A Brief Account of the Researches and Discoveries in Upper Egypt, made under the direction of Henry Salt, Esq. ... To which is added, a detailed catalogue of Mr. Salt's collection of Egyptian antiquities, illustrated with twelve engravings ... and an enumeration of those articles purchased for...

Chapter I

Domestic history of the author — Colonel Missett takes him to Alexandria — Recommends him to Mr. Salt, who employs him as interpreter — Obliged to quit Alexandria on account of the plague — Perform quarantine at Boulak — Salt resolves on exploring Upper Egypt — Belzoni's introduction to Salt — His expedition into Egypt— Head of Young Memnon — Belzoni's disappointments, and the author's account of their cause — Second expedition, which the author accompanies — Commence excavations at the Temple of Karnak — Proceed on towards Nubia — Temple of Aboo Simbel — Thebes — Gourna — Tombs of the Kings — Belzoni projects an excursion to the Pyramids — Manœuvres to obtain consent of the Pacha — Entrance to the second Pyramid discovered — Salt's claim to the honours of the discovery vindicated against Belzoni, whose veracity is impeached . -. 1

Chapter II

M. Calliaud's pretended discovery of the City of Berenice — Salt sends the author and others to the spot, to clear up the error — Mountain Temple— The emerald mines CONTENTS. PAGE of the Ptolemies — Sulphur mines near the Red Sea — Relation of the old Arab, who guides them to the real City of Berenice — Description of the Temple and Port of Berenice — Return 26

Chapter III

Arrive at the Nile — Meet Mr, Salt and his companions at Thebes — Set off for the second cataract — Mr. Belzoni makes extraordinary claims against Mr. Salt — Is dismissed his employ — Arrival at the second cataract — Proceed to Dongola ; Adventures by the way — The Temple of Amara — Anecdote of Burckhardt — Impediments thrown in the way of the travellers by Mohammed Kashef — In consequence of which they give up their expedition to Dongola, and return to Alexandria 37

Chapter IV

Departure of Messrs. Banks and Beechy for England — Mr. Salt's serious illness — The author is sent to superintend the excavations at Thebes — Curious Greek mummies — Five different methods of embalmment described — Accidental discovery of Rolls of papyrus inclosed in the black wooden idols found in the cases of mummies — Three mummies of musicians, with their instruments and wine flasks — Wonderful preservation of articles in the climate and soil of Thebes ... 50

Chapter V

Relics found in the Temple at Karnak — The author disputes the supposed use of iron among the ancient CONTENTS. V rAOB G6 79 Egyptians — Tombs at Abydos — Domestic articles and ornaments found in the ancient tombs of Thebes and elsewhere — Funereal Boats employed for carrying the dead to Necropolis — Curious wooden model of a house — Description of two beautiful mummies . .

Chapter VI

Rolls of Papyrus only used by the priests and wealthier classes — Substitutes adopted by the poorer people — Parchment — Proofs that it was in use amongst the ancient Egyptians — Scarabæi — Curious funereal ceremonies — Method of embalmment used at Memphis — Sepulchral vases, or canopi — Antiquities at Elithios .

Chapter VII

Tombs at Gheezeh — Accumulation of the soil ou the banks of the Nile — Friendly hints to travellers in / Egypt — Some of Belzoni's statements disputed by the author — Greek mummies at Thebes and Abydos — Curious Greek Manuscript on papyrus found near the two Colossi — A goldsmith's portfolio — Ravages of the early Christians in Egypt 92

Chapter VIII

Misunderstanding between M. Calliaud and the author — Interesting tomb in which the whole process of wine-pressing is painted — M. Lignon's discoveries and projected expedition to Timbuctoo — Excessive heat of the climate — Advice to travellers . . . .105 VI CONTENTS. PAGE

Chapter IX

Interesting particulars of the appearance of a tomb on being first discovered — Description of its interior on being opened — Enumeration of all the various antiquities contained in it — the difference of the several kinds of tombs at Thebes and Abydos — The various qualities of the mummies there found ; and their original position — Tombs at Memphis, &c 116

Chapter X

A few observations on the customs and manners of the Arabs — The tribes of Gourna — Their marriage customs, &c. — Their law of murder — Funerals at Karnak — The Copts — Hospitality of the Arabs of Upper Egypt — Their method of dating — The dog-nosed thief-hunters 130 Appendix — Introduction 149 Catalogue of Mr. Salt's Collection of Egyptian Antiquities j INDEX TO THE PLATES. Plate I. — Frontispiece. One of the two Sphinxes, in red granite, discovered by Giovanni D'Athanasi in the Temple of Amunoph at Thebes. They were situated about six hundred feet behind the vocal Statue of Memnon, but much below the level of that Statue, evidently forming the entrance to another temple of an earlier date. These two Sphinxes now form the principal objects of Egyptian Antiquity at St. Petersburgh. Plate II. page 161.

Statue in calcareous stone, No. 133. Plate III. page 183. 1. A Dagger, No. 409. 2, 3,4. The three Painters' Instruments, which were found as noticed in the catalogue. No. 245, with the painted board. Plate IV. page 185, The Tablet, No. 429. Plate V. page 197. The Tablet, No. 576. Plate VI. page 217. The Statue of Hor-Phocrat, No. 811 Plate VII. page 217. The Statue of a king, No. 812. INDEX TO THE PLATES. VIII Plate VIII. page 218. Statue of a Queen, No. 821. Plate IX. page 221. Statue in Basalt, No. 838. Plate X. page 221. Bust of Rameses, No. 839. The lower portion of this bust has been admirably restored with the fragments, and now forms an interesting object in the British Museum. The Statue represents King Rameses as holding in his hands a tablet, supported on either side by a vase. On this tablet are various offerings engraved.

Plate XI. page 227 1. A Wooden Spoon for offerings, No. 503. 2 and 3. The Vase and Instruments, No. 892. 4. A Wooden Spoon, No. 651. 5. A Mirror, No. 267. Plate XII. page 245 1. Front View of the Mirror, No. 1084. 2. A side View of the same. 3. An Ivory Spoon, No. 786. 4. A small Wooden Spoon, No. 231. 5. The Pair of Pincers, No. 268.* 6. One of the Paint Brushes, No. 520.

Preface

. After a residence of eighteen years at Thebes, entirely devoted to its objects of antiquity, I arrived in this country for the purpose of giving my assistance in the disposal of the collection of Egyptian Antiquities, formed by me, under the direction of the late Henry Salt, Esq. and in which I had with his executors an equal interest. In the advertisement of the sale catalogue of that collection it was stated, that previous to the sale by public auction, I would publish a brief account of some few of the most interesting researches that I had made during my long sojourn in Egypt. It may be, therefore, necessary for me to explain the cause of this work not having previously made its appearance. I would in the X

PREFACE.

. first place mention, that my Journal was origi nally written by me in the Greek language, and that ere I left Leghorn for this country, I en trusted it to a friend, who undertook to translate it into the French language; doubting not, that shortly after my arrival here I should receive it. In this I was sadly disapppointed : much delay from various circumstances took place in its trans mission to this country, and much more in its translation into English, owing to my friend at Leghorn not entirely understanding the modern Greek ; a circumstance which will fully account for the errors occasionally occurring in the names of places and persons, such as Calliot for Calliaud. Misfortunes shortly after occurring to the book seller who had purchased my manuscript, caused a still further delay, and has thus obliged me to publish it on my own account.

Reverting to the subject of the Antiquities, I would observe, that in the collection I brought over to this country, there was the mummy of a priest, contained in a case, for an account of

PREFACE.

. XI which the reader is referred to the annexed catalogue, No. 986. After the discovery that had then been made by the Rev. Mr. George Tom linson and others, of the case having belonged to the mummy of a king, I promised that I would obtain, from those employed in my service in Upper Egypt, every information 'possible on the subject. I have now much pleasure in being able to state in confirmation of this discovery, that during the researches made by the Arabs in the year 1827, at Gourna, they discovered in the mountain, now called by the Arabs, Il-Dra-Abool-Naggia, a small and separate tomb, containing only one chamber, in the centre of which was placed a sarcophagus, hewn out of the same rock, and formed evidently at the same time as the chamber itself; its base not having been detached.

In this sarcophagus was found the above-mentioned case, with the body as originally deposited. The moment the Arabs saw that the case was highly ornamented and gilt, they immediately, from their experience

PREFACE.

. in such matters, knew that it belonged to a person of rank. They forthwith proceeded to satisfy their curiosity by opening it, when they discovered, placed around the head of the mummy, but over the linen, a diadem, composed of silver and beautiful mosaic work, its centre being formed of gold, representing an asp, the emblem of royalty. Inside the case, alongside the body, were deposited ■ two bows, with six arrows, the heads of which were tipped with flint. The Arabs on discovering their rich prize, im mediately proceeded to break up the mummy, as was their usual custom, for the treasures it might contain, but all the information I have been able to obtain -as to the various objects they found, is, that the Scarabæus, which was purchased by the British Museum, from Mr. Salt's collection, (see catalogue, No. 209), was placed on the breast, without having, as is usual, any other ornament attached to it. The custom which prevails among the Arabs, of their selling separately, and to different persons,

PREFACE.

. XIII objects of antiquity found together, is really to be lamented. It arises from their wish to conceal from the chief of their village the riches they possess, which they effectually do, by selling these objects at long intervals. I hope, however, ere long to be able to discover where this above-mentioned precious diadem is to be found, and also many other objects of interest that doubtless the mummy of this king must have contained. Again reverting to subjects of Egyptian Anti quity, I trust I shall be pardoned for here giving the substance of a proposition made by me in the year 1833, to the Trustees of the British Museum for the removal of the Obelisk of Karnac, presented by the Viceroy of Egypt to this Government. The Obelisk is situated in front of the portico of the Temple of Karnac, at Thebes, and could be transported with the same facility as that for merly at Luxor. It would appear, and with reason, that from the Obelisk at Karnac being

PREFACE.

. one-third larger and heavier; at least ten times the distance from the Nile, and surrounded by obstacles which the other had not, the difficulties and expenses to be incurred would be much greater in proportion. Notwithstanding, however, all these difficulties its removal could be accomplished with the same facility, with greater security, and certainly at one-third the expense incurred in the removal of that at Luxor. The French government granted the sum of eight hundred thousand francs for the removal of this object, independent of the use of instruments and other necessary material from the Arsenal at Toulon ; the consequence of which was, that with the exception of sixty or seventy thousand francs for the hiring of vessels, the remainder of the eight hundred thousand francs was appropriated to the expenses attendant upon the workmen, an expense not only unnecessary but perfectly super fluous. For example, the French government uniform ly employed European workmen, one hundred

PREFACE.

. XV of whom came over from France, accompanied by an architect and an engineer. They remained at Thebes fourteen months, much time of which was lost in consequence of the bad arrangement that was made with the vessel built expressly for the purpose of conveying the obelisk; and from -their inexperience in the navi gation of the Nile, they were unable to get down to the mouth of the river in time for the overflowing of the water, thereby incurring the risk of not being* able to get out of the river that year without considerable expence and fatigue. All this expence and hazard might have been avoided had they employed the Arabs, who are fully capable with one to direct them, of undertaking such a task. From the experience I have obtained in the removal of objects of Antiquity, during my residence in Egypt, I have no hesitation in stating, that I could undertake the enterprise of lowering and conveying the Obelisk of Karnac to the mouth of the Nile, for the sum of £10,000, being

PREFACE.

. £40,000 less than that expended by the French government ere they received their Obelisk at Paris. GIOVANNI D'ATHANASI. July 14th. PERSONAL NARRATIVE.

Chapter I

Domestic history of the author — Colonel Missett takes him to Alexandria — Recommends him to Mr. Salt, who employs him as interpreter — Obliged to quit Alexandria on account of the plague— Perform quarantine at Boulak — Salt resolves on exploring Upper Egypt — Belzoni's introduction to Salt — His expedition into Egypt — Head of Young Memnon — Belzoni's disappointments, and the author's account of their cause — Second expedition, which the author accompanies — Commence excavations at the Temple of Karnak — Proceed on towards Nubia — Temple of Aboo Simbel — Thebes — Gourna — Tombs of the Kings — Belzoni projects an excursion to the Pyramids — Ma nœuvres to obtain consent of the Pacha; — Entrance to the second Pyramid discovered — Salt's claim to the honours of the discovery vindicated against Belzoni, whose veracity is impeached.

I should never have thought of laying before the public the slightest account of my adventures and proceedings during my sojourn in Upper Egypt, and more especially in the celebrated Thebes, but for the oft-repeated suggestions of several English travellers, who urged me to do so. B DOMESTIC HISTORY OF THE AUTHOR. Since I have at length undertaken the task, I will, before going further, briefly relate a few of the circumstances connected with my parentage, and the place of my birth. Lemnos, an Island in the Egean Sea, as fertile as it is unfortunate, is my birth-place. In the capital of the same name I first saw the light. My parents were of the middling class of people. My father had long been living at Cairo, where he carried on a small trade. When I was in my tenth year I expressed a wish to go and join him there, but my mother opposed the proposition, fearing that if I once left her she would never see me again.

As, however, I did not cease from daily tormenting her with my importunities ; she at length consented to my embarking on board a ship which was about to sail for Alexandria. It was on the 7th of August, 1809, that I quitted my native place, and on the 11th of September following I arrived at Cairo. The 11th of September was to me a day of astonishment and delight. Accustomed as I had hitherto been in my own country to see very few people, my senses were bewildered on finding myself placed, as if by enchantment, in the midst

Introduction

TO MR. SALT of a town in which there were so many thousand inhabitants. After residing about a twelvemonth with my father, I went in company with a merchant to E .inos, where I remained two years, during which time I regularly attended a school ; but I did not learn much. At the end of the above period I returned to Alexandria, and from thence to Cairo, where I had the happiness of embracing my mother and my brothers, whom my father had sent for to join him there, not being able to go to Lemnos himself on account of his commercial engagements. I remained with my family until the year 1813. In the early part of March in that year I went out to service in the establishment of Colonel Missett, the Consul- General of Great Britain, who was then at Cairo ; and on the 13th of that month I accompanied that gentleman to Alex andria, where Mr. Salt, the new Consul-General had just arrived.

Colonel Missett being about to remove to Italy in order to take the baths at Pisa, enquired of me with paternal kindness whether I chose to accompany him to Europe or preferred returning to Cairo with Mr. Salt. I reflected upon the matter b PLAGUE AT ALEXANDRIA. for a short time before replying to him, but it was not long ere my spirit reverted to Cairo, where were my affectionate mother, my father, and my brothers, whom I was desiring anxiously to see again ; and with tears in my eyes I answered him that I could not make up my mind to part from my relations. Colonel Missett approved of my sentiments, and did not fail to recommend me to Mr. Salt, begging him to employ me as inter preter in Arabic and Turkish, and assuring him that I should prove very useful to him. As the plague had already commenced its ravages, we quitted Alexandria, travelling by land, and towards evening we arrived at Rosetta, where Mr. Lentz, the British agent, had already exerted himself to get ready the necessary ar rangements for our passage by the river to Cairo; — so that the day after our arrival at Rosetta we went on board, accompanied by Mr. Lentz, who was to direct us to a place called Ali Hamat, where was encamped with some thousands of his troops, Toussoun Pacha, son of his highness Mohammed Ali.

On our arrival here the Pacha received us with military honours, causing us to pass between two lines of soldiers extending the whole way from the bank of the river to the tent, QUARANTINE AT SUBRA 5 which we speedily entered under a salute of twenty-one guns. After the usual compliments had passed, we resumed our journey, and at the end of eight days reached Subra, where Mohammed Ali had instituted a quarantine on account of the plague, which had broke out with such vigour that upwards of six hundred men a day fell under it. Mr. Salt ordered me to go and seek Mr. Bogoz, the chief interpreter of his highness, and to tell him to make the Consul-General's compliments to his master ; — which mission I executed with every possible precaution not to come in contact with any person. Mr. Bogoz went into the garden where his highness was, and having announced to him the arrival of his friend the Consul-General of Great Britain, communicated to him the complimentary message I had given him.

At the expiration of about a quarter of an hour the interpreter returned to me with the counter salutations of his master, and told me that his hidrness's house at Boulak was at our service for the purpose of performing quarantine, adding that we should be better accommodated when we got into the town. I lost no time in reporting to Mr. Salt all that the interpreter had told me. SOJOURN AT BOULAK. We then left the place, and in a short time arrived at Boulak, where we landed all our luggage, and the next day shut ourselves up in quarantine. As soon as the disorder began to abate a little of its vigour we gave free access to our friends, amongst whom was Mr. Burckhardt, who always turned the conversation to the subject of the celebrated edifices of Upper Egypt, and the antiquities which were to be found there in different directions.

These discourses daily excited increased ardour and curiosity on the part of Mr. Salt. For my own part I was continually importuning his private secretary, Mr. Beechy, who was a fine young man and of promising abilities, to let me know what was the object Mr. Salt had in view in making these enquiries relative to the contents of Upper Egypt, who at length had the goodness to satisfy my curiosity, and informed me that in the course of six or eight months we should be in Upper Egypt. One day Mr. Burckhardt came to us, accompanied by another person, and expressed a desire to speak with Mr. Salt, who on being apprised of their arrival did not keep them waiting long. After some civilities had passed on either side, BELZONI. 7 Mr. Burckhardt introduced his companion to Mr. Salt, informing him that he was Mr. Belzoni, who had lately been employed in the service of the Pacha to direct the machine at Subra, but who in consequence of the intrigues of one Joseph Bocti, had been obliged to give in his resignation.

He spoke to Mr. Salt a great deal about Mr. Belzoni, assuring him that it was a most providential occur rence which had thrown him in the way of such a man, and endeavoured to persuade him to take him into his employ and send him to Upper Egypt. Nothing of the kind, however, was resolved upon in the course of this interview, and things remained as they had been before the arrival of these gentlemen. Some days after Mr. Belzoni returned, accompanied by his wife, who with tears in her eyes began a recital of all the hardships which her husband had suffered in the service of the Pacha. Touched at the sight of her tears, and affected at the 'details of the misfortunes of this family, Mr. Salt at length decided to send Mr. Belzoni into Upper Egypt, acccompanied by his wife and an English servant named James.

It was thus Mr. Belzoni set out for Upper Egypt; but he was not long in meeting with BELZONl's FIRST EXPEDITION. difficulties in his progress, the origin of which was a very simple one, for besides the disadvan tages of an impatient and intractable temperament on his own part, he had for his interpreter a drunken Copt who had served under the French during their expedition in Egypt, and who, unable long to brook the bad treatment he experienced from Mr. Belzoni, did not serve him with zeal and fidelity. That is the reason why Mr. Belzoni always met with fresh obstacles in all his enter prises ; — he complains in the history of his travels of the difficulties which were thrown in his way, but I think he was wrong in doing so. On his return to Cairo he brought with him some specimens of antiquity, and the colossal head of the Younger Memnon, which was sub sequently presented to the British Museum by Messrs. Salt and Burckhardt.

He related to Mr. Salt all the disappointments and all the obstacles he had met with at every step of his journey, and expressed doubts of his being able to proceed further. Mr. Salt, after listening with great attention to all that Mr. Belzoni had been telling him, resolved upon sending Mr. Beechy, his secretary, and myself as interpreter, to assist in furthering the expedition. Having completed THE AUTHOR JOINS HIM. 9 our arrangements we set out in the month of March, 1817, and arrived at Menia at the same time with two men from M. Drouetti, the Consul- General of France, who were going to Thebes for the purpose of exploring. On seeing these two gentlemen Mr. Belzoni became furious, and would have given all he was possessed of in the world to have been able to reach Thebes that very night, and mark out all the ground, in order that M. Drouetti's men, when they arrived, might not find a neutral spot to explore, nor even place sufficient to sit down on.

Such was the length to which Mr. Belzoni's ambition had driven him. On arriving at Raramon, at the sugar manufac tory, Mr. Belzoni and myself procured donkeys and set off for Thebes. At the end of five days' speedy journey, as if we had been carrying the news of the capture of some fortress which had been twenty years beseiged, we arrived at the Temple of Karnak, the ancient Temple of Jupiter, with the hundred gates. There we found, much to the annoyance of Mr. Belzoni, a Dr. Maruki, who was making excavations on his own account. We remained that night at Luxor, and the next day proceeded to Gourna, which means the City of the Dead, where we purchased some pieces of KARNAK. antiquity of very little value; Dr. Maruki, who had arrived before us, having bought up the finest specimens. Moreover we should not even have found what we did to purchase, but for the custom of the Arabs of not choosing to sell at one time and to the same person, all the collection of antiquities which they happen to have ; pre fering rather to sell them from time to time, and to different travellers, in order that they may demand a higher price for them.

We stayed some days in this part of the country, and made some trifling excursions in the neighbourhood of Gourna and of Luxor, but Mr. Beechy not making his appearance to join us, we took a boat from Luxor and proceeded to Kina in search of him, and there we found him. The next day we went to Luxor, and there we passed our nights in the temple and our days at Karnak, where we had already commenced digging. During forty days which we spent in this place we met with nothing remarkable, with the exception of a colossal head of red granite which is now in the British Museum. Besides this we found a hand of a colossal statue of middling dimensions, and an altar of granite with six figures of Deities represented on it. This TEMPLE OF ABOO SIMBEL. 11 last was found behind the granite sanctuary which is at the eastern gate of Karnak.

This portion of the gate, it appears, was rebuilt by the Ptolemies ; for it is even now in very good preservation. We collected very little worthy of notice in the Temple of Jupiter at Thebes ; but the Arabs of Gourna did not fail during our sojourn in that place to bring us a great number of pieces of antiquity, which we paid them well for. As Mr. Salt had given us orders to proceed on to Nubia in order to attempt to open the Temple of Aboo Simbel, we did not delay to commence our journey thither. In a few days we arrived at the first cataract, where we were detained several days waiting for a boat to cross it. During this interim two English travellers, Captain Mangles and Captain Irby arrived, and they proceeded on their journey in our company. When we found that the inhabitants of the place would not work for us in opening the temple, these gentlemen had the goodness to assist ui clearing away the sand, and carried it as far as the bank of the river, by which means, after much fatigue and much distress from hunger, we succeeded in opening this temple.

I need not say any thing of what we suffered during this arduous labour, but will TOMBS OF THE KINGS. only observe, that without the valuable assistance rendered by the above-named gentlemen, we should not have succeeded in our undertaking. After having re-opened the temple we departed, and in three days we arrived at the Isle of Philoe where we found Mrs. Belzoni. The day after our arrival here, Mr. Belzoni left us and embarked for Thebes. Mr. Beechy and myself afterwards did the like in company with our two travelling companions, who on our arrival at Tihebes parted from us. We remained a few days at Thebes to recruit ourselves after our fatigues, and crossed to the opposite side of the river to Gourna, where we determined on commencing our excavations into the Tombs of the Kings, having first divided our Arabs into companies, whom we appointed to work in different quarters.

In the spot where the tomb was discovered, we found a pit of about five feet in circumference, and twelve feet deep, at the bottom of which was a small aperture, through which the water which it had contained had passed. After some days work in clearing away the ground which had accumulated at the foot of the mountain, we arrived at the solid rock, close to which we dug a pit of considerable depth, at the spot where we calculated the tomb to be. We OPENINC* OF THE ROYAL TOMB. 13 then found that the entrance to the tomb was blocked up by the soil which the rain had accumulated against it. The running of the waters, however, had formed a canal of very narrow dimensions, through which a man of small size, entirely stripped, might with difficulty pass. Mr. Beechy on seeing this canal, told me to undress and use every exertion to enter it.

I instantly set to work, accompanied by an Arab, and after a good deal of difficulty attained the edge of the' well which had been made there to receive the rain water, which without that precaution would have damaged the tomb. After a short time I went out for the purpose of giving Messrs. Belzoni and Beechy, who were impatiently awaiting me, the particulars of all that I had seen. The workmen in the meantime continued their labours, and in some hours they had widened the passage so far that Messrs. Belzoni and Beechy were enabled to enter it and advance to the well ; beyond which, through an aperture in the wall was still to be seen the famous pilaster, and a rope ladder attached to the well. It appears that after the interment had been made this ladder had been suspended in order to descend on the following day if occasion should ALABASTER SARCOPHAGUS. be.