cage. Distant view of Kabul. The Amir's projected road at Lataband. The approach to Kabul. The Lahore Gate. We arrived at Jelalabad about the middle of the afternoon. The town is fortified ; surrounded by a high wall, with bastions and loopholes ; and is in a good state of repair.

We entered one of the massive gates, rode through the bazaars to the Palace. The bazaars, like those of Kabul, are roughly roofed over to keep out the glare of the sun. The Governor of Jelalabad received us in the Palace gardens : seats were placed in the shade : fans Avere waAred by the page boys to keep off the flies; and a crowd of people stood around. SAveets were brought — chiefly sugared almonds — then tea and cigarettes, and bouquets of flowers. We rested for a while, and as we smoked the GoArernor made the usual polite Oriental speeches. Then he iiwited us to see the interior of the Palace. Jelalabad. 17 It is a large white building, standing in the midst of well laid out gardens, in Avhich are many varieties of Eastern and European fruit-trees and flowers. The Palace Avas semi-European in its internal decoration.

It was unfinished at this time. There was a large central hall Avith a domed roof, and smaller rooms at the side : a separate enclosure was built for the ladies of the harem : near by were kitchens, rooms for the Afghan bath, and a Guest house or pavilion in a garden of its OAvn. The town of Jelalabad is between ninety and a hundred miles from the Indian frontier tOAvn PeshaAvur, and contains, in the summer, a population of from three to four thousand inhabitants. There is one chief bazaar or street Avith shops. The other streets are very narrow. Though much smaller it resembles in style the city of Kabul, which I will describe presently. The spot was chosen by Baber Badshah, the Tartar king, founder of the Mogul dynasty of Afghanistan and India. He laid out some gardens here, but the town of Jelalabad was built by his grandson, Jelaluddin Shah, also called Akbar, in 1560 a.d., just about the time when Queen Elizabeth came to the throne.