Through New Guinea and the Cannibal Countries ... With illustrations and map

Preface

. Within the pages of the following book I have endea voured to describe, from my own personal observations, the manners and customs of inhabitants of the various countries I visited and passed through, who are almost entirely unknown to the European. In the interior of German New Guinea I traversed a greater distance on foot than any white man has done before or since, and on that expedition I discovered the non-existence of a range of mountains previously marked on the chart. In a paper rea,u before the Royal Geographical Society I explained some of the great difficulties and dangers one has to overcome and pass through before such material work can be accomplished. But in this book I have written a fuller account of that journey, as well as that of a later cruise extending over a period of three years.

The Appendix has been very kindly added by my friends, the Honourable "Walter Rothschild, Dr. Hartert, and Dr. Jordan, of Tring, whom I have also to thank for so much other assistance rendered to me during my travels. The majority of illustrations are from photographs taken by myself, but for the few which were not I am indebted to Richard Parkinson, of Ralum, and other gentlemen with whom I met, and who kindly presented vii * PREF A CE. VIII them at a time when I was either without plates, or those I had were useless owing to the severity of the climate. It now only remains to be said that if my patient reader will bear with me to the end, I shall indeed be grateful, and shall consider that my shortcomings have been indulgently overlooked, and that my task has been thoroughly7 successful.

For the" rest, allow me to thank all those who so kindly assisted me during my expeditions, but whose names I have not been able to individually mention here, and I hope the day may come when I shall be permitted to return, in some way, the many kindnesses I received at the hands of those whom it was my good fortune to meet during my travels in the Eastern Hemisphere. Ostbnd, August 11, 1898. CONTENTS.

Part I

. CHAPTEE I. v PAGE THE FIRST EXPEDITION — THE START — ARRIVAL AT SINGAPORE- THE PALACE OF H. H. SULTAN OF .I0H0RE — THE TOWN OF JOHORE . 1

Chapter III. On Board The North German Lloyd Steamer

" LUBECK " — JAVANESE LABOUR COOLIES — GAMBLING ON BOARD — ARRIVAL IN NEW GUINEA — HEAD-QUARTERS OF THE ASTROLABE BAY COMPANY — SIMBANG MISSION STATION — A NATIVE VILLAGE — NATIVES — A JOURNEY UP THE SADDLEBERG .... 19

Chapter IV. Death Of An Official

— NATIVES CARRY HIS EXCELLENCY'S PIANO — THE START FOR THE INTERIOR ...... ii3

Chapter V. We Bid Goodbye To His Excellency The Governor

— ASTONISHED NATIVES — ANGRY NATIVES — WE SHOOT SOME PARADISE BIRDS * ONE OF OUR MEN CATCHES A STRANGE MAMMAL —AM ATTACKED WITH RHEUMATIC FEVER ....... Sti CONTENTS. X

Chapter VI. Page We Fell

A TREE TO CROSS THE RIVER — ARE MET BY A FEW NATIVES: THEY SPEAK THE BOKAJIM DIALECT — SOURCE OF THE RIVER MINJEM — A LABORIOUS ASCENT — ARE OBLIGED TO CUT OUR WAY — THE SUMMIT — NO BISMARCK MOUNTAINS — CANNOT FIND NATIVES — BAD WATER — WE START ON THE RETURN JOURNEY ......... 43

Chapter VII. The Descent

— ONE MAN DIES — PHOTOGRAPH OF THE SOURCE OF THE RIVER — A GOOD DAY'S MARCH — WE SEND TO DUMBU FOR FOOD — HARDLY ANY OBTAINABLE — HOSTILE NATIVES THE LOVE OF RED PAINT — DUMBU VILLAGE — A NARROW ESCAPE — WE SHOOT A WILD BOAR — DISSATISFIED NATIVES — ATTACKED BY NATIVES — WE KILL ONE MAN IN THE ACT OF DRAWING HIS BOW — ARRIVE BACK ON THE COAST — SEVERE ATTACK OF FEVER — RETURN TO FREDERICHWILHELMSHAFEN — WITNESS A CHRISTENING — A NATIVE DANCE — NATIVE FEAST TASTY MORSELS — WE BID FAREWELL ...... 49

Chapter VIII. New Britain

— THE IMPERIAL JUDGE TAKEN FOR A PUBLICAN — HERBERTSOH — RALUM — THE PLANTATIONS OF MRS. KOLBE — CANNIBALISM — THRILLING ESCAPE — NATIVE DANCE ARRIVAL OF THE MAN-OF-WAR — DESTRUCTION OF NATIVE VILLAGES A CLEVER NATIVE — A BULLET-PROOF OINTMENT — MORE DEVICES FOR RAISING THE WIND — NATIVE MARKET .... 63

Chapter IX. Bishop Coupe

— ROMAN CATHOLIC MISSION — FAREWELL TO NEW BRITAIN — AN ILL-FATED EXPEDITION — ON THE WAY TO THE SOLOMON ISLANDS — ARRIVE AT RUBIANA — SUICIDE OF A NATIVE GIRL — MURDER OF A TRADER — THE TRADERS — A VISIT FROM INGOVA, THE GREATEST CHIEF IN NEW GEORGIA A TRIP UP THE RUBIANA LAGOON — MEET WITH UNFRIENDLY NATIVES — PHOTOGRAPHY UNDER DIFFICULTIES ..... 97

Chapter X. The Fate Of The

" ESPERANZA " — PREPARING FOR A DEATH FEAST — SOLOMON ISLAND WAR CANOES — A HOUSE OF SKULLS — WE VISIT THE ISLAND OF YSABEL — HOSPITABLE NATIVES — NATIVES WHO BUILD THEIR HOUSES ON TREE-TOPS .... CONTENTS. XI

Chapter I. Arrival In Java

— BATAVIA — THE VICTORY OF THE DUTCH AT WATERLOO — BEAUTIFUL BUITENZORG — THE BOTANICAL GAR- DENS — PALACE OF THE GOVERNOR-GENERAL — A TEA ESTATE — A ZOOLOGICAL COLLECTION — MY VISIT TO A HEALTH RESORT — A NATIVE THEATRE 144

Chapter II. Natives Are Unwilling To Accompany Me

— WE TAKE ON BOARD DYNAMITE — JAVA A TROPICAL GARDEN — THE BEAUTIFUL WOMEN OF BALI RUINS OF HINDOO TEMPLES — LOMBOK — PALACE OF THE LATE SULTAN — THE LOMBOK WAR — DEFEAT OF THE DUTCH — THE SUTTEE: SELF-SACRIFICING WOMEN — MACASSAR — EXCITABLE NATIVES — STORY OF TWO MEN WITH ONE WIFE 156

Chapter III

I ARRIVE AT AMBOYNA — COSTUMES OF THE NATIVES — GREAT DESTRUCTION BY EARTHQUAKE — THE RESIDENCY — I ENGAGE SOME HUNTERS — NATIVE FONDNESS FOR LAW — BANDA — THE GARDEN OF MOLUCCAS — NUTMEG PLANTATIONS — AN ANCIENT PORTUGUESE FORT — ARRIVAL IN NEW GUINEA — MURDER OF A MISSIONARY — I DEPART FOR THE KEI ISLANDS . . . 167

Chapter IV. Arrive At Toeal, Kei Islands

— I OCCUPY THE PRISON — INTERVIEW THE RESIDENT — LAZY NATIVES — I BREED QUANTITIES OF THE ORNITHOPTERA PEGASUS — AN ABUNDANCE OF FISH . . . CONTENTS. XII

Chapter V. Page Depart For Aru

— ARRIVAL AT DOBBO — CHEAP STORES- -I SHOOT SOME DEER — I ENGAGE SOME HUNTERS — A SCURVY TRICK — I MOVE ON TO MAYKROR — WE RUN ON TO A REEF THE MURDER OF A CHINESE TRADER — MY HUNTERS DESERT ME THE CHIEF STEALS MY CIGARS — I PURCHASE A LIVE PARADISE BIRD 195

Chapter VI. Return To Dobbo

— A GAY SEASON — THE ARRIVAL OF THE STEAMER — COCK FIGHTING — A NATIVE BURIAL GROUND — NATIVE LEGENDS — A DEAD CHIEF — A LOATHSOME CEREMONY — MY STEWARD MUTINIES — ARRIVAL AT AIDOEMA — I VISIT A WOMAN CHIEF — TRITON BAY — I DISCOVER THE ANCIENT REMAINS OF FORMER ENGLISH HABITATIONS — TERRIBLE MAN TRAPS — DEPART FOR ETNA BAY ...... 205

Chapter VII

A NATIVE PILOT — HE DESERTS ME — CONTRARY WINDS AND CURRENTS — TRAVEL THREE HUNDRED MILES FOR NOTHING — ARRIVE IN KYAMAKA BAY ETNA BAY ARRIVAL OF NATIVES POINTED TEETH — TERRIBLE FIGHT WITH NATIVES — THREE OF MY MEN MURDERED — CONTINUOUS FIGHTING — I CAPTURE THE CHIEF — LEAVE ETNA BAY RETURN TO TOE AL — DUTCH GOVERNMENT — THE DRY SEASON — SCARCITY OF LIVING CREATURES — THE QUEEN OF HOLLAND'S BIRTHDAY — ARRIVAL OF MAIL STEAMER — I DEPART FOR PORT DARWIN 216

Chapter VIII. The Harbour At Port Darwin

— THE CABLE COMPANY'S HEAD- QUARTERS — THE TERMINUS OF THE TRANS - CONTINENTAL RAILWAY — CHINATOWN — I TAKE UP MY QUARTERS AT THE RESIDENCY — A CORROBOREE AN ABORIGINAL'S CAMP — PORT DARWIN AS AN IMPORTANT SEAPORT — ARRIVAL AT THURSDAY ISLAND — THE PEARL FISHERY NUMBERS OF JAPANESE — THE ARRIVAL OF THE YACHT — I DEPART FOR NEW GUINEA — YULE ISLAND — OPPOSITION MISSIONS — PORT MORESBY — I WATCH A WOMAN BEING TATOOED — THE " MERRIE ENGLAND" — VOYAGE TO SAMARAI — MISSION STATION AT KWATO — THE ONLY STONE CHURCH IN NEW GUINEA — THE NATIVES — I LOSE MY FAVOURITE DOG — DEPARTURE FOR NEW BRITAIN ..... CONTENTS. XIII

Chapter IX. Page The China

STRAITS— THE TROBRIAND ISLANDS — BEAUTIFUL NATIVE CARVINGS — EBONY — A NATIVE PEARL FISHERY — THE NATIVES OFFER ME TOMAHAWKS FOR SALE — THE DISCOVERY OF NEW IRELAND — ST. GEORGE'S CHANNEL — I ARRIVE IN BLANCHE BAY — I GIVE A CONJURING ENTERTAINMENT — THE DEVIL-DEVIL — DUKE OF YORK ISLANDS — MIOKO — THE GRAVES OF MURDERED EUROPEANS — NATIVE FESTIVITIES — THE DUK - DUK — I AM POISONED BY A FISH — A NARROW ESCAPE FROM DEATH— I AM LAID UP WITH FEVER — METHOD OF RECRUITING LABOUR - WOMEN MANUFACTURING NAVIVE MONEY — LOCAL BUTTERFLIES — ABUNDANCE OF FISH — THE MIOKO TREE AS A LANDMARK . 258

Chapter X

A BAD GALE — I AM OBLIGED TO RETURN TO MIOKO — A FRESH START — NEW IRELAND NATIVES — STEFFAN STRAITS — NATIVES BRING CANOE LOADS OF PINEAPPLES — I MEET A FRENCH TRADER IN AN OPEN BOAT — I AM PRESENT AT A NATIVE DANCE WHICH TOOK TEN YEARS TO PREPARE — WE ARRIVE AT KUNG — A THIEF — THE DESTRUCTION OF A VILLAGE — STRANGE NATIVE HEAD- DRESS — THE NATIVES COLLECT BEETLES— CURIOUS NATIVE IDEAS PALMISTRY ONE OF MY SAILORS RUNS AWAY PROBABLY EATEN BY NATIVES — MEN AND WOMEN QUITE NAKED — I START FOR THE ADMIRALTY ISLANDS .... 279

CHAPTER XL THE ADMIRALTY ISLANDS

— EXCITEMENT OF THE NATIVES — ST. GABRIEL ISLAND — I RECEIVE A VISIT FROM THE CHIEF — PECULIAR STYLE OF DRESSING THE HAIR — NATIVE COSTUME — A VISIT FROM A WOMAN — THE NATIVES ARE TOO DANGEROUS TO PERMIT OF OUR LANDING— THE MURDERERS OF A WHITE MAN — THE CHIEF STEALS MY HAMMER — I DISCOVER AN UNCHARTED PATCH OF ROCK I DEPART FOR ADMIRALTY ISLANDS ........... 301

Chapter XII. Smart Natives

— FRIENDLY SALUTATIONS — EXTRAORDINARY MEMORY — ARRANT THIEVES — NO WOMEN — THE NATIVES CONTEMPLATE KILLING ME — SPEAR WOUNDS ON NATIVES — COWARDICE — MY OWN MEN ARE VERY FRIGHTENED — VERY RICH ISLANDS — NATIVE VOCABULARY ........ CONTENTS. XIV

Chapter XIII. Page

I LEAVE THE ADMIRALTY ISLANDS — WE ARE WRECKED ON A REEF OFF NEW IRELAND — RETURN TO NEW BRITAIN — CHINESE CARPENTERS REPAIR THE YACHT — THE HOT SPRINGS IN BLANCHE BAY — THE BOILING RIVER — THE BEEHIVES — EXPERT FEMALE DIVERS — I LEAVE FOR THE SOLOMON ISLANDS — CALL AT SIR CHARLES HARDY ISLANDS — I DISCOVER THE MURDER OF AN ENGLISHMAN — I PHOTOGRAPH THE ASSASSINS — STORY OF A WHITE MAN SWEPT AWAY IN A BOAT AND KILLED AND EATEN BY NATIVES — AN ACTIVE VOLCANO — BOUGANVILLE — DANGEROUS NATIVES — THE CANNIBAL WHO WANTS A SOVEREIGN — H. M.S. "RAPID" PUTS ME IN QUARANTINE — IVORY NUTS — I START FOR AUSTRALIA — ANOTHER ACCIDENT — RETURN TO THE SOLOMONS H. M.S. "WALLAROO" — THE YACHT CONDEMNED — I LEAVE FOR AUSTRALIA IN THE MAN-OF-WAR ...... 320

Chapter XIV. Strange Native Customs

— METHOD OF COOKING FOOD — SALT WATER SOLD FOR THE INTERIOR — NATIVE FISH - HOOKS — DISEASE — NATIVES WITH MANY WIVES — YOUNG GIRLS WITH LARGE FAMILIES — TREACHEROUS PEOPLE — RELIGION TOTAL EXTINCTION OF THE RACE — FINIS ...... 352 APPENDICES ........... 359 INDEX LIST OF ILLUSTRATIONS. PAGE ISTANA 2 ISTANA ZAHRAH .......... 3 TOWN OF JOHORE BARHA ........ 5 THE ROYAL BATH ......... 9 BAMBOO ARCH, JOHORE . . . . . . . . .11 A GROUP AT THE ROYAL MARRIAGE . . . . . .13 A PEEP IN THE PALACE GROUNDS . . . . . .17 FREDERICHWILHELMSHAFKN ........ 21 COASTAL VILLAGE, NEW GUINEA 24 A TOBACCO PLANTATION. NEW GUINEA 25 NEW GUINEA NATIVES ......... 28 NEW GUINEA WOMEN ......... 29 LANDING SOUTH-EAST NEW GUINEA ...... 31 VILLAGE, NEW GUINEA ........ 37 AN UNFRIENDLY VILLAGE . . . . .... 38 A GROUP OF NATIVES 44 SOURCE OF THE RIVER MIN.1EM ....... 47 DUMBU VILLAGE . . . . . . . . . .51 OURSELVES AT DUMBU ........ 55 MAN AND WOMAN ......... 58 THE VISITORS' HOUSE, NEW GUINEA VILLAGE .... 60 A WEALTHY CHIEF FROM THE INTERIOR WITH UPPER LIP SLIT AND EACH HALF SEWN UP INTO HIS NOSTRILS AS ORNAMENTATION 63 RALUM, NEW BRITAIN ......... 65 TYPE OF NEW BRITAIN NATIVE ....... 67 TYPE OF NEW BRITAIN NATIVE ....... 68 THE VOLCANO, BLANCHE BAY ....... 69 BLANCHE BAY, NEW BRITAIN 71 NATIVE CHIEF, NEW BRITAIN 73 THE CRATER ..........

LIST OF ILLUSTRATIONS. XVI PAGE NATIVE MARKET, RALUM ........ 77 NATIVE MODE OF CARRYING ....... 79 A NEW BRITAIN CHIEF .;,..... 83 RICH CHIEF IN THE INTERIOR WITH HIS WIVES AND CHILDREN . 85 A NATIVE DANCE, NEW BRITAIN ....... 89 GATHERING OF NEW BRITAIN NATIVES ..:... 91 BISHOP COUPE AND HIS CHILDREN — THE BOYS .... 96 BISHOP COUPE'S CHILDREN — THE GIRLS ..... 99 SISTERS OF THE MISSION ........ 103 NATIVE DANCE ON MRS. PARKINSON'S BIRTHDAY .... 105 INGOVA ........... 109 view in the rubiana lagoon . . . . . . .111 panga panga village in rubiana lagoon .... 115 native girls of lillio . . . . . . . .117 solomon island war canoe ....... 121 rubiana native showing distended ears .... 123 a tree house, ysabel island ....... 126 rubiana lagoon native with distended ears . . . 127 view from the heights of po-po, ysabel island . . . 129 po-po village, ysabel island ....... 131 myself with my native hunters ...... 137 the concordia military club, batavia ..... 146 king's plain, batavia ........ 147 governor-general's palace, buitenzorg .... 149 the volcano, buitenzorg ....... 151 a banting wild cow and calf of java crossing a river in the jungle ......... 154 AMBOYNA 168 MAIN STREET OF AMBOYNA ........ 171 THE ORNITHOPTERA BREEDING ....... 179 A NATIVE FORGE, KEI ISLANDS ....... 183 ETNA BAY, THE SCENE OF OUR FIGHr ..... 222 THE SCENE OF THE MURDERS OF JOHNSTON AND SAM . . 226 THE HOME OF MY WOULD-BE MURDERERS ..... 229 A MALAY DANCE 235 A DANCE IN WHICH NONE BUT THOSE OF THE HIGHER CASTE ARE PERMITTED TO TAKE PART ....... 237 THE NATIVES BRING ME VEGETABLES, ETC, TO BUY . . . 245 PORT MORESBY .......... 246 A NATIVE GIRL .......... 247 A VILLAGE BELLE ••••..... 248 THREE SISTERS •••■...... 249 A GROUP OF NATIVES .........

LIST OF ILLUSTRATIONS. XVII PAGE KWATO MISSION HOUSE ........ 253 NATIVES 254 A TYPICAL NEW GUINEA RESIDENCE 256 TYPE OF NATIVE 260 A NATIVE GIRL 261 A CONJURING ENTERTAINMENT ....... 263 THE GRAVEYARD AT MIOKO ........ 265 A GROUP OF THE DUK DUK ....... 268 THE DUK DUK 269 NATIVE DANCE .......... 271 A NATIVE MARKET ......... 275 A NEW IRELAND GIRL ; 280 NATIVE GIRL 281 A TRIBAL FIGHT, NEW HANOVER ....... 285 A VILLAGE ON THE ISLAND OF KUNG, NEW HANOVER . . . 287 NEW HANOVER NATIVES ON BOARD .:.... 291 TWO NEW HANOVER MEN WITH THEIR WIVES .... 295 A FEMALE DANCE 299 KANAU, A CHIEF OF ST. GABRIEL ...... 303 ADMIRALTY ISLANDERS ........ 307 A TYPICAL VILLAGE IN THE INTERIOR OF NEW BRITAIN . . 323 A NEW BRITAIN GIANT 6 FEET 3 INCHES IN HEIGHT . . . 325 THE HOT SPRING, BLANCHE BAY ....... 329 THE TWO CHIEFS AT NORDUP ....... 331 NISSAM, A TRADING STATION ....... 335 NATIVES OF NISSAM WHERE OLIVER BE AVIS WAS MURDERED . 337 GROUP OF WOMEN, SIR CHARLES HARDY ISLAND .... 341 MEN AND WOMEN, SIR CHARLES HARDY ISLAND .... 343 A NATIVE OF BUKA, SOLOMON ISLAND ...... 346 ATTACKED ......

PART I. CHAPTER

I. THE FIRST EXPEDITION — THE STAET ARRIVAL AT SINGA- PORE THE PALACE OF H. H. SULTAN OF JOHORE THE TOWN OF JOHORE. On August 4, 1893, I left London on the P. & 0. steamer Ballarat, accompanied by Captain Cotton, a friend who was with me throughout my first expedition, to New Guinea, transhipping at Colombo into the Boh ilia, another P. & 0. steamer, which took us as far as Singapore. There we found we should be obliged to wait seven weeks before proceeding to our destination, as the mail service between New Guinea and Singapore was only bi-monthly. We therefore made up our minds to avail ourselves of the hospitality held out by his Highness the Sultan of Johore, whom I had previously met and paid a visit to in the Isle of Wight. So after a few days spent in Singapore we went on to the Istana, the Sultan's beautiful residence in Johore.

On our arrival we were most kindly received by the Crown Prince and the Prime Minister, the Dato Metri. n The state of Johore, which is situated at the extreme south end of the Malay Peninsula, is independent, and is governed by the Sultan, a faithful ally to Great Britain, and who, until his death, which has occurred since my visit there, was a well-known figure in English and continental society. The majority of his officials who administrate his little ISTANA. kingdom are British, and although he is under a treaty to accept a representative of our Government at his court, it is most unlikely that such an occurrence will ever take place so long as affairs are carried out as they are to-day. The palace, or Istana as it is called, is built in the usual style of eastern palaces, containing a great number of reception rooms, the finest perhaps being the dining, drawing, and ball rooms, each about eighty feet in length.

THE PALACE AT JOHORE. 3 One entire wing of the palace is set apart for bachelors, the whole being most luxuriously furnished throughout, although perhaps to our European tastes a little too gorgeously. The grounds are very extensive and ex quisitely laid out, and dotted about here and there amongst rare palms of the east, may be seen picturesque ISTANA ZAHRAH and beautifully built edifices, the residences of court officials. About a hundred and fifty yards distant from the palace is another edifice lately erected for the Tunku Makota, Crown Prince and his bride, for the son of the Sultan was about to be married. A charming little bungalow on the left, and higher up a slope, catches the eye for its picturesqueness, and one does not need to be told that it is the abode of an Englishman. Here resides the Marine Superintendent, Mr. Ker.

Farther down the avenue through the trees can be seen the Istana Zahrah ; like the palace itself it is guarded by the Sultan's sentries. As a building it is even larger than the Istana proper, and is inhabited by the feminine portion of the royal family. Yet another building still further on, called the Bali Besar, was especially built for the solemnisation of the marriage ceremony of the Crown Prince. It is built in the shape of a cross, is floored with white marble, and has massive stone pillars from end to end within ; and in the centre of the building is erected a raised dai's on which the bridegroom has to undergo the nuptial cere mony. The whole interior was draped with yellow silk hangings, and when at night the structure was lighted by means of candles set in magnificent cut-glass chandeliers, it imparted a very gorgeous and dazzling effect.

The royal stables contained some thirty horses, and all sorts and conditions of carriages, from the gilded state conveyance, with its orange satin upholstery, to the lowly 'rickshaw — the whole presided over by an English man. The town of Johore lies at the foot of the palace grounds, containing about nine thousand inhabitants, of whom the ubiquitous Chinese predominate. The principal landing place is named the Edinbm-gh Pier, and was built in commemoration of the visit of his Royal Highness the Duke of Edinburgh to Johore some years ago. The town contains a gaol, hospital, club, and many other minor buildings of less importance. Overlooking the town can be seen the Fort, the quarters of the Johore forces. TOWN OF JOHORE BARHA

CHAPTER II. WEDDING OF THE CROWN PRINCE, THE PRESENT REIGNING SULTAN.

I was fortunate enough to be here at the time when the Crown Prince who, since his father's death, has been crowned Sultan, was married to his cousin. The ceremony, which of course, being Eastern, was of a most gorgeous nature, took about three weeks to accomplish. The preliminary ceremony, performed on the '21st of September, was principally noteworthy for the absence of the bride. Various passages from the Koran were read over by the high priest to the bridegroom, who stood upon the dais in the Bali Besar, surrounded by an enormous retinue and numerous guests. A few minutes sufficed for this portion of the proceedings, and after prostrating himself and a great deal of handshaking he returned to the Istana, where he remained in his own apartments guarded by sixteen women, and from then, until the following Thursday, according to the Mahometan rite, he was not allowed outside.

On that day a second and far more imposing ceremony took place, the Crown Prince appearing in most gorgeous apparel of cloth of gold — with the palms of his hands, his nails, and his feet, which were bare, dyed a brilliant red, according to the Malay custom. A procession was formed in the following order : — 1. The Royal Ensign. 2. The military brass band of the Johore forces 3. The Cabulis Guard. 4. The Guides, consisting of four Princes in a state coach. 5. A state coach containing two Royal Kris Panjang Bearers. The Bearer of the State Sword, and the Bearer of the Royal Betel Box. 6. The bridegroom in a gilded state carriage drawn by a beautiful team of horses, and accompanied by two princes as groomsmen. 7. Twelve of the Royal Bodyguard who inarched at equal distances apart on either side of the state carriage. 8.

Four royal carriages containing the sixteen women who had been in attendance during the past week, each carrying the royal candlestick. 9. The Royal Malay Military Guard. 10. Commandant of the Johore Forces. 11. Royal carriages and guests. The whole cortege proceeded at a foot's pace through the principal streets of the town, and eventually reached the Istana Zahrah, where the bridegroom held a reception. On the following Tuesday evening the bride made her first appearance to the public, accompanied by the bridegroom ; for on this occasion they were to partake of the public bath, a custom never omitted, and the most essential part of a Malay Royal wedding. This bath resembles somewhat a monument, the summit of which is reached by short, steep steps, upon which the Royal retinue of women were seated.

At the top, and surmounted by a gilded dome, a fountain is in such a way manipulated as to throw water over the whole structure from top to bottom, consequently, when the Prince and his bride arrived beneath the dome, water which had been laid on from a reservoir, some tw7o miles distant, was suddenly started and the whole assembly drenched to the skin. THE ROY A I PATH. 9 The beauty of this function, which took place at night, was greatly enhanced by the fact that the whole scene was lit up by thousands of fairy lights and Japanese lanterns in all colours. After a gorgeous display of fireworks and the Sultan's national anthem per formed by the bands in attendance, the Royal couple descended, and the nuptials were complete, and the Crown Prince and his bride were considered man and wife. THE ROYAL BATH.

On the following week another royal wedding took place, the bridegroom on this occasion being " Unku Salaman," a nephew of the Sultan. Although not so much gorgeous display was exhibited, this ceremony was exceedingly interesting. The bridegroom was an hour and three quarters late, and consequently we were all kept waiting. On his arrival he told us his bride's brother, whose consent as her guardian was indispensable, was missing, and he was eventually discovered in the middle of a game of billiards in a house some half a mile away. I afterwards learned from another member of the Royal family, that the real reason of the bridegroom's absence was accounted for from the fact that he had fallen asleep on the verandah of his own house. The long delay was in a way a greater punishment to me, inasmuch as I was obliged to sit in Eastern fashion until my legs became very numbed and painful.

When he did, however, arrive, he was accompanied by the judge of his district, sword-bearers, and eight female attendants, who chanted Malay melodies throughout the whole proceedings. This wedding materially differed from the more imposing ceremony of the Crown Prince, inasmuch as it was completed in three days. After the High Priest had pronounced his Benediction, the bridegroom was led behind a screen at the end of the room, and there, before twenty girls, whom I perceived squatting on the floor, changed his dress, to one literally ablaze with gold and diamonds, from the wonderful ornament on his head to the bejewelled slippers on his feet. After having received our individual congratula tions, he repaired to the Istana Zahrah, where we followed him and found all the doors barred and zealously guarded by the ladies of the harem, as according to Malay custom a tax is levied before the bridegroom can gain admission to his bride.

We were all, therefore, invited to help pay the tax, and many were the dollars, gold pieces, and notes thrown over the door to the eager sirens within. By this means door after door was opened to us ; one door only remained, but alas ! the funds of the whole company had become entirely exhausted, the only remaining coin that could be found being a bad dollar, which had been palmed off on me by a wily Chinaman the day before ; however, it answered well enough, and the remaining door BAMBOO ARCH, JOHORE. A GROUP AT THE ROYAL MARRIAGE .1/1" SERVANT'S TASTE FOR CHAMPAGNE. 15 was passed, but we found that a more exciting part of the performance was yet to come. At the top of the stairs stood the bride, but between her and the attacking male party were at least a hundred ladies. Through these we had to force our way, and eventually, very hot and exhausted, we reached the bride and handed her over to the bridegroom, who was placed upon a magnificently gilded couch to again receive the congratulations of his guests.

After being presented with a marriage favour I retired, accompanied by the Crown Prince, and adjourned to the Johore Club, where the rest of the evening was passed. One evening, when dining alone with the admiral of the Sultan's fleet, otherwise the Marine Superintendent, in the palace, I was surprised to hear the butler opening so many bottles of champagne. After three corks had flown I said — " Surely the man's off his head ; what on earth is he opening so many for ? " On being interrogated, he said he was only doing it for my sake as the Tuan Ingris (English gentleman) was very fond of champagne. I asked him in Malay what he meant by such a statement. "Well," said he, "all I know is that your native servant comes down at least ten times a day for a bottle of champagne for his master." I need hardly say I had never-sent for nor received any at all.

This had been going on for days, and my scoundrel of a boy must have made a good thing selling what he could not drink. I had at least the consolation of know ing that he had a little real pain as well, and his head must have been sore for a week. The remainder of our visit in Johore was occupied in elephant and tiger shooting, which the Crown Prince inaugurated for our benefit. A few days before leaving, however, at the invitation of the Sultan, I drove over to THROUGH NEW GUINEA. 16 Tyersall, his Singapore palace, over which he very kindly personally conducted me. This palace, situated on a hill two miles from the town of Singapore, may justly lay claim to the title of an Oriental palace of great artistic design. It is of most substantial structure, with a verandah of not less than a quarter of a mile in circumference.

Its marble floors, stately halls, magnificent reception and ball rooms and spacious suites of sleeping apartments, furnished and decorated throughout in a most princely and luxurious manner, make it an edifice of singular beauty and elegance. The drawing-room furniture struck me as being exceptionally unique — it was of cut-glass upholstered in yellow satin. The palace contains a collection of curious pictures, bronzes, and other articles of vertu, which constitute this palace without doubt by far the most beautiful European edifice in the East, as its owner is distinctly the most hospitable of all Eastern potentates. I cannot close this chapter, however, without expressing my sincerest gratitude for the very kind treatment I received at the hands of the late Sultan and his son, who now reigns, and of all his officials, and I shall always look back upon my visit there as two very pleasant months. A PEEP IN THE PALACE GROUNDS. •5

CHAPTER III. ON BOARD THE NORTH GERMAN LLOYD STEAMER

" LUBECK " — JAVANESE LABOUR COOLIES — GAMBLING ON BOARD — ARRIVAL IN XFW GUINEA — HEAD- QUARTERS OF THE ASTROLABE BAY COMPANY— SIMBANG MISSION STATION — A NATIVE VILLAGE- NATIVES A JOURNEY UP THE SADDLEBERG. The ss. Lubeck. which runs between German New- Guinea and Singapore, was crowded with Chinese coolies, some two hundred in number, who had been engaged by the New Guinea Company to work on their tobacco plan tations. Our nine fellow-passengers were on their way to New Guinea to take up different government appoint ments there. After two days we arrived at Batavia, the chief port of Java, where we took on board about a hundred and fifty Javanese coolies of both sexes, bound for the same destination. The Butch Government agent, who shipped these unfortunate creatures, was, without ex ception, the most tyrannical bully it has ever been my misfortune to come across, hitting and kicking the poor people for no apparent reason, until I remonstrated and censured him for his conduct.