New Guinea: what I did and what I saw

Chapter I

We embark at Genoa — Imagination and reality — Glimpses of the East — Notes by the way — Galle, Singapore, Java, the Flores Straits — Amboyna — Wahai— Our difficulties begin— The "Burong Laut " — Ghesser — A calm — Goram — Pigeons and Bats — Natives — A stampede — New Guinea at last !....!

Chapter II

Our first day on shore in New Guinea — A primeval forest in reality, as contrasted with a primeval forest in imagination — Kangaroos — Spiders' webs — Birds — Faor Island — A huge lizard — Cuscus Maculatus — Casuarina-trees — Kapaor — Bough is traders — Various types among the natives — In search of massoi — We ascend the mountain, and find a delusion at the top — Rajas — Farewell to Kapaor . . ... 19

Chapter III

Salwattee — We are received by the Orangtua — Sorong — Bernstein's house — An Englishman's grave — We take possession of our house and cultivate the natives, but with little result — My shooting expeditions — Fever — A boar hunt ....... 39 * A2 Contents. IV PAGE 47 114

Chapter IV

The River Ramoi — The Alfuros- — Short commons — Forest walks — A suspicious circumstance — The natives object to our presence, and charge us with causing the death of their children — A painful scene — Return to Sorong

Chapter V

The Papuans of Dorey — The Haja of Salwattee — Sennagi Braus — A comfortless voyage — Black cockatoos — I become dropsical — I land and see a family of Alfuros — On the 24th July I kill my first bird of paradise — I am suddenly cured of dropsy — An adventure with a hornbill — Trouble by sea — Mansinam — The missionary there, his success, and his prospects — Andai — We take up our abode there — Mr. Van Hasselt's visit — A groundless accusation against us — The forest — My Papuan guide — I catechize him, with odd results ......... 59

Chapter VI

Our expedition to Hatam is arranged — Four out of six bearers present themselves — Substitutes — We leave Andai — The Forest again — Birds of paradise — A suddenly invaded solitude — A friendly tribe, and hospitable treatment — Putat — A little science, which goes a very long way — Once more on the march — Putat Mountain — A splendid panorama — Short commons — A view of the Arfak Mountains — The path — Mountain scenery — Tree-ferns and rhododendron — Shrubs — Hatam — The Corano — A great day for me — Remorse and exultation — Albinos — A theory — I settle down for a while ....... 82

Chapter VII

Rules of the chase among head-hunters — A superb bird — A false alarm — A native plot — Its failure — A plot of my own — Its success — A black day — I leave Hatam. Contents. V 151 172

Chapter VIII. Page

A signal — A halt — Camp fires — Bats, small and large — A night scene — A cruel deception — Footprints in the sand — Letters from Beccari — Andai — -Severe illness, and good nursing — A resolution reluctantly formed — Sorong — "We embark— A double anniversary — A birthday feast — A bonfire of a boat .... 127

Chapter IX

The " Dasson" — A beautiful prospect — Poetical ideas and short commons — Sufferings from heat and hunger — Mesac's illness and death — A contrary wind — The " Vittor Pisani " — Count Lovera — A kind reception — The Dutch in New Guinea — We land at Dulan — The forest — The road — The raja — Arru Island — Dobbo, its features and importance — A happy man .

Chapter X

Battulei — A coral reef — Birds — Fruit-trees — Skulls — Treatment of the dead— Chinamen — Trade — Native customs — A mountain range — Ciaccia's home-sickness — The island of Ropo-ropo — Effect of music — Port Vittor Pisani — Native dress and ornaments

CHAPTER XL

Missing a bargain— Cleanliness and order of the native houses — Cultivation — Arms — Native carving — A remarkable club — Birds of paradise — A new species — An early start — A deadly weapon — Our last adventure at Orangerie Bay — A probable tradition — Poor Ciaccia — Peculiarities of the Natives — Their houses — I make friends with the women — Domestic animals — In sight of Cape Danger — Port Jackson — Double Bay 189 Summary of Observations made during my Voyage oii- 1872-73 Contents. VI PAGE 223 243 267 291 A VOYAGE TO YULE ISLAND IN 1875.

Chapter I

I resolve to return to Andai — I change my purpose — My reasons — I decide on exploring Yule Island — Somerset — What the Naturalist may do there — Insects — I become a nocturnal animal — Ants — Birds — The human inhabitants — Their manners and customs — Captain Redlich —Tawan — Rocky Hills— Darnley Island — A beautiful landscape — The natives

Chapter II

A Storm, followed by a pleasant surprise — I land on Yule Island — " The Queen " — Friendly Natives — We come to terms — Naimi — I select the site of my house, and it is marked out — I take possession and make payment — The Natives make acquaintance with my gun — Tent-pitching en attendant — Midnight visits — A regular invasion — Pleasant weather, and friendly relations — House-warming — The " Ellangowan " again.

Chapter III

I cross the bay — The Eucalyptus — Birds and insects — A new species of Gowra — Aicci — I show the Natives a looking-glass — A visit — Friendly strangers — The influence of women — A Papuan house — Mourners — I win golden opinions by showing respect for the dead — A snake — Rope-making — Some splendid visitors — Nature's gentlemen — A great haul of insects — Ocona — Nicura — An expedition is arranged.

Chapter IV

The wemen join our party, and make difficulties for me — A village interior — A tame snake — Pretended sorcery, and real fight — Aira — A painful operation — Curious belts worn by the Natives — Successful quest in the forest — Domestic animals — A fresh start — A sleepless night — A beautiful scene— Perfumed air Contents. VII PAGE 351

Chapter V

1 officiate as both doctor and nurse— A native funeral — We ascend the river — Nipa — A huge snake — A handsome native woman — The Mareas — My umbrella — Friendly farewells — Mou— Cleanliness of the village — Naimi — A new species of bird — Sick and lazy people — The missionary steamer — We arrange with Mr. MacFarlane — A bitter disappointment — The value of " home " letters to a traveller . . . 308

Chapter VI

Our monotonous life again — A visit from people from the far interior of New Guinea — No more dread of hunger — It never rains but it pours — ISaimi's canoe — Barter with Pakao — A huge Liasis — -Their parasites — I figure as a rain-maker — A new-born infant — Matciu and the canoe — I win the Natives — Felling trees by dynamite — Pilfering of the Natives — Departure for Bioto and Naiabui — A strange combat at Night — Naiabui — I establish a friendship with the Natives — " Music hath charms " — I return to Yule Island, find my house has been robbed, and take measures to enforce restitution .... 329

Chapter VII

I go through sundry performances for the admonition and edification of the Natives — Return of my men from Naiabui — Insect-collecting — Naimi and Ocona — A great flight of Pteropus — A torment of the Inferno which Dante omitted — Confidence of the Natives — They go on a kangaroo-hunting expedition, and leave me in charge of the village and the women — " When the cat is away the mice may play" — The " Chevert " — Carpophaga Miillerii — Important additions to my collections — A gala day at Bioto

Chapter VIII

At Bioto again — My health becomes unsatisfactory — My tame snakes — My dog dies — I become very despondent Contents. VIII PAGE — Abia — Atouch of romance — Ocona arrives — Ahurri cane and its results — A reconciliation with Naimi — The death of Mr. Applin — Arrival of the Missionary steamer — A fine snake — I announce my intended departure — Grief of the Naiabui people — Wives — A clever spider — "Tater" — Travellers' tales — A sad parting — Friendliness of the queen ..... 373 Notes on Naiabui 390 Summary of Observations at Yule Island and Hall Sound 400 Catalogue of Birds collected in the Year 1872 . LIST OF ILLUSTRATIONS TO VOL. I. PAGE Portrait of the Author .....

Frontispiece Carved bamboo for lime . . . . . .17 Bamboo comb ........ 28 Hunting arrows of bamboo, and spear of cassowary bone 50 Native pillow, carved wood ...... 52 Panduri, a Dorey Papuan ...... 59 Karwari, or god, and amulet ...... 60 Implement used to wash sago ..... 81 Lophorina atra ........ 82 Ucoot (Arfak), Amar (Mausinam), and Koronoi (Dorey), men of the Author's escort ... 92 Parotia sexpennis ........ 104 Drepanorois Albertisii . . . . . . .114 Pbalangista Bernsteinii ....... 124 Phalangista pennata ....... 125 "Wooden spoons and pipes, used and made by the Arf'aks 132 Portrait of Quampau ....... 140 Andai people ......... 141 Portrait of Oubingai ....... 151 Club of carved wood ....... 191 Weapon of stone and wood ...... 194 Hornbills' beaks, used as a headdress .... 199 Headdresses and ornaments, Fly River, Orangerie Bay, Moatta,and Hall Sound; Gourd for lime, Fly River and Hall Sound 222 Paradisea Raggiana ....... 223 Mount Tule Range, seen from Vule Island . . 223 Mecynognathus Damelii ...... 227 Women of Moatta coming from the bush . . . 231 A Darnley Island man ....... 23S List of Illustrations.

X PAGE Darnley Island mummy . . ■ • ■ Skull, Darnley Island, Torres Strait . • ■ 241 Mount Owen Stanley 247 Various ornaments, Moatta, Fly River, and Hall Sound . 263 Stone axes, Hall Sound ; grinding-stone, Fly River ; shell spades, Moatta .....•■ 266 Goura Albertisii ......•■ 269 Harpyopsis Novæ Guineæ (Salvadori) . ■ ■ ■ 278 Epa 290 Dorcopsis luctuosus . . . . . . • 295 Paddles and spears, Fly River, Tule Island, and Hall Sound 297 Musical instruments, ornaments, &c. — Kataw, Moatta, Fly River, Hall Sound, and Tule Island . . 305 Eupholus Bennettii 334 Various implements, &c, Fly River and Hall Sound NEW GUINEA. MY VOYAGE OF 1871-72-73.

Chapter I

We embark at Genoa — Imagination and reality — Glimpses of the East — Notes by the way — Galle, Singapore, Java, the Flores Straits — -Amboyna — Wahai — Our difficulties begin — The "Burong Laut " — Ghesser — A calm — Goram — Pigeons and Bats — Natives — A stampede — New Guinea at last ! At 9 p.m. on the 25th of November, 1871, the steamer "Arabia," bound for Bombay, sailed from Genoa. Among the passengers were Doctor Beccari, the well-known traveller and botanist, and myself. Some friends had accompanied us on board in order to see the last of us, and wish us a pleasant journey and success in our under taking. This was no less than the exploration of the savage, distant, and unknown country of Papua. This word had an unknown sound in my ears. The idea of journeying to a land of ever verdant primeval forests, a region of per petual ecstasy — where I should find man the unspoiled son of nature, the free savage in his primitive state, — had taken such possession of VOL. I. b my mind, and so fired my imagination, that even the few minutes requisite for the steamer to leave the harbour seemed an eternity.

Before arriving at New Guinea we were to visit certain Eastern lands, where the modes and customs of life are as different from ours as the physical appear ance of the various races. This prospect also set my fancy stirring, and I could dream only of the fiery horses of Arabia, of the camels of the desert, of temples and pagodas, sultans and odalisques. I beheld in my mind's eye cloudless skies, golden horizons, and glorious sunsets ; while in the far distance, and at the extreme point of the vast prospect loomed Papua, the land of primeval forests, of primitive man — the land of the 'bird of paradise. The night of the 25th of November was dark, and at a distance of but three or four miles from the harbour all we could see of Genoa was a crowd of little lights, which looked like glow worms in the clouds.

A few miles farther, and only the revolving lantern of the lighthouse pointed out to us the place where we had spoken our last words of affection to a few dear friends. From Genoa we made Naples — from Naples, Messina. Before leaving the latter port we heard that the King, Victor Emanuel,had opened the first Parliament at Rome, and had uttered the celebrated words, " At Rome we are ; at Rome we will remain." In the state of mind in which I then was those words awoke great enthusiasm in me. We Italians had now a country, we had won a capital, which in former times was the capital of the world. At last we had a country for which Port Said. 3 it was our duty to labour. In my ears the words of the Re Galantuomo sounded like a command; did they not say to all Italians, " We are at Rome ; let us be worthy of Rome ?

" In taking our leave of Messina we said fare well to Italy. We arrived at last at Port Said, visited the tanks of Aden, and climbed its bare, black heights. I saw camels and horses, not Arabian, though belonging to the Arab. I saw the Arab himself, squalid and ragged ; women who looked like phantoms ; misery and vice under the same roof ; and men and animals living together like brothers — and I asked myself, " Is this the East ? " I saw the devout Arab prostrate himself to salute the rising sun ; but he prostrated himself in dirt, — and I asked myself, " Is it not possible that he should be rehgious and cleanly at the same time ? Of what use can religion be to the Arab if it do not take him out of the filth, moral and physical, in which he lives ? " In Bombay my former enthusiasm on the subject of the East was partially rekindled.

I saw the Towers of Silence, with the flocks of vultures circling in the air and watching for their daily food. My fancy showed me the bones, the heads, and the flesh of the Parsees, rent by those powerful claws and beaks ; and I pictured to myself the horrible spectacle of blood-stained limbs, until it seemed to me that I could actually behold the vultures picking from the orbits of a skull a pair of eyes, which had grown dim in study of the books of a religion which condemned them to become the prey of a foul bird. b2 I saw palms and ferns, and beautiful gardens, amid whose cool shades stood romantic bunga lows, and I saw a land of flowers that too often concealed misery and vice. Alas ! these are part and portion of humanity ! We visited the island of Elephanta, and its ancient temples, majestic witnesses, in ruin, to the life of a former age.

At Point de Galle we explored the palm groves, the plains, and the marshes ; and for the first time I beheld monkeys in a free and independent state, living at the cost of man, who tills the soil while they plunder its fruits. We saw the laborious and industrious inhabitants; but among them, also, vice and misery stalked in close companionship. At Singapore I saw two races of man hitherto unknown to me, the Malay and the Chinese ; and after I had visited their city by day and by night, and been present at a Chinese play, I again asked myself, " Can this be the East ? " From Singapore we went to Java, from Batavia to Beutenzorg, from Beutenzorg to Sinanlaya and Pangarango, an extinct volcano. Here I began to comprehend the meaning of primeval forests ; here I first felt the strange impression they produce.

I was struck with astonishment at the agility of hundreds of apes, who fled screaming at our approach. I admired the in dustry of the Javanese, who are at once both free and enslaved, but contented slaves, and tillers of the soil. I did not, however, linger in contem plation of the remains of their ancient religion and civilization, or in wonder at the temples Our Starting-point reached. 5 excavated in the deserted roads, and I hardly allowed myself a few brief reflections on the fate of nations. From Java we went to Macassar; and in passing Timor Dely and Timor Coupang, by the Flores Straits, we had a view of one of the most picturesque landscapes I have ever seen. From Timor we made Banda, a volcanic island where the nutmeg abounds ; from Banda we reached Amboyna, the capital of the Moluccas, and our starting-point for New Guinea.

While we were making preparations for the voyage we determined to visit the island of Bouro, and Wahai in the island of Ceram. We left Amboyna on board the " Dasson," a steamer belonging to the Dutch fleet, on the 10th of March, and landed at a village, which we had descried at a great distance by the aid of its many mosques. This village, whose houses are built of wood and covered with palm-leaves, is called Kaieli. Entering the bay, we saw on the right a plain, on the left and in the background a range of hills, forming an amphitheatre. In the lower part grows a plant called the kaju-puti, from which an oil, of great virtue in the cure of rheumatism, is expressed. Tobacco, which is, probably, sold as pure Virginian, is grown here by some Ame rican settlers. The Resident of Amboyna was a passenger on board the " Dasson," and a number of people were waiting to meet him at the landing-place, and pay their compliments.

When he disem barked music struck up — of a curious sort, as may be imagined, for the instruments were all gongs of various dimensions. Three or four dozen warrior-dancers, or dancer-warriors, dressed after the fashion of the East, in white tunics and red turbans, and with naked feet, formed an escort. Each of these held in his right hand a large knife called a parang, in his left a small shield. Braudishing their knives and shields, and twisting their bodies into a thousand contortions, they preceded the great man. The scene was at once striking and grotesque, and to me, as I was quite unaccustomed to such sights, the mix ture of brilliant colours, and the extraordinary motions and gestures, had something most fan tastic, singular, and novel. Fourteen rajas, or chiefs, of the tribes of which the village was composed, followed the Resident, who, when he arrived at a house situated at the end of a long street, sat down on a kind of throne, surrounded by all the nota bilities of the country.

The music continued until a sign from the Resident put a stop to it, and also to the dancing. Besides these rajas there were people of all ranks. Some were dressed, half in Turkish, half in European style ; some had shoes, others had none ; most of the garments had once been black, but were now reddish and greenish in colour, and had never been made for the wearers. I remarked, how ever, that the people were cleanly in their per sons and attire. Sundry tall hats, which pre sented every gradation of colour, and which, from their shape, might claim an antiquity greater, perhaps, than that of the celebrated Iron Crown, attracted my notice. They, like the crown of Wahai 7 Italy, had certainly passed from generation to generation. After a voyage of twenty-four hours, under a deluge of rain, we arrived at Wahai.

From the sea only a few houses were visible, most of them being concealed by the vegetation at the foot of the hills. A little fort stands close to the sea shore, and in it are stationed fifty soldiers and two officers. A military doctor and five or six white soldiers form the whole European population, who naturally live the life of anchorites. We had a letter of introduction to the Commandant of the little fort, and on our presenting it he received us with all the politeness of the Dutch. He had been there for three years. He offered us his house, but he received us in the verandah. A shooting expedi tion was arranged for the next day : there are deer and wild boar in the island. We were much vexed at our failure to obtain any information about Outanata, a point of New Guinea which we had fixed upon as our goal.

The next day I went out shooting. I saw deer and wild boar, but only succeeded in killing some of the latter, although the former were very numerous. As we could not procure either guides or in terpreters for Outanata we returned to Am boyna. At last, on the 21st of March, the Italian colours were flying at the mast of a little schooner, which we had hired to take us to Outanata. It was called " Burong Laut," or Sea Bird. I had also hoisted a second flag ; it was white, with a red cross. This had been my com panion on the snowy steeps of the Alps ; now it accompanied me on the deep. In the murmuring sound which it gave forth when shaken by the breeze, it seemed to me that I heard its voice, asking why had capricious destiny sent it from the snow mountains of the Alps to flutter from the mast of a ship under the burning rays of a tropical sun ?

But there was no answer, and my faithful banner went fluttering gaily on, my companion by sea and mountain. Some gentlemen and ladies of Amboyna accompanied us on board to wish us a prosperous voyage. A few bottles of champagne were pro duced to drink to the safety and welfare of the ship, and then, after much hand-shaking, we took our departure. Signora Kraal, an Italian by birth, and married to a Dutchman, Captain Kraal, bade us a last farewell in the name of our country. Now" all these ceremonies are concluded, and we are alone with our crew. Fly, 0 " Burong Laut !" fly, 0 " Sea Bird !" and carry us far, far away ! On the 25th, at 9 a.m., after having passed to the south of the island of Ceram, we arrived at the little islands of Ghesser and Kalvari, where we found a schooner from Macassar and two praus at anchor.

It appears that they visit this island — which is a commercial emporium in these seas — to obtain slaves, skins of the bird of paradise, a small quantity of tripang, mother-of pearl, and tortoise-shell. Some of the traders are Malays, and others Arabs. Besides the birds of paradise, the houses are full of cockatoos, lories, and other birds of brilliant plumage, which Ghesser. 9 are taken alive to Macassar. I also saw two young cassowaries, free, but quite tame. Nearly all these articles of commerce come from New Guinea, especially the slaves. The inhabitants of the island of Ghesser are mostly Malays, and all are employed in trade, and probably in piracy also. The island is simply a vast sandbank, covered with scanty vegetation, and for the most part inundated at high tide. In the centre, however, the natives — or rather, the inhabitants — grow a few bananas and yams.

In this culti vation the women, who are Papuan slaves, and the children, are employed. These degraded creatures fled at my approach, and the impression they made upon me was a painful one. I have never seen a lower type of humanity. They present only a coarse physical resemblance to man, but seem to be totally without the spirit characteristic of the human race — to be, indeed, reduced to the condition of beasts of burden. At Ghesser we hoped to obtain information, and perhaps interpreters for Outanata or Lakaia, by opening communications with a chief or raja. I had my doubts, however, as to the success of our attempt. A beautiful dog, which had been given me at Amboyna, and which I hoped to take with me to New Guinea, wanted to follow me when he saw me leaving the ship, and jumped into the sea.

Poor animal ! His affection for me cost him his life, for the strong current carried him away, and the efforts made by my men to save him were of no avail. Towards five o'clock we touched at another small island, and found it inhabited chiefly by Papuan slaves, who on seeing us fled, and hid themselves; but afterwards, believing that we had not seen them, they followed us. When we re-embarked they came down to the shore, uttered a howl, and again fled. They then returned, and repeated this performance several times. Most of them were completely naked, and several were afflicted with the skin disease called " cascado." March 26th. — This morning, taking one of my men, I landed at the island of Ceram Laut, and remained there until eleven, collecting insects. This island is also inhabited by Papuan slaves, who live in the most wretched houses, if one can call them houses at all.

The women and children fled into their abodes, and stood peering at us curiously through the chinks. The island is covered with vegetation and partly cultivated. Those hills which I ascended are of coralline formation. I observed some gigantic fig-trees, which, with their mighty aerial roots, inspire every traveller in these regions with admiration. All round the island extends a bar of coral, where one may see countless varieties of living polyps. The raja, who yesterday promised to give us guides for Outanata, came on board to-day, accompanied by another man ; the difficulties, far from diminishing, had increased, so that it looked as if we should have to go by ourselves. It occurred to me that they were doing all in their power to hinder us from going to Outanata; and as, after much talking, we were convinced that this really was the case, we determined to go Goram in the Distance. 11 alone.

We weighed anchor in the afternoon, hoping to find guides at Goram Island. March 27th. — This morning I looked for the island of Goram, which we sighted last night, and to which we were then apparently near. But Goram was now very far off; during the night the current had drifted us farther away. A light breeze, however, carried us forward in the early morning, and at last we could distinguish the houses of a village on the island ; but at five o'clock we were completely becalmed, and lay motionless on the waters. The monotony of a day's calm was pleasantly broken by the gambols of a shoal of " Ikan babi," or dolphins, which surrounded our ship ; and the time passed plea santly while we watched their prodigious leaps out of the sea, and their agile movements in the calm and transparent water.

Countless thousands of sea birds followed them, and these creatures of the heights and the depths lent an aspect full of life, and which could not fail to interest for hours the most enmi-ye traveller to the lonely scene. March 28th. — At 1 a.m. I went upon deck, and saw Goram still farther off than last night. Our sails were hanging idly from the masts, the sea was apparently motionless, but, nevertheless, it was drawing us back. I saw some sea birds perched on bits of wood, passing by us ; they were carried along by the current. At 6 a.m. we were still farther from Goram. At midday we were nearer to Ceram than the island for which we were bound. At 5 p.m. the thunder growled to the north of the island of Ceram, and we could see that rain was falling there. At length the storm reached us, the sails filled, and our " Sea Bird" began to fly.

To-day, also, I have to return thanks to the flying fish and dolphins and sea birds, who by their gambols broke the monotony of a second day of calm. March 29th.— It is 6 a.m., and Goram is farther from us than the first morning when we sighted it after leaving Ghesser. The hopes which we entertained last night died away wdth the wind. Now the lightest of breezes hardly flutters the sails. Is it the strong current only that is carrying us from Goram ? I have my suspicions that the current is only an accomplice of the ill-will and the negligence of the captain. At midnight I found the men at the wheel sleeping soundly. I returned at 3 a.m. ; they were still sleeping ; and at last, at half-past 5 a.m., I found them for the third time sleeping, like the Apostles in the Garden. This evening, towards six, we had changed our course, and lost sight of Goram.