China; the country and its people

Front matter

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Introduction

xi proselyte. The religion of the one bade him bear the message of good-will, even though its rejection were indubitable. The character of his reception by the other, as the nineteenth century rolled into the past, was tempered by the knowledge of the crushing might that lay behind him. Though the ethics taught by the Bible have much in common with those proclaimed by Confucius, and though China was originally tolerant of all religions, her experience with the West developed an antagonism which manifested itself in anti-Christian outrages and which gave evidence of its strength in the Boxer movement of 1900. But the blame for this movement cannot be entirely placed upon the shoulders of the missionary. He was one factor. Foreign aggression was the other.

Western trade early chafed under the restrictions imposed by the Imperial Government. Their removal or, at least, their modification was persistently sought by the commercial powers. In the eighteenth century six nations were engaged in trade with China through the single port of Canton, — Portugal, England, Holland, Spain, France, and the United States. The first appearance of America as a competitor in Oriental commerce occurred when the thirteen American colonies, revolting from British sovereignty, were clumsily working together under the makeshift of the Confederation. None of the European governments, thus apprised of its latest rival, was gifted with the prescience to see in this pioneer the leader of a fleet which would carry a commerce more valuable than that of any of them save one, — Great Britain, — and which by leaps and bounds, a century later, was to make great strides in overtaking the lead which that one had acquired.

Foreign aggression placed its hand heavily upon the empire in the nineteenth century. Her people enervated by the effects of opium, and her treasury depleted of silver used to pay for that drug, China prohibited its importation and brought upon herself the "opium war" which lasted from 1840 until 1842, Ignominious defeat compelled her to sue for peace. Hong-kong, the first territory alienated to the West, was ceded to her conqueror. Great Britain, the United States, and France, negotiated treaties which removed some of the obstacles in the way of trade and accorded to their nationals the privilege of extra-territoriality — one of the great humiliations under which China has smarted. The T'ai P'ing revolt embarrassed the central government from 1850 until 1864. Its suppression was hampered by fresh difficulties with foreign nations which culminated in the extension by France of a nominal protectorate over Annam, and by the British and French occupation of Pekin in 1860. New treaty concessions, including the maintenance of diplomatic representatives in Pekin and the protection of missionaries in the interior, were exacted of China. The entire West claimed and was granted the right to enjoy them. Forced into international relations, and appreciating that her military power was inadequate to defend her territory against foreign attack, China secured from the United States and Great Britain in 1868 a promise never to intervene in Chinese governmental affairs, — a promise the Washington government has consistently observed. War with France in 1884-85 xii INTRODUCTION.

resulted in the cession of Tonquin and Anuam to the victor. Beyond this, it induced China to organise a navy, which, however, suffered overwhelming defeat during the war with Japan in 1894.

Japanese arms exposed the weakness of an empire that sprawled over a large part of Asia. Taking advantage of its inability to resist, foreign nations demanded concessions which were granted to prevent still greater misfortunes. But the rapacity of European governments knew no bounds. In retaliation for the murder of two German missionaries, Germany seized Kiao Chou and imposed other demands, — exacting an indemnity far disproportionate to the seriousness of the crime committed. Eussia, which had forced Japan to relinquish the Liao Tung peninsula, occupied Talien Wan and Port Arthur, To preserve the balance of power in the north of China, Great Britain acquired Wei-hai-wei. France took possession of Kwaug-chow Bay, and Great Britain added the Kowloon promontory to Hong-kong. Spheres of influence were outlined and the chancellories of Europe frankly described the territories their governments should seize in case of partition. Railroad and mining concessions were demanded as matters of right. The coastwise trade, which had been historically carried by native junks, was largely transferred to foreign steamers. Spoliation seemed to be the fate of China.

Eeform was the panacea which the emperor adopted for the ills of his empire. Resistance was the remedy advocated by the conservatives. Supported by the latter, the empress dowager resumed the reins of government in September, 1898. Preparations to oppose foreign aggression were begun, — a course which received the cordial approval of the people. A vast volunteer army was organised. Urged on by the impetuosity of fanatical leaders, hostilities were inaugurated against foreigners.

Guilty of violating the most sacred laws of international hospitality, China's recent conduct must yet be judged in the light of the wrongs she had suffered. Aware as she was of Western strength, the courage which prompted her to throw her glove in the face of all nations compels acknowledgment. There could, of course, be but one result of war against the rest of the world. She again suffered humiliation, and she will be compelled to pay for her temerity by complying with terms which might well crush a less resourceful nation. Both in the operations necessary to effect the relief of the legations besieged in Pekin, and in the subsequent diplomatic negotiations, the United States, besides affording proper protection to American interests, has observed that policy of tin selfishness which has historically guided it in its relations with China. Substantial evidence of its support of this policy is furnished by the small claim for indemnity it recently submitted ; by its proposal to reduce that claim by half if other nations would take like action; by its refusal to join in firing on the Taku forts; and by its being the first power to withdraw its armed forces from Pekin. Throughout the negotiations, its purpose has been tempered with justice and leniency, and it has made haste to be considerate and helpful. Though the Imperial Government is burdened by the exaction of excessive indemnities, Chinese entity has been preserved, and

INTRODUCTION. xiii

China will again soon be free to resume the task of carving out her own destiny, in which task she is entitled to our cordial sympathy.

Prior to the Boxer movement, Chinese patriotism was either a thing unknown or unappreciated in the West. The unity of the North and the difficulty with which the viceroys restrained the South during the national outbreak of 1900 gave evidence of the existence of a strong love of country in the Chinese breast. The conduct of the Allies in Chi Li has intensified the hatred of the natives for things Western. Defeat established Chinese inability to meet modern armies with unorganised mobs, and modern ordnance with the tools of husbandry. The English have demonstrated that the yellow man, capably led, is excellent military material. Eradication of native prejudice against the profession of arms and creation of well-drilled regiments are vital to China's existence. Foreign greed, which manifested itself prior to the Boxer outbreak, will renew its assault when the Chinese government resumes power in Pekin. Suffering from Western avariciousness and awakened to the need of foreign innovations by the lash of Western enterprise, who can doubt, however, that China will engraft the civilisation of the West upon the trunk of what for centuries was the glory of the East, and under the influence of modern institutions return to the position of power and culture which she held in the halcyon days of the Han dynasty ? Thus, by God's hard but moulding hand, through the selfishness and the strife of men and nations, through greed and outrage on the one hand and prejudice and encrustation on the other, through the fierce drive for gain and adventure, — the trader more a factor than the missionary, — the slow welding of old empires, peoples, and institutions upon new and better ones goes cruelly and brutally, but progressively on. China as a name, a form of government, an entity, is nothing, as every other nation as a name, a form of government, an entity, is nothing ; but China as a people — one-quarter of the human race — is henceforth, as is every other people, under whatever name or form of government it may be, sure to share in the better things of that coming progress and civilisation of the world, when "the kindly earth shall slumber, lapt in universal law," and fifty years of Europe shall be one with fifty years of Cathay.

John D. Long.

Contents

CHAPTER

I. Glimpses of the Ancient Shore

II. The Mountain Monastery

II 330 •

(C

<c

Colored Map of China

LIST OF ILLUSTRATIONS

A Chinese Family — Mother, Son, AND Daughter ....

Sampans and Jinrikishas

Nankin Donkey ....

Soldiers at Nankin

A Chinese Fajiily ....

Buddhist Nun and Attendant

Sea View at Pootoo

Imperial Maritime Customs House

Island in the Ri\t:r Yangtse

Pagoda in Southern China .

The Bund at Hankow .

Procession of Buddhist Priests En tering Temple ....

Curiously Shaped Rocks (Pootoo)

Stone Camels at Ming Tombs

Chinese Pony

View near Ting - Hal, Chusan Archi

PELAGO • . . . .

Mausoleum of a Nobleman .

Buddhist Temple ....

Water Buffaloes ....

Gang of Prisoners Wearing the

Cangue

Bridge near Shanghai .

A Lotus Pond

View in Hong - Kong .

Wire - rope Trabiway, Hong - Kong Hao - Ku Temple at Hong - Kong City Hall at Hong - Kong , Steamer Running from Hong - Kong

to Canton ....

On the Sacred Island of Pootoo .

Drum Tower, Nankin .

PAGE 1

3 4 5

7 8 9 11 13 14 17

18 30 21

24 25 27 28

30 31 32 35 37 39 40

42 43 44

A Typical Canal View ...

Junks and Slipper Boats, Canton

Entrance to Sjiall Temple, Canton

HoNAM, OR " South of the Riv^er,' Canton

Grotesque Rock Carvings

Southern Side of Island of Pootoo

Fat - EE, Opposite Shabieen, Canton

Slipper Roats, Canton .

View on the Foreign Bund, Canton

Bridge to the Native City, Canton

An Ancient Temple, Canton

"S^'iEW from Foreign Quarter, Canton

Boat Landing, Canton .

Earthen Water - jars. Canton .

Pottery Yard, Canton .

Boulevard in the Shameen, Canton

Catsttonese Musicians

Boat Scene on the River. Canton

Christ Church for Foreigners, Canton

A Country Farmhouse ...

Beggars on Hills near Nankin .

Pagodas on Grand Canal

Country Scene near Shanghai .

Colossal Elephants at Ming Tombs, Nankin

Bridge over Canal at Soochow .

Great Bell at Nankin .

View on Island of Pootoo

Babiboo Scaffolding for a Foreign House .....

Pagoda at Kewkiang page 45

51 52 54

78 80 81

83 86 87 89

90 92

IX

LIST OF ILLUSTEATIOXS.

PAGE

The Hohse God, Temple xear Shaxg-

HAI 93

Buddhist Te3iple, near Nixgpo . . 95

View ix Ravixe at Ta - Lax - Shax . 96

A Brick axd Tile Yard, xear Nixgpo 100

View xear Soochow .... 101

Bridge o^t:r Creek at Kiashax . . 10;?

College of Mathematics, Wuchaxg . 104

Examixatiox of a Prisoxer . . . 106

Street Puxishmexts .... 108

Street Puxishmexts .... 109

Puxishmext of the Rack . . . 110

PUXISHMEXT of THE BaMBOO . . .113

BoHEA Hills, Provixce of Fo-Kiex . 114 Shores of the Sacred Islaxd of

Court ix Froxt of a Private Resi-

dexce 117

Wheelbarrow Ridixg at Shaxghai . 118

Shaxghai 121

Gravtes xear Nixgpo .... 133 Methodist Missiox School at Kix-

kiaxg 125

Wellixgtox Street, Hoxg - Koxg . 126 Boom across Pearl River, below

Caxtox 128

Square Drop - xet with Bamboo

Frame 130

Cast - Irox Top of Former Porcelaix

Pagoda, Naxkix .... 133 Itixeraxt Restauraxt . . . .133

View xear Naxkix .... 134

Scexe xear Shaxghai . ... . 137

Water Coolie, Shaxghai . . . 138

Chixese Womax with Bouxd Feet . 140

Naxkix Uxiversity .... 142 Barber axd Masseur ix Temple

Moxumext to a Womax Oxe Hundred Years Old 145

Bridge across Graxd Caxal . . . 147

Ruixed Pagoda xear Chefoo . . 148

View ox the Chixa Coast . . . 150

Ox THE Yaxgtse at Chixkiaxg , Shaxghai axd Wusuxg Railway .

Buddhist Moxastery, Pootoo Ordixary Civiliax's Chair AxciEXT Shrixe IX Caxtox .

A Squatter ixside Walls of Naxkix .

Outside the laiPERiAL Arsexal, Naxkix .......

Ixterior OF Bea3iless Temple, Naxkix .......

Hoxg - Koxg Harbour axd Boats Family Mausoleum xear Suchau

The Archer

A Tartar of the Chixese Army .

Image at Temple Extraxce xear Shaxghai ......

A Prisoxer Wearixg the Caxgue SowixG Rice at Suchax - Fu Porcelaix axd Earthexware Shop .

Porcelaix axd Earthenware Shop, Secoxd View . . . . .

Ax Itixeraxt Barber . . . .

The Great Wall of Chixa .

A Farmer's Shed

Bridge over Caxal at Sarchow .

Extraxce to Coxfuciax Temple, Naxkix ......

View ox Graxd Caxal . . . .

A Chixese Studext . . . .

CoFFix Tuxxel at ax Emperor's Tomb Dragox Temple at Nixgpo .

Wheelbarrow for Carrying Passex-

Drawbridge Coxxectixg Wharf axd

City, Naxkix . . . . .

Soldiers Practisixg the Art of Self-

DEFEXCE ......

Buddhist Abbot axd Priests ix Fltll Caxoxicals

Water - jars of Earthexware, Shaxghai .......

Portico at Naxkix . . . .

The Provisiox Market, Hoxgkew

Naxkix axd the Purple Mountain .

page 152

166 169 170 171

173 175 177

180 181 183 184 186

187 189 192 193 195

197 198

300 201

205 207 308 209

LIST OF ILLUSTEATIOXS.

PAGE

Images of the Lohaxs (Attendant

Ruins of Emperor Yung Soh's Tojib,

Nankin 213

River Boat and Rice Junk . . . 315

The Drum Tower, Nankin . . . 217

Buddhist Priests at Worship . . 218 Ruins in the Old Palace Grounds,

Ornamental Roofs and Brickwork,

(SUCHAU) 231

Mission Hospital, Nankin . . . 223 Grotesquely Shaped Rocks . .. . 234 One of the Gates of Nankin . . 2-26 Buddhist Priests Outside Small Temple, PooTOO 228

Street in Nankin 230

View of the City Walls, Nankin . 333 The Coal Hill, Pekin . . . .334

Mohammedan Minaret, Canton . . 338

Central Hall of Private Residence . 339

View in Nankin ..... 340

A View near Canton .... 241

New Drawbridge, Nankin . . . 243

A Pagoda in Ruins .... 344

View of Nankin from Drum Tower . 346

Parade of Foreign and Native Police,

Hong - Kong 347

View inside the Arsenal, Shanghai . 351

West Gate of Ching - Keang - Foo . 253

Summer House near Shanghai . . 354

The " Shanghai Tea - gardens " . . 255

Naval College, Nankin . . . 259

Entrance to Temple near Suchau . 260

Earthen Water - jars, Shanghai . 261

Native Spinning - wheel and Loom . 264

Tablet near Nankin .... 266

Confucian Temple, Nankin . . 267

An Itinerant Doctor .... 269

Military Station near Chokian . . 371

Beggars' Huts on Site of Porcelain

Pagoda, Nankin . . . . 272

The Beamless Tejiple, Spirit Valley,

Nankin . 274

Boudoir and Bedchamber of Fashionable Lady 275

Outer Building of Confucian Temple, Nankin

The Soochow Creek, Shanghai .

Wharf and Storehouses, Shanghai .

ViEAV ON THE MOAT, NaTIVE QUAR- TER, Shanghai .....

Tea - HOUSE in Shanghai Entrance to Carter Road, Shanghai Boat - load of Reeds, near Shanghai Gate of Nankin .....

Entrance to Garden ....

Consulting the Sticks of Fate .

Chinese Opium Smokers The City of Nankin ....

The Shanghai Club, Opened 1864 The Astor House, Shanghai Native Junks Moored in River at Shanghai .....

Dinner Party at a Mandarin's

House

Nankin from the Porcelain Tower .

Earthen Jar Shop and Blacksmith Shop, Shanghai ....

Temple of Buddha, Canton Scenery at the Island of Pootoo A Ruined Pagoda .....

Showroobi of a Lantern Merchant .

Chinese Marriage Procession

Macao .

Eurasian Children from School at Shanghai .....

Road by the Side of Wangpoo River, Shanghai .....

Rice Sellers at a Military Station .

Nankin froji City Wall: The Feast of Lanterns CoL^NTRY Farmhouse, near Shanghai View on a River near Canton .

Cap - \t:nder's Shop, Canton Apartment in a Mandarin's House Scene at the Sacred Island of Pootoo .......

A Chinese Restaurant, Shanghai Entrance into the City' of Amoy Itinerant Barbers, Shanghai View on the Bund at Shanghai

XI

PAGE

276 278 279

301 304

330 332 334 335 336

Xll

LIST OF ILLUSTEATIOXS.

PAGE

THAIfSPLAXTING RiCE .... 338

Propitiatory Offerixgs for Departed

Relatives 339

The Tiger Guard . . . . .340

The I31PERIAL Caxal . . . . 343

The Kix - Shax, or Goldex Islaxd . 344

A Chixese Cemetery .... 346 Tiger Islaxd, Extraxce of the Cax-

Tox Ri\t;r 347

Coal Mixes at Yixg - tih . . . 349 Hax-Tseuex, Provixce of Kiaxg -

XAN 351

The Cataract of Shih - tax . . 353

Dyeixg ax-^d Wix'dix'g Silk . . . 354

hoxg - kox'^g from kow - loox . . 355

TSEIH LiXG YeX", OR, THE Se\T:X - STAR

Moux^TAixs ..... 356

A Chixese Barber ..... 358

PUXISHMEX^T OF THE BaSTIXADO . . 360

Feedix'^g Silkworms axd Sortixg the

Cocooxs 362

CoTTOx Plaxtatiox'^s at Nixg - po . 363

The Polo Temple, Tai - hou . . 365 Maxdarix Payix-^g a Visit of Cere-

MoxY 366

A Chix^ese Jrx-K, Cax^tox^ River . 368

Village ox the Caxal xear Caxtox 369 The Spectacle of " The Sux^ axd

City of Nix-^g - po, from the Ri\t:r . 373

A FouxTAix^ Court ix Caxtox" . . 374 Chixese Pagoda, betweex Caxtox

AX'D Whampoa 376

Buddhist Womex at their Devotioxs 379

Chixese Ladies ix^ Foreigx Dress . 380

Kite - flyixg 383

Cleax'^ixg Cottox" . . . . . 384

The Stockixg - maker .... 385

POLICEMAX AXD PriSOXER . . . 387

Chinese Farm ox the Amur River . 390

Loaded Barrow 393

Extraxce Gate to Coxfuciax Temple, Ching - HAi .... 393 Caxal - boats ox the River Pei - ho . 395 The Hea Hills, Chaou - kixg - foo . 397 page

Mouth of the Chix - kiax'g Ri\t:r . 399

Jugglers ix^ the Court of a Man-

darix's Palace 402

Ladies of a Mandarin's Family at

Cards 403

The Bridge of Xankix .... 406 The Shih - mux, or Rock - gates,

Provixce of Kiaxg - x-^AX . . 407

CoREAX^ Temple ..... 409

Loadixg Tea - jux'ks at Tseex-tax^g. 411 Arrival of Marriage Presexts at the

Bridal Residexce . . . . 413

Amur River, Siberia .... 415

Maxchu Soldier 417

Chix'^ese Regular ..... 430 Imperial Travellixg Palace, Hoo -

KEW - SHAX^ ..... 421 Facade of the Great Temple at

Macao 423

Foochux Hill, Provixce of Che

Paviliox" of the Star of Hope, Tox'G

Chow 427

The Grotto of Camoex^s, Macao . . 438 Gardexs of the Imperial Palace,

Pekix 430

Westerx Gate, . Pekix'^ .... 432 At the Palace of Yuex Mix" Yuen,

Coreax'^ Peasaxt's Hut .... 435

Paixtixg from Coreax" Tejiple . . 438

Imperial Palace at Tseaol' - shax' . 440 Merchaxt's House ix the Suburbs

of Caxtox ..... 441 Chixese Sacrifice to the Harvest

Moox 443

QuEEx^'s Palace, Gorea .... 445

Festival of the Dragox - boat . . 447

Coreax' Laxdscape ..... 448 Extraxce to Tc:\rPLE of Hoxax,

Caxtox 449

The Graxd Temple at Pootoo, Chu-

sax' Islaxds 451

LIST OF ILLUSTRATIONS.

Xlll

PAGE

Ancient Bronze Breech - loading

Cannon, Corea .... 452

Camel Caravans on Plains of Mongolia 453

Pavilion and Gardens of a Mandarin 455

CoREAN Landscape, Country House . 456

Chapel in the Great Temple,

Corean Types 459

House of a Chinese Merchant near

Canton 460

Gate of Seoul, Corea . . . .

Termination of the Great Wall,

Gulf of Pe Chi Li .

Corean Mandarin

SauARE IN Seoul, Corea

Painting from Corean Temple Aristocratic Quarter in Seoul,

Corea

King's Palace, Seoul, Corea

Corean Temple . . . . .

Gate OF Corean Walled Town .

PAGE

464 466 467

473 474 476

A CHINESE FAMILY MOTHER, SON, AND DAUGHTER.

CHINA.