Madeira, its climate and scenery. A handbook ... (remodelled and recomposed) by J. Y. Johnson. Third edition, etc

Front matter

HANDBOOK FOE MADEIRA In Preparation B? IHE SAME AUTHOR. I. Contributions to a knowledge of the Fauna of Madeira and the Neighbouring Sea. also II. The Flora of Madeira and the adjacent Islands. MADEIRA ITS CLIMATE AND SCENEEY. A HANDBOOK FOR INVALID AND OTHER, VISITORS WITH Chapters on the Fauna, Flora, Geology and Meteorology, BY JAMES YATE JOHNSON, CORRESPONDING MEMBER OF THE ZOOLOGICAL SOCIETY OF LONDON. THIRD EDITION, Entirely rewritten with the addition of mvch new matter, With a Map of the Island, a Plan of Funchal, a Map of the Environs, and an Outline View of the North-West Coast. LONDON : DULAU & CO., 37, SOHO SQUAEE, W. 1885. [All Rights Rescrved.\ J. S. LEVIN, ENGLISH AND FOREIGN STEAM PRINTING WORKS, 75, leadenhall street, London, e.c.

Preface

TO THE THIRD EDITION. Guide Books belong to so humble a department of Letters that Charles Lamb would probably have denied their right to be ranked as books at all. Nevertheless, in these latter days, guide-book literature has been so largely developed that works of this class now abound in all civilised countries, and it may, therefore, be pre sumed that they are found to serve a useful purpose, and that without the aid they afford the public would be less disposed to encounter the troubles of travelling, and less able to enjoy its pleasures ; in short, that the world would be in some degree the poorer if it did not possess them. This inference should be an encourage ment to writers who voluntarily undertake the tedious task of collecting a multitude of small details, and arranging them in a compact and convenient shape, for the help of those who run to and fro in search of the Good, the True, or the Beautiful.

The nucleus of the present work, written by the late Mr. Robert White, appeared so long ago as the year 1851. When a second edition was required it was placed in the hands of the writer, who, finding that much alteration was rendered necessary by the lapse of time, thought it the best course to rewrite and recast the whole. Several new chapters were then added, and the work received an entirely different character. The second edition having been long out of print, a third one is now presented to the public. In preparing it, the contents have been remodelled and recomposed to such an extent that very little of the original remains. The writer has endeavoured to give, in addition to the usual information of a guide-book, VI PEEFACE. such an account of the Island in its chief aspects as an intelligent visitor would desire to see, and could reasonably look for within the compass of a small volume.

The information has been brought down to the present year, and pains have been taken not only to make the work accurate and trustworthy, but to arrange the contents in such a manner that the reader may find his way about the volume without difficulty or loss of time, and be able to discover at once the particular subject he may be in search of. In the historical parts, Dr. Alvaro Rodriguez de Azevedo's elaborate notes to his edition of As Saudades da Terra, by Dr. Gaspar Fructuoso (a work which deserves the notice of the Hakluyt Society) have been consulted. When the annotator printed the old manuscript in 1873, he industriously sought out and brought together many interesting documents ; and everyone who henceforth takes in hand the subject of Madeira must needs have recourse to that valuable work.

The topographical, botanical and geological chapters are based upon personal observations, made during rambles taken summer after summer into various parts of the island. Eighty pages have been allotted to a description of the routes which lead to the best scenery and the most interesting locahties. In regard to the geology, the chapter is much indebted both to the published writings of Sir Charles Lyell, and Dr. G. Hartung, and to information personally communicated by them. Sir Charles spent some months on the island in the examination of its structure, and had at one time the intention of writing a distinct work on the subject, a task which ultimately devolved upon his companion Dr. Hartung. The chapter on the Fauna embraces many facts obligingly imparted by various naturalists as well as the results of the writer's own investigation carried on, as broken health permitted, for a long series of years.

He hopes to be able at some future time to publish a separate volume on this subject. The lists of birds, indigenous trees and ferns contain PEEFACE. VII all the species hitherto detected, and thenscientific names have been adjusted in accordance with modern nomenclature. The chapter on the Meteorology derives its chief value from its comprising a summary of the observations made at the Government Observatory, Funchal, for the long period of nineteen years. It therefore affords completer and more certain data for the study of the climate than any previously published in an English work. The list of Altitudes, given in an Appendix, is the largest that has yet been compiled. Many printed now for the first time were the result of Mr. J. P. Gray Smith's careful observations. The same gentleman has contributed an outline view of the cliffs on the North Coast.

Two or three pages of statistical details have been relegated to an appendix. Li addition to a Map of the Island, a plan of Funchal and a map of the Environs have been given. The former has been reduced, by permission, from the plan which Dr. Langerhans has had engraved for his recently published German Handbuch. And so (to borrow Dr. Gaspar Fructuoso's words, written nearly three hundred years ago), " from many pieces of information obtained from various persons, all worthy of credit, in the Island of Madeira and else where ; and from other things which I myself either saw or read, I have composed this account of the said island, arranging, abridging, expanding and dividing the matter into chapters, in the manner here set forth." J. Y. J. Funchal, Madeira. CONTENTS. MAPS AND PLANS. PAGE Map of the Island, at the end of the volume.

Plan of Funchal, faces page xxxi Map of the Environs of Funchal, faces page . . . 107 Outline View of the North-West Coast, faces page . . 173 Introduction "ii Chapter I. — Approach to Madeira from the North — Funchal Bay — "Landing 1 Chapter II. — Funehal 7 1. Streets. 2. Public Walks. 3. Fountains. 4. Eivers. 5. Forts. 6. Governor's Palace. 7. Town Hall. 8. Cathedral and Portuguese Churches. 9. British Churches. 10. Monasteries and Convents. 11. Hospi tals. 12. Poor House. 13. Prison. 14. Old Build ings. 15. Cemeteries. 16. A Stroll through the Streets. 17. Market Places. 18. Beach. 19. Boating in the Bay. Chapter III. — History of Madeira .... 30 Chapter IV. — Government — Political and Municipal Divisions — legal, Ecclesiastical, Educational, and Military Affairs — law of -Wills, Descent, and Entails — landlord and Tenant Chapter V. — Inhabitants — Manners and Customs — Religious Processions — Festas — Manufactures — Commerce — Imports and Exports 53 Chapter VI. — Agriculture and Gardening . 65 Levadas — System of Cultivation — Food Plants — Cattle, &c— Fruit Trees and Fruits — Other Trees — Gardens.

Chapter VII.— The Vine and the Sugar Cane . . 81 1. The Vine and its Produce. Origin of Malmsey — Early Wine Trade — Cultiva tion of the Vine —Vintage and Wine Making — Chief Wines — Annual Production and Export. CONTENTS. ix PAGE 2. The Sugar Cane and its Produce .... 91 Cultivation of the Cane — Sugar Manufacture — Confectionery. Chapter VIII.— Physical Geography .... 96 General Sketch — Tides — Oceanic Current — Sound ings — Variation of Compass — Earthquakes — Position of Funchal — Funchal Bay — Pico Buivo. Chapter IX. — Rides and Short Excursions from Funchal 106 Boads. Sect. I. Short Eides near Funchal . . . 107 1. New Eoad. 2. Cama de Lobos. 3. S. Martinho, Santo Amaro and Santo Antonio. 4. S. Boque. 5. Levada de Santa Luzia. 6. Mount Church. 7. Little Curral. 8. Bom Successo. 9. Paiheiro. 10.

Santa Cruz Eoad. Sect. II. Longer Excursions from Funchal . . 116 1. Cabo Girao and Campanario. 2. Waterfall, ravine of S. Luzia. 3. Pico Areeiro and the Ice houses. 4. Grand Curral. (1) Excursion to East side of Curral and thence to Boa Ventura. (2) Ex cursion to West side of Curral by the road to S. Vicente. 5. Bibeiro Frio. 6. Camacha and road thence to S. Antonio da Serra. Chapter X. — The South-East of the Island . . 124 1. Excursion by sea along the south-east coast to Machico. 2. Santa Cruz. 3. Excursions by land from Santa Cruz. 4. By boat from Santa Cruz to the Fossil Bed and the Lighthouse. 5. Machico and excursion to the Portella. 6. Santo Antonio da Serra — Lagoa Crater — Vista de Macella — PorteUa Pass — Lamaceiros Pass — Pico da Suna. Chapter XI. — The North Coast and Central Passes 137 Preliminary Information as to Travelling — Sugges tions for excursions to the North according to time . 140 Sect.

I. Porto da Cruz and Fayal .... 141 1. Porto da Cruz. 2. Penha d'Aguia. 3. Curral do Mar. 4. Eoad from Porto da Cruz by Fayal to Santa Anna. Sect. II. Santa Anna 144 1. Boad from Funchal through Bibeiro Frio to Santa Anna. 2. Boad from S. Anna through Bibeiro Frio to Funchal. 3. Santa Anna. 4. Ex cursions from S. Anna to (1) The Cortado Pass. (2) The Levada dos Vinhaticos. (3) The Bocca das Voitas. (4) Pico Euivo. X CONTENTS. PAGE Section III. The North Coast from S. Anna to S. Vicente 156 1. Boad from S. Anna through S. Jorge to Boa Ventura. 2. Eoad through the ravine of Boa Ventura and the Curral to Funchal. 3. Boad from Boa Ventura by Ponta Delgada to S. Vicente. Sect. IV. SaO Vicente 161 1. The Valley of S. Vicente its waterfalls, lava streams, &e. 2. Boad from S. Vicente by the Serra d'Agua to Funchal. 3.

Excursions from S. Vicente to tbe Paiil da Serra, Babac;-al, Fanal and Seixal. Sect. V. Seixal and Porto Moniz .... 171 1. Seixal. 2. Bibeira da Janella. 3. Porto Moniz. 4. Boad from Porto Moniz to Ponta do Pargo. 5. Eoad from Porto Moniz to Paul do Mar and Calheta. Chapter XII. — The South West of the Island . . 176 1. The South-West Coast : Cabo Girao. Eibeira Brava, Ponta do Sol, Magdalena, Calheta, Paiil do Mar, Ponta do Pargo. 2. Babaeal. 3. Eoad from Paiil do Mar to Calheta. 4. Eoad from Calheta to Magdalena and Ponta do Sol. Chapter XIII. — Porto Santo — the Desertas — the Salvages 185 Chapter XIV. — The Fauna 191 Bats — Seal — List of Birds — Beptiles — Batrachians — Fishes — Insects — Spiders — Land Shells — Marine Moi iusca — Polyzoa — Cirripedia — Crustaceans — Worms — Sea Urchins — Starfishes — Corals — Sea-anemones — Foraminifera — Sponges.

Chapter XV. — The Flora 216 List of Native Trees and larger Shrubs — Wild Plants — Naturalised Plants — Origin of the Fauna and Flora — List of indigenous Ferns — Mosses — Algæ. Chapter XVI. — Geology ; 235 General Sketch — Craters — Dykes — Lava Channels- Basalt — Minerals — Fossiliferous Limestones of S. Vicente and Porto Santo — Leaf Beds of S. Jorge and Porto da Cruz — Fossil Bed near Point St. Lorenzo- List of Geological Works. CONTENTS. XI PAGE Chapter XVII. — Meteorology and Climate . 256 Thermometric Conditions, with two Tables — Hygro metric Conditions, with three Tables — Barometric Conditions, with one Table — Winds — General Ee marks — Comparison of Torquay, Mentone, and Funchal. Chapter XVIII.— The Invalid's Chapter ... 275 Advice to Invalids — Summer Eesidenees. Addenda 285 Furnace Smoke — Arms of Funchal — Pictures at the Soccorro Church — Machin's Story — Map Corrections APPENDICES.

A.— Money Tables 287 B. — Weights and Measures 288 C. — Distances between different places on the Island . 290 D. — Time occupied in various Excursions .... 292 E. — Altitude of Mountains, Passes, &c 294 F. — Explanation of the Names of Places . . . 296 G. — Statistics ; Population, Commerce, Exports and Imports, Wine, Sugar 300 Index

Introduction

. Sect. I. Means of Transit, Outfit, and Money.— 1. Steamers from England to Madeira. 2. Steamers from Hamburg and Antwerp. 3. Steamers between Lisbon and Madeira. 4. Steamers between Madeira, and the Canaries. 5. Outfit. 6. Money. Sect. n. At Madeira. — 7. Quarantine. 8. Landing. 9. Custom House. 10. Hotels. 11. Furnished Houses. 12. Housekeeping. Servants. 13. Fuel. 14. Washing. 15. Horses. 16. Bullock Cars. 17. Hammocks. 18. Boats. 19. Local Steamers. 20. Consuls. •21. Bankers. 22. Physicians. 23. Dentist. 24. Chemists. 25. Post Office. 26. Submarine Telegraph. 27. Local Telegraph. 28. Clubs and Libraries. 29. Theatre. 30. Tradespeople. 31. Maps. 32. Language. 33. Teachers. 34. Photographers. 35. Souvenirs of the Island. 36. Divine Service. 37. Leaving the Island. 38. Explanation of the Plan of Funchal.

Sect. I. — Means of Transit, Outfit, and Money. 1. Steamers from England to Madeira. — Two lines of mail steamers to the Cape of Good Hope call at Madeira. One is the Union Steam Ship Company, which despatches a steamer to Madeira once a fortnight, and the other the Castle Packets Company, whose steamers call at Madeira every other fortnight. A large steamer of one or the other company leaves the south of England for Madeira weekly for three consecutive weeks, but in the fourth week there is no steamer of either company to the island. The shipping advertisements in the Times may be con sulted, and the respective secretaries will on application forward bills of particulars and plans of the vessels. In addition to these companies there are two at Liverpool, each despatching a steamer every alternate week from that port to the West Coast of Africa, calling at Madeira both outward and home ward.

There is thus weekly communication direct with Madeira, and for three weeks out of four twice a week. Of these four lines of steamers we proceed to give further particulars. Union Steam Ship Company. — Offices : 18, Leadenhall Street, London ; Oriental Place, Southampton. One of the fine steamers of this company leaves Southampton for the Cape every STEAMEES. XIII other Thursday, calling at Plymouth the next day. Passengers may go on board at either place, but the personal baggage must be shipped at Southampton, and heavy baggage must be forwarded to the same place two days previously. Persons travelling from London to Southampton have their railway fare paid ; those travelling to Plymouth are allowed a reduction o their railway fare. Length of voyage from Plymouth to Madeira, about four days.

Fares : first class, 19 guineas ; second class, 13 guineas. The fares from Madeira to Southampton : first class, 12 guineas ; second class, 8 guineas. Eeturn tickets are issued at a reduction of ten per cent. Agents in Madeira, Messrs. Blandy Brothers & Co. The Castle Packets' Company — Office : 3 and 4, Fencburch Street, London (Messrs. Donald, Currie & Co.) Once in four weeks one of their splendid steamers touches at Madeira on her voyage to the Cape, starting from London on a Tuesday and calling at Dartmouth on the following Thursday. Persons may go on board either at London or Dartmouth, and in the latter case are allowed a reduction of their railway fare. Heavy baggage must be shipped at London the day previous to leaving. Voyage from Dartmouth to Madeira, about four days. Fares : first class, 19 guineas ; second class, 13 guineas.

Fares from Madeira to London : first class, 12 guineas ; second class, 8 guineas. Eeturn tickets are issued at a reduction of ten per cent. Agents in Madeira, Messrs. Blandy Brothers & Co. The African Steam Ship Company. Liverpool Office : 31, James Street ; London Office : 21, Great St. Helen's. The British and African Steam Navigation Company. Liverpool Office : 48, Castle Street (Messrs. Elder, Dempster & Co.) ; London Agents : Messrs. W. A. Malcolm & Co., 5, Crosby Square. A steamer of one or other company starts from Liverpool every Saturday, bound to the West Coast of Africa, and calling at Madeira. They make the voyage in six or seven days. Fares : first class, £15, second class, £13. Eeturn ticket : £25 first class, available for six months. Messrs. Blandy are the agents at Funchal for both these lines.

There is also a line of cargo steamers between London, Madeira, and the Canaries, carrying a few passengers to Madeira, at the rate of £12. One starts about every five weeks from St. Katharine's Docks. Parcels had best be sent by these steamers. London Office: Forwood Brothers & Co., 60, Gracechurch Street, E.C. Agents at Madeira : Messrs. Blandy Brothers & Co. STEAMEES. 2. Steamers from Hamburg and Antwerp. The firm of Carl Woermann, in Hamburg, despatches almost every month one of their steamers to the West Coast of Africa, which touches at Madeira. Fare : first class, 300 Mark = £15. Voyage about nine days. There is a line of steamers belonging to the Hamburg and South American Company conveying passengers from Hamburg to Lisbon in five or six days, the first class fare being 180 Mark. And the North German Lloyd Company in Bremen despatches a steamer to Lisbon once a month.

Messrs. Lamport $ Holt's steamers to Brazil leave Antwerp on the 1st, 8th, and 21st of every month, and occasionally touch at Madeira. Voyage about ten days. Fare, £12. Agents : Kennedy and Hunter, in Antwerp. 3. Steamers between .Lisbon and Madeira. There are two steamers from Lisbon to Madeira in the month, making the voyage under ordinary circumstances in from 50 to 60 hours They belong to different companies. (1.) The steamer of the Empreza National de Navegaceio para Africa leaves Lisbon on the 5th of the month and reaches Madeira on the 8th. Office of the Company in Lisbon, Eua Ferregial de Cima, No. 4. Agents in Madeira : Messrs. Blandy Brothers & Co., Eua da Alfandega. This steamer continues its voyage to the Portuguese possessions on the West Coast of Africa. It may be expected at Funchal between the 10th and the 15th of the month, on its return voyage to Lisbon.

(2.) The steamer of the Empreza Insulana de Navegacsio leaves Lisbon on the 20th of the month, and arrives at Funchal on the 22nd. Office of the Company in Lisbon : Caes de Sodre, No. 84. Agents at Funchal : Fidelio Branco & Filho, 61, Eua do Sabao. This steamer starts for the Azores on the 23rd of the month, and returns to Funchal, before leaving for Lisbon, on the 3rd or 4th of the next month. Fares : first class, by either line, £6. The railway journey from Paris to Madrid occupies 35 hours ; fare about, £8 8s. From Madrid to Lisbon is a journey of 30 hours; fare, about £3 16s. 4. Steamers between Madeira and tbe Canaries. — The steamers of both the Liverpool lines call at Santa Cruz in Teneriffe. First class fare from Madeira, £3. The Forwood steamers, already mentioned, proceed from Ma deira to the Canaries touching at the island of Palma, at Orotava, OUTFIT.

XV and Santa Cruz in Teneriffe, at Las Palmas in Grand Canary, and at Lanzarote before returning to Madeira. Passengers are taken for the round of eight or ten days at a fare of £10. Between Santa Cruz (Teneriffe) and Cadiz there is a Spanish line of steamers ; and between Santa Cruz and Marseilles a French line, the steamers of which touch at many places on the North African coast before going to Gibraltar. 5. Outfit. Such clothes as are worn in England during the spring will serve very well through the cold season in Madeira. A good supply of flannel under-clothing should not be forgotten. If the visitor intends to stay on the island through the summer then lighter clothing will be necessary ; washing dresses for ladies, and some light woollen ones, shady hats, a large umbrella, and sun shades.

Not much finery in the way of evening dresses need be taken. As there are shops where drapery and hosiery are to be had, any deficiences can be easily supplied, but it must be remem bered that silk articles of all kinds are much dearer than in Eng land, and there is little choice either in these or in gloves. Clothing obtained from England afterwards is subject to very heavy duties at the Custom-house ; it will therefore be better to err on the side of too much than of too little. If housekeeping is contemplated, plate and house-linen should be taken. (See under Custom-house.) Persons proceeding direct to Madeira need not trouble themselves to obtain passports. No difficulty will be experienced on landing without one, but it is desirable to take one or two letters of introduction to residents at Funchal. 6.

Money. — English gold circulates for its full value at Funchal, and it will be well for persons going there to take a supply sufficient to serve them for at least the early part of their sojourn. They can afterwards draw bills or pass cheques through the bankers, or merchants, who will usually pay the full ex change value. The silver in circulation is entirely Portuguese, and English coins will only be taken at a loss. In Appendix A will be found a table of Portuguese coins and their equivalents in English money. Sect. IL— At Madeira. 7. Quarantine.— In case the port whence the steamer came shall have been declared a suspected one at a time when a con tagious epidemic is prevalent in some part of Europe, passengers CUSTOM HOUSE. for Madeira will have to perform quarantine at the Lazaretto, a new building erected for the purpose about balf-a-mile to tbe east of the town. 8. landing.— There are no facilities for landing either pas sengers or goods at Funchal.

Landing must be effected in boats, of which an ample supply reaches the steamer on her arrival. If the water is rough passengers are taken to the steps at the Pon tinha, but at ordinary times to the beach. There is no established tariff for the boatman, as there ought to be, but the usual payment for landing persons without luggage is Is. each. When strangers have made up their minds as to their hotel, they should put themselves and their baggage under the charge of the manager of the house, who comes on board for the purpose of assisting passengers, and then they will be saved further trouble. He will also id in passing their chattels through the Custom House. 9. Custom House. — The luggage is taken there as soon as it reaches the shore, and examined at once. The charges are not heavy. Wearing apparel and bed and table linen which have been in use pass free of duty.

Upon silk or woollen goods not made up, a heavy duty will be charged, as well as upon any unreason able number of bonnets, dresses, or parasols which may be found. Fifty grammas (about 1} oz.) of tobacco pass free ; two kilos (about 4 lbs.) are permitted to enter on payment of duty, but more than this quantity will be forfeited and a heavy penalty exacted. Plate, plated articles, furniture, saddles, and musical instruments are admitted duty free upon depositing a sum of money to be returned in case of re-shipment, or on payment of the duties within eighteen months. So heavy is tbe duty assessed upon clothes and some other articles arriving in parcels, that persons sometimes prefer to send them back to England rather than pay it. A very unreasonable and troublesome regulation as to plate and plated articles has been lately made.

It has hitherto been the custom to repay the sum deposited as caution money, when the owner, at the time of leaving the island, delivered up his plate to an official in order to be weighed and identified. The official being satisfied as to that point, the plate was sealed up in its box and restored to the owner on board the vessel, when the transac tion came to a close. But now the authorities refuse to refund the money until the plate has passed through the English Custom House, where it must be weighed in the presence of the Portu- HOTELS. XVII guese Consul, who will, on payment of his fees, issue a certificate, which must be sent to Madeira before the money will be handed over to some one on the spot. All this involves unnecessary trouble and expense. Ticket of Residence. — The police authorities require every stranger to obtain a ticket of residence within 48 hours of landing.

This can be obtained for him by the manager of the hotel at which he stays. 10. Hotels. — Funchal is well provided with comfortable hotels for the reception of invalids and other visitors. Some are in the town, others in the immediate neighbourhood, so that there is considerable choice as to position. (See the Plan of the town, on which the hotels are marked.) The Santa Clara Hotel is the largest. It is the Braganza of Funchal, standing on a rise where the windows overlook the town and bay. It belongs to Mr. William Beid, who, by the management of his hotels through a long series of years has established a good reputation in this line of business. The charges for one person for the month of four weeks are from 60 dollars (£13. 6s. 8d.) upwards, according to the room. They cover the use of the public rooms in tbe house, hghts, attendance, in fact everything except wine, spirits, and malt liquor.

The meals are : early tea or coffee at 7 ; breakfast at 9 ; luncheon at 1 ; afternoon tea at 4-30, and dinner at 7. Suites of rooms can be engaged and meals can be taken in private by arrangement. The Carmo Hotel, formerly Miles', but now in the hands of Mr. William Beid.junior, stands in the town, on the east side, and has an attractive garden with a billiard room. The charges vary from 50 to 80 dollars per month, according to the room. The meals are the same as before. The Royal Edinburgh Hotel, near the new Public Gardens and the sea, is in the hands of Mr. Eeid, senior. The charges begin at 50 dollars for the month of four weeks. This was Mr. Beid's original house. The German Hotel, also belonging to Mr. Beid, is under the management of Snr. Francisco Nunes, who speaks German. It stands in a garden away from the sea, in the Bua das Hortas.

The charges range from 50 to 80 dollars for each person for the month, according to the room. The meals are : breakfast at 9 ; table d'hote at 2 ; and supper at 7, with soup or tea in the inter vals, if desired. h FUENISHED HOUSES. XVIII On the approach of the warm season Mr. Beid is accustomed to hire a quinta up the hill, for the reception of persons desirous of remaining on the island during the summer. (See end of Ch. XVIII.) Falkner's Private Hotel is near the Empress's Hospital, on the west side of the town. Terms for four weeks, from £10 upwards, including everything except wines. Charge for servants, £7. Jones' Private Family Hotel is a well managed establishment at a house with a large garden, near the New Boad, more than a mile to the west of the town. Terms from ten to eighteen guineas for four weeks.

There is a public drawing room, and private sitting rooms can be bad if required. Hotel Central, No. 20, Entrada da Cidade. Coelho & Carvalho, proprietors. A second class hotel, with a restaurant ; besides which there are several other Portuguese hotels. There are one or two English private houses where boarders are received and comfortably provided for. These may be easily found upon making enquiry. 11. Furnished Houses. — The neighbourhood of the town abounds with furnished houses (here called Quintas), with gardens attached, which can be hired by families who prefer an establish ment of their own to residence in an hotel. They are not, how ever, let by the month, unless the season has far advanced. All quintas that come within the limits of the engraved Plan of Funchal are numbered thereon, and those usually let to strangers are marked in the list with an asterisk.

(See the Plan and list at the end of the Introduction.) In hiring a furnished quinta, a written agreement should be made with the landlord, specifying the terms of engagement, and he should undertake to satisfy all taxes that may become payable in respect of it during the tenancy. The right of occupying the house to the end of June should be reserved to the tenant. One half the rental is usually paid on taking possession, and the other moiety at the expiration of three months. The inventory of the furniture should be carefully examined, and any required additions mentioned before concluding the agreement. Two blankets and one counterpane are furnished to each bed ; but all bed and table linen, towels, and plate of every description, must be provided by the occupants. These houses can be hired for the whole year for very little more than the winter's rent.

At a time of continued wet weather, when the atmosphere is almost saturated with moisture and everything feels damp to the touch, a fire HOUSEKEEPING. XIX is frequently desirable for invalids. Before taking a house it should be ascertained that the sitting room contains the needful stove or fire-place. A good filter should also be sup plied. The landlord usually claims a right to the produce of the garden, unless excluded by special stipulation. Some of the hotel keepers will occasionally make an arrangement with strangers hiring houses to supply them, at a given rate per month, with board, servants, linen, &c, and they are thus saved a great deal of trouble which would otherwise be cast upon them in under taking the charge of a house in a foreign country. Housekeeping, 12. Servants are the main difficulty in the way of persons who undertake housekeeping in Madeira, for it is not always easy to meet with men possessing the qualifications of honesty, sobriety, and a little knowledge of English.