The History of Wales from the earliest times to its final incorporation with the kingdom of England etc

Front matter

M EMAIL B 3R' Z B <& K . nil 'iii Ill M)WAIE ,A. THE HISTOKY OF WALES, /ram tjjt Carlitfit €mw. TO ITS FINAL INCORPORATION WITII THE KINGDOM OF ENGLAND; WITH NOTICES OF ITS PHYSICAL GEOGRAPHY, AND MINERAL WEALTH ; AND OF THE RELIGION AND LITERATURE, LAWS, CUSTOMS, MANNERS, AND ARTS OF THE WELSH. BY B. B. WOODWARD, B. A. LoND. VIRTUE AND CO., LONDON AND NEW YORK. MDCCCLIII. JOHN CHILDS AND SON^ BUNGAY. TO E. G. SALISBUEY, OF THE INNER TEMPLE, ESQ., BARRISTER AT LAW. My dear Sir, It is with great pleasure that I inscribe to you this History of your native country. In no other way can I adequately acknowledge the value of the assistance which, by books and counsel, you have on all occasions so kindly given me ; and without which I know not how I could have completed my task. I am the more glad to do so, too, that I hope, by your interposition, — for there can be no doubt that you are what your old hero lawgiver, Hywel Dda, would have styled a boneddig canhwynawl, — my book may be favoured with a friendly reception amongst your compatriots; and be kindly judged by them, notwithstanding its faults. I am, my dear Sir, Your most obliged and faithful, B. B. WOODWARD. St. John's Wood, London, 1st Nov. 1852.

Preface

. The interest possessed by a History of Wales, beside that which belongs to all histories, when truly told,— their being, in fact, each in its own way, the statement, and perhaps the solution too, of some one or more of the great problems which con cern mankind, — arises from two sources. It is almost entirely unknown in England • for although the Principality has been united to this country nearly six hundred years, and for half that time completely incorporated with it, the English in general have no further knowledge of its history, than can be found in that of their own land, in connexion with the names of Arthur and Llywelyn, Owen Glendower and Henry Tudor. And every passage of it is associated with scenes unsurpassed in romantic grandeur and beauty, with which most are now, in some degree, familiar.

Few words, therefore, will be required by way of preface to this book. It is more than sixty years since the last English History of Wales was written. And in that interval, not only have the materials employed by the historian been vastly increased, by the disinterment of records, invaluable for their antiquity and their genuineness, from the repositories in which they had for ages been buried* but historical studies have had a new spirit and scope imparted to them, by the labours of some of the most profound and philosophical scholars that ever adorned the world. In one particular alone, — the discrimination between History and Legend, which seems to have been scarcely suspected before, — enough has been done in the approximate determination of the canons of criticism, to make any work, produced at the present time, different, toto cœlo, from a predecessor at the distance of two generations.

The most ancient and authentic authorities which were accessible, have, throughout, been uniformly resorted to and followed, in preference to certain which have enjoyed

PREFACE.

. v a distinction to which, by their actual worth, they seem not to be entitled. Thus to the Monastic Annals, in Latin, both printed and in MS., from which the Bruts in the vernacular of Wales were undoubtedly derived, and to the documents contained in Eymer's voluminous collection, and the publications of the Record Commission, has been assigned the highest rank. And the next has been given to the early chroniclers of England • and particularly to those who lived nearest the events they have recorded. Lhuyd, with his editors and continuators, Powell, Wynne, Price, &c, occupies a lower place * and has been reluctantly and with caution referred to, when unsupported by other witnesses. Nothing, indeed, but the prescriptive right enjoyed by everv such " painful searcher " into antiquity, would, in many instances, have rendered even an allusion to his " Welsh Chronicle " necessary.

With regard to the bards, their social position, — dependents upon the princes and nobles * and the nature of the compositions, which most frequently contain allusions to contemporaneous events, — professed panegyrics upon their patrons ; alike forbid us to expect extreme accuracy in what they sang. Examples of the manifest untrust worthiness of these writers, as authorities for historical facts, have been pointed out on suitable occasions ; both in vindication of the scanty use made of them, and for the sake of those readers, who may be induced to examine for themselves the sources of any particular event. The amount of vigilance requisite to disentangle the indubitable matters of fact, from the luxuriant tendrils of the legends, with which they are, in all the earlier parts of the story, constantly overgrown * might be illustrated by reference to the works of Sir James Mackintosh, Sharon Turner, and other distinguished historians.

But the common reception of the tradition of Cadwaladr's pilgrimage to Rome, and of fictions yet more audacious, — e. g. the appropriation by the compilers of the Bruts of the incidents of the life of Ina of Wessex, to adorn the names of Ivor and Ynyr, (by which Mr. Price himself, in his Hanes Cymru, has been misled,) — will sufficiently demonstrate it. And, therefore, it may be here confessed, that at the outset of the present history, there was scarcely so much caution exercised, as experience, subsequently acquired, declared to be needful * and some matters, — the fictitious character of which could be demonstrated by comparison with well-established facts, as easily as that of the legends of Geoffrey of Monmouth, — have been narrated as genuine history. These errors are of trifling magnitude, truly ; and they have been committed in com pany with, and perhaps, in part, because committed by such writers as those just

PREFACE.

. vi now mentioned ;— but mistakes they are, even though they should never lack de fenders. Welsh readers will easily discover the writer's ignorance of their fine old language. But, how much soever this is, in itself, to be regretted, in respect of the History of Wales, it is a matter of comparatively little moment, — the oldest and most credible materials being still extant, in their original Latin ; and there being excellent translations of almost all the most valuable pieces in the Kymraeg. The assistance of a friend also has been gladly employed, whenever reference to Welsh authorities seemed absolutely needful. It will not be expected, that a Saxon should display the same kind of enthusiasm that a Kymro must, upon this subject. But it will be clear, that no groundless pre judice has been allowed to interfere with the narrative of the events of the story, or to warp the conclusions drawn from them ; and that wherever unfavourable opinions of the people or the princes are expressed, the statements are in accordance with the evidence; which is presented so fully ,'that every reader can judge for himself respect ing them.

The sketch of the Physical Topography and Geology of the country, which is prefixed * the chapters on the Literature and the Religion, the Laws and the Social Condition, of the Kymry at different periods, which are intercalated at intervals ; and the concluding observations on the present condition and the future prospects of the Welsh ; distinguish this (it is hoped, with advantage) from every other History of Wales. And the grateful acknowledgments of the author are due to the late Rev. John Jones, (Tegid,) of Nevern ; William Rees, Esq., of Llandovery ; the Rev. David James, of Liverpool ; the Rev. W. Basil Jones, of Queen's College, Oxford ; and the Rev. Robert Williams, of Llangadwaladr ; as well as to the gentleman to whom the work is dedicated, for valuable information, and suggestions relating to different parts of the undertaking.

DIRECTIONS FOR PLACING THE PLATES. Ii PAGE ABERGAVENNY ..... .380 ARTHUR'S STONE, vignette title. BANGOR CATHEDRAL . . . . . .307 BANGOR ISCOED ...... 78 BASINGWERK ABBEY . . . . . .329 BUILTH ........ 135 CADER IRIS ........ 3 CAERLEON .... 136 CAERNARVON ..... .569 CAERNARVON CASTLE .... .556 CAERPHILLI ........ 470 CAERPHILLI CASTLE ...... 291 CARDIFF CASTLE . . . . . . .305 CHEPSTOW CASTLE ..... 2 CHEPSTOW, FROM THE BRIDGE . . . . .482 CHIRK CASTLE ...... 563 COITY CASTLE ....... 246 CYFARTHA CASTLE ...... 40 EAGLE TOWER, CAERNARVON . . . . .557 ENTRANCE TO BEAUMARIS CASTLE .... 560 FALL OF THE TEIFY ...... 6 FLINT CASTLE ....... 494 GATEWAY AND BRIDGE, RAGLAND . . . . .577 HARBOUR OF HOLYHEAD ..... 63 HARLECH CASTLE ....... 574 HARLECH CASTLE, FROM TREMADOC ROAD . .. • . 573 HAWARDEN CASTLE ....... 468 HAY CHURCH . . . . . . .347 HOLT ......... 462 KEEP OF RAGLAND CASTLE ..... 677 LLANBERIS LAKE . . . . • .8 LLANDAFF CATHEDRAL . . . . •' .153 LLANRWST BRIDGE ....... 166 LLANTHONY ABBEY ......

PLATES DIRECTIONS FOR PLACING THE PAGE LLANTHONY ABBEY, WEST FRONT . • • - 50 LLANTISILIO CHURCH ...■•• 153 LLYN TEGID, or BALA LAKE 16 LLYN OGWEN .....•• 7 MARGAN ABBEY .....•• 383 MENAI BRIDGE, frontispiece. MERTHYR TYDVIL ..... .581 MILFORD HAVEN . . . . . ■ 12 MOLD ......... 269 MONTGOMERY .....•• 231 NANT Y GLO ...... .582 NARBERTH CASTLE ...... 364 NEWCASTLE EMLYN ....... 452 NEAVPORT ....... 19 OLD RADNOR ........ 340 PEMBROKE ....... 430 PEMBROKE, LOOKING WEST . ... . . .263 PENMAEN MAWR ....... 1 POWIS CASTLE . ... . . . .30 RAGLAND . . . . . . . . 86 RAGLAND CASTLE . . ' '. . . ... 24 REMAINS OF ST. DOGMAEL'S PRIORY .... 70 REMAINS OF THE PRIORY, HAVERFORDWEST . . .350 REMAINS OF CASTLE DINAS BRAN .... 424 REMAINS OF DYSERTH CASTLE . . . . .432 RHAIADER DU . . . ... 337 RHUABON ... . . . . .581 RHUDDLAN CASTLE . . . . . . 212 RUTHIN CASTLE ....... 566 SNOWDON, FROM CAPEL CURIG . • . > 246 ST. ASAPH ........ 145 SUGAR-LOAF MOUNTAIN . . . . . 4 TOWN AND CASTLE, PEMBROKE . . . .361 UPPER AND LOWER TOWN, FISHGUARD . . . 349 USK 375 VALE OF THE TEIFY . . . . . 10 VALE OF THE TOWY ....... 13 VIEW NEAR ABER . . . . . . 374 VIEW FROM CASTLE USK . . . . . . 2S9 VIEW IN COLDBROOK VALE . . . . 19 WELSHPOOL ........ 255 WYE AT ABEREDWY . . . . . . , ..:: uNSIII RE.

Chapter I. Physical Geography Of Wales

GEOLOGY. GEOLOGICAL EPOCHS. MINERAL WEALTH. Dr. Arnold has remarked, that a real and lively knowledge of the physical features of a country is indispensable to a correct understanding of the social and political con dition of its people. Completely agreeing with him in this, we begin our story of Wales with a sketch of its great natural features, elucidating them by a notice of the disclosures of their origin, made by the recent and minute research of geologists; not only because of the "intrinsic interest of these views of the history of this tract of Great Britain, in periods of incalculable length and antiquity, but also because it has been by these vast and wonderful changes, that those inexhaustible treasures of metals and coal, building-stones and slates, on which the later fortunes of the province have mainly depended, were first stored up, and afterwards brought within the reach of human enterprise and skill.

The southern part of the island of Great Britain, which is above double the breadth of England north of the Mersey and the Wash, and Scotland, has on the eastern side a rounded coast-line, with very few cliffs, but towards the west stretches out in three bold and forked promontories ; the two to the north, which are united rather than separated by Cardigan Bay, being divided from the longest and most southerly one by the wide channel of the Severn, which runs up far into the heart of the country. The surface of this part, generally speaking, rises, as you proceed in land, from the low eastern shores into high slopes and platforms; till, west of the Severn and the Exe, we have a " tumbled sea " of mountains, some almost isolated, and others in continuous ranges, attaining in several instances the height of 2000, and 3500 feet ; whilst the entire coast-line opposes an indented and often precipitous bar rier to the long and heavy roll of the Atlantic waters.

The tract enclosed between the Weaver, the Severn, and the ocean, we here describe as Wales, although it extends beyond the political boundaries of the Principality, both as they stand at present, and as they stoo ' when Harold brought the Saxon conquests to a close. We shall find the events o --gitimate^Welsh history not unfrequently overstepping even these limits ; yet within them were nursed that sturdy independence and patriotism, which the storms and the changes of so many centuries have never obscured in the breasts of the Kymry ; and there is also, in this tract, a unity and com pleteness of physical character, which renders the description of the whole much more easily intelligible than that of a part could be, and makes it advisable to neglect political exactness. Its extent may be estimated by the following particulars : From Carmel Point in Anglesey to Chepstow on the Severn, is about 145 miles ; and from Birkenhead on the Mersey to Worms Head in Glamorganshire, about 140 miles.

From the mouth of the Clwyd in Denbighshire to Barry Island in Glamorganshire, is also about 140 miles ; and from the mouth of the Dovey in Cardiganshire to Bridge north on the Severn, nearly 70 miles ; while Braich-y-pwll Head in Caernarvonshire extends to the west beyond the mouth of the Dovey, about 30 miles, and St. David's Head in Pembrokeshire, about 50 miles. It includes, beside the twelve Welsh counties, Monmouthshire and Herefordshire, with parts of Gloucestershire, Worcester shire, Shropshire, and Cheshire. The most conspicuous physical features of this tract are the mountains, we shall therefore describe them first ; the river-courses and coast-out line, which depend upon the direction and elevation of the mountains, will most naturally follow ; and thus the general appearance of the country will be clearly comprehended.

There are three principal ridges, composed of old rocks, which run nearly from S. W. to N. E. conformably with the strike of the strata. These are connected by transverse ridges of the same age ; and some of the hills of newer rocks, on the eastern frontier, run so much in the same direction as to seem to be continuations of them. The low hills of Anglesey are almost parallel to these great lines ; but in South Wales the mountains form an arch ; running for a little way parallel to those older ridges, and then bending round to the S. E. ; and the hills beneath this arch run from about W. N. W. to E. S. E. The N. E. angle is part of the plain of Cheshire, and the mountains west of it run from N. N. W. to S. S. E. The Shropshire hills between the Severn and the Weaver range almost N". and S., and the same direction is followed by the Clee Hills and Chelmarsh ridge, by the Abberley Hills and the Malverns.

The most northerly of these three ridges is that of Snowdon, and it covers nearly the whole of Caernarvonshire. Snowdon, or Eryri, is its loftiest peak, and rises 3571 feet above the sea: it is surrounded by peaks of almost equal elevation, Carned- Llewellyn being 3469; Carned-David, 3426; Yr-Arrig, 2999; Yr-Aren, 2472; Y-glefford-faun-ogdu, 2362 ; and Mynydd-Maur, 2276 feet above the sea. Pen-Maen- Maur, at the northern entrance of the Menai Straits, is only 1540 feet in height. The loftiest point of the Hiraethog Mountains, which overhang the Vale of Llanwrst, in Denbighshire, is about 1100 feet high; and that of Clwydian range, on the borders of the county of Denbigh and Flint, about 1840 feet. These ranges are nearly at right angles with the ridge of Snowdon. Southward across Merionethshire run two ridges, connecting Snowdonia with the chain of Cader-Idris and the Berwyns.

That " Fast by the margin of the deep, Where storms eternal uproar keep," — ' I ! ,(\ II i 15 |K ! I > ' ' I ' ■> so rugged and barren," with the wild and narrow valleys of Craig drw°- and Trws Ardudwy, has points varying from 2100 to 2400 feet in height. The inland ridge has Arenig-Fach, 2809 feet above the sea; Arenig-Faur, 2200 feet; and Rhobel-Faur 2367 feet high. Cader-Idris, Aren-fowddy, and the Berwyns form the second principal rid°-e, as we advance southward. The first-named mountain attains the elevation of 2914 feet; Aren-Mowddy, the highest point of the next range, surpasses it, being 2955 feet above the sea; and in the Berwyns, Cader-Ferwyn is 2363 feet in height; and Moel-Faur, 2050 feet. These are all in Merionethshire ; but in the S. of Denbighshire is the ridge of Cyrn-y-brain, which appears to be a prolongation of the Berwyns, and has one point 1767 feet, and another 1857, above the sea.

From Aren-fowddwy to the south, along the borders of Cardiganshire and Mont gomeryshire, runs the ridge of Plynlimmon, which is regarded as part of the Berwyn chain. It has two summits, Plynlimmon- Arwsty, 2391 feet; and Plynlimmon-Faur, 2463 feet in height. Eastward of Plynlimmon are several ridges of lower elevation, in part running in the direction of the chief mountain chains, as the Llandinan mountains, 1898 feet high ; and in part running transversely, as the Breiddin or Freiddin Hills, 1199 feet high ; Long Mountain, 1330 feet; Long Mynd, 1680 feet; and Caer-Caradoc, which connects these minor ridges with the third great ridge, 1200 feet high. These last are all on or within the borders of Shropshire. Beyond the Severn the Hawkestone and Haughmond Hills, and the Wrekin, form the eastern boundary of the district we are describing.

The third great mountain ridge commences almost at St. David's Head, and runs with a slightly curving course through Pembrokeshire and Caermarthenshire to the borders of Montgomeryshire. It bears the name of Precelly ; and its highest point, Precelly Top, is 1762 feet above the sea. The Tregarron mountains, which form a parallel ridge nearer the sea, are 1747 feet in height. The main ridge is much broken as we advance eastward. Radnor Forest, which lies a little south of the line, is 2163 feet high ; and Stow Hill and Black Hill, which lie a little north of it, are 1417 and 1500 feet high. Wenlock Edge seems to be a direct continuation of the chain, but it is of inconsiderable elevation. Radnor Forest appears almost like a transverse ridge connecting these chains of old mountains with the newer ones of Brecknock and Glamorganshire.

The Clee Hills of Shropshire, which are volcanic, have a directly vertical position; they are about 1800 feet high. The arch of mountains that rises from Caermarthen Bay, crosses Brecon to the borders of Herefordshire, and then follows the course of the Wye to the Bristol Channel, is of a different character from the three long ridges we have described above. It is composed of newer rocks, and wears a less rugged aspect. On the border of Caermarthenshire is one height of 2598 feet; and the Beacon of Brecon, or the Fan, is 2862 feet high. In Monmouthshire, the loftiest points hardly exceed 1000 feet. This arch, as we have called it, is rather a long succession of transverse ridges than a regular chain of hills ; and the same character is impressed on the heights of B the S. Wales coal-field, which is enclosed by it ; the greatest elevations in which are attained by Mynydd-Llangeinor, in Glamorganshire, 1860 feet high; and Mynydd- Maen, in Monmouthshire, 1568 feet high.

It only remains for the completion of this orographic view of Wales to mention the Abberley Hills, of very inconsiderable height, and the Malverns, under 1500 feet, which are plainly of volcanic origin, and which follow the direction of the Severn, and He almost due north and south ; the hills of Anglesey and those of the remainder of S. Wales being too low to make it needful to notice them particularly. Beginning with the estuaries of the Mersey and the Dee, the coast-line is low ; being chiefly formed by the alluvion of the sea and of the rivers. But at Orme's Head we have, almost suddenly, one of the boldest promontories of Wales. Beyond this head land the mountains of Snowdonia run down to the sea-shore, and form a fine entrance to the beautiful Menai Straits. These Straits have converted the N. W. branch of the promontory of Snowdonia into an island, the largest pertaining to Wales, and one of the largest satellites of the British Isles, — Anglesey.

It has a very indented coast, and numerous islets lie around it ; the chief of which is Holyhead Island. Between the low shores of Anglesey and those of Caernarvonshire, interspersed with cliffs and over hung with mountains, lies Caernarvon Bay. The southern branch of the Snowdonian promontory runs in the direction of the great mountain chains, to the S. W. ; and is prolonged beyond Braich-y-pwll Head by Bardsey Island. Hence the coast returns by a broken and cliffy bay, called Hell's Mouth, which is rendered more dangerous by a submerged bank, named the Devil's Ridge ; and from Wylfa Point it runs nearly parallel to the coast of Caernarvon Bay to the mouth of the Traeth-mawr, and Traeth-bach. Between Bardsey Island and Strumble Head in Pembrokeshire, lies the wide Bay of Cardigan. Its shores from the Traeth estuary to that of the Dovey are low and flat ; but off the very centre of the maritime mountains of Merionethshire, there runs, to the S. W., following the general direction of the mountain chains, a very remarkable ridge of sand and gravel, of about twenty miles in length, which is always marked by a heavy surf, and in storms exhibits the most terrible aspect, called Sarn Badrig.

The couplet we quoted above from Owain's " Circuit through Powys," for the purpose of identifying the position of those mountains, shows how truly the old kingly bard had observed the features of that part of his coast. There is no doubt that this ridge is the summit of a sunken mountain chain ; and a tradition respecting it, and another ridge, less dangerous in its appearance, and running in the same direction from the shore of Cardiganshire, called Sarn Gynfelyn, will be mentioned afterwards in this chapter. Below the mouth of the Dovey the coast begins to exhibit cliffs here and there, which become more frequent and formidable to the southern verge of the Bay. The line is more indented here, also, than it is on the coast of Merionethshire. Westward beyond the rugged promontory of Strumble Head, St. David's Head projects into the Atlantic ; and the Precelly ridge, which rises almost from the water's edge, has an extension in Ramsey Island, and the rocks beyond it, the best known and I ' most dangerous of which are the Bishop and his Clerks.

This south-western extremity of Wales is, as has been remarked, bifurcate ; and St. Bride's Bay, with its walls of cliffs, divides the branches. Skomer Island, with three others, smaller than it, lie off the southern branch; and beneath it is the deep cleft of Milfbrd Haven. The penin sula on which Pembroke stands is marked by the same features as Orme's Head, and is composed of the same rocks. Caldy Island is one boundary of Caermarthen Bay, the western side of which is cliffy, but the remainder has low and sandy and marshy shores ; with a wide but shoaled creek, into which the Llwchwr empties itself. Once more the physical features of Orme's Head are reproduced, between Barry Holmes and Mumbles Head ; and here, as elsewhere, the limestone rock has huge crevices in it, which in some instances have been transformed into caverns, by the chemical action of running water in ancient times.

Swansea Bay with its sand-banks succeeds ; and then the shores of Glamorganshire, jutting out as a low and broad promontory into the Bristol Channel ; across which, Barry Island, and other smaller islets, serve to show the connexion of the strata of S. Wales with those of the base of the great Cornish pro montory of England. In the narrowest part of the Channel the Welsh shores are quite level, and the rivers which run into it through very winding courses, and the tides, have thrown up extensive banks of alluvion, till we arrive at the Severn's mouth. It will be seen as we have proceeded, how completely the configuration of the coast line has agreed with the direction and character of the mountains and hills ; we will appeal only to the most remarkable example of this, — the shore of Cardiganshire, forming the south side of the Bay, which follows exactly the course of the Precelly Mountains.

And now we proceed to the rivers of Wales. There is a singular unity in the river-systems of this tract. It would not be difficult to believe that the valleys along which they run were all formed by one upheaval of the land, the greatest force of which was exerted some where in the neighbourhood of Plynlimmon. For one, or at most two, imaginary points might be selected from which these valleys radiate, following the courses of the great mountain chains on the western side ; and as we advance to the east, both by the north and by the south, bending round in longer and bolder curves, till the Dee and the Severn form nearly entire circles, and discharge their waters in the direction from which their fountains flowed. The arrangement of steel-filings round the pole of a magnet, is not a bad illustration of the general configuration of the river valleys of Wales.

We must mention the Severn first, inasmuch as it has the undoubted superiority amongst Welsh streams. This river springs from the eastern side of Plynlimmon, and runs in a N. E. direction through Montgomeryshire, to the border of Shropshire, where it is joined by the Vyrnwy, and other streams originating in the Berwyns ; thence it flows by a very meandering course, in a long circular sweep, through the counties of Salop, Worcester, and Gloucester ; during which it receives from Wales only the waters of the Teme, from Wenlock Edge and the Llandinan Mountains ; and is lost in the Bristol Channel. Its entire length is estimated at 190 miles ; and the basin drained by it is about 4500 square miles in extent. The Wye ranks next to the Severn, in position and magnitude. Its origin is but a short distance from that of the Severn, but it runs in a S. E. direction, between Brecknockshire and Radnorshire, almost to the Fan of Brecon, and is swelled by the waters of the Yrfon, from the desolate mountains at the head of Caermarthenshire, and those of the Ithon from Radnor Forest.; From the foot of the Brecon mountains, it turns for a short way to the N. E., and then resuming its former direction, in a shorter circle, but along a more wavy bed, it passes through Herefordshire and Monmouthshire, where, after being joined by the Munno, from the south side of the Brecon mountains, it enters the British Channel just at the Severn's mouth.

It is about 120 miles long, but it does not drain a surface of more than 1400 square miles in extent. The Usk rises on the north side of the mountain arch in S. Wales, and runs through Brecknock ; but it finds its way by a break in an arch south of the Fan to the inner side, and falls into the Bristol Channel below Newport. Numerous streams of less note fill the valleys of Glamorganshire. The next worthy of mention is the To wy, which springs up in the heart of the barren region below Plynlimmon, divides Caermarthenshire from Brecknockshire, then conforms its course to the Precelly mountains, receiving the various rivulets from their south sides, the greatest being the Cothy, and finally runs into Caermarthen Bay through a great rent in the newer rocks. The Tave, which joins the Towy at its mouth, and the Cleddon, which has Milford Haven for its embouchure, are rivers of less size.

The Teify rises not far from the fountain-head of the Towy, but it flows on the north side of the Precelly range ; where, following the course of the mountains most exactly, it serves as a boundary between Cardiganshire and Caermarthen and Pembroke, and enters Cardigan Bay a little below the town. The Eirion, the Ystwith, and the Rheidol flow from the Tregarron and Plynlimmon mountains into the Bay. The Dovey, or Dyfi, has a fine estuary, and rises in the Aren-Fowddy. The Maw, which has the Wynion as a feeder, drains the transverse mountain regions of Merionethshire. From the Arenigs there runs a small river into the deepest recess of Cardigan Bay ; and into the same recess flows, through the beautiful lakes of Llyn Gwynan and Llyn Dinas, the Glas Lyn, from the side of Snowdon itself. The Lyfni, and the Seiont, on the north of Snowdon, the latter of which passes in its course through the romantic vale of Llanberis, are of the same character.