Travels in some parts of North America in the years 1804-1806

Preface

. THE narrative and observations now presented to the public, were the fruits of a voyage undertaken solely with commercial views. They were written without any expectation of their being copied, and without the remotest thought of publication. But falling acciden tally under the notice of the Editor, he was pleased with perusing them, and believed that, if printed, they would also be agreeable to many others. He accordingly communicated this idea to the writer, who, after considering the subject, with a proper degree of modesty, consented to the proposal. If the reader should derive amusement or instruction from this work, he will naturally wish to know something respecting the author. He is the second son of the late Doctor Abra ham Sutcliff, who practised, with much skill and reputation, as a physician, in Sheffield, and who died there about twelve years since. At Sheffield, the author, who was born and edu-

PREFACE.

. cated in the religious Society of Friends, ser ved his apprenticeship ; and afterwards settled therein business as a merchant. In this line he continued for several years, and dealt exten sively with transatlantic connexions ; which, after some time, rendered it expedient for him to make two voyages to America, for the settlement of his affairs. The latter voyage and travels subsequent to it, comprise the transactions which are now offered to the public. In the year 1806, the author returned to England, and continued there till the year 1811; when he conceived that a residence in America, might prove more advantageous to him. He accordingly, with his wife and one daughter, the only surviving child of a very numerous family, embarked for New-York, in the sixth month last, with the view of settling in that country.

Whilst the author was in America, he had frequent intervals of leisure, which the nature of his mercantile concerns rendered unavoida ble. Of some of these opportunities he avail ed himself, to visit his connexions and friends

PREFACE.

. V in various parts of the country ; having also the view of gratifying his curiosity, and en larging the sphere of his information. Being a man of observation, of a strong memory and benevolent disposition, and having formed an extensive acquaintance with respectable per sons in America, by whom he was treated with kindness and attention ; he seems to have been qualified to render an account oi his tra vels both pleasing and interesting. The Edi tor therefore ventures to presume, that many of the remarks and occurrences contained in this little volume, will prove useful as well as amusing to juvenile readers ; and that they will not be destitute of information to persons of mature years. The narrative appears to be judicious, and is given with great simplicity ; and the Editor has not the least doubt of its strict veracity.

The anecdotes rise naturally from the subject, and are generally of a curious, novel, and instructive nature. They are numerous, and form a peculiar and striking feature of the work. On the whole, the Editor persuades himself, that these travels will not be unacceptable to the generality of readers. Vth Month, 1811. CONTENTS.

Chapter I

The author leaves home— Peak in Derbyshire — Manchester Liverpool — Transactions before the voyage — Sets sail from that port — Occurrences on the voyage — Arrival at Mew- York— Page 1—23

Chapter II

New-York — Philadelphia — Account of the Matnoth — Norris- Town — Spring-Mill Ferry — Philadelphia — Burlington — Amboy— New-York — Baltimore — Washington — Alexandria — Page 24—46 CHAPTER HI. Port-Tobacco — Fredericksburgh — Richmond — Negro trial Gouchland — Fredericksburgh — Effects of Negro Slavery on the Whites — Mount Vernon — George Town — Baltimore randy- Wine— Wilmington — Philadelphia— Page 47 62

Chapter X

Buffalo Town— Ferniing-s Tavern — Falls of Niagara— Black Creek — Fort Erie — Batavia— Vandeventer's Inn— .Ganser's Tavern — Lake Seneca — Tioga Points — Eldridge's Tavern — ElkLand's — Muncy — Cattawessy — Roaring Creek- — Maiden Creek— Bethlehem— Falmouth— Merion— Page 149—175

Chapter XI

Merion— Cruel murder of a black boy— A few lines addressed to the author's family— Preservation of a ship's company Baltimore— Emigrants from Germany and Holland— Elkridge— Company of Slaves— Washington— A faithful Slave- Page 176—194 m CONTENTS. IX

Chapter XII

Baltimore— Gunpowder Falls— Mary Stroud— Civilizing the Indians — Negro boy Sado — Battle of Brandywine, and events in the neighbourhood— Westgrove — Another Negro boy — Merion — Occurrences there, &c. — General Moreau — A Negro Slave who had been liberated — Dr. Franklin — Page 159—222

Chapter XIII

Woodside— Account of Captain H. — Substitute for Soap— Yearly Meeting at Philadelphia — Merion Meeting-house — Violent tempest-~Dreadful massacre of Conestoga Indians — Page 223-240

Chapter XIV

Dunkers— A barn— Piazzas— Management of Sheep— Merion--- Eclipse of the sun — Summer dress— James Simpson — Chad fishery — Bee-eater— Wild grapes — Crab cider — Hogs— Fire flies — Paper mills — Chestnut tree— Harvest — Ancient Deed — J. Rowland— Wood felling — Indian corn — Page 241—259

Chapter XV

Several brief narrations— Occurrences relative to the author's voyage home, &c— Iron works— Two German families— Marble Quarry— A farm— Emigrants— Taking leave of his friends about Merion, intending for New-York— Occurrences on the journey— Embarks for England— Cabin company— Occurrences on the voyage-- • - • ■ * - Page TRAVELS IN NORTH AMERICA.

Chapter I

The author leaves home. — Peak in Derbyshire — Manchester — Liverpool — Transactions before the voyage — Sets sail from that port. — Occurrences on the voyage. — Arrival at New-York. 22d of the 5th* Month, 1804. A.FTER having taken leave of my relations and friends in Sheffield, I left home with my wife and children. As our road lay through Castleton, we visited Peak's Hole, which was a great gratification * To those who may not be accustomed to designate the Months by their numerical names, the following Table may be useful : The 1st is commonly called January 2d • . . February. 3d March. 4th April. 5th May. 6th June. 7th July. 8th August. 9th September. 10th . ." October. llth November. 12th ' December. A TRAVEI S IN to the children, who had never before seen a natural curiosity of equal interest.

The habitations within the cavern, with the manufactory of pack-thread that was carrying on there, had a very singular and striking effect, which had something in it more like a dream or a vision, than a transaction of real life. Yet I did not perceive on the countenances of those who were employed in this subterraneous abode, less appearance of being happy or cheerful, than we see upon the faces we meet in the crowded streets of towns and cities: — Such is the force of habit. After taking some refreshment, we set out upon eur next stage; and, believing it would be some relief to the horses, I walked up the Winyards, which, though a laborious walk, is far from being an unpleasant one. This is, perhaps, one of the most romantic roads in this country, on account of the seep and lofty mountains through which it winds its way; and, after having ascended the summit, a very different scenery is presented to the view : The most fruitful and populous part of the counties of Lancaster and Chester lying in full prospect before the eyes of the traveller, presents something like the appearance of one vast .city intermixed with fields and woods.

In the evening, we arrived safe at Manchester. There we were hospitably entertained at the house of T. H. jun. and were kindly shown through his bleaching, dying, and printing works. We were also shown a beautiful collection of dryed specimens of herbs, flowers, &c. the production of Botany Bay. These he had received from an ingenious young man who had been transported into that country when but a boy on a charge of pilfering ; of which, I understood, it was generally believed he was innocent. His habits of industry and care did not forsake him, although thrown amongst such a set of companions as Bota ny Bay and a Transport Ship may be supposed to furnish ; and, in a few years, he had acquired property to a considerable amount. 5th Month, 23d. Having concluded to take our passage in one of the packet-boats which go be tween Manchester and Warrington, T. H. kindly accommodated us with his sociable to the water side.

We got into the packet, and had a pleasant sail nearly to Warrington, where we dined, being about 18 miles. This is an easy mode of travelling both as to expense and fatigue ; and when upon a canal like that of the Duke of Bridgewater's, and in such a country as that through which we sailed this day, the weather at the same time being fine and clear, it could scarcely be otherwise than very pleasant. In the evening we arrived at Liverpool, and tookup our quarters at our cousin T. B.'s. 5th Month, 24th and 25th, were spent at Liver pool, in preparation for my intended voyage to America. 5th Month, 26th. Being the first day of the week, we attended the meetings at Liverpool, and spent the rest of the day at our Cousin A. B.'s, at Mile end, near Liverpool ; where we had the company of Captain R. B. of the Romulus, an agreeable, con sistent friend, from Hudson City, in the State of New-York. 5th Month, 27th.

In the morning cousin T. B. kindly conducted me to the Lyceum ; a splendid public establishment of the nature of a news-room or coffee-house, and library. Afterwards, accompanied by my wife and children, we paid a visit to the Asylum for the Blind ; an institution well wor thy the support of the wealthy, where many persons who have lost their sight, are instructed in various branches of business, by which they are enabled to pass their time usefully, and agreeably to them selves. After visiting this institution, we walked to the Botanic Garden. Our relation being a sub scriber, had the privilege of introducing us as strangers ; and we spent a pleasant hour or two, having, in the compass of a few acres of land, an opportunity of seeing a vast variety of plants, flowers, shrubs, and trees, natives of every quarter of the world, alive and flourishing as in the countries from which they are brought.

Amongst them I noticed the banana and the sugar cane. Aster visiting these noble institutions, our feel ings were harrowed by seeing an unfeeling press gang dragging along a friendless poor man, whom they had just hunted down in the streets. 5th Month 28th. This day I paid a visit to^ Captain N. on board his ship called the Laura ; and after some conversation with him and his agent, J. C. concluded to take my passage in her to New-York ; for which I paid 35 guineas. 5th Month, 29th. In the afternoon of this day, I was requested by the Captain to be in readiness to go on board in the evening ; accordingly, after taking leave of my wife, children, and hospitable relations, I went on board, accompanied by my fellow-passengers, who were J. W. jun. and J. L. both of Philadelphia ; J. F. of Leeds, and W. W. of New Orleans.

After sleeping that night on bo:.rd, the wind proving contrary, and there being no appearance of a change, we all came on shore in the morning, and I returned to my wife and children. Th s was, I believe, an agreeable disappointment to all of us, as the prospect of so long a voyage, and the probability that we might never see each other more, on this side the grave, had sat rather heavily upon some of our minds at parting the evening before ; and now, to have almost a certainty of spending another day with my wife, A children, and near relatives, seemed to me a privi ■fege almost invaluable. 5th Month, 30th. I spent this day with my wife and children, in the family of my kind relatives, and so pleasant it was to me, that it was like the addition of one day to my being in the world. 5th Month, Zlst.

This morning my wife and children, with part of cousin B.'s family, and M. M. of Rochdale, accompanied me on board the Laura, then lying about a mile from Liverpool, near the Cheshire shore. As our boat passed by the Princess, a ship of war, then lying in the Mersey, we were a little entertained by the slrp's crew being ordered to man the rigging, just as we were along side of them. In a few moments after the word of command was given, the shrouds of every mast appeared covered with seamen,-from the deck to the heads of the masts ; having the appearance of three lofty pyramids ; each beginning with a file of men at the bottom, and finishing at the top with a single individual. After spending about an hour, and taking some refreshment on board the Lr.ura, we all returned safe to Liverpool, where I slept this night. 1st of 6th Month, 1804.

The wind becoming more favorable, we received orders to be ready to go on board again in the evening ; so I again took leave of my wife and children ; but as I had before to return on shore, and the winds con tinued variable, there was a probability that I might have to return to them again in the morn ing. These circumstances took away a little of the edge of our anxiety at parting, and rendered it not quite so formidable as our first taking leave on the 29th ult. My cousin T. B. and W. B. accompanied us to the water-side, where a boat was waiting for us. We got safe to the vessel, which 'lay at anchor the whole of this night. The next morning, being 6th Month, 2d, as the seamen were raising the anchor, we were visited by R. B. who kindly came at six o'clock in the morning to inquire after our welfare.

What little wind we had was favourable ; and it being a clear and beautiful simmers day, the town ot Liverpool, and country on both sides the Mersey, appeared to great advantage as we sailed down the river. Afer passing a little way into the Irish Channel our Captain sent away the Pilot. On the Pilot's leaving our ship, the captain requested that when he got to his own vessel he would not present our seamen with a bottle of spi its as was commonly done in such cases, alledging that his men were already so intoxicated they were scarcely able to work the ship. This circumstance, though seemingly of small importance, had nearly been of serious consequence to us ; and, for a time, there seemed some danger of a mutiny amongst the mer.. Such was the sourness which it produced, that, during the whole voyage, they sullenly refused the customary allowance from the Captain, of a bottle of brandy at the end of every week ; and, at one time, a ringleader in the business, who had formerly served on board a ship of war, broke out into very abusive language to the Capta n, and treated him in such a manner that there was some danger of the Captain firing his pistol at him. .

I was sorry to find that this man had been favoured with an education in our Society; and that his mother was a valuable friend. Notwithstanding his bad conduct towards the Captain, he always behaved with kindness and attention to me whenever I came in his way, and vhen I spoke to him, which I did several times, endeavour, ng to convince him of the impropriety of his conduct, in thus doing his utmost to break in upon that subordination which was necessary to be maintained in every ship. After the pilot had left us, we proceeded along the Welch coast, having the mountains of North Wales in full view during the whole of the da)*. The weather being calm and clear, it is scr.rcely in the power of words to describe the grandeur of the prospect, which indeed was such that we could hardly regret the slow progress we made.

In the afternoon, when opposite one of the highest mountains, we were alarmed by the noise of a very heavy discharge of cannon, from one or two vessels which were some distance a-head of us. At first we supposed it to be an engagement between an English and a French privateer; but, on coming nearer, we had reason to believe they were two slave ships, which had left Liverpool a little before us, and had taken the opportunity of scaling their great guns, and exer cising their men, when in a situation that would produce the greatest echo and noise ; a disposition very prevalent in the world. The night coming on, the beautiful and romantic Welch scenery was hid from us, and, next morning, having made but little progress during the night, we found ourselves nearly opposite to Holyhead. Having been favoured with a smooth sea, we escaped sickness, and sat down to breakfast with some appetite.

Before we rose from table, a ship that was coming up the Channel, put out her boat and made a signal to speak with vts.^ Our vessel was accordingly managed in a way to put them to as little trouble as possible ; and they soon reached us. On their coming onboard, we found the ship was the Liverpool, from New-York to Liverpool ; and the Captain being an old acquaintance of the Master of our ship, they were rejoiced to see each other . After an exchange of intelligence and news papers, we parted from her, and sailed slowly round the head of Holy-head, and soon had TRAVELS TH a fine prospect of Caernarvon Bay ; but before the evening closed, the sky was overcast, and the wind got up, so that we were under the necessity of taking in a great part of our sails ; and several of us began to be very sick.

In the course of the night, which was very dark, the wind became contrary ; and it was with great difficulty we got through the narrow part of the Channel, near St. David's Head, without fairly putting back towards Liverpool. The passage was not accomplished, without several times tack ing from one coast to the other; and, could I have had the management, I would gladly have put the ship into Milford Haven, and did advise the Captain to do it. However, we had cause to be thankful that we got well out of this narrow sea, although not without imminent danger, of losing our cabin boy, who was washed overboard as he was carry ing the knives and forks from the caboose to the cabin ; but, in passing through the railing, he got entangled among some ropes which hung from the rail, and was thus providentially preserved.

Nearly our whole stock of table knives and forks were lost, which was a great inconveniency to us, especially being just at the commencement ot our voyage ; however I did not regret the loss of the knives and forks, seeing the boy's life was preserved. This accident made so strong an impression upon the pcor lad, that he never recovered his spi* rits during the voyage. Our first mate being an active man, made us a few table forks from an old barrel hoop, using the anchor as an anvil. These, v ith our pocket kn ves, served us a substitute lor those we had lost. This little occurrence manifests the propriety of passengers providing themselves each with an extra knife and fork. About two days after this, we got clear of both the English ar.d Irish coast, and made a rapid progress on our way across the Atlantic.

There seemed every probability of our being favoured with a short passage ; but, in a voyage at sea, as in the voya,;e of life, it often happens that our pros pects are not realized. After about two weeks of fair wind in the general, we began to experience hard gales, and from unfavourable quarters ; so that for a week or ten days, we made but little way. The patience of our Captain being a good deal tried, and his temper somewhat soured, he was liable to use harsh language to his people, and particularly to a black man who was steward of the ship. On one occasion, the ship had laid to for several hours, not being able to carry any sail, excepting a single one to steady her. In this state she was left to drift be fore the wind, which was then, to use the Captain's expression, blowing a hurricane, and she was of course a good deal agitated.

The waves, according to the seamen's phrase, were running mountains high. It happened, under these circumstances, that one of th passengers, by a sudden roll of the vessel, was near being thrown down the stairs into the cabin ; but, catching hold of the mahogany handrail, he saved himself at the expense of breaking the rail. This the Captain did not observe till night when we were all seated in the cabin. Then he fell upon the poor black man, with violent and abusive language, charging him with breaking the rail. After his passion was somewhat subsided, I told him that 1 was a witness that the black man was innocent of what he had charged him with ; that, considering the kind of day we had passed over, there was great cause to be thankful no other damage had been sustained than the breaking of the hand rail, and that, so far fro.n givkig way to passion at trifling things in such a time as this, our minds ought rather to be impressed with gratitude, that we had been providentially preserved through the storm.

At first, the Captain seemed offended at my freedom, and turned from me in displeasure. Nothing more was said at that time ; however, alter we were all in bed, and the passengers mostly asleep, he called to me, and, on my answering him, he said, that he was convinced of the justice of my obser vations; was obliged to me ior the hints I had dropped, and that he was sorry for his having NORTH AMEHICA. given way to passion, when far other sentiments ought to have possessed his mind. This acknowledgement was ingenuous on the part of the Cap., tain ; and I believe he slept no worse for it. In the course of the day, when the weather had cleared up, altho' the wind still blew very hard, and the waves were rolling along in awful grandeur ; while the ship was yet lying to and drifting before the wind, the other passengers and myself went upon the upper part of the quarter deck, that we might have a full view of the sea when thus agitated, and appearing in all its majesty.

There is something in such a scene exceedingly humiliating. The most powerful of men, when thus baffled, and riding on the waves, every moment in danger of being swallowed up, are indeed but " as the small dust of the balance." Every sensible mind, when placed in situations like these, must be alive to the sentiment which that expression conveys. As we thus stood admiring how every wave, after rolling along in majestic greatness, seemed to break at our feet before it reached the ship, the first mate, who was on the watch, called out aloud, for every one to take care of himself. Observing that he ran and placed himself under the quarter boards, near one of the stansions, I immediately followed his example, and, taking fast hold of the ropes, sat down by him ; which I had scarcely done before one B of these huge waves rolled completely over the ship ; and we were, fora short time, overwh. lmed by it.

Such was the force with which it struck the ship, that she reeled to the other si ie, au. I real y trembled under the stroke. One of the passengers having his back towards it, and not hearing the mate's warning, was struck down with so much violence, and pre cipitated to the other side of the vessel with so much force, that his head, striking against one of the quarter boards, broke the board in pieces ; and a pair of cloth pantaloons which he held in hs hands at the time were washed overboard. Indeed we had great cause to be thankful to Divine Providence, that we escaped without fir. ther loss or damage ; and itwas matter of admiration to me, that, whilst buri ed in the wave, my mind was prese ved from any considerable fear or anxiety ae. to the consequences. At this time, we were, I believe, in the gulf stream ; for as the water passed over us, it felt as warm as new milk.

The ship reeled so much to one side, at the stroke ol the sea, that we had a second immersion as she righted, after recovering from the shock. As it had blown a hard gale all the preceding night, the ocean was become so very rough pretty early in the morning, that a heavy sea broke through the cabin windows, and rolled into the beds on one side of the ship ; which occasioned a great alarm ; and I have seldom seen men rise more quickly from their beds than our companions did on that side of the cabin. [A little time after the storm had subsided, and the sea was become calm, we were entertained with the sight of a number of flying fish, which, from time to time, continued: to rite out of the sea, and after taking short flights, dropped again into the water. These flying fish appeared to be pursued by a number of dolphins, which, for a considerable time, kept company with the ship, so as to give us a full opportunity of ob serving their beautiful colours, continually changing to the various tints of azure, green and gold.

The gold fishes, which we see confined in glass jars, are very beautiful ; but not at all to be compared with the dolphin, which is, besides a much larger fish; generally, weiging 8 or TO pounds. Our seamen cai^ght, several of them, and we found them very good eating. Although the colours of the dolphin are exceedingly beautiful while alive and in motion in the sea, yet they are still more extraordinary when the fish is taken out of the water, and is in the agonies of death ; displaying then, every colour of the rainbow, changing in rapid succession as long as life remains. As the dolphins were in pursuit of the flying fish, so the dolph ns in their turn were pursued by the sharks ; and such is the activity of these voracious animals in seizing their prey, that, whilst one of our p ople was dragging up a dolphin, as quickly as h.r possibly could, a huge shark put up his monstrous jaws and snatched the fish from the hook.

The voracious shark also had his enemies ; for the sailors by throwing out pieces of meat, enticed him to come so near the ship, that one of the com pany who stood upon the main-chains had an op portunity of casting the noose of a strong rope over his head ; and the other end of the rope being pas sed through a block, he was quickly hoisted upon deck, where he lay some time striking the boards with his tail with great violence. It was curious to see the agitation of the little pilot fishes, which ac companied the shark ; and when he was dragged out of the water, they seemed to tuse their best endeavours to follow him. The pilot fish is something like the mackerel ; but of a smaller size. On the shark's being thrown upon the deck, several sucking fish fell from him about 8 or 10 inches in length.

These fishes, I should suppose, are a considerable annoyance to the shark, sticking close to various parts of his body like a leech. The Captain not being willing that he should be killed, on account of the dirt and disagree able smell that he would make ; and the sailors not being willing that he should escape punishment, wantonly tied a piece of wood about the size of a common oar to his tail, and then hoisted him again and let him into the sea. Notwithstanding he had been out of the water more than a quarter of an hour, the moment he reached the sea, he dived into the deep with the incumbrance at his tail, apparently with the greatest ease, and was out of sight in a few seconds. Of the various kinds of fishes we saw on our pas sage, porpoises were the most common. They are large, weighing from 20 to 30 stone ; yet we frequently saw large shoals of them extending as far as the eye could reach, and all driving along in one direction ; frequently leaping quite out of the water, and often passing close by the ship, so as to afford the sailors an opportunity of striking them with the harpoon and dragging them on board.

Some of the people, I observed, were partial to the heart and liver of this fish when fried, as serting that they were scarcely to be distinguished from those of a hog when dressed in the same way. At one time we were entertained by the sight of several whales, five of which passed close to the ship, sporting and rolling along within a few yards of us ; making a loud noise in snorting and spouting up the water from a hole in their foreheads. These creatures were of large bulk, and appeared exceedingly fat and sleek ; their skins shining as if varnished. Although there kdoes not appear any place of rest for fowls in the wide ocean, yet numbers of them are daily seen riding light pieces of cork on the loftiest waves, and in the most tempestuous B weather. These are mostly of the petril tribe, although sea-gulls are often seen at a great dis tance from land, especially on the banks of New foundland and in approaching them.