Cookery: its art and practice : the history, science and practical import of the art of cookery, with a dictionary of culinary terms

Preface

Cookery has attained its present development by a long process of experimental empiricism, at which all mankind has laboured from very early days of its existence. Such being its origin, the only means for its transmission and perpetuation was apprenticeship. The earliest records of acquired knowledge assumed the form of unconnected recipes, which were mostly handed down from generation to generation, and even when they received greater publicity, and were made easier of access by the printing press, they preserved this character of incoherency. Their contents and form rose somewhat in quality with the progress of the art itself, and these improvements attained their highest development about the middle of the last century. But during the time which has elapsed since that special renaissance, a distinct retrogression in culinary literature is perceptible, as shown by compromises with the demand for excellence in all its branches, and diagnosed at once by humanists accustomed to what one of its greatest exponents has termed the manly and elegant style of magiric art.

Great as has been the number of printed books which recited rolls of prescriptions for the preparation of food, yet amongst them there does not occur any systematic attempt to express

VI

PREFACE the acquired knowledge in the shape of general rules, such as would result from a codification of principles. The great mass of detail seems to have prevented its organization in the shape of a logical system, and it became, consequently, a matter of great difficulty to teach and use it in practical life with celerity and ease.

In the present treatise it has been attempted to produce such a system of general rules as will enable those who thoroughly master them to perform the principal culinary operations without reference to the frequently unintelligible records of the details of mere empiricism. These rules are based in the first place upon unimpeachable scientific data or fundamental truths which admit of no circumvention or compromise, but have to be obeyed under pain of certain failure. This obedience has at once its ample reward in clearing the subject of a mass of errors and delusions which disfigure it as a science, and impair its utility, and in placing into the hands of operators the means of attaining their object with certainty and elegance.

Physiological deduction proves that perfect cookery is the greatest economy, and that no cookery is rational which does not attain the utmost theoretically possible effect, namely, the production of the highest physiological force. Physicians have many opportunities for observing the effect of various kinds of food and different modes of preparation upon the several classes of society, and have not rarely to advise on their selection and use. By combining with this function the study of individualities and their possible idiosyncrasies they practise the art of dietetics. It is believed and hoped that the medical profession will find in this work many materials to assist them in dietetic disquisitions, and in the synthesis of rules to give into the

PREFACE

Vll hands of patients or their providers. Such advice is often asked for, and is always well received ; and this experience has been one of the motives for the composition of this treatise.

While including special applications such as the foregoing, it has been the aim of the author to make the work general, comprehensive, and popular, and adapted to the use either directly or through intelligent intermediaries of all classes of the community. Housewives more particularly may find therein information which will enable them to guide and direct the practical operations of their household as far as it is concerned with what in classical English is called nurture, the raising up as well as maintaining sound physical constitutions, and the agreeable conduct of social relations.

The recognition by our educators that the elementary principles of rational food preparation might with advantage be imparted to the growing generation has resulted in the introduction of cookery as a subject of instruction in public schools. The body of the actual teaching, so far as it could be observed, exhibited the goodwill of the teachers grappling with an unwieldy subject, without their attaining such results as the opportunity might secure. Hitherto there has been no comprehensive system available which could be taught in classes by means of a primer, and to make up for this deficiency practical demonstrations so called, gleaned from the manner in which instruction in natural sciences is given, were , made part of the teaching. Such practical classes are a beginning towards the tilling of the soil, on which the seed of elementary scientific generalization might hereafter bring growth and crop. But the oral teaching reflects the condition of indifferent practice, namely, the

PREFACE viii

want of system, with the additional disadvantage of its being circumscribed in scope by the erroneous presumption that it must be adapted to the narrowest circumstances only, and not include application to the wants of the most numerous classes. But as a knowledge of cookery is of general necessity, its teaching must be, even when quite elementary, of universal applicability.

There is much evidence in favour of collateral advantages which good cookery may, and does, confer upon society, e.g., in preventing and counteracting the too common tendency to excessive consumption of alcoholic liquids. In relation thereto also it may be hoped that this treatise will contribute to the progress of hygienic knowledge and conduct, and thus aid on all sides in the evolution and practice of humanitarian principles, and in the embellishmen and prolongation of human existence.

11, Pembroke Gardens,

London, W.

CONTENTS OF CHAPTERS.

Chapter I. Objects And Results Of Cookery

PAGE

The Evolution of Cookery as illustrating its Present Aims and Objects— Adaptation of Cookery to the Conditions, Ages, and Fortunes of Men — Distinction between the Nutritive and AEsthetical Value of Food as illustrated by ‘Bread and Cake’ — Further Illustrations of Evolution — Confectionery as a Measure of Culture — Qualifications for Authorship in Cookery — Physicians as Authors on Cookery — Acquirements necessary for Authorship — Illustration derived from the Case of Cardons — Illustration derived from the Case of Kumys — Example of the French 1 Bain-Marie’ — Example of the German ‘ Kraft-Briihen ’ — The Delusion of Economical Cookery with ‘ Scraps costing Nothiug ’ — Faire sourire le Pot-au-feu ------ l — 20

Chapter II. Sketch Of The Historic Literature Of Cookery

Different Interpretations of Ancient Writers — Romans and Greeks — Authors during and since the Renaissance — Early English Books on Cookery — Italian Group of Authors — Spanish, French, and German Authors — The Seventeenth Century : Principal Authors in all Countries— The Eighteenth Century : French Literature takes the Lead —

The Eighteenth and Nineteenth Centuries : English Culinary Works — Modern Publications, French and English — Latest French Literature — Latest German Works - - 20 — 51

X

CHAPTER II r.

KITCHEN REQUISITES AND CULINARY AXIOMS.

. PAGE

T urmture and Appai’atus required in a well-appointed Kitchen — Movable Apparatus required for an Ordinary Establishment— Consideration of the Materials of which the Utensils should be made — Apparatus for Keeping, Weighing, and Measuring — Culinary Axioms, or General Presumptions and Rules, which Cooks are expected to know and observe ------- 51 — 63

Chapter IV. General Consideration Of Culinary Processes

Boiling, Baking, Roasting, Frying, Grilling — Boiling : Cooking of Eggs — Kitchiner's Two Mutton Chops — Some Special Considerations regarding the Boiling of Meat — Baking : Baking of Meat — Baking in Ovens of Kitchens — Roasting : Management of Dripping — Time occupied by the Roasting of Meat — Dredging and Basting — Typical Forms of Dishes, or Sauces and Ragouts, as Means of Generalization : Definition of French Surnames of Dishes — The Influence of Temporary or Permanent Abstinence from Certain Kinds of Food upon the Practice of Cookery - - - 64 — 86

Chapter V

SALINE, MINERAL, ACID, AND SWEET VEGETABLE CONDIMENTS ; SPICES, AROMATIC SUBSTANCES AND HERBS ; CULINARY COLOURING MATTERS.

Definitions — Note on the History of Condiments — Classification of Condiments — First Five Groups — Essences or Tinctures of Spices — List of Green Condiments so called — Sixth Group: Acid Condiments — Seventh Group: Odoriferous Parts of Plants — Eighth Group: Culinary Colouring Matters — Ninth Group: Sugar and its Modifications — Spiced Pepper and Spiced Salt - • - 86 — 104

Chapter VI

BOUILLON, OK MEAT-BROTH ; ITS DEVELOPMENT AND RbLE IN THE HISTORY OF COOKERY.

Historical Introduction — Discovery of Extract of Meat by Louis Proust — Bouillon Tablets and Glace — Common Stock, or Grand (General or Store) Stock — New Principles xi

PAGE

for the Preparation and Use of Standard Broth— Preparation of Stock as commonly understood — Boiling Bones and Production of Gelatine — Definition and Production of Glace — Difference between Broth and Gravy : Caramel of Meat - Extract — The Principal Constituents of Meat as Sources of Culinary Educts — Proportion of Bones to Meat in Various Animals — Fat of Meat, and its Proportions in Various Animals — Note on the History of Researches concerning Gelatine and its Use for Food, and of the Romance of the Bouillon d’Os ----- 104 — 133

Chapter VII

THE PRACTICE OF PRODUCING BROTHS, GRAVIES, AND CONSOMMES OF BEEF, VEAL, MUTTON, FOWL, AND GAME, AND THEIR USE WITH SOUPS AND SAUCES.

General Observations — Gravy-Broth (Empotage or Consomme) for Soups and Sauces in General (Grand Consomme pour Potage et Sauce) : Definition and Recipe — Beef-Gravy, or Common (Brown) Gravy — Beef-broth from the Pot -au- Feu of Smaller French Households : Practical Consideration of these Recipes — Dietetic Value of Bouillon and Bouilli obtained in these Processes — Instantaneous Broth, or Bouillon a la Minute — Veal Gravy-Broth, or Blond cle Veau in Literature — Blond de Veau a la Duchatelet, by Tronchin — Veal Gravy-Broth, or Blond de Veau — Veal- Broth, Plain and Meagre, with Rice or Vermicelli — -Mutton- Broth : General Observations and Recipe — Hotch-Potch — Gravy-Broth of Fowls — White Broth of Fowls, Chicken- Broth — Application of Broths for the Production of Soup — The Addition of Bread in Various Forms to Soup — Synoptical Classification of Soups in Ten Divisions - 134 — 152

Chapter VIII

ILLUSTRATIONS OF THE EVOLUTIONAL TRANSITION OF GRUEL AND POT-AU-FEU TO CLEAR AND COMPOUND SOUPS OF EVERY KIND.

Julienne Soup : its Definition, History, and Modifications — Julienne a la Languedocienne — Julienne a la Nivernaise — Jardiniere or Priutaniere Soup and its Modifications — Jardiniere a la Vertpr6 — Observations on Clear Soup so called, and the Gradual Deterioration of Soups during the Present Century - - 152—156 xii

Chapter IX. Soups Characterized By Particular Vegetables

PACK

General Observations — General Observations on Onion Soups : White Onion Soup au Gras, White Onion Soup au Maigre, Onion Soup a la Stanislas with Crusts, Compound Onion Soups- — Topiuambur Soup, Soup of Jerusalem Artichokes — Compound Spinach Soup — Soup of Puree of Spinach — Tomato Soup — Soups of Purees of Carrots, Turnips, and other/Vegetables, called Soups a la Crecy : General Note — Carrot Soup, Compound Carrot Soup, Puree of Carrot Soup— Soups of Mixed Vegetables : of Turnips, White and Brown, Turnips and Tomatoes — Soups of Lettuce, Cabbage, Spring Herbs, Artichoke, Endive, Leek, Salsifis, Cucumber, Gourd, Mushrooms ... 156 — 163

Chapter X. Soups Containing Cereals Or Their Products, Rice, Barley

RYE, WHEAT, ITALIAN PASTE, BREAD, POTATOES, CASSAVA, TAPIOCA.

Soups made with Rice : Ten Varieties— Soups made with Barley : Genei-al Observations on Culinary Barley — Soups,

Nine Varieties — Soups made with Italian Paste, Macaroni, Vermicelli, Lasagnes, Semolina, etc. : Note on Macaroni —

Nine Varieties of Italian Paste Soups- — Note on Semolina, Nouilles, Nudelu, and its Soups — Gratinated Crust Soups : Potages Croute au Pot — Seven Varieties of Soups — Soups made with Potatoes, Cassava, Tapioca : Six Varieties of Soups — Soup made with Rye : Green Corn Soup - 163 — 173

Chapter XI. Soups Made With Leguminous Seeds — Peas, Beans, Lentils, Soy

Titles of Twenty-one Soups — Extract of Spinach — Japanese Soy, India or China Soy — Garnishes to Leguminous Soups ------ 173 — 176

Chapter XII. Soups With Preparations Of Eggs, Dietetic Broths, And Panadas

Soups with Different Preparations of Eggs, e.g., Custards, Quenelles : Four Soups — Soups for Fast-days made with Vegetables, but without Meat — General Observations — Compound Vegetable Puree Soup (Vuillemot’s) — Cherry Soup — Beer Soups : Russian, German, and English — - xiii

PAGE

Dietetic Broths and Decoctions for Patients and Invalids : Decoctions of Snails and Frogs — Decoctions of Ceylon Moss and Iceland Moss — Panadas of Chicken and Game : Savoury Custards ----- 176 — 181.

Chapter XIII. Soups Characterized By Molluscs (shellfish), Articulates

FISHES AND REPTILES.

Mussel Soup— Yougoli Soup — Bisque or Crayfish Soup — Consideration of Proposed Amendments and Practical Variations : Compound Bisque — Crab, Lobster, and Prawn Soup — Six Soups — Fish Soups and other Soups for Fast-days — Fish-Broth — Vegetable Broth so called — Soup Sauces — Fifteen Fish Soups — Fish Souchets or Souchies : Souchy- Broth — Turtle Soup, Soupe a la Tortue a l'Anglaise — Sundried Turtle and Preserved Turtle Fat - - 182—197

Chapter XIV. Soups Made With Flesh Purees And Minces Of Fowl, Game

RABBIT, HARE, ETC. — COCK-A-LEEKY, MULLIGATUNNY AND HARE SOUP.

Chicken Puree Soup (Chiffouade) — Cock-a-Leeky — Mulligatunny, or Indian Kari — Kari or Curry-Powder — Kari Soup —Indian Curry, or Ragout — Soups of Quails, Snipes, Red-legged Partridges. Grouse, Pheasant — Hare Soup and Variations — Leverets and Rabbit Soups: Seven Soups 197 — 204

Chapter XV. Soups Representing Expanded Ragouts, Or Immersed (ensouped)

ENTREES.

Bouillabaisse, and Bouillabaisse of Marseille — Potage ala Bouride et a l’Aillolis — Bouillabaisse a la Nimoise — Ravioli, or Rabioles (Italian National Dish) — Fowl’s-liver Soup (Potage a la Camerani) ----- 204 — 207

Chapter XVI. Soups Made For The Utilization Of Giblets, Skeletons, Heads

AND TAILS.

Ox-Cheek Soup — Deer’s-Head Soup — Calf’s-Head or Mock- Turtle Soup — Sheep’s-Head Soup : Heroic Soup — Welsh or Pig’s-ILead Soup — Ox-Tail Soup — Calf’s-Tail and Calf’s- Feet Soup - - - - - 207 — 210

XIV

CHAPTER XYir.

NATIONAL SOUPS AND COMPOUND DISHES.

PAGE

Olla and Puchero : Oille a la Franyaise — Oille eu Potage a l’Ancienne Mode — Oille Gratinee a la Navarroise — Spanish E panada — Catalan Longuet — Sopa— Polish Ragout or Soup (Barszcze, Borsch)- — Russian Soup (Ouka) — Russian Cabbage Soup (Tschi) — Pilau, or Pilaff, Turkish Pilaff, Zurdah Pilawo — Valencia Rice — Pepper-pot Soup — Chinese Bird's-Nest Soup — Japanese BechecleMer Soup — Chutneesor Chutneys: of Tomato, Cucumber, Bunjal, Cocoanut, Mint, Cranberry, Tamarind, Potato, Mango, Apple and Gooseberry — Grand Salad, an Old English Chutnee : Joan Cromwell’s Grand Salad — Curry (Kari) Powders and Pastes — Curries considered as Fricassees — Varieties of Curry : Malay or Ceylon Curry — Moli Curry — Kubab (Kebob) Curries — Quoorma Curry ------ 210 — 223

Chapter XVIII. The Philosophy Of Sauces

Theory of Sauce as derived from its History — Definitions of various Historical Sauces and Sauce-like Preparations : Gence and Cameliue — Mustard, Court Bouillon, Salt-Water, Verjuice, Lemon Zest, Marinades — Braises, Poeles, Mirepoix, Blancs— Roux or Thickening for Sauces, Soups, Ragoiits : Brown Roux, or Dextrine Caramelas, for Espaguole — Thickenings and Liaisons — General Stock Sauces, also called Grand Sauces — Brown Sauce, or Espagnole : Espagnole Travaillee, or Finished Espagnole — White Sauce, or Veloute: Finished Veloute — Bficharael Sauce: Bechamel Sauce by Direct Process — Allemande Sauce — Butter Sauce, or Melted Butter : Sauce Beurree a l’Auglaise : White Sauce for Four Persons — Dutch Sauce, and Mode of Preparing it — Classification of Sauces — Definitions of Finished Brown Sauces derived from Espaguole — Finished White Sauces derived from Veloute — Sauces derived from Bechamel Sauce — Sauces of which the Basis is Sauce a 1’ Allemande — Sauces derived from Butter Sauce, or Melted Butter — Sauces analogous to Bechamel prepare by Direct Process — Some Special Sauces for Specia> Occasions and Dishes — Cold Sauces — Marinades — Essences ------ 223 — zod xv

Chapter XIX. Jellies, Savoury, Sweet, And Compound

PAGE

Varieties of Jellies — Gelatinized or Chaudfroid Sauces— Citronized Milk Jelly, or Jelly with Curdled Milk — Aspic, a Jelly with Essence of Meat — Grand Aspic — Preparation of Sugar Syrup and Fruit Juices for Jellies — Jellies flavoured with Wine— Blanc-Manger and its Transformations— ITse of Perfumes and Ethers in Jellies — Fruit Jams which in England are called Cheese - - - 259 — 273

Chapter XX. Dressed Cream And Compound Creams

Charlottes, Starch Jellies, Flummeries, Cold Puddings : JBavaroises or Bavarian Cheese — Custard Jellies — Cold Charlottes or Pudding-like Preparations in which any of the Five Varieties of Cream may be employed — Starch Jellies or Flummeries — Cold Puddings — Dishes with a Constituent Basis of White of Egg Froth : Snow Milk — Snow-Nockeln - - - - 273 — 280

Chapter XXI. Culinary Fats And The Process Of Frying (phrygology)

Culinary Fats, Butter and other Animal Fats, Vegetable Fats : Composition of Animal Fat Tissue — Theory of the Process of Baking in Fat, called Fryiug — Purification of Suet and other Alimentary Fats — Classification of Fried Objects : Fritters, Kromeskys, Rissoles, Rissolettes, Croutons — Theory of Batter — Croquettes - 280 — 293

CULINARY ESSENCES AND SAVOURY PREPARATIONS OF BUTTER.

Proust’s Essence of Meat — Essences of Game (Fumets), Fowl, Ham, Fish — Butters — Soj, Soya — The Iatropha Plant and its Products : Cassareep - 311 — 315

Chapter XXVI. Vegetables For Entremets Or Second Course Side-dishes

History and Use of Celery — Scorzouera, or Salsifis — Spinach, or Spinage : Extract of Spinage — Endive, or Cichory — Tomatoes : Other Solanese — Artichokes — Asparagus — Green Peas — Green French and Broad Beans and Scarlet Runners : Haricot Beans — Turnips — Carrots — Gourd, or Vegetable Marrow — Cucumbers — -Pumpkins — Tupinambur, or Girasol Artichoke — Batatas, or Yams — Potatoes — Cabbage Tribe : Seakale, Savoy, Common Green, Red, White, Brussels Sprouts, Cauliflower ----- 316 — 345

Chapter XXVII. Vegetables Characterized By Sulphuretted Essential Oils

Onions, Shallots, Ciboules, Chives, Leek, Garlic, Rocambole — Oils of Cruciferse — Mustard — Cresses — Horseradish — Radishes ------ 346 — 350

Chapter XXVIII

SALADS AND THEIR MATERIALS ; WITH AN APPENDIX ON PARTICULAR VEGETABLES GROWN AND OBTAINABLE IN INDIA FOR USE THERE.

Salads — Potato Salad — Salads of Uncooked Vegetables — Cabbage Lettuce — Endive — Cresses — Salads of Cooked Vegetables— Spanish Salad of Bread and Vegetables (Gaspacho)

— Minced Meat — Lobster and Herring Salad — Garlic in Salad- ------ 351—361

CONTENTS OF CHAPTERS xvii

Chapter XXIX. Varieties Of Flour-paste Used In Culinary Operations

PAGE

Flour and Suet Paste for Meat Puddings — Scalded- Water Paste — Cold-Water or French Paste — Short Paste for Hot Pates —

Puff Paste or Flake Dough — Short Puff Paste — Short Paste for Pies — Nouilles Paste — Almond Paste for Ornaments — Applications — Tourte Cases for Entrees — Cases of Puff Paste for Plate Patties — Common Covered Tartlet or Dariole or Patty Cases — Patty Cases like Little Timbales — Croustades — Italian Crustiui— Alphabetical List of the Principal Pastries in Culinary Works — Bread : Constitution of Cereals — Diastase — Dextrine — Ferment — Gluten and Macaroni— Pumpernickel — Wheat-flour — Bran — Wholemeal Bread Proposition — Testing of Flour — Preparation of Ferment or Fruit — Stirring of Sponge — The Dough — Tests of Good Bread — Panification — Bread — Meat Bread - 361 — 382

Chapter XXX. Griddle-cake, Dumplings, Porridge, Macaroni, And

NOUILLES.

Griddle or Girdle Cakes and Chuppattees or Stone Cakes — Dumplings: Norfolk, Apple, Currant, Bavarian, Grits and Sponge — Braised Buns — Various Dumplings : Their use in various countries — Nockerln, or Vienna Dumplings, Italian Niocchi — Porridge : Hot and Cold, Plum Porridge,

De la Groute, Gruel — Macaroni and Nouilles - 382 — 389

Chapter XXXI. Souffles, Pancakes, And Puffs Or Croplets

General — Comparison of — Baking of — Series of — Pancakes, French Pannequetg, and Puff's or Croplets : Scriblita of Romans, Cryspes of Mediaeval English - - 389 — 394

Chapter XXXII. The Philosophy Of Cakes

Gateau des Rois — Brioche — Two Doughs — Kugelhopfe — Baba — Ratau Cake — Compiegne Cake— -Biscuits— Savoy Cake- Pan d’Ouro — Plum Cake — Scotch Bread— Brussels Biscuits— Rusks or Zwieback — Waffles : Three kinds of 395— 4U6

b xvm

Chapter XXXIII. Specialized Cakes And Confectioneries

VAGE

Nougat : White and Brown — Genoa (Jakes, or Genoises — Madeleines — Choux Patissiers — Profit Rolles, Mecca Loaves, etc. — Cakes of which Nouilles or Macaroni Preparations are Leading Ingredients — Meringues — Honey Cake, Leckerkucheu or Lebkuchen — Various Small Cakes (Biscuits so called)— Aniseed Cakes — Cakes resembling Puddings — Many-Flaked Cakes — Cakes with Prevalence of Almonds — Macroons — Brenten — Knack Cakes — Fanchonettes — Cheese Cakes — Mirlitons — Pithiviers Cakes— German Apricot Tart — Apple and Apricot Turnover — Darioles — Talmouses — Placouses — Pastry Custard, or Compound Pastry Cream for garnishing Tarts and Tartlets — Love Wells, Puits d' Amour- — Puff Paste : Special Forms of — Parisian Loaves — Cherry Tartlets — Marigolds — Fruit Tarts and Fruit Pies — Mince Pies — Glacing, Icing, or Encrusting of Cakes ------ 406 — 120

Chapter XXXIV. The Philosophy Of Puddings

Puddings in General — Breccia — Puddings at Peace Congress —

Boiled Puddings — List of Puddings and Peculiarities 420 — 425

Chapter XXXV. Preparations Of Fruit Resembling Raised Pies, Hot Charlottes, Flans

Croquembouche of Oranges and other Fruit — Apple Dumplings

— Hot Charlottes — Cold Charlottes — Flans - - 425 — 128

Chapter XXXVI. Preparations Of Beef

Division of the Ox — Ripening of Beef — Salting and Pickling — Drying — Principles of Roasting and Variations— The Fillet, or Undercut — Variations — Brisket and Ribs, etc. — Aitch-bone and Varieties of Spelling — The Round of Beef — Collared Beef — Rump of Beef — Beef a la Mode — Various Small Dishes of Beef — Ox-Head — Ox- Palates — Variations — The Philosophy of Beefsteak or Rumpsteak — Ox-Tongue — Tripe — Feet, or Cows’ Heel - - - 428 — 447 xix

Chapter XXXVII. Preparations Of Veal

PAGE

Division of the Calf — Loin of Veal — Calf’s Head : Various Preparations — En Tortile — Calf’s Brain — Ears — Tongue — Liver — Sweetbread — Kidneys — Tendrons — Grenade — Collops — Popiettes — Hatelets — Cushion — Shoulder of Veal — Loin — Cutlets — Feet - 448 — 457

Chapter Xxxviii. Preparations Of Mutton

Mutton — Sheep’s Head — Galimafre of Head and Pluck — Heart and Brain — Tongue— Trotters— Kidneys — Leg of Mutton — China Chilo — Various Modes of Preparation — Roast Saddle, Haunch, Loin, Shoulder, Neck — Cutlets — Confusion about them— Mutton Chops — Mutton Haricot — Collops — Kebobs — Dunelm — Scotch Plaggis - - - 457 — 466

Chapter XXXIX. Preparations Of Lamb

Early Lamb — House Lamb — Sham Lamb — The Joints: Roasted, Grilled, Stewed, as Galimafree — Various Preparations

466—468

Chapter XL. Preparations Of Pork, The Flesh Of The Encyclopaedic

ANIMAL.

Distribution of Pork — Cleanliness of Pig — Cuvier on Structure of Pig — Vauban’s ‘ Cochonnerie ’ — Boar’s Head — Neck, Loin, Sparerib, Chops, Leg, Mock Goose— Pickled Pork — Ham — Pig’s Feet — Black Pudding — Roast Sucking- Pig : Petty Toes— Wild Boar’s Head, Saddle, Loin- 468 — 473

Chapter XLI. Preparations Of Venison From Fallow Deer, Red Deer, And

ROE DEER.

Venison from Fallow Deer— Parts — Buck Haunch — Red Deer

analogous— Roe Deer specially fine— Preparations - 473 — 474

XX

Chapter XLII. Preparations Of Rabbit

PAGE

History of the Rabbit in Spain and South Europe generally — Roast Rabbit — Gibelotte (Old Style) — Bresolles and Cascalopes — ‘Lapins en Brezole ’ — Fillets and Croquettes — Dish of a Hundred Rabbits’ Tongues — Boiled Rabbit — Polpettes — Gratinated Rabbit — Timbale of Rabbit — La Chapelle on Dishes of Rabbit - 475 — 478

Chapter XLIII. Preparations Of Hare

Antiquity of Hare — Leveret and its Recognition — Roast Hare — Baron of Hare — Casing the Hare — Fillets, Puree, Cotelettes of Hare — Civet, Kebobs, Scollops of Hare — Jugged Hare — Braised Hai’e — Hare Cake— Other Preparations ------ 479 — 48i

CHAPTER XLIY.

PREPARATIONS OF FOWL.

Varieties of Common Fowl — Roast Chicken — Chicken and Fowl boiled — Ditto stewed with Rice — Fricassee of Fowl — Variations — Fried Chicken: Friteau — Rissoles

of — Capilotade of — Various Forms : Blanquette— Cold Roast Chicken — Preparations of Capon : Plain-boiled, Stewed with Rice, Stuffed with Truffles, Galantine — Breasts or Fillets of Fowl : Eu Bigarure, the Supreme, a l’Ecarlate, Supreme of Fillets of Fowl au Truffles — Fillets a l’Indienne with Espagnole — Legs of Chicken, etc. — Variations and Various Preparations from Cold Fowl : Aspic - - - - - 481 — 488

Chapter XLV. Preparations Of Turkey, Goose, Cygnet, Duck, And Pigeon

Turkey : Dindon and Dinde, History of — Dressing of— Stuffiug — Dinde au Truffles: is it a Roast? — Roast Turkey — Braised — Larded and Braised — Boned and Stuffed Turkey — Various Preparations. Goose : History — Roast Goose — Stuffing of — Apple Sauce, Sharp Sauce, etc. — Pomeranian xxi

PAGE

Goose Breast — Green Goose — Cygnet or Young Swan — Goose Liver — Wild Geese. Duck : Roast, Stewed, etc. —

Wild Duck — Canvas-back Duck. Pigeons : Varieties — Roast — Stewed — Pigeon Pie— Various Preparations 488 — 498

CHAPTER XL VI.

PREPARATIONS OF PHEASANT, PARTRIDGE, WIDGEON, TEAL, ORTOLANS, WHEATEARS, RUFFS AND REEVES, QUAILS, LARKS, BLACK GAME AND GROUSE.

Pheasant : History — Appreciation — Praise of by Authors — Stuffing of — Faisan Lucullus — Roast Pheasant — Braised — In Game Pies — Various Preparations. Partridge : Vai’ieties — Preparations. Woodcock (Becasse) : History — Roast Woodcock — Salmis of — Scotch Woodcock — W i dgeon — 0 rtolan s — W h eatears — Lark s — Alou ette and Mauviette — Modes of Cooking — Ruffs and Reeves. Quails (Fi’euch Cailles) : Migration — Rotis en Papillote — Au

Gratin — With Truffles — Quenelles — Fillets, Scollops, Bouchees, Tourtes, etc. Grouse : Red and White, and Black — Male Black = Blackcock — Female = Gray Hen — Red Grouse = Moorcock —Preparations. Becca-Fica : Anecdotal — The Seven Soups of Quail - - - 498 — 511

Chapter XLVII. Preparations Of Salt-water Or Sea Fish

General Observations — History — The Boiling of Fish — Various Modes of Boiling — The Baking of Fish — The Broiling of Fish — Frying and Stewing — Collaring of Fish — Elements of Savour — Court Bouillon — Garum of the Romans — Turbot — Various Preparations and Sauces for — Ivegeree of — Brill — Sole, or Black Sole — Lemon Sole — Boiling and Frying — Other Preparations — Plaice-Flounder— Halibut — Ray — Dab — Sturgeon : Various Preparations— Caviar : Constituents — Salmoii — Varieties by Age — Locality — Calvered or Crimped— Various Preparations — Smelt : Anecdotal — Preparations — Sprats, broiled — Whitebait — Mackerel — Gooseberry Sauce and its French Name — Various Forms of Mackerel — Herrings : Preparations— The Sardine — Auchovies: Red and White, and Preparations— The Tunny — Chartists’ Veal — Preparation — Codfish : History — How to Buy — Varieties of Preserved Cod — Fable — Preparations of Cod — Haddock — Gurnet —

Red Mullet — Gray Mullet — John Dory — Whiting — Rare and Little Used Varieties of Fish - - - 511 — 549 xxii

Chapter XLVIII. Preparations Of Sweet-water Fish

PAGE

Trout — Boiled in Wine and spoiled by Bad Recipes — Chai’ — Lampreys — Lampvillons (French, Sept-CEil ; German, Nine-Eye) — Eel: Varieties and Preparation of — Carp: Preparation of — Tench — Renke, Bavarian — Pike and Jack — Perch — Perch-Pike (German, Zander) — Gudgeon — Roach 549—557

Chapter XLIX. Preparations Of Crustaceans And Molluscs, Amphibians

AND REPTILES.

Lobster — Sea Crawfish — Prawns and Shrimps — Crayfish or Crawfish — Crab — Oysters — Mussels — Clams — Cockles and Whelks — Hammussel — Octopus or Sepia — Frogs — Iguana Turtle ...... 558—562

Chapter L

MEAT PUDDINGS, PIES, PATES-CHAUDS, RAISED PIES, VOL- AU-VENTS, TIMBALES, CASSEROLES.

Boiled Suet Puddings — Pie in General — Raised Pie — Piquancy of Meat Pies — Addition of Cassareep — Mode of making Pie, and arranging Ingredients — Fish Pies— Pates or Raised Pies, Pies in Cases, Pasties — Ragofits as Contents — Yorkshire or Christmas Pie — Raised Cold Pasties— Devonshire Squab Pie— Petits Pates — Bouchees — Patties — Tourte — Timbales — Casseroles, Borders, etc. — Rice and Potato Paste Borders — Garnishes ----- 562 — 576

Chapter LI

CHARTREUSES, OR PUDDINGS OF GREEN VEGETABLES AND ROOTS, ORNAMENTAL CROUSTADES, TURBANS, AND MAZARINES.

Chartreuse and Grande Chartreuse — < Chartreuse A. la Parisienne, or Entree de Farce — Compound Chartreuses— Ornamental Croustades — Crustadini — Turbans and Mazarines - 576 — 580

CONTENTS OF CHAPTERS xxiii

Chapter LII

ICES, FROZEN FRUIT JAMS AND JUICES, FROZEN CUSTARDS, CREAMS, PUDDINGS, AND ORNAMENTAL ENTREMETS.

PAGE

Use of Ice and Snow — Glace, Glaize — Confectioner’s Glace — Materials for Ices — Varieties of Ices — Ice Puddings — Spongadas, or Frozen Froths — Sherbets — Bavaroises — Cream Ices — Stratification of Ices — Neapolitan Ices 580 — 588

Chapter LIII. Preparations Of Eggs

Ingredients and Nutritive Value of Eggs— Consumption of — Boiling of Eggs — Poached Eggs — Fried Eggs— Omelette — Varieties of — As Confitures, etc.— Scrambled and Hard Boiled Eggs — Eggs for Days of Maigre - - 588 — 597

Chapter LIV. Preparations Of Milk And Cheese

Devonshire Clotted Cream — Yourt, Yaourt, Giayourti — Curds and Whey — Gallina Curds and Whey — Sour Milk, Bonny Clobber, Schlipper-Milch — Kumys — Peptonized (Pancreatinized) Milk — Junkets and Sillabubs— Varieties of Cheese — Elements of Savour — Welsh Rabbit or Cheese Toast, Ramakin Toast — Ramequins — Fondue - - 597 — 608

Chapter LV. Savoury And Sweet Toasts, Or Roties, And Croutons

Fried Bread, Croutons, Crustinos — List of - - 608 — 610

Chapter LVI. Various Useful Culinary Preparations

Sandwiches — Varieties of - - - - - 610

Chapter LVII

BEVERAGES : WATER, WINE, CIDER, BEER, SPIRITS, CUPS, SHERBETS, TEA, COFFEE, CHOCOLATE AND TISANES.

Water, Soft and Hard — Distilled, Softened — Mineral Waters — Wines : Varieties — Preparations of — Cider or Apple Wine — Beer — Preparations of Beer — Spirits : Varieties and

XXIV

Preparations — Cherry Brandy — Punch — W hisky Pu nch, or Toddy — Crambambuli — Ginger- Beer— Pulque— Palm Wine — Liqueurs : Varieties — Sherbets — Oxymels —