My Indian journal

Front matter

CORNELL

UNIVERSITY

LIBRARY

Preface

A few of the earlier chapters of this book were published some twenty years ago in a London Magazine, but are, probably, ere now forgotten. The remainder is all new material from the old musty journals ; and I can only hope that, like old wine, it may not prove the less palatable for being covered with cobwebs.

leLLUSTKATIONS.

Tiger in Ambush

Indian Bison

BiACA, THE Beauty op Sbroda

Skulls of Indian Bison

Ibex op the Neilghereibs

Sambar

Weapons of the Nicobae Islanders

Page Frontispiece.

101 . 213 . 229

'leg

. 437

Chapter I. Boyhood

Man a Hunting Animal — Field and School Education — Alan M'lntyre, the Highland Fox-hunter — His Lessons and his Dogs—' Mountain- Dew,' and the Greenock Excisemen — Eate Caimichael's Notions on ' Law' . . ... Pages 1-8

CHAPTER IL

THE GOOD SHIP ' RESOLUTE.'

The Army — ^Embarkation for India — Parting Scenes — Discomfort on Board — Crossing the Line — Neptune and Amphitrite — Rough Shave — Moonlight at Sea — A Shark — Pilot Fish — Sunday, and Divine Service at Sea — Ensign C. conjures up a Breeze — ^My Midnight Watch — A Gale at Sea — Birth on Board . 9-31

CHAPTER IIL

FIRST IMPEESaiONS.

' Land ! Land !' — ^First Impressions of * the Land of the Sim ' — ^Adam's Peak and the Coast of Ceylon — Tropical Thunderstorm — Reach Madras — Catamaran Jack and the Masulah Boats — At Anchor in Madras Roads — Griffin pounced upon by Natives — Surf, and Landing at Madras — A Generous Sahib . . 32-44

X CONTENTS.

CHAPTER IV.

THE SUBALTERN IN INDIA.

First Impressions on Landing— Pastoral Life, and Life in Mamifacturing Town contrasted— Palaver of Native Servants seeking Employment— Maroli to Marmalong Bridge — Arab Horses — A Vicious Cutoh-horse— Camp Followers— Jungle Wallais, and how they tame WM-fowl — Hospitality at Madras— March to Bangalore— My First Sport in India — Ghauts — Dangerous Larking at VeUore among Alligators — Picturesque Encampment — Gigantic Banian Tree . . • Pages 44-56

CHAPTER V.

AN EXCURSION TO DHARWAR.

Leave of Absence Obtained — Travelling ' Dawk' — Bungalow — Old Palace at Chittledroog — A Great Man in Dishabille — Breakdown in Jungle — Apathy of Orientals — Repair Palanquin myself — Huiryhuv a Dull Cantonment — Palanquin attacked at Night — Dharwar — Want of Female Society — Gentlemanly Indian Sportsmen— AVild Animals 57-68

CHAPTER VL

SPORT AT DHARWAB.

Wandering Tiger marked down — Tiger kills one of the Beaters — Apathy of Natives — How to measure a Tiger — Indian Antelope Fighting for Mate — ^Attachment to Young — Hunting-Leopards — Antelopes Entrapped in Snares — Stalking and Dri^ong — Riding down an Antelope — Adventure with a Panther — Its Death 69-86

CONTENTS. XI

CHAPTER, VII.

THE BANKS OF THE BLACK RIVER.

A Remarkable Character — Old Kamah, tlie Prince of Trackers — My First Jungle Campaign — Lieutenant Hood on Detachment — Uninhabited Forest — Kamah punishes his Son for kiUing a Tiger — Female Bison killed — Charged by BuU — Old Kamah in his Cups — Revenge — Follo^\'ing Trail in the Forest — Encounter and kill a Solitary BuU — Leave the Forests— Herd of Bison — Pride of Young Sportsman — Sight of Deer — Sambar shot — Losing a Bison Pages 87-108

CHAPTER VIII

THE BANKS OP THE BLACK RIVER.

Disturb Spotted-deer^ One 'has eaten a Bullet' — How Mohadeen made the Venison Lawful to be eaten — Lieutenant Hood hunts in the Costume of a Scottish Archer — Self-satisfaction of Hood in killing a Tame Bison — Tail Trophy and the Injured Bullock-driver — How to clean Bisons' Heads — KjU a Dwarf Indian Musk-deer, and a Muntjak — ^Tiger betrayed by Monkeys and disturbed at Supper — How he was made to ' eat dirt'— Cheerful Camp-fires— A Party of Indian Sportsmen — A Feast under Canvas — Natives blazing Deer — ^Track of an Enormous Snake — The Indian Boa — A grand Beat in the Indian Style — Results — Another Drive — Rencontres with Tigers — A Big Bull Bison . 109-135

CHAPTER IX.

A civilian's camp.

Camp Struck — A Civilian of Rank and his Retinue — Large Number of Followers necessary — Military March Compared with Civil Service

CONTENTS.

—Indian Breakfasts— Advantage to Sportsman of Travelling "with Great Civilian — ^Reception at an Indian VUlage— Toudiing Gifts equivalent to accepting them — Pageantry and Flattery of Indian Welcome— Summoning Bussapa, the Tiger-slayer— Instance of his Presence of Mind and Courage — Peats of a Tumbler — Snake- Charming — Poison Fangs of Snakes — Sepoy killed by Bite of Cobra-CapeUa — Four Tigers and Two Bears surrounded — ^Elephant and Tiger's Lair — Dancing-giils — Hog-hunting — Tigress and Cubs — Tigress killed — Thunder and Rain — Two Bears Asleep — Old Man-eating Tigress — A Rash Beater killed — Singeing off Whiskers of Tigress — Courage of Native Hunters — A Hindoo will crouch before his Fellow-man, but face a Tiger — Indian Matchlock — Coolness at Lion-hunt in Guzerat — Foolhardy Sportsman in Guzerat — How a Briton should treat a Tiger . . Pages 136-162

CHAPTER X.

ON TIGERS.

In a Country Infested by Tigers — Havoc committed by Tigers — A Coniirmed Man-eater — The Hindoo Villager roused — Native Hunters marking down Tiger — ^Faults and Good Points of Elephant for Tiger-hunting — Mahout and Look-out Men — Shooting from Trees — Shooting Tigers on Foot — Madras Sepoy killed by approaching a Tiger apparently Dead — BuUock carried over Fence by Tiger — Fore-leg of Tiger — Muscular Power — Killing Tigers in Wynad District — Spearing Tigers from Horseback — ^Five Brothers kill Tigers when Asleep — Male Buffalo and Tiger — Wild Dog and Tiger — Man-eater and Band of Bheels — Ludicrous Adventure of an old Kandeish Sportsman — Panther Dangerous to encounter ...... 163-185

CONTENTS. xiii

CHAPTEK XL

AN EXCURSION TO GOA.

An Eccentric but Warm-liearted Doctor — Dr. Macphee described by ' The Old Forest Ranger ' — Accompanies us in Excursion to Goa — Cry of tbe Hysena — Brinjaries and Piudarees — A Gipsy Queen, or Pbaiaob's Daughter — Magnificent Mountaia Scenery — Peacock and Jungle-fowl — Dying Baggage-bullock Abandoned — Jackals and Tiger — ^A Large Snake killed — ^Doctor prepares Skin — Embark on Eiver — Convent of Cabou and Franciscan Friars — Friars' Breakfast and Vows in Lent — Friar at Dinner — A Jolly Evening — The Padre under the Influence of Wine — Old Goa — Portuguese Officers and Ladies — Cockswain, and Churches — Inquisition — Pictures of Martyrs at Goa — Seroda and its Nymphs — A Nautoh — ^A Village in a Grove of Orange and Citron Trees — ^The Fair Biaca — Dangers of Seroda — Attack by Bears . . . Pages 186-214

CHAPTER XIL

DHAEWAB AND A SECOND TRIP TO THE COAST.

How a Vow of Vengeance was kept — The worthy Dr. Macphee's ' Grit Shot ' — Pursuit of Wounded Bear — Bruin in her Lair — Spare Gun wanted — Doctor has to leap for his Life — Death of the Two Bears of Gurrug — A Suttee described — Vain attempt to rescue the Widow — The Living and the Dead on the Funeral Pile — Haughty Brahmin bearded and cursed by a Scottish Doctor — Meet Lord Clare — An Indian Prince and his Mahratta Horsemen . 215-226

CHAPTER XIIL

BISON-SHOOTING.

The Indian Bison or Qaour — ^A Large BuU — Horns and other Characteristics— Favourite Haunts — ^A Fierce Animal — A Charge — Native xiv CONTBKTS.

Hunters' Dread of Bison— A Bull attacked in the Plain by Horsemen—Hints to Sportsmen— What the Sportsman should carry- Shooting-Jacket— Thirst— Glorious Draught of Pale Ale on return to Camp- The Rusa-deer or Sambar fond of Salt— Habits of Sambar— Fight between Stag and Bison— Sambar domesticated— Destructive to Books— Spotted-deer undisturbed— Shooting a Buck —The Trail followed— Stumbling on a Tiger- A Warm Eeception — Tigers surrounded — A Young Hand ruins the ,Sport — Ride down a Spotted-deer on 'Challenger' — Muntjak or Rib-faced Deer — Indian Musk-deer — EUiot's first Bison — His immense Bulk Pages 227-255

CHAPTER XIV.

FBOM DHARWAB TO THE CAMP.

Visions of Sport dispelled by an Order to join my Company — Officers of Flank Companies expected to prefer Man-Hunting to any other sport — ' Turquoise,' a favourite Arab Horse — The Travellers' Bungalow and its Furniture — Mosquitoes prevent Sleep — A Troop of Sowars — Mohadeen, the Mahometan Dandy — The Dandy in Undress — A Stuffed Tiger — A Tropical Storm — Great Speed of Antelope — Generalship of Wolves — Antelopes relieved — Cross the Toongabudra River — Hurryhur in a fine Sporting Country — Our Destination— A Revolt in Mysore — A new Escort — How I use my Holsters — My Escort vanish — A Charitable Pagan brings Food and Forage — A Midnight Messenger — Quilted Armour — Burning of Quilted Armour — Country ravaged by War — Spearing a Ryot — ^Eyot rescued — Sowars hated . . .256-278

CHAPTER XV.

THE CAMP AND THE FIELD.

Reach the Camp — Baggage-elephants and Naked Urchins — The Dead March — ' Jungle Wallah' welcomed — Costimie resembling that of

CONTENTS. XV

Robinson Crnsoe — A pompons Old Major — Cases of Cholera — Death of Babington — Reading the Funeral Service— Game, but must not shoot — Resident of Mysore — Two Brahmins with their Throats cut — Skirmishers of Enemy dislodged with Grape-shot — Long March and Severe Work — Relieving Guard by Volunteers— Sleep by the side of my Horse — A Discreet Charger — Glimpse of Enemy's Sooiit — Combiued Display of Anglo- Saxon and Celtic Ferocity — Elephants' Sagacity in moving Guns — Fall of Nugger — Death from Cholera in the Mess-Tent — Quarters in an Old Palace of Tippoo Sahib — A Comfortable Night uninterrupted by ' the General ' — Soldiers asleep on March — Severe Practical Joke on a Letter-Carrier — Narrow Escape of a Guide — Snap-shot by an Artilleryman . Pages 279-297

CHAPTER XVI.

ON THE MARCH.

Commanding the Rear-Guard — Baggage-bullocks done up — Pressiug a WUd Bullock into the Service — Pat Malony in a Prickly Bush — Great Gun at Armantepoor — Mohadeen killed by a Tiger — Spotted-deer — Bison Bull — A Day in the Forest — Following the Trail of Bruin — Frightened by a Porcupine — Pursuit of Bear abandoned — Bear iu Tree — Dr. Macphee's Advice — New Test for Military Examination . .298-311

CHAPTER XVII.

IN QUAETERS AT BANGALOBE.

New-Year's Day in India — How to enjoy India — Public Ball — Riding ' Turquoise' into a BaE-Room — ' A daft-like Trick' — Indian Story told at Mess-Table — The Three Brahmins — Doctor Macphee's Remarks — A young Gentleman silenced — 'The Cock Sawmon' . ■ 312-324

XVI CONTENTS.

CHAPTER XVIII.

HOG-HUNTING.

The Nugger Hunt — The true Sportsman — The First Spear — Boar at Bay — Requisites of a good Hog-hunter — Haunts of Hog — My first Day with the Nugger Hunt — Hunting-song — Race between two Leading Horses — The Spear won — ^Death of the Boar — ^A large Sounder of Hog — The Dying and the Dead — Exciting Match — ^A fresh Run — Onslow's Charger — A ' Muff's' Share in the Hunt ..... Pages 325-339

CHAPTER XIX.

EXCURSION TO THE NEIIiGHEKBT HILLS.

Four Officers start — Native Servants' Dread of Cold — Their WMrns attended to — The Laul Bang at Seringapatam — Fresco of Tippoo's Victory — The Palace Garden — Tippoo's Tomb — Large Mosquitoes at Mysore — A large Sambar's Head — Game Preserve — Wild Dogs — Thunderstorm — ^Fine View from Goodaloor Pass — Splendid Breakfast— General and Lady Dalrymple — Sportsmen at Ootacamund — First Blood .... 340-352

CHAPTER XX.

THE NEILGHERET HILLS.

First Intrusion of Europeans — HQl Folk — ^The Toda Tribe — Polyandry of Todas — Burghers and Cohatars — Burmese Pony 'Ginger,' and his Keeper 'Pimch' — ^A Coat for Ginger — Mrs. Punch and Baby — Ladies' Days — Extracts from Journal — A Morning Stalk — Tenacity of Life in a Sambar Stag — HiU-tops at Daybreak — Ibex-stalking — Ibex of the NeUgherries . , . 353-371

CONTENTS. xvii

CHAPTER XXI.

THE NEILGHEREY HILLS {continued).

Glorious Climate — Small Game shooting — Misnamed Animals — Bashful Wild Bucks — Little's Pack of Dogs — Pursuit of the Sambax — Instances of Tenacity of Life in Sambar — Shot at a Wild Dog — Stalking a SmaL. Stag — Ibex Sentinel — How to circumvent the Ibex The Fall of the Sentinel — Observe the Habits of a Bear — Bruin's Skin converted into a Eug — Ladies' Day with Lushington's Hounds — Aid-de-Camp to a General Officer — His Duties — Find the Rulers of the Land on the Neilgherries — Lady Acquaintances — An English Girl in India — Meet in the Bear's Glen — An Old Stag — ^Narrow Escape of Ladies from a Bear — The first Woodcock of the Season — Migration of Woodcock . . . Pages 372-391

CHAPTER XXIL

RETUBN TO BANQALOEE AND MARCH TO MASULIPATAM.

Discovery of Plot to seize the Fort of Bangalore and to massacre the Europeans — Tippoo the Mutineer — Court of Inquiry — Plans of Mutineers — The Sentence — Execution — Mutineers blown from Gons — Orders to march to Masulipatam — Cholera breaks out — First Case — Courtship of Natives ia the Hills — ^A Man murdered for his Wife — Burial Service over Serjeant's Wife — Death of Colour- Serjeant Murphy — Great Mortality — Cheering Effects of a Letter from Home — The Ninety-first Psalm . . 392-404

CHAPTER XXIIL

MARCH TO MASULIPATAM {continued).

Johnston attacked with Cholei-a — Mortality among Camp-FoUowers — Hot Wind — Thermometer at 107° — How to cook a Haunch —

XVm CONTENTS.

Mirage — A Mud Bath — Crossing the Lagoon before Daybreak — The Rajah's Turtle — ^Attempt to harpoon a Wild Boar— Salt Duties — Monument to ' Laura !' — ^Military Career and Death of Captaia Buchan — Soldiers' Wives crossing the River — Ride down a Jackal — ^Breakfast with a Capital Fellow at Masulipatam Pages 405-418

CHAPTER XXIV.

MASULIPATAM.

An Unhealthy Station — Swamp — The Flat — Polite offer of a Picturesque Spot in a Cemetery ! — Main-Guard Duty — Port Wine — Famiae — A Cruise in Prospect . . . 419-426

CHAPTER XXV.

A CRUISE TO THE NICOBAR AND ANDAMAN ISLANDS.

Our Party — Embarkation in Boats punted out — Carnicobar — Anchorage of Ship ' Abberton' — The Islanders and their ' Tails ' — Skipper's Mistake — Barter — 'Captain Macintosh' — Wild Pigs — 'Captaia Norris' and the Rifle^Pigeons — Birds and Fruits— Lee Side of Island — A Family Dinner — Huts — A Strange Ship — Burial Ceremonies ... . 427-443

CHAPTER XXVL

CRUISE TO THE NICOBAR AND ANDAMAN ISLANDS (continiied).

'Captain Malbrook' — Good Feeling of Natives at a Burial — The Funeral Service — Presents — Native Politeness — Dogs and Cocoa-nuts— Pigeons — ]\Ir. Gall's Passage in my Canoe — The Doctor Swamped — Wild Pigs — Snakes and Sharks^uice of Cocoa-nut — Funeral Sei-vice at Sea — Hamilton's Accoimt of Andaman Islanders . . . 444.458

CONTENTS. XIX

CHAPTER XXVII.

THE ANDAMAN ISLANDS.

Entrance to Port CornwaUia — A SquaU — An Attack by the Natives — ■ The Wounded — ^Arrows not Poisoned — ^An Exploring Party — Mangrove Bushes — a Landsman iu a Squall — Eeturn to the Ship — Bay on Long Island — Josey and the Natives — Return to Masulipatam . . . Pages 459-470

CHAPTER XXVIIL

CONCLTJSION.

Appointed Aid-de-Canip on General Dalrjinple's Staff — Madras Society — Idle Life — The Charming Hester — Leave of Absence — 'Turquoise' Lamed — Bishop of Calcutta — Ladies' Dinner-Party — Ship ' Duke of Buccleugh' — Ginger and Punch — Homeward bound ! . . . . . 471-477

MY INDIAN JOUENAL.

CHAPTEE I.

BOYHOOD.

Some one has said that man is a hunting animal. Whether this be true of the human race in general, I shall not venture to affirm. But this I can safely say, that I, at least, was born a hunting animal. From my earliest childhood I loved lethal weapons, I rejoiced in the smeU of gunpowder, and well do I remember the almost religious veneration with which I used to regard a certain pair of red deer's antlers which hung in the entrance hall, and sigh for the day when I should be able to earn such trophies — I have earned many since, and the poor old head is now eclipsed by the more splendid spolia which surround it, but it still retains its place, and is still dear to me for the sake of early recollections.

Long before I had strength to carry a gun, I had learnt to despise such childish toys as brass cannon, and pocket pistols. My delight was to follow the keeper in his rambles over the moors, watching with boyish admiration what appeared to me his almost superhuman skill in bringing down birds on wing, and thinking myself amply repaid for the

2 THE HILL.

hunger and fatigue I often endured, by an occasional shot at an old cock grouse, which by dint of stalking craftily, and resting the barrel of the gun over a hillock — for 1 was not yet strong enough to hold it to my shoulder — I frequently managed to slay. It would have done your heart good to have heard the shout of exultation, with which the barelegged kilted young savage bounded from his hiding-place, as the conviilsive flutter of wings, among the heather, announced that his shot had been successful — to have seen the tenacity, like that of a young wild cat, with which he clung to his prey, lest it might lose its identity by being mingled with the birds already in the game-bag — and to have witnessed the proud look of triumph with which he exhibited the scarlet crest, and glossy brown plumage of his victim, to the admiring group of younger brothers and sisters who welcomed his return from " the hill," — to them a land of mist and mystery.

A Highland education naturally tended to foster this innate love of field sports ; whilst my solitary rambles, for days and nights together, in pursuit of the wily stag, and the wild legends of bygone days,* with which my ears were filled by the venerable deer-stalkers and bards of our clan, inspired me with a love for the beauties of nature, a spirit of adventure, and a considerable dash of romance, which have clung to me ever since, and have proved a source of no little enjoyment during my service in India — a country which, to Europeans in general, is merely a land of banishment — ^but which to me proved a land of stirring adventure and pleasing romance, to which, in my old age, I can look back with feelings of im-

* Many of these, almost forgotten legends, have lately been rescued from oblivion by my cousin, Mr. Campbell of Islay ; one of the few men of the present day capable of undertaking such a work.

EDUCATION. 3

alloyed satisfaction. But before starting for India, a word' about my dear Highland home.

I was born heir to an old family property in the West Highlands of Scotland.

My father died when I was only seven years of age, leaving me, two brothers, and a sister, to the care of my mother — an Englishwoman by birth, but romantically attached to her adopted Highland home. In her younger days, she had lived much abroad, mixed in the best society, and had the courtly manner of a well-bred lady of the last century. But with aU her courtly manner, my mother had a dash of the Spartan in her. Her theory was, that boys could not be brought up too hardy ; that a man, worthy of the name of man, should not know what fear meant ; and that, if not courteous to the fair sex, as knight-errant of romance, he was unworthy to Uve.

The consequence was, that my brothers and I lived — out of doors — the lives of young savages ; wandering among the hills in search of hawks' nests, swimming across the river in our clothes (consisting merely of a kUt and flannel shirt), which we allowed to dry on our backs; riding unbroken Highland ponies, with nothing but a halter to guide them ; and going to sea in open boats in all weathers. But, within doors, no savagery was allowed. In the drawing-room, we were expected to behave like weU-bred pages, and tend the ladies as such ; and so we were brought up hardy enough for anything, without sinking into utter barbarism.

But with regard to "book-learning," our education was not so good. During the sbc winter months, we attended the old High School in Edinburgh, and spent the summer in the Highlands studying, by way of, with a private tutor ; who, being a Highlander, naturally sympathised with us in our preference for rifles, salmon-spears, and flshing-rods, over

4 THE HIGH SCHOOL.

Latin grammars, Greek lexicons, and the problems of EucUd. So it came to pass we learnt more of woodcraft than the classics ; and on leaving Edinburgh to join the army, I was politely informed, by our venerable Eector, that I was quite right in choosing the profession of a soldier, as I was just the sort of fellow to make capital "food for powder," but would never be good for anything else. Many years after, when I had returned from India, a major in the army, I met my venerable preceptor, and after a long friendly chat, about old times, he was good enough to acknowledge that I had turned out better than he expected, and was glad to find I had not yet been " used up " as " food for powder."

There were plenty of salmon and deer in those days; and that noble bird the eagle, which has now become almost extinct, was then as common as hawks are now. I generally knew where to find an eagle's nest. I early became an expert hand at slaying salmon, either with rod or leister (for spearing salmon was then considered quite a legitimate sport). And when I had learnt to handle a rifle (which I did as soon as I was strong enough to hold one to my shoulder) I took to deer - stalking, under the guidance of old Alan M'Intyre, the fox-hunter and bard of our district. The old Highland fox-hunter has long ago been superseded by the modern game -keeper. lake the Eed Indian, he has been overwhelmed by the tide of advancing civilization, and become almost extinct. But, in the days of my boyhood, when game -keepers were almost unknown, and hardly needed, the fox-hunter of a Highland district was a person of no small importance. He was paid so much a year by each proprietor, and wandered about from house to house, always a welcome guest, slaying eagles, foxes, wUd cats, and other vermin, and receiving a certain gratuity

from each farmer for every fox or eagle he could produce. He managed also to lay up a stock of food for the winter, by spearing salmon, and slaying, as a " mart,"* a fat stag or two. And why not ? Why should not he have a " mart" as well as his neighbours ? He had neither flocks nor herds. For is not the deer of the "corrie," and the salmon of the river, the natural food of the hunter ?

My friend Alan M'Intyre was a specimen of the thoroughbred old Highlander, rarely met with now-a-days. He was a tall, wiry, active-looking man of about fifty, with strikingly handsome features, and the grave expression and dignified but courteous manner of an American Indian chief. His bow, when saluting a lady, would have done credit to a courtier. Although he could neither read nor write, he had studied the great book of nature, and not in vain, for it had made biTTi a naturalist and a poet. From the stag to the stoat, he was as familiar with the habits and instincts of the wild animals of the Highlands, as a shepherd is with the habits of his sheep, or the instincts of his coUie-dog. And during his long solitary rambles among the lulls, he beguiled the time by composing Gaelic songs, and poems worthy of Ossian. Many a pleasant evening have I spent in listening to them, as we sat over a peat fire in a lonely bothie, and rested our weary hmbs, after a successful day's stalking.

It was a joyful day to us boys when Alan's well-known shrill whistle, which could be heard at a mile's distance, announced his arrival; for on such occasions we were always allowed a couple of days' holiday to join the hunt; and forth we rushed, with shouts of welcome, to meet him as he came striding up the avenue, followed by a pack of lean,

* An animal slaughtered about Octolier or November, and salted down to supply the family with beef during the winter, is termed a " mart.''

6 ALAN M'INTYEE, THE FOX-HUNTEE.

hungry-looking dogs, consisting of two superannuated fox-hounds, an old brindled deer-hound, a rough Kussian waterdog, and about a dozen of thorough varmiat-looking terriers, ready to tackle anything from a bull to a badger, and whose scarred muzzles and torn ears gave evidence of many a fierce encounter with wUd-cat and otter. Under his arm, balanced horizontally, Alan carried a long-barrelled Spanish gun, which had been in his family for ages, and was supposed to have done good service at Culloden; and over his shoulder was thrown a well-worn gray plaid, one end of which was sewed up so as to form a sort of pocket, which he called his "blood-poke," and on searching which we seldom failed to find an otter, a fox, a pine-martin, or some other animal which he had picked up during his march across the hiUs.

Alan was my sporting tutor, and a rare good one he was. Powder and lead being expensive commodities in the Highlands, Alan coiild not afford to burn powder for nothing, and rarely did so. He picked his shots, and would stalk a stag for half a day rather than risk a wild shot; but when he did fire, his bullet seldom failed to reach the heart.

Alan's theory was that no man had any right to call himself a hunter till he had killed a stag, a seal, an eagle, and a swan, and did not consider my education finished till I succeeded in doing so ; but, having done so, he sent me forth with his blessing, as a lad fit to take care of himself.

Many years after, when I returned from India, I found poor old Alan stiU alive, and, although upwards of seventy years of age, stUl creeping about with the old long-barrelled gun under his arm. It was really affecting to see the poor old man, with tears of joy pouring over his furrowed cheeks, as I displayed to him my Indian trophies of the chase, and

MOUNTAIN-DEW. 7

reminded him that but for his good training I should never have earned them. He patted me on the back, calling me the " calf of his heart," the pride of his old age, and would sit for hours ga2dng at the heads and skins which decorated the hall, as an old Indian chief might do upon the scalps taken in war by his only son, chaunting the while a song of triumph which he had composed on my return from "the far off hunting-grounds near the rising sun," where I had slain great mid-cats, larger and stronger than a Highland buU.

These were the days when the real " mountain-dew " trickled from our hiUs.

Every bushel of barley grown in the country was manufactured into whisky by the grower, and despite all the efforts of excisemen, and the crews of revenue cutters which blockaded the coast, small stills might be found at work in almost every hUl-burn or mountain-stream, as our Southern friends would call them, and there was no lack of hardy, reckless boatmen, ready to ferry the " wafer of life " across to the low country, on stormy nights, when the blockading cutters did not care to keep at sea ; and to land it by force, if necessary. I remember one case of a boat's crew landing on the pier at Greenock, fighting the excisemen — some of whom were thrown into the water — and carrying off their kegs of whisky in triumph.

There was an old woman in our village, named Kate Carmichael — ^there is no object in concealing her name now, for she has long ago been gathered to her ancestors — who made her living by distilling " the water of Ufe," and looked upon our good old king, George the Third, who then ruled the land, much in the same light as a modern Pole looks upon the Emperor of Eussia — a ruthless tyrant, who would not allow

0 KATE CAEMICHAEL.