The Ansayrii, and the Assassins; with Travels in the further East, in 1850, 51; including a visit to Nineveh

Chapter I

Preparations for the Road — Kindness of Deinetrie — Apia Antoniniana — Assyrian Inscriptions — Chapel of St. George — Prosperity of the Christians — Antiquity of Bells — Their Church History — Maronite Christians — Housta — Hospitable Entertainment — AVoman's Faith — Visit to the Sheik — The Tantoura — Sit Milheim Shebah — The Family of Shebah — Their Conversion — Convent of Ain Wakah — Spinning Pegs of the AVolves — Ta Borge — River of Adonis — Gebail — Arab Hospitality . . . 1

Chapter II

Gebail — Extensive Ruins — Antiquity of Gebail — Batroun — Situation of the Town — A dirty Englishman — Journey to Latakia — Residence of a Robber Chief — Ascent of Djebel Shakkey — The "Face of God" — Road to Tripoli — Gardens of La Moon — Tripoli — Aqueduct of Brins — Turkish Burial-ground — A Female Lounging-place — Beauty of tlie Women — The Kadisha — Convent of Dervishes — The American Consul — Eastern Guards — Pond of Sacred Fish — Arab Encampments — Lady Hester Stanhope — Anecdote of Sir John Moore — Village of El Hah — Tartousa — The Thief detected — Court of Justice — Practise as Physician — Kalat el Merkub — Banias — Different kinds of Bread — Djebele — Arrive at Latakia ....... 26

Chapter III

Latakia — Agreeable Residence — Hospitable Reception — Secret of the Ansayrii — Mode of eliciting it — Extraordinary Sepulchre — Consternation of my Cook — Practise as a Doctor — My Success — Lasting Influence of Moral Evil — The Works of Voltaire — An Arab Ball — An Arab Supper — State of Society — An Irksome Visitor — Moslem Piety — AVant of Christian Unity — A Question CONTENTS. IV PAGE 143 of Divorce — Its unhappy Results — Turkish Insolence — An unpleasant Adventure— Its Results— Bible of Bishop Theodosius — Extract from Arab Bible — List of Ancient Churches — More Practice — Kindness of a AVoman — An Arab Doctor — Prog nostications concerning the Ottoman — AVorship of the Druses — Turkish Liberality — Political Opinions — How to deal with Turks 61

Chapter IV

Besnada — Tomb of Ibn Hani — Astronomical Disquisition — Snake- Charmers and Salamanders — Anecdote of a SDake-Charmer — The Ophigene of Cyprus — Travellers in the East — Wig of Count de la Borde — Kindness of the Ansayrii — Visit from an Ansayri Woman — An Eastern Pic-Nic — A Moral upon Pleasure — The Djebel Mountains — Eastern Music — E<istern Dances Described — Lectured by the Sheik — Hostility of the Priest — Preparations for Departure — Seclusion of the Ansayrii — Religious Bequests — Sheer-el- Akash — Nahr-el-Kebeer — Village of Sholfatia — Tenure of Land in the District — Eastern Love of Parables — Religious Discussions — Strange Mode of Exorcism . . . . .94

Chapter V

District of Mekalbee — Caldahha — Inducement to settle in the East — Extensive Burial Grounds — Description of their Houses — Patience of the People — Present of a Volume of Petrarch — Theological Discussions — Ein-el-Sakarr — Revolted Village — Sheik Habeeb — His Residence described — Its Furniture — Polite conduct of the young Sheiks — The Sheiks of Religion — Superstitious Charms — Castle of Beni Israel — The Prison of Blood — Reasons for Non-improvement — Interesting Conversation — A School established — A few Reflections ..... 121

Chapter VI

Appeal to Christian Sympathies — Zama — A Village of Robbers Kying Aga — Nature of his Influence — The imprisoned Sheik Kalaat Mahalbee — The Castle described — Value of a AVife Recognised as an Ansayrii — Their personal Kindness — Miracles and Charms — The Judge of the Ansayrii — Sheik Shemseen Sultan — The Beit Shielf — Ansayrii hiding-places — Kalaat el Sion — Siege by Ibrahim Pasha — Military Defences — Ruins Hospitality of the Ansayrii — More Ruins — District of Ballidar — Nahr el Kabia — Ibn el Larri — Bedama — Cleanliness of Turkish Villages — Chambers cut in the Rock — Djisser Shogger CONTENTS. V

Chapter VII. Pagf

Djisser Shogger — State of the Village — My Character — Its Solution — Castle of Shogger — The Euphrates Expedition — Population of Shogger — Castle in Ruins — Arabic inscriptions — Ladies criticise my dress — Bigotry of the Turks — History of Mahomet Aga — Strange modes of Litigation — Civility of the Pasha — The Nizam — Drawing the Nizam — Bridge over the Orontes — Village of Arneba — Djerradi — Absence of AVood in Houses — A Surprise in a Vault — Caffir el-Barah — Sad Feelings produced by Ruins — A Set of Braggarts — Opinions of the English .... 172

Chapter VIII

A Christian's feelings in the East — Melancholy ruins at Aleppo — Description of the Houses — Stone Sarcophagi — Serai el Melek — Caffir-el-Barah — Subterranean adventure — Natives of Djebel Kaiha — Kaiha — Edlip — Departure from Edlip — Eternal features of the Ea3t — Lady Hester Stanhope — Bad Government of the Turks — Free Language of the People — Broken spirit of the Christians — Articles in English newspapers — Vile treatment of AVomen — Losses of the Christians — Proposals for repayment — Causes of the rising — Turks educated in Europe — Insult to a Christian Woman — The Mussulmans' loss — The Zapties . . 197

Chapter IX

Destruction of Syrian Manuscripts — Grand review of troops — The Yezidis — Confusion of races and faith — Visit from a despised AVife — Solicits a spell to kill — Range of Amanus — Convent of St. Simon Stylites — St. Simon Stylites — Tennyson's Poem — Inspection of the building — Madness of St. Simon — A beautiful apparition — Domestic felicity — Arabic Robinson Crusoe — Bid farewell to my friends — Numerous Sarcophagi — Namous-el- Melek — Kaa — Beau-ideal of an Oriental — Mussulmans oppressed -Primal beauty of Nature — Dress of the different Races — Ruins at Youngis Shi — Ranges of the Beltan — Distant view of Antioch — Fulfilment of Prophecy 223

Chapter X

A Strange Adventure — Excellent Entertainment — Disquisition upon Babies — Early Fading of Eastern Beauty — An Innocent Hlusion — Household Lecture — Palace of Ibrahim Pasha — Consul's Visitors' Book— Antioch — The Fall of Heraclius— Departure from Antioch — A Beautiful Prospect described — Ain CONTENTS. VI PAGE el Kadmous — A plenitude of Waters — Valley of the Beit el Maa — Groves of Daphne — Account of them in Gibbon — My Fame precedes me — Mythology of Daphne — Village of Sinnini — Djebel Okrah — Residence of Dr. Yates — Swadea — Syrian Character of the Franks — Improvements of Mr. Barker . . 250

Chapter XI

Cheating in the Conscription — Cross the Orontes — Arrival at Djebel Okrah — Halt for the night at Casseb — Christian converts — Zeal of the Missionaries — Extensive pine forests — Reported killed — A tribute to a friend — Endeavour to establish a school — My possessions in the East — Legend of the Unicorn . . . 275

Chapter XII

Jebelee — Mosque of Sultan Ibrahim — Kalaat-el-Muskab — Civility of the Moutselim — Foray of the Ansayrii — Merkab — Tradition of its Erection — Village of Deir Sufran — Character of the Villagers — Theological Discussion with a Priest — Seclusion of Women in Syria — Village of Saradeen — Kalaat-el-Kadmour — Dress of the Peasantry — An Evening with the Ameers — History of their Migrations — The Kadmousie — Work on the East by Mr. Badger — Descendants of Ishmael — Ormuzd and Ahriman — An Ismalee Prayer ......... 287

Chapter XIII

The three Letters commencing the Chapters of the Koran — Mountain of Djebel Seth — Tomb of Joshua — Mockatta of Mowary — Village of Borkah — Borge Safyta — Raid of the Ansayrii on the Christians — Capture of Sheik Abdul Hamyd — Confined at Erzeroum — An extensive Prospect — Necessity of having Religious Principles fortified — District of Kalaat el Hosn — Ruins of Hassan Sulieman — Carried off by the Sheik — Spring of Ein-el- Shem — Ambition seizes me — Wady Shaloof — Village of Brurnmanee .......... 308

Chapter XIV

Summary Punishment — Tartousa— A Story of Eastern Justice A Definition of Nothing — The Day called Lubat Saint — Feast at the Saint's Tomb — Volney's Description of the Ansayrii Feud between the Drousees and Daamees — Miserable Condition of a poor Woman — In the midst of the Battle — Endeavour to act the Mediator — Become Hostage between the Parties Djebel Ermayen, or the Mountain of Forty — My Mode of Life . . 32" CONTENTS. VII

Chapter XV. Page

Pliny's account of the Ansayrii — Emigrate under Sheik Hassan — Account of them by Gibbon — Description ofthe Ansayrii — Their Dress — Sheiks of Government and Religion — Their strict Religious Prejudices — Their Rites and Superstitions — Mode of Ini- - tiation — Manner of their Marriages — Their character for Honesty — Policy of Ibrahim Pasha — Restrictions with regard to Food — Outline of their Creed — Their Modes of Prayer — Treatment of a Frenchman — Antiquity of planting Groves — The Rout of Heraclius — Conspiracy amongst the Greeks — Movement towards Greek Unity — The Armenians compared with the Greeks . . 342

Chapter XVI

Pashalic of Saida — Rule of Ibrahim Pasha — Ruins and Antiquities — Mockattas of the Ansayrii — Their Tribes and Governors — Celebrated for the growth of Tobacco — Nahr-el-Kebir — The French propose to assist the Ansayrii — Village of Hinadee — Quarrel with a Turk — Gross system of Injustice — A Glorious Revel — Contrast between Man and Nature — Dedication of Children to their Saints — Suffering from Fever — A dashing Exploit — Recover my Steed — Tomb of Abdallah el Morovree — The Gardens of Djebele — Piety of Sultan Ibrahim — Apparition of Ibrahim — Magical erection of a Mosque — Borge-el-Sabbee — Strangely-tempered Mortar — Marriage of my Servant — Tartousa — Again practise Medicine — The island of Ruad — Mode of Water Supply — Ruins of ancient Fortifications — The Reiha Saltza — Antiquities in the Island — Visited by the Fariss Knights — The Monte»aseras — Education for Sailors — Songs of the Children — Their dread of Foreigners ........ 363 CHAPTER XVTI.

My singular Fortune in my Travels — Diving for Sponges — I practise Surgery — My great Success — Melancholy Reflections — The Parable of the Olive Plantation — Snake-Charmers — Description of the Sponge Boats — Profits of Sponge — Diving — Antiquities of Tartousa — Temple of the Sun — Sepulchral Excavations — Tel Akka — Sudden Death of Animals in the East— Eastern Guide-Books — Kontaret el Brins — Roguery of the Padre — Rough Treatment of the Missionaries — Their Ideas of Protestantism — A Mussulman and Christian Jury — The Convent of Lazaris — The Frank Padres of Kawbin — Grandeur of Eastern Scenery — The Cedars of Lebanon— The Ranges of Lebanon— CONTENTS. PAGE Vitality of the Cedar Tree — Figurative use of the Cedar in Prophecy — Supply the Moslem Fleet — Opinions of Deeandollc — The Cedars mutilated by Travellers — Peculiar Region of their Growth 400

Chapter XVIII

The Valley of Bshirra — Terraces on the Mountains — Beauty of the Scenery — Importunate Beggars — Intermarriages prevent Patriotism — Dress of the Peasantry — Mode of Irrigation in Syria — Gorge of the Kadisha — Mirage in the Plains of Bekaa — Lake Liemon — Remains of the Temple at Liemon — A Natural Bath — Low Condition of the Village — Effect of Moonlight — Village of Nitri — Village of Afka — Source of the Nahr Ibrahim — Religious Reflections — Village of Ferheika — Ruins of Finkera — Position of Finkera — Nahr el Kelb — Beyrout — Objects and Results of Travel — Conclusion of my Pilgrimage . '. . (THE ASSASSINS.) TRAVELS IN THE EAST.

Chapter I

Preparations for the Road — Kindness of Demctrie — Apia Antoniniana — Assyrian Inscriptions — Chapel of St. George — Prosperity of the Christians — Antiquity of Bells — Their Church History — Maronite Christians — Housta — Hospitable Entertainment — Woman's Faith — Visit to the Sheik — The Tantoura — Sit Milheim Shebah — The Family of Shebah — Their Conversion — Convent of Ain AVakah — Spinning Pegs of the AVolves — Ta Borge — River of Adonis — Gebail — Arab Hospitality. It was not without many pangs that I resolved to exchange all the comforts of the Locanda at Beyrout for a rough, and — although I laughed at those Avho told me so — a rather unsafe road, in the middle of winter, Avith a keen air, and a very clouded sky overhead. Already the storm had broken higher up among the mountains, and the noble front of Djebel Sanin Avas hid, but I travelled for pleasure, Avhich makes a VOL. III.

B vast difference; so, consuming my breakfast with stolid indifference to the suggestions of Demetrie, I ordered my horses and prepared for the road. Oudenak Nargilleh, oudenak Divan, Gibly seiph e gible el Hassan, Ana bidye oum era al herb Ulan miltak * Fergenee el durb."+ " Farewell Nargilleh ! farewell Divan ! Give me my sword, — give me my horse ; I must up and away to the fight. Curse your sect, Christian, show me the road." A shurt, or bazaar, or bargain, had been made the previous day for an animal to carry my only really heavy saddle-bag : what else \Aras mine at Beyrout was borne Avithout much bother under tAvo servants, and a boy bestrode the donkey, which was the only new acquisition I had made. Ibrahim Avas certainly very indig nant at being thus mounted, for the donkey had a will of his own which he seldom failed to gratify, and the Avhole mount hurt his dignity : but, when the road was very bad, he rode my horse, which, being one from the plains, was most unsafe on the passes ; and then I jogged along on the donkey, who, mind ful of himself, was most sure-footed.

The man * They insert narsara also. t The Arabic is very bad ; it is one of the Druse mountaineer's songs. KINDNESS OF DEMETRIE. Avith whom my groom had made the bargain was in due attendance, and brought a colt, of some two years old, to carry the load. On the servants, Avhom I sat watching from the AvindoAv as I smoked my nargilleh, entering a strong remonstrance, he assured them that he kneAv his animal well, and ansAA^ered on his head {a la rassee) for his perfect capability of exe cuting the task assigned him. Calling ATarious persons, not present, to witness to the feats he had performed, the load was therefore put on, and being assured that all was ready, I bade adieu to Demetrie, and departed. I half belieAre this man AA'ould, had I spoken the word, have thrown up the inn and followed my fortunes: he had served me on many of my former expeditions.

As a last gift, he thrust a a parcel into my huge pockets, at Avhich I exclaimed, but aftenvards rejoiced over at the Nahr El Kelb, — four cold roast woodcocks. Avoiding the croAvded and slippery streets, I skirted the toAvn, passed the mosque of St. George, formerly the church of the same name, and, crossing the Nahr El Beyrout," descended * Like all other localities in the East, it is difficult to discover its true B THE ANSAY11II. to the beach AArhich stretches six or seven miles away in a bold sweep, until it runs to the point forming the south side of the Nahr El Kelb. The mountains above rise in graceful beauty, thickly sprinkled Avith Druse and Maronite villages, Avhile here and there a convent rises, like a pinnacle, in strong position ; this is the mountain district of the south, Avhich is bounded by the Nahr El Kelb on the north, and inhabited by a mixed population of Druses and Christians.

Some gypsies live encamped on the Ioav lands, and I passed the herds of the Arabs, Avho come here during the winter months for pasture, returning to the plains of Damascus during the summer. Those I saAV Avere of the Jahesh tribe, a wide spread one ; noAV Fellah, and often sedentary; having thereby lost caste as true Bedawee, they live by the sale of their produce — milk, butter, cheese, and wool, — during their months of sojourn here, in rude stone houses. Ascending the Apia Antoniniana, I passed the carved tablets which have been so often a name. It is, however, generally called the Nahr-el-Beyrwt. Sometimes I have heard it called the Nahr-el-Salib. By some it is supposed to be the Magoras ef Pliny ; but I assign that name to the river two hours farther north. ASSYRIAN INSCRIPTIONS. 5 subject of enquiry ; from my own knowledge I have no hesitation in pronouncing the first to be Assyrian, and have little doubt that it was originally covered with hierogly phics ; these are now quite effaced, though pro bably copies of them might be found in the Avorks of some of the older travellers — the Avhole stone has suffered severely from the Aveather.

The next is flat at the top, Avith numerous ogees, running round, and seems to have been inscribed Avith several toavs of figures. On the upper, Avhich is alone at all distinct, there seem to be Iavo figures facing each other, Avith their arms extended. The figure on the right hand of the observer seems to be kneeling before an altar, the loAver portions are totally obliterated ; the third is like the first, but smaller: in all, Avithin the tablet are holes above and below, as if for doors ; on the second, likewise, are holes in the rock as if for the poles of a scaffold or shed ; one figure is even noAV covered Avith cuneiform characters nearly perfect. If I recollect right, Maundrell speaks of large tables of rock before them, of these I saAV no traces. The third and fourth are loAver doAvn the pass ; they are very much like the others save in the figure, Avhich has long lappels hanging down, but his head-dress, as far as remains, seems similar.

The Roman inscription is farther up, and perfectly legible ; it has already been often read. The bridge above is handsomely built, it is the work of the Ameer Besher, the ancient one having entirely gone to decay. The aqueduct is very picturesque, covered Avith tendrils and creepers, and dropping a glittering shoAver. I should be much inclined to doubt its antiquity. Probably it is modern, built for the purpose it fulfils, that of turning the water on to the higher land on the northern bank. The road now leaves the beach ; I preferred, however, the hard sand, and folloAved it, till a turn in the road brought me in sight of the pretty little seaport of the Kesrowan Kafir Djouni. The road here traverses another narrow pass, Avhere the mountain, descending to the Avater, has been cut to admit it.

There are many marks of quarries here, and the chapel of St. George, excavated in the solid rock. Niches are cut in the cliff above the pass, but for Avhat purpose I PROSPERITY OF THE CHRISTIANS. 7 could not ascertain — probably to light its narrow width for the convenience ofthe night traveller. Passing the village my way turned up the mountains. It Avas impossible not to feel pleased at the apparent prosperity of this exclusively Christian district: groves of young mulberry trees, reared for transplantation in all the fields; the exterior of the houses and the Avhole mountain side was covered with them ; the richly fruited orange and lemon-trees, the neat inclosures, exhibited a scene which made one feel proud that at last the Christian dared improve. Convents and monasteries also were everywhere, and as I wound my way up the tedious road, for the first time for many many months the cheerful holy sound of church bells struck on my ear.

He Avho has long wandered where his faith is a by-Avord and a reproach, where its outvvard symbols are forbidden, where the Christian exists only on sufferance, can feel what I then felt. Deeply attached to my OAvn, as the true, the only faith, I can yet acknowledge that others are good ; and here the sound struck on my ear as the voice of my own dear loved mother would have done. I sat and listened, Avhile the servants and baggage, unmoved, continued their ascent. Scenes long past seemed re-enacting before me — summer days and Sabbath bells again, the calm of a country Sunday. " Is there a time when moments flow More peacefully than all beside ? - It is of all the times below, A Sabbath eve at summer tide." Even the knoAvledge that I was a sojourner in a holy land, a pilgrim on a pilgrimage, a seeker after knowledge, a traveller, wandering — all could not stifle the sigh breathed for the land I had left, the home I might revisit no more.

The antiquity of the bell for holy uses is undoubted. We read in the instructions given to Moses on the Mount respecting the garments of the priesthood (Exodus xxviii.), it is spe cified that there should be set a golden bell and a pomegranate alternately on the hem of the garment round about ; the use and intent of these bells being to give intimation Avhen the priest goeth in unto the holy place before the Lord, and when he cometh out. (Verses 34, 35.) Bells also were used in the earliest ages for secular purposes. In the heroic age the Grecian CHURCH HISTORY OF BELLS. officers visited the sentries with a bell as a signal of watchfulness. A bellman (iodonophorus) Avalked some distance before funeral processions. We read that bells Avere used on the camels that took Joseph aAvay Avhen sold into bondage by his brothers.

Their first application to church purposes as Ave at present use them is ascribed by Polydore Virgil, and others, to Paulinus, Bishop of Nola, a city of Campania, about the year a.d. 400. If for no other cause, Ave must thank them as the means whereby we gained the toAver, steeple, or belfry to church architecture, Avhich, Avhile it confers a finish, is so especial a mark of the building being set apart for the worship of the Most High. Sir Henry Spelman quotes in his Glossary, two old monkish lines, which admirably describe their uses — " Laudo Deuni verum, plebem voco, congrego clerurn ; Defunctos ploro, pestem fugo, festa decoro." The deprivation of them was and is considered still a great disgrace, a public calamity. Henry V. took, as a mark of his triumph, the bells of Calais, and bestowed them on his native place, Monmouth.

Probably they were numerous and rich formerly in the well-endowed churches of the East ; but the Moslem hordes forbade their use, and melted down the sanctified metal for baser purposes. As yet I have been unable to discover the date of their use in the KesroAvan, though it is not very ancient, pro bably ; however, it now exclusively possesses this privilege; elsewhere this holy sound is hushed. No holy summons " Bids the sons of mirth be glad ; And tells of sorrow to the sad, — Reflection to the wise." The province of Kesrowan is the principal stronghold of the Maronites. Except a few Christians of other sects, there are no other inhabitants ; * and though they are extensively scattered through the other places, here they are unmolested. Formerly the tyranny and general misrule operated here, of course, but then the people were not subject to the petty exactions and constant personal degradation imposed on those who were scattered among * The Greek and Armenian Christians of the Kesrowan are treated by the Maronites much as the Christians elsewhere are treated by the Mussulmans.

There are a few also of other sects, but too few to men tion. The French assert the Maronites are under their protection, from what cause it would be difficult to discover ; their influence is very great, and they are generally great haters of the English. H0USTA. 11 the Moslems and other sects. At Djouni is the bazaar Avhence the whole district is supplied ; and Avhen I passed through it, it was so thronged as to induce me to ask if it Avas any particular day; but they told me there Avas the same concourse daily. There is also a soap manu factory, which does a large business. Up by many a weary turn till Ave gained the very crest of the range nearer the sea, and on one side our vieAv extended from Tripoli to Beyrout, while on the other a deep valley, wide and Avoody, opened far down to the south.

The smoke of a hundred cottages rose up and joined the thickening mists. To my repeated inquiries of Avhere the village was to which I Avas going, the ansAver Avas "Folk — folk," (higher up — higher up.) The road was execrable ; the sun set, the wind rose in keen and powerful gusts ; but Ave reached the village and the house of the gentleman I bore a letter to at last. Spite of a swelled face, he hastened out to Avelcome me, and Avithout reading the letter ushered me in with Eastern Avelcome. The village of Housta* is very prettily situated » It might be pronounced Gou3ta also. at the head of a valley, which runs up from the sea, of which it commands a noble view. The strata of the rock are perpendicular, Avhich detracts from its beauty; but the heights are bold, and where not cultivated are covered Avith mountain pine.

The village is large, and has six churches — for, as my host told me, Avhenever the people can make up money they straightway build a church — and it is a particularly agreeable village for a sojourn, as there are thirty or more sheiks, or rather families, of gentle blood resident in it. The change Avas agreeable from the cold bleak mountain breeze, to a large lofty Avell-Avarmed room, and a hearty Avelcome : the servants bustled about, and placed the divans ; and the company, (for many neighbours were there chatting aAvay the evening,) sat upon them. In the East, as elsewhere, people live their best before strangers, and try to sIioav their best to the world, not using all and enjoying it, not really showing themselves as they are. It is well Avhen it is only the furniture which is thus kept for show ; some keep, also, all their manners, accomplishments, and better selves HOSPITABLE ENTERTAINMENT. for public days.

The letter of introduction being at length read, " On my head be it to do you all honour," said my host. After the refresh ing glass of sherbet, we began a lively conver sation ; he asking and I detailing such news as seemed to interest. Nargilleh, coffee, and at last the glass of rakkee Avhich precedes all meals, were introduced ; then the little low table for supper appeared ; my fasting stomach Avelcomed its presence : a clean cloth was spread, and bread plentifully laid round. The food Avas capital, fish from Djouni, and the pure dry mountain Avine ; my host and the rest sat round Avith delicacy eating a little to cover the gene I might \\ave felt at eating alone ; hands washed, coffee again, and AAre carried on our conversation deep into the night. My host, Sheik Youseph Bittar, was a most liberal-minded, intelligent man, and Ave dis cussed many questions I should not have ventured on before many of his countrymen.

The conversation Avas principally on the Sultan's expected conscription among the Christians, and many were the conjectures as to the truth of the report or not ; one even asserting the order had arrived, and Avas Avith the Pasha at Beyrout. My host's opinion Avas at once bold and manly; he said, "We are the Sultan's servants, and if he calls on us, will serve him manfully, but it will never do to put Christians and Turks together. Let the Sultan raise Christian regiments, com manded by Christian officers, and he Avill have no better troops in his army." At last all retired, and I slept on mattresses spread on the floor ; the rain poured down in torrents, and the Avind sighed dolefully among the mountains. I slept again, and awoke Avith the sun smiling, and pleasant church bells ringingoutfor prayers : it was the sabbath morning.

Washing after the native fashion, I sauntered out and watched Avith pleasure the troops of white-veiled Avomen as they defiled along the mountain tracks, now appearing in bold relief, now hid by huge rocks. They were on their Avay to church, and seemed here, as elsewhere, to be the principal portion ofthe congregation. Woman's nature, more soft, plastic, and yielding, their occupations homely and unexcit ing, all lead them to be more acted upon by reli gion : and here, where all are outAvardly, at least, VISIT TO THE SHEIK. 15 devout, and thoroughly priest-ridden, I counted that six times as many women passed as men. Coffee over, my host's son, a noble felloAv, pro posed we should go and pay visits to the neighbouring sheiks ; Ave accordingly trudged up, and reached a house in no wise superior to those of the common villagers ; it consisted of one room, some five-and-twenty feet long, built of rough hewn stones, the roof formed of poles laid on the walls, bushes over them and thin earth piled on the top ; the whole rammed down, and so rendered water-tight.