Observations and remarks during four excursions made to various parts of Great Britain, in ... 1810 and 1811, etc

Front matter

OBSERVATIONS and REMARKS, DURING FOUR EXCURSIONS, MADE TO VARIOUS PARTS OF GREAT BRITAIN, IN THE YEARS 1810 AND 1811. I. FROM LONDON TO THE LAND'S END IN CORNWALL II. FROM LONDON TO LANCASTER; III. FROM LONDON TO EDINBURGH; and IV FROM LONDON TO SWANSEA. PERFORMED BY LAND, BY SEA, BY VARIOUS MODES OF CONVEYANCE, AND PARTLY IN THE PEDESTRIAN STYLE, n\ DANIEL CARLESS WEBB. ILonnon : PRINTED AND PUBLISHED BY ALLEN & CO. 15, TATERNOSTER-ROW. 1812. 1

ADVERTISEMENT.

. A_s numerous tours have been obtruded upon the Public, but none recently, some of them possessing more merit than others, I take the liberty of contributing to the num ber, and throw myself upon the indulgence and candour of an enlightened Public, so liciting their attention to a description of particular places, through which I have passed, and a true' relation of occurrences that have happened, during extensive ex cursions to various parts of the kingdom of Great Britain. I beg leave to assure the Public in gene ral, and my Readers in particular, that I have not attempted to give any account of places that I never saw, but have only de scribed, from my memorandums, such as came immediately under my view, in a plain narration of facts ; without endeavouring

Introduction

. After having been long confined to a close residence in the metropolis, I embraced with great satisfaction the opportunity afforded me by a few weeks leisure, to explore some of the most interesting scenery of my native country ; and hence originated the idea of the present undertaking. Circumstances, needless here to enume rate, compelled me to make four different excursions. About the beginning ofthe year 1810, I had occasion to go to Windsor, and continued my route to Bath and Bristol, at both of which places I remained some time ; I then proceeded to Exeter, and commenced pedestrian to Plymouth, where I also re sided during a short period. My next move ment was by sea, to Cornwall, whence I made another pedestrian excursion through several parts of that interesting county. — Being under the necessity of returning to London towards the end ofthe summer, after completing the business that brought me to town, I set off' for Lancaster. Being unwil ling to travel to so great a distance without stopping at some remarkable towns, worthy

INTRODUCTION.

. VI the observation of the tourist, I proceeded by the way of Oxford, Birmingham, Man chester, and Liverpool, making a short stay at each, to view what was most interesting and important. In the early part of 1811, being again in London, an opportunity of a passage offering for Edinburgh, I proceeded to Portsmouth, and embarked in a ship of war for Leith. Making but a short stay at Edinburgh, I returned to Portsmouth by water, and from thence came again to London. Towards the end ofthe spring, I took my departure for Salisbury, and crossed the country to Bristol, whence I passed into Wales. By the means of this work, I introduce to the public various remarks and observations, during these four different excursions, made in the order above-mentioned ; and conceiving them not altogether unwor thy of attention, I here submit to their in spection the different routes I have gone over, amounting nearly to five thousand miles.

During which course I visited some ofthe principal places and extreme points of England, viz. the Land's End in Corn wall, Lancaster, Edinburgh, and into Wales ; together with other remarks that I made at the time, on topics of peculiar interest.

Preface

. fern Richard Colt Hoare has remarked — " The knowledge of one's self, and one's country, is truly desirable, but it is a know ledge that few are able or bold enough to attain." By difficulty we acquire the one, and it is not without perseverance and industry, that we are enabled to relate the other, and bring our views and conceptions into a pro per form, so as to render them beneficial to mankind. It is not by simply passing through a country, that we obtain infor mation concerning it, nor generally by con versation with the inhabitants ; who are often so much occupied in their own avoca tions, or professions, as to preclude a par ticular enquiry into many of the circum stances, which excite curiosity, although

PREFACE.

. immediately in their vicinity, and impor tant to be known. But the tourist, when perhaps merely stimulated by curiosity, or a desire of amusement, often gains' that information, which is wholly neglected by those who reside on the spot: and for his own benefit, forms a journal, by which he introduces his remarks and observations to the public. Such is generally the origin of those works, called Tours. And it is by a well-digested compendium of various accounts, that we arrive at a .perfect knowledge of the situation, manners, and customs ; curiosities, natural and artificial, of cities, towns, &c. forming great kingdoms. Much has been written upon these subjects, and much useful information, remains to be collected. Tours hence become of public utility, by comparatively uniting the most distant countries together, and bringing under one view, the different manners and customs of various parts of this, and other empires. Bjr well intended observations, so calling the attention and consideration of indivi-

PREFACE.

. IX duals, under circumstances, in which thev are interested, to a general improvement for mutual benefit. From judicious remarks of this nature, beneficial alterations have already been undertaken. It ought to be the peculiar province of the tourist, to re present things as they are, and describe what strikes the eye, or relate such col lected information, as he may have had it in his power to obtain, with impartiality, and discrimination. The historical part, unless deduced immediately from well authenticated information on the spot, as well as the antiquity of different places, excepting they have been derived from the same source, I have left to compilers, who must draw their accounts from various authors, who have written on such subjects. I have therefore confined myself to a correct relation, of what I deemed worthy at the most particular places, through which I passed.

Neither have I given any account of places in the vicinity, that I have not been able to view ; this being intended as a faithful narrative. I have taken the liberty X

PREFACE.

. of submitting my observations, where I thought improvement might have been made ; and have freely given my opinion, as well as collated that of the inhabitants, upon some local measures which have been condemned, as prejudicial to their interest: hence this is not only a description of places, but an essay with a view to public advantage. I have unwillingly been compelled to speak, in one or two instances, of other tourists, who have passed over part of the same ground, in order to do away erro neous impressions, that might have arisen from their partial views of some subjects, which appear to have bean incorrect] v noticed. In one part of my journey, finding that the landlord of an inn had particularly re marked, that his house was not frequented, from accounts published in some tours, of the incivility of a previous occupier ; and perceiving that it had occasioned him to conceive it an incumbent duty on innkeepers, to treat travellers with civility and at-

PREFACE.

. XI tension ; so good an effect arising from public observation, I hope will be a sufficient apology, for troubling my readers with remarks, generally, on the different inns, at which I put up, and presume that they will not be deemed too minute, when the benefit of the weary traveller is considered ; although of no great consequence to general description. In some places very remote, I have particularised the dis tances at the heads of the chapters, where they have appeared of sufficient importance to be laid down. I have also introduced, as they occurred, several observations, that I have deemed of utility, on the agriculture of the countries through which I have passed. Having given a slight description of some places near town, which may be sup posed very generally known, I can only say, such vvere my observations on my return, when passing through them : these possibly, may not be uninteresting to the public ; particularly as the metropolis has now so greatly increased in size ; there may

PREFACE.

. be some, who have not even had an opportunity of approaching the places here men tioned ; and my remarks may be novel to those who have. I have endeavoured to avoid enthusiasm, in my description of sentiments or of sce nery ; my wish being ouly to make the im pression, that a general observer would feel, on having before him the same views. Neither do I wish, jesuitically to impress upon the minds of my readers particular tenets of religion ; — those I leave for the discussion of the divine. My allusion to the interference of Providence, is what most persons would feel, when under perilous circumstances, and thankful for a happy escape from danger or suf fering. Having travelled by land and by sea, on board of a packet and a man of war, in waggons, stage-coaches, mails, post-chaises, gigs, and by canal-boats, as well as on foot, I may be permitted to point out, what I found to be the best mode of proceeding on a tour, with a view to gain information.

PREFACE.

. xm Walking appears to me to be attended with the greatest advantage; as by this method, the country comes more immediately under inspection, and the traveller is not so likely to pass objects, for want of information, which is always more readily obtained by pedestrians. I therefore throw in a few observations to those, who may choose to adopt this mode of travelling. The carriage of baggage may justly be considered an inconvenience ; it is therefore proper to take as few things as possible ; these carried in a light green bag, (I would on no account recommend a blue one, as that might occasion you to be mistaken for a lawyer) gives you a decent appearance, as if on business, and prevents your meet ing with the disagreeables, incidental to pedestrians, by a rough reception from ig norant waiters, and surly innkeepers.

I shall here enumerate such things, as I suppose you will want, viz. one shirt, one pair of stockings, two neckcloths, two poc ket-handkerchiefs, a pocket-compass, map, drinking-horn, paper, and implements for writing.

PREFACE.

. XIV As Don Quixotes are usually regarded with an eye of suspicion, it is not necessary to dress in an eccentric style, but I should recommend a decent, becoming appearance, without any thing remarkable, so that different companies may not blush to receive you. You will always find means of re cruiting your wardrobe, or procuring clean linen without sustaining delay. I usually found the larger inns the most preferable for accommodation, and generally as cheap as those of an inferior description ; by frequenting the travellers' room I often -met with intelligent and communicative persons, from whom I obtained much information. Previous to your tour, you should consult, and make notes from such books as have treated upon the places you intend to visit. Observe, that it is only by becoming an eye-witness, you can justly appreciate the places or objects to be viewed.

As you may frequently be under the ne cessity of retracing your steps, when an opportunity of a carriage presents itself, do not reject it; provided it does not pre-

PREFACE.

. XV vent you from enjoying a good prospect, or seeing, an object of curiosity. In order not to fatigue my readers, I have avoided being minute in my description of places generally known, but have given casual remarks, that possibly may contain something useful or novel. The great antiquity of Stone-henge, I hope will apologize for my hazarding an opinion of its origin, as well as collating and transcribing that of various other per sons who have preceded me, and which, from want of proper data, seem to be merely conjecture. " We are well advanced when we begin well," says an Italian author, therefore the traveller should make it his study to set out with cheerfulness and good humour, in order to view things in their proper light, so that he may record with impartiality as well as judgment, what he receives pleasure and entertainment from observing. I beg to observe, that the population

PREFACE.

. mentioned in this work is drawn from con versation with the inhabitants of the respec tive places, and from circumstances that at the time gave me good reason to consider them as authentic. Having received numerous civilities from strangers during my tour, I have taken this opportunity of making my acknowledg ments. OBSERVATIONS and REMARKS DURING FOUR DIFFERENT EXCURSIONS.

Chapter I

To Windsor— The Castle— His Majesty George IIL— To Bath — Situation — Baths — Squares, Crescents, and Streets, Abbey-Church — Market — Assembly-Rooms, Theatre, and Places of Amusement — Canal — Watering-Places, over built. VV ELL, what have we got here?" says a snarling critic, " more tours, more trash, more plagiarism. If a man walks a few miles, he now publishes his observations, and cannot keep it a secret, that he has moved out of the place where he was born : thus are the public inundated with what are called descriptions and remarks." " Softly, splenetic Sir, suspend your ire, description is necessary, and our remarks I hope will not displease you." jH-aving occasion to proceed to Windsor, I commenced my journey on the 27th of February, 1810, and remained at this beau- B tiful place for two or three days.

Windsor has belonged to the crown ever since the conquest, the beauty of its situation has hitherto rendered it the particular favourite of kings, who have generally inhabited the castle, which is situated on a high hill, having a fine command of the Thames, and extensive views of the adjacent country. These buildings occupy twelve acres of land, and are a mile in circumference ; from being so generally known, I need not describe them. The next day, I had an opportunity of seeing that most beautiful specimen of gothic architecture, St. George's Chapel, and it being the day appointed by procla mation for a general fast, the reigning Mo narch, George the Third, was attending divine service. I was highly gratified by a near approach to his Majesty on his leaving the chapel, and was sorry to remark, that the universal destroyer, time, had much enfeebled his person, which, added to the infirmity of his eye-sight, rendered old age very visible.

His Majes ty's steps were tottering, but seeming un willing to be assisted, he got into his carriage with difficulty. Very little pomp was manifested, the ruler of this vast empire was only received by a serjeant's guard, in addition to his other attendants, on his coining out of the chapel. Strangers were permitted to stand close to the attendants, in order that they might enjoy a sight of their gracious sovereign. I afterwards viewed the magnificent apartments of the castle, the paintings and fittings-up are incomparably grand, and every way fit for the reception of a great king. The principal walk, called the terrace, is faced with a stone rampart, and is 1870 feet long, deserving particular notice from the beautiful and extensive views which it commands. The weather was peculiarly fine for the time of year, displaying a brilliant and unclouded sky.

Spring was fast dissipating the gloom of winter, and the warmth of the day had expanded the buds of the trees, and thrown an enlivening hue on the verdure of the fields. The corn looked forward and healthy. Time only permitted me to take a hasty view of the beauties of the ex tensive parks. Windsor is handsomely built, well paved, and has an excellent market-house. Here b 2 <• are very extensive barracks, for the accommodation of a large body of horse and foot soldiers. This is a commanding situation, in case of foreign invasion, or intestine commotion, sufficiently distant from the sea to prevent surprize, and near enough to the metropolis, for the purposes of transacting business without hazarding the disagreeables attendant on sudden civil tumult; and likewise opening a communication with most of the inland counties.

I passed by the noble college of Eton. This building is truly grand, and well adapted to the purposes for which it is in tended. At Salt-Hill are two very superb inns. Here I took a place by the coach for Bath, which mode of travelling precludes very particular observation of the country through which you pass. The handsome town of Reading, is much in creased by several handsome buildings, recently erected. Great alarm having began at this period to prevail in the metropolis, relative to the appearance of the corn, I universally found that the coming crops wore a very unpromising aspect, and worse as I proceeded to a greater distance from London. Many fields which had been sown with wheat, vvere necessitated to be plowed up, and resown with barley or other corn. I noticed, as I several times since have done, the beauty of Marlborough forest.

The rapidity with which the coach gene rally proceeds from the goodness of this part of the road, precludes the pleasure of any thing more than a transient view of some rural In a few hours I arrrived at the place of my destination : and was happy to enter that comfortable inn, called the Christopher; and procure refreshment, after being jumbled eighteen hours in what was little better than a flying waggon. Bath is beautifully situated in a vale, surrounded by high hills on every side, excepting where they opened to allow a course for the river Avon; which rapidly winds its way through the city, and is made navigable for barges to the neighbouring port of Bristol, giving to Bath all the advantages without the disagreeables of a sea-port town. The range of hills, shelters the city from cold winds, but renders it extremely close in hot weather, hence it is subject to frequent rains.

Although the situation is low, the air is at all times salubrious; and the inhabitants in general long-lived and healthy. This place derives its peculiarity and splendour, from the circumstance of its being supplied with hot springs of a me dicinal quality. Their discovery occasioned the original foundation of the town, since chartered into a city. Various conjectures have been made from whence*. these waters derive their heat; probably, however, from the same cause by which singular phœno mena are produced at Buxton, Matlock, and at Aix le Chapelle, in France. These waters are beneficial in various diseases taken internally, and they are also used externally for bathing. A magnificent building called the Pump-room, has been erected for the reception of company, who choose to drink the waters; and several elegant and convenient structures for those who bathe.

The houses are built of a free stone, dug from the neighbouring quarries, which has the peculiar property of hardening in the air; being soft when first brought from the quarry, and easily cut with the saw or chissel. This advantage has been the occasion of Bath being laid out in such ele gant Crescents, Streets, Squares, and build ings. No collection of houses being built in a finer style of architecture, or displaying greater embellishments in their external decorations. It may be observed in general that the new streets are of a handsome breadth, and the old ones continually widening and improving. I must not omit noticing the most principal places, of whose beauties from having staid some time here, I had frequent opportunities of contemplating. Queen-Square is charmingly situated, and composed of elegant buildings, displaying all the grandeur of architectural excellence.

In the middle of a grass-plat, enclosed by iron pallisadoes, stands an obelisk seventy feet high, shaped and pointed like a bookbinder's needle; from the inscription, it is found to have been erected by Richard Nash, in commemora tion of the honors conferred, and the bene fits bestowed on the city, by his Royal Highness Frederick Prince of Wales, and his Royal Consort, in 1737. The next is the King's Circus, a noble circular pile of uniform structure, to which you ap proach by three handsome streets. It is adorned with various ornaments of architecture: in the centre is a fine reservoir of water, surrounded by a shrubbery. The Royal Crescent is a segment of an ellipsis, formed by a majestic assemblage of build7 ings, with a single order of Ionic pillars, supporting the superior cornice, an extensive lawn in front, declining towards the Avon.

This Crescent commands a fine prospect of the city, and picturesque views of the opposite hills. The lamps on the other side of the river, have a peculiar effect in a dark night; and give you an idea of the poetical description of an approach to the infernal regions. St. James's Square is composed of elegant houses, and situated beyond the Royal Crescent. In the midst of it is a shrubbery remarkable for the beautiful verdure of its grass-plat, and superior foliage of the shrubs. The elevation of Lansdowne Cresent, gives it a pre-eminence over every other part of Bath, in point of fine air, and extensive views. It looks more like an aerie, than a habitation for men. Camden Place is a Crescent, commanding views from its eminence, bold, and interesting. To this may be added, Streets, Parades, and places too numerous to be described.

On the other side of the Avon, Laura-Place, Great Pulte ney-Street, and Sydney-Place, may vie with its neigbourhood in architectural beauties. An elegant hotel fronting Sydney-Gardens, completes this noble vista of fine houses. The beauty of the bridge crossing the Avon is greatly diminished by the building of several mean little shops on each side. Here are several churches, and dissenting meetings of all persuasions, the principal building for religious worship, is the cathedral church of St. Peter; usually denomi nated the Abbey. This is a most noble structure, and the last specimen of ecclesi astical gothic architecture upon the larger scale in the kingdom. The present noble edifice, owes its origin to Oliver King, Bishop of Bath and Wells, who in the year 1495, began to rebuild the Abbey.

It is a stately and elegant structure, built in the shape of a cross, from the centre of which rises a tower of one hundred and sixty-two feet high ; with an excellent peal of ten bells. The length of the whole fabric from East . to West, is two hundred and ten feet, from North to South, one hundred and twenty-six feet, and the breadth of the body, and side aisles, is seventy-two feet. The coup d'œil, at the grand entrance, when the eye takes in the interior of the building, is wonderfully striking; and you are immediately sensible of the chastest uniformity, proportion, and harmony in its several members, its arches, its clustered columns, and piers. Fifty-two large and elegant windows illuminate the fabric, all of them of admirable workman ship; which has occasioned the church to be called the Lantern of England.

A pro fusion of elegant monuments decorate the interior of the church, some strike the eye for the beauty of their execution and hap piness of design, and others impress the mind from the circumstance of their com memorating characters, who excited the interest of the times in which they lived. No City can boast of more charitable in stitutions of every description, than Bath ; not only to the credit of the inhabitants, but also to that of the numerous visitors, who have so largely contributed to feed the hungry, cloathe the naked, administer to the wants of the sick, assist in the reformation of the dissolute, afford instruction to the ignorant, and suppress the odious prac tice of common begging. This City is well supplied with provisions of every description, its noble and handsome built market-place, exhibits a profusion of all things in season, and may vie with the London markets in the articles exhibited for sale; in general when the place is not over crowded, they are also sold at reasonable rates, and this market is peculiar for the regularity of its management, its neatness and excellent arrangement.

Bath is also well supplied with coal at a cheap rate; they have of late increased in price, but this is a reasonable article, compared to the London price, not being more than one third of the amount. The City is governed by a Mayor, Alderman, Common Council, Town-Clerk, &c. The judicial business of the City, and the concerns of the Corporation, are transacted in the Guildhall. The police is well regulated; and the city thoroughly cleansed, watched, and lighted. A good supply of fresh water is obtained by conduits, from the springs on the neighbouring hills. This elegant place, peculiarly dedicated to amusement, contains two sets of Assembly rooms, of superior order, in which are held Balls, Concerts, and Card Assemblies. A promenade in the new Pump-Room may be obtained without expence, where an ex cellent company of musicians perform every morning, during the height of the season: a numerous assemblage of ladies and gen tlemen walking up and down in social converse during the performance, presents a lively and animated spectacle.

A most beautiful Theatre has been recently erected at a considerable expence; the exterior is light, and of appropriate architecture ; the inside conveys an idea of superior taste and convenience, the fittings-up are superb, and the paintings that embellish the ceiling, give it a most magnificent appearance. This is generally the nursery of theatrical talents for the London boards; consequently, the performers are greatly inferior, for no sooner do superior talents present themselves, than the advantages offered by the metropolis, induce the best actors to make their debut in London. The pro perty chiefly belongs to Messrs. Palmer and Dimond. At Sydney-Gardens, is a species of amusement similar to Vauxhall, near Lon don; these gardens are most beautifully laid out, and embellished with many pretty buildings ; a good ride is formed the whole way round, where subscribers are admitted.

The canal passing through, adds to the variety of the scene. The traveller or visitor, may be accommodated at numerous good inns, lodging and boarding-houses. As Bath is situated on a declivity, sedan chairs are much used, as an easier mode of conveyance than hackney coaches. A canal now communicates with the Grand Junction, and tiie whole interior of the country, as well as London. No trade of any great importance is carried on, but for the supply of the visitors and inhabitants. The im provements of late years have been consi derable, but the rapid increase of buildings, has rendered this place too populous for the usual routine of a watering-place, which ought not to be too extensive. Re gular inhabitants (excepting those who keep lodging and boarding-houses and shops), by no means contribute to the gaiety of a place of amusement.

Strangers like to mix with strangers, residents have introduced innovations into the mode of introduction, destroying that pleasing harmony that used to place all vistors upon the footing of one family. These residents, likewise, destroy the spirit of amusement by forming private parties. As the old watering-places are overbuilt, new ones arise in their stead. Another reason why Bath declines as a watering-place, may be traced to the formal introduction required by the present mas ters of the ceremonies at the Assembly- Rooms. This unnecessary punctilio, has superseded that usual freedom of inter course, so agreeable betwixt strangers at these places of general resort. Money and polite behaviour formerly constituted suffi cient recocommendations at Bath. But a person is quite at a loss for company, with out being previously noticed by the fashion able world; who by their endeavours to render their company select, have driven away a number of those who came pur posely to be instructed by the superior and elegant manners of that class, which Mr. Burke distinguished by the epithet of the " Corinthian Capital of Polished Society A Should improper persons by chance gain admission, it is not necessary that the company, who only stand up with them in a dance, should notice them on other occa sions ; neither would the danger of swind lers being admitted be so great, provided a spirit of gaining did not pervade the rooms.

I am credibly informed that one of the sets of rooms has lately been shut up ; and, that for want of subscribers they were even compelled to discontinue the performance of the musical band at the Pump room. A tour to the romantic scenery of the highlands of Scotland now succeeds the usual visit to the Lakes of Cumberland and Westmorland: and I make no doubt that the little village of Dawlish, in Devonshire, which has lately acquired celebrity as a sea bathing-place, will become, until over built, a desirable place of resort. Some other spring may shortly be found equally salubrious with the Bath waters ; and pre clude its being a favourite place of amuse ment. A populous town is not well calcu lated for contributing to the comforts which arise from what is called snugness.

Chapter II

Vicinity of Bath.— Lansdowne.— Wick.— Prior-Park. — Midford Castle.— Combhay.— Farley Castle.— Twiverton. — Keynsham. — Brislington. The vicinity of Bath affords many beautiful walks and rides, together with several objects worthy the attention of the curious. I found the ascent to Lansdowne toilsome, but was compensated by the salubrity of the air, and the beauty of the prospect, extending over a considerable tract of country, and greatly enlivened by the ele gant appearance of Bath ; which seen from any point is certainly most interesting. This Down is unenclosed, and chiefly devoted to the purpose of feeding sheep. On Lans downe is erected an elegant freestone monument, with the following inscription: " To the immortal memory of his renowned grandfather, and valiant Cornish friends, who conquered, dying in the royal cause, July 6th, 1G43."