The Two Voyages of the 'Pandora' in 1875 and 1876

Preface

. This narrative of the two cruises of the ' Pandora ' was intended for private circulation only, but at the suggestion of a few friends I have requested Mr. Stanford to publish it. The volume contains merely a simple record, or log, from notes in my private journal kept on board, and claims no pretensions to literary merit. A. Y. CONTENTS. I THE FIRST VOYAGE OF THE 'PANDORA.1

Appendix

175 LIST OF ILLUSTRATIONS. The ' Pandora ' beset and nipped in Melville Bay, 24th July, 1876 Frontispiece Northumberland House, Beechy Island facing 46 Ice Barrier across Peel Straits „ 55 Beset in Franklin Channel ,, 60 Ladies of Greenland 76 The Cairn, Cape Isabella „ 133 Cape Isabella 146 Cruising in Smith Sound „ 151 Natives of Bardin Bay, Whale Sound „ 158 MAPS. North Polar Chart, with Tracks of the ' Pandora's ' Two Voyages, 1875-1876. Map of the Countries round the North Pole. I, THE FIRST VOYAGE OF THE 'PANDORA.' 1875.

Chapter I. The Voyage To Greenland

The objects of the first voyage of the ' Pandora ' in 1875 were to visit the western coast of Greenland, thence to proceed through Baffin's Sea, Lancaster Sound, and Barrow Strait, towards the magnetic pole, and, if practicable, to navigate through the North-West Passage to the Pacific Ocean in one season. As, in following this route, the ' Pandora ' would pass King William Island, it was proposed, if successful in reaching that locality, in the summer season, when the snow was off the land, to make a search for further records and for the journals of the ships ' Erebus ' and ' Terror.' As no possible advantage to this project could be gained by wintering, it was arranged that the great loss of time and additional expense attending a ten months' detention in the Arctic Seas should be avoided, if possible, unless such a position could be attained as would render it advisable.

In the event, however, of the latter contingency, the ' Pandora ' was fully equipped, and the crew were engaged for a period of two years' absence. The ' Pandora ' was built at Devonport, and was first com missioned by Commander W. F. Ruxton, R.N., on the 20th of March, 1863. He sailed in her for the west coast of B OFFICERS AND CREW 2 Africa in the following April, and was posted out of her in December, 1865. Commander E. Stubbs succeeded him, and this was the ' Pandora's ' only commission in the Navy, four years on the coast of Africa, returning in 1867. She was built for speed, under sail or steam, or both combined, and fitted with engines of 80-horse power. The ' Pandora ' was purchased from the Admiralty, and taken to the works of Messrs. Day and Summers, at Southampton, to be fortified and prepared with all the modern equipments of an Arctic exploring ship.

She was rigged as a barquentine, and carried eight boats, including a steam cutter and three whale-boats. When the repairs and alterations were completed the 'Pandora' was removed to the docks, and provisioned and stored for eighteen months. The officers and crew were selected, and she anchored in the Southampton Water in June to receive her gunpowder, and to make final preparations for her adventurous cruise. The ' Pandora ' carried the white ensign and burgee of the Royal Yacht Squadron, and her complement of officers and men was thirty-one all told, as follows : — 1. Allen W. Young,1 E.N.E. .. Captain. 2. F. Innes Lillingston,2 E.N. .. Lieutenant. 3. George Pirie,3 E.N Lieutenant. 4. L. B. Koolemans Beynen,4 E.N.N. Lieutenant. 1 Sir Allen Young entered the merchant service in 1846. He commanded the ' Marlborough,' East Indiaman, 1500 tons, twice round the world, 1853-54 ; and the ' Adelaide,' steam troop-ship, 3000 tons, during the Crimean war, 1855-56.

He was sailing-master of the 'Fox' (M'Clintock), 1857-59, and commenced his travelling work by laying out a depot between February 15 and March 3, the -thermometer averaging — 40 to — 48 ; mercury frozen all the time. On his return he started for Fury Beach to get some stores left by Parry, absent from March 18 to 28. He started again on April 7, tracing the south and west shores of Prince of Wales' Land. After thirty-eight days he sent back the men and tent, owing to provisions running short, and went on for forty days with one man and the dogs, sleeping each night in a hole in the snow. He attempted to cross the M'Clintock Channel, and went about forty miles from the land, the ice being frightfully heavy. He reached the ship on June 7, after an absence of seventy eight days. He went again to explore Peel Sound from June 10 to 28.

He then con nected Osborn's with Browne's farthest, and discovered 380 miles of new coast line. He OF THE 'PANDORA.' 3 5. A. C. Homer Surgeon and Naturalist. 6. Mr. De Wilde Artist. 7. J. A. MacGahan Correspondent. 8. Benjamin Ball First Engineer. 9. Archibald Porteous Second Engineer. 10. Harry Toms5 Gunner. 11. Eobert James Carpenter. 12. Henry Mitchell Boatswain. 13. John Mott Sailmaker. 14. William Edwards Ship's Steward. 15. Joseph Lawrence Ward-room Steward. 16. Thomas Florance 6 Captain of Hold. 17. Joseph Shelton Cook. 18. Eskimo Joe Interpreter. 19. Henry Andrews Quartermaster. 20. William Eanderson Quartermaster. 21. James Timpson Quartermaster. 22. Henry Mihill Quartermaster. 23. Charles Vine Captains Coxswain. 24. Charles Tizzard .. Boatswain's Mate. 25. Allan Gillies Harpooneer. 26.

Edward Grace Able Seaman. 27. William Davis Able Seaman. 28. James Pennington Able Seaman. 29. G. W. Thome Able Seaman. 30. Edwin Griffey Blacksmith and Stoker. 31. James Cole Stoker. became a Lieutenant of the Naval Reserve, February 24, 1862. F.R.G.S. and F.R.A.S. He commanded the ' Fox ' in the North Atlantic Telegraph Expedition in 1862, going to Faroe Isles, Iceland, and Greenland ; and the ' Quantung ' in the European Chinese Navy, 1862-64. He was Commissioner to the Maritime Congress at Naples in 1871. (See ' Arctic Navy List.') Sir Allen is author of an account of the voyage of the ' Fox,' in the first number of the ' Cornhill Magazine ' ; republished in 1875 by Mr. Griffin, of Portsea. 2 Lieutenant in the Royal Navy, on the retired list, September 7, 1871. 3 Navigating Sub-Lieutenant in the Royal Navy, on the active list, July 27, 1870.

He was promoted to the rank of Lieutenant on October 13, 1876, and is now serving on board H.M.S. ' Nassau,' surveying ship. 4 Lieutenant in the Royal Dutch Navy, and had served in the Sumatra Squadron, and on shore in the naval brigade at Achin. 6 Mr. Toms was a Quartermaster in the ' Fox,' with Sir Leopold M'Clintock, during her memorable voyage in 1857-59. 6 Thomas Florance served in the ' North Star,' under Captain Pullen, 1852-54, and also in the ' Fox,' with Sir Leopold M'Clintock, as stoker. B DEPARTURE FROM ENGLAND. The expenses of the expedition, and the purchase and equipment of the 'Pandora,' were undertaken by myself; and I was assisted by contributions from the late Lady Franklin, who never ceased to take the greatest interest in Arctic matters ; from Mr. James Gordon Bennett, who was desirous of sending a correspondent ; and from Lieutenant Lillingston, who accompanied me as second in command.

On the 25th of June, everything being reported ready for sea, we slipped from the buoy off the Southampton Pier, and proceeded round to Portsmouth. We had already received on board two bags of letters for the * Alert ' and ' Discovery,' besides parcels, which had been forwarded in the hope of our being able to deliver them, or deposit them at the entrance of Smith Sound. On entering Portsmouth harbour, a message was received from the Admiral to the effect that we might go alongside the dockyard, and we accordingly moored by the Queen's Steps at 9 p.m. I was much touched by the hearty sympathy which I received at Portsmouth. I had endeavoured, from the commencement, to keep our cruise quite unnoticed, and had carefully avoided all demonstra tions; but, as we passed out of Portsmouth harbour, the crews of all Her Majesty's ships gave us hearty cheers, to which we responded in the best manner we could with our little crew, and by dipping our colours.

We arrived at Cowes in the evening of the 26th of June, where I had to meet Mr. Harper, our agent, who came to examine the accounts with me, and to make final arrangements for the pay of the crew, and for the payment of allotments to their wives and families. Having taken farewell of my friends at Cowes, I embarked at midnight, intending to sail for Plymouth on the first of the ebb next morning. Accordingly, on the 27th we slipped from the buoy at 4 a.m. It was a lovely morning, with scarcely a breath of wind, as we passed out through the Needles, and CROSSING THE ATLANTIC. 5 proceeded with all fore-and-aft canvas. As we passed Port land, H.M.S. 'Warrior' signalled, "Wish you all success;" and, in answer, we signalled our thanks. Passing close round the Bill, we caught a fair wind from the southward, and made all sail, letting the steam run down.

I was pleased with the performance of the ship under canvas ; she made a good six knots with the screw down. Arriving at Plymouth at 9 a.m., I immediately sent on shore for ten tons of coal, and also asked Lieut. Lillingston to call upon Admiral Sir H. Keppel, and to express my regret that I was unable to come personally. By the time we had completed our coaling, Admiral Keppel and Earl Mount Edgecumbe most kindly came on board to greet us, and to say good-bye. At six o'clock we steamed out. When off the Eddystone we made all plain sail and stopped the engines, steering off to S.W. with a light N.W. breeze, and, having set the watch, we all turned in. At noon, on the 29th, we passed the Lizard, and at 1.20 sent letters on board the ship 'Queen of Australia,' from Calcutta, bound for Dundee.

After the 18th of July, we experienced nothing but alter nate west winds and calms, with generally a high swell from the westward. We continued beating to windward, taking ad vantage of everything in our favour ; but we made but slow progress, owing to our being laden so deep. On the 19th, we were in lat. 58° 58' N., long. 31° 33' W. I had endeavoured to get to the northward, in hopes of some change in the weather, which seemed so unusual for this season, and so opposite to our experience when crossing in the ' Fox. We constantly saw sinner whales (Physalus antiquorum *) generally going to the northward. Since the 12th, we had 1 Balœnoptera antiquorum of Gray is the big sinner, rorqual, or razor back, a cetacean from 60 to 70 feet long, black above and white below, with the flippers black.

The old name given by Fabricius is Balœna physalus. The Eskimo name is Tunnolik. It is not seen farther north than Rifkol. IN SIGHT OF GREENLAND. been accompanied by mallemokes {Fulmar petrels '), and since the 16th by a number of shearwaters (Puffinus anglorum2), which we passed in flocks on the water. We had calms on the 23rd, 24th, and 25th, with light winds from N. and N.E., followed by a fresh N.W. to W. wind on the 26th, when we were in lat. 57° 55', long. 42° 49', Cape Farewell being N. 17, W. 119 miles. On the 27th, boarded the 'Traveller,' of Peterhead, and obtained newspapers, and proceeded in com pany with her on the 28th, on which day we saw the first ice bergs. The next morning we had a fresh breeze from the E.S.E., and at five saw the first Spitzbergen ice. We passed a few straggling pieces, and at 6 p.m. came upon several streams of ice.

I then kept away to the westward, but finding that the wind was increasing, and a thick fog coming on to seaward, I steered in to the N.E. to go through the ice, and to get into the land water. At noon, we were in lat. 60° 14' N, long. 68° 20' W., the land' about Cape Desolation being plainly in sight whenever it cleared. Throughout the afternoon we were sailing through heavy ice, and received some severe blows ; but towards evening, as we hauled into the land, the wind decreased to a calm and light N.E. air, and the ice was very close. On many of the heavy pieces we saw the bladder nosed seals {Cystophora cristata3) lying basking, and, as we ranged the ship up near them, several fell victims to our sportsmen. These seals are quite unused to seeing human beings, for they appeared to take no notice of the ship beyond 1 The Mallemoke, or " foolish fly " of Crautz (i. p. 86), is the " Molly " of the whalers, the birds which come in greedy crowds to feed on the carcases of the whales.

It is the Procellaria glacialis, or Fulmar petrel, called Kakordluk by the Eskimos, and the black variety Igarsok. 2 The Manx shearwater (Puffinus anglorum) is not an Arctic bird, and is not met with north of the entrance of Davis Strait. 3 The bladder-nose seal (Cystophora cristata) is one of the largest in Greenland. Its name is due to a curious bladder-like appendage on its forehead connected with the nostrils, which can be blown up at will. The Danish name is klapmyd, the Eskimo neitersoak and nesausolik. IN SIGHT OF GREENLAND. raising their heads, and had we been in pursuit of them, we might have killed any number. I am surprised that some enterprising fisherman does not send out a ship or small vessel properly equipped for seal-hunting. A number of boats sent away from such a vessel amongst the ice in fine weather might secure a rich harvest of skins and oil.

In the evening of the 29th, being almost surrounded by heavy ice, and anxious to get into the land water, I got up steam for the first time since leaving England. We proceeded until 9 p.m., when we made fast to a floe to pick up some seals that were shot in passing, and to get fresh water, of which we had been sadly in want, owing to our long passage. We found this water deliciously soft and pure upon the surface of the floe-piece, and we remained until 11 p.m., when we cast off, and steamed slowly on towards the land. It was a brilliant night, almost calm, and with a clear sky, and as we approached the land the ice became slacker. By 4 a.m., on the 30th, we got into the land water at about fifteen miles distant from the shore. We passed many seals lying on the ice-floes, and numbers of birds in flocks were on the ice, in the water, and flying around us.

Chapter II. The Cryolite Mine

We were now off the entrance to Arsuk Fiord,1 the high land of Sermilik 2 bearing N.E.,3 and we could, after a short study of the coast, distinguish Storo, and the two cones of Umanak.4 The whole coast from S.E. to N.N.E. stood before us like a panorama, and the sea was so calm, and everything so still and peaceful, excepting now and then the rumbling of an overturning berg, or the distant echo of the floes as they pressed together to seaward of us, that it almost seemed like a transition to some other world. It was indeed enchantment, after the constant rolling of the ocean, and the crashing amongst the outside ice, which we had experienced during the previous afternoon. I now determined to proceed to Ivigtut to endeavour to get twenty tons of coal, and to steam to Disco in the event of the weather being calm ; we therefore turned the ' Pandora's ' bow towards Storo, and soon approached the land.

We found our late companion, the ' Traveller,' becalmed under the land, and surrounded with loose ice, so I went alongside, and offered to tow her into Ivigtut, a distance of sixteen miles. Of this offer the Captain gladly availed himself, as he did not otherwise expect to get in for at least two days, there being always a strong surface current running out of 1 This coast is the West Bygd of the ancient Norse colonizers of Greenland. Near Arsuk was the old Norse church of Steinnaes. 2 Sermilik means " having a glacier," from sermek, " ice formed on the land." 3 All the bearings are true, unless stated to be magnetic. 4 The word Umanak, from umit " the heart," is frequently used as a name for conical-shaped islands. This Umanak is the Cape Comfort of our old Elizabethan navigators. IVIGTUT. 9 the fiords at this season, caused by the mountain rivers, and the melting of the last remnants of the snow.

When inside the fiord, the wind sprung up and freshened from the S.E., which somewhat delayed us, and we did not arrive off Ivigtut until 4 p.m., when, finding that I could be supplied with coal, and not wishing to let go my anchor in thirty fathoms, according to the custom here, I went alongside the barque ' Thor ' by the permission of her captain. She was lying alongside a jetty, or rather stage, rigged out from the shore, and was being loaded with cryolite ; as she was securely moored, we were enabled to wheel the coal across in barrows. We found Mr. Fritz, the Manager of the Cryolite Company, most obliging and courteous. He offered us every assistance, and any supplies that we might require, besides pressing us to accept his private stock of pigs, which I declined ; but he insisted on sending me one small pig for the ship's company, and a large hamper of the most delicious radishes, which he had grown in the open air.

Nothing could exceed his kind ness, and I wish here to record it, and to mention that anyone going to Ivigtut is certain of a hearty welcome and the utmost attention from Mr. Fritz. We found the 'Fox,' my old ship, lying there, looking quite smart, and evidently kept in good repair. I went on board with Toms to have a look at the old craft which had been our home for two-and-a-half years, and I felt an inclination to linger there, and even some desire to exchange for the ' Pan dora,' although as yet the 'Pandora' has behaved in all respects to my satisfaction. Immediately we were secured I gave leave to all hands, and notwithstanding the myriads of mosquitoes, which ren dered the shore intolerable, all the men went on excursions, their principal desire being apparently to exchange articles of European manufacture for anything of native workmanship, much to the advantage of the natives.

They also searched for IVIGTUT. a cat, as we had left without one, to which circumstance all our head winds were attributed. The result of their search was that we secured at least three cats and a pig. The mallemoke " Billy," which was caught off Farewell, and shorn of its wing, is kept as a pet on board. Ivigtut is situated about sixteen miles up the fiord named Arsuk, after the lofty island of that name, which borders the left, or rather the northern side of the fiord, and is composed of granite, with overlying syenite. The granite continues for about eight miles up the fiord on both sides, when it disappears, and alternates with gneiss. This gneiss forms the shore on both sides of the fiord for from seven to eight miles up to the spot named Ivigtut by the natives, where the cryolite 1 is found.

The name Ivigtut was given to this place by the natives on account of its fertility. Ivik means grass, and Ivigtut is the plural of Ivigtok, " rich in grass." Ivigtut was first frequented by the Eskimos for the purpose of fishing and drying the Arctic salmon, but was deserted on account of the increasing floating ice. We owe the discovery of cryolite to a peculiar circumstance. The G-reenlanders employed the water worn fragments of this mineral as weights for their fishing lines, and in this shape the first specimens were sent by the missionaries to Cojoenhagen as ethnographical curiosities. The cryolite is found near the shore, resting immediately upon the gneiss. The purest is of a snow-white colour, without any intermixture of foreign substances. The grayish-white variety which lies on the surface is considered the second quality of commerce.

It very much resembles ice which has been curved and grooved by the action of the sun's rays. In 1857 a license was given to a private company for working the cryolite. The number of men employed generally, amounts to one hundred 1 Cryolite is a very rare mineral, found only in the gneiss of West Greenland. It is the double hydrofluate of soda and alumina. The name is from upvos, hoar frost, and \i0os, stone. It melts like ice in the flame of a candle, hence the name. THE CRYOLITE MINE. 11 in summer, and thirty in winter, besides the superintendent and other oflicers. The workmen are relieved at fixed periods. They do not bring any of their families with them, and generally contract to remain three years, the mines being worked both winter and summer; a smaller mine, more "free from snow, being usually worked throughout the autumnal and winter months.

From 1857 to 1866 the number of tons exported was 14,000, in eighty ship-loads ; and from 1867 to 1875 the quantity was 70,000 tons, being an average of twenty-six ship-loads each year. The cryolite is used for a variety of purposes, but principally for making soda, and also in the United States for preparing aluminium. * At the time of our visit, the ships ' Thor ' of Hamburg, and the 'Alibi ' of Peterhead, were both loading a cargo, and the ' Traveller,' of the latter place, which we had just towed in, was regularly employed in carrying cryolite to Copen hagen. The ' Fox,' so celebrated in Arctic history, is now in the employ of the Company, and is used for bringing out supplies and reliefs of workmen to the colony. The cryolite is all brought from the mine (which is, perhaps, 200 yards from the sea) to the beach close to the shipping stage, and is stacked in large, square heaps, as being the most convenient for measuring it both for shipment and for the royalty to be paid to the Royal Danish Greenland Company.

I was so occupied on board that I had no time to make more than a very short visit to the mine. I then walked up the rising ground, being attracted by a large wooden cross marking the burying ground of the little colony. It was a well chosen spot, where vegetation flourished, and away from the works and habitations, commanding a lovely view of the fiord 1 For accounts of the cryolite mine, see a paper of Sir Charles Geiseck£, in the ' Edinburgh Philosophical Journal,' vi. p. 141 ; and a paper by J. W. Tayler, Esq., in the ' Quarterly Journal of the Geological Society,' xii. p. 140. These papers have been reprinted in the ' Arctic Manual,' pp. 341 and 344. See also ' Danish Greenland, its People and its Products,' by Dr. Henry Rink, pp. 79 and 313. IVIGTUT. and surrounding mountains. The cross bore the beautiful and appropriate inscription taken from Psalm cxxxix. 7-10 : ;' Whither shall I go from Thy Spirit ? or whither Shall I fly from Thy presence ?

If I ascend up into heaven, Thou art there : if I Make my bed in hell, behold, Thou art there. If I take the wings of the morning, and dwell in the uttermost parts of the sea ; Even there shall Thy hand lead me, and Thy right hand shall hold me." It was with a deep feeling of sadness that I noticed several smaller crosses, marking the last resting-place of the poor colonists who had left their native country to die in this desolate place ; and, with an earnest reflection on the above sacred words, I returned on board the ship to obtain a few hours' rest previous to sailing on the following morning.

Chapter III. Navigation On The Coast Of Greenland

Having received twenty-eight tons of coal, I started at 3 a.m. and steamed slowly out of the fiord. A fog which set in soon afterwards made me very anxious, as the water is too deep to anchor. I had no pilot, and had never been here before, and at one moment I thought of returning to the anchorage at Ivigtut, as the only place I could make, but fortunately, on rounding the western extremity of the island of Arsuk, the fog partially cleared, and we found a fresh S.E. wind blowing out of the fiord, to which we immediately made sail, and passed out to sea without further difficulty. We soon fell in with streams of ice, which were apparently being driven along the coast from the south, and out of the great bays about Julianehaab.1 The wind also increased, and we ran at some speed under reefed topsails to the northward, avoiding the ice as much as possible, but sometimes receiving a smart blow.

Our artist took some hydrographic sketches of the coast, and of the entrance to Arsuk Fiord, which if published will be of some service to future navigators of this fiord, the entrance of which is becoming of some importance, and is most difficult to make from the sea without a knowledge of the appearance of the land. We continued running with a fair wind all the after noon, though the ice compelled us to deviate greatly from a straight course, and by night it came on thick with rain, and so dark that the floes and floe-pieces could only be avoided 1 The southernmost Danish Greenland colony (in 60° 43' N.), but not the southern most settlement. Farther south there are the Moravian missions of Lichtenau and Frederiksdal, close to Cape Farewell. NAVIGATION ON THE with great difficulty. I was up all night, and hoped for better weather next morning, but the wind now increased to a fresh gale from the southward, and the ice became very close in some of the streams.

We continued running through streams along the coast, as to seaward the pack seemed much closer. At 7 a.m. on the morning of the 1st of August I close reefed, in the event of our having to round-to, but we succeeded in getting into clear water about noon. The barometer had fallen considerably, and I fully expected a heavy gale, especially as the rain began to come down in torrents, and the weather to thicken. In the forenoon we had to haul out of a heavy jam of ice pressed upon a long reef of islands and rocks which extended above our bows, among which the larger pieces had grounded, and had brought up the floe, forming a lee shore of the wildest description. Having cleared the western extremity of this danger, we again bore away, and at noon passed close to the " Vaidoe Island," just off the entrance to the colony of Frederikshaab.

But the thick weather pre vented our seeing more than the outlying isles and rocks, which we passed at one mile distant. In the afternoon we again passed through a very heavy stream of. ice, and on approaching the outer edge I heard the sea breaking violently amongst the floes. I took this as an indication that we were getting clear, and to the northern limit of the Spitzbergen drift ice. Shortly afterwards, in getting into more water, we suddenly experienced a heavy swell, and I then knew that we need not expect much more of this troublesome and dangerous enemy. In the evening we were approaching the glacier which extends down to the sea north of the Tallart Bank, and about twenty-eight miles north of Frederikshaab. It is the most conspicuous mark upon the coast of Greenland, and cannot be mistaken.

Our artist took a view of it. I remember that when we pushed through the Spitzbergen ice in the ' Fox,' the first landfall we made was COAST OF GREENLAND. this glacier, which immediately directed us to the position of Frederikshaab. In sailing through ice, especially if very close, it is difficult to keep the reckoning, and as such navigation is also often accompanied by thick weather, it is necessary, if possible, to have a sure landmark. The night proved better than I expected. The wind moderated, but the rain continued in torrents, and we passed through a quantity of drift masses of ice, which I supposed had been hung up by bergs grounded off the Tallart Bank and the glacier. But it was too dark to see anything, and we con tinued through the gloom with a good look-out, the ship rolling with her heavy deck-load, and everything dripping with rain and fog.

The morning of the 2nd of August broke thick with rain, but to my great relief no ice was passed. The wind fell off to nearly a calm, and as I fancied we must be near or over the southernmost Torske Bank,1 I sounded, and found twenty-five fathoms. We immediately stopped, and put over some fishing lines, but without success, as a light wind, with a current to the north, prevented us from keeping our lines on the bottom. The only things brought up were some conglomerate composed of ascidiæ inside horny cases, and outside the cases bivalve molluscs, and several common log worms. We steamed to the northward, and during the afternoon I observed many terns,2 kittiwakes,3 and a few looms.4 The surface of the water was frequently rippled as if by a strong current ; many pieces of drift ice were also passed, from all which I hoped we were setting to the northward.