South Australia; its advantages and its resources. Being a description of that colony, and a manual of information for emigrants

Preface

. The present work is for the most part the result of seven years' personal observation in the Colony of South Australia, and contains, from this source, detailed statements on the prospects of labourer and farmer, on Agricul ture, Stock Farming, Building, Gardening, Manufacturing in various branches, and last, not least, on Mining and Mineral Productions, in that flourishing Colony. The style of the book is, the Author pre sumes, much in correspondence with the sub ject ; for though the horny hand of toil cannot make fine strokes with the pen, yet it may represent the demands, the works, and the rewards of human labour. He feels that other wise he would have much to apologise for on a

PREFACE.

. VI this score, both in the manner and arrangement of his pages; but he has the hope that his plain garb and homeliness, and cursory method, will enable the proper class among his country men to come to his remarks without any fear of misunderstanding, or any feeling of want of sympathy with the Author. In short, the Book is in a rough dress, which, it is trusted, will not hinder its doing good service to all classes of those who need it. One leading motive which has converted the writer into an Author, a character which he never expected to assume, is the wish to pro claim to thousands and tens of thousands of his poor countrymen, and, it may be, even to the British Government, the capacities and kindli ness of the new home which may await all who are desirous to emigrate to the splendid country and exquisite climate of South Australia.

If he should succeed in directing a well-ordered stream of emigration to this favoured land, his whole object will be gratified. Wherever he found it expedient, he has availed himself of the valuable labours of his

PREFACE.

. VII predecessors who have written on the subject ; and he believes that his work will be found tolerably complete on the subjects which it pro fesses to treat. He has also added some lighter matters, and a few remarks on the natives, as well from his own experience as from the observation of two valued friends and fellow-travellers. New West End, Hampstead. April, 1848. Page 1 CONTENTS.

Chapter I

Demand for Emigrants in South Australia. — Late Arrivals of Emigrants. — Report on the want of Emigration. — Frauds on the Emigration Fund. — Opportunities of acquiring Wealth. — Labour Market. — What Class should Emigrate. — Cautions on First Arrival. — Advantages to Married Men. — Miners in demand. — Farmers and Farming. — On the Choice of Emigrants. — Adelaide Markets .

Chapter II

Emigrant Ships. — Fares. — Free Emigrants. — Articles required by Government Emigrants. — Rules on board Ship. — Articles required by Cabin and Intermediate Emigrants 26

Chapter III

First Establishment of South Australia. — Extent of Land. — Port Adelaide. — Population of Port Adelaide. — Road to Adelaide. — River Torrens. — Park Lands. — The City of Adelaide. — Bridges. — Population. — Small Towns and Villages. — Number and Description of Manufactories. — Churches. — Schools. — Public Houses. — Convictions of Offenders. — Government Revenue CONTENTS. X Page 60 154

Chapter IV

Agricultural Farming. Advice to Farmers. — Living in 'Town. — Hut Building. — Clearing Land. — Steeping Wheat.— Fencing.— Reaping Machine.— Average Crop. —Barley, Oats, Maize, Potatoes.— Expenses of Farming. —Building.— Purchasing Land.— Expense of Farming Eighty Acres.— Farming Implements.— Price of Farm Produce.— Tobacco Culture.— Agricultural Society

Chapter V

Cattle Farming. Prices of Cattle in Adelaide.— Expenses of Cattle Farming. — Horses. — Cattle Hunting. — Breed of Cattle for Dairy.— Bulls.— Milking.— Branding. — Burning the Grass.— Hutkeepers. — Benefit of Milking. — Cattle Owner's Life in the Bush. — Tea Drinking and Smoking. — Travelling to the Station. — Cattle Driving. —Fires .94

Chapter VI

Sheep Farming. Sheep in Australia. — Lambing Time. — Shearing. — Wool. — Expenses of Sheep Farming. — Profits. — Diseases of Sheep. — Washing the Wool. — Runs for Sheep. — Land Regulations. — Renting Land. — Licences for Runs ... .... 129

Chapter VII

First Introduction of Cattle into Adelaide. — Kangaroo Flesh. — Breaking in Steers for Draught. — Journey Overland. — Hostile Natives. — Raye's Journey. — The Bushman's Food. — Price of Cattle in New South Wales

Chapter VIII

Climate. — Rain Gauge. — Hot Winds. — Meteorological Observations. — Storms. — Earthquakes. — Diseases. — Sea- CONTENTS. XI Page 185 sons. — Gardeners' Calendar. — Native Trees. — Eucalyptus Tribe. — Manna. — Acacia Tribe. — Gum Acacia. — Glim mers. — Casuarina or She Oak. — Native Cherry. — Tea Tree. — Honeysuckle Tree. — Sarsaparilla. — Geraniums. — The Hop Plant. — Olive. — Indigo. — Tobacco. — Mulberry

Chapter IX

Wild Dogs. — Locusts. — The Wombat.— The Kangaroo. — The Emu 232

Chapter XI

Natives. — Their Habitations.— Working among the Settlers. — Grumblers in the State of Nature. — Painting the Body. — Native Women. — Clothing. — Superstitions. — Burials. — Corroberies. — Fighting. — Jealousy. — Stealing Women. — Night Attacks. — Treatment in case of Illness. — No Regular Medical Attendant allowed. — Port Lincoln Blacks. — Superstitions regarding Death. — Mr. Eyre's Account. — Observations of W. P. James, Esq., on the Aboriginal Natives of South Australia. — Also of R. G. Thomas, Esq 317 Appendix SOUTH AUSTRALIA; ITS ADVANTAGES AND RESOURCES.

Chapter I. Demand Por Emigrants In South Australia

— LATE ARRIVALS OF EMIGRANTS. — REPORT ON THE WANT OP EMIGRATION. — FRAUDS ON THE EMIGRATION FUND. — OPPORTUNITIES OF AC- QUIRING WEALTH. — LABOUR MARKET. WHAT CLASS SHOULD EMIGRATE. — CAUTIONS ON FIRST ARRIVAL. — ADVANTAGES TO MARRIED MEN. — MINERS IN DEMAND. — FARMERS AND FARM- ING. ON THE CHOICE OF EMIGRANTS. — ADELAIDE MARKETS. The great demand for labour in South Australia during the past few years, has naturally directed the attention of the colonists to Great Britain as the mart for supplying the deficiency ; and many efforts have been made to induce emigration to Adelaide, which, however, although partially successful, have not hitherto obtained a supply commensurate with what is required. Thus, notwithstanding the thousands of persons who have arrived in the colony during the last two years, the cry for, and the complaints of scarcity of, labour have been at no time greater than at present, at least so far back only as last August.

The impetus given by the mines has spread in every n [slH. I. SOUTH AUSTRALIA. direction. The farmers, in consequence of the high price of field produce, are not merely cultivating to a much larger extent than formerly, but they are de sirous to improve their present, or to build new and more comfortable, dwellings ; to form gardens, or chards, and vineyards, and to make other improvements on their grounds. Instead, however, of being able to make improvements, they are in the greatest perplexity to procure sufficient labour to reap their crops ; and probably they have already found, by painful experience, that it is better to stand idle, and not produce grain, where there is no chance of get ting it housed. I have myself seen many acres of good corn destroyed for want of the means of gather ing it in.

The sheep farmers are in the same plight, and complain as much as the agriculturists, for they must procure men to take care of their flocks, and they have to pay higher prices at the present time when the wool has become much less remunerative. The demand for men for new flocks and herds is also great, and the supply quite inadequate. Such is the information collected from the Ade laide papers, published directly after the arrival from England of about three hundred emigrants in the course of one day. These emigrants came in two vessels, which both entered the port at the same time, and caused a considerable sensation. The day after their arrival the port was thronged by hundreds of masters in want of servants, and high wages were offered. This may easily be verified from the newspapers which are there published — not, be it observed, CH. I.] 3 DEMAND FOR EMIGRANTS. in order to puff the colony to strangers, but for circulation in Adelaide itself.

It ought assuredly to be seen to by those who have no employment here in England, especially since at this time there is little difficulty in finding a passage out through the emigration fund. The great deficiency, however, is said to be felt in the mines, several of which are not worked, simply from the want of labour ; these alone it is calculated would give immediate employment to at least three thousand men. The miners at present in employment have been enabled to purchase cattle, horses, houses, and other property, or, where they have not been so thrifty, they have, at all events, evidently shown that they had more money than they could take care of, and scenes of extravagance and riotous luxury have been constantly witnessed. From the system of emigration hitherto pursued, it seems plain that the machinery at home, for diffusing information respecting the superior advantages of this colony as a field for labour and enterprise, is ex tremely defective and inadequate.

The result is, that although there are, and for a length of time have been, available funds to pay the passage of thousands from the three kingdoms, only an insignificant num ber have been induced to emigrate: notwithstanding, there is reason to believe that, if proper means were taken, an ample supply of superior workmen and agricultural labourers might still be procured, to their own great benefit and to the good and wealth of tbe colony. The late newspapers from South Australia give the most encouraging accounts of its prosperity, and mention that the crops are uncommonly floub [CH. I. 4 SOUTH AUSTRALIA. rishing and the wheat splendid *. From all quarters the wool crop is said to be excellent in quantity as well as quality, and in capital condition. The colony of South Australia was first established in December 1836, and has now a population of about 25,000 souls ; and certainly from its present cir cumstances, and equally from the intrinsic wealth it possesses, it may fairly be said that no settlement was ever more prosperous, or held out greater pro mise of becoming within a few years a place of con sideration in commerce and trade.

The following is an extract of a communication by the Colonial Secretary in South Australia, dated 11th July, 1846:— " The present very urgent demand for labourers, mechanics and others, quite obviates the necessity of my pointing out any class in particular which may be considered to be most in request ; and the high rate of wages now paid sufficiently indicates the in sufficient supply in the labour market, whilst it can not fail, at the same time, to afford encouragement to all the industrious classes who may be intending to emigrate from the mother-country, to seek a livelihood for themselves and their families in South Australia. The scarcity of female domestic servants is most severely felt by those requiring their services; and the consequent exorbitant wages now demanded by them are seldom conducive to their own welfare, or to the comfort of those by whom they are em- * A proof of the excellence of Australian wheat is that, when sold in England, it realises from two to three shillings per quarter more than the wheat of this country.

CH. I.] REPORT ON THE WANT OF EMIGRATION. 5 ployed. Cooks may be said to be almost extinct ; and for women who can be recommended for situations of trust, to take charge of children, &c, there is great demand. " The arrivals from Great Britain, as well as from the neighbouring colonies during the present quarter, have made no perceptible impression on the labour market ; and the difficulty now experienced by the colonists (agriculturists especially) in finding the ne cessary labour must be seriously impeding their ope rations. Mining being the most attractive pursuit, a large majority of the labouring classes are directing their attention to that object from those employments in which they have been previously engaged. " The prices of all the necessaries of life have ex perienced a considerable rise within the period em braced in this Report ; but no danger whatever need be apprehended of a scarcity of provisions arising from the introduction of emigrants to any probable amount, the colony, from its vast resources, being quite capable of producing food for at least double its present population."

It is indeed extraordinary that so little notice should be taken by the people of England of the means of providing employment for the large numbers of in dustrious and deserving labourers at present without bread. It is conjectured that in this country alone not less than 150,000 able-bodied men, willing to work, are unable to do so ; and it is to be feared that the present season may produce a state of mi sery such as has never yet been paralleled in this country. Vast numbers of labourers have certainly [CH. I. 6 SOUTH AUSTRALIA. emigrated to British America and to the United States ; but already those countries are complaining of the shoals of destitute persons that they have to keep from starvation ; their labour market, like our own, being overstocked. A petition to Parliament from British America is receiving signatures, praying that no more labourers be sent out there, and drawing a dreadful picture of the want and misery to which those who have emigrated without capital are ex posed.

But to turn to another and a brighter clime and picture. The latest advices from South Australia are most cheering, and the want of la bourers there is causing as great a stir as the over abundance of poor in this country ; and a petition, signed by the greater part of the colonists, has either arrived, or is on the passage, praying that the poor of this country may be sent out to them, and bitterly complaining of the indifference with which their former prayers for labour have been received. In addition to their petitions, they offer to pay for the passage of the poor, and pledge themselves to find them in work, with better wages and more food than they can expect to get at home. I can safely assert that during a residence of seven years in South Australia (with the exception of about eighteen months, when the colony was overburdened with go vernment debts), I have never seen or heard of a common beggar, or any person who could not obtain sufficient food ; and I am convinced that the condition of the labourer in that colony is many degrees above that of the man in constant employment in England.

CH. I.] FRAUDS ON THE EMIGRATION FUND. 7 The South Australian newspapers complain, and with great justice, of the many frauds committed by persons proceeding free to the colony in the emigrant vessels. They state that certain emigrants, who obtain a free passage at the expense of the emigration fund, rendezvous at the port without any intention of settling in the colony, making use ofthe bounty simply as a means of transport to their friends in the neighbouring settlements. The impropriety and injustice of the fund being used for such a purpose are obvious ; for the money thus alienated and wasted has been paid by the South Australians on purpose to bring labour to their shores, where it is so much needed. It is, indeed, difficult to put a stop to the practice al luded to, unless an agreement be entered into with the intending emigrants, making it obligatory upon them to pay back to the fund the price of their passage, in case they leave the colony before a certain time has elapsed.

Such a bond would, I believe, at once arrest this scandalous mode of peculation. To do this is of primary importance, for labour is the grand desideratum in the colony, and it is for want of a sufficiency of it that the produce of the country in many parts is rotting upon the ground and worse than useless ; a melancholy return to the industrious farmer, instead of that interest which he had antici pated for the labour and care bestowed upon his land. This destruction of valuable produce is taking place, let us remember, at a time when hundreds of thousands in England, Scotland, and Ireland are in danger of starving for want of work to supply them with food. The emigration to South Australia is loudly [CH. I. SOUTH AUSTRALIA. called for, and the demand for labour is so great, that many ship-loads of persons might be provided with permanent work the day after their arrival.

I con fess it is surprising to me, that in the midst of the distress, pestilence and death which are stalking abroad over the United Kingdom, the poor are still unwilling to trust themselves to that new land, where the comforts they would enjoy are ten thousand times greater than they can possibly expect here. England is a land teeming with wretchedness and beggary; in South Australia the beggar is unknown. In Eng land, even if work be found by the labourer, the money he receives in wages, in consequence of the price of provisions, is quite inadequate to provide him with good wholesome food; much more with warm and comfortable clothes. In South Australia every man, woman and child of ten years of age is able to earn sufficient food and clothing, and in a short time, with care and economy, to save enough to keep the wolf from the door in time of sickness, if such should come.

Many poor but industrious men emigrate thither without a shilling, and in four or five years afterwards are substantial farmers. Were it required, I could mention names, and give many instances ; but it must be observed, that none but sober, honest and hard-working men can save money in this way ; others have very little prospect of raising themselves above the common herd *. » Last August a voluntary subscription of 1,0002. from the people in South Australia, was sent to England for the famish ing Irish, and accompanied by a promise to send the same CH. I.] OPPORTUNITIES OF ACQUIRING WEALTH. 9 An Adelaide paper, the South Australian Register, speaking of the want of labour, remarks : " No amount of labouring population, which either a sus tained enthusiasm on the part of our friends at home, or the miraculous conversion of the emigration com missioners and the Colonial Office into stanch and active friends of this colony, would be at all likely to favour us with, will, according to our conceptions, reach one tithe of the quantity for whom constant employment at good, fair wages would most assuredly be found within our ample borders for many, very many years to come.

Want of hands is just now the universal cry. The corn that is at this moment ripe for the sickle within a circle of three or four miles' radius from Adelaide would employ, we are informed, from two hundred to three hundred men for the next five or six weeks, at the rate of from twelve to four teen shillings per acre, and yet the labourers are no where to be found with sufficient readiness. The recent arrivals, large though they may sound to the good folks in England, here proved but a drop in the bucket, ' the small dust on the balance, a very little thing.' ' This was written in December 1846 ; and the fact of much wheat being uncut, and therefore lost, proves that the writer was correct in his state ments. He continues as follows : " Under these circumstances, we do feel that the colony has abunamount in wheat.

Of this sum 5002. was collected during two days ; from which it would appear as if there were no scarcity of money, or food in the country, since the above subscription amounts to the sum of one shilling and sixpence for every -man, woman and child in the whole colony. B [CH. I. 10 SOUTH AUSTRALIA. dant excuse for any amount of indignation which it may manifest to those false, though professing friends in London, whose absurd notions on this vital topic may possibly have had the effect of dimi nishing the number of persons who would otherwise have been at once forwarded to our aid. We implore all those gentlemen in England, who are interested in promoting* the welfare of South Australia, to dismiss from their imaginations any such ' chimæra dire ' as that the colony can be overstocked with labouring emigrants.

In the ordinary course of events it is a sheer impossibility." There is great truth in all this; and it is my opinion, founded upon experience, that such is the favourable position of the colony, and such the demand for extra labour, that ten thousand persons, including women and children, would not cause the least sur plus population on its fertile lands. We may here properly introduce an extract from " An Address to the Starving and Suffering Millions of Great Britain and Ireland," by J. Stephens, Esq., editor ofthe Adelaide Observer and the South Austra lian Register, published on the 30th June, 1847. " Hear me, ye sons of toil," says Stephens, " and judge for yourselves from the following facts : " 1st. The local government has 28,000Z. in hard coin in its coffers to spend in public buildings, in bridges and in harbour improvements, in road-making and repairs, nearly all of are at a stand-still for want of contractors to undertake them, and artisans, skilful workmen, or labourers to do their work.

CH. I.] OPPORTUNITIES OF EMPLOYMENT. 11 " 2nd. Merchants, storekeepers, and capitalists find it difficult to build new warehouses, shops, and dwellings, or to enlarge or improve their present ones, not for want of money, but for lack of men. " 3rd. Mining proprietors and their operations are kept in check, and in many instances mines have been closed, owing to the insufficiency of labour or the extreme demands of miners and others employed. "4th. Farmers, who have numbers of spare oxen, horses, and ploughs, cannot break up so much land as they had succeeded in getting inclosed, still less take more into cultivation, for want of men to hold the plough, and of boys to drive. "5th. Stockholders and sheep farmers are con tinually on the look-out for more men and boys to attend to their increasing herds or flocks ; to form new flocks from their tens of thousands of weaned lambs, and to drive the additional teams required by the constantly increasing intercourse and traffic to and from the secondary towns, mines, and out-stations.

At this present moment some sheep farmers, out of sheer inability to find shepherds and mates enough, talk of boiling down portions of their flocks for tallow. " 6th. We are monthly importing thousands of pounds' worth of building materials from the neighbouring colonies, because we have not men enough to hew, saw, and split, and attend to the carting down of the timber and split stuff obtainable in our extensive forests. I may likewise mention that we have many kinds of wood suitable for furniture. The quarries yield building materials in great abundance [CH. I. 12 SOUTH AUSTRALIA. and variety, the slate produced being excellent for roofing and flooring purposes. Limestone is plentiful, and clay for the potter and the brickmaker is almost every where to be found. Finer clays have also been discovered in a state of great purity.

" 7th. Many useful manufactures might be profit ably added to the existing ones, but the obstacle again is the want of available and experienced hands. " 8th. As for the domestic servants of the softer sex, although in this colony they are considered better off than in any other part of the world, yet many worthy employers say that they cannot get any female servants for love or money. The fact is, that virtuous and well-conducted young women seldom remain long unmarried, the wife-seeking South Aus tralians seemingly caring little for dower." The following is the condition of the labour market, according to papers dated in Australia in February 1847 :— Bricklayers, in great request, and earning from Gs. to 7*. per day. Blacksmiths, a few wanted, at from 5*. to 6s. per day. Bakers, with board and lodging, 20s. per week.

Brickmakers, in demand, wages from \2s. to 14*. per thousand. Carpenters, in great demand, at from 5*. Gd. to 6s. Gd. per day. Cabinet-makers, in demand, wages 5s. Gd. to 6s. 6d. per day. Coopers, in great demand, and readily obtain from 5s. to 7s. per day. CH. I.] 13 LABOUR MARKET. Domestic servants, not to be obtained, wages offered, from 5s. to 7s. per week. Engineers, working, all engaged, at from 6s. to 7s. per day. Gardeners are much wanted, wages, varying ac cording to ability, from 10s. per week with full rations in the country, to the town rate of from 18s. to 21s. without food. Labourers, in town, without rations, 18s. to 22s. per week; in the country, with rations, 10s. to 12s. per week. At present, if an extra day labourer is wanted, it is almost impossible to obtain one. Miners, at day work, are paid at the rate of from 30s. to 42s. per week.

At tut work, tribute, or tow work, the earnings of miners have been considerable. Masons find employment very brisk, and can earn, according to ability, 5s. 6d. to 7s. per day. Plasterers find plenty of employment, at from 5s. 6d. to 6s. 6d. per day. Painters, not in great request, wages from 5s. to 6s. per day. Quarrymen labour under great temptation to turn miners, but they can earn at their own employment from 21s. to 25s. per week. Reapers are by no means thrown out of employ ment by the reaping machines. Many farmers still prefer the sickle, and are willing to pay more for hand labour in the field than the charge for machine work. The price paid reapers during the last harvest was 12s. 6d. and rations per acre. Shoemakers, including bootmakers, find employ- [CH. I. 14 SOUTH AUSTRALIA. ment plentiful, and, in proportion to their ability and diligence, can earn per week from 25s. to 45s. Sawyers are almost invariably paid by the 100 feet super; the price being, for deal or cedar, 7s. Gd. ; for gum or other hard woods, 10s. Splitters are much in request ; the prices are, for posts and rails for fencing and taken on the ground, from 16s. to 20s. per 100; shingles, 3s. per 100; broad paling, 10s. per 100; laths, 8s. per 1000.

Sailors employed in the colonial vessels are paid about 21. 14s. per month. Shinglers are paid, at per square of 100 feet super, from 4s. 6d. to 5s. Shepherds. There is no end to the demand for shepherds to meet the natural increase of the flocks ; the hut-keepers, who have scarcely any work to per form, and are mostly very old men or young lads, earn from 181. to 201. per annum, in addition to their food, and the shepherds' wages vary from 10s. to 15s. per week, also with rations. To deserving men various encouragements are held out, extra allowances given, and many a good wife is paid as well as fed for being her husband's hut-keeper. Sadlers and harness-makers find full employment ; but almost the highest wages given are 35s. per week. Tailors are paid at from Id. to 8d. per hour. Tinmen are not in great demand ; wages, 30s. per week.

Teamsters, sober and careful men, accustomed to drive either bullocks or horses, will find a choice of CH. I.] 15 LABOUR MARKET. employment, with good wages, and encouragement. The Burra Mining Company alone is paying more than 100Z. per day for cartage to and from the mine. Upholsterers, working. A few are much wanted, and might readily obtain 42s. per week, the demand for mattresses of various kinds, as well as of other upholstery articles, having become very pressing. Wheelwrights are numerous, but fully employed at 5s. 6d. to 6s. 6d. per day. Well-sinkers are in great request at a good rate of remuneration, most of the old hands having gone to the mines. Watchmakers (journeymen) not wanted; present wages, 31s. to 35s. weekly. The following extract is taken from the South Aus stralian Register of July 1847, and shows the pre sent want of labour to be as great as it was a few months since.

" We can offer to the distressed and pent-up population of the mother-country, or of Europe, full employment, liberal wages, cheap and plentiful food, a fertile and a healthy country, and abundance of land at a moderate price. To this pic ture of the advantages of the colony we know of no drawbacks, unless the habits of the emigrants and the occasional inability to resist the temptations to excess, furnished by the unwonted circumstance of possessing money beyond what is required for mere support, be considered as such. We believe that there is not at the present moment in the whole range of the British dominions a more promising field for colonisation than is presented by this pro- [CH. I. 16 80UTH AUSTRALIA. vince, nor one in which the success of the emigrant would be equally certain, easy, and rapid.

Many persons, whose previous habits unfit them for emigration to the Australian colonies, proceed thither with much conceit of their own abilities, and with absurd notions of the country they are seeking ; which causes them inevitable disappointment on their arrival, and probably leads them to make incorrect representations of the colony, to its great injury in the minds of others. The peculiar advantages that our colonies afford, in the matters of obtaining a living and making money, are but little understood by the generality of persons in England, and therefore the experience of one who has passed some years in South Australia may be useful and advantageous to the intending emigrant, if not to those who are at present settled there. The class of persons most required are those who either have been accustomed to manual labour, or who have made up their minds to serve themselves by engaging in any occupation that may call for their exertions.