A visit to monasteries in the Levant /

Front matter

WASHINGTON, D. C. 20036 vmiiimiiiiiimimiiiHimiiiiiimmiiiiiiiiiinmiiiimiiiiiiHiiii''

GIFT OF STEPHEN D. BECHTEL

From a Drawing made on the 8po» by Viscount Eastnor.

Preface

In presenting to the public another book of travels in the East,' when it is already overwhelmed with little volumes about the palm-trees and camels, and reflections on the Pyramids, I am aware that I am committing an act which requires some better excuse for so unwarrantable an intrusion on the patience of the reader than any that I am able to offer.

The origin of these pages is as follows :—I was staying by myself in an old country-house belonging to my family, but not often inhabited by them, and, having nothing to do in the evening, I looked about for some occupation to amuse the passing hours. In the room where I was sitting there was a large book-case full of ancient manuscripts, many of which had been collected by myself, in various odt-of-the-way places, in different parts of the world. Taking some of these ponderous volumes from their shelves, I turned over their wide vellum leaves, and admired the antiquity of one, and the gold and azure which gleamed upon the pages of another. The sight of these books brought before my mind many scenes and recollections of the countries from which they came, and I said to myself, I know what I will do; I will write down some account of the most curious of these manuscripts, and the places in which they were found, as well as some of the

IT

PREFACE.

adventures which 1 encountered in the pursuit of my venerable game.

I sat down accordingly, and in a short time accumulated a heap of papers connected more or less with the history of the ancient manuscripts ; at the desire of some of my friends I selected the following pages, and it is with great diffidence that I present them to the public. If they have any merits whatever, these must consist in their containing descriptions of localities but seldom visited in modern times; or if they refer to places better known to the general reader, I hope that the peculiar circumstances which occurred during my stay there, or on my journeys through the neighboring countries, may be found sufficiently interesting to afford some excuse for my presumption in sending them to the press.

I have no further apology to offer. These slight sketches were written for my own diversion when I had nothing better to do, and if they afford' any pleasure to the reader under the same circumstances, they will answer as much purpose as was intended in their composition.

Contents

INTRODUCTORY CHAPTER .... Page xv EGYPT IN 1833.

Chapter I

Nayarino—The Wrecks of the Turkish and Egyptian Fleets— Alexandria—An Arab Pilot—Intense Heat—Scene from the Hotel Windows—The Water-Carriers—A Procession—A Bridal Party—Violent mode of clearing the Road—Submissive Beha¬ viour of the People—Astonishing Number of Donkeys—Bedouin Arabs; their wild and savage appearance—Early Hours—Visit to the Pasha’s Prime Minister, Boghos Bey ; hospitable reception —Kawasses and Chaoushes ; their functions and powers—The Yassakjis—The Minister’s Audience Chamber—Walmas; anec¬ dote of his saving the life of Boghos_Bey . . Page 1

Chapter II

Rapacity of the Dragomans—The Mahmoudieh Canal—The Nile at Atfeh—The muddy Waters of the Nile—Richness of the Soil —Accident to the Boatmen—Night Sailing—A Collision—A Vessel run down—Escape of the Crew—Solemn Investigation- Final Judgment—Curious Mode of Fishing—Tameness of the Birds—Jewish Malefactors—Moving Pillar of Sand—Arrival at Cairo—Hospitable Reception by the Consul-General . 13

Chapter III

National Topics of Conversation—The Rising of the Nile ; evil effects of its rising too high ; still worse consequences of a deficiency of its waters—The Nilometer—Universal Alarm in August, 1833—The Nile atlength rises to the desired Height— Ceremony of cutting the Embankment—The Canal of the Khalidj—Immense Assemblage of People—The State Tent— Arrival of Habeeb Effendi—Splendid Dresses of the Officers— Exertions of the Arab Workmen—Their Scramble for Paras— Admission of the Water—Its sudden Irruption—Excitement of the Ladies—Picturesque Effect of large Assemblies in the East.24

Chapter IV

Early Hours in the Levant—Compulsory Use of Lanterns in Cairo —Separation of the different Quarters of the City—Custom ot yi

CONTENTS.

sleeping in the open air—The Mahomedan Times of Prayer- Impressive Effect of the Morning Call to Prayer from the Mina¬ rets—The last Prayer-time, A1 Assr—Bedouin Mode of ascertain¬ ing this Hour—Ancient Form of the Mosques—The Mosque ot Sultan Hassan—Egyptian Mode of “raising the Supplies”— Sultan Hassan’s Mosque the scene of frequent Conflicts—The Slaughter of the Mameluke Beys in the place of Roumayli— Escape of one Mameluke, and his subsequent Friendship with Mo¬ hammed Ali—The Talisman of Cairo—Joseph’s Well and Hall— Mohammed Ali’s Mosque—his Residence in the Citadel—The Harem—Degraded State of the Women of the East Page 31

Chapter V

Interview with Mohammed Ali Pasha—Mode of lighting a Room in Egypt—Personal Appearance of the Pasha—His Diamond-mounted Pipe—The lost Handkerchief—An unceremonious At¬ tendant—View of Cairo from the Citadel—Site of Memphis; its immense extent—The Tombs of the Caliphs—The Pasha’s Mausoleum—Costume of Egyptian Ladies—The Cobcob, or Wooden Clog—-Mode of dressing the Hair—The Veil—Mistaken Idea that the Egyptian Ladies are Prisoners in the Harem ; their power of doing as they like—The Veil acomplete Disguise— Laws of the Harem—A Levantine Beauty—Eastern Manners— The Abyssinian Slaves—Arab Girls—Ugliness of the Arab Women when old—Venerable Appearance of the old Men—An Arab Sheick ..... 41

Chapter VI

Mohammed Bey, Defterdar—His Expedition to Seuaar—His Bar¬ barity and Rapacity—His Defiance of the Pasha—Stories of his Cruelty and Tyranny—The Horse-Shoe—The Fight of the Ma¬ melukes—His cruel Treachery—His Mode of administering Justice—The stolen Milk—The Widow’s Cow—Sale and Dis¬ tribution of the Thief—The Turkish Character—Pleasures of a Journey on the Nile—The Copts—Their Patriarchs—The Pa¬ triarch of Abyssinia—Basileos Bey—His Boat—An American’s choice of a Sleeping-place.56

NATRON LAKES.

Chapter VII

Visit to the Coptic Monasteries near the Natron Lakes—The De¬ sert ofNitria—Early Christian Anchorites—St. Macarius of Alex¬ andria—His Abstinence and Penance—Order of Monks founded by him—Great increase of the Number of ascetic Monks in the Fourth Century—Their subsequent decrease, and the present ruined state of t he Monasteries—Legends of the Desert—Capture

CONTENTS.

VU of a Lizard—Its alarmmg escape—The Convent of Baramous— Night attacks—Invasion of Sanctuary—Ancient Glass Lamps—■ Monastery of Souriani—Its Library and Coptic MSS.—The Blind Abbot and his Oil-cellar—The persuasive powers of Rosoglio— Discovery of Syriac MSS.—The Abbot’s supposed treasure Page GS

Chapter VIII

View from the Convent Wall—Appearance of the Desert—Its grandeur and freedom—Its contrast to the Convent Garden— Beauty and luxuriance of Eastern Vegetation—Picturesque Group of the Monks and their Visitors—The Abyssinian Monks—Their appearance—their austere mode of Life—The Abyssinian Col¬ lege—Description of the Library—The mode of writing in Abys¬ sinia—Immense Labour required to write an Abyssinian book— Paintings and Illuminations—Disappointment of the Abbot at finding the supposed Treasure-box only an old Book—Purchase of the MSS. and Books—The most precious left behind—Since acquired for the British Museum . . ... 79

THE CONVENT OF THE PULLEY.

Chapter IX

The Convent of the Pulley—Its inaccessible position—Difficult landing on the bank of the Nile—Approach to the Convent through the Rocks—Description of the Convent and its In¬ habitants—Plan of the Church—Books and MSS.—Ancient excavations—Stone Quarries and ancient Tombs—Alarm of the Copts—Their ideas of a Sketch-book ... .92

RUINED MONASTERY AT THEBES.

Chapter X

Ruined Monastery in the Necropolis of Thebes—“ Mr. Hay’s Tomb”—The Coptic Carpenter—His acquirements and troubles —He agrees to show the MSS. belonging to the ruined Monas¬ tery, which are under his charge—Night visit to the Tomb in which they are concealed—Perils of the way—Description of the Tomb—Probably in former times a Christian Church— Examination of the Coptic MSS.—Alarming interruption— Hurried flight from the Evil Spirits—Fortunate escape— Appearance of the Evil Spirit—Observations on Ghost Stories —The Legend of the Old Woman of Berkeley considered 103 viii

CONTENTS.

THE WHITE MONASTERY.

Chapter XI

The White Monastery—Abou Shenood—Devastations of the Ma¬ melukes—Description of the Monastery—Different styles of its exterior and interior Architecture—Its ruinous condition—De¬ scription of the Church—The Baptistery—Ancient rites of Baptism—The Library—Modern Architecture—The Church of San Francesco at Rimini—The Red Monastery—Alarming ren¬ contre with an armed party—Feuds between the native Tribes— Faction fights—Eastern Story Tellers—Legends of the Desert— Abraham and Sarah—Legendary Life of Moses—Arabian Story¬ tellers—Attention of their Audience . . . Page 113

THE ISLAND OF P H I L CE, &c.

Chapter XII

The Island of Philoe—The Cataract of Assouan—The Burial Place of Osiris—The Great Temple of Philce—The Bed of Pharaoh— Shooting in Egypt—Turtle Doves—Story of the Prince Anas el Ajoud—Egyptian Songs—Vow of the Turtle Dove—Curious fact in Natural History—The Crocodile and its Guardian Bird— Arab notions regarding Animals—Legend of King Solomon and the Hoopoes—Natives of the country round the Cataracts of the Nile—Their appearance and Costume—The beautiful MoUna— Solitary Visit to the Island of Philoe—Quarrel between two native Boys—Singular instance of retributive Justice 123

JERUSALEM AND THE MONASTERY OF ST. SABBA.

Chapter XIII

Journey to Jerusalem—First View of the Holy City—The Valley of Gihon—Appearance of the City—The Latin Convent of St. Salvador—Inhospitable Reception by the Monks—Visit to the

Church of the Holy Sepulchre—Description of the Interior_

The Chapel of the Sepulchre—The Chapel of the Cross on

Mount Calvary—The Tomb and Sword of Godfrey de Bouillon__

Arguments in favour of the Authenticity of the Holy Sepulchre —The Invention of the Cross by the Empress Helena—Legend of the Cross ...

CONTENTS.

ix

Chapter XIV

The Via Dolorosa—The Houses of Dives and of Lazarus—The Prison of St. Peter—The Site of the Temple of Solomon—The Mosque of Omar—The Hadjr el Sakhara—The Greek Monastery —Its Library—Valuable Manuscripts—Splendid MS. of the Bgok of Job—Arabic spoken at Jerusalem—Mussulman Theory re¬ garding the Crucifixion—State of the Jews—Richness of their Dress in their own Houses—Beauty of their Women—Their literal Interpretation of Scripture—The Service in the Synagogue —Description of the House of a Rabbi—The Samaritans— Their Roll of the Pentateuch—Arrival of Ibrahim Pasha at Jerusalem.Page 15S

Chapter XV

Expedition to the Monastery of St. Sabba—Reports of Arab Rob¬ bers—The Valley of Jehoshaphat—The Bridge of A1 Sirat— Rugged Scenery—An Arab Ambuscade—A successful Parley— The Monastery of St. Sabba—History of the Saint—The Greek Hermits—The Church—The Iconostasis—The Library—Nume¬ rous MSS.—The Dead Sea—The Scene of the Temptation—• Discovery—The Apple of the Dead Sea—The Statements of Strabo and Pliny confirmed . . . 168

Chapter XVI

Church of the Holy Sepulchre—Processions of the Copts—The Syrian Maronites and the Greeks—Riotous Behaviour of the Pil¬ grims—Their immense numbers—The Chant of the Latin Monks —Ibrahim Pasha—The Exhibition of the Sacred Fire—Excite¬ ment of the Pilgrims—The Patriarch obtains the Sacred Fire from the Holy Sepulchre—Contest for the Holy Light—Immense sum paid for the privilege of receiving it first—Fatal Effects of the Heat and smoke—Departure of Ibrahim Pasha—Horrible Catastrophe—Dreadful Loss of Life among the Pilgrims in their endeavours to leave the Church—Battle with the Soldiers—Our Narrow Escape—Shocking Scene in the Court of the Church— Humane Conduct ef Ibrahim Pasha—Superstition of the Pilgrims regarding Shrouds—Scallop Shells and Palm Branches—The Dead Muleteer—Moonlight View of the Dead Bodies—The Curse on Jerusalem—Departure from the Holy City . 182

THE MONASTERIES OF METEOR A.

Chapter XVII

Albania—Ignorance at Corfu concerning that Country—Its report¬ ed abundance of Game and Robbers—The Disturbed State of the Country—The Albanians—Richness of their Arms—Their free

CONTENTS.

use of them—Comparative Safety of Foreigners—Tragic Fate of a German Botanist—Arrival at Gominitza—Ride to Paramathia —A Night’s Bivouac—Reception at Paramathia—Albanian Ladies —Yanina—Albanian Mode of settling a Quarrel— Expected Attack from Robbers—A Body-Guard Mounted—Audience with the Vizir—His Views of Criminal Jurisprudence—Retinue of the Vizir—His Troops—Adoption of the European Exercises— Expedition to Berat—Calmness and Self-possession of the Turks —Active Preparations for Warfare—Scene at the Bazaar— Valiant Promises of the Soldiers .... Page 204

Chapter XVIII

Start for Meteora—Rencontre with a Wounded Traveller—Bar¬ barity of the Robbers—Albanian Innkeeper—Effect of the Turkish Language upon the Greeks—Mezzovo—Interview with the chief Person in the Village—Mount Pindus—Capture by Robbers—Salutary effects of Swaggering—Arrival under Escort at the Robbers’ Head-Quarters—Affairs take a favourable turn— An unexpected Friendship with the Robber Chief—The Khan of Malacash—Beauty of the Scenery—Activity of our Guards—■ Loss of Character—Arrival at Meteora . . . 224

Chapter XIX

Meteora—The extraordinary Character of its Scenery—Its Caves formerly the Resort of Ascetics—Barbarous Persecution of the Hermits—Their extraordinary Religious Observances—Singular Position of the Monasteries—The Monastery of Barlaam—The difficulty of reaching it—Ascent by a Windlass and Net, or by Ladders—Narrow Escape—Hospitable Reception by the Monks —The Agoumeuos, or Abbot—His strict Fast—Description of the Monastery—The Church—Symbolism in the Greek Church —Respect for Antiquity—The Library—Determination of the Abbot not to sell any of the MSS.—The Refectory—Its Deco¬ rations—Aerial Descent—The Monastery of Hagios Stephanos —Its Carved Iconostasis—Beautiful View from the Monastery —Monastery of Agia Triads—Summary Justice at Triada- Monastery of Agia Roserea—Its Lady Occupants—Admission refused . . . ... 243

Chapter XX

The great Monastery of Meteora—The Church—Ugliness of the Portraits of Greek Saints—Greek Mode of Washing the Hands— A Monastic Supper—Morning View from the Monastery—The Library—Beautiful MSS —Their Purchase—The Kitchen— Discussion among the Monks as to the Purchase Money for the

MSS.—The MSS. reclaimed—A last Look at their Beauties_

Proposed Assault of the Monastery by the Robber Escort 259

Chapter XXI

Return Journey—Narrow Escape—Consequences of Singing—Ar¬ rival at the Khan of Malacash—Agreeable Anecdote—Parting

CONTENTS.

XI from the Robbers at Mezzovo—A Pilau—Wet Ride to Paramathia—Accident to the Baggage Mule—Its wonderful Escape- Novel Costume—A Deputation—Return to Corfu Page 271

THE MONASTERIES OF MOUNT ATHOS

Chapter XXII

Constantinople—The Patriarch’s Palace—The Plague, Anecdotes, Superstitions—The Two Jews—Interview with the Patriarch— Ceremonies of Reception—The Patriarch’s Misconception as to the Archbishop of Canterbury—He addresses a Firman to the Monks of Mount Athos—Preparations for Departure—The Ugly Greek Interpreter—Mode of securing his Fidelity . 282

Chapter XXIII

Coom Calessi—Uncomfortable Quarters—A Turkish Boat and its Crew—Grandeur of the Scenery—Legend of Jason and the Golden Fleece—The Island of Imbros—Heavy Rain Storm—A Rough Sea—Lemnos—Bad Accommodation—The Old WOman’s Mattress and its Contents—Striking View of Mount Athos from the Sea—The Hermit of the Tower .... 295

Chapter XXIV

Monastery of St. Laura—Kind Reception by the Abbot—Astonish¬ ment of the Monks—History of the Monastery—Rules of the Order of St Basil—Description of the Buildings—Curious Pic¬ tures of the last judgment—Early Greek Paintings ; Richness of their Frames and Decorations—Ancient Church Plate—Beautiful Reliquary—The Refectory—The Abbot’s Savoury Dish—The Library—The MSS.—Ride to the Monastery of Caracalla— Magnificent Scenery.307

Chapter XXV

The Monastery of Caracalla—Its beautiful Situation—Hospitable Reception—Description of the Monastery—Legend of its Foun¬ dation—The Church—Fine Specimens of Ancient Jewellery— The Library—The Value attached to the Books by the Abbot— He agrees to sell some of the MSS.—Monastery of Philotheo— The Great Monastery of Iveron—History of its Foundation—Its Magnificent Library—Ignorance of the Monks—Superb MSS.— The Monks refuse to part with any of the MSS.—Beauty of the Scenery of Mount Athos.326

CHAPTER XXVI. The Monastery of Stavroniketa—The Library—Splendid MS. of

XU

CONTENTS.

St. Chrysostom—The Monastery of Pantocratoras—Ruinous Con¬ dition of the Library—Complete Destruction of the Books—Dis¬ appointment—Oration to the Monks—The Great Monastery of Vatopede—Its History—Ancient Pictures in the Church—Le¬ gend of the Girdle of the Blessed Virgin—The Library—Wealth and Luxury of the Monks—The Monastery of Sphigmenou— Beautiful Jewelled Cross—The Monastery of Kiliantari—Magni ficent MS. in Gold Letters on White Vellum—The Monasteries' of Zographou, Castamoneta, Docheirou, and Xenophou—-The Exiled Bishops—The Library—Very fine MSS.—Proposals for their Purchase—Lengthened Negotiations—Their successful Issue . ..Page 339

Chapter XXVII

The Monastery of Russico—Its Courteous Abbot—The Monastery of Xeropotamo—Its History—High Character of its Abbot— Excursion to the Monasteries of St. Nicholas and St. Dionisius— Interesting Relics—Magnificent Shrine—The Library—The Monastery of St. Paul—Respect shown by the Monks—Beautiful MS.—Extraordinary Liberality and Kindness of the Abbot and Monks—A valuable Acquisition at little Cost—The Monastery of Simopetra—Purchase of MS—The Monk of Xeropotamo— His Ideas about Women—Excursion to Cariez—The Monastery of Coutloumoussi—The Russian Book-Stealer—History of the Monastery—Its reputed Destruction by the Pope of Rome—The Aga of Cairez—Interview in a Kiosk—The She Cat of Mount Athos.. 358

Chapter XXVIII

Caracalle—The Agoumenos—Curious Cross—The Nuts of Cara calla—Singular Mode of preparing a Dinner Table—Departure from Mount Athos—Packing of the MSS.—Difficulties of the Way—Voyage to the Dardanelles—Apprehended Attack from Pirates—Return to Constantinople . . . 378

LIST OF ILLUSTRATIONS

The costumes are from drawings made at Constantinople by a Maltese artist. They are all portraits, and represent the costumes worn at the present day is different parts of the Turkish Empire. The others are from drawings and sketches by the Author, except one from a beautiful drawing by Lord Eastnor, for which the Author begs to express his thanks and obligations.

The Monastery of Meteora, from the Monas¬ tery of Baklaam. From a Drawing by

Viscount Eastnor.

Interior of the Court of a Greek Monastery Koord, or Native of Koordistan Negress waiting to be Sold Bedouin Arab ....

Egyptian in the Nizam Dress Interior of an Abyssinian Library Mendicant Dervish .

Plan of .the Church of the Holy Sepulchre j- Frontispiece

Title Vignette To face page txii. „ 5

„ 43

„ 98

„ 121

Jerusalem. „ 148

The Monastery of St. Barlaam ... „ 204

Tartar, or Government Messenger • . „ 206

Turkish common Soldier. „ 218

The N.W. View of the Promontory of Mount

Athos. » 282

Greek Sailor. „ 298

The Monastery of Simotetra . . . . „ 368

Circassian Lady. „ 371

Turkish Lady in she Yashmak or Veil . „ 378

INTRODUCTORY CHAPTER.

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A more enlarged account of the Monasteries of the Levant would, I think, be interesting for many reasons if the task was undertaken by some one much more com¬ petent than myself to do justice to so curious a subject. In these monasteries resided the early fathers of the Church, and within the precincts of their time-hallowed walls were composed those writings which have since been looked up to as the rules of Christian life : from thence also were promulgated the doctrines of the Heresiarchs, which, in the early ages of the Church, were the causes of so much dissension and confusion, rancour and persecu¬ tion, in the disastrous days of the decline and fall of the Roman empire.

The monasteries of the East are besides particularly interesting to the lovers of the picturesque, from the beautiful situations in which they are almost invariably placed. The monastery of Megaspelion, on the coast of the Gulf of Corinth, is built in the mouth of an enormous cave. The monasteries of Meteora, and some of those on Mount Athos, are remarkable for their positions on the tops of inaccessible rocks; many of the convents in Syria, the islands of Cyprus, Candia, the Archipelago, and the Prince’s Islands in the Sea of Marmora, are unrivalled for the beauty of the positions in which they stand; many others in Bulgaria, Asia Minor, Sinope, and other places on the shores of the Black Sea, are most curious monu¬ ments of ancient and romantic times. There is one on the road to Persia, about one day’s journey inland from Trebizond, which is built half way up the side of a per.

XVI

INTRODUCTORY CHAPTER.

pendicular precipice ; it is ensconced in several fissures of the rock, and various little gardens adjoining the buildings display the industry of the monks ; these are laid out on shelves or terraces wherever the nature of the spot affords a ledge of sufficient width to support the soil; the different parts of the monastery are approached by stairs and flights of steps cut in the face of the precipice, leading from one cranny to another ; the whole has the appearance of a bas-relief stuck against a wall; this mo¬ nastery partakes of the nature of a large swallow’s nest. But it is for their architecture that the monasteries of the Levant are more particularly deserving of study; for, after the remains of the private houses of the Romans at Pompeii, they are the most ancient specimens extant of domestic architecture. The refectories, kitchens, and the cells of the monks exceed in point of antiquity anything of the kind in Europe. The monastery of St. Katherine at Mount Sinai has hardly been altered since the sixth century, and still contains ornaments presented to it by the Emperor Justinian. The White Monastery and the monastery at Old Cairo, both in Egypt, are still more ancient. The monastery of Kuzzul Vank, near the sources of the Euphrates, is, I believe, as old as the fifth century. The greater number in all the countries where the Greek faith prevails, were built before the year 1000. Most* monasteries possess crosses, candlesticks, and reliquaries, many of splendid workmanship, and of the era of the foundation of the buildings which contain them, while their mosaics and fresco paintings display the state of the arts from the most early periods.

It has struck me as remarkable that the architecture of the churches in these most ancient monasteries is hardly ever fine ; they are usually small, being calculated only for the monks, and not for the reception of any other congregation. The Greek churches, even those which are

INTRODUCTORY CHAPTER.

xvii not monastic, are far inferior both in size and interest to the Latin basilicas of Rome. With the single exception of the church (now mosque) of St. Sophia, there is no Byzantine church of any magnitude. The student of ecclesiastical antiquities need not extend his architectural researches beyond the shores of Italy ; there is nothing in the East so curious as the church of St. Clemente at Rome, which contains all the original fittings of the choir. The churches of St. Ambrogio at Milan, of Sta. Maria Trastevere at Rome, the first church dedicated to the Blessed Virgin ; the church of St. Agnese near Rome, the first in which galleries were built over the side aisles for the accommodation of women, who, neither in the Eastern nor Western churches, ever mixed with the men for many centuries ; all these and several others in Italy afford more instruction than those of the East—they are larger, more magnificent, and in every respect superior to the ecclesi¬ astical buildings of the Levant. But the poverty of the Eastern church, and its early subjection to Mahometan rulers, while it has kept down the size and splendour of the churches, has at the same time been the means of preserving the monastic establishments in all the rude originality of their ancient forms. In ordinary situations these buildings are of the same character : they resemble small villages, built mostly without much regard to any symmetrical plan, around a church which is constructed in the form of a Greek cross ; the roof is covered either with one or five domes; all these buildings are surrounded by a high, strong wall, built as a fortification to protect the brotherhood within, not without reason, even in the present day. I have been quietly dining in a monastery, when shouts have been heard, and shots have been fired against the stout bulwarks of the outer walls, which, thanks to their protection, had but little effect in delaying the transit of the morsel between my fingers into the ready gulf pro-

XVlii INTRODUCTORY CHAPTER.

vided by nature for its reception. The monks of the Greek Church have diminished in number and wealth of late years, their monasteries are no longer the schools of learning which they used to be ; few can read the Hellenic or ancient Greek; and the following anecdote will suffice to show the estimation in which a conventual library has not unusually been held. A Russian, or I do not know whether he was not a French traveller, in the pursuit, as I was, of ancient literary treasures, found himself in a great monastery in Bulgaria to the north of the town of Cavalla; he had heard that the books preserved in this remote building were remarkable for their antiquity, and for-the subjects on which they treated. His dismay and disappointment may be imagined when he was assured by the agoumenos or superior of the monastery, that it con. tained no library whatever, that they had nothing but the liturgies and church books, and no palaia pragmata or an¬ tiquities at all. The poor man had bumped upon a pack-saddle over villainous roads for many days for no other object, and the library of which he was in search had vanished as the visions of a dream. The agoumenos begged his guest to enter with the monks into the choir, where the almost continual church service was going on, and there he saw the double row of long-bearded holy fathers, shouting away at the chorus of xvpis sXsitov, xpitfre sXsiffov (pronounced Kyre eleizon, Christe eleizon), which occurs almost every minute, in the ritual of the Greek Church. Each of the monks was standing to save his bare legs from the damp of the marble floor upon a great folio volume, which had been removed from the conventual library, and applied to purposes of practical utility in the way which I have described. The traveller on examining these ponderous tomes found them to be of the greatest value; one was in uncial letters, and others were full of illuminations of the earliest date ; all these he was allowed

INTRODUCTORY CHAPTER. XIX

lo carry away in exchange for some footstools or hassocks, which he presented in their stead to the old monks ; they were comfortably covered with ketche or felt, and were in many respects more convenient to the inhabitants of the monastery than the manuscripts had been, for many of their antique bindings were ornamented with bosses and nail heads, which inconvenienced the toes of the unso¬ phisticated congregation who stood upon them without shoes for so many hours in the day. I must add that the lower halves of the manuscripts were imperfect, from the damp of the floor of the church having corroded and eat away their vellum leaves, and also that, as the story is not my own, I cannot vouch for the truth of it, though, whether it is true or not, it elucidates the present state of the literary attainments of the Oriental monks. Ignorance and superstition walk hand in hand, and the monks of the Eastern churches seem to retain in these days all the love for the marvellous which distinguished their Western brethren in the middle ages. Miraculous pictures abound, as well as holy springs and wells. Relics still perform wonderful cures. I will only as an illustration to this statement mention one of the standing objects of venera¬ tion which may be witnessed any day in the vicinity of the castle of the Seven Towers, outside of the walls of Constantinople : there a rich monastery stands in a lovely grove of trees, under whose shade numerous parties of merry Greeks often pass the day, dividing their time be¬ tween drinking, dancing, and devotion.

The unfortunate Emperor Constantine Paleologus rode out of the city alone to reconnoitre the outposts of the Turkish army, which was encamped in the immediate vicinity. In passing through a wood he found an old man seated by the side of a spring cooking some fish on a grid¬ iron for his dinner ; the emperor dismounted from his white horse and entered into conversation with the other; the old xx

INTRODUCTORY CHAPTER.

man looked up at the stranger in silence, when the empe. ror inquired whether he had heard anything of the move¬ ments of the Turkish forces—“ Yes,” said he, “ they have this moment entered the city of Constantinople.” “ I would believe what you say,” replied the emperor, “ if the fish which you are broiling would jump off the gridiron into the spring.” This, to his amazement, the fish imme¬ diately did, and, on his turning round, the figure of the old man had disappeared. The emperor mounted his horse and rode towards the gate of Silivria, where he was encountered by a band of the enemy and slain, after a brave resistance, by the hand of an Arab or a Negro.

The broiled fishes still swim about in the water of the spring, the sides of which have been lined with white marble, in which are certain recesses where they can retire when they do not wish to receive company. The only way of turning the attention of these holy fish to the respectful presence of their adorers is accomplished by throwing something glittering into the water, such as a handful of gold or silver coin ; gold is the best, copper produces no effect; he that sees one fish is lucky, he that sees two or three goes home a happy man ; but the cus¬ tom of throwing coins into the spring has become, from its constant practice, very troublesome to the good monks, who kindly depute one of their community to rake out the money six or seven times a day with a scraper at the end of a lflng pole. The emperor of Russia has sent presents to the shrine of Baloukli, so called from the Turkish word Balouk, a fish. Some wicked heretics have said that these fishes are common perch ; either they or the monks must be mistaken, but of whatever kind they are, they are looked upon with reverence by the Greeks, and have been continually held in the highest honour from the time of the siege of Constantinople to the present day.

I have hitherto noticed those monasteries only which are

INTRODUCTORY CHAPTER. XXI

under the spiritual jurisdiction of the Patriarch of Constan¬ tinople, but those of the Copts of Egypt and the Maronites of Syria resemble them in almost every particular. As it has never been the custom of the Oriental Christians to bury the dead within the precincts of the church, they none of them contain sepulchral monuments. The bodies of the Byzantine emperors were enclosed in sarcophagi of precious marbles, which were usually deposited in chapels erected for the purpose—a custom which has been imitated by the sultans of Turkey. Of all these magnificent sar¬ cophagi and chapels or mausoleums where the remains of the imperial families were deposited, only one remains intact; every one but this has been violated, destroyed, or carried away; the ashes of the Caesars have been scat¬ tered to the winds. This is now known by the name of the chapel of St. Nazario e Celso, at Ravenna: it was built by Galla Placidia, the daughter of Theodosius ; she died at Rome in 440, but her body was removed to Ra¬ venna and deposited in a sarcophagus in this chapel; in the same place are two other sarcophagi, one containing the remains of Constantius, the second husband of Galla Placidia, and the other holding the body of her son Valentinian III. These tombs have never been disturbed, and are the only ones which remain intact of the entire line of the Csesars, either of the Eastern or Western empires.