Three Years in Cachar. With a short account of the Manipur massacre ... Edited by J. H. Hartley

Preface

. — ♦ — TN first committing to paper the facts and in -*- cidents to be related, there was no intention of their ever meeting the public eye : they were written partly for pastime and partly for family gratification. To meet, however, the wishes and incessant enquiries of very many friends, the author has prepared the following account, which, though simple, we hope will prove none the less attractive. In reiterating her own adventures she has wisely refrained from stating to the full the intensity of those facts, lest they should savour of personal ostentation. Nevertheless, there is sufficient to present to the mind of the reader a few vivid glimpses of the reality of those adventures. In alluding to the Manipur rising, it is in tended merely to give a condensed rendering of the principal details, such as will enable the

PREFACE.

. peruser to grasp at once the needful particulars appertaining to the unhappy event, without in the least shadowing blame upon anyone. The author's presence in the vicinity, both before and after the rebellion, is sufficient to verify the statement of an unvarnished tale. The same cool and courageous spirit which characterized her childhood, in conjunction with her deep religious fervour, won for her a warm place in the hearts of those natives with whom she came in contact ; and her goodly example and kindly precept will do, if they have not already done, much to pave the way for other servants of Christ who shall minister to those who, until now, have sat in darkness, and in the region of death. In conclusion we desire to express our sincere thanks to those who have so kindly assisted us, not forgetting those with whom the author was closely associated during her sojourn in the Far East. James H. Hartley. Whitehaven, June, 1895. CONTENTS.

Chapter I

On the way to India — A storm — In the Mediterranean — We collide with a small vessel — Followed by a shark — Arrive at Calcutta — In the river Megna — Stuck on a sandbank — My first view of an Indian sunset — Revolting scenes — Silchar — My first dhoolie ride — We cross a native bridge — A mournful ditty — We arrive at Doyapore . . . Pages 15-28

Chapter II

Our new home — Its surroundings — A terrific storm — Earthquake — Bengalee plough and ploughman — His happy mood — Fruitful soil — Mode of threshing rice— Mr. S tries rice-growing — Its amusing results — Fish very plentiful — A visit to the bazaar ......... 29-36

Chapter III

Hindu ablutions — Castes and sub -castes — The Brahmin — Fulfilment of the Bhuta Suddhi — Choosing the site for a temple — Yhama, the judge — Rites for the dying — The heavens of the Hindu — The Durga Pudgah — A lively procession — Their smartness of dress— They visit our bungalow — Madame Durga thrown into the river . 37-46 CONTENTS. X

Chapter IV

Mohammedanism — Its degrading influence — Woman denied a soul — John Kumpani — Christian testimony — A torchlight procession — The Koranni babu escorts us to the Lisle Pudgah — Dancing girls — Jugglers — Daring use of the knives — Carelessness the cause of much disease — Jackals — Their legend — Cremating the dead — A native village portrayed — W7ayside patients— Prickly heat Pages 47-56

Chapter V

Engaging coolies for the plantation — Visit the tea factory — Teaplanting — Elephants needed — Progress of the plant — The planter's reward — Picking the famous leaf — Its preparation and completion — Coolies a favoured class — Their love for jewellery — Schooling a failure — Pay-day — Children at work — Morning inspection — The high caste — Their poor wives — The doctor's patient — A peculiar examination — Arrival of missionaries — A neglected sphere — A missionary's testimony — Sold into slavery — Polygamy rampant — Its results . . 57-68

Chapter VI

The Kukis— Their characteristics — Wre visit a Kukie village — The Kukie-rajah's hearty reception— He presents us with sticks — His promise fulfilled — Their fondness for dog-flesh — Skilful climbers — They prefer freedom to work — Their mode of carrying tourists — A barbarous practice — They invite us to a tamash — The Lushais — A wicked and murderous set — Visited by our troops— 42nd Ghoorkas on the march — Capture of five rebel chiefs — Lielpungah — His ghastly necklace — My adventure with the Lushais— A timely rescue — They shoot poisoned arrows — Manipur — Its inhabitants— Their past deeds of cruelty — Their cleanliness of person and dress — Our good relationship 69-83 CONTENTS. XI

Chapter VII

Disturbing influences — The punkah — Early morning rambles — Solitude in the jungles— The weaver and tailor birds— Parrots numerous — A gentle foe— The padre and other insects — Evening strolls — My encounter with a cobra — Its fascinating influence — Killed by the men — Followed by a tiger — The pony frightened — Mr. S tries to shoot it— It visits the native village — Returns to the bungalow — Baffled — It retires— Face to face with a panther — A trying experience — A successful trap — Leopards at play — A tiger fight . . . Pages 84-98

Chapter VIII

A secret scheme — We commence preparations — Our doings leak out — The new house finished — Our garden productive — A tiger hunt — The deadly combat — Cows stolen by tigers — We disappoint one of his prey — Havoc wrought by tigers — The catamount, or wild cat — Buffaloes — Their aversion to Europeans — A narrow escape — Saved by the doctor — We explore the surrounding jungle, and become acquainted with its teeming life — European versus Chinese shoes — The treacherous plank 99-108

Chapter IX

Outdoor exercise essential to good health — Household management and difficulties— The native servants' cheating propensities— Gungaw — He charges Mrs. S with stealing her husband's clothes— He gives notice to leave — We become fast friends — He stays three years — The panie-wallah's big fish — The bobarchy khana — Its occupants — The unruly khansamah — Off to the bazaar — The servant's preference for dirty water — Insect water for tea— The Chinese cook — Washes his feet in the soup tureen — A deceitful khansamah — Joggie and his funny ways — An amusing incident — His trouble with boots and shoes — Berto's choice of dress materials — Our native tailor — His bright idea — Men employed in the bungalows — The dhobie and his way of washing clothes — Butter-making — Calf-feeding — A mirthful sight 109-126 CONTENTS.

Chapter X

Destructive invaders— A midnight attack — The battle— The victory—Egyptian-like plagues— Their friendship and personal acquaintance — The soloist — The candle insect— Bitten by a poisonous insect — Centipedes — My narrow escape— A scorpion almost alights on my face — The bungalow-roof a nest for reptiles — A snake falls at my feet — The intruder carried away — An Indian gheko — Its mission — Our extreme solitude — My support in every crisis .... Pages 127-136

Chapter XI

Beginning of the Manipur trouble —Alarming tidings — The Royal Court— Two of the Princes quarrel — The Court splits into two rival parties — Zillah Singh and Angao Senna attack the palace — The Maharajah retreats to the Residency and resigns the throne, in spite of Mr. Grimwood's remonstrance — He passes through Cachar on his way to Calcutta — The new reign — Its short duration — Startling news— Open revolt — Telegraph wires destroyed—Suspense unbearable — Preparations for the advance — Arrival of fugitives, including Mrs. Grimwood — The Government decree — The Jubraj refuses to surrender — A sharp fight — A truce arranged — The Commissioner's party treacherously arrested — The attack on the Residency — Gallant behaviour of Mrs. Grimwood — The midnight retreat — Safe arrival in Cachar — A skirmish — Hostile intentions — Preparations for our defence — Three weeks' terrible suspense — Distressing news of Mr. Quinton's party — Trapped and cruelly murdered— Mr. Melville's sad end — A signaller shamefully maltreated — Arrival of reinforcements from Calcutta — Cholera — Mrs. S and I offer our services — Major Grant fights bravely — The Treasury looted — The Regent and his confederates captured — Justice meted out to the offenders — The new reign — British rule — The ex-Maharajah's death and lamentation — Peace once more restored 137-155 CONTENTS. XIII

Chapter XII

Magnificent scenery — Silchar— Our annual visit — Adventures on the way — Our procession — Polo playing — A Manipuri game — I visit the native shops and bazaar, and also the Maila bazaar — Afghans— A combative race — Review of the troops — A midnight intruder — The flying fox — Our jungle home preferred to Silchar — Return to Doyapore — A native wedding Pages 156-167

Chapter XIII

Influenza epidemic — Its fearful results — Homeward thoughts — Mr. S decides to return to England — We dispose of our goods — Faithful companions given away — Our last walk — Final impressions — We receive the salaams of the natives — Our long farewell — A retrospect .... 168-172

Chapter XIV

We stay at the ghord — Bid good-bye to our European friends — Part with our escort, and board the steamer — The babus and their wives — A stirring incident— Land at Goalindo — Calcutta — We drive to the gardens — A mistaken idea — Excessive heat —Fatal results — Departure of the Marchioness of Lansdowne — Leave Calcutta — A tidal bore — Madras — Indian jugglers on board ship — Followed by whales — Colombo — Adam's Peak — Mount Lavina — Spicy breezes — Aden — The dive-boys— Lack of water— Inhabitants and their peculiar habits— Pass through the Red Sea — Hopes realized— Suez — A rough experience— Dr. Stewart conducts service — Pompeii — Home . 173-188

Chapter I

On the way to India — A storm — In the Mediterranean — We collide with a small vessel — Followed by a shark — Arrive at Calcutta — In the river Megna — Stuck on a sandbank — My first view of an Indian sunset — Revolting scenes — Silchar — My first dhoolie ride— We cross a native bridge — A mournful ditty — We arrive at Doyapore. s\N Thursday, the last day of January, 1889, we " stepped aboard the Rewa, lying in the Eoyal Albert Dock, London. We had been scarcely an hour on board, when, above the usual tumult and noise, the stentorian voice of the captain was heard, " Let go the ropes." In a moment, and all that held us to our dear old land was severed. The day was beautiful and bracing, yet as we glided down the river all were more or less sad at heart, but our heart-sickness had soon to give place to sea-sickness.

A change we by no means relished. Early next morning the wind began to blow, gradually increasing in violence, until by four a.m. it was quite a hurricane. This fearful storm lasted upwards of five days, i.e. from Friday morning until Tuesday night. The maddened waves came rolling over our gallant ship, tossing her backwards and forwards in their angry play as if she were but a plaything for their fury ; sweeping the decks, and damaging the boats to such an extent that, apparently for us, there was no escape in case of actual danger. On the second day, to make matters worse, the engines broke down, and thus we were thrown upon the mercy of the waves for three days. The suspense was terrible. Our brave crew gallantly battled with the odds — our disabled ship flying signals of distress. The storm lasted all through the Channel, and nearly all through the Bay of Biscay.

We were told afterwards that, in the same waters, two vessels had gone down in that storm, one of them quite near to us. This news made us feel thankful for our deliverance. On Wednesday morning we entered the peaceful Mediterranean. Oh, what a change ! Overhead reigned the beautiful azure sky, without even the vestige of a cloud. All around the clear blue water, MALTA 17 sparkling in the rays of the morning sun, spread out herself as though she were one massive sea of glass. Along the coast, the hills of Spain and Portugal, with their snow-covered summits glittering like vast diamonds, and their bases bathed in rich colours by the changing hues of the vineyards with which they were covered, added the coup de grace to a picture of exquisite beauty. Lovely under ordinary circumstances, it was doubly so to us, bursting upon us as it did through a storm cloud.

Escaped from her fight with the storm fiend, our good ship sped on her way and soon we were ashore at Malta, our first place of call. It was a lovely day, so taking advantage of this we drove to the orange groves of St. Antonia, where we found the workers all busy packing oranges for the English market. We also paid a visit to the Church of St. John, in the Strada San Giovanni, famous for its decorations, monuments, tapestries, pictures, and relics. According to the keeper's story its history is as follows : — The first stone was laid, in 1573, by the Grand Master, De La Cassiere, a Maltese. The building was five years in the course of erection, being con secrated on February 20th, 1578. The pavement contains four hundred sepulchral slabs of costly marble, all beautifully carved with the arms and crests of the knights whose memories they com memorate.

The roof is richly ornamented with scenes from the life of John the Baptist. The walls are inlaid with slabs of green marble, while the high altar is of the most costly marble. There is also a chair, which is said to be kept for Her Most Gracious Majesty the Queen. Although it was but the 11th of February, the sun was exceedingly hot. On our way back to the ship I observed the women gathered in groups, plying their hands as well as their tongues, making Maltese lace. After leaving Malta our way lay through the Eed Sea. The heat there was almost unbearable, registering over one hundred degrees in the shade. An extreme change from the keen, biting spring winds of our homeland. On the passage through the Indian Ocean, we encountered another gale, which in this case was followed by a dense fog, during which we collided with a small vessel, causing no small uproar on board.

Fortunately, no damage was done. When the fog had cleared off we saw a large shark following us, on the outlook for a meal. The monster kept on the track of our ship for several days, CALCUTTA. 19 but wearied, I suppose, with vain waiting, he took himself off. Could the slight collision in the fog have had anything to do with the shark's appearance and persistent following of the ship ? — I cannot say ; but whatever brought Mr. Shark on the scene, his presence was not by any means relished. Many of the passengers clung to the superstitious notion that a death was inevitable ; that the shark follow ing the ship was a sure warning that someone's end was near, and that a living grave was ready to receive the victim — a fallacy which I need hardly say was repudiated by our own experience. On the 9 th March we reached Calcutta, aU in good health, with the exception of two passengers, who speedily recovered when on terra firma.

The heat at Calcutta was intense. In order to move about with anything like comfort, one had to get up and out at five o'clock in the morning, and turn in again at eight. From my own experience, which was confirmed by conversation with others, I would advise those who intend leaving our country for India to do so in Octoberor early in November, so as to arrive there during the cold season. The cool weather sets in during November, and con tinues until the middle of February— about three months. E On the 14th March we left historic Calcutta, with its seven hundred thousand inhabitants, for distant Cachar. We travelled by rail as far as Goalindo, a station on the river Ganges. Literally, it is on the Ganges, for, the structure having been frequently washed away, the company have erected in its place an improved floating station.

At Goalindo we got on board a steamer, and proceeded up the Ganges. We were all very tired with the extreme heat and want of sleep, and were bitterly disappointed, on looking round the cabin, to find it minus seats. There was nothing for us but to content ourselves with squatting down on the floor, and this we did with as much grace as was possible under the circumstances. When we got as far as the river Megna, a tributary of the Ganges, we changed steamers — a change we all enjoyed, so far as comfort was con cerned, but it was at this stage of our journey that we first began to feel that we were being fast cut adrift from the great world of civilization. The captain and the crew were all natives, and a comical lot they were. The first night we stuck fast on a sandbank, and, what with the clamour and shouting, sleep for that night was out of the question.

Not RIVER TRAVELLING. 21 until nine o'clock next morning was the vessel got clear away. Without further mishap we reached Fenchugan, a small village on the Barak river. Here we had IS THE RIVES MEGNA. to disembark, it not being possible to proceed further by steamer, owing to the low state of the river. We, however, found three rice-boats awaiting our arrival. The boats were very long, narrow affairs; so narrow, indeed, that when our beds were spread out we had not room to stir. How often we wished that the steamer could have proceeded further, as it was a palace compared with these. With the exception of a short walk in the evening, we had to spend four days sitting upon our beds. Our first evening in the rice -boats was not without its compensation, however, for we were privileged to watch one of those wonderful sunsets for which India is famous.

It was a magnificent spectacle. We saw nothing to equal it in sublime grandeur all the time we were in the East. The sky and the hills changed into hues and tints of every colour, fantastically blended, each gracefully melting into the other. As the sun sank towards the west, the heavens became glorious in a robe of bright crimson, while the hills stood out, boldly bathed in dark blue. When the mighty orb dipped and disappeared, the sky changed into a yet darker crimson, and then, like a falling curtain hidino* the lovely scene, came darkness. As soon as the sun goes down it is night ; twilight in India is unknown. These brilliant sunsets generally came before either a storm or an earthquake. This sudden coming on of darkness, combined with the fact that our boat was not provided with lights, REVOLTING SCENES. 23 drove us to seek refuge in bed.

Scarcely had I been in mine for twenty minutes before I felt what I had often heard about — the loving-kindness of the mosquito. The bed was alive with the pests, and so affectionate was their welcome that sleep departed from me. With morning came relief, but my eyes were so much swollen that I was almost blind, and my face, arms, and neck were one mass of wounds received from my tormentors. Ever after, I took the precaution of using a mosquito net, which, on the whole, proved a pretty effectual protector, only a bold rover now and again managing to force an entrance. Eiver travelling in India has always one most revolting feature. In spite of the efforts of Govern ment to prevent it, the natives who live along the banks continue to make the rivers the general burying place for all their dead — man or beast.

Our feelings were much shocked to see the vultures and jackals sitting on the river banks, waiting for any dead body that might be washed their way. It certainly was a gruesome sight, and yet but for those scavengers of nature much more terrible consequences would follow this pernicious practice. While passing up this river, I had my first sight of idolatry. The gods of the poor deluded people were placed in a very commanding position on the banks. On the fourth night we landed at Silchar, a station on the north-east of our Indian frontier. Silchar is the principal town in the Cachar district. It is garrisoned by a strong force of Ghoorkas, under the command of British officers. There is also a considerable number of Europeans resident in the town. After being well rested at Silchar, we set out for our final destination, the nearest way lying through the jungle.

On the morning of our departure I was informed that my charge and I would have to travel in a dhoolie. A dhoolie ! What kind of a thing a dhoolie was, I had not the least idea, but before long I felt, as well as saw, more than enough of our dhoolie. In appearance a dhoolie is something like a palanquin. It is made of cane, and covered with a cover of bright red, to protect the occupants from the sun. Inside are placed rugs and cushions in abundance. The thing looked comfortable, but when we saw ten big black fellows alongside of it, with long sticks in their hands, it modified our inquisitive enthusiasm considerably. They had just come from a great feast, called the Lisle Pudgah. Part of the fun at this feast seemed to be the A IIHOOI.II. AMI ATTENDANTS, MY DHOOLIE RIDE. 27 throwing of a red substance at one another.

The men were all covered with this, and looked so funny, that I could not refrain from laughing. When all was ready, we crawled on our knees into our dhoolie, and off we set. I shall never forget this, our first dhoolie ride. We have had many a one since, but never one to equal this for dis comfort. No sooner had we started, than it seemed as if the object of putting us inside had been to shake us to pieces. As our path lay through the jungle, we not only had the terrible shaking to contend with, but every now and again the feet of our conveyance came into contact with trees or other obstructions, which greatly increased the horrid joltings we had to endure. Another source of anxiety was the crossing of rivers. This was done by means of the wondrous cane bridges con structed by the natives.

When first I saw one, my faith failed me, it looked so slim. A few upright bamboos driven into the river bed were all the support the bridge had. It was a flimsy-looking struc ture, and yet it proved quite equal to all that was required of it, a dozen of us passing over it at one and the same time. The spring on the bridge was awful, up and down, up and down, as if we were swinging on a rope in mid air. It made one feel giddy, and right glad to get on solid ground again. At times our dhoolie wallahs* all of a sudden would commence to run at a great speed, and then gradually settle down to a kind of trot, which was most irritating, and greatly tried our patience. They did not in the least think of our comfort, but took us along in any fashion they thought fit. At other times they would fall to singing a very mournful song to a most monotonous and distressful tune.

This I took to mean that they were tired, so I got out and walked, but still without any variation they kept grinding away at their doleful ditty. They had found out that I did not under stand their language, and so took advantage of my ignorance. Their conduct made me determined to overcome this obstacle by getting some knowledge of Hindoostani, and after I succeeded in this, our dhoolie rides never proved half so disagreeable. After a most interesting, and not uneventful ride, we found ourselves at Doyapore, the place destined to be our Indian home. * Carriers. CHAPTEE II. Our new home — Its surroundings — A terrific storm — Earthquake — Bengalee plough and ploughman — His happy mood — Fruitful soil— Mode of threshing rice — Mr. S tries rice-growing — Its amusing results — Fish very plentiful — A visit to the bazaar. npHE morning after our arrival I got up early, -*- being very anxious to view the surroundings of our new home.

The plantation was called Doya pore, and was situated upon the top of a hilly range, about eighteen miles from the Indian side of Cachar, and near to the borders of Manipur. The Cachar district is separated from Manipur by the Eiver Jhiri. Near the river is the village of Lahki pur, where the fugitives who fled from Manipur during the rising sought refuge. Our surroundings were grand. In front of us lay the Assam, or Naga Hills. On one side rose the Manipur Hills (a continuation of the Assam, or Naga Eange). On the other side were the Chin, or Lushai Hills. Several of these are upwards of seven or eight thousand feet above the sea level. They are covered with thick jungle, relieved here and there by small clearances, on which the natives build their tiny huts. The tribes inhabiting the hills are the Manipuris, the Kukies, Nagas, and Lushais.

One characteristic was common to all, namely, their economy in clothing. In the cool season they fire the jungle, in order to clear and prepare the ground for rice-planting. I was struck with the fact that at the time of our arrival not a flower or blade of grass was to be seen ; cows and buffaloes were reduced to a state that was pitiful to look upon. This was the outcome of five months of merciless and continued drought. Happily, this did not continue much longer. On the evening of our first day in Doyapore, we experienced what a storm in India meant. About eight o'clock the wind began to rise, and soon we experienced the violence of the tempest ; huts and other small structures were swept away in its violence. The gale was accompanied by a terrific thunderstorm — sheet, chain, and forked lightning flashed in one con tinuous stream of living fire.

It was fearful to behold. It was a grand but awe-inspiring sight. The thunderstorm was followed by a severe hail storm, or rather icestorm, for such indeed it was; A THUNDERSTORM. 31 large pieces of ice, of every conceivable shape, came dashing down with great force, and doing great mis chief. The hailstorm was succeeded by a torrent of rain, which flooded the bungalow, and anon carried away various small articles, besides destroying many others. Doubtless the fact of our living at so high an altitude caused us to suffer more severely from the storms. When a cyclone paid us a visit, we had to be up all night doing our best to prevent our house from being blown away ; and even after doing our best we not unfrequently found ourselves roof less. On one occasion, the house of our laundry man was so entirely swept away that one could scarcely tell where it had stood.

Of course, the houses were not strongly built ; indeed, it would have been foolish to have erected substantial build ings where earthquakes were so frequent. On the first sign of a coming storm, all doors were closed, and everything made as secure as possible. The gongs were set ringing to call in the plantation workers. Those who failed to escape in time had to run to the jungle, and take shelter under the bushes or in holes, the holes being preferred wherever they could be got at. These storms caused serious damage in the plantations. The tea bushes were cut and slashed in a most deplorable manner. The loss to the owners at such times was very heavy, amounting to hundreds of pounds. During the cool season we had frequent slight shocks of earthquake, which always came at night. More than once I have had to get up, and with my charge under one arm, and a lamp grasped by my other hand, wait, in readiness to rush out in case of danger.

The hill on which our residence was, had suffered so much from earthquakes and landslips, that our minds were always haunted with a fear lest we should find our selves unceremoniously shot down the hill-side into the jungle below. An earthquake causes one to feel very sick. The sensation produced by the bungalow rocking and heaving is not unlike that experienced when one is at sea for the first time. Throughout the whole extent of Cachar the soil is very rocky and sandy. In some of the plantations large quantities of shells may be gathered similar to those that strew the sea-shore at home. Between us and the mountains lie all the Ben galese and Manipuri villages. It was a most amusing sight to sit and watch a Bengalee at work with the plough. The plough was simply a thick piece of wood pointed at one end, with a piece of wood thrust through a hole at the BENGALEES. 33 other end to form a handle.