Castile and Andalucia

Preface

It may appear almost superfluous that a preface should accompany a work like the present, but I must be excused in this instance, in order that I may render a passing tribute to the artist, who has kindly assisted me in the illustrations of the following pages. The landscape and architectural drawings are from my own sketches, but the figures are from the pencil of Mr. Egron Lundgren, a Swedish Artist now residing in Seville, whose admirable delineations of Spanish life and customs are well known to those who have had the pleasure of visiting his studio.

The reader will find in these pages the results of passing observations made during a two years' residence in the country. I have endeavoured to give a faithful description of the present state of Spain, a country for which I have always entertained feelings of peculiar interest, and of which I shall carry away many vi PREFACE.

pleasing recollections, of happy days spent beneath its sunny sky.

No books have been consulted in the preparation of this work, beyond the local histories of the various cities which we visited, and some of the Spanish historians : indeed, I had but few at my command. Under the disadvantages of being absent from England during the progress of this book through the press, I should have had even more diffidence in presenting it to the public, had it not been for the assistance of two or three kind friends, to whom I can hardly sufficiently express my thanks.

Seville, May, 1853.

ADVERTISEMENT.

The whole of the Illustrations which accompany this Volume (from original drawings by Lady Louisa Tenison and Mr. Egron Limdgren) have been executed • under the superintendence of that distinguished artist, Mr. John F. Lewis.

New Burlington Street, July 16, 1853.

Contents

CHAPTEE I.

PAGE

DEPARTURE FROM GIBRALTAR — REFLECTIONS OX ENTERING SPAIN — MALAGA, PAST AND PRESENT

Chapter II

CLIMATE OF MALAGA— SOCIETY AMUSEMENTS LETTERS OF INTRODUCTION MORNING VISITS

KNOWLEDGE OF THE LANGUAGE INDISPENSABLE AN EXCURSION ALHAURIN COIN

CHURRIANO — TORRE MOLINOS DEPARTURE — RIDE TO GRANADA VELEZ MALAGA MOUN- TAIN MISTS— A NIGHT AT ZAFFARAYA MURDER CROSSES ALHAMA ITS SIEGES PULGAR

— DREARY ROAD — FIRST VIEW OF GRANADA — THE VEGA — THE ARAB SETTLERS — APPROACH TO GRANADA — HOUSE HUNTING — DIFFICULTIES — CARMEN SAN ANTON — ITS CHARMING SITUATION— TORRES BERMEJAS — AN HONEST COURIER — SELECT NEIGHBOURHOOD . . 24

Chapter III. The Alhambra Exterior View From San Nicolas The Arab Dominion Historio

SKETCH IX CONNECTION WITH THE ALHAMBRA ITS POSITION ITS APPROACH — GATE OF

JUSTICE CHARLES TnE FIFTH'S PALACE — MOORISH PALACE — CONTRASTS — COURT OF

MYRTLES HALL OF THE AMBASSADORS — TOCADOR — MIRADOlt OF LINDERAJA HALL OF

THE TWO SISTERS — COURT OF THE LIONS— MODERN RESTORATIONS — HALL OF THE ABENCERRAJES — ALHAMBRA BY MOONLIGHT — THE ALCAZABA — VIEW FROM THE TORRE DE LA VELA — REMAINING TOWERS ■ *W • ■ • • • • .48 viii

CONTENTS.

Chapter IV. Paoe

THE GENERALIFE — THE CEMETERY — FUNERALS — GARDENS — THE TOWN — VIRGEN DE LAS

AUGUSTIAS VALLEY OF THE GENIL CUARTO REAL ROYAL CHAPEL — THE CATHEDRAL

CANO PAINTED SCULPTURE THE BIBARAMBLA FESTIVAL OF THE CORPUS — BAH

GERONIMO — SAN JUAN DE DIOS — CARTUJA — SAN MIGUEL EL ALTO — GIPSY CAVES — VALLEY

OF THE DARRO GOLD DIGGERS — FESTIVAL DAYS THE NARVAJA AGCADORS WATEB-

EPICURES 72

Chapter V

ENVIRONS OF GRANADA — LA ZUBIA — STA. FE — COLUMBUS — SOTO DE ROMA — HARVEST SCENES

ELVIRA — COUNCIL OF ILLIBERIS VIZNAR ALFACAR — BOTANISING EXCURSION TO THE

SIERRA SUNRISE IN THE HILLS DORNAJO SPRING PICACHO DE VELETA — MOUNTAIN

BIVOUAC MONACHIL THE ALPUJARRAS LAST STRUGGLE OF THE MOORS PADCL

SPANISH ROAD-MAKING LANJARON ORGIBA THE HULA HACEN POQ.UEIRA RETURN

— DEPARTURE FOR SEVILLE — LOJA — LONELY JOURNEY — THE GALERA — ALCALA DE GUADAIRA 104

Chapter VI

SEVILLE — STRIKING PECULIARITIES — THE GIRALDA — LA CAMPANERA — SCENERY — EFFECTS OF DISTANCE ON THE CONSCIENCE — MOORISH AND CHRISTIAN ARCHITECTURE — THE CATHEDRAL — EASTER SUNDAY — ST. FERDINAND — MIRACULOUS IMAGES — PAINTINGS — TOMB OF

F. COLUMBUS CHURCH TREASURY SEISES SERMONS BULA DE LA STA. CRUZADA — STATE

OF RELIGION THE CLERGY REVIVAL OF THE CONVENTS — RECEPTION OF A NUN . . 139

Chapter VII

PAINTINGS — CHURCH OF SAN ISIDORO — MUSEO — LA CARIDAD — MURILLO's HOUSE — DEAN CEPERO — OHURCH OF THE UNIVERSITY — THE ALCAZAR — THE LONJA — PILFERINGS OF

ENGLISH TOURISTS CATHEDRAL LIBRARY SAN TELMO LAS DELICIAS TORRE DEL ORO

TRIANA GIPSIES DANCES — PLAZAS QUEEN'S PICTURE CASA DE PILATOS — SOCIETY —

TALKING AT THE REJA — MARRIAGES — THE THEATRE — CIGAR MANUFACTORY — CHARITABLE INSTITUTIONS — THE INFANTA ... 0. ...... • 165

CONTENTS.

ix

Chapter VIII. Page

THE HOLY WEEK COFRADIAS IMAGES PROCESSIONS THE MONUMENTO THE FAIR

MAJAS BUNUELOS FOREIGNERS BULL-FIGHTS RACES ENVIRONS ST. JUAN DE

ALFARACHE — ITALICA SANTI PONCE CARTUJA ALCALA DE GUADAIRA SEVILLE A3 A

RESIDENCE — CLIMATE DEPARTURE THE RIVER SAN LUCAR CADIZ CATHEDRAL

CAPUCHIN CONVENT THE BAY— THE CARACCAS ........ 197

Chapter IX

A RIDING TOUR TO GRANADA PORT ST. MARY'S XERES THE CARTUJA SUPPRESSION OF

THE. RELIGIOUS ORDERS — MONASTIC RUINS START FROM XERES ARCOS HOSPITALITY

SPLENDID SCENERY A FOREST RIDE MID-DAY HALT ABSENTEE PROPRIETORS

EL BOSQUE — MORE HOSPITALITY BENI MOHAMMED GRAZALEMA NAD A PARTICULAR

THE THEATRE — STRANGERS — A DECIDED NOVELTY — ROAD TO RONDA .... 224

Chapter X

RONDA — THE TAJO — MOORISH HOUSES — ALAMEDA — CASA DEL REY MORO CHURCHES — CUEVA

DEL GATO A TRAVELLING COMPANION TEBA CAMPILLOS THE SALT LAKE— ANTEQUERA

PLEASANT QUARTERS THE CASTLE ARCO DE LOS GIGANTES ROMAN ANTIQUITIES

BALLAD STORIES MIRACULOUS IMAGE A FIX DIPLOMACY CUEVA DEL MENGAL

AFFINITY BETWEEN CELTIC REMAINS IN SPAIN AND IRELAND DEPARTURE PENA.

DE LOS ENAMORADOS ARCHIDONA HER MAJESTY'S MAIL LOJA ARRIVAL AT

OBAN ADA 256

Chapter XI

EXCURSION TO THE SIERRA — SIGHT ON THE PICACHO PLEASANT INTELLIGENCE — ROBBERS

OR NO ROBBERS LUCKY ESCAPE — CHATO — FAREWELL VISITS— A SPANISH DILIGENCE

MENGIBAR — BAYLEN— CASTANOS — LA MANCHA — DON QUIXOTE — THE BARBER AND THE CURATE ARRIVAL AT MADRID ............ 288

X

CONTENTS.

Chapter XII. Page

MADRID PUERTA DEL SOL HOTELS PRADO CARNIVAL BULL-FIGHTS MERINO THE

COURT SOCIETY THE THEATRES LITERATURE — -ALCALA DE BENARES CARDINAL

XIMENES — ! CERVANTES ARCHITECTURE PALACE OF MADRID ARMOURY PLAZA

Chapter XIII

THE MUSEUM OF PAINTINGS START FOR BURGOS — ARANDA — PENARANDA — HOSPITALITY —

FEUDAL MANSION — MISERY OF THE PEOPLE — ABUNDANCE OP PROVISIONS — COB.CKA DEL

CONDE CLUNIA PENALVA — ROMAN REMAINS SCENERY SILOS — RECEPTION CONVENT OP

SANTO DOMINGO CLOISTERS — THE LAST OF THE ABBOTS — FERNAN GONZALEZ — LERM A

BURGOS — THE CATHEDRAL — THE CITADEL — SIEGE — ENVIRONS 847

Chapter XIV

SAN PEDRO DE OARDENA — THE CID — HIS TOMB — MIRAFLORES — CONVENT OF THE HUELGAS

VALLADOLID — DEATH OF COLUMBUS — INQUISITION — SAN PABLO — SAN GREGORIO —

CATHEDRAL— COLLEGE OF SANTA CRUZ — PAINTINGS AND SCULPTURES HERNANDEZ —

JUAN DE JUNI ENGLISH AND SCOTCH COLLEGES — RECEPTION OF A RUN AN EXCURSION

— A TARTANA SIMANOAS THE SPANISH ARCHIVES BURIED LORE — RED HUGH o'dONKL

FRANCISCAN CONVENT —LEON— COMFORTLESS QUARTERS — THE BRASERO . . . 377

Chapter XV

CITY OF LEON — CATHEDRAL — BISHOP'S PALACE — BEQOARS CASTILIANS ; Till I i - CIVILITY AND

PRIDE — CHURCH OF ST. ISIDORE — ROYAL TOMBS — OX-CARTS MARAGATOS — THE CONSTI- TUTION JEALOUSLY GUARDED ENJOYMENTS OF TRAVEL NATIONAL CUISINE CROSS THE

GUADARRAMAS THE ESCORIAL ITS ORIGIN AND VICISSITUDES GRANDEUR OF ITS

CHURCH A MUSEUM OF RELICS CHAPEL OF THE SANTA FORMA THE MAUSOLEUM

CORO — LIBRARY — THE VILLAGE INN .......... 405 i dXTENTS.

Chapter XVI. Page

LA ORANJA — SEOOTIA — TITE AQUEDUCT — SAN JUSTO — CONVENT OP PARRAL — CHURCH OP THE

TEMPLARS — CATHEDRAL ALCAZAR WINTRY WEATHER — RETURN TO MADRID POLITICAL

CRISIS ASSEMBLING AND DISSOLUTION OF THE CORTES — THEIR CONSTITUTION — CHAMBER

OF DEPUTIES — MINISTERIAL MEASURES — THE DECREE CENSORSHIP OF TnE PRESS — FALL

OF THE MINISTRY — REFLECTIONS ON THE PRESENT STATE OF SPAIN .... 436

Chapter XVII

TOLEDO — CATHEDRAL — CAPILLA MAYOR — MUZARABIC CnAPEL AND LITURGY — SAN JUAN DE

LOS REYES — SWORD MANUFACTORY BRIDGE OF SAN MARTIN DECLINE OF TOLEDO

OASTLE OF SAN CERVANTES BRIDGE OF ALCANTARA — ALCAZAR — MOORISH REMAINS —

DEPARTURE — CORDOBA THE MOSQUE SAN NICOLAS — THE ANGELUS CAMPO SANTO

ERMITAS AND THEIR OCCUPANTS— THE SIERRA RETURN TO SEVILLE CONCLUSION . . 461

LIST OF PLATES.

PACE

ALHAMBRA FROM SN. NICOLAS Frontispiece

MALAGA FROM THE ERMITAS 22

ARRIVING AT A POSADA 35

CARMEN, GRANADA ..." SO

LANJAEON 126

CATHEDRAL, SEVILLE 14G

GIPSEY-DANCE 183

PROCESSIONS, HOLY WEEK 201

THE FAIR (FERIA), SEVILLE 209

CARTUJA, XERES 237

GRAZALEMA 252

RONDA 257

ANTEQUERA 265

NIGHT ON THE PICACHO . . .289

PALACE, MADRID _ 341

PENARANDA 359

STO. DOMINGO DE SILOS 365

TOMB OF THE CID 379

SN. GREGORIO, VALLADOLID 388

CATHEDRAL, LEON 406

ESCORIAL 429

SAN JUSTO, SEGOVIA 441

TOLEDO . kg . . . 472

CATHEDRAL, CORDOBA 478

c

VIGNETTES.

PAGE

ARCO DE LOS GIGANTES, ANTEQUERA TUU-pagt.

WOMEN AT CHURCH 1

GRANADA 24

AN AGUADOR 48

SPANISH FUNERAL 71

A GALERA 104

LA CAMPANERA 139

TALKING AT THE RE J A 106

PROCESSION IN CHURCH 197

MANTILLA DE TIRO ' . . .224

PATIO IN RONDA 256

INTERIOR OF THE CAVE 275

A BARBER'S SHOP 288

LA BOLERA 315

A TARTANA 847

SIMANCAS 377

EL BRASERO .... 404

CARRO CON BUEYES 405

LAVANDERAS 436

AT THE FOUNTAIN 461

WOMBS AT CHURCH.

CHAPTER I. En tiempos de Ventura

Y las uaciones timidas la vicron

Yistosa en hcrmosura

Cual cedro que in Libano se ostenta, Su frente se elevaba; Como el trueno a la virgen amedrenta Su voz las asterraba.

Espronceda.

DEPARTURE FROM GIBRALTAR — REFLECTIONS ON ENTERING SPAIN — MALAGA, PAST AND PRESENT —

HOTELS ACCOMMODATION— THE ALAMEDA THE MANTILLA OVERRATED BEAUTY OF THE

WOMEN — THE THEATRE THE CATHEDRAL THE CORO AND ITS EFFECT WOMEN AT CHURCH

DEVOTION — THE CEMETERY ALL-SOULS' DAY MOORISH ARCH — THE FRUIT MARKET— THE RIVER

— FATE OF TORRIJOS — FORMER SIEGE — PROTESTANT CEMETERY — CHRISTMAS — NACIMIENTOS —

MIDNIGHT MASS — ST. ANTHONY'S DAY RIDES AROUND MALAGA ROBBERS— SCENERY MALAGA

FROM THE ERMITAS — AQUEDUCTS — CERRO DE SN. ANTON.

It was a glorious evening in the beginning of October 1850, when we found ourselves steaming out of the Bay of Gibraltar on our way to Malaga, where we

n were going to remain the winter. Nothing could exceed the beauty of the night. There was not a ripple on the sea ; and as the steamer dashed along, the waters around sparkled with phosphorescent light, and millions of fire-flies seemed to be dancing amid the white foam which rose about us. There was no moon ; but the stars were shining with the most intense brilliancy, standing out in the deep dark sky. and shedding so clear a light, that we could distinguish the grand outline not only of the rock itself, but of the range of lofty mountains stretching far away towards Tarifa, and marking on our left the long line of the Spanish coast whose soil we were about to visit for the first time.

No one can approach Spain without feelings of the deepest interest, different indeed from those which animate the traveller on first seeing the more clas-ir shores of Greece or Italy, but still of a character which awakens many a stirring thought and cherished recollection. She has filled a great page in the World's History. The very darkness of her infancy is not in common with that of other countries. It embraces a period and events in which perhaps is to be found the surest clue to the earliest colonisation of the west of Europe and whatever of arts and of civilisation it may have then possessed. She, too, as well as other lands, had her fields laid waste by civil war and invasion ; but in every phase of her story there is an interest peculiar to herself. Subject, in turn, to Carthage and to Rome ; then conquered by the Goths, whose power fell to pieces on the banks of the Guadalete, she Mas laid low at the foot of the Moslem, until the germ of a new dynasty sprang up in the fastnesses of the Asturias. Divided into many kingdoms, almost incessantly at war with each other, her energies became

CASTILE AND ANDALUCIA.

gradually concentrated on the one great object, that of rescuing her soil from its Mahommedan rulers.

Animated by religious enthusiasm, the untiring efforts of more than seven hundred years were at length crowned with success ; and the triumph of the cross was rewarded with the discovery of a new world and a boundless empire. Rapidly rising to the highest pinnacle of greatness, the first among the nations in chivalrous renown, in military power, in wealth and commerce, she dazzled the world with her glories for a season, only to render more visible the darkness that has shrouded her since. Even in our own times, though her plains have been the battle fields on which the destinies of Europe have been partly decided, she is but little known and little visited ; yet, proud even in her fall, she seems content that the stranger should pass her by unheeded, without lifting the veil which conceals her corruption and decay. Spain has been ever the favoured land of Romance ; and some of her greatest heroes live but in the wild verses of her ballads. There is still a charm in this land of by-gone chivalry, which lingers about it, even after a long residence in the country and an acquaintance with the sad realities of its present state, have gone far to dispel the dreams in which imagination had so long indulged.

Our steamer was very comfortable — one of those Spanish vessels which run from Cadiz to Marseilles, stopping at all the intermediate ports. They regulate their progress so as to arrive during the morning or early in the day, at the several points they visit, where they remain some hours ; thus affording the tourist a most delightful though rapid view of the southern and eastern shores of the Peninsula. We were on deck before sunrise, anxious to have the first view of our destination.

B 2

CASTILE AND ANDALUCIA.

The sun was rising out of the waters as we approached, gilding the whole range of mountains, at the foot of which Malaga appeared with its famous fortress, the Gibralfaro towering to the right, and its lofty Cathedral elevated high above the surrounding buildings. From the sea the town appears small : the Cathedral seeming to form the principal portion. As we approached, it being some gala day, the guns from the fortress began firing ; and no great effort of imagination was required to picture Malaga as it lay during its memorable siege ; to conjure up the past, and see the Christian army encamped around — the low plain which stretches out to the left, and the surrounding hills covered with Castilian troops — the ensign of the cross floating over the tent of Ferdinand and Isabella — the blue waters whitened with sails bearing supplies to the camp of the besiegers — while the inhabitants of the town looked in vain for relief to the distant shores of Africa ; their sacred banner still waving from the heights of the Gibralfaro. But a nearer approach soon destroyed the illusion — the Malaga before which the Catholic Sovereigns lay encamped suddenly vanished, and we saw before us the Malaga of the nineteenth century, flanked on each side by the tall chimneys of its iron-works, more befitting the neighbourhood of Liverpool or Glasgow than the sunny clime of Andalucia. But unpoetical and discordant with the scene around, as such erections may appear, it is upon them that the e}re ultimately rests with greatest satisfaction, glad to see, that amid the lethargy that is so widely prevalent, there is still a sign of life and health and hope for the future.

The dreams of the past, first dispelled by the sight of the tall chimneys of the Heredias iron-works, were thoroughly banished when we cast anchor in the port :

CASTILE AND ANDALUCIA.

and we landed, in no very romantic mood, amid the whirl and confusion of Custom House officers examining the luggage, of porters seizing it in every direction, and of importunate people from the different hotels, each recommending his own with all the energy and vehement gesticulations generally displayed on such occasions by the excitable inhabitants of the south.

We walked up to the hotel on the Alameda, now the great resort of all the English, and certainly it is far superior to the general class of Spanish hotels, although wanting a great deal to make it equal to similar establishments in other continental countries. The house is one of the handsomest on the Alameda. We found the prices for our party very high, and went to look over some of the other hotels, but the little we saw of them convinced us we had better remain where we first took up our quarters. We made accordingly an agreement with the landlord, and engaged our rooms for the winter. I cannot say that to English ideas they presented much appearance of comfort, the scanty furniture consisting of nothing more than a sofa, a table, and a few chairs : the absence of carpets and of curtains to the windows did not impress one very highly with the arrangements of the much vaunted English hotel at Malaga. However, we soon became accustomed to it, and resigned ourselves to what could not be avoided. The impossibility of getting furnished houses or apartments in towns in Spain is a very 8< rious disadvantage to families spending the winter in that country, being driven either to remain in the hotels, where the charges are high in proportion to the comforts they afford, or else obliged to take unfurnished rooms and buy the furniture — the latter an unprofitable speculation for families intending to remain but a few months in a place ; for in Spain, even more than

CASTILE AND ANDALUCIA.

elsewhere, it is difficult to find purchasers just at the moment you would wish to meet with them. The hotel in which we resided is situated upon the north side of the Alameda or public walk, and has the full benefit of the sun during the winter — a great advantage to invalids. They only can tell the comfort of having rooms facing the sun, who have lived much during the winter in southern climates, where there is a total absence of fire-places or stoves, and where the houses are so badly prepared against cold, that it is impossible to find either a door or a window which closes properly. When we arrived, the apartments were rather too warm, for the heat in October was excessive ; but we soon found the advantage of the position, when the winter really commenced.

The Alameda is a fine long promenade, with four rows of acacias forming three avenues, the centre and broadest of all being reserved for pedestrians. Had it been along the sea shore, like the Chiaja at Naples, it would be beautiful ; but as it is, the effect is quite destroyed from its being shut in from the sea and enclosed by two rows of houses. At times, the dust there is almost intolerable ; but nevertheless it is the only promenade Malaga possesses, and as such, is the place where all the world walk up and down, to see and be seen. There is a very pretty marble fountain at one end ; but the absence of shade — for acacias are not of much utility in affording shelter from the sun — and the want of flowers, which abound in the Alamedas of other towns, render it very commonplace.

Here, on fete days, in particular, the stranger may see the inhabitants promenading in their gayest dresses. Such a variety of colours meet and dazzle the eye as to make him at once conclude that whatever attractive qualities Spanish women may possess, taste in dress cannot be considered among them. The most strikingnovelty on first landing in Spain is the mantilla, or black veil, which is generally worn, although here and there bonnets are creeping in, and Spanish women are sacrificing the only becoming peculiarity they have left in order to imitate the fashions of their neighbours. There is an elegance and a dressy appearance about the mantilla which create surprise at its not having been adopted by other nations ; and if Spaniards could only be made to feel how unbecoming bonnets are to them, the rich masses of whose splendid hair prevent the bonnet being properly worn, they would cherish the mantilla as conferring on them a peculiar charm in which they are safe to fear no rivals.

I know that I shall be accused of insensibility and want of taste, when I confess that my first disappointment on landing in Spain was the almost total absence of beauty amongst the Spanish women. Poets have sung of Spain's " dark glancing daughters," and travellers have wandered through the country, wdth minds so deeply impressed with the preconceived idea of the beauty of the women, that they have found them all their imaginations so fondly pictured, and in their works have fostered, what I cannot help maintaining, is a mere delusion ; one of the many hi which people still indulge when they think and dream of Spain. The women of Spain have magnificent eyes, beautiful hah', and generally fine teeth ; but more than that cannot be said by those who are content to give an honest and candid opinion. I have rarely seen one whose features could be called strictly beautiful, and that bewitching grace and fascination about their figures and their walk which they formerly possessed, have disappeared with the high comb which supported the mantilla, and the narrow basquiha, which gave a peculiar character

CASTILE AND ANDALUCI A.

to their walk. With the change in their costume, those distinctive charms have vanished. The gaudy colours which now prevail have destroyed the elegance that always accompanies black, in which alone, some years since, a lady could appear in public. No further proof of this is required than to see the same people at church, where black is still considered indispensable, and on the Alameda with red dresses and yellow shawls, or some colours equally gaudy and combined with as little regard to taste. The men have likewise abandoned the cloak, and now appear in paletots and every variety of foreign invention : nor have they either gained by their sacrifices at the altar of French fashion. By no means distinguished in figure, none needed more the rich folds of the capa to lend them that air of grace and dignity which it peculiarly possesses. Although I have not yet discovered the beauty of Spanish women, I must say that the Malaguenians are fairly entitled, in all that does exist, to dispute the palm with the inhabitants of any other town we have visited. There are some very pretty faces and very characteristic of the Spanish countenance. They are generally very dark, and almost all have that peculiar projecting brow which gives to the face quite a character of its own. The women have a universal custom of putting fresh flowers in their hair. It strikes one much, upon first arriving, to see those of every class, even the poorest, with some flower or another most gracefully placed in their rich black hair, the beauty of which is not a little enhanced by the bright red rose, or snowy jasmine contrasting so well with their raven tresses. The hair is generally worn plain, curls being seldom seen, for they do not suit the mantilla ; and if flowers cannot be procured, some bright ribbon is invariably worn as a substitute. The love of brilliaut s

CASTILE AND ANDALUCIA.

and showy colours, appearing to form a ruling passion in the present day, offers a singular contrast to the fashion of twenty years ago, when a lady who would have ventured into the street dressed in anything but Mack would have been mobbed and insulted by the people. As it is, the lower orders are not very tolerant of customs and habits which differ from their own standard, and are in the habit of giving vent to their opinions of strangers, who go about their towns, in terms sometimes most complimentary, but oftener just the reverse, especially when they happen to have anything about their dress which displeases the critical eye, or excites the merriment of the lively Andalucian. The people, however, are fast following in the steps of the upper classes, and abandoning their rich and picturesque dresses. In short, in many ways, Spaniards are losing those peculiarities which have invested their land with a certain poetical charm, and are adopting many of the trivial commonplaces of other countries, which, to a passing observer, may seem to indicate an advancement in civilisation ; but alas ! they make but little progress in those more sterling and intellectual qualities, and those industrial pursuits, which would enable Spain once more to assume that place which the natural advantages of her soil and position would qualify her to hold among the nations of the present day.

Our first visit to the theatre at Malaga confirmed my impressions of the exaggerated accounts generally given of Spanish beauty. All the best people were there, but only two or three very pretty faces were to be seen hi the boxes. The pit, divided into seats, each having its own number, is wholly appropriated to gentlemen. When first we arrived, the Alcalde or one of the Ayuntamiento always presided in the centre over the royal box ; but this practice has been discontinued

CASTILE AND ANDALUCIA.

lately, and the audience may now indulge in their applause or disapprobation unrestrained. There was an Italian company — of course a very indifferent one. They acted on alternate nights with the Spanish performers ; but we generally went on the evenings the latter gave their representations, the Spanish pieces offering to us a greater attraction than Italian Operas by inferior singers. One of the pieces, which had the greatest run, was a Spanish comic opera, called the Tio Caniytas, which has taken immensely the last two years. An unhappy Englishman is the hero of the play, and his endeavours to cultivate the society of a youthful gipsy, in order to acquire with more facility the Gitano language, afford the Spaniards a good opportunity of turning our countrymen into ridicule ; and he is victimised in turn by the old uncle and by the lover of his dark instructress. There are some very pretty airs introduced, and a characteristic dance called the Vito. It is amusing to a stranger from the costume and the plot. Being partly in the Andalucian and partly in the Gitano dialect, it is rather incomprehensible to any one who has not been some time in the country. Some of the lighter Spanish pieces are very attractive ; but their tragedies, however well they may read, are indeed formidable on the stage, as they contain very long speeches and very little action.

While we were at Malaga, they brought out a piece called the Mercado de Londres (the London Market), illustrating the adventures of a Spaniard in London. The incidents were not very nattering to our national pride, as the story turned on the interesting subject of a man selling his wife — an event which they seem to imagine is of the commonest occurrence in "soberbia Albion."

The district of Malaga was formed into a bishopric

CASTILE AND AXDALUCIA.

and made suffragan to the see of Seville, in 1488. Pope Innocent VIII. had issued a bull, authorising the Grand Cardinal Mendoza to erect churches wherever he might think lit in the cities gained from the Moors. The cathedral was commenced in 1522 : and its design is by some ascribed to Diego de Siloe. The facade cannot boast of much architectural beauty ; it is flanked by two towers — one completed, the other not yet raised above the faqade, remaining, like all cathedrals in Spain, unfinished. Of the time of Philip II., it offers nothing remarkable either in the interior or exterior ; the latter is, however, decorated with some rich marbles. The existence of these, which had been covered over with plaster and whitewash, was hardly known, until a few years ago, when one of the richest merchants in Malaga, a British subject, undertook to clean the facade at his own expense, preparatory to the first visit of the Infanta and the Duke de Montpensier. '

The effect of all the cathedrals I have yet seen in Spain is destroyed by the plan of having the choir in the centre of the church, facing the high altar, instead of behind it. It prevents the eye taking in the whole of the edifice, chokes up the nave and renders it impossible to obtain a view of the high altar, unless sideways from the aisles. No beauty of execution in the choir itself can atone for the manner in which it mars the general effect of the whole building : it also seems to interfere with the due observance of public worship, for the frequent processions of priests and acolytes, to and from the bishop's throne, which is situated in the choir, serve only to distract the attention which should solely be devoted to the altar.

The crowds of women, all in black, form a very striking feature on first entering the Spanish churches.

CASTILE AND ANDALUCIA.

They all kneel, or sit on the floor with their feet gathered under them, and fill up every pause in the service with the fluttering of their fans. There are not any seats, consequently all must stand or adopt a similar alternative. However fatiguing to those unaccustomed to it, the effect is pleasing ; for instead of the noise and confusion that seats more or less occasion, a change of attitude is only indicated by a gentle wavy motion as they change from one position to the other : besides, the religious impression it produces, that there there is no exclusiveness — the rich and the poor, the humble and the great, find themselves all placed upon the same equality.