The Philippine Islands and their people: a record of personal observation and experience, with a short summary of the more important facts in the history of the archipelago

Front matter

THE PHILIPPINE ISLANDS AND THEIR PEOPLE MAYON VOLCANO, WITH A TAGALOG VILLAGE IN THE FOREGROUND — I.I ZON THE PHILIPPINE ISLANDS AND THEIR PEOPLE A RECORD OF PERSONAL OBSERVATION AND EXPERIENCE, WITH A SHORT SUMMARY OF THE MORE IMPORTANT FACTS IN THE HISTORY OF THE ARCHIPELAGO BY DEAN C. WORCESTER ASSISTANT PROFESSOR OF ZOOLOGY, UNIVERSITY OF MICHIGAN Nrfo gorfe THE MACMILLAN COMPANY LONDON: MACMILLAN & CO., LTD. 1898 All rights reserved Copyright, 1898, By THE MACMILLAN COMPANY. XottoooB yttas J. S. Cushing & Co. — Berwick Sl Smith Norwood Mass. U.S.A. VLL

Preface

During the years 1870-74, Dr. J. B. Steere made an extended trip for the purpose of gathering zoological specimens and ethnological material, and in the course of his travels visited the Philippine Islands. He found the archipelago in an unsettled state. The fierce Moros of the south interfered somewhat with his work, means of communication between the islands were most unsatisfactory, and he was hampered by ill-health ; but in spite of the disadvantages under which he laboured he secured a considerable collection of birds. This collection was afterward submitted to the authorities at the British Museum, and was found to contain representa tives of no less than forty-three species which were new to science. Dr. Steere's results tempted others to visit this little known field, but Mr. Everett, an English naturalist, was the only one to make extensive collections.

He also discovered a surprising number of new birds. Believing; that much still remained to be done in working up the birds and mammals of the archipelago,

PREFACE.

VIII Dr. Steere planned to visit the Philippines again in 1887-88. He offered to take with him a limited num ber of men, who were to bear their own expenses, to profit by his previous experience and his knowledge of the country, and in turn to allow him to work up the material collected by them. An interest in the study of birds, as well as a desire to aid in the exploration of a little-known country, led three of his former students to join his expedition. His party as finally constituted consisted of him self, Mr. E. L. Moseley, Dr. Frank S. Bourns, Mateo Francisco, and the writer. Mateo Francisco was a full blooded Philippine native whom Dr. Steere had brought home with him in 1S74, and who had continued to live in this country. We arrived at Manila in September, 1887, and during the next eleven months visited Palawan, Mindanao, Basilan, Guimaras, Panay, Negros, Siquijor, Cebu, Bo hol, Samar, Leyte, Masbate, Marinduque, Mindoro, and Luzon, in the order named.

The expedition was unofficial. We were regarded with more or less suspicion by Spanish authorities, and on more than one occasion were seriously interfered with by them. The close of our trip found us with health seriously impaired by hardship and exposure. Bourns and I were firmly convinced that we should never again wish to risk such an undertaking. But unpleasant experiences

PREFACE.

IX became enjoyable in retrospect, and as we worked over our material and realized what had been accomplished and what remained to be done, the old fever came back on us. A year after our return we were making vigorous efforts to find ways and means for a second and more extended visit to the Philippines. We succeeded in interesting Mr. Louis F. Menage, of Minneapolis, Minn., in our project, and through his liberality our second trip was made possible. We sailed in July, 1890, intending to remain in the islands two years. At the close of the second Mr. Menage gave us an eight months' extension of time, my companion going to Borneo, while I remained in the Philippines. On our second trip we received the most courteous treatment at the hands of the Spanish officials. Warned by our previous experiences, we had applied through the Department of State to the Spanish Minister of the Colonies for permission to carry on our work un molested.

This gentleman had sent an order cover ing our case to Weyler, the Governor-General, and he in turn addressed a strong order concerning us to the officials in all the provinces which we visited. We worked in Luzon, Panay, Guimaras, Negros, Siquijor, Cebu, Mindoro, Mindanao, Basilan, Sulu, Tawi Tawi, Palawan, Culion, Busuanga, Samar, Romblon, Tablas, Sibuyan, and Masbate during our stay, remain-

PREFACE.

X ing in each island long enough to get a fairly repre sentative collection of its birds and mammals. Owing to the semi-official character of our expedition, we had exceptional opportunities for observation. We were thrown among all classes, from the highest Spanish officials to the wildest savages. For our own satisfaction we made careful notes and numerous photographs. At that time nothing could have seemed to us more improbable than that the information which we were gathering would ever be of use to our government, or of interest to the general public. The rapid march of events during the present year has brought changes which no one could have foreseen. My friend and former companion, Dr. Bourns, has placed his services at the disposal of his country, and, on ac count of his special knowledge of the Philippines, has been assigned to duty on the staff of the commander-in chief of the American forces operating there.

In view of existing conditions, it has seemed to me that our experiences might be of sufficient interest to justify their publication, and so the story of our sojourn in the islands has been written. While I hope that some of the facts brought out may serve to throw light on the present state of affairs, it is certainly true that conditions as they are to-day can be properly understood only in the light of those of days long since gone. The place at present occupied by the Philippines in the world's history is so prominent as

PREFACE.

XI naturally to suggest the question, IV/iat place have they occupied in the past? It has seemed to me fitting, there fore, to preface my account of personal observation and experience by a brief resume of the more important points in the history of the archipelago, and I wish to say that I have drawn my historical facts chiefly from Mr. John Foreman's excellent book, " The Philippine Islands." DEAN C. WORCESTER. University of Michigan, September i, 1898. CONTENTS1

Appendix

LIST OF ILLUSTRATIONS Mayon Volcano, with a Tagalog Village in the Foreground — Luzon ........ Frontispiece PAGE Scene on a Manila Canal, showing Cascos and Dugouts . . 27 Spanish Mestizas, showing Tagalog Dress (without Tapis) — Manila .... ...... 34 A Bit of the Wall and Moat of Old Manila.

Entrance to Pasig River in Left Background ....... 41 * Outskirts of New Manila — from a Window in the Hotel de Oriente . . . . . . . . . -53 Bamboo Bridge and Cocoanut Grove — Luzon. ... 59 Primitive Agriculture — Luzon. ...... 72 * A Spanish Birthday Party — Puerto Princesa, Palawan . . 96 * Tagbaima Types — Iwahig River, Palawan .... 99 * Tagbanua Mother and Children — Palawan . . . -103 * A Typical Tagbanua House — Palawan ..... 106 * Tagbanua Women and Girls — Palawan ..... 109 * Skin of Huge Python — Palawan 115 * A Group of Zamboanguenos — Ayala, Mindanao . . .129 * A Typical Gobernadorcillo — Siquijor ..... 134 * Native House of Cana and Nipa — Mindoro .... 138 * Moro Houses — Sulu . . . . . . . .150 * Moro Arms . . . . . . . . . 155 * Moro Children — Sulu ........ 157 * From a photograph by Dr. F. S. Bourns LIST OF ILLUSTRATIONS PAGE * Mosque of Sultan Harun — Sulu .... . 159 * Moros fencing with Straight Krises — Sulu . . . .161 Moro Chiefs — Mindanao 163 * A Moro Village at Low Tide — Sulu 167 * Fully Armed Moros — Sulu . . . . . . .170 * The Old Sultana of Sulu, with Body-guard . . . 173 * The Rightful Sultan of Sulu, with Body-guard . . . 177 * The State Boat of Sultan Harun . . . . . .181 * Scenes in Sulu . . . . . . . . . .184 * Sultan Harun .......... 187 * Moro Musical Instruments, and Girl dancing — Sulu. . 193 * Moro Interior, showing Women and Children . . . -199 * Moros ........... 203 Mateo Francisco, a Typical Philippino . . . . .220 * A Tuba-gatherer — Salag Dak6, Guimaras .... 226 * Church, Convento, and Watch-tower — Dumaguete, Negros . 254 * A Typical Tribunal — Dumaguete, Negros . . . -257 * A Spanish Mestiza — Bais, Negros . . . . .261 * A Gobernadorcillo and his Wife — Bais, Negros . . .272 * Native Sail-boat, with Bamboo Outriggers — Mindoro . -275 * Watch-tower for Defence against the Moros — Siquijor . . 283 * Market-place and Entrance to Cockpit — Siquijor . . . 285 A Philippine Sawmill.

House with " Concha " Windows in the Background . . 311 " Mapa de las Yslas Philipinas " . . . facing page 342 A Typical Philippine Scene — Luzon ..... 360 * A Group of Mangyans, and their House — Mt. Halcon, Mindoro 366 * Married Mangyan Woman, showing Typical Dress — ■ Mt. Halcon, Mindoro . . . . . . . . -376 * Unmarried Mangyan Girls, showing Typical Dress — Mt. Halcon, Mindoro . . -379 * From a photograph by Dr. F. S. Bourns. LIST OF ILLUSTRATIONS XIX 1 PAGE * Typical Mangyan Houses — Adlobang River, Mindoro . . 383 * Our Camp on the Baco River — Mindoro. .... 397 * Group of Mangyans — Baco River, Mindoro .... 400 * Our First Timarau — Baco River, Mindoro .... 403 * Mangyan Storehouse for Grain — Mt. Halcon, Mindoro . . 409 * Group of Mangyans — Mt. Halcon, Mindoro . . . .411 * Group of Mangyans, showing Effect of Contatt with Civilized Natives — Laguna de Naujan, Mindoro .... 416 * A Crocodile awaiting our Convenience — Laguna de Naujan, Mindoro 423 * Partially Civilized Mangyans — Subaan River, Mindoro . . 426 Facsimile of a Page in an Anting Anting 432 Tagalog Houses along a Canal near Manila . . . -437 A Typical River Scene — Luzon 443 * House of Mr. Collins, our Headquarters at the Laguna de Bay — Luzon .......... 456 * The Old Stone Fort at Culion 484 *From a photograph by Dr. F. S. Bourns.

Chapter I The Philippine Islands In History

In the year 15 19 there began a voyage which was destined to prove of great historic importance. The discovery of the Pacific Ocean by Balboa had stimulated numerous adventurers to search for the passage which was believed to connect it with the Atlantic, but their efforts had ended in failure, and it was reserved for Hernando Maghallanes to win enduring fame by over coming all obstacles, and pushing on to success. Maghallanes, or, as we are wont to call him, Magel lan, was by birth a Portuguese nobleman. He bravely bore his part in the wars of his country until he received a wound in the knee which caused him to become permanently lame, and forced him to give up active campaigning. His success had been great enough to arouse jealousy, and his companions in arms were not slow to take advantage of his misfor tune by circulating damaging reports concerning him.

The king not only gave ear to these evil rumours, but added to them by accusing him of feigning an infirmity from which he did not in reality suffer. Stung by the ingratitude of his sovereign, whom he had faithfully served, Magellan renounced forever his rights as a Portuguese subject, and become a naturalized Spaniard. He succeeded in winning the favour of King Charles I, of Spain, and eventually entered into an agreement with that monarch to undertake the discovery of new spice islands. The king was to provide and fit out five vessels, and in return was to have a liberal share of the profits of the venture. On the ioth of August, 15 19, the little fleet set sail, and on the 13th of the following December it arrived safely at Rio Janeiro. Magellan now turned southward, determined to find the much-sought passage to the Pacific.

Severe cold was encountered, and mutiny arose in the fleet. The commander wished to put into one of the coast rivers and pass the winter. Some of his followers were will ing to abide by his decision, while others were deter mined to return home, and others yet wished to separate from the fleet and go their own way. The great dis coverer showed himself equal to the emergency. One of his rebellious captains was put ashore in irons. Another, who had the presumption to attack Magellan on his own ship, was executed, and discipline was thus restored. In the spring the expedition continued on its south ward course and on the 28th of October, 1520, discovered the straits which have ever since borne Magellan's name. His five ships had been reduced to three by the wrecking of one and the desertion of another.

With those that remained he passed through the Straits, and for the first time in history European vessels breasted the waves of the mighty Pacific. Magellan sailed steadily to the west, and on the 1 6th of March, in the following year, discovered the Ladrone Islands. They were named " Robber Islands " from the fact that the natives proved to be most adroit thieves, even going so far as to steal a boat from one of the ships. After a short stay at the Ladrones, Magellan continued on his westward course. The next land reached was the north coast of Mindanao, in the southern Philippines. The natives proved friendly, and furnished the Spaniards with abundant provisions. Their king gave glowing accounts of the richness of Cebu, and as its ruler was a relative of his, offered to pilot Magellan's expedition to that island.

His offer was accepted, and after first taking formal possession of Mindanao in the name of the king of Spain, the bold explorer sailed for the north. On the 7th of August he reached Cebu, and his arrival spread consternation among the armed natives who gathered on the beach. Their fears were allayed by the Mindanao chieftain, who assured them that the Spaniards were merely seeking provisions, and had no hostile designs. The king of Cebu accordingly proposed a treaty with Magellan, to be ratified by the ceremony of blood-brotherhood, after the native custom. Magel lan assented, and the ceremony was performed. The Spaniards erected a hut on shore and mass was celebrated in it, to the great awe of the simple natives. Members of the royal family, chiefs, and other influential men received baptism, and swore allegiance to their newly found master, the king of Spain.

The singular alliance thus formed seems to have been of the offensive and defensive sort. At all events Magellan entered actively into a war which the king of Cebu was waging against his neighbours, and on the 25th of April, 1521, perished miserably in a skirmish on the little island of Mactan. The spot where he is supposed to have fallen is now marked by a simple monument. Trouble soon arose between his followers and the natives, and twenty-seven of the Spaniards were treacherously slain at a banquet to which they had been invited. Only one hundred were left to man three ships. The number was deemed insufficient, and one of the vessels was accordingly destroyed. The other two sailed westward once more, discovering Palawan, and touching at North Borneo. At Tidor they loaded with spices, but one of them sprang a leak, and the cargo had to be removed.

The other continued on her journey, and her crew, after many adventures and fearful hardships, finally reached their own country again, thus completing the first circumnavigation of the crlobe. Encouraged by the results of this venture, King Charles organized two more expeditions, neither of which was productive of important results. The Philippines had been nominally added to the Spanish realm, but their value was long a matter of doubt. The first serious attempt to take actual possession of them was made under Philip II, in whose honour they had been named. In providing for this new expedition Philip was inspired by religious zeal, his purpose being to conquer and Christianize the island ers. To this end four ships and a frigate were made ready, on the coast of Mexico. The army of invasion consisted of four hundred soldiers and sailors under the leadership of Miguel Lopez de Legaspi.

Six Augus tine monks accompanied the men-of-war, to watch over the spiritual welfare of the native races to be conquered. In due time the expedition reached the Philippines. After touching at Camiguin and Bohol and despatch ing a boat to Mindanao, Legaspi decided to land at Cebu. The ruling prince was greatly surprised at the appearance of so many formidable ships, and sent one of his subjects, noted for his bravery, to spy on the Spaniards and report. The man was much impressed by what he saw, and assured his master that the ships were manned by giants with long, pointed noses, who were dressed in magnificent robes, ate stones (hard biscuits), drank fire, and blew smoke out of their mouths. The artillery of the Spaniards also served to awe the prince, and he thought it best to make friends with such powerful strangers.

On the 27th of April, 1565, Legaspi landed, and took possession of the town. The natives, becoming sus picious of his motives, stoutly resisted him, and kept up their attacks for months, so that his position at one time became precarious ; but he was determined to remain. Little by little the people grew accustomed to the new order of affairs, and the pacification of Cebu and the neighbouring islands was proceeding steadily and rapidly, when the Portuguese arrived on the scene to set up a claim to them. They were driven off, how ever. In 1570 Legaspi's grandson, Salcedo, was sent to subdue Luzon. He landed near the present site of Manila, and was well received by the rulers of the native tribes in that vicinity, who seem to have been overawed by the appearance of the heavily armed troops. A treaty of peace was duly signed, and was ratified by the usual ceremony, the natives giving up their independence and agreeing to pay tribute.

What advantage they were to gain in return does not appear. One of the chiefs, Soliman by name, repented of his bad bargain, and attempted to make trouble. His forces were defeated by Salcedo, and he was compelled to renew his allegiance to the king of Spain. The territory now included in the province of Batangas was soon subdued, as was the island of Mindoro, and communication was established with Legaspi, who was subjugating Panay. He hastened to Manila, and on arriving there declared that city the capital of the archipelago, and the king of Spain the sovereign of the whole group. Dwellings suitable for Europeans were built, and fortifications erected. On the 24th of June, 1 571, a city council was established. A year later Legaspi died. The achievements of this remarkable man seem almost incredible when one considers the smallness of his force.

Could the natives have looked into the future, they would doubtless have given him a very different reception. Salcedo continued the work of subduing refractory tribes. His method was successful, and has been fol lowed more or less closely by his successors up to the present day. It consisted in allowing the conquered people to be governed by their own chiefs, so long as the latter acknowledged the sovereignty of the Spanish king. No attempt seems to have been made to explore the natural resources of the country, to open up communi cation between the different provinces, or to improve the condition of the people. Mere greed of conquest was apparently the chief motive of the invaders. The Spaniards were not destined to remain in un disturbed possession of their easily acquired territory. Shortly after Legaspi's death a rival conqueror appeared in the person of Limahong, a Chinese pirate and out law.

Limahongr had chanced to fall in with a Chinese trading junk which was returning from a trip to Luzon. This he captured, and forced her crew to pilot him to Manila. He brought a formidable fleet of sixty-two armed junks, carrying 4000 men and 1500 women. The news of Limahong's proposed raid reached Manila before him, and hurried preparations were made for the defence of the city. The Chinese attacked at once upon their arrival, forcing their way within the walls of the citadel itself, but were finally driven out. A second and more determined attack was made on the following day, and the invaders not only again got within the walls, but stormed a fort into which the Spanish forces had retired. A bloody hand-to-hand combat followed. The Spaniards fought with splendid bravery, and the Chinese were finally repulsed.

They retreated to their ships, but not before they had been so badly punished that they were glad to make their escape from the bay. Limahong now landed on the west coast of Luzon, and set up his " capital " at the mouth of the Agno River. For some months he remained undisturbed, but a strong force was eventually sent against him, and he was again forced to flee. He left the archipelago for good, abandoning some of his followers, who took to the hills. About this time began the long series of dissensions between Church and State which have continued to disturb the peace of the colony up to the present day. Supremacy was claimed by both civil and ecclesiastical authorities, and so much trouble arose that the Bishop of Manila despatched a priest to Spain, with instructions to lay the whole matter before the king.

This resulted in the publication of an important decree, the first of its kind, which provided in detail for the conduct of affairs in the Philippines. Tribute was to be levied upon the natives, and it was ordered that the sum thus raised should be di vided in a definite ratio between the church, the treas ury, and the army. Import and export duties were also established, as well as fixed salaries for all soldiers and state employes. Hospitals were provided for. The fortifications of Manila were to be improved, four penitentiaries were to be established at suitable points, and it was further decreed that a number of well-armed war-vessels should be maintained, to repel attacks from without. A most important feature of the decree was a proviso that all the slaves in the colony should be set free within a specified time, and that none should be made in future.

Money was provided for the erection of a cathedral, the number of Austin friars was increased by forty, and the wandering mendicant friars, who had previously infested the colony, were now speedily suppressed. Meanwhile, the only communication between Spain and the Philippines was by way of Mexico ; and the colony was dependent for additional troops, for manu factured goods of all descriptions, and even for money, on the galleons which arrived from time to time. At the beginning of the seventeenth century, the hostilities between the Spanish and the Dutch extended to the Philippines ; and the latter not infrequently sent strongly armed vessels to lie in wait for, and capture, the Mexican treasure-ships, thereby inflicting heavy loss upon the colony. A detailed account of the naval engagements which followed would fill a volume.

At one time a formidable Dutch fleet arrived off Manila Bay at a time when the governor was ill prepared to repel an attack, and had they pressed their advantage with vigour, they might have taken Manila and changed the history of the Philippines. They preferred, however, to lie outside of the bay, and capture the rich merchantmen as they attempted to run in. Their delay gave the Spanish opportunity to complete their preparations, and they eventually at tacked the Dutch fleet, completely routing it in the famous battle of Playa Honda. Reprisals followed on both sides, but the Dutch never succeeded in effecting a lodgement in the Philippines. They captured a Spanish colony in Formosa, but were themselves driven out by the Chinese twenty years later. After half a century of strife, they finally con centrated their energies on the development of their own East Indian possessions and ceased to molest the Spanish.

For some years thereafter, the only disturbing influ ences in the Philippines arose from the dishonesty of hissh officials and the eternal dissensions between Church and State. For a time the Inquisition had agents in the archipelago, to inquire into the private acts of individuals, and much suffering fell on many innocent people. An event of importance in Philippine history was the first massacre of the Chinese. At the time of the Tartar invasion of China, in the middle of the seven teenth century, one of the few Mongol chiefs who refused to yield was a mandarin named Keuseng. He at first retired to the island of Kinmuen, but finding his communication with the mainland cut off, turned his attention to Formosa, on which there were at that time Dutch settlements. Twenty-eight hundred Europeans were attacked by about a hundred thousand Chinese and were forced to surrender.

Keuseng now bethought himself of the Philippines, and despatched a Dominican missionary, whose acquaintance he had formed, to demand from their governor the payment of tribute under penalty of attack. In 1662 this envoy, Victorio Riccio, arrived at Manila, where he. was received with honour. Letters from Formosa had meanwhile reached some of the Chinese at the capital, and the governor, learning this fact, accused them of conspiracy. All the available forces were concentrated, and when everything was ready the Chinese were incited to rebel, and a general massacre followed. It is said that the Spaniards at first planned to kill every Chinaman, but before they had carried out this intention it fortunately occurred to them that the resulting lack of tradesmen and mechanics would cause inconvenience, so those who remained were graciously pardoned on condition of laying down their arms.

Some of the Chinese escaped to Formosa. Riccio returned to his master, and Keuseng prepared to take vengeance on the Span ish, but died of fever before he could carry out his plan. In 1 761 war was declared by Great Britain against France and Spain. Havana was captured by the British, and a fleet was despatched under Admiral Cornish, with orders to take Manila. On the 2 2d of September, 1762, this fleet arrived before the doomed city, and land forces were disembarked under com mand of General Draper. The surrender of the place was demanded and refused, whereupon Draper bombarded it. The Spanish garrison was inferior to the English force in numbers, but made a stout resistance, and 5000 native recruits came to its support. Two thousand picked men were ordered to attack the British position in three columns.

They were utterly routed, and fled in disorder to their homes. The city finally fell. Terms of capitulation were drawn up by Draper and the Archbishop of Manila, who, in the absence of a Governor-General, was serving in a double capacity. The agreement called for freedom in the exercise of religion ; security of private property ; free trade for all the inhabitants of the islands ; and the continuance of the powers of the supreme court, for the mainten ance of order. The Spanish were to pay an indemnity of $4,000,000. What followed would not, at the present day, be considered greatly to the credit of a commander-in-chief. Draper placed guards at the doors of the nunneries and convents, and then gave the city over for pillage during three hours. The English troopers are said to have shown moderation, but the Sepoys, of whom Draper had some 2200, outraged women, and robbed and mur dered the inhabitants in the very streets.

On the following day there was a similar scene, whereupon the Archbishop protested, and Draper restored order. The surrendered territory included the whole archi pelago, but the English were not destined to occupy more than that part of it which lay immediately around Manila. The garrison at Cavite capitulated, and at one time it was planned to send a force to Zamboanga in Mindanao, and establish a government there, but nothing came of this project. The conquerors were not left undisturbed at Manila. The day before the city fell, one of the justices of the supreme court, Simon de Anda by name, escaped in a native boat, taking refuge in the province of Bula can. He carried with him a supply of government stamped-paper, and proceeded to declare himself Gov ernor-General. He bombarded Manila with lengthy proclamations, and the British Council replied by de claring him to be " a seditious person, and deserving of capital punishment." j\nda raised troops, and desultory fighting ensued be tween his forces and the British without any decisive results.

A conspiracy to assassinate Anda and his Spanish followers was discovered among the Chinese in Pam panga province, and a massacre of the Mongols followed. Anda was so enraged with them that he issued a proclamation declaring them all traitors, and ordered them hanged wherever found. Thousands, who had been in no way concerned in the conspiracy, are said to have been executed. ■5 The war indemnity which had been agreed upon was not forthcoming. The British forces were harassed by attacks from without the city, and by fear of treachery within, and at last the officers fell to quar relling among themselves. Meanwhile, the war had come to an end in Europe, and the evacuation of Manila had been provided for by the terms of the Peace of Paris, concluded on the ioth of February, 1 763. A communication to this effect was given to the archbishop for the " Commander-in-chief " of the Spanish forces ; but Anda, maintaining that he should have been addressed as Captain-General, refused to receive it, and the war really continued until the Archbishop died on January 30, 1764.