Summer Experiences of Rome, Perugia and Sienna in 1854; and sketches of the islands in the Bay of Naples. With illustrations

Front matter

PLATEI Jry(4t^t^a^ta^zA'7iu^n^< SUMMER EXPERIENCES OP EOME, PERUGIA, AND SIENA, IN 1854; AND Sluirljcs of % gslattbs in % gag of staples. WITH ILLUSTRATIONS. By MRS. J. E. WESTROPP. LONDON : WILLIAM SKEFPINGTON, 163 PICCADILLY. MDCCCLVI. PEEFACE. It may perhaps seem unnecessary to add another work on Italy, to the number of those already pubhshed. The authoress hopes, however, that upon perusal, her letters will not be found a repe tition of what has been written by others. During a residence in Italy of three years and a-half, she wrote constantly letters to her relations, and kept notes of all she saw. Upon her return to England, she was requested to publish, and has selected a period of four months in 1854, as that most likely to be of general interest. Few English visit the Eternal City in the summer; they are consequently unacquainted with what is then going on.

Tourists are usually too hurried to bestow much time upon Perugia and Siena, both of which are well worth long visits. PEEFACE. The authoress will be very glad if her account should induce any one, in search of a summer residence in Italy, to turn their attention to these two cities, which combine beauty of scenery, treasures of art and painting, with a cool temperature and economy. She mixed as much as possible with the people of the country, and sought information from them ; but having had no access to books, which might have enabled her to write a far more complete account of the early painters, she can merely offer the result of her own observations, made after careful study and all the inquiries in her power. At the request of several friends, an appendix, giving an account of Ischia and the Islands of the Bay of Naples, has been added. The illustrations are from the authoress' own sketches, lithographed by herself. London, Nov., 1856. CONTENTS.

Letter I

Letter II

Churohes in Rome — St. Agnese — St. Costanza — St. Lorenzo — St. Bibiana — St. Pudenziana — St. Praxedes — I Quattro Coronati — Vespers in the Sistine — Tapestry — Colosseum — Festival at the Trinity . . .11

Letter III

Festival of Corpus Domini — Processions at St. Peter's and St. John Lateran — Funeral of Cardinal Fornari . 24

Letter IV

Dies Iræ — Pope's Coronation — Festa of St. Luigi Gonzaga — Procession at St. Peter's — Italian Children — St. John Baptist's Day ....... 36

Letter V

Churches on the Aventine — St. Giovanni — St. Cesareo — St. Nereo e Acbilleo — St. Sisto— St. Prisca — St. Saba — St. Sabiua — St. Alessio — St. Maria del Priorato — St. Balbina — Baths of Caracalla — Forum Boarium — Roman Shops — Villa Volkouski . . . .47 VI CONTENTS.

Letter VI

Vespers on St. Peter's Eve — Illumination of St. Peter's — High Mass — The Grey Brother — The Girandola— Basilica of St. Paul — St. Maria in Via Lata — Crypt of St. Peter's — Monte Mario — Mamertine Prisons — St. Pietro in Vincoli — St. Pietro in Montorio . . 62

Letter VII

Villa Madama — Ponte Salara — Castel Giubilio — Cerbara — Campagna Scenery — Colosseum — St. John Chrysogonus — St. Maria del'Orto — St. Francesco k Ripa — St. Maria — St. Cosimato — St. Angelo in Pescheria — The Ghetto 83

Letter XVIII

■St. Agostino — Carmine — St. Quirico — Baptistery — St. Giorgio — St. Spirito — St. Maria dei Serviti — Porta Romana — Piazza del Campo — Palazzo Publico — Academy of the Fine Arts — St. Catharine — Oratories — Madonna di Fonte Giusta . . . .251

Letter XIX

Villa Life— Church of St. Pietro— St. Paolo— St. Lucia— Porta San Viene — St. Roch — Fonte Nuova — Porta Camullia — Lars Porsena's Tomb — Convents— Vintage — Conclusion . * . . . . . . 269

Appendix

.

Letter II

Ischia— Procida LIST OF PLATES. Page I. — Frontispiece. Church of St. Giovanni e Paolo and Via Scelerata, Rome. II. — Ruins of Cæsar's Palace, Rome ... 11 III. — Chapel or Si. John, at the Latin Gate, Rome 48 IV. — View trom St. Pietro in Vincoli's, Rome . 81 V. — Aqueduct in the Campagna, Rome . . 87 VI. — Civita Castellana, with Mont' Oreste . 106 YIL — Arco di Augusto, Perugia .... 120 VIII. — Temple of Minerva, Assisi .... 126 IX. — Porta Marzia, Perugia .... 177 X. — Abbey of La Magione ..... 196 XI. — Cathedral of Siena 246 XII. — Fonte Nuova, Siena EOME, PERUGIA, AND SIENA.

LETTER I.

Rome, June 4th, 1854. My dear Brother, — Most of the English have now left Eome ; and as you pity me for being obliged to stay here, instead of flying off to some cooler region, I am going to send you a series of letters, to prove how little I am to be pitied, and what great enjoyment I have here. Indeed, I think those who only visit Eome in the so-called season, little know how delightful an abode it is. Though the chmate is far better than England, still in winter there are very wet days, when it is difficult to walk out in the ill-paved muddy streets, and the carriages are in such demand that it is necessary to secure them beforehand, or pay exorbitant prices for theh services. Then when you E have had a " course " down to the Vatican, or some palace, you feel painfully the want of sun ; all looks so gloomy, so cheerless, so unlike what one expects in this bright land.

On clear frosty days the galleries are very cold, and when the "tramontana" blows, you are cut through and through, and glad to escape from the cold air. The Eoman lodgings also in winter are far from comfortable; the doors and windows do not shut properly, and admit currents of air; most of the chimneys smoke, and all the grates are set so far back, that the greatest part of the heat of the fire goes up the chim ney. The wood fires also give far less heat than our good English coal, and burn away so quickly that it is a constant occupation to prevent them from going out. In summer, however, all these minor miseries are at an end, and you thoroughly enjoy hfe. The sky is constantly of the deepest blue ; and the temperature at present is delightful. I am most comfortably settled with a nice Italian family ; the master of the house is steward to a nobleman, and very Uttle at home; for he has to take journeys to Orvieto, and various places in the states of the Church and Tuscany to look after his employer's estates.

The padrona is a most kind-hearted woman. She has a really honest English face with a bright beaming look ; combined with the stately figure of the Eoman matron, and the grace of manner in which the Italians very much surpass us. ROME, PERTJGIA, AND SIENA. She has four children. The eldest, Eomulus, is a very nice lad of fourteen ; he goes to a school for several hours a-day, where he learns accounts, Latin, and French, which he begins to speak very well, His appearance and manners are quite that of the little gen tleman, and he is most attentive to the Eng lish lady; always ready to take notes and messages out of school hours, and to accompany her when she wants a little page. The other two boys are younger. The " cria tura," or infant, is a little ghi of five months swaddled up like a mummy, which must be very uncomfortable to the poor child, but she is an excellent baby and never cries.

The other member of the household is the servant Lucia. She is an active, clean, good humoured girl of nineteen, who has been eight years in service. It is quite surprising to see the work this girl will accomplish. She is not very fond of dusting the sitting room, which all Italians think a very unne cessary thing ; but she will do this, or any thing else I bid her. On Sunday evenings Lucia dresses herself in her best — a coloured muslin dress, a fine white muslin apron trimmed with lace, and a gay silk handkerchief over her shoulders. Her hah is beautifully dressed ; a thick plait behind, and the front plaited, and rolled, on each cheek, into a small flat ring (something like an ammo nite) through which a gilt pin is stuck. A pair of handsome gold ear-rings and a neck lace of large coral beads complete her costume.

She takes the " criatura Helena" for an airing on the Pincio, returning before the " Ave Maria." All Italians are very careful not to be out at sunset : they often return out of doors afterwards; but they believe that for half an hour before, and after sunset, there is bad air, and that fevers are caught at that time. Tou will say that I have described the people of the house, but not the house itself. It is situated in the Fontanella Borghese, one of the best positions in Eome. It is a continuation of the Via Condotti, on the other side of the Corso, and is a great thoroughfare : the constant passing by is said to cause circulation of air and keep off fever, which is almost unknown in this street. I dwell on the first floor. I have a nice dining-room from which you pass into a pretty drawing-room elegantly furnished, which leads into a large and very comfort able bedroom with two small dressing closets attached.

Each of the rooms has two win dows looking into the street, so that it is a very cheerful situation. I am told it will be very hot, as the windows look due south, but I trust, with "Persiani," or outside shutters, to keep out the sun ; that I shall do very well, as heat does not disagree with me. The Italians generally are very early risers, but want of strength prevents my following their example, and I cannot be ready for my breakfast before half-past eight. Tea and coffee are prohibited by my Italian doctor, but I have a very good substitute for the latter in "cafe d' orzo." This is made of barley, which is roasted and ground, and then boiled hke regular coffee, and really has a very nice flavour when roasted properly. It is said to be very nutritious, and does not possess the heating and exciting properties of the foreign berry ; the price also is very moderate, fivepence for the pound of twelve ounces ; I think it would be a very good thing to introduce it among the poor in England.

The bread in Eome is usually bad, but there are two excellent bakers in the Via Babuino and Condotti, who make good leavened bread which is not sour. Butter is very good in winter, but not in summer, and substitutes are used for it. I often have dried fish for breakfast; the an chovies are very good and abundant, also the "saraci" resembling the herring, but it is necessary to boil them, they are so dry and salt. Lucia cooks my dinner at whatever hour I choose, generally about two o'clock ; and in the evening I have an egg with lemonade. Such is my general mode of proceeding. And now I will tell you what I have seen and done since this month began. On the first was a solemn service in the Sistine Chapel, for the soul of the late Pope, Gregory XVI. My kind friend Miss B came to me early ; we were both in black dresses, with lace veils instead of bonnets, and for two pauls (tenpence English money) a carriage took us down to the Vatican, a mile from my abode.

"We were very early, the Pope not entering till a quarter to eleven, and so had time to look well about us. Often as I have seen the Sistine Chapel, it never struck me so much before. When seen in winter without bright sun, it is very difficult to see clearly the frescoes, obscured, as they are by the smoke of candles : the shape too ofthe chapel, and the "tout ensemble," dis appoint one very much at first. This day, however, the sun shone brightly, and the grand old prophets and sibyls stood forth in majesty. The congregation was very small ; within the grating were some few Eomans, and several monks of religious orders, particularly Dominicans. In the ladies' department were only five besides our selves. The candles were yellow, the colour of mourning, and the twenty-four cardinals wore their mourning robes, purple or "colore di chiesa."

The officiating bishops wore rich robes of dark blue and gold. When the Pope had taken his seat the mass for the dead began. Having my book I followed it all quite well. By far the most striking part was the " Dies Iræ," the requiem : words can give you no idea how exquisite it was, sung by the Pope's choir without any musical instrument. It was begun by several voices, low and gradually swelling — " Dies iræ, dies ilia Solvet sæclum in favilla, Teste David cum Sibylla." It struck me more than ever, hearing it as it were in the presence of those sibyls, por trayed by the mighty genius of Michael An gelo ; those wonderful women of whom we know so little, but who seem to have had brief and partial glimpses into futurity, and to have borne testimony to the coming Saviour. The same style of chant continued for the first six verses ; the description of the last day, the sounding of the trumpet, the ap pearance of the great Judge, and the bringing forward of the book, the record of men's lives.

"Rex tremendæ majestatis Qui salvandos salvas gratis, Salva me Fons pietatis." This and the following impassioned appeal were uttered in one voice, the most thrilling I ever heard, wailing, imploring, according to the words ; then all the voices joined again in the horror of describing the endless fire, and imploring to be taken out from the goats and placed among the sheep ; then dying away with the last two verses. ' Lacrymosa dies ilia Qua resurget ex favilla Judicandus homo reus, Huic ergo parce Deus, Pie Jesu Domine Dona eis requiem." Masses for the dead differ slightly in several places from the ordinary mass ; the epistles and gospels are different, and they end, instead of with a benediction, with " Eequiescant iu pace." Altogether it was a very solemn service. When all was over the congregation left silently, as if impressed with what they had heard.

Every one who wishes to know the church festivals in Eome should buy for one paul the "Diario Eomano," an almanac telling what is to happen upon each day. Many of the curious old churches are only open once or twice in the year, and by this little book it may be found out when they are to be seen. By the "Diario" I discovered that ano ther mass for Eope Gregory was to be held in St. Eeter's, June 2nd, and I determined to go. Accordingly Mrs. W and I went in ordinary morning costume, for black is only necessary when the Eope is present. The small chapel on the left hand, where vespers are usually sung, was prepared for the service. Just outside the grating, in the aisle of St. Peter's, a great catafalque was erected. This (called a hearse in early Eng lish history) was covered with black cloth, and made in the form of a gigantic urn, with cover and pedestal.

It was tastefully adorned with strips of gold cloth, surrounded by lighted candles, and on the highest point was the papal tiara. We obtained seats in the gallery, for the chapel itself is but small, and it was nearly filled with the clergy and their servants. The mass was exactly the same as that of the day before, except that the choir of St. Peter's is very inferior to that of the Sistine. We had, however, the accompaniment of the organ ; still I think that the human voice, when trained to such per fection as in the Pope's choir, needs no in strument, and is more effective alone. As the museums of the Vatican were all open to-day, we went there, and thoroughly examined the paintings. There are very few, about fifty, but almost all are first-rate. Long did I stand before Domenichino's Last Communion of St. Jerome, to my mind the first of pictures, and superior to Eaphael's Transfiguration.

In the season the galleries are so crowded, the pictures cannot be pro perly seen, but to-day we were almost the only visitors, and the bright sunshine showed off everything to full advantage. The next morning I was very tired, and glad to stay quietly at home and rest. In the afternoon Mr. and Miss B called, and took me a very pleasant drive to the tomb of the Empress Helena. This is an interesting ruin about five miles from Eome out of the Porta Maggiore. It derives its modern name, Torre della Pignatura, from the " pigne," or earthen pots, built into the walls, as is supposed, to lessen the weight. Here was found the magnificent porphyry sarcophagus contaiiiing the remains of the empress, and now preserved in the Vatican Museum. This tower was held by the Knights Templars for some time, and is now in a very dilajiidated state.

Within it is a modern and very shabby church dedicated to Sts. Pietro and Marcellino, only interesting as built over the entrance to a catacomb. We descended with wax-lights, but found everything of interest had been carried away. These catacombs were once very extensive, and reached to those of St. Sebastian, on the other side of Eome, but now only one small part, or "braccio," is kept open. Our guides were two children, who expatiated largely on the beauty of the catacombs, when lighted up on the day of the saints to whom the church is dedicated, which is, I believe, in November. The children were highly pleased with a trifle we gave them, and gathered us nosegays of rosemary, the only plant visible in the enclosure, from the tower to the en trance-gate on the pubhc road, near which was a most majestic solitary stone pine.

These most picturesque trees, shaped hke a large umbrella, with their tall bare stems, give a very peculiar character to the Cam pagna scenery. On our way home we stopped at the Porta Maggiore, to examine the remains of the tomb, erected by the baker Eurysaces to him self and his wife. Their bodies were at the top in a huge bread-basket, and the ornaments are small ovens and loaves of bread. The date of this curious monument is uncertain, but it is believed to be ofthe time ofthe Emperor Claudius. Now, with our return home, I will end my letter. plate; jx /2Ao?2^ a^- Lras^xgiyuy /ay^ccte LETTEE II. Rome, June 13, 1854. My dear Brother, — You often hear of "Christmas in Eome" and "Easter in Eome," but never of " June in Eome," yet certainly the church festivals in this month are much the most interesting.

There is perhaps less of what the Eomanists call "hidden meaning," and we Protestants call " mummery," but the music is finer (except the Misereres in Holy-week), and there is more nationality: you see fewer foreigners and more Italians. I like to see the costumes and to study the appearance and manners of the people of a strange land. June 6th was the day of St. Anastasia, and I had hoped to gain admittance to her church, which is only open that day and once in November. This church is just under the Palatine Hill (on which are the ruins of Cæsar's Palace), and I believe contains nothing of very great interest, but it is one of the most ancient in Eome, called after a Grecian lady martyred here in the third century. I have often tried to gain admit tance, but always in vain ; no one replied to the knocks on the door, and when I offered children playing about a present to fetch the custode, I had always the same reply, " Abita troppo lontano" — he lives too far off, — or " Non si apre" — you cannot get in.

It seems, however, fated that I am not to see this church, for when the clay came I was ill and unable to go out. On the 9th I had a great treat, and visited many old churches. My kind Naples friends, Mrs. W and her two daughters, are in Eome for three weeks, and they invited me to join in an expedition. We took with us our " Mur ray's," " Kugler's Handbook of Painting," and Mrs. Jamieson's " Legendary Art," being wishful to understand all we saw. Breakfast was at half-past seven, and by eight we were seated in our carriage. We drove first outside the walls of the city to see St. Agnese fuori le Mure. It is a very old and interesting church; here (Jan. 21) I came to see the blessing of the iambs. On this day, dedicated to this youthful saint, who is said to have suffered martyrdom at the age of fourteen, a grand mass is said in this church, after which two lambs decked with ribbons and flowers are brought in, and laid on the altar to be blessed and sprinkled with holy water and incense.

They are then consigned to the nuns of a neighbouring con vent, who take care of them, and spin from thefr wool the "pallia" or palls sent by the Pope as presents to archbishops. This was one of the prettiest festas I saw in Eome ; being very popular among the lower orders, many of the country people attended in their picturesque costumes. Now, however, the old church is quite still. It was built by Constantine ; the mosaics in the tribune date from about 638, and the roof is of wood, richly carved. Close by is the entrance to the catacombs of St. Agnese ; these are said to be the most interesting of all the cata combs, and I hope some day to see them ; but after Ascension-day they are closed, and not re-opened till November. We crossed an ancient Christian burying ground to the church of St. Costanza, built by Constantine as a baptistery for his daugh ter.

It is circular, with a double row of columns. AU the mosaics represent scenes in a vineyard — the gathering of grapes and making of wine ; from which it has been con jectured that this building was once a temple of Bacchus ; but since our Lord called him self the "vine" and his disciples the branches, I do not think we need trace to heathen times what bears evident marks of being Christian. Here was found the beautiful porphyry sar cophagus of St. Costanza, now in the Vatican, which also is ornamented in the same style with children gathering grapes. We went, in the third place, to St. Lorenzo fuori le Mure, a grand old church, one of the seven basilicas, and built by Galla Placidia in the fifth century. You will, however, be tired if I enter into details respecting the beautiful marble " ambon es " or pulpits, the granite columns, the inlaid pavement, and other treasures.

One of the sacristans pro mised to show me the greatest treasure of all, and unlocked a kind of wooden cupboard. What do you think I saw ? a large piece of stone, with four holes at the corner, and one in the centre, very much singed and yellow. This, I was assured, was the stone on which the gridiron was placed to martyr St. Law rence ! Some columns of this basilica were brought from the forum of Octavia. They were made by two Greek artists, Sauros and Batrakos, who, not being allowed to sculp ture their names on their work, left monu ments of themselves in a sculptured frog and lizard on the volutes of one of the columns. Adjoining this church is the pubhc ceme tery, where all the Eoman poor are buried. As at Naples, there are 365 holes, each covered with a slab of stone. One of these was raised every night, and all the dead of the day thrown into it, and the slab then laid down, not to be removed for a year.

I was told that these holes were so full that they were not used now, but the dead were laid in a lower piece of ground lately added to the cemetery, and the holes would be opened by and by when the bodies within were de cayed. It is, however, very difficult to learn the truth from an Italian. He has a total disregard for truth, and, like all children of the south, a very vivid imagination ; so he can always weave you a romance if he know nothing about the subject of your inquiry. We then retraced our steps to the city, to the church of St. Bibiana. This is a very small building, standing in a waste piece of ground not very far from St. Maria Maggiore. I do not know why, but it is not frequently visited by sight-seers, and well does it merit being seen. The custode lives at a little dis tance, in a house belonging to the convent of St. Antonio.

We despatched our coachman to find him and the key, while we remained at the portico of the church. Before us was a very beautiful piece of aqueduct, one of the most picturesque remains that are to be found. It was festooned with ivy, forming a rich con trast to the red stone of which it was con structed. A small owl, frightened at our approach, flew away. In the distance, over a garden, appeared the two domes and tower of St. Maria Maggiore. At last the key was brought, and we entered the tiny church. The columns are small, but fine and ancient. There are seve ral frescoes, giving the history of the saint, who was martyred with her mother and sister, in the time of Julian the apostate, by being bound to a pillar and beaten to death with whips, in the thongs of which were leaden pellets. The frescoes of Pietro da Cortona are the best.

Upon the altar stands the chef d'œuvre of Bernini, a statue of the young Balbina. She leans against a column, holding a palm branch, and at her feet grow roses. It is a most lovely statue, the countenance so sweet and the attitude so graceful, without anything manieree, which is too commonly the case with the works of this artist. I must, however, tell you, in justice to Bernini, of two of his bas-reliefs in the church we had just left — St. Lorenzo fuori le Mure; they are not mentioned by "Murray," but they are, to my mind, of great merit. There is a small chapel on the left hand, forming the entrance to the catacombs. These bas-reliefs are on each side of the short flight of steps, and represent the souls in purgatory ; " Ex spectantes " is written under one, and. " Dum veniat " under the other.

The expression of the countenances is admirable. In one bas relief is anguish, and yet a little hope, while in the other you see patient endurance and great suffering alleviated by trust in the coming Lord, after whom they are raising their eyes. Our fourth visit was to the church of St. Lorenzo in Pane e Perna — literally bread and ham, because portions of these articles of food were formerly doled out to the poor at the adjoining convent. I had always wanted to see this church, and had not been able previously to obtain admission. We really could find nothing to be seen : the frescoes are very bad. The only interest attached to the church was its being built on the spot ofthe martyrdom of St. Lawrence. We next went to a church behind St. Maria Maggiore, dedicated to St. Pudenziana. Car dinal Wiseman is titular of this church.

It is built on the site of the house where the Senator Pudens is said to have received St. Peter. Pudens was married to Claudia, the daughter of the British chief Caractacus, and there is a lovely picture in a side chapel, representing their meeting the apostle, with their little girls, Pudentiana and Praxe des, and their two young warrior-sons. This is a most interesting church : the mosaics are very fine. Our Lord is seated in the centre ; Pudentiana, on one side, presents a crown to St. Peter, and, on the other, Praxedes to St. Paul ; four portraits of popes follow on each side. The mosaics are said to be of the fourth century. In another side chapel is a most touching altar-piece : a guardian angel leading a little child. The face of the angel beams with pity and protecting love, while on the child's countenance you see confiding love and clinging confidence.

The church dedicated to the other sister, Praxedes, is close by, and also most interest ing. The mosaics, of the ninth century, are very beautiful, the colours so well preserved and the golden ground still bright. Our Lord and his apostles are represented in the tribune, and, on the arch of triumph, the twenty-four angels, bringing their crowns in adoration, the archangels, the four beasts, and the sea of glass. These figures are stiff and ill-drawn, but they make a great impression upon one, and an impression which increases the more the mosaics are seen : there are few things in Eome which interest me so deeply. c Our last church was "I Quattro Coronati," occupying a prominent position on the Cælian Hill, near St. John Lateran. These " four crowned" martyrs were stone-cutters, put to death in the reign of the Emperor Diocle tian.