Cruise of the United States Frigate Potomac round the World, during the years 1831-34. ... With engravings

Front matter

Burning of Qtjallah Battoo. CRUISE OF THE UNITED STATES FRIGATE POTOMAC ROUND THE WORLD, DURING THE YEARS 1831-34. EMBRACING THE ATTACK ON QUALLAH BATTOO, WITH NOTICES OF SCENES, MANNERS, ETC, IN DIFFERENT PARTS OF ASIA, SOUTH AMERICA, AND THE ISLANDS OF THE PACIFIC. Embellished with Eiagraying6. BY FRANCIS WARRINER, A. M. NEW-YORK : PUBLISHED BY LEAVITT, LORD & CO. 182 Broadway. BOSTON : CROCKER & BREWSTER, 47 Washington-street. 1835. Entered according to the ' A^sSSall'ress, in the year 1835, by Fbancis Waebineb, in the Clerk's Office of the District Court of the Southern District of New-York. Weel & Trow, Paa

Preface

. A multitude of interesting objects will of necessity have presented themselves to a voyager in a three years' cruise ; especially in a government ship, circumnavigating the globe. Yet when all the materials I had collected were placed before me with a view to their publication, I was not a little surprised at the amount : and indeed, it was no small task to compress within a moderate compass all the things which seemed necessary to be mentioned. Particular passages in this volume have already appeared in the journals of this country, under the form of letters and extracts. These, however, constitute but an inconsiderable por tion of the work ; and they have also, on a careful revision, received some important amendments. The design of the author has been to give simple and correct representations of facts and scenes, with-

PREFACE.

. out distortion or embellishment. He has the satisfaction of believing that, whatever imperfections may chance to be discovered in the execution of the work, no important errors can have crept into his state ments ; as he has not ventured upon the description of any scene in detail, without having had recourse to materials, which had been previously collected by him upon the spot. New-Yobk, January, 1835, CONTENTS. Chapteb 1 page 9 Departure for New-York— Reflections — First Visit to the Potomac — News of the outrage on the 6hip Friendship — Memorial to Government respecting the Malays — Cnange of the destination of the Potomac — Disappointment in consequence — Departure of the ship — Storm at sea — A man reported overboard — Taking of sharks — Arrival at the Cape de Verde islands — Remarks concerning them — Departure — A sail in sight — Suspicions respecting her — Chase commenced — Dolphins.

Chapter II 19 Rio de Janeiro — Scenery— Ships of foreign nations — Don Pedro — State of the country— Notice of the inhabitants — Slaves — City prison — Public gardens^Houses- — Market — Public buildings — Museum — Academy of fine arts — Public library — Emperor's country palace — Praya Grande — Chamber of Deputies — House of Lords — Burial of a child — Description of the churches — Fountains — Aqueducts — Social entertainments — Gloria hill. Chapter III 35 Departure from Rio— Scenes at sea — Theatre on board ship — Other amusements — Reflections — Vessel in distress— Entrance to Table Bay — Arrival at Cape Town — Reception— Description of Cape Town — Its situation, institutions, &c. — Visit to Constantia — Rev. Dr. Philip — Sir Lowry Cole — Public library — Reception of company on board the ship — Visit to Mr. Rutherford — London friends — Dr. Hewitt.

Chapter IV 53 Scottish Highlanders— Their music — Public dinner given to the officers of the ship — Sabbath at Cape Town — Services at Dr. Philip's church — At the Dutch Reformed— At Dr. Adamson's — Departure from Cape Town — Reflections — Visit to the city prison — Character of the Hottentots — Missionary operations— Testimony of a Hottentot in their favor— Schools— London Missionary Society — Dr. Philip — Interview with a Malay prisoner. Chapter V 65 Departure from Cape Town — Doubling the Cape— Preparations for the attack on the Malays — Death on board — Burial at sea— Reflections — Character of seamen — St. Paul's island— Hog island— A Malay prow in sight — Sumatra. CONTENTS. Chapter VI 75 Quallah Battoo — Geographical notice — Resources— Productions— Forts —Shipping— Arrival at the town — A boat sent ashore— Hostile appearance of the natives — Return of the boat — Malay fishermen — Taken prisoners — Preparations for the attack — Disemharkment — Reflections — Battle — Appearance of the town from the ship — Conflagration — Boats — Flag of victory — Release of our Malay prisoners.

Chapteb VII 87 Particulars of the battle — Attack on the first fort— Second fort — General alarm — Flight of the natives — Attack on the third fort — Defeat of the Malays — General consternation — Burning of the town— Killed and wounded — Withdrawing of the forces — Spoils— General remarks- Visit to the ship by natives of Soo Soo— Burial of the slain. Chapteb VIII 101 Po Adam — Former outrage of the Malays upon the Friendship — Po Adam's wealth, and friendly disposition to the Americans — His losses in consequence — His reception on board the Potomac — Mohammedan fast — Beating to quarters— Its effect upon Po — Cannonade at Quallah Battoo — White flags raised. Chapter IX Ill White flags — Visit of the officers at Soo Soo — Return with a chief— Flag of truce from Quallah Battoo — Peace established — Visits from people on the coast — George Baker — King of Acheen — Festival at Quallah Battoo — Mohammedans — Pilgrimage to Mecca — Koran — A sick man — A Mohammedan priest.

Chapter X 119 Soo Soo — Visit of delegates to the ship — Rajahs of Soo Soo — Conduct of one of them investigated — Brig Olive from Boston — Refusal of water to the brig — Meditated attack — The difficulty settled — Fruits — Trade with the natives — Scenes on board ship — Character of the Malays — Climate. Chapter 3a 125 Departure from Soo Soo — Religious services on board — Washington's birth day — Salute — A sick man — Island of Crockotoa — Departure from the island — Straits of Sunda — Islands — Pangoringan — Excursion on shore — Incidents— Women — Malay children — Men — Covetous disposition — Navy buttons. Chapter XU 133 Second excursion on shore — Monkeys — Ship Philip First — The Commodore's excursion — Anxiety on board for his safety — His return to the ship — Fruits — Trade with the natives — Departure — Batavia roads — Chinese — Chawley Jangthay— Harbor of Batavia — Chinese junks — River Jacatra — Chinese marriage procession — Mr. Forestier — French hotel — Ride into the country — Buitenzorg.

Chapter 33X111 145 Visit at Mr. Medhurst's — Missionary operations — Mrs. Medhurst — Ride into the country — Scenery — Anecdote — A rich planter assassinated by his slaves— Depok — Religious worship — Malay school. CONTENTS. 7 Chapter XIV 155 Visit at Mr. Medhurst's — A ride — Appearance of the country — A Chinese temple— Ceremonies — Mr. Medhurst addresses the people — Distribution of tracts — Idol worship— Fire worshippers- -Passing through the fire — Antiquity of the Chinese — Reflections. Chapter XV 167 Chinese of Batavia — Houses — A Malay mosque — The town house — Party at Mr. Medhurst's — Character of the people of Batavia— Feast of the tombs — Mode of burial — Sepulchres — Malay pedlars — Chinese temples — Mode of worship — Theatrical performances — Visit to the tomb of a distinguished captain — Religious ceremonies — Dramatic exhibition — Notions of the Chinese respecting their deceased relatives — Idol worship — Inscription by Mr. Medhurst on their temple — Character — Visit to a Chinese temple — Missionaries.

Chapter XVI 181 Departure from Batavia — Sickness on board — Mr. Oliver, the Commodore's Secretary — His sickness, death, and burial — Subscription for the relief of his family — Reflections — A man overboard — An English barque — Ladrone islands — Jimmy Thompson, the pilot. Chapter XVII 191 Lintin — Sail up the river — Islands — Forts — Affair of the AlceBte — Pagodas — Shipping — Duck boats — Other boats — Arrival at Canton — Mr. Bndgman — Commerce of China— First ship sent to Canton from the United States — General remarks — Chinese shops — traders. Chapter XVIII 203 Leang Asa — Dinner party — Cultivation of tea — Proclamation from the Hoppo — Departure from Canton — Return to the ship— Chinese women — General remarks — Visit to Macao — Cave of CamoenB — Departure for Lintin — Bashee islands.

Chapter XIX 219 Arrival at the Sandwich islands — Oahu — Honolulu — Natives — Royal family — Entertainment — Missionaries — Queen-regent — Chiefs — Native worship — Sunday school — Entertainment on board ship — Dinner pany by the king — Interview with Gov. Adams — Council of the king and chiefs — Complaints against the missionaries — Government — Character of the natives — Remarks. Chapter XX 243 Departure from Oahu — Scenes on board ship — Krusenstern's island — Tahiti — Rev. Mr. Nott — Religious service — Native school — Fruits Queen Pomare — Departure from Tahiti — Bible class on board — Man overboard — Coast of Chili — Harbor of Valparaiso. Chapter XXI 255 Valparaiso — Monte Alegre — Posada — Natives— Carts — Almendral — Parties on board — Chilian ladies — Buildings — Roads — Climate — Navy — Commodore Wooster — Burying groundB — State of the country — Government — Institutions of learning.

CONTENTS. Chapter XXII 265 Departure from Valparaiso — Flogging on board — St. Lorenzo — Harbor of Callao — Salutes— Foreign ships — Rumor respecting La Fuente— Ride into the country— Bella Vista — Hospital — Ruins of old Callao — New Callao— Character of the inhabitants— Soldiers. Chapter XXIII 275 Ride to Lima — Entrance to the city — Houses — French inn — Character of the people — Monasteries — Friars — History of the city — Convent of St. Francis— Churches— Foundling Hospital— Institutions of learning — Revenue of Peru — State of the country — Holidays — Cathedral — Grand mass — Bull fight. Chapter XXIV 295 Second visit to Callao — Religious meeting on board the Dolphin — Chaplains — Remarks concerning the navy — Carnival — Washington's birth-day — Visit from President Gamarra and lady — Departure from Callao — Island of Juan Fernandez — Arrival at Valparaiso — Mr. Penniman, his sickness, death, and burial — Passion week — Ceremonies.

Chapter XXV 305 Departure from Valparaiso — Port of Coquimbo — Whale ships — Visit to the city — Catholic procession — Silver mill — Shock of an earthquake — Quarantine — Whaling scene — Departure— Arrival at Callao — Fruits — French brig — Rumor of an insurrection — Celebration of Peruvian independence — Departure from Callao — Arrival at Payta — Rendezvous for whale Bhips — Face of the country — Inhabitants. Chapter XXVI 319 Galapagos islands — Essex bay — Landing at Black Beach — Colony — Governor Villamil — Visit to an English resident — Excursion to Saddle point — Terrapins — Turtle doveB — Departure for Guayaquil — Breakers — Island of Puna — Catholic ceremonies— Guayaquil— Buildings — Inhabitants — Pantheon — Visit to the ladies — General Flores — Rocafuerte. •* "K[s\ Ol Chapter XXVII *. . . .

JN V. . . V* 335 Second visit to Payta — Catholic celebration — Image of the Virgin Mary — Lambayeque — Bull fight — Lodgings — Alarm in the night — Inhabitants — Departure — Arrival at Callao — Celebration of an earthquake — Quarantine — Last visit to Lima — Assemblage at the Franciscan convent — Departure — Arrival at Valparaiso— Ride to Santiago — Scenery — Interview with an Irishman — Posada — Pedagogue — City of Santiago — Public promenade — Burial ground — Mountains — Battle ground of Chacabuco — Inn — Rope bridge— -Quillota. Chapter XXVIII 357 Departure from Valparaiso — Scenes at sea — Cape Horn — Ice islands- Arrival at Rio de Janeiro — Salutes — Botanical garden — Catholic ceremonies — Corcovado — Visit to the Emperor — Departure from Rio — Arrival in the United States — Boston Harbor.

Chapter I

Departure for New-York — Reflections — First visit to the Potomac- News of the outrage on the ship Friendship— Memorial to Government respecting the Malays — Change of the destination ofthe Potomac — Disappointment in consequence — Departure of the ship — Storm at sea— A man reported overboard — Taking of sharks — Arrival at the Cape de Verde Islands — Remarks concerning them — Departure — A sail in sight — Suspicions respecting her — Chase commenced—Dolphins. During the month of July, 1831, I received orders to report myself to the commanding officer on board the United States' frigate Potomac, then lying at anchor in the river Hudson, off the Battery at New- York. Having made the necessary preparations for a voyage at sea, on the first of August I bade adieu to my home, and departed for that city.

Many of my particular friends accompanied me to the steam-boat landing, to bid me farewell. I felt a struggle at parting with them, which it was difficult to suppress. The last bell of the boat had rung, and I hurried on board to conceal the emotions in my own breast. There are times when a momentary pang will thrill over the soul. The present was one of them. I envy not the stoical apathy, or the chilling indifference of those who could have remained unmoved at such a moment as ■2 CRUISE OF THE POTOMAC this. The tenure that I held on life was feeble. I was for the first time to become a wanderer on the broad universe. Untried scenes in other lands awaited me. I had entered the boat that was about to waft me from the happy scenes of my boyhood, never, perhaps, to revisit them. I was to exchange one of the most beautiful villages that is washed by the waters of the Connecticut, for the dark hull of a ship of war : its refined and agreeable society, the only thing which renders life tolerable in this shadowy state, for the far less agreeable society of other climes.

I should consequently sacrifice many comforts, deprive myself of some ofthe choicest enjoyments of life — be exiled as it were from the world — encounter the tornado and the cataract from the elouds, and perhaps finally lay my bones in the land of strangers. Such ideas produced in my mind a series of melancholy feelings, not at all lessened by the receding spires, and the last glimpse of the rich and noble scenery in which my native village lay so peacefully embosomed. The second of August found me at New- York, when I paid my first visit to the good ship Potomac. I was a stranger to every person on board, except Commodore Downes. He received me with the urbanity of a well-bred gentleman, and introduced me to his officers, among whom I found many who possessed not only the knowledge ofthe practical sailor, but the gallantry of the officer, and the accomplishments of the scholar.

The ship was in fine order, and nearly ready for sea. While she lay in port, she was visited by the Honorable " The Secretary of the PLAN OF THE CRUISE. Navy," and by other distinguished officers connected with the naval service, who were received with all the honors due to officers of their rank in our navy. About this time, the news of the outrage on the ship Friendship, by the Malays, reached this country. An earnest appeal was made to our government, by a body of American captains, giving a statement of the capture of that ship, and praying for protection against the Malays on the coast of Sumatra. They stated that for several years, the deportment ofthe natives of that island towards our countrymen, had become more and more treacherous ; that captains and supercargoes had been detained on shore, and extravagant sums demanded for their ransom ; that for upwards of forty years our countrymen had traded with them, and that during that time not one of our na tional armed vessels had ever visited the coast, to afford them any protection.

The Potomac was put in commission in May, 1S31.* She had been ordered to New-York for the purpose of carrying the Honorable Martin Van Buren, minister pleni potentiary to the Court of St. James ; but in consequence of this memorial, President Jackson changed the destination of the ship, and ordered her to proceed immediately * The frigate Potomac was commenced building 19th Aug. 1819, and was launched at Washington in 1822— -hauled up on an inclined plane, and again launched Sept. 1826. Length of keel for tonnage, 145 feet 6 inches. Breadth of beam moulded, 45 " Depth of hold, 14 " 4 " Draught of water launched forward, 12 " 6 " aft, 16 " 8 " She mounts 50 guns, though pierced for 62— carries on her spar deck 32 pound carronades, and on her gun deck 32 pound long guns. CRUISE OP THE POTOiMAC to Sumatra, to punish those who had dared to imbrue their hands in the blood of our countrymen.

Oar disappointment on hearing of the change of the destination of our ship, was great. AH our high hopes and fond expectations of soon visiting " rnerry old England," the land of our forefathers, underwent a total eclipse. The prospects which awaited us were none of the most brilliant or en chanting. To contending elements we expected to be exposed ; but in addition to this, we were to visit a race of barbarians, and be subject to sickly and inhospitable climes, the influence of which must necessarily shorten human life. The ship being ready for sea, with a first-rate crew of five hundred men, and appropriate stores, on the morning of the twenty-fourth we weighed anchor and left New- York. When the pilot-boat left us, we sent our final farewells to our friends on shore. At such a moment, when the last hold on our country is sundered from us, the kinder feelings ofthe soul are awakened.

Our friends become more than ever endeared to us, and every thing connected with them wears an increasing interest. The Commodore paced the deck with agitation. There vvas a sadness on the countenances of many, and a little quiver ing of the lip. To me, even the song of the men while heaving the lead, which under other circumstances might have been grateful music, had in it a dirge-like sound. Our native land was soon out of sight, and as we caught the last glimpse, it did not fail to call forth " the voice of sorrow from the bursting heart." CATCHING A SHARK. On the third day out there was every appearance of an approaching gale. By the expertness of those skilled in nautical science, the ship was soon under snug and easy sail, and we waited for the spirit of the storm. An awful stillness prevailed for a few moments, when we encoun tered the discharge of the gathered tempest.

The lightning gleamed, the thunder pealed, the rain fell in torrents, but the ship stood on her course, as though she heeded them not. A few ofthe landsmen were panic-struck, and would scarcely stir at the orders of the officers. Sea sickness commenced, and but few escaped its prostrating influence. On the sixteenth of September we boarded a French ship from Bordeaux, bound to Martinique, and sent letters by her to our friends. An incident occurred about this time, which afforded a little amusement. It vvas reported that a man had fallen overboard. There was a general rush to the spar deck — the ship was hove to — the boat was lowered — all was breathless anxiety — when the man proved to be a mere sailor's hammock ; but that there might not be too much waste of sensibility, Bruin, the bear, capering upon the shrouds of the vessel, broke his hold, and made a plunge into the briny waves, from which he was afterwards extricated with no small difficulty.

The taking of a shark always produces considerable excitement on board ; and not long after the above men tioned incident, I had an opportunity to observe the pro cess. A large hook, baited with a piece of salt pork, and lowered into the water, is seized by the voracious mon- 2* ster, when a noose of a rope is thrown around the tail, by which means the sailors succeed in dragging up the prey, which comes floundering on deck, at the same time opening its wide jaws as if ready to devour every thing on board. The one we took measured ten feet in length, and furnished the sailors many a choice meal. Sharks frequently follow the track of a vessel for days together, and during a calm are often found in great numbers. On the twenty-first, we made the Cape deVerde islands, so called from a cape of the same name on the coast of Africa, near the river Gambia.

St. Antonia came first in sight, with its top lost in the clouds ; and being the first land that we had made since leaving America, every one was eager to catch a full view of it. It is a misnomer, surely, to call this a green cape : for to appearance it was nothing but a barren sand waste. The next morning brought us in sight of Brava, said to be the most fertile of the group, and the safest and best place to call for refreshments. Accordingly we hove to, and sent a boat on shore for some fresh fruit and vegetables. Here the pros pect was a little more cheering. There was, however, nothing of that luxuriance on the island, which we expected to find in tropical climes. A little verdure on the sides and near the summit, upon which flocks of goats, and a small herd of cattle were grazing; some shrubbery and brushwood, with here and there an inferior looking cot tage, a small plot of cultivated land, and a few naked precipices, were all that greeted our sight.

Only two or THE CAPE DE VERDE ISLANDS. 15 three inhabitants were to be seen. A stroll of a few hours over its hills would have afforded us an agreeable pastime. The boat returned, not being able to effect a landing, in consequence of the surf beating so high. We were some what disappointed, as our appetites were well set for some rich fruit ; but we had an abundance of " salt junk and hard tac " on board, and with these we made friends for the time being. We were becalmed here during the day, and a torrid sun pouring its full blaze upon us, rendered our stay quite uncomfortable. The island of Fogo, or San Felipe de Fuego, was visi ble at a short distance from us, and from the apex of a cone on the mountain in the centre, we could distinctly discern the eruption of volcanic fire. Towards sunset a fine breeze sprung up, and our ship proudly stood off on her course.

The Cape de Verde islands, discovered in 1460 by the Portuguese, and still subject to the crown of Portugal, form a group of about twenty in number, including those of the smallest size, which are unimportant. They for merly contained a population of about forty thousand, but at present are very sparsely inhabited. They are all more or less mountainous, with scarcely verdure enough upon them for the subsistence ofthe inhabitants and their cattle. The people, exiled as they are from the world, with most of the channels of communication cut off between them and other countries, are dependent chiefly for what ever sustenance their own islands do not afford, upon ves sels casually stopping at them. The trade is generally carried on by barter. From the time of their first dis covery, they have been subject at intervals to severe drought and famine.

The rain of heaven is often with held for several years in succession, at which time all the sources of fertility are dried up, and the people and their cattle perish for want of food and water. It is not sur prising therefore to learn, that after the visit of our ship, other mariners found every thing upon them scathed and scorched, and the inhabitants in a famishing state. This occurred in 1832, as will be recollected by our readers, when large donations were made in the city of New-York, and other parts of the United States, for their benefit ; with which provisions were purchased and sent them. On the third of October a sail was reported in sight. The spy-glasses were eagerly seized, and the maneuvers ofthe ship closely watched. As we were off the coast of Africa, we were suspicious that it was a slaver.

Sometimes she appeared to be bearing down upon us, at others, standing from us under a full press of sail. All heads were instantly ordered down. Our ship was immediately disguised by running in the guns and closing the ports, and a chase was commenced. We kept on the pur suit during the afternoon and night, and noticed that she tacked ship several times : from this circumstance, we thought it apparent that she wished to avoid us, and this excited our suspicions the more. We "overhauled" her the next day, and she proved no piratical craft, but an English vessel, an innocent merchantman, bound to Per nambuco. There vvas much laughter on board at this CATCHING DOLPHINS. discovery, and some jokes were passed upon several ofthe officers, who had been actively engaged with their pen cils in estimating the prize money, and in making an equal division of it among themselves.

When in the latitude of about two degrees north, we took the regular south-east trade winds, and crossed the equator in the twenty-fourth degree of west longitude, but without receiving a visit from " Old Neptune," or any of his attendants, much to the gratification of us " green horns," the barbarous custom having been discontinued in the American service, amid these days of light and knowledge ! On the fourteenth, large shoals of dolphins were seen playing about the ship, and several fine ones were hauled on board. Though they are ranked by medical writers among poisonous fish, yet they were given to the cook, and seve ral of the officers partook rather freely, and experienced injurious effects from them. Some were affected with blindness, others were seized with giddiness and violent vomiting ; their eyes at the same time being blood-shot, and their faces red and swollen.

But thanks to medical assistance, they suffered no permanent injury. Those who had partaken sparingly, experienced no deleterious effects. The dolphin is a beautiful fish : when seen under wa ter, the color of its back is sky blue, its fins of burnished silver, and its tail like a sheet of gold. Those which we caught, afforded us an opportunity of observing how remarkably this fish varies its colors from yellow to blue, in the agonies of death.

Chapter II

Rio de Janeiro— Scenery— Ships of foreign nations— Don Pedro— Stale of the country— Notice of the inhabitants — Slaves — City prison — Public gardens — Houses -Market — Public buildings— Museum — Academy of fine arts — Public library — Emperor's country palace — Praya Grande— Chamber of Deputies — House of Lords— Burial of a child — Description of the churches — Fountains — Aqueducts — Social entertainments — Gloria Hill. On the afternoon ofthe fifteenth of October, we made Cape Frio, a high, irregular point of land at the distance of forty miles, and the day following anchored in the harbor of Rio de Janeiro, after a passage of fifty-one days from Sandy Hook. The morning had been showery, but this did not prevent our obtaining a view of the noble scenery about the .coast, which for richness and beauty stands unrivalled.

The harbor is one of the finest in the world, being perfectly secure and capacious, and well adapted to com mercial purposes. On one side of its entrance is the Sugar-loaf, an overhanging rock of granite which rises nearly a thousand feet above the level of the sea. Its appearance is singularly imposing, as it is entirely naked, with the exception of a few tufts of moss, growing upon its summit, and an occasional shrub which may be seen in the crevices upon its sides. On the other side of the harbor is the castle of Santa Cruz, built upon a huge mass of granite, mounting twenty-three heavy guns towards the sea, and thirty-three to the westward and northward, with the small fortified island of Fort Lucia nearly abreast of it. These form the chief defence of the harbor. The shores are indented with small sandy bays, and embellished with cottages and plantations.

The distance of four miles from the mouth of the harbor to the city is interspersed with islands, some of which are entirely covered with verdure, and others with batteries and dwelling-houses. The view from the ship was one of surpassing beauty, exciting in the mind emotions of irrepressible admiration. There was none of the wild grandeur of our American scenery, there were no majestic forests, sturdy oaks, tall pines or waving fields of grain and Indian corn, but the banana, the orange tree, and the tall and slender palmetto, rose up from the carpet of fresh and vivid green, while villas, churches and convents, were sprinkled in charming variety, imparting to the whole an enchanting and Eden like appearance, peculiar to tropical regions. The view was terminated in the distance by a range of lofty mountains, rising in a variety of fantastic forms, and covered with foliage of living green '' whose sun bright summits mingling with the sky," " cliffs of shadowy tint," and masses of moving clouds, gave to the whole prospect, an air of sombre magnificence rarely equalled.