The Bible in Spain: Or, The Journeys, Adventures, and Imprisonments of an ...

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Preface

It is very seldom that the prefiice of a work is read ; indeed, of late years mod books have been sent into the world without any. I deem it, howeyer, advisable to write a pre&ce, and to this I hnmbly call the attention of Ihe eouteons reader, as its perosal will not a little tend to the proper understanding and appreciation of these yolnmes.

The work now offered to the public, and which is styled *' The Biblb in Spain," consists of a narratiye of what occurred to me during a residence in that country, to which I was sent by the Bible Society, as its a«ent, for the purpose of printing and circulating the Scriptures. It comprehends, however, certain joumejs and adventures in Portugal, and leaves me at last in ** the land of the Corahai," to which region, after having undergone considerable buffeting in Spain, I found it expedient to retire for a season.

It is very probable that had I visited Spain tram mere curiosity, or with a Tiew of passing a year or two agreeably, I should never have attempted to give any detailed account of my proceedings, or of what I heard and saw. I am no touristy no writer of books of travels ; but I went there on a somewhat remarkable errand, which necessarily led me into strange situations and positions, involved me in difficidties and perplexities, and brought me into contact with people of all descriptions and grades; so that, upon the whole, I flatter myself that a nairative of such a pilgrimage may not be wholly uninteresting to tbe public, more especiaUy as the subject is not trite ; for, though various books have been publisned about Spain, I believe that the present is the only one in existence which treats of missionary labour in that country.

Many things, it is true, will be found in the following volume which have little connexion with reli^on, or religious enterprise; I offer, however, no apology for introducing tiiem. I was, as I may say, from first to last adrift in Spain, the land of old renown, the land of wonder and mystery, with better opportunities of becoming acquainted with its strange secrets and peculiarities than, perhaps, ever yet were afforded to any individual, certainly to a foreigner ; and if in many instances I have introduced scenes and characters perhaps unprecedented in a work of this description, I have only to observe, that, during my sojourn in Spain, I was so unavoidably mixed up with such, that I could scarcely have ^ven a fiuthfol narrative of what befell me had I not brought them for^ ward m the manner which I have done.

It is worthy of remark, that, called suddenly and unexpectedly ** to undertake the adventure of Spam," I was not altogether unprepared for such an enterprise. In the day-dreams of my boyhood, Spain always bore a considerable shaxe, and I took a particular interest in her, without any presentiment that I should, at a future time, be called upon to take a part, however humble, in her strange dramas; which interest, at a very early period, led me to acquire her noble language, and to make myself acquainted with her literature (scarcely worthy of tiie language), her history, and traditions ; so that when I entered Spain for the first time I felt more at home than I should otherwise have done.

In Spam I passed five years, which, if not the most eventftd, were, I have no hesitation in saying, the most happy years of my existence. Of Spain at the present time, now that the day-dreun has vanished, never, alas I to return, I entertain the wannest admiration : she is the most magnificent countryin the world, probably the most fertile, and certainly with the finest dimate. Whether her children are worthy of their mother, is another question, which I shall not attempt to answer ; but content myself with observing that, amongst much that is lamentable and reprehenable, I have found much that is noble and to be ad-

b iv PREFACE.

mired: much stem heroic virtue; much savage and horrible crime; of Ion vulgar vice very little, at least amongst the great body of ihe Spanish nation, with which my mission lay ; for it wiU be as well here to observe that I advance no claim to an intimate acquaintance with the Spanish nobility, from whom I kept as remote as circumstances would permit me ; en revanche, however, I have had the honour to live on familiar terms with the peasants, shepherds, and muleteers of Spain, whose bread and bacalao I have eaten ; who always treated me with kindness and courtesy, and to whom I have not unfirequently been indebted for shelter and protection.

** The generous bearing of Frandaco Gonzales, and the high deeds of Ruy Diax the Cid, axe still sung amongst the fastnesses of the ^erxa Morena." *

I believe that no stronger argument can be brought forward in proof of ihe natural vigour and resources of Spain, and the sterling character of her popula* tion, than the &ct that, at the present day, she is still a powerful and unexhausted country, and her children still, to a certain extent, a high-minded and great people. Yes, notwithstanding ihe misrule of the brutal and sensual Austrian, the doting Bourbon, and, above all, the spiritual tyranny of ihe court of Rome, Spain can still maintain her own, fight her own combat, and Spaniards are not yet fanatic slaves and crouching beggars. This is saying much, very much: she has undergone &r more-tluLn Naples had ever to bear, and yet the ikte of Naples has not been hers. There is still valour in Asturia, generosity in Aragon, probity in Old Castile, and the peasant women of La Mancha can still afford to place a silver fork and a snowy napkin beside the plate of their guest. Ye^ in spite of Austrian, Bourbon, and Rome, there is still a wide gulf between Spain and Naples.

Strange as it may sound, Spain is not a ^smatic country. I know something about her, and declare that she is not, nor has ever been : Spain never changes. It is true that, for nearly two centuries, she was the she-butcher. La Verdugti, of malignant Rome ; the chosen instrument for carrying into effect the atrocious projects of that power ; yet fanaticism was not the spring which impelled her to the work of butchery : another feeling, in her the predominant one, was worked upon — her £sital pride. It was by humouring her pride that she was induced to waste her precious blood and treasure in the Low Country wars, to launch the Armada, and to many other equally insane actions. Love of Rome had ever slight influence over her policy ; but, flattered by the title of Gon&loniera of the Vicar of Jesus, and eager to prove herself not unworthy of the same, she shut her eyes, and rushed upon her own destruction with the cry of ** Charee, Spain!"

But the arms of Spain became powerless abroad, and she retired within herself. She ceased to be the tool of the vengeance and cruelty of Rome. She was not cast aside, however. No ! though she could no longer wield the sword with success against the Lutherans, she might still be turned to some account. She had still gold and silver, and she was still the land of the vine and olive. Ceasing to be the butcher, she became the banker of Rome; and the poor Spaniards, who always esteem it a privilege to pay another person's reckoning, were for a long time happy in being permitted to minister to the grasping cupidity of Rome, who, during the last century, probably extracted from Spain more treasure than from all the rest of Christendom.

But wars came into the land. Napoleon and his fierce Franks invaded Spain ; plunder and devastation ensued, the effects of which will probably be felt for ages. Spain could no longer pay pence to Peter so freely as of yore, and fh>]n that period she became contemptible la the eyes of Rome, who has no respect

PREFACE. ▼

for a nation, sare so fiur as it can minister to her eruelty or ararioe. Th« ^mniard was still willing to pay, as &r as his means woold allow, but he wai soon giyen to understand that he was a degraded being, — a barbarian ; nay, a be^^ar. Now yon may draw the last coarto firom a Spaniard, provided you wuT oonoede to him the title of cavalier, and ridi man, for the old leaven still works as powerfully as in the time of the first Philip ; but you must never hint that he is jpoor, or that his blood is inferior to your own. And the old peasant, oa being infonned in what slight estimation he was held, replied, ** If I am a beast, a barbarian, and a beggar withal, I am sorry fior it ; but, as there is no remedy, I shall spend these four bushels of barley, which I had reserved to alleviate the misery of the holy fkther, in procuring bull spectacles, and other ooDYenient diversions, for the queen my wife, and the young princes m^ children. Beggar! carajo! The water of my village is better than the wine of BcMne."

I see that in a late pastoral letter directed to the Spaniards, the fother of Borne complains bitterly of the treatment which he has received in Spun at the hands of naughty men. ** My cathedrals are let down," he says, ** my priests are insulted, and the revenues of m^ bidiops are curtailed." He consoles himseli^ however, with the idea, that this is the effect of the malice of a few, and that the generalitr of the nation love him, especially the peasantry, the innocent peasantry, who shed tears when they think of the suffermgs of tiieir po^ and their rehgion. UndeceiTe yourself Batnschca, undeodve yourself I Spain was ready to fight for you so long as she could increase her own glory by doing so ; but she took no pleasure in losing batde after battie on your account. She had no objection to .pay money into your coffers in the shape of alms, expecting, however, that the same would be received with the gratitude and humility which become those who aocept charity. Finding, however, that you were ndther humble nor gratefiil ; suspecting, moreover, that you held Austria in higher esteem than herself, even as a banker, she shrugged up her shoulders, and uttered a sentence somewhat similar to that which I have already put into the mouth of one of her children, ** These four bushels of barley," &c.

It is truly surpriang what little interest the great body of the Spanish nation took in the late stm^le ; and yet it has been called by some, who ought to know better, a war of rehgion and principle. It was generally supposed that Biscay was the stron^old of Carlism, and that the inhabitants were mnatically attached to their religion, which they apprehended was in danger. The truth is, that the Basques cared nothing for Carlos or Rome, and merely took up arms to defend certain rights and privileges of their own. For the dwarfish brother of Ferdinand th^ always exhibited supreme contempt, which his character, a compound of imbecility, cowardice, and cruelty, well merited. If th^ made use of his name, it was merely as a crt die guerre. Much the same may be said with respect to his Spanish partisans, at least those who appeared in the field for him. These, however, were of a widely different character fhnn the Basques, who were braYC soldiers and honest men. The Spanish armies of Don Carlos were composed entirely of thieves and assassins, chiefly Valencians and Manchegans, who, marshalled under two cut-throats, Cabrera and Palilloe, took advantage of the distracted state of the country to plunder and massacre the honest part of the community. With respect to the Queen Regent Christina, of whom the less said the better, the reins of government fell into her hands on the decease of her husDand, and widi them the command of the soldierY. The respectable part of the Spanish nation, and more especially the honourable and tnl-wom peasantry, loathed and execrated both foctions. Oft when I was sharine at night&ll the frugal fiure of the villager of Old or New Castile, on hearing me distant shot of the Christino soldier <Mr Carlist bandit, he would invoke curses on the heads of the two pretenders, not forgetting the holy fother and the goddess of Rome, Maria Santissima. Then, with t& tiger energy of the Spaniard when roused, he would start

6 2

Ti PREFACE.

\ip and exclaim, ** Vamos, Don Jorge, to the plain, to the plain ! I wten to enlist with you, and to learn the law of the English. To the plain, therefore, to tfa« plain to-morrow, to circulate the gospel of Ingalaterra."

Amongst the peasantry of Spain I found my sturdiest supporters ; and yet the holy &ther supposes that the Spanish labourers are friends and lovers of his. Undeceive yourself, Batoschca I

But to return to the present work : it is devoted to an account of what befell me in Spain whilst engaged in distributing the Scripture. With respect to my poor labours, I wish here to observe, that I accomplished but very little, and that I lay claim to no brilliant successes and triumphs ; indeed I was sent into Spain more to explore the country, and to ascertain how far the minds of the people were prepared to receive the truths of Christianity, than for any other object ; I obtained, however, through the assistance of kind friends, permission fix)m the Spanish government to print an edition of the sacred volume at Madrid, which I subsequently circulated in that capital and in the provinces.

During my sojourn in Spain there were others who wrought good service in the Gospel cause, and of whose efforts it were unjust to be silent in a work of this description. Base is the heart which would refuse merit its meed ; and, however insignificant may be the value of any eulogium which can flow from a pen like mine, I cannot refrain from mentioning with respect and esteem a few names connected with Gktspel enterprise. A zealous Irish gentleman, of the name of Graydon^ exerted himself with inde&tigable diligence in diffiising the light of Scripture in the province of Catalonia, and along Sie southern diores of Spain ; whilst two missionaries from Gibraltar, Messrs. Rule and Lyon, during one entire year, preached Evangelic truth in a church at Cadiz. So much success attended the efforts of these two last, brave disciples of the immortal Wesley, that there is every reason for supposing that, had the^ not been silenced, and eventually banished from the country, by the pseudo-liberal faction of the Moderados, not only Cadiz, but the greater part of Andalusia, would by this time have confessed the pure doctrines of the Gospel, and have discarded for ever the last relics of popish superstition.

More immediately connected with the Bible Society and myself, I am most happy to take this opportunity of speaking of Luis de Usoz y Rio, the scion of an ancient and honourable &mily of Old Castile, my coadjutor whilst editing the Spanish New Testament at Madrid. Throughout my residence in Spam I experienced every mark of friendship tcom tibis gentleman, who, during the periods of my absence in the provinces, and my numerous and long joumeyis, cbeerAilly supplied my place at Madrid, and exerted himself to the utmost in forwarding the views of the Bible Society, influenced by no other motive than a hope that its efforts would eventually contribute to the peace, happiness, and civilization of his native land.

In conclusion, I beg leave to state that I am fully aware of the various &ults and inaccuracies of the present work. It is founded on certain journals which I kept during my stay in Spain, and numerous letters written to my friends in England, which they had subsequently the kindness to restore ; the greater part, however, consisting of descriptions of scenery, sketches of character, &c., has been supplied from memory. In various instances I have omitted the names of places, which I have either forgotten, or of whose orthography I am uncertain. The work, as it at present exists, was written in a solitary Immlet in a remote part of England, where I had neither books to consult, nor friends of whose opinion or advice I could occasionally avail myself, and under all the aisadvantages which arise from enfeebled health ; I have, however, on a recent occasion, experienced too much of the lenity and ^erosity of the public, both of Britain and America, to shrink from again exposmg myself to its gaze ; and trust that, if in the present volumes it find but little to admire^^t will give me credit Ibr good spirit, and for setting down nought in malice^d by GoO^

Chapter I

Han Orerbourd — ^The Taffva^-Poreign Laniniagea— Ge8ticttlation--%treeto of Lisbon — ^The Aqaedact— Bible tolerated in Portugal— Cintra— Don Sebastian— John de Cbstio— Gonyenation with a Priest— Colhares — Mafra — Ito Palace — The Schoolmaster—The Portuguese— Their Ignorance of Scriptuze— RuralPriesthood— The Alemtejo page 1

Chapter II

Boatmen of the Tsfos — Dangers of the Stream— Aldea Gafiega— The Hostelry- Robbers — Sabocha>— Adventure of a Muleteer — Estalagem de Ladroes— Don Geronimo — ^Vendas Novas— Royal Kesidenoe— Swine of the Alemtejo— Monte Moro— Swayne Vonved — Singular Goatherd — Children of the Fields— J nfldels and Sbddocees •• g

CHAPTER m.

Sho|>keeper at Bvora— Spanish Contiabandistaa— Lion and Unicom— The Fountain — Trnst in the Almi^ty— ^Distribution of

Tracts — Library at EvorSr-Manuscript

The Bible as a Guide— The inikmous Mary —The Man of Ptdmella— The Charm— The Monkish System — Sunday — Volney— An Auto da-fSe — ^Men from Spain<— Reading of a Tract— New Arrival— The Herb Rosemwy 14

Chapter IV

Vexations Delays — Drunken Driver— The Muideied Mule — ^The Lamentation — Adventure on the Heath— Fear of Darkness — Portngnese Fidalgo— The Escort— Return to Lisbon 180

Chapter V

The College — The Rector — Shibboldtii— National Prejudices— YouthAil Sports — lews of Lisbon — Crime and Superstition 25

CHAPTER VL

Gold of Portugal— ^Extortion pravented— Sensation of Loneliness— The Dog— The Convent — Enchanting Landscape — Moorish Fortresses — Plrayer for the Sick • • • . 80

CHAPTER Vn.

The Druids* Stone— The Tonns op

Ruffianly Soldiers— Evils of Wm— i. ^,

— The Brawl — Ruined Watch Tower — Glimpse of Spain— Old Times and New . »

CHAPTER Vin.

Elvas— Extraordinary Longevity— The English Nation— Portuguese Ingratitude— IlBberality— Fortifications— Spanish Begira^- Badiyoa— The Custom-Honse . . . . . 40

CHAPTER IX.

Badiyos— Antonio the Gypsy — Antonio's Proposal— The Proposal accepted— Gypsy Breakfast^Departure from &di^o»— The GvTDSY Donkev— Merida— The Ruined Wall —The Crone --fhe Land of the Moor— The Black Men Life in the Desert— The Supper 46

CHAPTER X.

The Gypsy's Granddaughter^Proposed Marriage—The Alguazil— The Assault— Speedy Trot— Arrival at Trujillo— Night and Rain —The Forest— The Bivouae— Mount and away !-^araiceJo— The National— The Cavalier Balmerson— Among the Thickets- Serious Discourse— What is Truth ?— Unexpected Intelligence 52

CHAPTER XI.

The Pass of Mirabete— Wolves and Shepherds —Female Subtlety— Death by Wolves— The Mysterysolved— The Mou nUins— The Dark Hour— The Traveller of the Night— Abarbenel— Hoarded Treasure— Force of Gold— The Archbishop— Arrival at Madrid . .68

CHAPTER Xn.

Lodging at Madrid— My Hostess— British Ambassador — Mendizabal — Baltazar— Duties of a National— Young Blood— The Execution — Population of Madrid — The Higher Orders— The Lower Classes— The Bull Fighter-The Crabbed Gitino . . .69

CHAPTER Xm.

Intrigues at Court— Quesada and Galiano— Dissolution of the Cortes— The Secretary— Aragonese Pertinacity — The Council of Trent— The Aaturian— The Three Thieves — Benedict Mol — The Men of Lucerne— The Treasure 76

Tlii

CONTENTS.

CHAFTEE XIV.

Skate of Sp^n— Itturlts— Berolation of the Oninja— The Disturbance — Sigiu of MiB> ehief— Newimper Beporters- Qaeaada's Onslaoffhtr-The Closinff Seene— Flight of the ModeradoiH-The Coffee Bowl . . .82

CHAPTER XV.

The Steamer— Cape Finifterra— The Storm Arrival at Cadis— The New Teatament— SevUle— Italicar-The Amphitheatre— The Prisoners— The Eneoontez^-Baron Taylor —The Street and Desert 88

CHAPTER XVI.

Departure for Cordova— Carmona— German Colonies— Language— The Sluggish Horse —Nocturnal Welcome — Carlist Landlord — Good Advice— Gomet— The Old Genoese — The Two Opinions 94

CHAPTER XVIL

Cordova— Moors of Barbary— The English— An Old Priest— The Roman Breviary— The Dovecote — ^The Holy OflBoe— Judaism— Deiecration of Dovecotes— The Innkeeper's Proposal 100

CHAPTER XVIII.

Departure fh>m Cordova— The Contrabandiata —Jewish Cunning— Arrival at Madrid . 106

CHAPTER XIX.

Arrival at Madrid— Maria Dias-Printing of the Testament — My Project— Andalusian Steed— Servant wanted— An Application- Antonio Buchini— General Cordova— Principles of Honour 108

CHAPTER XX.

Illness— Nocturnal Visit— A Master Mind— The Whisper — Salamanca — Irish Hospitality—Spanish Soldiers— The Scriptures advertised 114

CHAPTER XXI.

Departure from Salamanca — Reeepdon at Pitiegua— The Dilemma— Sudden Inspiration—The Good Presbyter— Combat of Quadrupeds — Irish Christians — Plains of Spain— The Catalans— The Fatal Pool— Valladolid— Circulation of the Scripture- Philippine Missions— English College — A Conversation- The Gaoleress . • .118

CHAPTER XXII.

Daefias — Children of Egypt— Jockeyism — The Baggage Pony— The Fall— Palencia— CaxUst Priests— The Look-out— Priestly Sincerity— Leon— Antonio alarmed— Heat and Dust 127

CHAPTER XXIII.

CHAPTER XXIV.

Departure from Astorga— The Vento— The By-path > Narrow Escape— The Cup of Water— Sun and Shade— Bembibre— Convent of the Rocks — Sunset— Gaeabelos— Midnight Adventure— ViUafranca . . 136

CHAPTER XXV.

Villafranca—The Pas8->Gallegan Simplicity «- The Frontier Guard— The Horse-shoe— GaUegan Peculiarities— A Word on Lan< ffuage— The Courier— Wretched Cabina— Host and Guests — ^Andaluaiant • • • . 143

CHAPTER XXVI.

Lugo— The Baths— A Family Hbtory— Miffueleta— The Three Heads— A Farrier— English Squadron— Sale of Testaments— Corufifr— "nie Recognition— Luigi Pioxsi— The Speculation— A Blank Prospect— John

Moore 149

CHAPTER XXVU.

Composteila— Rey Romero— The Treasure-seeker— Hopeful Project— The Church of Refkige— Hidden Riches- The Canon— Spi- . rit of Localism— <The Leper— Bonoe of Saint

Jamea 1&6

CHAPTER XXVin.

suppers of Padron— Caldos de loa Reyesf^ntevedra — The Notary Public — Insane Barber — ^An Introduction — Gallegan Language — Afternoon Ride — Vigo — The Stranger— Jews of the Desert— Bay of Vigo —Sudden Interruption — ^The Governor 162

CHAPTER XXIX.

Arrival at Padnm— Projected Enterprise— The Alquilador— Breach of Promise— An Odd Companion— A Plain Story — RugvedPatlis —The Desertion— The Pony— A Dialogue- Unpleasant Situation— The Estadea— Benighted- The Hut— The Traveller's Pillow 169

CHAPTER XXX.

Autumnal Morning— Tlie World's- End— Corcuvion— Duyo— The Cape- A Whale— The Outer Bay— The Arrest— The Fisher-Magistrate — Calros Rey— Hard of Belief— where is your Passport ?— The Beach— A mighty Liberal — The Handmaid — The Grand Baintham— Eccentric Book — Hospitality 177

CHAPTER XXXI.

Corufia — Crossing the Bay — Ferrol — The Dock-Yard — Where are we now?— Greek

- Ambassador — Lantern- Light— The Ravine —Viveiro— Evening — Manh imd Quagmire —Fair Words and Fair Money-— The Leatheru Girth— Eyes of Lynx- -The Knavish Guide ' 186

CHAPTER XXXIL

Martin of Rivadeo— The Factious Mare— Asturians — Luarca — The Seven Bellotas — Hermits — The Asturian's Tale — Stranse Gnesta— The Big Servant— Batuachca . 193

CONTENTS.

iz

CHAPTER XXXm.

(hriedo— The Ten Gentlemen— The Swin affain— Modest Request— The Robbers — Episcopal Benerolence — The Cathedral— Portrait of Feijoo IM

CHAPTER XXXIY.

Dmitnre ftom Oviedo— Villa Vkio»— The Yoonff Man of the Inn— Antonio's Tale— The General and his Family— Wofbl Tidings— To-morrow we Die— 1^ Tincente— SantMider;—An Haiangoe— FUnter the Iriahman 204

CHAPTER XXXV.

CHAPttiR XXXVI.

State of Affairs at Madrid— The New Ministry —Pope of Rome— The Boolcseller of Toledo — Sword Bladea— Houses of Toledo— The Forlorn Gypsy— Proceedings at Madrid— Another ScnrVant 212

CHAPTER XXXVn

Eoaeam — Basque not Irish — Sanscrit and Tartar Dialects — ^A Vowel Language —Popular Poetry— The Basques— Their Persons — ^Basque Women 217

CHAPTER XXXVni.

The Prohibition— Gospel persecuted— Charge ofSoroery— Ofklia 221

CHAPTER XXXDC

The Two Gospels— The Alguazil— The Warrant—The Good Maria^The Arrest— Sent to Prison— Reflections— The Reception— The Prison Room— Redress demanded . 224

CHAPTER XL.

fklia— The Jnex— Carcel de la Corte— Sunday in Prison— Robber Dress— Father and Son — Characteristic Behaviour ~ The Frenchman— Prison Allowance— Valley of the Shadow— Pure Castilian-Balseiro— The Qive— Robber Glory 230

CHAPTER XLI.

Maria Diax— Priestly Vituperation— Antonio's Vint — ^Antonio at Service— A Scene— Benedict Mol— Wandering in Spain— Tlie Four Evangiles 23b

CBLAPTER XLH.

Liberation from Prison— The Apology— Human Nature— The Greek's Return— Church of RonM— Light of Scripture— Archbishop of Toledo— An Interview— Stones of Price —A Resolution — ^The Foreign Lai^uage — Benedict's Farewell— Treasure Hunt at CompostelU— Truth and Fiction . . .24*^

CHAPTER XLin.

Villa Seea— Moorish House— The Pndiei»— The Rustic CouncQ— Polite Ceremonial The Flower of Spain— The Bridge of Aaeen —The Ruined Csstle— Taking the Field— Demand for the Word— The Old Peasant— The Curate and Blacksmith— Cheapness of the Scriptures 849

CHAPTER XUV

Aranjnes— A Warning— A Night Adrentora —A fresh Expeditio " " "

CHAPTER XLV.

Return to Spain-Seville— A hoary Persecutor— Manchegan Prophetess— Antonio's Dream gel

CHAPTER XLVI.

Work of Distribution resumed — Adventure at Cobenna— Power of the Clergy— Rural Authorities — Fuentela Higuera— Victoriano's Mishap— Village Prison— The Rope— Antonio's Em ^d— Antonio at Mass ... .204

CHAPTER XLVIL

Termination of our Rural Labours— Alarm of the Clergy— A New Experiment— J3ueeess at Madrid— Goblin- Alguazil— Staff of Office The Corregidor — An Explanation — The Pope in England— New Testament expounded— Works of Luther . . . . «S6f

CHAPTER XLVm.

Projected Journey— A Scene of Blood— The Friar— Seville - Beauties of Seville— Orange Trees and Flowers— Murillo— Hie Guardian Angel— Dionysins— My Coadjuton — Demand for the Bible 274

CHAPTER XLIX.

The Solitary House— The Dehes»— Johannes Chrysostom — ^Manuel — Bookselling at Seville — ^Dionysitts and the Priests— Athens and Rome— Proselytism— Seizure of Testaments — Departure from Seville .... 279

CHAPTER L.

Niffht on the Guadalquivii^Gospel Light— fionanza— Strand of San Lucar — Andalusian Scenery— History of a Chest— Cosas de lot Ingleses— The Two Gypsies— The Driver— The Red Nightcap— The Steam Boat- Christian Language 284

CHAPTER LI.

Cadiz— The Fortifications— The Consul-General — CSiaracteristic Anecdote — Catalan Steamer — Trafidgar — Alonzo Guzman — Gibil Muza^-Orestes Frigate— The Hostile Lion— Works of the Creator^Lizard of the Rock— The Concourse— Queen of the Waters— Broken Prayer 890

CONTENfTS.

CHAPTER LII.

The Jolly Hotteler—Aspinnts for Glory— A Portrait— Hamilos — Solomona — An Expe* dition— The Yeoman Soldier^— The Excavationa— The Poll by the Skirt— Jndah and his Father— Jadah*8 Pilgrimase— TheBuahy Beard«-The Falae Moors— Judah and the King's Son— Prematore Old Age . . . 898

CHAPTER UIT.

Genoese Mariners— St. Michael's Cave— Midnight Abysses — Young American — ^A Slave Proprietor— The Fairy Man— Infidelity 806

CHAPTER UV.

Again on Board— The Strange Visage— The Ka^ji— SettingSail— The Two Jews— American Vessel-^Tanffier— Adun Oulem— The Straggle— The Forbidden Thing • . . 810

CHAPTER LV.

The Mole— The Two Moors— Dimah of Tan* gier^Hoose of God— British Consul— Curi. ons Spectacle— The Moorish House— Joanna Correa— Ave Maii& S15

CHAPTER LVI.

The Mahasni— Sin Samani- The Bssaar- Moorish Saints— See the Ayanal— The Prickly Fig-Jewish Giavee— The Place of Carcases— The Stable Boy— Horses of the Moslem— Dar Dwag 819

CHAPTER LVII.

Strange Trio— The Mulatto— The "Pemee-vSeting— Moorsof G^ranada^-Viye la Guadeloupe —The Moors— Paacual Fava— Blind Algerine— The Retreat 384 infe

BIBLE IN SPAIN.

Chapter I

Han orerbottrd— The Tagn*— Foreign Langaag ee O e e t i caUtlon— Sfaecte of Liabon— IIm Aquedact^Bible tolerated in Portagal— Cintr»— Don Sebastian-John de Gaitro— Coaver* ■ation with a Priest— Colhaies—Mafira— Its Palace— The Schoolmaatei— The Portqgneae— Their Ijgnoranoe of Scripture— Rural Prieathood- The Alemtejo.

On the mornixig of the 10th of November, 1835, 1 found myself off the coast of Galida, whose lofty mountains, gild^l by the rising sun, presented a magnificent appearance. I was bound for Lisbon ; we passed Cape Finisterre, and, standing &rther out to sea, speedily lost sight of land. On the morning of the 11th the sea was very rough, and & remarkable circumstance occiurred. I was on the forecastle, discoursing with two of ihe sailors : one of them, who had but just left his hammock, said, ** I have had a strange dream, which I do not much like ; for," continued he, pointing up to the mast, " I dreamt that I fell mto the sea fix)m the cross-trees.** He was heard to say this by several of the crew besides myself. A moment after, the captain of the vessel, perceiving that the squall was increasing, ordered the topsails to be taken m, whereupon this man, with several others, instantly ran aloft ; the yard was in tihe act of being hauled down, when a sudden gust of wind whirled it round withwiolcnce. and a man was struck down fh)m the cross-trees into the sea, which was working like yeast below. In a short time he dmeiged ; I saw his head on the crest of a bUlow, and instantly recognised in the unfortunate man the sailor who, a &w mtomentB before, had related his dream. I shall never forget the look of a^uy he cast whilst the steamer humed past him. The alarm was g^iven, and ever3rthing was in confusion; it was two minutes at least before the vessel was stopped, by which time the man was a considerable way astern ; I still, however, kept my eye upon him, and could see that he was struggling gallantly with the waves. A boat was at length lowered, but the rudder was unfortunatelv not at hand, and only two oars could be procured, with which the men could make but little progress in so rough a sea. They did their best, however, and had arrived within ten yards of the man, who still struggled for his life, when I lost sight of mm ; and the men, on their return, said that they saw him below the water, at glimpses, sinking deeper and deeper, his arms stretched out, and his body apparently stif^ but that th«y found it impossible to save him : presently after, the sea, as if satisfied witii the prey which it had acquired, became comparatively calm. The poor fellow who perished in this angular manner was a fine young man of twenty-seven, the only son of a widowed motner ; he was the best sailor on board, and was beloved by all who were acquainted with him. This event occurred on the 11th of November, 1835; the vessel