Glimpses of Spain; or notes of an unfinished tour in 1847

Front matter

GLIMPSES OF SPAIN; OR, NOTES OF AN UNFINISHED TOUR, IN 184 7. BY S. T. WALLIS. NEW YORK: HARPER & BROTHERS, PUBLISHERS, 82 CLIFF STREET. 184 9. Entered, according to Act of Congress, in the year one thousand eight hundred and forty - nine, by Harper & Brothers, in the Clerk's Office ofthe District Court ofthe Southern District of New York. TO THE CHEV. DON JOSE ANTONIO PIZARRO, H. C. Id. VICE-CONSUL IN BALTIMOBE, THIS LITTLE WORK Kb KcspectfuUs atiB a.ffect_onat*l£ Unscrflirt..

Preface

The author would not do himself, or the country which he has attempted to describe in part, the injustice of publishing this volume, without desiring its humble pretensions to be distinctly understood. The subject was not unfamiliar to him, before his visit to Spain ; and his opportunities for observation and information, while there, were, perhaps, better than those which strangers commonly enjoy. The period and limits of his intended tour were, however, so materially abridged, that, if the results of his ob servation had been unfavorable to the country, he would have deemed it hardly fair to give them cur rency. The contrary being the case, he is persuaded that his conclusions are, on that account, the more likely to be just, so far as they go ; and he is willing to incur the risk of their being deemed superficial and imperfect, under the conviction that they can do no harm, and may, perhaps, throw light upon a picture, which has been often, he believes, unduly darkened by prejudice and misinformation. VI

PREFACE.

. For the frequent appearance of the personal pro noun in the narrative, the author has no apology but the impossibility of avoiding it without assuming a graver tone than accorded with his plan. Should a lack of that "stirring incident" be noted, which is looked for in such books, he begs it may be attributed to his ill fortune, in having met with nothing of the sort, except what he describes. A few banditti would have made a livelier story, and could have been readily improvised ; but it is a melancholy fact that there is, now, small risk of life or limb in Spain, comparatively speaking ; and the author did not feel that he would be justified, under such circumstances, in con firming the present popular impression, that life in the Peninsula is still a mixture of the adventures of Gil Bias and the exploits of Don Quixote. Baltimore, October, 1849. CONTENTS

Chapter I

Departure srom Marseilles — La Ciotat — Fellow-travelers — English Tourists — Arrival at Barcelona, and Tribulations at the Custom-house — The Rambla and the People on Promenade — - Theophile Gautier — Marseilles and Barcelona contrasted — Public Buildings — The Cathedral — Christopher Columbus . . . 13

Chapter II

Easter Eggs — La Mona — High Mass on Easter Sunday — A ride to Gracia — Montjuich — Notre Dame de la Garde — The Plaza de Toros, and Yankee Company — Opening of the Great Opera House — Social Habits of the Bareelonese — Musical Tastes „ 26

Chapter III

The Catalans — English Philanthropy and the Cotton-question — Smuggling and Prohibitive Laws — Protective Policy and Free- Trade — Don Javier de Burgos 36

Chapter IV

Education in Catalonia — The Press — The Gaye Science — Departure for Valencia — The Coast — Spanish Travelers and Politics — The Tartana — Valencia — The Vega — The Market-place — Costume and Cleanliness of the People — Table-luxuries of Europe and the Western Continent — M. Dumas — Public Buildings — The Ck' and the Church-bells 45

Chapter V

- Pictures — The Penitentiary — The Women of Valencia — Alicante — Railway Iron — The Plaza — Mules — The Post-boy — Manners— Night-view JO CONTENTS.

Chapter VI

Cartagena — The Arsenal and Harbor — Gipsies — Appearance and Habits of the People — Almeria — Ballad of Count Arnaldos — Spanish Boatmen — Heat of the Weather — Cathedral — Dismantled Convent — Beggars — Morals of Almeria — The Bride and the Captain of Carbineers — The Mountains of Granada — Sunset — Mediterranean Captains 67

Chapter VII

Malaga — Its Appearance from the Water — The Citadels — The Alameda — Defacing Public Monuments — Westminster Abbey — Greenough's Washington — The Cathedral of Rouen and the Swiss — Coaches — Streets — Moonlight Walks and Views — the Torres 79

Chapter VIII

Commerce of Malaga — Manufactures — Heredia's Works — Iron Foundry — Spanish Iron and Coal — Clay Figures — The Fonda de la Alameda — American and European Hotels — Travelers to Granada — Fellow-lodgers — The. Irish Parson — English and Continental Manners — Spanish Cookery — Rides about the Hills — The Retiro — Villa of the Prussian Consul — Calesas and Bombes — Torre Molino 86

Chapter IX

The Cathedral — Ford and Widdrington — Society in Malaga — The Malagueiias — Slanders of Tourists — Female Travelers — Spanish Hospitality — Letters of Introduction — Dinners — Courtship and Marriage — Medical Men — Funeral Ceremonies and Customs of Mourning 104

Chapter X

Departure for Cadiz — A Summer Sea — Rock and Straits of Gibraltar by Moonlight — Cadiz — The Casino— English Papers and the Mexican War — Women — Public Walks — Buildings — Flower-market — Fondness for Flowers — Spanish rural Tastes — Fortifications — Ocean-view and Sunset 121

Chapter XI

Journey to Xerez — Port St. Mary's — The Calesa — Don Fran- CONTENTS. IX cisco and his Chickens — Sherry Wines and Goat-skins The Cartuja — Xerez — The Boarding-house — Dona Maria de Leon — Her Table and Company 133

Chapter XII

Xerez — Population — The Bodegas — Wines — Manzanilla — The Preparation of Wines — American and English Markets — Prices — Vineyards — Manners of the People — Churches — The Storks of San Miguel — May-day — Return to Cadiz — Louis Philippe's Birth-day 143

Chapter XIII

Fair at Puerto Real — The Star-spangled Banner — The Balon — Theatrical Performances — Spanish Dancing-girls 153

Chapter XIV

Decay of Cadiz — Manufactures and Trade — Free-trade Newspaper — Agriculture — Grain and Flour — Journey to Seville— The Guadalquivir — Herdsmen and their Mares — Approach to Seville — Gardens and Groves — Fonda de la Reyna — Don Jos6 and the Widow — The Maiden's Balcony 160

Chapter XV

Seville — Domestic Architecture — Moorish Relics — House of Pilate — The Alcazar and its Gardens — English Critics and Whitewash — Sir John Downie — Holyrood and Durham Cathedral — The Spanish Kings — Peter the Cruel 166

Chapter XVI

Improvements at Seville — Literature and the Press — The Bible — Mr. Borrow and the Causes of his Failure — Newspapers — American News — General Taylor in Seville — Scarcity of Bread — Bread Riots — The Cigar-girls — Andalusian Character illustrated — Dancing — The Ole — The Bell-ringer's Daughter. 176

Chapter XVII

Italica — The Coach — Triana — San Isidoro del Campo — Guzman el Bueno — Heman Cortes — The Halls of the Montezumas — Peasants — The Ruins — The Amphitheater — The Wine-drinkers and our Adventure on the Road 190 A* CONTENTS. X 215 236

Chapter XVIII

Marshal Soult, and Murillo's Works — Picking and Stealing — Murillo's Style and Genius— The Ideal and the Natural — Paintings of the Deity — St. Francis and the Crucifix 196

Chapter XIX

Notices of Murillo's principal Works — The Museum — Seville School — Zurbaran — Murillo's Pictures for the Capuchin Convent—Story of his Residence there — The Virgin of the Napkin, &c. — Pictures at La Caridad — The San Juan de Dios — Pictures at the Cathedral — The Guardian Angel 205

Chapter XX

Ferdinand Columbus — His Tomb — And Works — The Columbian Library — Relics of Ferdinand — Books belonging to Christopher Columbus — His Book of Prophecies — The Sword of Garci Perez — The Lonja — Seville Merchants of old — The Archives of the Indies — Navarrete

Chapter XXI

The Tobacco-factory — Pope Urban's Bull against Tobacco — Pasquin's Reply — Public Walks — Delicias — Spanish Horsemen — Farriers — Necessity of Public Walks in the United States 225

Chapter XXII

Propensity of Travelers to climb high Places — The Giralda — The Bell-ringer, his Daughter, and the Hawks — The Andaluz and the English — The Cathedral — Its Magnificence and Beauty — The Royal Chapel — The Virjen de la Antigua — High Mass and Music — The Galleries — The Battle-pieces and the Hawks

Chapter XXIII

Journey to Cordova — Carmona — The Road and Travelers — Primitive Agriculture — Ecija — The Alforjas — Dawn upon Cordova — The Mosque — Moorish Relics — St. Raphael, and what he swore — The Christian Captive and his Cross — Procession and Silver Ornaments — Gen. Dupont — Appearance and Decay of Cordova — Return to Seville — The Colonies and Olavide — The Infanta and the Poet — Spanish Diligences CONTENTS. XI 314

Chapter XXIV

AnJalusian Jockeys — Start for Ronda Fair — Our Horses, Guide and Equipments — Andalusian Costume — Appearance of the Country — Utrera — Bull-fighters — The Race and the Carhonero — Coronil — The Venta and the Fleas — Puerto Serrano and the Mountains — Our Cavalcade — Mountain Crosses — The Picador and his Arab — Almodonares — Zahara — Venta Nueva — Morning Ride to Ronda — The Nightingales 266

Chapter XXV

Ronda — The Tajo and Valley — Moorish Relics — The Fair Cordovese Horses 284

Chapter XXVI

The Bull-Fights — The Amphitheater, Spectators, Order of Ceremonial and Manner of the Fights — Moral of Bull-fighting — Fondness of Strangers for it 290

Chapter XXVII

Journey to Malaga — Carratraca — The Sulphur Springs — The Flowers and Grain — Valencia*! Reapers — Reflections on Andalusian Agriculture — Its Defects and their Historical Causes — Rural Labor as a Source of Patriotism and Prosperity — Journey to Granada — Loja — Arrival at Granada — Feast of Corpus Christi — The Swiss Pastry-cook — Illness — The Barber-surgeon and the Doctor — Medicine and Dietetics — My Lodging — The Noises of Granada — Rita and the Russian Count — Kindness of the People — The Professor and la Presse 303

Chapter XXVIII

The Xenil and the Darro — The Alameda — The Alhambra Gardens — The Cuarto Real — Monastic Taste — Gonsalvo de Cordova and the Cartuja — Precious Marbles — Mariana de Pineda — San Jeronimo and the Tomb of the Great Captain

Chapter XXIX

The Cathedral of Granada — The Royal Chapel — Pulgar and the Ave Maria — The Royal Tombs — Ferdinand and Isabella — Antique Bas-reliefs — The Sacristy — Ferdinand's Crown and Scepter — Surrender of Granada — Irving and Prescott — The Historical Bas-relief — Visit to the Hermitage of San Sebastian — The CONTENTS. Procession of Corpus Christi — The Lawsuit for Precedence — Spanish Soldiery — Society and Cultivation in Granada 322

Chapter XXX

Mr. Irving and the Alhambra — Mateo Ximenez — The Gate and Square of Vivarrambla — Casa del Carbon — The Alhambra — The Towers of Justice and la Vela — Exterior and Interior of the Moorish Palace — Lodgings within the Alhambra Jurisdiction — The Generalise — Boabdil and his Portrait — Boabdil's Queen and the Abencerrage — View from the Silla del Moro — Ole Bull — Moorish Antiquities — Their Condition and the Reasons — Parallel cases in England and Scotland — Shilling Exhibitions — John Knox and the Altar-piece of Queen Mary 334

Chapter XXXI

Return to Malaga — A Midnight Adventure, showing the Value of a wise Wife — Loxa — Colmenar — Descent to the Coast — Voyage to Gibraltar — Population of Gibraltar — Its Situation — The Alameda and Scare-crow Statuary — Fortifications — English and Spanish Soldiers — British Officers and the Siege of Vera Cruz — Contraband Trade — Shamelessness of it — Its Decrease — Lord Brougham and the Canada Frontier — Views about Gibraltar — Military Funeral — Peninsular Steamer — Cadiz — Lisbon — Oporto — General Concha and the Spanish Intervention — Vigo — Spanish Beef — The Gallego and his Province 347

Chapter XXXII

Conclusion — French, English, and American Views of Spain Spirit of Travelers— Spanish Character, Social, Political, and Religious— Origin, Condition, and Remedy of their Political System — A Moral for Ourselves 362

Appendix

. I. Epitaph and Works of Ferdinand Columbus 37_l rT n\ :.. — 1 _-. _i 1 , /-. m ~ ... ° ' * II. Christopher Columbus' Copy of Petrus Abacus, and his Jel rusalem or Book of Prophecies 377 III. The Bull " Cum Ecclesiæ," against Tobacco 383 IV. Inscription on the Wall of St. Sebastian's Hermitage, relating to the Surrender of Granada

Chapter I

Departure from Marseilles — La Ciotat — Fellow-travelers — English Tourists — Arrival at Barcelona, and Tribulations at the Custom-house — The Rambla and the People on Promenade — Theophile Gautier — Marseilles and Barcelona contrasted — Public Buildings — The Cathedral — Christopher Columbus. We had a fellow-passenger across the Atlantic, to whose untiring cheerfulness and amiability we were indebted for the most of our few pleasant moments, during a tedious and stormy voyage. Being a Frenchman, he was too true to his national character, not to find especial refreshment in an occasional scrap of philosophy, and used frequently to point his exhortations with the salutary moral from Candide the Optimist, that " every thing happens for the best, in this best of worlds." A sea-sick man, in the nature of things, is eminently unphilosophical.

Some Boethius occasionally writes a volume of " Consolations," in a prison, but no man was ever known to do such a thing in a state-room. I con fess, therefore, that, at the time, I had a higher appreciation of our companion's kindness than his doctrine. But when, after the tribulation that usually attends an invalid's experience of the mists and blasts of beautiful France, and the snow and sleet of sunny Italy, I found myself at last on board the good steamer " El Barcino," in the harbor of Mar seilles, and bound direct for Spain, I began to think better of Candide, and to believe that even in this sorry world, the most unlucky sometimes realize their wildest hopes. From my childhood, Spain had been a fairy land to me. I remember when I would not have bartered a chance of visiting its shores, for the best rub at Aladdin's lamp.

Circumstances afterward had thrown me into association with Spaniards, more frequently than is usual with our countrymen, and some of my most cherished friendships had been formed among them. Thus made familiar with their language, and interested deeply in their national peculiarities and character, I had cultivated their literature in an humble way, as far as one might venture while following a profes sion which gives little of practical sympathy or toleration to any learning but its own. Yet it had never occurred to me that I should tread, except in dreams, the bright land which I had so often seen in them ; and now that but a single day's journey lay between my wishes and their consummation, it will not be wondered that I should have hailed, as almost a blessing, the ill-health which had sent me on my journey.

It was the first day of April, 1847, and scarce six o'clock in the morning, when the first revolution of the steamer's wheels threw custom-house boats and bores behind us. The vociferations, grimaces, and clumsy and absurd manœuvres which attend your exit from a French port, ren der it more entertaining than any other nautical thing, ex cept, perhaps, your entrance into the same. I had been so busy in amusing myself with these, and in realizing the fact of having my first cup of orthodox chocolate in hand, that I had hardly taken any cognizance of my com panions. They were few, and a glance around the little quarter-deck soon showed me that they were admirably assorted for the pleasure which grows out of contrasts. Two of them were my own countrymen, one of whom had spent his life in Boston, and the other in China.

There was an Englishman, of course, for of Englishmen traveling nature abhors a vacuum, and you stumble on them every where, in Europe, Asia, and Africa. You may know them wher ever you see them, not merely by their peculiarities of costume, which are unequivocal, but by their loneliness in crowds, and their silence, especially when spoken to. "Who are those persons ?" said a foreigner once to me, as we sailed along the Italian coast. " They are Americans," I answered. " Pardon my curiosity," was the reply, " my compan ions insisted that they were English, and I knew that could not be, for they talked to each other at table, and seemed to be enjoying themselves !" The representative of Anglo-Saxondom, upon this occasion, was an exception to the national rule, and was no friend to restraints upon the liberty of speech.

Though he talked French and Spanish with the cackle which is pecu liar to some of his countrymen, when they meddle with strange tongues, he persisted in cackling at all hazards. He had Murray's Hand-Book of Spain under one arm, and being a lieutenant of her majesty's navy, carried a spy-glass under the other. He had, no doubt, read in his book of the great veneration and respect in which Englishmen and their opinions are held in Spain ; and had obviously made up his mind to spy out the nakedness and the fullness of land and water, and let nothing go unseen for lack of being looked after. By way of counterpoise to the lieutenant was a ready, flu ent Frenchman, whose ideas were evidently of the "perfi.de Albion" school ; for he was in a national discussion with John Bull, before we were well out of sight of the Chateau d'Yf.

He was of the sort of mau that you meet among scarce any but the French, and so frequently among them ; a cross of the savant and the commis voyageur, with an equal turn for trade and metaphysics, and ready to give you, at a moment's warning, a sample of the latest Lyons silks, or a disquisition on man, individual and social. An Italian marquis, from Cremona, in a scarlet cravat and foul linen, who was making a pilgrimage to the opening of the new opera house at Barcelona, and a sturdy Catalan merchant, my room-mate, completed the list of our company in the principal cabin. I had anticipated great amusement from witnessing the process of shaking these uncongenial parts into a pleasant whole, but, alas ! what is there on earth so fleeting as the happiness of a landsman on the water ? The wind, which, when we sallied from the port, scarce bent the canvas of the light vessels which were every where about us, now drove them madly through the foam ; and I began to feel, that though Spain lay near before me, the Gulf of Lyons was between.

By an absurd regulation of the navigation laws of the Peninsula, no Spanish vessel, clearing from a port so near the Spanish territory as Marseilles, is allowed the full privileges of a Spanish bottom. Instead, therefore, of turning his bow toward Barcelona, our captain was com pelled to make an excursion of some hours in an opposite direction, to La Ciotat, a little town on the French coast, the scene of the " Commander of Malta," one of the most popular and sulphurous of Alexandre Dumas' romances. This gave us the advantage of a heavy and distressing cross-sea, to which, I suppose, I owe the fact, that my recollections of la Ciotat are reduced to sundry rotary notions of white waves and white houses, and riding nauseously at anchor. Dinner, on the Mediterranean steamers, is, strictly, what the ecclesiastical calendars denominate " a movable feast," varying from two to six o'clock, according to the increasing or decreasing appetites ofthe passengers, and generally coming on, as the most of them are going off".

I only remember it, upon the day in question, as finding me in a horizontal posi tion in my berth, listening to the excited voices of the Frenchman and the lieutenant, as they discussed the respective advantages to Spain, of British smuggling, on the one side, and the Bourbons and the family compact, on the other. Next day the wind was heavy and ahead, and nothing kept us of good cheer, but the tidings which some of the more fortunate would occasionally bring down to us of mountain and promontory, as we ran along the coast of Catalonia. It was near nine, of a cloudy, gusty night, when we dropped anchor, at last, in the harbor of Barcelona, our voyage having been longer than usual, by about one-third. The lateness of our arrival of course prevented us from going on shore, so that we lost an opportunity of seeing the " entierro de Cristo" a grand funeral procession by torch light, which still forms a part, as we learned, of the Good- Friday ceremonial in Barcelona, though it has been abolish ed in almost all the rest of Spain.

Wretched as we were, however, we crept from our state-rooms to the deck, to see what was to be seen : but the ship was out in the throat of the harbor, and still rode heavily, so that the glimpse we caught of the far-off lights of the city was but little worth the penalty we paid for it. The next morning I rose as they were warping the steam er into port. The city lay beautifully in the center of its amphitheater of hills. Upon the left, as we faced it, towered up Montjuich, with its lofty and impregnable fortress, so famous, unhappily, in civil broil. To the right and near us, was the fine mole, behind which was the suburb of Barceloneta, with its painted dwellings and its crowd of factories and busy industry. In the inner harbor, just in front of us, lay quite a fleet of vessels, from many nations, all with their colors at half-mast, to betoken the solemnity of the religious festival.

The buildings of the city-proper looked white and imposing in the distance, and every thing ashore was inviting enough to make us more and more impatient of the health-officer's delay. At last, that functionary came : took our papers, as if we had been direct from Constantinople, with the plague sealed up in a dispatch for him : but finding, officially, as he knew, in fact, before, that we were just from La Ciotat, and had with us no contagion, he finally gave us leave to land and be persecuted at the Custom-house. Leav ing our luggage to be trundled up in solido after us, we gave ourselves into the hands of the boatmen, who landed us safely, charged us mercifully, and bade us "go with God."' After a short walk we reached a gate where we were told to halt and give our names to an officer. We dictated and he wrote, but I trust he may not be held to strict account for the perverted and unchristian style in which he handed us down to posterity and the police.

Many a more innocent looking word than he made of my name, have I seen (in Borrow's " Zincali," for instance) traced all the way back to the Sanscrit. After being thus translated into Catalan we were called up, by our new titles, to be searched. This process was not very easy to bear patiently, for the custom-house officers are the principal agents through whom France fraternizes with Catalonia, in the smuggling-line, and we felt that they might, with a good conscience, have said nothing about our gnats, after having swallowed so many camels of their own. Nevertheless, we all managed to keep temper, except the Italian, who, as he had never gone twenty miles, in his own country, without having to bribe a custom-house squad, felt it his duty to be especially indignant at the same thing, when away from home.

He had designed (he said) to give the rascals a " petseta" (as he would persist in calling the peseta, or twenty-cent-piece) but he would not encourage such villainy ! The officials shrugged their shoulders, thought that something must be wrong, felt his pockets over again, and after having politely requested him to pull out the contents, begged him to "pasar adelante," or, in other words, get out of the way, with his nonsense. He was prudent enough to obey, but not without some very didactic observations upon " questi Spagnuoli," in general, and inspectors of the customs, especially. We then marched to the palace-square, upon which the " Cafe de las siete puertas, "opened one of its seven portals to wel come us to breakfast. The Custom-house was opposite, and in due season -we became possessed of our carpet-bags, and proceeded to the " Fonda del Oriente," which had been recommended to us as the best hotel in the city.

The Fonda is a fine-looking house, fronting on the Ram bla, the principal public walk, and would, no doubt, be very comfortable among the orientals, with whom its name asserts consanguinity ; but as the cold spring wind still whistled from the hills, it gave us small promise of comfort, with its tiled floors uncarpeted, its unchimneyed walls, and its balconies with long, wide windows, so admirable to look out from, and so convenient for the breeze to enter. I pulled aside the crimson curtains which shut up my bed in an alcove, and there came from it an atmosphere so damp and chill, that I did not wonder at the hoarseness of the artists in the adjoining chamber, who were rehearsing what would have been a trio, had not the influenza added another part. It being very obvious that comfort and amusement were only to be found out of doors, we soon had a rendezvous in the court.

The Fonda was a famous gathering-place of diligences, and there was one which had just arrived. We had made large calculations upon the grotesqueness of these vehicles, for we had all read the strange stories which travelers tell of them ; but, unhappily, the one before us was a capital carriage, of the latest style and best construction, and the conductor and postillion looked and swore very much after the manner of the best specimens of their class in France and Italy. Only the mules excited our wonder. There were eight of them — tall, powerful animals, and each was shorn to the skin, from hough to shoulder-point, with little tufts upon the extremities of ears and tail. They might readily have passed for gigantic rats, of an antedilu vian species with a hard name, or a new variety of Dr. Obed Batteus's "Vespertilio horribilis Americanus."

The Rambla, a wide and pleasant promenade, runs from the outer edge of the city, to the water. The trees along its sides had not taken the coloring of spring, and the weather was raw and gusty, but it was a half-holiday, and gentle and simple were taking their noon-day walk. The wealthier classes wore plain colors universally : the men enveloped in their cloaks, the women in rich, black mantillas, the lace of which just flung a shadow on their faces. The poorer people, as in all countries, furnished the picturesque. Full of leisure and independence, for the moment, they went sauntering up and down ; the women with gay shawls drawn high around their heads, and their long silver or gold ear-rings, with huge pendants of topaz glancing in the sun ; the men in long caps of red or purple, and striped and tasseled mantles, making lively contrast with the rich and various uniforms of the soldiers who were on the stroll.

Now and then among the crowd you might discover the peaked hat so general in the south, bedecked with velvet trimmings, and tufts of black wool upon the brim and crown. Accompanying it, there would be a short fantastic jacket, with large bell buttons dangling, while the nether man was gorgeous in breeches of bright blue, with black leggings, and the everlasting al pargata, or hempen sandal. " Who are those troops ?" I inquired of an old man, as a squad passed us, half-peasant, half-soldier in costume, their long, blue coats with red facings fluttering loose behind them. " They are the mozos de la escuadra," he replied. "What is their branch of service?" " To keep the province clear of thieves." "Are there, then, thieves in Catalonia?" " O ! si sehor ! los Jiay, creo, en todas partes, como vmd. sabrd" ("Oh yes, sir, there are some every where, I think, as your worship may know,") said the old rascal, with a knowing leer.

Theophile Gautier, in his pleasant " Voyage en Espagne," has sufficient gravity to say that Barcelona has nothing of the Spanish type about it, but the Catalonian caps and pantaloons, barring which, he thinks it might readily be taken for a French city, nay, even for Marseilles, which, to his notion, it strikingly resembles. Now it may be true, as Dumas says, that Theophile professes to know Spain better than the Spaniards themselves ; a peculiarity, by-the-by, among travelers, which the Spaniards seem to have had the luck of; but I must be pardoned upon this point, for knowing Marseilles better than he, having been there twice, for my sins, and too recently to be under any illusions on the subject. Dust from my feet I had not shaken off against that dirty city, because dust there was none, when I was there, and the mud, which was its substitute, was too tenacious to be easily disposed of.