Across Central America

Preface

. N" the following pages I wish to give the reader an insight to a country not often visited by travellers, and which on that account may perhaps afford some interest. I arrived at the port of San Jose de Guatemala from San Francisco in October, 1875, proceeded to the city of Guatemala, and after some interesting trips, east and west, continued my journey northward. A good road took me as far as Coban in Alta Vera Paz, then by an Indian path over the mountain ranges I reached the Rio de la Pasion, which enabled me by canoe to land within a few leagues of what has been called "the mysterious Lake of Peten." From Peten a journey of six davs through the forest brought me to the village of Tenosique, situated on the Rio de la Pasion, which here assumes the name of Usumacinta ; thence by canoe to the island of Carmen in the Gulf of Mexico.

Preface. IV Of the wonderful ruins — evidences of ancient Indian civilization — which are so profusely scattered over this part of the continent I visited Quiche, Copan, and Palenque. These have been so ably dealt with both by pen and pencil by historians and explorers, that I have only ventured to give a general idea of them for the information of those who have not read the important works on Central America. If my readers only know as little of the subjects of this volume before taking it up as I did before I started on my journey, I trust they will in some measure be repaid by its perusal. J. W. B. W CONTENTS.

Chapter I. Pacific

PORTS— MAZATLAN— PRONUNCIADOS— BRIGANDS— JESUIT INFLUENCE — ACAPULCO— HARBOUR SCENES— A LAZY TOWN — A MEXICAN FORT — COAST RANGE — VOLCANOES— PACIFIC GALES — SAN JOSE AND GUATEMALA — CUSTOM HOUSE — PAINFUL INTEREST — DEPARTURE .... . . 1

Chapter II. En Route To The

CAPITAL— SCENERY — GAZZA LADRA — BREAKFAST — OX-TEAMS — NATIVE PLOUGH — ESCUINTLA — CHANGE OF SCENE — A MACHETE — FALLS OF SAN PEDRO MARTIR — AMATITLAN — NOPAL PLANTATIONS — COCHINEAL — REFRESHMENT — LAKE OF AMATITLAN — HOT SPRINGS — ASCENT — PLAIN OF GUATEMALA — — COURTESY — ARRIVAL IN CITY . . . .10 Contents. VI

Chapter III

A MARKET SCENE — FRUITS AND VEGETABLES — A GENEROUS VENDOR — DRESS — A SUPERSTITION — NOON — BEGGARS — THE PLAZA — A USEFUL CLOCK — CATHEDRAL — FOUNTAIN — UNDER THE COLONNADES — MOSAIC — BATHING — AN ILLUSTRIOUS EXAM- PLE — CLIMATE — ASPECT OF CITY — INDIAN PORTERS — BUSI- NESS-HOUSES — DINNER-HOUR — VIEW FROM THE CARMEN 20 HILL

Chapter IV. Feast Days

— LE JOUR DES MORTS — ENTRANCE TO CEMETERY — THE INTERIOR — A CONTRAST — PICKPOCKETS— EARLY HOURS — HOSPITALITY — SOCIETY — PRESIDENT BARRIOS — PRIESTS AND NUNS — EXAMINATION — PRESIDENTIAL CAPACITY — GOVERNMENT — IMPROVEMENTS — A NEW ROAD — PUBLIC INSTITUTIONS — THE THEATRE — A COINCIDENCE — PROGRESS — AMUSEMENTS — PICNICS — START FOR THE COAST . . . . .31

Chapter V. Indian Mounds

— AQUEDUCT — INDIANS GOING TO MARKET — MIXCO— COMPOSITION OF AN AVERAGE VILLAGE — BARRANCAS — SANTA MARIA EARTHQUAKE— CATTLE FAIR— CHIMALTENANGO— LOOKING BACK — TEMPERATE ZONE — A FLOUR MILL — TECPAN — CHURCH — INDIANS — GOITRE — INTERIOR OF CHURCH — MIRACLE STONE — IXINCHE— ASCENT TO LOS ALTOS — ATITLAN — A WEIRD SCENE — A MARIMBA — RAINSTORM — ENCUENTROS — MOUNTAIN VIEWS — SANTO TOMAS — RELIGIOUS FESTIVAL — A FRUGAL MEAL — SANTA CRUZ DEL QUICHE — THE CONVENT — HOSPITALITY— A NIGHT'S REST . . . . . . .43 Contents. VII

Chapter VI. Ruins Of Quiche

— IDOLS — THOUGHTS — ALPINE SCENERY — TOTO- NICAPAN— INDIANS OF LOS ALTOS — CAPTURE OF TOTONICAPAN — AN "ON DIT" — STRANGE ASPECT OF COUNTRY — WEALTHY INDIANS— QUEZALTENANGO— ITS VOLCANOES — PLAZA — ANCIENT DIET — CATHEDRAL — DEATH OF FLORES — A CENTRAL AMERICAN DRAWING-ROOM— A NEW ROAD — ALMOLONGA— HOT SPRINGS — POTTERY MANUFACTORY — INDIAN SUPERSTITIONS — AN INDIAN GOVERNOR — ASCENT OF VOLCANO OF QUEZALTENANGO . 58

Chapter VII

A MUD ROAD — MULES — BAD LANGUAGE — CHANGE OF VEGETATION —TREE FERNS— VIEW OF COAST— BIRDS— ARISTOLOCHIA — A FINCA — COFFEE ESTATES IN GUATEMALA — ADVANTAGES AND DISADVANTAGES — IDEAS ON SELLING AND BUYING PLANTATIONS — DESCRIPTION OF COFFEE RAISING— AVERAGE PRODUCTION — PROCESS OF PREPARING THE BERRY— LABOUR SYSTEM — COFFEL' CULTURE OF SERVICE TO THE COUNTRY — ESTIMATE OF COST AND PRODUCTION OF A NEW COFFEE PLANTATION . 71

Chapter VIII

A FINCA— COFFEE TREE — ANTS— HAMMOCK BRIDGE— GRAVE INDIANS — COSTA CUCA AND COSTA GRANDE— RETALULEN — AN INN — A FOREST KING — SAPOTE TREE — BIRDS — BUTTERFLIES — INDIAN WOMEN — A SPORTSMAN— PARROTS — CHITALON— VOL- CANOES — WASHERWOMEN — A KNOWING MULE — WIFE BEATING — PACING — COCOA PLANTATION — VAMPYRES— GOITRES — AN ANI- MATED FLOWER-BED— CUESTA D'ATITLAN — ASCENT — VIEW — A CURIOUS TREE— INDIAN SUPERSTITION — CABILDS— LIGHTNING EFFECTS ........ Contents, VIII

Chapter IX. Lake Of

ATITLAN— INDIAN LEGENDS — CERRO DE ORO— GEM OF ATITLAN — CUESTA — NORVAL — VIEW OF LAKE — GODINES — NAMES IN GUATEMALA — STEEP PRECIPICE — EXCHANGE OF CIVI- LITIES — ASCENT TO TABLE LAND — PATZUN — FEAST DAY — TO ANTIGUA — ACCOUNT OF THE DESTRUCTION OF THE TWO OLD 102 CAPITALS — ENTRANCE TO CITY

Chapter X

A SANATORIUM — A RUINED TEMPLE — THE PLAZA— SANTA MARIA — CONVENT QUARTERS — A CONCERT — MIDNIGHT — START FOR VOLCANO— A SHORT CUT— HEIGHTS OF VOLCANOES — A NAP IN THE CRATER — INSCRIPTIONS — VIEW FROM SUMMIT — MANO DEL MICO — FLOR DE MADERA— RARE PHEASANT — DRUNKEN INDIANS — AZTEC LAW — RETURN TO GUATEMALA . . . 113

CHAPTER XL POT-POURRI

— VOLCANIC FIRE — A STRANGE THEORY — SUN'S RAYS — NACIMIENTO — FEAST OF GUADALUPE — ITS ORIGIN — JOCOTE- NANGO — SAN DOMINGO — ZOPILOTE — STARLING — TOUCANS — A MESON — EL CARABAN — WHO GOES THERE ? — WAR— PASSPORTS — START FOR COPAN AND ESQUIPULAS .... 126

Chapter XII

A PILGRIMAGE— A BLACK SAINT — CERRO REDONDO — PASCUAL — ARPINO — A TORTILLA— THE ROAD-RUNNER — SWALLOW-TAILED FLY-CATCHER — CUAJINIQUILAPA — ESCLAVOS — AZAGUALPA— JU- TIAPA — ORGAN-CACTUS — AGUA BLANCA— SAN ANTONIO — VOLCANO OF SUCHITAN— SANTA CATARINA— EL RIO— AMATILLO— SILVER MINES OF ALOTEPEQUE ..... Contents. IX

Chapter XIII. Mountain Scenery

— PILGRIMS' GRAVES— PIEDRAS GORDAS — MERINO SHEEP — A RESTAURANT— A DELIGHTFUL VALLEY — A MUD HUT — THE CROSS— A NIGHT WITH THE PILGRIMS — TIL- LANDSIA — FIRST VIEW OF ESQUIPULAS — A DOUANE— THE CALLE REAL — BRIDGE AND STONE FIGURES — A FAIR — CHURCH OF ESQUIPULAS — THE BLACK CHRIST— STRANGE OFFERINGS — LAST VIEW OF ESQUIPULAS ...... 161

Chapter XIV. Piedra De Amolar

— JUPILINGO — SAN JOSE — ORIOLES — OSTINOPS MONTEZUMA — TETERIA VIRIDIS — SWAN ORCHID — COPAN RIVER ' — DON PEDRO ARELLANOS — THE MYSTERY OF COPAN — THE IDOLS — HIEROGLYPHICS — CEIBAS — ANCIENT SEPULCHRE — EL CERRO DE LAS VENTANAS — CARVED ALTAR — HUMAN SACRIFICE — STONE HAMMOCK — GARRAPATAS— NIGUAS . . . 172

Chapter XV. Hacienda

— TIERRA CALIENTE — PASCUAL IN DIFFICULTIES — AZTEC MYTHOLOGY— HAT-BRUSH PLANT— JOCOTAN— SAN JUAN ERMITA — PLAIN OF CHIQUIMULA — RUINED CHURCHES — CHIQUI- MULA — VISIT TO THE JEFE POLITICO — GIOTE — CHIMALAPA — SAN AGOSTIN — GUASTATOYA— MOTMOTS — A SPANISH DISH — LAGUNA — EL PUENTE — PONTE AGUELA — SAN JOSE — A SLIPPERY DESCENT — A CATARACT — ORIOLES AND THEIR NESTS — PLAIN OF GUATEMALA ....... 186

Chapter XVI. Military Service

— STRENGTH OF ARMY — EQUIPMENT — FOREIGN OFFICERS — EL POLITECNICO — CONGRESS — A FEDERAL UNION — JUSTICE — FALSE WITNESSES — JUSTICE IN SALVADOR — RIGHTS OF FOREIGNERS — INHABITANTS OF CENTRAL AMERICA — A PROBABLE FUTURE — PETEN AN UNKNOWN LAND — DEPARTURE FROM THE CITY. ...... Contents. X

Chapter XVII. Spiritual

RELATIONS— CARRIZAL— VUELTA GRANDE— THE RIVER MOTAGNA — HOT SPRINGS— LLANO GRANDE— A SUGAR PLANTA- TION — MOUNTAINS OF CHOACUS— AN INVALID CARRIAGE — SAN GERONIMO— SALAMA — FLOWERING YUCCAS — MOUNTAINS OF QUILILA — SANTA ROSA — VALLEY OF PURULA — CABILDO . 214

Chapter XVIII. Grotto Of Purula

— STALAGMITES — SANTA CRUZ — VALLEY OF COBAN— CAJABON RIVER — CURASSOWS — PACAYA — THE QUESAL — NEST OF TROGON — SAN CRISTOVAL — CROSSES IN WOODS — A " MILPA" — INDIAN LABOUR — MOZOS — COBAN COFFEE — PASION RIVER — DEPARTURE OF MOZOS— AN ANCIENT CITY UNDIS- COVERED ........ 226

Chapter XIX. Liquid Amber Trees

— SAN PEDRO CARCHAH — BARRICADES — A CENSER — ARRIVAL OF MOZOS — EUPHORBIA — A BEAUTIFUL RIVER— LA TINTA — MATCHES — ACCIDENT TO MULE — NIGHT SOUNDS — A DESCENT — STRELITZIA REGINA — ANTHURIUM — BROAD LEAFED PLANTS — ESPIRITU SANTO — THE CABILDO . . 244

Chapter XX

A VILLAGE SCHOOL— STRANGE NOCTURNAL VISITORS —A SWAMP — FOREST PLEASURES — CANDELARIA — A DESERTER — INDIAN VOICES — A NIGHT JAR — CHACHAS — INDIAN POST-MAN — A RIVER CAVERN — LOST IN THE FOREST — SAN DOMINGO — PALM GROVES — SAN ANTONIO — INDIAN FREEMASONRY — TALPEMIX— CONCUEN — DON RAMON ........ Contents. XI

Chapter XXI. El Rio De La Pasion

— DON CARLOS — WILD COCOA — TREES— DYE WOODS — BIRDS — A CANOE — START FOR EL PASO — IGUANAS — A USEFUL FIRE-ARM — JAGUAR— CURASSOW— HANGING NESTS — FISHING BY TORCHLIGHT — SCORPION AND COCKCHAFER — INDIAN ENCAMPMENT — LACANDONES — ARRIVAL AT EL PASO DE SACLUK ........ 271

Chapter XXII. Mahogany

CUTTERS— RAINY NIGHT— A TAPIR— A FEARFUL SPEC- TACLE — PASO NUEVO — TOUCAN — A BEAUTIFUL PIGEON — THE SAVANNAS — ARRIVAL AT SACLUK — NARANJA COTTAGE— SACLUK — OCCUPATION — NIGHT— EL REY ZOPILOTE — EN ROUTE TO FLORES A SAVANNA VILLAGE — SAN BENITO — PETEN-ITZA— CONQUEST OF THE ITZACS. ....... 282

Chapter XXIII. Lake Of Peten

— FLORES — ISOLATION— GLAZED POTTERY— DRESS — GEOGRAPHICAL KNOWLEDGE — CAVE OF JOBITZINAL — INTERIOR OF CAVE — A CURIOUS BIRD — SHELLS — CORTES' HORSE — PETEN BY MOONLIGHT— RUINS OF TICKAL — RETURN TO SACLUK— HIERO- GLYPHICS — DESERTED CITIES ..... 293

Chapter XXIV. Communication With Flores

— SAVANA — SAN PABLO — SHEDS FOR TRAVELLERS — SAN DIEGO —NEST OF PAVO — BIRD CRY — MAHO- GANY TREE — RONDELETTA — PALMETTO — GANAPATAS — THE PETEN TURKEY — JAGUAE STORIES — ENTER MEXICO — NO WATER — STORM IN FOREST — RIVER SAJAB — LAKE COPAR — HOLY GHOST ORCHID —ARRIVAL AT TENOSIQUE ..... Contents. XII

Chapter XXV. The Usumacinta

— TENOSIQUE — PRETENSIONS — SOCIETY — ADVAN- TAGE OF POVERTY OVER RICHES — SPITE — TO-MORROW — A TWIST- ING STREAM — ANECDOTE OF SPANISH INDOLENCE — DEPARTURE FROM TENOSIQUE — PHILODENDRONS — CROSSING THE RIVER — RARE SWALLOWS — RIVER CHACAMAS — LOST IN THE PRAIRIE — A WET NIGHT — A LAKE SCENE — ARRIVAL AT MONTECRISTO . 313

Chapter XXVI. To-morrow

— MONTE CRISTO — START FOR PALENQUE — HORSE-FLIES — SAN MIGUEL — DON DAVID — CUEVA DE DON JUAN — GHOST STORIES— SANTO DOMINGO DEL PALENQUE — START FOR RUINS — THICK FOREST — THE PALACE — ANCIENT NAME OF PALENQUE — GENERAL ASPECT — ANCIENT INHABITANTS — HIGH TOWER — RELICS — CROSSES— PYRAMIDS — EXTENT OF RUINS . . 325

Chapter XXVII. Banks Of The Usumacinta

— INGA PODS — LAGARTOS — RIO CHICO — LAS PLAYAS— ROUTE TO PALENQUE — SAN GERONIMO — GUACO — DYE WOODS — PALIZADO — MODERN CIVILIZATION — TOWN LIMITS — LOGWOOD — ON THE RIVER — LAS CRUCES — BOCA CHICA — LAGUNA DE TERMINOS . . - . . 337

Chapter XXVIII. Island Of Carmen

— ITS DISCOVERY — DEPARTMENT OF CARMEN — TOWN — LIGHTHOUSE — MALINCHE — TRAFFIC BY WATER — SHIP- PING—A TRAVELLING COMPANION — SOCIETY— WAITING FOR A BREEZE — A STAB IN THE DARK — LEAVE CARMEN — FRONTERA — A COLONY OF ALLIGATORS — THE MANATEE — THE BAR— WRECKERS — AT SEA .......

Chapter I. Pacific

PORTS— MAZATLAN — PRONUNCIADOS— BRIGANDS — JESUIT INFLUENCE — ACAPULCO— HARBOUR SCENES — A LAZY TOWN — A MEXICAN FORT— COAST RANGE — VOLCANOES— PACIFIC GALES — SAN JOSE AND GUATEMALA — CUSTOM HOUSE — PAINFUL INTEREST — DEPARTURE. RIGHT cheery weather and light breezes accompanied us as we sped along in one of the Pacific mail steamers bound south from San Francisco. Most of the passengers were for Panama, but a few, chiefly Mexicans, disembarked at each of the little ports at which we touched. Pretty enough at a distance were the villages belonging to these ports. Mazatlan, San Bias, and Manzanilla; but on closer acquaintance the poverty-stricken aspect of the streets and houses, which is so characteristic of Spanish- American towns, gave a tinge of gloom to the other wise bright scene. B Mazatlan has the reputation of enjoying a good climate during the winter months for those troubled with lung disease ; but much of the benefit derived therefrom must be counteracted by the depression caused by the unkempt streets and plaza, and last but not least, by the bad food which has rendered Mazatlan a by-word even in that country where good living is not a strong point.

Perhaps when we were there, much of the dullness was to be ascribed to the near approach of the " pro nunciados," as of course Mexico was in a state of rebellion — one of those chronic affairs which form the principal amusement in the Spanish American Re publics — and the inhabitants of Mazatlan, in great fear, were shipping off all their money and valuables to safer quarters. Two men-of-war, which the Mexican Government in a fit of extraordinary gene rosity had recently purchased from England, were daily expected, but it was a question whether they would not prove a curse instead of a blessing, as it was generally thought that the rebels would seize them at the first opportunity. How suggestive of Mexico is that one word — rebel ! Ever since she stepped forth into the family of independent nations, revolutions, rebellions, and assas sinations have swept over the land, destroying her wealth, paralyzing her industry, and reducing her population.

Throughout the country the laziest and most un principled join leaders who, in the name of politics, Banditti. 3 unite to plunder their neighbours, " pronounce" against the government, and under the name of war or " pro nunciamentos" become a terror to the country as great as that inspired by the brigands. Of the latter, strange stories were rife, and when we arrived at Acapulco, so uninviting were the reports that the male members of a Spanish family, who had intended to proceed from that port overland to the city of Mexico to look after their property, were so discouraged that they preferred to continue their journey by Panama. On the road to the capital these bandits had actually posted placards to the effect that no one was to travel with less than twenty dollars under pain of death, and there is no doubt that the threat was not an idle one.

It is only fair to the Government to say that it was taking strong measures to put down the banditti. A band of fifty under the leadership of a notorious villain, named Ruiz, had lately been almost totally destroyed, and the celebrated Rosalio Mendez had been taken and shot. The chief delight of this ruffian had been to flay the soles of the feet of his prisoners, and then drive them before him over the flinty road. The death of this merciless bandit caused more re joicing in Mexico than that of all the other brigands put together. At San Juanico a strong force of brigands had per petrated some dreadful crimes, amid enthusiastic cries of " Long live the Sisters of Charity." A Paulist B priest who was supposed to be implicated in the affair was arrested, but on account of want of evidence was allowed to leave the country.

It had been generally supposed that friars, monks, and Jesuits were things of the past ; but after the expulsion of the Sisters of Charity and the uprising of the Church party, many of them who were hidden away came boldly to the front. These men work strenuously to arouse the lower classes against the Liberal Administration, and by spreading pernicious doctrines among their blind adherents sow the seeds of constant strife and civil war. The enmity between the religious and political elements is manifested by the bitter and relentless attacks upon the Government by the Church papers, whilst those of the administration in their turn de nounce by name the priests and bishops who are endeavouring to overthrow the established order of things by sword and flame. The Church party in variably place themselves in opposition to whatever government is in power, in order thereby to create a revolution, and thus endeavour to prove that liberal institutions are a failure and that a strong centralized power, backed by the mitre and the musket, can alone prevent Civil wars.

That the views of the Government were correct was demonstrated by the terrible massacre in the church of Acapulco, at the instigation of a Jesuit bishop, only a few weeks before our arrival. The harbour of Acapulco is very picturesque ; en- Acapulco. 5 tirely land-locked, and shut out from the sea by green slopes and wooded islands. The small town, with its white houses and thatched roofs, is effectively finished off at one end by groups of palm trees, and at the other by an old fort. At some distance behind, a low range of hills closes in the view. The rain which occasionally falls in its purple gorges looks like a coloured mist when the sun shines on it, and as the shades melt and blend into one another the varied back ground lights up the scene with marvellous effect. Canoes glide over the water, freighted with eggs, shells, limes, pine-apples, hammocks, and curious little pieces of pottery of quaint forms.

Birds and squirrels and various other objects of beautiful form and colour, so often met with in tropical ports to entice the voyager, were not wanting, and one wtetched parrot that had been taught to say " good morning" in English, in a moment of excitement at having its tail pulled by a small monkey, fluttered off its perch, fell into the water, and before its owner could rescue it, was seized by a shark, between whose formidable jaws it disappeared, screaming its familiar salutation as an appropriate farewell. On landing, the charm of the scene vanished. The town was found to consist only of a few rag-littered lanes bordered with low houses, whose cracked white walls reflected the hot glare of the sun, and under whose piazzas were strown the most untempting articles for sale. Through the open doorways, the monotonous swing of hammocks showed us that most of the population were occupied in their usual business, and the only signs of life were the hideous turkey buzzards, Central American policemen, as they are called, and even they seemed impregnated with the atmosphere of laziness, and with a slight jerk of the head would merely hop on one side at our ap proach.

After crossing a gully through which a supply of water was conveyed to the town, but which at the time was almost dry, and amongst whose slimy stones pigs and buzzards were disputing for old boots and other delicacies of a like sort, we paid a visit to the fort. A grove of fine old trees led up to it, and after a short colloquy with the officer commanding the guard, who was at first evidently afraid that we had come to take possession of the place — there were four of us — or at least to discover its strength and spy out its weakness, we were permitted to enter. The same air of repose pervaded the inside of the fort as we had observed on the outside. Sleeping forms were lying in the small casemated rooms. A cow, which had inadvertently strayed in through the neglected gateway, was endeavouring to obtain a little nourishment from the herb-grown wail, and a sentry half asleep, with a cigarette in his mouth, was stretched at full length on the dilapidated stone steps leading to the ramparts.

Lazily rising when he saw us, this watchful soldier went to fetch his musket, which was leaning against the wall at some distance off, and offered to accompany Series of Volcanoes. 7 us ; but we declined his obliging offer, and he grate fully resumed his recumbent position. Negligence and decay still prevailed everywhere, guns which should have occupied places on the ram parts had fallen into the surrounding ditch, and lay half buried in weeds and undergrowth. In many places the stone masonry had given way, and what might have been a position of some advantage and considerable strength, was now simply a ridiculous spectacle of Mexican inefficiency. When we left the fort the sentry was sound asleep on the steps, and as the one sergeant who had greeted us on our arrival was nowhere to be seen, we presumed that he also had fallen a victim to the general drow siness.

The coast range after leaving Acapulco presented a softer outline and looked green and fertile to us, ac customed as we had been of late to the rugged bare mountain chain which, though doubtless full of mineral wealth, bore a wild and dreary aspect. On the follow ing day we sighted the first of that wonderful series of volcanoes whose system is developed in its grandest form in Guatemala, and on the morning of the twelfth day out from San Francisco, we rode at anchor a long way from shore in the little surf port of San Jose. Three great volcanoes, Agua, Fuego, and Pacaya, raise their huge forms seventy miles or so inland bar ring the way to the city of Guatemala, which lies on the other side. " Mountains that like giants stand, To sentinel enchanted land." Between us and them was a flat stretch of country covered with a dense tropical growth of trees and shrubs.

This part of the Pacific coast is visited by strong gales at certain seasons ; between September 20th and October the " cordonazo," — equinoctial — blows ; in the rainy season from June to September the " chu basco" sometimes rages with fury, and at odd intervals is. felt the " chiflon jugadu," which is merely a puff, but frequently strong enough to capsize a badly balanced vessel. We found it no easy matter to land on the jetty as a heavy swell was running, and it required some cau tion to approach and clamber up the narrow rope ladder, which at one moment was swinging above the water, and the next was immersed in it to its highest step. However, the feat was accomplished, and we were soon undergoing as severe an inspection of our baggage at the custom-house as if we were in some frontier station in Germany.

A more uninviting-looking spot than San Jose can not well be imagined ; a few tumble-down houses, in -which live the limited number of officials who are obliged to pass their time here, face the sea ; behind them is a swamp redolent of malaria, and abounding in mosquitoes, while a little farther on are the misera ble huts of the native village. Intensely hot and very unhealthy, the place possesses no interest except the San Jose. 9 painful one of being the spot where a drunken com mandante had the audacity to imprison and flog a British Consul a few years ago. Fortunately we had not to stop long at it, as my only companion, who was on his way to the city of Guatemala on business, had previously given notice of his expected arrival, and a comfortable waggon drawn by four mules was ready to proceed with us on our journey.

We were soon splashing through the swamp, and after passing the green plaza, where partial atonement for the afore-mentioned insult had been made by military salutation of the English flag, we quickly lost sight of the melancholy village in a cloud of dust.

Chapter II En Route To The

CAPITAL— SCENERY — GAZZA LADRA — BREAKFAST — OX-TEAMS — NATIVE PLOUGH— ESCUINTLA— CHANGE OF SCENE — A MACHETE — FALLS OF SAN PEDRO MARTIR — AMATITLAN — NOPAL PLANTATIONS— COCHINEAL — REFRESHMENT — LAKE OF AMATITLAN — HOT SPRINGS — ASCENT — PLAIN OF GUATEMALA — — COURTESY — ARRIVAL IN CITY. T San Jose we had heard that an opera company, which the Government had engaged at an expense of about fortv thousand dollars, was daily expected. How we wished that the money had been expended in improving the road on which we were travelling ! At one moment our waggon was up to the axle-tree in deep ruts, at the next jolting over great rocks and stumps of trees. Still, in spite of heat, dust, and dis location, there was a great charm in the novelty of the scene, at least to me, but my companion had traversed the road before and consequently was not so alive to its attraction.

The country around San Jose was mere jungle, but bright creepers ran over the tangled undergrowth ; Staple Dishes. 11 here and there a gnarled ceiba stretched out its shady branches, laden with mosses and giant arums, and occasionally some gaycoloured bird darted rapidly from side to side. Clouds of butterflies hovered over the half dried-up bed of the stream that filtered slowly across the dusty road, and as they settled on its moist banks resembled clusters of flowers; all the butterflies in the country appeared to be visiting these watering places. A certain species of bird* appeared very glad to see us. One in particular was very sociable, flying after us from tree to tree, and looking very knowing with its pretty raised top-knot. In appearance, this bird is a sort of tropical magpie with light blue back and long tail-feathers of white and blue, a white breast and throat with black necklace.

It is one of the com monest birds in the country, and the people say that it is more addicted to stealing than they are themselves, a charge rather hard on the magpie, which in fact is a veritable " gazza ladra." Here and there an open thatched hut peeped out from a group of bananas and orange trees; picturesque enough by itself, but marred by the untidiness and unwashed appearance of its occupants. We stayed at one of these domiciles for luncheon, and were regaled with the staple dishes of the country — tortillas and frijoles ; the latter, merely cooked beans, were palatable, but the former, the maize-flour fritters, were, I thought, the most detestable things I had ever tasted. * Calocetta formosa. To show how use will accustom us to anything almost, I must mention that before I left Central America I quite enjoyed tortillas ; certainly there was often nothing else to eat, but I was surprised to find I really liked them.

Soon after leaving our resting place we met a num ber of ox teams, the express waggons of the country, wending their slow way to the coast ; each small covered cart drawn by two oxen, whose noses almost touched the ground, so heavily were they yoked. Something under a week is the usual time taken by these vehicles to accomplish the journey from the port to the city, a distance of barely thirty leagues, i.e., ninety miles. In Central America, distances are always mentioned in leagues, one of which averages about three miles, but it is no easy matter to find out from a native the exact distance to any place ; they have their short and their long league, which may vary from two to six or seven miles. They often measure by time only, and from that infer the space travelled over, so that distances greatly depend upon the qualities of the animal ridden or driven.

As we approached Escuintla, the half-way village where we were to pass the night, signs of civilization increased ; there were patches of sugar-cane, little gardens with a few vegetables, and an occasional shed by the road-side with fruit and balls of lime for sale. In one small clearing there was a man actually at work ploughing, and this is how he ploughed and the im- Escuintla. 13 plement he used. The curved branch of a tree, shod at the extreme point of the lower limb with a piece of iron and with a beam attached to the upright limb, formed the plough. To this beam two oxen were yoked, which the man directed with one hand by means of thongs attached to their horns, whilst with the other hand he guided the plough. And thus he scratched away at the ground, happy in the idea of owning an implement superior to the hoe and machete of his neighbour ; but never dreaming of economizing his resources by attending to the depth rather than to the extent of his furrows.

There is an old saying that "no farmer owns any deeper than he can plough." What a little property my friend must possess ! It was growing dark when we entered Escuintla, but there was sufficient light to show off the straggling street, with its rows of unpromising-looking houses and still more forbidding inn, through the gateway of which we drove into a small courtyard which did duty for stables. As the dining-room opened on to this court, or rather farm-yard, we did not linger long over the meal of strange meat and beans that was tardily prepared for us, but went out to inspect the village by moonlight. The appearance of the old church, almost roofless, with its rent walls, told us that we were in the land of earthquakes, and the apparent proximity of the volcanoes suggested a greater catastrophe even than that which had already occurred.